I hate when they constantly say Mori is hesitant. She is not hesitant, she is feeling the holds and deciding what she wants to do. She is just that good to be able to change things midway when she feels there is a more economical way of getting it done. She does not fight the wall and just falls into the angles, good study of fulcrum. The beauty and intelligence of her movement is a treat to watch.
@@boon_fps just because someone is analyzing, doesn't make them unsure of what they're doing, if she was unsure, she wouldn't have won so many competitions
11:19 "she's not so good at this but she gets far enough" is something I'd like them to say twice! Ai Mori is fantastic at these static moves and she finds genius solutions to dynos that no one else finds. Ai is very talented but it seems the commentator is always trying to cast doubt on her talent. I wonder if they're trying too hard to favor Janja sometimes.
you could be right, I feel like they didn't give her enough credit throughout the climb. Easy for me to say though now that I know she won, before knowing the result one might think she was struggling
And Ai-san still does not get the credit she deserves. Two consecutive lead comps she has won and it was framed as Janja lost it in the semi final by failing to clip the last quick draw in time, which while true on the count back rules, but IFSC frames the narrative as Janja lost rather than Ai-san won.
I've noticed the same. She really doesn't get the credit she deserves. I'm really not an expert, but it does seem like Mori is better than Janja on the comp lead routes.
@@hermannwigers8321 It's not that I contend that Ai-san is better, but over the last two lead competitions she has beat Janja. My issue is that the IFSC appear to think that Janja is the second coming and all the other female climbers are just extra's, to make up the numbers. This, Ai-san's second consecutive win over Janja in lead was framed by IFSC commentator as Janja having lost, having not clipped the last quick draw in the semi finals, rather than that Ai-san, who is 7 years Janja's junior, so less experienced in competition and much smaller in stature, beat Janja due to being the best and most consistent climber through qualifications, semi final and final.
@@BoulderingHighlights Even the captions on this video do not do Ai-san Justice. Caption 1. "Off to a shakey start". She is 5ft exactly, so she needs to be measured and precice on sequences more suited to taller climbers. I do not see a "shakey" start but rather her on siting a beta that she thinks will suit her style better. Second caption, "Climbing too careful, too hesitant". Same as above. I watch this tiny young woman climb and am amazed by her ability to route read and on site her beta on the fly, by her strength, her endurance, her flexability, her ability to hold the smallest of crimps. She held a hold close to the top with just two fingers ffs. The speed she climbed the top section at, being aware of her remaining time was superb to me to watch. Akiyo-san has a UA-cam channel with some of the Japese male climbers and in one of the videos they invite Ai-san to a climbing competition and she climbs against Tomoa. They take it in turns and Ai-san climbs 8 consecutive routes and looks as good on the 8th as on the first. Tomoa could hardly use his hands on the 7th climb and fell off on the 8th. I have watched videos of Japanese climbing comps from 2014/2015 where Ai-san is only 10/11 and looks even smaller than she is today and she is still absolutely amazing, still really strong and tenacious, never giving up. Janja is a great climber and it is clear the amount of work she puts in. I watched her climb a chimney stack with a friend and was in awe. My issue is not with Janja but with the way the IFSC commentate her climbs towards the way they comment on the other women climbers.
true always felt a little awkward when the commentators just assumed that janja gonna win every comp after janja’s having that great season but in fact ai and seo did a really good job on the lead walls it’s not like they’re better than janja. it’s a competition and they all did a really great job. Also, ai really nailed the higher part of the wall. they just have different skills set and are good at different styles
Ai Mori didn’t have to topped faster than Janja. If she tops, she’ll automatically be above Janja. Since Janja didn’t top the semifinal (due to run out of the time). But she has to be faster than Seo (just in case Seo also topped the route). I enjoy this 3 ways battle between Ai vs Janja vs Seo. Pushed each other to be better and better.
Janja is the top athlete in the WC, but her level is incredibly dominant - only Chaehyung Seo and Natalia Grossman reached all the finals in the Lead WC 2022. The fact that she, with the exception of Koper, was always at the top underlines that. With Ai Mori Janja have now an another top athlete to beat. Rather, Ai Mori has confirmed that she can beat Janja. That makes next year's WC more exciting, especially for the next Olympic Games in 2024 in Paris. And that's something that makes the sport more attractive to spectators.
Seeing this 3 way fight in person was absolutley incredible, you could tell the exact second Ai Mori saw the clock because she FLEW up the top of the route. The noise was insane as the clock started to get low and I belive she clipped with to 2 seconds left!!!!!
It's rare to see Ai smiling, she is always so focused and keeps poker face... but love her climbing style and insane ability to find ways that no one can think of❤
Ai Mori has to go back to the school for the new school season. She will not register the next Jakarta WC. I miss her. We will see her at the Morioka WC next.
I think it would be very cool and exciting to have a timer that shows the split between climbers at different holds/sections of the route. I wonder if Ai was quite behind Janja on time earlier on in the route, then played an immense amount of catch up to win it
imagine being a route setter and putting a superb dyno that will test the climbers dynamic abilities to the limit and then Ai comes and does it statically
Way back in the Golden Age, Chuck Pratt was the finesse/balance climber. Ai Mori is more like that. Janja climbs more like a guy. Ai's first place is more remarkable, as she has less experience, and the makeup of these routes favor her dynamic style.
It is fascinating to have Ai Mori to spice up the competition this year. But 10 years from now, when we look back, Janja Gambret's superiority will be obvious. We all can watch a phenomenon in his sport: Janja's superiority in climbing is similar to Pelé's in soccer or Michael Jordan's in basketball... Ai Mori is an artist and Janja is a machine: in results who wins?
I much prefer to watch an artist. Like I much prefer watching Federer play tennis than Nadal or Djokovic. It’s not just about numbers but the experience and the joy of watching poetry in motion. I don’t even climb myself. 😂. Yet Ai Mori is the only climber who has captivated my attention and I revel in watching her climb. Looking forward to seeing her climb in Paris. 🎉
So this count back rule basically rewards finalists that do really well throughout the qualifications rounds? Would it be better to just erase that and whatever happens in the finals is the final result? Just seems unfortunate for Janja.
They only do count back if there's a tie. Just like this final because both Janja and Ai topped the route. So they use the semifinal result to break the tie.
@@MarkCrimper because lead climbing isn’t supposed to be about speed. It’s about finishing the route, rather than climbing it as fast as you can (because that’s speed climbing). They only refer to the time if there’s no other way to separate them. For example if they are both topped all 4 routes in final, semi final, and quails. Only combined format (like last Olympics) use time as a tie breaker immediately. If you watch IFSC Lead in Chamonix 2019. They have 5 people with the same score during final: Chaeyeon Seo, YeuTong Zang, Jessi Pilz, Ai Mori, and Ashima Shiraishi 😓 and it was decided by countback too. Horrible because all 5 have the same score as gold medalist. But that’s just how the sport has been. I’m sure there are a lot more examples of this.
Janja topped both times and they didn't give her a top in the first round because of time but she did the harder second climb the fastest by far, deserved the gold in my opinion
No. That’s not how it works. When time is up, your next move wont be counted. Just like how on the previous competition Ai Mori was the only climber to topped both routes in qualification. But she run out of time on one of the route, so they only awarded Ai Mori 1 top. Even tho she topped both. If you can’t top the route within 6 mins limit, then it wouldn’t be counted as a top. Simple. With that logic, Ai Mori is the only competitor to officially topped ALL 4 routes during this competition. Definitely deserved that gold.
@@devratnasari yeah, thats true, but I also feel like it takes the excitement and pressure from the finals when one person cannot win. Janja could have ran up the Final route and it would not have gotten her anywhere. As a consequence, I would prefer either the time in finals being prioritized above countback or maybe somehow setup a calculation which includes time spent & countback etc. After all, all those problems in this case came from the routes being way to easy, its just not funny anymore when 2 people top every route and a third tops 3/4 routes. That just shows the problem in the womens field - Janja and Ai Mori are just miles above the competition, the only one who can consistently try to compete is Seo.
0:00 Timestamps Below
0:09 Janja Garnbret SLO
2:48 CRUX 1
4:16 CRUX 2
6:23 Chae Hyun KOR
9:05 Ai Mori
11:13 WOW
12:15 Ai Mori BEAST MODE
13:43 Results
I hate when they constantly say Mori is hesitant. She is not hesitant, she is feeling the holds and deciding what she wants to do. She is just that good to be able to change things midway when she feels there is a more economical way of getting it done. She does not fight the wall and just falls into the angles, good study of fulcrum. The beauty and intelligence of her movement is a treat to watch.
that still hesitant she is slow in acting or unsure
Its called analysis before acting.
@@grannysint1625 so hesitant to make the move cause she is analysing it so hesitant.
@@boon_fps just because someone is analyzing, doesn't make them unsure of what they're doing, if she was unsure, she wouldn't have won so many competitions
@@pavelle5432 slow in acting why dont u learn the definition
11:19 "she's not so good at this but she gets far enough" is something I'd like them to say twice! Ai Mori is fantastic at these static moves and she finds genius solutions to dynos that no one else finds. Ai is very talented but it seems the commentator is always trying to cast doubt on her talent. I wonder if they're trying too hard to favor Janja sometimes.
you could be right, I feel like they didn't give her enough credit throughout the climb. Easy for me to say though now that I know she won, before knowing the result one might think she was struggling
I wonder if 2023 finals was specifically designed to favor Janja
racist white supremacy supporter.
I just love ai mori style, she climbing new style route with traditional climbing stlye... It jist beautiful to watch
Well said! It's an art
And Ai-san still does not get the credit she deserves. Two consecutive lead comps she has won and it was framed as Janja lost it in the semi final by failing to clip the last quick draw in time, which while true on the count back rules, but IFSC frames the narrative as Janja lost rather than Ai-san won.
I've noticed the same. She really doesn't get the credit she deserves. I'm really not an expert, but it does seem like Mori is better than Janja on the comp lead routes.
@@hermannwigers8321 It's not that I contend that Ai-san is better, but over the last two lead competitions she has beat Janja. My issue is that the IFSC appear to think that Janja is the second coming and all the other female climbers are just extra's, to make up the numbers.
This, Ai-san's second consecutive win over Janja in lead was framed by IFSC commentator as Janja having lost, having not clipped the last quick draw in the semi finals, rather than that Ai-san, who is 7 years Janja's junior, so less experienced in competition and much smaller in stature, beat Janja due to being the best and most consistent climber through qualifications, semi final and final.
thats true dude! Didnt think of it that way.
@@BoulderingHighlights Even the captions on this video do not do Ai-san Justice. Caption 1. "Off to a shakey start". She is 5ft exactly, so she needs to be measured and precice on sequences more suited to taller climbers.
I do not see a "shakey" start but rather her on siting a beta that she thinks will suit her style better.
Second caption, "Climbing too careful, too hesitant". Same as above.
I watch this tiny young woman climb and am amazed by her ability to route read and on site her beta on the fly, by her strength, her endurance, her flexability, her ability to hold the smallest of crimps. She held a hold close to the top with just two fingers ffs. The speed she climbed the top section at, being aware of her remaining time was superb to me to watch.
Akiyo-san has a UA-cam channel with some of the Japese male climbers and in one of the videos they invite Ai-san to a climbing competition and she climbs against Tomoa. They take it in turns and Ai-san climbs 8 consecutive routes and looks as good on the 8th as on the first. Tomoa could hardly use his hands on the 7th climb and fell off on the 8th.
I have watched videos of Japanese climbing comps from 2014/2015 where Ai-san is only 10/11 and looks even smaller than she is today and she is still absolutely amazing, still really strong and tenacious, never giving up.
Janja is a great climber and it is clear the amount of work she puts in. I watched her climb a chimney stack with a friend and was in awe. My issue is not with Janja but with the way the IFSC commentate her climbs towards the way they comment on the other women climbers.
true
always felt a little awkward when the commentators just assumed that janja gonna win every comp after janja’s having that great season
but in fact ai and seo did a really good job on the lead walls
it’s not like they’re better than janja. it’s a competition and they all did a really great job.
Also, ai really nailed the higher part of the wall. they just have different skills set and are good at different styles
Ai Mori didn’t have to topped faster than Janja. If she tops, she’ll automatically be above Janja. Since Janja didn’t top the semifinal (due to run out of the time). But she has to be faster than Seo (just in case Seo also topped the route).
I enjoy this 3 ways battle between Ai vs Janja vs Seo. Pushed each other to be better and better.
Yup youre right! exciting to see top athletes pushing each other :D
Janja is the top athlete in the WC, but her level is incredibly dominant - only Chaehyung Seo and Natalia Grossman reached all the finals in the Lead WC 2022. The fact that she, with the exception of Koper, was always at the top underlines that. With Ai Mori Janja have now an another top athlete to beat. Rather, Ai Mori has confirmed that she can beat Janja. That makes next year's WC more exciting, especially for the next Olympic Games in 2024 in Paris. And that's something that makes the sport more attractive to spectators.
Seeing this 3 way fight in person was absolutley incredible, you could tell the exact second Ai Mori saw the clock because she FLEW up the top of the route. The noise was insane as the clock started to get low and I belive she clipped with to 2 seconds left!!!!!
Wow so jealous! I'd love to see it live. How was the entire experience from the audience view?
Aí Mori is incredible, love her attitude off the wall and on the wall too. Hope seeing her for a long time in the comps
It's rare to see Ai smiling, she is always so focused and keeps poker face... but love her climbing style and insane ability to find ways that no one can think of❤
She just doesn't smile in front of new people. She often smile in front of people close to her and Japanese climbers.
Ai is one of my favorite climbers. So amazing to watch
Ai Mori has to go back to the school for the new school season. She will not register the next Jakarta WC. I miss her.
We will see her at the Morioka WC next.
Omg nooo morioka is in Japan?
@@BoulderingHighlights
Morioka is located in the Tohoku region of northern Japan.
:O where did you get this info? :D
Janja won the world cup this year, but the true star is this impressive tiny Japanese climber. She competed just few times and she's already a legend.
13:36 an angel descending from heaven! As the music plays
I think it would be very cool and exciting to have a timer that shows the split between climbers at different holds/sections of the route. I wonder if Ai was quite behind Janja on time earlier on in the route, then played an immense amount of catch up to win it
imagine being a route setter and putting a superb dyno that will test the climbers dynamic abilities to the limit and then Ai comes and does it statically
Way better than the manga!
Wow this is just.. amazing competition I can't say anything really respect two of them but especially to Mori
Way back in the Golden Age, Chuck Pratt was the finesse/balance climber. Ai Mori is more like that. Janja climbs more like a guy. Ai's first place is more remarkable, as she has less experience, and the makeup of these routes favor her dynamic style.
난 한국인인데 아이 모리 응원함
Very happy for Janja! The best!
Both never fail to mesmerize me.
Mori as being a force of ... I dunno, maybe grace, Garnbret a force of awesomeness.
Thanks!
Music is a bit too loud, though.
These videos would be much better without the awful music underneath
or at least much quieter
Do you think Annie sanders can be up there with Ai and Janja she’s winning nationals at only 15 and she’s just 16 during the trials
Amazing athletes :)
Quick edit bro!
And Mori, also!
I don't watch this sort of stuff normally but why is the camera work so terrible?
Kunoichi
ちなみに握力３３ｋｇである(笑)
It is fascinating to have Ai Mori to spice up the competition this year. But 10 years from now, when we look back, Janja Gambret's superiority will be obvious. We all can watch a phenomenon in his sport: Janja's superiority in climbing is similar to Pelé's in soccer or Michael Jordan's in basketball... Ai Mori is an artist and Janja is a machine: in results who wins?
I much prefer to watch an artist. Like I much prefer watching Federer play tennis than Nadal or Djokovic. It’s not just about numbers but the experience and the joy of watching poetry in motion. I don’t even climb myself. 😂. Yet Ai Mori is the only climber who has captivated my attention and I revel in watching her climb. Looking forward to seeing her climb in Paris. 🎉
My comment from yesterday (with a harmless link to the full stream on olympic channel) has been deleated. Don't know why, gives me an anxious feeling
👍
I'm sure it's Edinburgh. Where on earth is Edinborough? 😀
You're right haha
Music is annoying
開始前、ここに足かけたら登れんじゃね？一同「えっ？」(笑)
日本コーチ陣ポカーンなのが笑える
It’s Edinburgh not edinborough
Prefiro Janja 🕸️👍💪🤩
なんで勝ってるのか？楽しんだ結果(笑)
yo this music is annoying the shit out of me
So this count back rule basically rewards finalists that do really well throughout the qualifications rounds? Would it be better to just erase that and whatever happens in the finals is the final result? Just seems unfortunate for Janja.
They only do count back if there's a tie. Just like this final because both Janja and Ai topped the route. So they use the semifinal result to break the tie.
@@devratnasari Why can’t they break the tie with whoever climbed up the route the fastest?
@@MarkCrimper because lead climbing isn’t supposed to be about speed. It’s about finishing the route, rather than climbing it as fast as you can (because that’s speed climbing). They only refer to the time if there’s no other way to separate them. For example if they are both topped all 4 routes in final, semi final, and quails.
Only combined format (like last Olympics) use time as a tie breaker immediately.
If you watch IFSC Lead in Chamonix 2019. They have 5 people with the same score during final: Chaeyeon Seo, YeuTong Zang, Jessi Pilz, Ai Mori, and Ashima Shiraishi 😓 and it was decided by countback too. Horrible because all 5 have the same score as gold medalist. But that’s just how the sport has been. I’m sure there are a lot more examples of this.
@@devratnasari Thank you for the clarification. That makes total sense. Tough break for the climbers.
wtf cheap tiktok music man
in my opinion Janja is more complete
Trueee
It's kinda nice then than a more complete athlete couldn't beat Ai.
@@dorianrustik6880 this didn't age well.
Janja topped both times and they didn't give her a top in the first round because of time but she did the harder second climb the fastest by far, deserved the gold in my opinion
No. That’s not how it works. When time is up, your next move wont be counted. Just like how on the previous competition Ai Mori was the only climber to topped both routes in qualification. But she run out of time on one of the route, so they only awarded Ai Mori 1 top. Even tho she topped both.
If you can’t top the route within 6 mins limit, then it wouldn’t be counted as a top. Simple.
With that logic, Ai Mori is the only competitor to officially topped ALL 4 routes during this competition. Definitely deserved that gold.
@@devratnasari yeah, thats true, but I also feel like it takes the excitement and pressure from the finals when one person cannot win. Janja could have ran up the Final route and it would not have gotten her anywhere. As a consequence, I would prefer either the time in finals being prioritized above countback or maybe somehow setup a calculation which includes time spent & countback etc.
After all, all those problems in this case came from the routes being way to easy, its just not funny anymore when 2 people top every route and a third tops 3/4 routes. That just shows the problem in the womens field - Janja and Ai Mori are just miles above the competition, the only one who can consistently try to compete is Seo.
@@vorlostzurab7653 There is a sport where speed is the deciding factor, funnily enough it's called speed climbing ;)
@@vorlostzurab7653 yeah cuz lead climbing is totally about speed and not technique 🥱🥱🥱
If Ai is just 5cm taller she would beat anybody.