How to replace, fix or repair a steel or nylon gas fuel line leak
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- Опубліковано 21 січ 2018
- On a rusty, rusted, rust ridden old piece of crap!
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Due to factors beyond the control of Rust Belt Auto, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Rust Belt Auto assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this video at your own risk. Rust Belt Auto recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Rust Belt Auto, No information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained. - Авто та транспорт
Well done, Sir. Trying to get a good seal on a fuel line myself in NC. Thanks for the inspiration!
Never ever reuse a steel line that was covered in rust. If you take a wire wheel to it it WILL leak due to rust pitting. Done a bunch of Saturn Ions , Cavaliers, Cobalts, HHRs...learned that the hard way
This video was so helpful I've been struggling with with my fuel filter and how to connect my nylon line to a 3/8 4in steel fuel line and your 13-minute video had more information than I was able to find in the past couple of days and talking to the auto stores
You may be able to find a quick connect fuel filter if needed. I have done that lately.
Look up dorman 800-233
Awesome! I just picked up an '06 Grand Prix. Safety says it needs "fuel lines" (although they're not leaking) and rusty rockers. (Typical GM).
Other than that, it's a decent car for $300! 3800 series III runs like a champ. 221 K Kms.
Thanks!
Working on 2008 Chevy Cobalt 2.2L. It looks like the bracket holding the lines in place is the culprit on the return line (or maybe its called the E-VAP line?). In any event, I found this video extremely informative and helpful. I wish I had found this before I shelled out 160 bucks on the whole replacement kit. Gonna work on it on the 31st, if the part can get here fast enough. Sadly all the local places didn't have the exact parts I needed right away and I live in a very secluded part of the country. Oh well lol wish me luck!
Ummmm... Okay, good luck?!?!?!!?
THANK YOU!! This give me many more options for fixing my Buick.
"AAND IT LRAKS" 😄😄 Classic buddy! Thank you brother in arms.
Thank you for helping customer up with this job. Good man 👍
Can't believe that someone drives that rust bucket man that's as far away from F1 mechanic's as you can get. brilliant ingenuity and your funny when commentating because you know the car's not worth the length of pipe used. you nailed the channel name cheers thanks for the comedy.
Lol... "It needs new."
My hyundai that i got for 500 had the fuel filter like rust welded it ran before i discover the issue. Tried replacing it and cracked my fuel line. This video brings me safe of mind that I could fix that shit easily. Thank You!!!
This video makes me wish every car had an easily accessible fire extinguisher. I have no idea why they are not in every car ever made.
@@RustBeltAuto honestly me too. Sketchy cutting the fuel lines. Good thing I had one from my house. I used your trick for my car. And she’s running like a beauty now. I just gotta give it a tune up and my as well replace my fuel pump for that safe of mind. Thank you for your great videos!!
@@DDss11a those pumps rarely go bad.
@@RustBeltAuto True true. from driving it last night it sounds good. a bit louder when pressurizing the fuel lines before starting but nothing bad or hindering. I just thought I would need to cause the fuel filter never had been replaced till i got to it. My car has 118000 miles on it and I'm still fairly new to this but it's very interesting.
This could be helpful for this type of repair. GM example.
Dorman 800-153 Fuel Filter Repair Line
ACDelco GF578 Professional Fuel Filter check for your vechical.
AGS M16 x 1.5 tube nut with a surface seal inverted flare type.
Style: Fuel (Complete In-Line) Filter
Inlet: 3/8
Outlet: 16X1.5 MM
GM push connect if you need to make it with flare tool.
GM bell flare.
Very informative just what I was looking for.
I needed this video. Thanks ! I’m gonna head to the junkyard now
I'am Your Newest Subscriber Great Videos
I think 🤔 I would have gone to the junkyard for parts.. i like the last part.
Lovely fix😆
You're face expression, say's it all...😆
You done a great Job I have a 05 blazer 4x4 custom I'm a backyard mech in a townhouse complex The Landlord is willing to look the other way on min repairs Long as you dont have oil and gas all over the place And parts laying around for 2-3 days
I listed steel lines nearly $200 for just the rear ..Nope going to do full nylon from tank to fuel filter 3/8 and 5/8 i think
That car you worked on..In my area if he gets seen by police they pull him over call the ministry of transport and have the car towed and impounded till it is abandoned or repaired Plus the cost of tow and impound fees ..That door is 1 The rotted frame is 2 ..but here's the kicker if the repair work was mentioned IE Your customer says Well i been trying to get it fixed and road worthy I just had the fuel line repaired today ..the other day etc .. Thye might ask by who ..Then they come to the mechanic and ask to see if he has a lic, And warn him, Fine him, Or remove his lic, (Which is rare on something like this)
Not my country. We don't live like that here. Sounds like soft slavery. Odd how someone could get fined for fixing something that was puking gas all over the place. You live in a weird place. I don't get it.
@@RustBeltAuto Government has standards and guide lines Cars with holes are able to have exhaust fumes enter the car Rotten frame snapping while driving, bad brakes etc It is part of the licensed mechanic to tell the customer they can no longer drive the car safe without making repairs to the areas. They can also inform the same government that issued the license to him that the customer refused repair and drove the car/truck from the shop. I know it sounds like a pain But Think of a dump truck in a school zone with failing brakes It has happen many times over ...I had a lady with a young daughter living next door years back That needed a Battery boost which i gave her when i noticed front tires had metal belts sticking out ..I told her how bad it was and a place to get cheap used tires in better shape and showed her where the safety line was on tires Many people will just drive a car untill something breaks
@@freakyflow we don't need a license to fix a car, and cannot make someone fix it. Too easy to be taken advantage of that way. Unless it is the mechanics fault, the driver is required to be insured, and is liable for damages. Commercial vehicles have DOT. inspections here, but not regular citizens that have the right to travel. Sounds like quite the Milgram experiment you have going on there. I hope you don't need a license, and permission to poo. Thanks for watching!
That’s “ rusty as hell” ? Not sure where your located, but even seeing a few “ clean, un-rusted” lines to connect to, is amazing. Up North in the rust belt, ever line would be totally rusted! And wow..still see untrusted underside panels..Anything over 10 yrsos rusted far worse up here.
Where are you located?
Thanks for sharing. Good points. How much torque do you put on the special compression union that allows you to connect the nylon line to the metal line?
As far as I know, there is no specification. Tight enough to not leak, and not break, or loosen up.
Nice! I'll be doing to same to my old plow truck.
thanks so much I gotta do both the send and return on my 01 cav... the frame of the car is in much better condition but those lines rusted out (thankfully not leaking yet...) in the same spot... the rear brake lines need to be done at the same time been slowly but surely acquiring the parts I need over the last few weeks not chancing another winter in its current condition.... with the lines
Interesting name you have there.
@@RustBeltAuto well that is another story... from several years ago... at some point even tho I had a youtube account after a while they required me to go through extra steps to make up another name and create another password instead of what I had been using for a login in order to post comments.... so out of frustration it's a stab at youtube
@@donadams7469 😂🤣😆
I just broke a gas line putting on a has filter, so this info will be good to use, thanks
Thanks,that is a good training for me and i will do it ,Manny
I'm not ready to scrap my '03 Durango yet but it's showing some rust and leaks. I just can't justify to scrap it because of rusting parts, that's part of life on East Coast!... but mechanics in my area only want to do brake jobs and tune ups and sell tires... so I'll have to do it myself!
Thanks for the school session....
Thank You Thank you worked great !!!!!!!!!
how did you get the compression fitting to pop on raw line I understand the nylon talking about the metal
The brass ring should slide right over it.
can you tell me on the 2005 impala are the lines that connect to the pump nylon lines and if you know do they go down to the fuel filter area where they are steel? i have to change the fuel line the return and vapor lines and i really do not want to drop the tank for that job. looking at the pump it looks line these all are nylon lines and i'm hopping they are nylon down the the filter area. i do not have the car in my garage it is a friends car. thanks
I do not know. The last job I did like this, I used a fuel filter with quick connect fittings on them.
Beautiful work tanks
Welcome!
So, what would stop you from just buying a filter that has the quick connect in and out? Seems like it would save a lot of trouble, especially if you have the tool to press the quick fittings on.
Actually, I did that to the last 2 I have done. It's a better idea.
@@RustBeltAuto Okay, cool. I just picked up two Cobalts for cheap that both need the fuel lines fixed, so I bought the kit that you were using. Hopefully it shouldn't be too much of a problem.
@@woopyass I'm also putting a little JB weld in between the steel fuel line, and the compression crush ring from now on. it seems to help seal it a lot. Good luck!
Worked out pretty good. Man that POS didn't even look road worthy... I do the same thing with using small rubber lines to help isolate wear and rubbing, it works good. Where would we be without zip ties! Man I love them things!
Hi, it would be the original steel pipe near the front to nylon running to back up to the tank where the pipe is still good So steel to nylon.
There is always the option of using rubber fuel injection hose, using a double flairing tool to make a bubble(barb) on the steel pipe to keep the hose from popping off, and using two fuel injection hose clamps on each end to seal it, and hold it on like I mentioned earlier, or double flair the pipe with unions, and use steel line for the whole thing if you cannot find the stuff I used. That is the best advice I can give you. Good luck!
Hi, Good video job.
Question?
Which one is better the STEEL OR THE NYLON fuel lines.....?
Thanks!
Sorry a mean good job!!
I'm a mean, good, video job. It depends. One doesn't rust, doesn't like sharp bends, and can move around, and the other is stronger, doesn't melt, and doesn't move around. I like nylon because it is easy to work with. Bending and double flairing steel can be a pain. The right way to do things is with double flairs on steel, and hose barbs for nylon. Those compression fittings are pretty cheesy. Dorman doesn't make what I want. If they did, I would have done things differently. (Female flair to nylon barb). Thanks for watching!
Thanks, yeah ...... makes sense!
Thanks!
hey thanks man. I was stumped before your video. good job.
It was meant to be humorous. The content was an afterthought. Thanks for watching!
@@RustBeltAuto Hi, is it only Dorman who sell these compression connectors only i live in the UK and there is only one seller on e bay that sells them in a pack of 5 and i only need 2 and by the time he adds the shipping and customs the price jumps from $25 to around $100 which is crazy. I assume my 97 Toyota Carina E will the same size but do they sell them in smaller sizes thanks?
@@gtibruce I only find them in dorman here. Napa sells them individually. I don't know what is like Napa in the UK. The sizes are 3/8", and 5/16". There is always the option of fuel injection hose, doubling fuel injection hose clamps, and making hose barbs with a flairing tool too, but it is more expensive.
@@RustBeltAutoHi, thanks for that but when i went on google and got the first Napa agent shop and found the right one when i went to add to cart to see how much they were it said the shop was closed try another shop. Have you a zip code you could send me that would help trace an alternative shop where you know might be better?
@@gtibruce Napa is a nation wide parts supplier. They are all over the place around here. Maybe you are in the wrong country. UK must have a different idea? Like driving on the other side of the road or something?
Wow! Awesome!
I'm a DIY'r and have incidences where I thought I wasn't using the best judgement but nothing that extreme. You were rightly concerned about inducing additional failure. I counted on any additional failures as wake up clues to WAKE UP.
👏👏👏 for me: GOOD JOB 👍
Where did you get that nylon hose from
Napa has it or amozon
dang, if rusts gets real bad, i would refuse to fix it, especially if i owned a shop like you! sue jobs are just too scary these days...
Any issues with this nylon being close to the exhaust?
Not on this car. I routed everything where the existing line was. Thankfully, he finally junked it anyways, so it's out of my hands. You also have the styrofoam cup full of water in a fire theory going on. It is difficult to melt with liquid in it. Just saying for fun.
I'm working on a Cobalt and the OEM were steel lines that had insulation wraps near this exhaust. Just trying to do the right thing.
I gotta do this on my beater. I hope I can just get some fittings and some line, and not buy the whole kit.
Good for another 100,000 miles 😎
question if a heat sleeve is used over the nylon and the lines are behind the heat shield will they melt????is it safe?
Have you ever put a styrofoam cup full of water into a fire?
@@RustBeltAuto no, your saying the nylon will melt even with the heat wrap...
@@majestic1120 what I'm saying is the fuel in the line should keep it from melting. There is a heat shield there, and you should use it. Wrapping it in thermal is a good idea too.
@@RustBeltAuto Hope your right, thinking this is temporary. will put stainless at the exhaust later on..I bought a 3 foot section of quality heat sleeve and tucked it under the exhaust heat shield behind the stock heat wrap I left on the brake lines.
@@majestic1120 the fuel would need to boil out. Otherwise the pressure will keep the air out, and the temperature should not get over the boiling point of the fuel. It is simple science.
your good
My fuel line is leaking between fuel filter and and line atfitting
Dorman has a steel piece of line for that, and you can also get a filter with a quick connect on one end from a different vehicle, to make something a little different that will work.
was that on a pressurized fuel line?
Yes.
sub frame rotted yet?
It got recycled.
My god what state is that, that the inspections are that freewheeling? That ain’t PA I can tell ya haha.
MN.
Yeah that car would be off the road in PA without all new brake and fuel lines looks like it needs some structural body work too. I had a $500 cavalier here for years I limped along like that but just to pass in my county it needed all of the aforementioned stuff and I had to secure the trunk latch mechanism.
I actually don’t have emissions in my county so I was fortunate there but the lines and stuff were about to pop when I got the car. Fun fun. All the rust here pushed me to start selling undercoating in my shop... it’s an easy sell when I just show them whatever junker I personally drive sitting around.
I'd just use a fuel filter from another GM model with quick connects on both sides.
Smart idea. Why didn't I think of that?
Wondering why the hell I have a leak on a 2016 Ford Focus. Such a new vehicle to be leaking. Can't understand why it's leaking.
A gas leak?
@@RustBeltAuto it appears to be coming from where all the lines are attached to the vehicle. I can't see where it's actually leaking at. I just have an area that's wet and has a slow drip.
@@jasonashley9853 sounds dangerous.
@@RustBeltAuto seems that way but it's been there for a long while now. I'm getting it looked at next week.
What type of lift do you have?
axtra92 it's a maxjax.
Rust Belt Auto is it for low celings?
axtra92 yes. I'm at about 9'4" with the garage door opener. It goes up 4' with the short 3" extensions. I also have the 5 1/2" extensions, and can lift a full size suburban all the way up no problem. It runs on a 110v 15amp circuit, and have not popped it yet.
Rust Belt Auto could you make a video about it? Im looking for a lift for low celings
axtra92 there are a bunch of videos on Danmar MaxJax lifts. As far as I know it is the only 110v portable low lift twin post out there. I almost got a Triumph c 7000, but figured it would be overkill, and there is no safety on it for going too high. This little MaxJax, I don't have to worry about hitting the ceiling. It doesn't go high enough in my garage.
u really have to try to get the surface of the pipe that the ferrule sits on as smooth as possible Fuckin compression fittings can b a bitch to get sealed even on pipe that seems jus fine sometimes but when it does seal itll hold like a mofo :p b careful crankin down on those fittins they like to crack fairly easily especially the cheaper they r, its honestly jus best to use flare fittings for anything on a vehicle especially fuel related or brake line related.
Agreed. A double flair is way better. It's a grueling pain to bend up a steel 3/8" or 5/16" line, so I stick with nylon. Those nuts do crack like you say too. I don't know why these people make them in brass. Lately, I have been putting a very small amount of JB weld in between the line, and ferrule to help seal them, and has been working very well for me.
@@RustBeltAuto do you have a video about how you do the JB weld?
@@ultramagnus8349 I do not. When I do that, I just put the ferrule on the line, slide the body over the line, to see how for the ferrule goes, and put a very small amount of jb weld on the line, where it will sit under the ferrule. When the ferrule is in the location I want it, and the jb weld is under it, I wipe off the excess. That is all you need.
Yea.. That car ether needs to be completely restored or to be recycled. Not sure which is better.
You cannot restore a pile of rust.
@@RustBeltAuto Eh, if you got the time and resources, you can restore anything.
Although the biggest concern here would be the frame. I take it that the frame itself was rusted out?
@@huntergman8338 you could try to sweep up all the rust off the floor, and pick up the rest of the pieces laying all over the countryside, but I don't think you would be able to put humpty dumpty back together again.
@@RustBeltAuto Eh, get the torch and beat the shit out of it. The ork with in you will get it back together.
The fuel line repair costs more than what the car is worth.
Better hope the guy don’t see the video lol
I sent it to him. This guy won't stop giving me one rusted bucket of crap after another. It doesn't end.
I Wouldn't Attach Cooper to Fuel Lines it Seems to Cause More Rust and Could Clog your Injectors i Rather Buy The Easy Fuel Connectors That are a Rubber with Stainless Steal Adapters that Clip into place 😊
You have a link to a product? I don't know what you are talking about.
Man, you should have just replaced all of the lines..
I should have replaced the whole car. Fortunately that job I did lasted longer than the rest of the car. That is the important part. You see a piece of junk like that, it's not about perfection. It's about doing what you do being better than the rest of it. My work was solid, and at least 2 inches on either side of it. The rest of it was some piece of crust beyond definition. Thankfully it has been shredded, separated, and melted down into a different substance by now. Thanks for watching!
You need to change the title of your channel to the Piss Moan and Grunt Auto.
Too many syllables.
😋😎
I would have gave him $500 towards a newer car before working on that mess .
I offered to junk it for free. That was all I was willing to spend.
@@RustBeltAuto haha, I agree. Not worth the time.
Dude, thanks learn new fuel lines how to..
that unibody looked pretty bad ! when do ya tell a guy that his car is no longer road worthy and for his safety and others around him are in danger of injury or worse ! if it were me I'd refuse to work on that pos ! ya might lose a customer, but on the other hand , ya might save a life or two !!!
There was no shortage of me telling him he needs to junk his car. He is on his 3rd piece of crap since that one. I save people who do not listen. If I did not, bad things would happen. Most of the time you need a degree in psychology to deal with these goofy people. They are everywhere.
These things and their successor Cobalt rusted like they were dipped in salt water. I thought modern metallurgy had progressed further. GM really cut corners on these!... China does better !!
It's not the car. It's the salt. A little undercoating goes a long way. People buy these new, and they're too cheap to get it.