Thanks for this video! My water line (from the ground up into my mobile) froze and cracked. Every video I came across had some guy joining two pieces of loose PVC pipe. Well yea.. This is what I was looking for, repairing a broken pipe that is fixed in place.
IMPORTANT NOTE! When purchasing the slip fix be sure to check that the O Ring is inside (where it turns to tighten). Loosen the plastic completely and you will see the O Ring. I purchased one and didn't think or know to look. After installing it, it leaked! I had to cut it out, realized the problem (no O Ring), and replaced it. The new part (with the O Ring) worked perfectly as described.
Thanks for the comment, I know what the slip fitting feels like with an O-ring, so I know I would catch that, but others do not know the feel to expect. It likely could be corrected even after solvent joining the ends however... stretch the o ring on to the fitting body...
Thanks so much for this video! I've never done anything with PVC pipe and the freeze last night bust one of our spigot's outside. I was able to fix it myself and you saved me a ton of $. Thanks! :o)
Thanks for the video. I was in a hurry yesterday when I installed one of these on the end of a 90° elbow from a valve. After the installation I noticed the slip was sucking in when turning on a sprinkler and pushing out when turning off the sprinkler. I looked up this video to see if maybe I should have applied glue in the slip joint.
I want to add in a clean-out in a PVC pipe and face the same issue of a fixed line with limited working space. What type of fittings would you suggest? Two no hub fittings and a cleanout? I don't want this to become another point of potential blockage either.
The slip fix fittings are listed and professional. If one is just repairing a sprinkler line in a lawn system OK, but hose inner diameter for 1" PVC pipe is hard to find a hose section to cut up....clamps can blow out w/o circular groves to cause grip. Slip fittings are ANSI, UPC, NSF ETC. I use them when the pipe is between a rock n a hard place...
This and your 4 x 90 video are excellent, very instructional. Would you feel comfortable about using a slip fitting underground? My 1 inch main service line has a slow leak that I'm going about to tear in to. Given the choice, would you go with the slip fitting (as reliable?) or the elbows (loss in pressure?). Consider the repair is in Tennessee, potential annual temp range of 25-105 degrees. Thanks a lot!
i just installed a 3" slip fix twice and both leaked at the slip area not my glued areas, Iv'e installed a lot of 3/4 and 1" ones with out a problem, both of the 3" ones had just a small slow drip, the slip fix is within 10" of a 45 degree elbow so i'm thinking there must be a little side pressure causing the leak ?
A novice question: all references are to sprinkler systems. I recently took a wet bar out of our house. The PVC pipe drain broke off the wall and in a manner that can't be capped or plugged. Can this method be used for a 1 1/4" diameter PVC pipe in an exterior wall? I'm not sure that the pipe leads to upwards OR down but it has been uncapped for several days with no "activity".
This "slip fix" does not have a rubber "o-ring" at the large end as this slip-fix does not have the "union" pre-built" in. There are only 2 small o-rings on the sliding tube, that need to be extended fully in order to properly seal. There are other slip fixes that have a built-in union.
The slip joint has is recommending has a rubber gasket, which over time and depending on the water hardness will deteriorate and fail. The pvc joint manufactures used to make a non-stop slip straight connector which was ideal for short connections. I don't understand why it's difficult to purchase....Of course, they want to sell you the more expensive solution.
What is your point? my comments about a price could be for a 1/2" or a 2" and it could include the mark up a licensed Plumbing contractor charges including coupling and tax.? is that your issue? or that some times no room exists for a slip fix and 4, 90 deg. ells is used? I have owned a wholesale and retail pipe and irrigation supply house before and actually know what I am talking about. I think you are being critical for some reason, but not sure what your issue is.
Uh oh. I didn't know how important it is to camphor the pipes. It makes sense though. I usually just make sure that I cut the pipe square, and that it's clean and smooth with no burrs. I usually use sandpaper to clean it up. I just read somewhere that sandpaper is a no-no, too. But they didn't explain. I guess we'll see how my current project goes when ready to test.
it's not SUPER important. it's just a nice little peace of mind thing. if you deburr the edges on the outside (sandpaper, an exacto knife) it does 90% of the effect already.
I tried one of these fittings but after the fix it drips water when the sprinkler valve activates. My water pressure is about 50PSI. The pipe isn't perfectly straight and seems to be sensitive to how it's held. Not very robust as eventually it's going to get dirt thrown on it. I don't want the drip because I don't want to attract tree roots, that's what broke to the first time. Wondering if a 2 piece "Snapper" type clam shell device would work better since it doesn't depend on O rings.
@bricktoes No, dig out the mud 4" below the pipe and use a shop vac to remove extra mud and use a sheet of cardboard to sit/lay on and not have any problems! Oh, did I say to wipe your hands off first?. Dont get me wrong, I have done 2" pipe 2' deep and while laying in the mud....That is how I know to drain out water and dig a lower sump near by to relieve the debris/water etc.. Greg
not sure why you cut 3 inches of pipe out to begin the instructional, only to cut a bigger section out a minute or two later, but I still get the gist. Thanks man
+RickGuyver I think the theory is that first you cut out the bad to make sure it's all gone, then you cut out whatever extra you need to so that the repair can be performed. The idea I presume being that you first make sure your bad section is removed before you worry about making your repair section fit. It's kind of a by the numbers dumbed down way to do it but I doubt it's how he himself actually does it.
What's the name of the part I need? My heatpump overflow drain pipe is long pvc, with first an elbow, then a straight-away, followed by a u-shape dip, then a tee that's opens to the top, followed by more pipe until it connects to a metal joint/pipe. I want to cut the PVC on the first straightaway and add a slip join or mission coupling or I'm not sure what... that will allow me the full 3/4" wide to stick in things to clean the piping, and be easy to open up every year to do this. Been to HomeDepot and Lowes. Have two PVC things (without names) that don't seem right. Also maybe I should be cutting out the drain pipe on both sides and replacing instead? Anyone, can you tell me what you'd use with a name I can look up?
The biggest problem I have with making these pipe repairs is waiting for the water to drain after I've shut off the water supply and before I start gluing the pipes/couplers together. It seems to take hours for the dripping to stop and in the meantime I've got no water in the house. Yet, I never see any mention of this in these PVC pipe repair videos.
+skilltpa pvc chamfer tool/ deburring tool or inner/outer reamer. It's a chamfering tool but it can have other names even though there technically wrong basically.
great vids and instructions.. but this sessions of pvc fixes seems to be cheap and lazy ways to actually fix the pipes... 2 couplings and primer and solvent. much easier and longer lasting.
You bet! Now, tell me how you're going to repair a straight run of PVC pipe buried 3' underground with 2 couplings. You could glue 1 coupling, and maybe the piece of pipe. How are you going to fit the other coupling? It's not possible. Plumbing since 1976
I wish more professionals were open to improving their PVC skills. I see too many leaks from poor workmanship. Everyone thinks since it is sold @ home ctr. it is a "No brainer" How insulting, to diy's and real pro's.
Now I really think that was ridiculous. Shouldn't you mark the depth of the slip before you prime/glue. And I don't like the fear of "a few seconds left" to attach the other side. WHY can't you prime/glue one side and then when that is complete, do the other end??
For 3/4 pipe Part Muller KBI QF-0750 Upc 011651237509 One that looks like this one but is a screw together two piece, on one end, it screws on, which has an additional o-ring don't use that one after a while it will leak at the screw on end at the o-ring.
You must be installing them in 80 psi plus pressures, or not installing them as per manufactures recomendations. They meet and exceed ASTM, and UPC testing standards. Code approved, when installed correctly.
@@TheGregchick Rated higher then 80 psi. Should withstand up to 150 psi when properly installed. Most instructions, if any at all, fail to mention the "fix" must be fully extended to seal the sliding tube o-rings into place.
I used your video and repaired the 3/4 " supply line to my house. The slip fix worked great when a compression fitting wouldn't hold....thanks
My hero! I impressed myself & my husband by fixing a leak in a sprinkler pipe thanks to your video.
emstaylor is there a special direction to install this maybe with the water flow but it does not matter?
emstaylor is there a special direction to install this maybe with the water flow but it does not matter?
Thanks for this video! My water line (from the ground up into my mobile) froze and cracked. Every video I came across had some guy joining two pieces of loose PVC pipe. Well yea.. This is what I was looking for, repairing a broken pipe that is fixed in place.
Thank you for sharing, Greg.
You laid out the procedure clearly and completely.
my left ear loves this video!!!
IMPORTANT NOTE! When purchasing the slip fix be sure to check that the O Ring is inside (where it turns to tighten). Loosen the plastic completely and you will see the O Ring. I purchased one and didn't think or know to look. After installing it, it leaked! I had to cut it out, realized the problem (no O Ring), and replaced it. The new part (with the O Ring) worked perfectly as described.
Thanks for the comment, I know what the slip fitting feels like with an O-ring, so I know I would catch that, but others do not know the feel to expect. It likely could be corrected even after solvent joining the ends however... stretch the o ring on to the fitting body...
@@TheGregchick Only if the "fix" has a union.
Thanks so much for this video! I've never done anything with PVC pipe and the freeze last night bust one of our spigot's outside. I was able to fix it myself and you saved me a ton of $. Thanks! :o)
Thanks for the video. I was in a hurry yesterday when I installed one of these on the end of a 90° elbow from a valve. After the installation I noticed the slip was sucking in when turning on a sprinkler and pushing out when turning off the sprinkler. I looked up this video to see if maybe I should have applied glue in the slip joint.
Will try it tomorrow! Thanks for the video.
Tools or bits, are made to drill out the pipe in the socket. Hardware stores have them. Called Ram bit. then insert what you want.
I want to add in a clean-out in a PVC pipe and face the same issue of a fixed line with limited working space. What type of fittings would you suggest? Two no hub fittings and a cleanout? I don't want this to become another point of potential blockage either.
The slip fix fittings are listed and professional. If one is just repairing a sprinkler line in a lawn system OK, but hose inner diameter for 1" PVC pipe is hard to find a hose section to cut up....clamps can blow out w/o circular groves to cause grip. Slip fittings are ANSI, UPC, NSF ETC. I use them when the pipe is between a rock n a hard place...
This and your 4 x 90 video are excellent, very instructional. Would you feel comfortable about using a slip fitting underground? My 1 inch main service line has a slow leak that I'm going about to tear in to. Given the choice, would you go with the slip fitting (as reliable?) or the elbows (loss in pressure?). Consider the repair is in Tennessee, potential annual temp range of 25-105 degrees. Thanks a lot!
Thanks so much for the video. Very informative to me.
I have a 2" , 200 psi pvc pipe. Will this work for that?
Great video, not sure where to find the metal cone shaver for PVC???
For alignment issues the 4 90 deg. elbow works best.
i just installed a 3" slip fix twice and both leaked at the slip area not my glued areas, Iv'e installed a lot of 3/4 and 1" ones with out a problem, both of the 3" ones had just a small slow drip, the slip fix is within 10" of a 45 degree elbow so i'm thinking there must be a little side pressure causing the leak ?
A novice question: all references are to sprinkler systems. I recently took a wet bar out of our house. The PVC pipe drain broke off the wall and in a manner that can't be capped or plugged. Can this method be used for a 1 1/4" diameter PVC pipe in an exterior wall? I'm not sure that the pipe leads to upwards OR down but it has been uncapped for several days with no "activity".
Thanks so much you just saved me $40
What pressure and how long did you let it cure?
This "slip fix" does not have a rubber "o-ring" at the large end as this slip-fix does not have the "union" pre-built" in. There are only 2 small o-rings on the sliding tube, that need to be extended fully in order to properly seal. There are other slip fixes that have a built-in union.
By cure I meant after the joing was made how long before you turned on the water ?
The slip joint has is recommending has a rubber gasket, which over time and depending on the water hardness will deteriorate and fail. The pvc joint manufactures used to make a non-stop slip straight connector which was ideal for short connections. I don't understand why it's difficult to purchase....Of course, they want to sell you the more expensive solution.
Hi, great video! Will this method work when fixing a hole in my underground pool plumbing or should I try your 4 X 90s method? Thanks!
At less than 100 PSI, yes. Slip fittings are better than 4 90's
What is your point? my comments about a price could be for a 1/2" or a 2" and it could include the mark up a licensed Plumbing contractor charges including coupling and tax.? is that your issue? or that some times no room exists for a slip fix and 4, 90 deg. ells is used?
I have owned a wholesale and retail pipe and irrigation supply house before and actually know what I am talking about. I think you are being critical for some reason, but not sure what your issue is.
Uh oh. I didn't know how important it is to camphor the pipes. It makes sense though. I usually just make sure that I cut the pipe square, and that it's clean and smooth with no burrs. I usually use sandpaper to clean it up. I just read somewhere that sandpaper is a no-no, too. But they didn't explain. I guess we'll see how my current project goes when ready to test.
it's not SUPER important. it's just a nice little peace of mind thing. if you deburr the edges on the outside (sandpaper, an exacto knife) it does 90% of the effect already.
@TheCraftyGemini Cool, glad to help
I tried one of these fittings but after the fix it drips water when the sprinkler valve activates. My water pressure is about 50PSI. The pipe isn't perfectly straight and seems to be sensitive to how it's held. Not very robust as eventually it's going to get dirt thrown on it. I don't want the drip because I don't want to attract tree roots, that's what broke to the first time. Wondering if a 2 piece "Snapper" type clam shell device would work better since it doesn't depend on O rings.
@bricktoes
No, dig out the mud 4" below the pipe and use a shop vac to remove extra mud and use a sheet of cardboard to sit/lay on and not have any problems! Oh, did I say to wipe your hands off first?. Dont get me wrong, I have done 2" pipe 2' deep and while laying in the mud....That is how I know to drain out water and dig a lower sump near by to relieve the debris/water etc..
Greg
not sure why you cut 3 inches of pipe out to begin the instructional, only to cut a bigger section out a minute or two later, but I still get the gist. Thanks man
+RickGuyver I think the theory is that first you cut out the bad to make sure it's all gone, then you cut out whatever extra you need to so that the repair can be performed. The idea I presume being that you first make sure your bad section is removed before you worry about making your repair section fit. It's kind of a by the numbers dumbed down way to do it but I doubt it's how he himself actually does it.
Can you do the same in metal tubing? Such as aluminum or copper?
Shark-bite
So does mine, the other is deaf. is yours?
What's the name of the part I need?
My heatpump overflow drain pipe is long pvc, with first an elbow, then a straight-away, followed by a u-shape dip, then a tee that's opens to the top, followed by more pipe until it connects to a metal joint/pipe.
I want to cut the PVC on the first straightaway and add a slip join or mission coupling or I'm not sure what...
that will allow me the full 3/4" wide to stick in things to clean the piping, and be easy to open up every year to do this. Been to HomeDepot and Lowes. Have two PVC things (without names) that don't seem right. Also maybe I should be cutting out the drain pipe on both sides and replacing instead?
Anyone, can you tell me what you'd use with a name I can look up?
🤣🤣🤣
The biggest problem I have with making these pipe repairs is waiting for the water to drain after I've shut off the water supply and before I start gluing the pipes/couplers together. It seems to take hours for the dripping to stop and in the meantime I've got no water in the house. Yet, I never see any mention of this in these PVC pipe repair videos.
Dont turn off the water main to the house just the outside irrigation.
wet/dry vac and open a faucet down the line
40 PSI is low, 140 PSI is high. The four 90 method is a good one.
How many feet a part for 1in pvc condyit?
i have a problem,how to repair pvc pipe leaking.its leaking at the elbow.hope
i dont need to change all becausealread glue with pvc primer
Thumbs up...thanx for info
before this i already try to put pvc glue at the spot.but donts work..help me.i just
1/2inch pipe
what is that silver tool you used on the ends of the pvc to shave them down?
+skilltpa pvc chamfer tool/ deburring tool or inner/outer reamer. It's a chamfering tool but it can have other names even though there technically wrong basically.
Looks like Reed Tool DEB2 Deburring Tool www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ODWR0E
Thanks!
what is that cutter instrument that you are using to cut the pipes with called?
+aznsketcher PVC pipe cutter.
Hardware stores sell them
Watch my other videos and clear a drain or fix a toilet.....it is like self defense, you never know when you will need it!
Greg
If you have room for a slip fix, use it, pool pressure is low and easy..
Regardless a slip fix is more professional, and DIY is cheaper than hiring out.
I bought a 3/4 slip fix fitting for under $5.00 today. This seems cheaper than buying a hose with 2 clamps.
On my phone the audio is super low
@txkid123 I am a realist!, however I saw your page and love Britni Tube Top! thank you.
great vids and instructions.. but this sessions of pvc fixes seems to be cheap and lazy ways to actually fix the pipes... 2 couplings and primer and solvent. much easier and longer lasting.
You bet! Now, tell me how you're going to repair a straight run of PVC pipe buried 3' underground with 2 couplings. You could glue 1 coupling, and maybe the piece of pipe. How are you going to fit the other coupling? It's not possible. Plumbing since 1976
I wish more professionals were open to improving their PVC skills. I see too many leaks from poor workmanship. Everyone thinks since it is sold @ home ctr. it is a "No brainer" How insulting, to diy's and real pro's.
Im dealing with those but in 4" :D
correction: 1 1/2"
Now I really think that was ridiculous. Shouldn't you mark the depth of the slip before you prime/glue. And I don't like the fear of "a few seconds left" to attach the other side. WHY can't you prime/glue one side and then when that is complete, do the other end??
Jazziegirltoo A - More than 1 way to skin a cat
@jeremydbrooks
subscribe and learn as we post new stuff, it is all spam & cost free a real bargain !
For 3/4 pipe Part Muller KBI QF-0750 Upc 011651237509
One that looks like this one but is a screw together two piece, on one end, it screws on, which has an additional o-ring don't use that one after a while it will leak at the screw on end at the o-ring.
Old School.... :(
would have been more effective if you would have actually put in the repair.
Slip fix fittings sucks there just temporary repairs and they always fail
You must be installing them in 80 psi plus pressures, or not installing them as per manufactures recomendations. They meet and exceed ASTM, and UPC testing standards. Code approved, when installed correctly.
@@TheGregchick Rated higher then 80 psi. Should withstand up to 150 psi when properly installed. Most instructions, if any at all, fail to mention the "fix" must be fully extended to seal the sliding tube o-rings into place.
I used your video and repaired the 3/4 " supply line to my house. The slip fix worked great when a compression fitting wouldn't hold....thanks