As a v11 boulder there is routes I can’t do without specific shoes. Good luck comp climbing without dragos or climbing hard sport routes without solotions
While I can't climb near V11, I can imagine that's the case. I mean, I've seen a ton of videos of elite climbers with two different climbing shoes on their feet for a route.
sounds like a beta issue if you can only climb something in certain shoes, not saying certain shoes wont perform better or worse than others on specific climbs but if its literally a single shoe you can do it in then it sounds like you are lacking in some aspect for that grade
Nice video. Testarossas are meant for steep sport climbing, so I wouldn't expect them to perform super well on weird toehooks cos they don't have that much rubber on the top of the foot. I just got a pair of scarpa boostics and the only style that they work well in is steep climbing on small footholds. On any other terrain I wouldn't wear them cos they are really uncomfortable, and often times comfort allows one to push harder when small footholds are not the limiting factor.
Basic shoes can take you really far. I've climbed as hard as v9 in mad Rock remoras, but there's best certain climbs where a specific shoe design just comes in clutch. Heel toe cams, toe hooks etcetera
I totally agree. I think the boulders I climbed were really well suited for the momentum. If they were a few notches more difficult, I bet the Testarosas would have clearly won, but V5 is my limit!
@@Natemitka ah ok fair enough. I think on really technical slabs there can be a difference at lower grades too. Tbh I don’t know when the holds are small enough or bad enough to really notice since it’s always tempting to place that boundary at ones current strength level. And pre-emptively I will say I know a pro climber would flash my project in any shoe but that isn’t a counter example to shoes being important
What size do you wear for Testarossa? I just bought it online and waiting for shipment. Hope the shoes will fit on my feet and I don't get wrong for size
The cost difference between a proprietary sole in the US and vibram sole from the EU is rather significant even for highly specialized shoes. Further, the highly specialized shoes are highly specialized, and for climbing this comes to foot position and movement around a crux, and making this more consistent. Hard to test in an accessible way, but good effort.
I’ve used testarossa for 20 years and only use them on overhanging sports. I don’t even use them to boulder. I don’t find them beneficial unless I’m mostly applying the weight to my toes rather than my entire body weight applying that weight to my toes. They’re not designed even for vertical ascent, just aggressive overhanging steepness. I’ve had 3 pairs in 20 years and never paid over £90/$115.
That’s my bad! I saw it was V1.5 on Mountain Project. I really wanted to show that route in the video, because it really demonstrated the difference in shoes between the BDs and the La Sportivas!
That’s a great point. Honestly, I think the point made in the video is the same indoors. But I would bet you notice the rubber quality a lot more in indoor climbing!
IMO the shoes don't make much of a difference inside. I'd stick to basic shoes if I was climbing exclusively indoors, I climb a lot outside and even then I mainly use the momentums which are intro level shoes (tbf I do own the higher ends tho! I just refrain from using them mostly) In this video he shows himself using feet that are like mm small, its my experience that foot chips in the gym are usually at least twice as big as some of the feet we saw here. Im of the belief that we mostly don't need that kind of precision in the gym, and if we can't do something there is more than likely something technical or physical we can improve before we look at the shoes. There are definitely routes indoors that might benefit from a good heel on a shoe, a steep boulder or sport route. But I would say you can get that done in a basic shoe as well, its just that the expensive ones will offer more support wherever the strength of their design is (solutions edging and heels, tc pros smears and jams). every shoe has something, but I like basic shoes for myself- and I think theyre good for people who just climb in gyms or those just starting- cause they can do a little bit of everything normally. You can get pretty far in some basic shoes especially in the gym, I've sent some gym "v8"s and 7s in my momentums. Tldr: unless you really want to, you dont have to break the bank for your indoor rock climbing shoes. The most affordable shoes will be just as well, just be sure to grt them from brands that make climbing gear like BD or sportiva and you should be fine with even the cheapest model!
I climb mainly in the BD momentums; I have solutions and TCs for when I'm really dialing in. I've redpointed 5.12 and bouldering V6 outside, so I'm by no means a crusher and lean more average Joe. That said, I think in general BD Momentums are super good enough- and like he said, they're also very comfortable. Of course, the top end shoes have their strengths, but I haven't really found that there are problems I can't do because I'm wearing one or the other. He touches on this idea that sometimes the higher end shoe offers more support on an edge, and he has more time to hang out and think, which is obviously helpful when it comes to sending. On the other hand, with better footwork you can get around the need for support. Thats why I use rentals or BD momentums/other beaters in the gym or for the bulk of my climbing outside before I prepare for a send go. I think its good practice for better footwork- and it saves the rubber on my pricier shoes for when I feel I really need that little difference. I think new climbers shouldnt feel compelled to buy the more expensive shoe to up their game, its only going to provide marginal gains (which definitely can be the difference, but I think even at the level I'm at there's usually something else that can be improved like fitness or beta before we blame the shoes) and it may cover gaps in your footwork (how you distributing pressure while smearing or your precision for edging ect) In other sports, like swimming, there is this idea that you dont actually wear your racing suit until race day. You wear practice gear, in swim they even have a drag suit to make things worse/harder- which i think is in the same vein of what I'm saying here: Tl;dr: unless you're towards the higher end of climbing, you dont need to spring for really expensive shoes. Cheaper shoes can be just as well and comfier (I'll definitely vouch for momentums!) - Especially if you almost exclusively climb in doors, but even outdoors theyre not crucial. But for sure, they will definitely help- and I have certainly reached for them when I feel I need them! Im ngl sometimed the subtle physical (and perhaps mental) support can make all the difference for a send, or at least an easier one. Imo, one should have the best of both worlds. A cheap comfy beater shoe to put miles on, and a performance shoe for when we wanna let our hair down!
Was expecting full pay to win results but this was super solid advice. Nice job man!
Thank you Matt 🙏
As a v11 boulder there is routes I can’t do without specific shoes. Good luck comp climbing without dragos or climbing hard sport routes without solotions
While I can't climb near V11, I can imagine that's the case. I mean, I've seen a ton of videos of elite climbers with two different climbing shoes on their feet for a route.
sounds like a beta issue if you can only climb something in certain shoes, not saying certain shoes wont perform better or worse than others on specific climbs but if its literally a single shoe you can do it in then it sounds like you are lacking in some aspect for that grade
Nice video. Testarossas are meant for steep sport climbing, so I wouldn't expect them to perform super well on weird toehooks cos they don't have that much rubber on the top of the foot. I just got a pair of scarpa boostics and the only style that they work well in is steep climbing on small footholds. On any other terrain I wouldn't wear them cos they are really uncomfortable, and often times comfort allows one to push harder when small footholds are not the limiting factor.
Yeah, I probably should have picked a shoe with more toe rubber on that V3!
Basic shoes can take you really far. I've climbed as hard as v9 in mad Rock remoras, but there's best certain climbs where a specific shoe design just comes in clutch. Heel toe cams, toe hooks etcetera
Ok but the remoras are so good lol. I still love mine even tho they got a hole in em
I’m not sure only going up to v5 will test this well without looking for specific techy boulders.
I totally agree. I think the boulders I climbed were really well suited for the momentum. If they were a few notches more difficult, I bet the Testarosas would have clearly won, but V5 is my limit!
@@Natemitka ah ok fair enough. I think on really technical slabs there can be a difference at lower grades too. Tbh I don’t know when the holds are small enough or bad enough to really notice since it’s always tempting to place that boundary at ones current strength level. And pre-emptively I will say I know a pro climber would flash my project in any shoe but that isn’t a counter example to shoes being important
Love to see a similar video with stiff rubber vs soft!
Thats a great idea!
Love the review of both options. Honestly so helpful and informative. Really like your videos that cater to everyday users on a budget.
Thanks Nikki!!!!
What size do you wear for Testarossa? I just bought it online and waiting for shipment. Hope the shoes will fit on my feet and I don't get wrong for size
I have the Testarossa in 41.5. Which is odd they felt so tight because I have the Futura as well in 41.5 and those are tight but fit correctly.
@@Natemitka What size your street shoe anyway?
@@ghafaraharashta4581 10.5 in America!
@@Natemitka so you do 3 sizes down.
Nice review btw, keep it going!
@@ghafaraharashta4581 Thanks man!
Also, way better high end shoes than the testies.
I don’t think that’s relevant for indoor climbing as holds are for most part better, but good climbing shoes definitely make a huge different outdoor
Totally, I recently did a review of the best beginner climbing shoes and the discrepancy with indoor and outdoor performance was huge.
testarossas don't cost that much. at least not in europe...
They cost that much in the U.S. when they came out, and it looks like on the La Sportiva US website its still $219!
@@Natemitka sorry for you haha, that sucks
The cost difference between a proprietary sole in the US and vibram sole from the EU is rather significant even for highly specialized shoes. Further, the highly specialized shoes are highly specialized, and for climbing this comes to foot position and movement around a crux, and making this more consistent. Hard to test in an accessible way, but good effort.
Thank you! And agree, the rubber here makes a huge difference
Next do barefoot vs flip flops
Barefoot is definitely rising in popularity. Maybe there's a video there...
i think for you foot placement you can train to dont reajust your foot to mutch
Definitely need to work on that!
I got some testarossa's about a month ago but they are just uncomfortable, is anyone else experiencing this?
how is your testarosa now? how does it feel? Mine is just arrived today and it feels very snug, uncomfortable
@@ghafaraharashta4581 i returned it and got skwama
I’ve used testarossa for 20 years and only use them on overhanging sports. I don’t even use them to boulder. I don’t find them beneficial unless I’m mostly applying the weight to my toes rather than my entire body weight applying that weight to my toes. They’re not designed even for vertical ascent, just aggressive overhanging steepness. I’ve had 3 pairs in 20 years and never paid over £90/$115.
Love to see it!! Solid competition.
Thanks Kelsey!!!!!!!
Don’t need real shoes until you get past v6, not a realistic comparison if your only bonking around on moderates.
3:15 Deal Jams is V1 not V2
That’s my bad! I saw it was V1.5 on Mountain Project. I really wanted to show that route in the video, because it really demonstrated the difference in shoes between the BDs and the La Sportivas!
What about indoor rock wall climbing
That’s a great point. Honestly, I think the point made in the video is the same indoors. But I would bet you notice the rubber quality a lot more in indoor climbing!
IMO the shoes don't make much of a difference inside. I'd stick to basic shoes if I was climbing exclusively indoors, I climb a lot outside and even then I mainly use the momentums which are intro level shoes (tbf I do own the higher ends tho! I just refrain from using them mostly)
In this video he shows himself using feet that are like mm small, its my experience that foot chips in the gym are usually at least twice as big as some of the feet we saw here.
Im of the belief that we mostly don't need that kind of precision in the gym, and if we can't do something there is more than likely something technical or physical we can improve before we look at the shoes.
There are definitely routes indoors that might benefit from a good heel on a shoe, a steep boulder or sport route. But I would say you can get that done in a basic shoe as well, its just that the expensive ones will offer more support wherever the strength of their design is (solutions edging and heels, tc pros smears and jams). every shoe has something, but I like basic shoes for myself- and I think theyre good for people who just climb in gyms or those just starting- cause they can do a little bit of everything normally. You can get pretty far in some basic shoes especially in the gym, I've sent some gym "v8"s and 7s in my momentums.
Tldr: unless you really want to, you dont have to break the bank for your indoor rock climbing shoes. The most affordable shoes will be just as well, just be sure to grt them from brands that make climbing gear like BD or sportiva and you should be fine with even the cheapest model!
@@armandoestrada-rodriguez7418 thanks ! Thoughtful reply
Yes, it's about skills and strength, not equipment.
I climb mainly in the BD momentums; I have solutions and TCs for when I'm really dialing in.
I've redpointed 5.12 and bouldering V6 outside, so I'm by no means a crusher and lean more average Joe.
That said, I think in general BD Momentums are super good enough- and like he said, they're also very comfortable. Of course, the top end shoes have their strengths, but I haven't really found that there are problems I can't do because I'm wearing one or the other.
He touches on this idea that sometimes the higher end shoe offers more support on an edge, and he has more time to hang out and think, which is obviously helpful when it comes to sending. On the other hand, with better footwork you can get around the need for support.
Thats why I use rentals or BD momentums/other beaters in the gym or for the bulk of my climbing outside before I prepare for a send go. I think its good practice for better footwork- and it saves the rubber on my pricier shoes for when I feel I really need that little difference.
I think new climbers shouldnt feel compelled to buy the more expensive shoe to up their game, its only going to provide marginal gains (which definitely can be the difference, but I think even at the level I'm at there's usually something else that can be improved like fitness or beta before we blame the shoes) and it may cover gaps in your footwork (how you distributing pressure while smearing or your precision for edging ect)
In other sports, like swimming, there is this idea that you dont actually wear your racing suit until race day. You wear practice gear, in swim they even have a drag suit to make things worse/harder- which i think is in the same vein of what I'm saying here:
Tl;dr: unless you're towards the higher end of climbing, you dont need to spring for really expensive shoes. Cheaper shoes can be just as well and comfier (I'll definitely vouch for momentums!) - Especially if you almost exclusively climb in doors, but even outdoors theyre not crucial.
But for sure, they will definitely help- and I have certainly reached for them when I feel I need them! Im ngl sometimed the subtle physical (and perhaps mental) support can make all the difference for a send, or at least an easier one.
Imo, one should have the best of both worlds. A cheap comfy beater shoe to put miles on, and a performance shoe for when we wanna let our hair down!