Well said. Its very relaxing watching his video's. Maybe because another is working haha no ,all jokes aside. It is as informative as relaxing. Love these video's
The 460 has always been on my shortlist for the next underlever. It was actually my first choice when searching for a quality underlever, I couldn't find one so I went with the more expensive Weihrauch HW97KT Blackline .22. Glad I did! But still looking for a 460!
You made the right choice, my friend, given a choice between the two rifles. However, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend a 460, especially in .22 caliber.
Very bery detailed task totally dismantled replaced and repaired and even the spring from your own stock put its place wow. Total makeover and functional as new BRAVO well done indeed.❤
my 460 soon needs an overhaul so this video came as called. The hidden screw would probably have cost me a lot of time, which I can now save. Thanks for the detailed explanation !!!
I have a Diana 460 magnum in 0.177 cal too..I replaced my Original Spring with a G Smith model 27 spring and replaced the Spring guide rod with a metal one .. nowadays the 460 magnum is crazy accurate and shoot at very high velocities even with pellets upto 10 grains..😊 Thanks for your informative videos upload 👍 Only drawback is that.though the 460 Magnum is quite a handsome rifle it is very heavy 😅
Thanks JL. The 460 Mag is a powerful rifle. My friend has a custom spring for his rifle that I'll be installing in another video. The results will surprise you. Stay tuned. Thanks for watching, my friend.
Another good instructional video, Kevin! Love the bell ringing at the videos end! I hung a large heavy steel frying pan at my shooting range. Makes a hell'va ding when I hit it. Thanks for the inspiration! ScottinPa.
@Marc Myers My Feinwerkbau Sport. A decent jolt but not obnoxious. Hey, would you do me a favor and answer Peter's question about what the buttons are made of again? I deleted your comment instead of mine by mistake. Sorry about that.
Very informative video. I own a K98 in .22 (20fpe). Had my share of issues with it in the beginning due to parts breakages, but they're all ironed out now. Wouldn't want to trade it for the world nowadays.
Glad that you were able to get your rifle straightened out. I've heard of a few issues ( mainly the cocking lever pivot pin ) with the early 460 platform. It seems that these issues were corrected on later production guns. Thanks for watching.
I have a K98 Diana .177 which has a 460 power plant. It malfunctioned the second time I shot it. Ended up being a broken hinge pin (part #15 in the breakdown) it is a common part failure. Installed a Vortek PG4 kit while it was apart. I enjoy the rifle but the new Diana's do not seem to be up to the standards of years past. Good video.
Word around the forums is that the later 460s had a stronger pin. Evidently, the problem was corrected by the time that they assembled mine. Sadly, there aren't many things that are built as well as they used to be. Thanks so much for watching, my friend.
My .22 K98 has been sent back twice within the first 4 months of ownership. Once for the hinge-pin also, and once for a mainspring. I had the sear-spring break on me too (scary thing to happen if the gun is cocked and loaded), but was able to replace it myself. I have it for almost a year now and I haven't had any other issues since, and I am very happy with its accuracy and performance. There's a 2018 production date stamped on the reciever tube. My 350 Magnum (2021 production date on the stock) hasn't had any issues ever since I took it out of the box 6 months ago. Both are shot weekly.
Great video, many thanks! I have the Mauser model which I believe is the same system. The cocking linkage shattered and thanks to you I now know how to take the thing apart. Where to get spare parts though, that’s the next conundrum.
The earlier rifles had issues with the cocking pin or it's housing breaking. As far as I know, the newer models have corrected those problems Unfortunately, I don't know where to direct you for repair parts. You may want to start here... twchambers.co.uk/airgun-spares/diana-original/mod-470-th/
A quick Google, the Diana is very affordable and available here in the UK. Looks like a straight forward rifle to work on if a bit fiddly in parts. Glad it was a simple fix in the end.
That screw holding the cocking lever does look fiddly but Diana guns are high quality rifles should last forever if serviced regularly. Great video mate you're a master gunsmith thanks for sharing your knowledge. One love to all 🇬🇧🇵🇰 Ali
Thanks Ali, but I'm far from a master gunsmith. I'm more of a tinkerer. You're right about Diana airguns from Germany. They're top quality, heirloom guns. Thanks so much for watching, my friend.
I had my share of issues too. Mine is a 2018 production, full power .22 I bought new out of the box last year. Not soon after that the cocking pin sheered off. A month or 3 later the main spring broke. Both were repaired under warranty, with no cost of my own. It took almost a month and a half until I got it back though. Most recently, the sear-spring had both its legs snap off. I recieved a replacement within a week. Cost me €1 and replaced it myself. I also had issues with the front-sight vibrating loose and drifting to one side. I had to shim the keyway at the end of the barrel to get rid of the play in the front-sight block. It's been more than 6 months and thousands of pellets since the last major breakdown. It performs great and the iron-sights hold a perfect zero. It's more accurate than my 350 Magnum.
I hope you will get your "groove" back shooting more accurate mr. Kevin. I know i am not speaking for myself alone. Anyway, So you keep enjoying airgunning. Besides making these excellent upgrades .👍🏻
Hi Phillip. I know....I need to get back to work on the 95. I promise, I'll get to it one of these days... Time is one commodity that I'm short on. Still, I'll get to it eventually. Thanks as always, my friend.
Disassembling a Diana action is kinda goofy. The sidelever guns are the same. Once cleaned, sleeved and re-lubed though, they can be tack drivers. My 54 Air King is amazing.
I don't know... They All have their quirks ? 🤷🏼♂️ I tend to prefer Weihrauchs, but Obviously I'd never turn away a decent Diana. 😉 But I've only owned 17 Diana's... So far ! 🤔
Awesome video, very helpful indeed. Recently I replaced the breech seal on my D460 with a seal that looks identical to the one in your video. I was told by a Diana staffer that the seal was actually for a mod 48, not a 460 (notice how the replacement seal is visibly thicker than the seal you pulled out). I was warned that not using the correct seal could damage other parts of the rifle, so I went to a lot of trouble to remove the mod 48 seal from my 460 and replace it with the correct seal. I'm wondering if you've noticed any problems using the mod 48 seal in the 460? The mod 48 seal is thicker so it's going to stick out further from its recess in the compression tube, but I'm not sure if that's a good or a bad thing. Thoughts?
Hi Gary. I purchased that seal from ARH, and it was supposed to be a direct replacement for the 460. The gun shoots flawlessly. The seal appears to be perfect.
Excellent video and information as usual . What is your longer term opinion on the Diana 460 magnum & Diana's in general with regards to overall performance & quality ? John, England, UK.
Hi John. The early 460s have a problem shearing cocking lever pivot pins. It seems that they corrected the problem on later models. Diana guns are of very high quality as one would expect from a German manufacturer. If properly cared for, a Diana should last indefinitely. There are thousands of old Dianas still in use today. Excellent guns which perform as they should.
I'm sorry Phil, I though that folks would recognize it. It was a pellet which had been dropped while loading the rifle. It fell into the action and got damaged as the gun was cycled. There were several more pellets mashed into the front of the receiver tube. That gun was purchased as a refurbished rifle. The previous owner must've been careless and never tried to remove the pellets after dropping them into the action. There's a 3/8" slot along the bottom of the tube. Perhaps he assumed that the pellets had found their way out through the slot.
Thanks Peter. I honestly don't know what they're made of. They're available at www.airrifleheadquarters.com/page/page/251327.htm Thanks as always, my friend.
ARH Old School Buttons are a PTFE Polymer laminate. There's a Teflon side and a dry side to glue the buttons on (You can't really glue PTFE) so it's laminated to a secondary material. I've used OSB's religiously for several years now and it's highly unusual for one to actually come loose. This always comes down to proper cleaning and preparation. The red side of the button goes up, and the brown side goes down for glueing. Jim gives thorough directions for their installation on the ARH OSB link and it helps to be set out, clean and organized before you get started, and ALWAYS use good quality cyanoacrylate. I recommend the Loctite Super Glue. 😉👍 My Best WAG on the secondary laminate material is Melamine as it adheres well, and can be applied in thin layers pretty precisely... 🤷🏼♂️
FTR: I tried P.E.T. buttons last year and they simply would not bond worth a Tinker's Cuss... 😠 The ARH OSB's just work too reliably to bother wasting my time trying to save a buck $.$$ 🤷🏼♂️ Lesson Learned ! 😉
I find the HW97 to be a much more refined rifle. However, the 460 is a great gun in its own class. For me, the 97 is more accurate. Thanks for watching, my friend.
Second That ! 😃👍 My 350M had Phenomenal Accuracy and went over 219,000 rounds before it's 1st. Rebuild ! I may have been a wee bit late on the rebuild ? 🤔 But, Hey... 🤷🏼♂️ To be fair I'm not particularly fond of sliding breach rifles though. 😕
RE: "How long the ARH OSB's last" ? I recently pulled down one of my HW50M's to replace a piston seal. The build was 4 years old and the buttons still looked Daisy fresh. 😉👌 HTH. 🤷🏼♂️
To be clear... I've been using the OSB's since early to mid 2000's. I had a few buttons pop off initially. Always on insert... Most probably due to too tight a fit or poor prep work, and Cheap glue ? 🤷🏼♂️ After that I would double check and re-check for awhile but never experienced any issues after that. Basically all the Super Glue is working against is friction and shear force. But if the glue takes a solid set once inserted the buttons are pretty much pinned down between the walls of the receiver and piston, so if properly sized (not Too Tight) a fit and coated with moly for a Good Wet running edge, shear force just really isn't an issue... 🤷🏼♂️ You do want to hone and burnish the receiver tube to a decent finish if it's been Galled in the past, but that should be common sense ? 🤔 The main point to buttoning a piston is to "Prevent Galling" of the Piston and Reciever tube. The Secondary benefits are smoother cocking and shot cycle, buffering metal to metal contact and subsequently lowering noise, and vibration. If done at the factory or built into a NEW Action the internals are pretty much protected from any significant wear or galling and should last indefinitely ? 😉 It's fair to remember in all cases that the buttons are never the less sacrificial. It's the action itself you are protecting. We just merely enjoy the other side effects of metal to metal isolation! 😃👍
Galling predominantly occurs on the cocking stroke as the cocking lever tends to lift the top edge of the piston skirt up against the Reciever tube with some significant force. Over time the metal to metal contact tends to grate and gall both the Reciever and the piston. 🤓 The most important button (And the one you want the most meat on) is TDC riding right against the roof of the Reciever !!! 😉👍 I'm sure we'd all love to have milled pistons and pressed in buttons... But Honestly even pressed buttons can pop out so it's not always perfect. A piston wall is only so thick and it's not exactly a real deep pocket to set in ! 🤷🏼♂️ I've had excellent results with the ARH Old School Buttons going on two decades now. 😌
Good morning. I would like to do the same modification of the piston, with anti-friction buttons. But my gamo piston is split, so what should I pay attention to? Any advice please?. Thanks in advance
Do you think I can create a ring all around the piston. I have ultra strong Teflon tape of only 0.10mm, so the piston skirt will go from 24.70mm diameter to 24.90mm, so it should be able to fit the cylinder perfectly?! By making a 4mm strip I could go around the edge of the skirt passing between the slit and the small rectangle?. Teflon already has a glue but I could add a powerful super glue. When do you think ?. THANKS
@nicorallysport Any chance that you can send pics of the piston? I'm not familiar with the internals or your rifle. Send them to my email, and I'll see if I can be of any help. pelletsandpistons@gmail.com
@Peter Agostini jdcap26 tips an repairs and hobbies my compressor clamps on the barrel. Some others, the receiver. Just as long as the action can't kick out.
Do wish you'd stop using the edge of desk to compress the main spring. Desk edge looks rounded & one day it's going to slip under compression & it's not going to be pretty. Also, not a good idea to use the trigger block when compressing the spring. I love watching you work on guns & usually you are careful but that table edge technique is dangerous & trust me it will hurt if it slips.
Sorry if I make you nervous, my friend. I typically only use the edge of the workbench on guns which are not under too much preload. For the rest, I use the spring compressor. The trigger housing, in this case, is what must be pressed into place when reassembling the rifle. I don't believe that there's a better way to accomplish the task. I appreciate your concern, but I assure you, I'm very careful. Thanks as always.
@@razor1962 Thank you for taking the comment in the manner it wax intended. I often compress springs in the same way, but I always ensure there is no way the end plug can slip. It happened to a friend of mine. He was fitting the mainspring & end plug, he had the gun between his thighs & under pressure the gun slipped & the end plug hit him between the legs, yes, exactly where you think. Luckily it only made him feel sick for a while & rolled around on the garage floor. Seeing you use the end of that bench makes me wince. Great channel though, I've subscribed. 👍
50 Caliber. Ouch!!!! Your friend was lucky in a way...that could've gone worse. Sorry if I make you wince. Thanks so much for subscribing. Welcome aboard, my friend.
Ya' know something, Armando....I don't put the time and effort into making this content with the hopes that someone will start looking for things to nit pick at. I have compressed air, but it's in no way necessary for this type of work. I've been at this for 4 decades. I'm hardly a "rooky". Like my Mom always said, "if you haven't got anything nice to say, don't say anything at all."
FTR: Blowing and redistributing abrasive and metal particles around a Gunsmithing Bench is often a BAD Idea. 🤦🏼♂️ They're just going to land on the closest oiled metal and bluing... 🤷🏼♂️ This is exactly why you rinse and wipe parts with 91% Isopropyl or Acetone ! 😉👍 Just Sayin... 😇
You're like the Bob Ross of Springers! So enjoyable.
Well said. Its very relaxing watching his video's. Maybe because another is working haha no ,all jokes aside. It is as informative as relaxing.
Love these video's
The 460 has always been on my shortlist for the next underlever. It was actually my first choice when searching for a quality underlever, I couldn't find one so I went with the more expensive Weihrauch HW97KT Blackline .22. Glad I did! But still looking for a 460!
You made the right choice, my friend, given a choice between the two rifles. However, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend a 460, especially in .22 caliber.
Very bery detailed task totally dismantled replaced and repaired and even the spring from your own stock put its place wow. Total makeover and functional as new BRAVO well done indeed.❤
Thanks so much, my friend. So glad to know that you enjoyed the video.
A thorough and educational video showcasing the ins and outs of a stunning air rifle!
Thanks, Richard.
my 460 soon needs an overhaul so this video came as called. The hidden screw would probably have cost me a lot of time, which I can now save. Thanks for the detailed explanation !!!
My pleasure. Thanks for watching, my friend.
Got one in .22 and a Diana /Mauser 98 in .177, beautiful video pleasure to watch! Thx for sharing!
Thanks so much for watching, my friend
Bought a Diana 460 Magnum today!
Thx for the video...need to clean the rifle before using 😀
// Tom
Enjoy that new rifle, Tom. Congratulations.
One of the best instructional video I have seen.
Thanks, Norman. Much appreciated, my friend.
Wow, your knowledge and skills are on another level my friend, thankyou for such an informative video and making it easy to follow.
Thanks, Wayne. I'm just learning as I go and taking folks along for the ride. I sincerely appreciate your viewership.
Thank you so much for this video. It’s just what I was looking for. 😊
Thanks, Jim. I'm thrilled to hear that you found the video helpful.
Nice bit of work, and a great shot.
Thanks Iwan!!!
A very good air rifle. Especially if you have some larger pests wandering through your yard.
It would certainly be up for the task. Thanks as always, David.
Great instructional video, Kevin. Another leason I have learned... Keep up the great work.
Thanks John! Getting ready to start on the Marlboro Shoot video. Thanks for watching, my friend.
I have a Diana 460 magnum in 0.177 cal too..I replaced my Original Spring with a G Smith model 27 spring and replaced the Spring guide rod with a metal one .. nowadays the 460 magnum is crazy accurate and shoot at very high velocities even with pellets upto 10 grains..😊
Thanks for your informative videos upload 👍
Only drawback is that.though the 460 Magnum is quite a handsome rifle it is very heavy 😅
Thanks JL. The 460 Mag is a powerful rifle. My friend has a custom spring for his rifle that I'll be installing in another video. The results will surprise you. Stay tuned.
Thanks for watching, my friend.
As always i said , your job is excellent.
Thanks very much, my friend.
Enjoyed the vid, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching, Shane.
Really good repair enjoyed watching it 👍👍
Thanks very much, as always, my friend.
So happy to have found your channel, love the videos, very informative, love the tear downs, learnt loads 👍🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
Thanks so much CJ. I'm glad to know that you're enjoying the channel.
Very good job on that 460.🙂👍
Thank you, my friend.
Great video! Thank you for sharing. I have a 460 mag, too, and I love it.
Thanks Gibster! Congrats on an awesome rifle.
Another good instructional video, Kevin! Love the bell ringing at the videos end! I hung a large heavy steel frying pan at my shooting range. Makes a hell'va ding when I hit it. Thanks for the inspiration! ScottinPa.
Thanks Scott. A frying pan, huh? I'll bet it's loud.😁
Nice ! 😉👍 20.6 fpe with an extreme spread of 4 fps is Excellent... 👌
I thought so. I was impressed.
@@razor1962 What does the shot cycle compare to ? 🤔
@Marc Myers My Feinwerkbau Sport. A decent jolt but not obnoxious.
Hey, would you do me a favor and answer Peter's question about what the buttons are made of again? I deleted your comment instead of mine by mistake. Sorry about that.
Very good information 👌
Thanks
Thanks for watching, my friend.
Hi Kevin! Max. 9 fps difference is good and 20,6 ft lbs is more than enough. Great job my friend 👍
I agree Ron and that spread was actually an astounding, 4 fps. Quite impressive from a magnum springer. Thanks as always, my friend.
Very informative video. I own a K98 in .22 (20fpe). Had my share of issues with it in the beginning due to parts breakages, but they're all ironed out now. Wouldn't want to trade it for the world nowadays.
Glad that you were able to get your rifle straightened out. I've heard of a few issues ( mainly the cocking lever pivot pin ) with the early 460 platform. It seems that these issues were corrected on later production guns. Thanks for watching.
I have a K98 Diana .177 which has a 460 power plant. It malfunctioned the second time I shot it. Ended up being a broken hinge pin (part #15 in the breakdown) it is a common part failure. Installed a Vortek PG4 kit while it was apart. I enjoy the rifle but the new Diana's do not seem to be up to the standards of years past. Good video.
Word around the forums is that the later 460s had a stronger pin. Evidently, the problem was corrected by the time that they assembled mine. Sadly, there aren't many things that are built as well as they used to be.
Thanks so much for watching, my friend.
My .22 K98 has been sent back twice within the first 4 months of ownership. Once for the hinge-pin also, and once for a mainspring. I had the sear-spring break on me too (scary thing to happen if the gun is cocked and loaded), but was able to replace it myself. I have it for almost a year now and I haven't had any other issues since, and I am very happy with its accuracy and performance. There's a 2018 production date stamped on the reciever tube.
My 350 Magnum (2021 production date on the stock) hasn't had any issues ever since I took it out of the box 6 months ago. Both are shot weekly.
Great video as usual!!! Already waiting for next episode with custom spring...
Thanks Tom. You're in for a surprise with regard to the custom spring outcome. Stay tuned.
Great video, many thanks! I have the Mauser model which I believe is the same system. The cocking linkage shattered and thanks to you I now know how to take the thing apart. Where to get spare parts though, that’s the next conundrum.
The earlier rifles had issues with the cocking pin or it's housing breaking. As far as I know, the newer models have corrected those problems
Unfortunately, I don't know where to direct you for repair parts. You may want to start here...
twchambers.co.uk/airgun-spares/diana-original/mod-470-th/
A quick Google, the Diana is very affordable and available here in the UK.
Looks like a straight forward rifle to work on if a bit fiddly in parts.
Glad it was a simple fix in the end.
Thanks very much and thanks for watching, my friend.
Another cracking video Kevin! always interesting and enjoyable thanks
Thanks David. I'm glad that you enjoyed the video.
That screw holding the cocking lever does look fiddly but Diana guns are high quality rifles should last forever if serviced regularly. Great video mate you're a master gunsmith thanks for sharing your knowledge. One love to all 🇬🇧🇵🇰 Ali
Thanks Ali, but I'm far from a master gunsmith. I'm more of a tinkerer.
You're right about Diana airguns from Germany. They're top quality, heirloom guns. Thanks so much for watching, my friend.
Good job Kevin!
Thanks Nibs!
Hey, Nibs ! 👋😉
Nice video thanks 🇳🇱😉👍
Thanks very much, and thanks for watching.
dit ist the smarts man for working on a gun !!!!!
Thanks Koenraad!😊
Inside parts looks same a the side levers 48 52.
They share the 28mm piston and a 100mm piston stroke lenght.
I'm not surprised at all to hear that.
Thanks for watching.
My Diana K98 Mauser is the same as the Diana Magnum 460. I have had MANY mechanical problems with my Diana.
Sorry to hear that Armando.
Is your Mauser a .22 by any chance ? 😃
@@marcmyers1465- .22cal. Broken linkage parts, pellet falling into the compression tube.
I had my share of issues too. Mine is a 2018 production, full power .22 I bought new out of the box last year. Not soon after that the cocking pin sheered off. A month or 3 later the main spring broke. Both were repaired under warranty, with no cost of my own. It took almost a month and a half until I got it back though. Most recently, the sear-spring had both its legs snap off. I recieved a replacement within a week. Cost me €1 and replaced it myself.
I also had issues with the front-sight vibrating loose and drifting to one side. I had to shim the keyway at the end of the barrel to get rid of the play in the front-sight block.
It's been more than 6 months and thousands of pellets since the last major breakdown. It performs great and the iron-sights hold a perfect zero. It's more accurate than my 350 Magnum.
I hope you will get your "groove" back shooting more accurate mr. Kevin.
I know i am not speaking for myself alone. Anyway, So you keep enjoying airgunning. Besides making these excellent upgrades .👍🏻
Thanks very much, my friend.
Nice work!
Thanks very much.
Another cracking video kevin.
Thank you Robert. Always a pleasure.
I subscribed just because you're a lefty like myself
Hi Dave! While I would've preferred to have you subscribe for the awesome content,😉 I'll take my subscribers however I can get 'em.
Another great video. I know where I can find a Remington Summit .177 in nice shape. Have you ever fired one? I think it was from the Crosman family.
Hi Bill. I'm sorry, but I have zero experience with the Summit. Thanks for watching my friend.
Great video as always kevin. When will we see the finished custom stock on your hw95 looking forward to seeing the finished results. ALB Phill
Hi Phillip. I know....I need to get back to work on the 95. I promise, I'll get to it one of these days...
Time is one commodity that I'm short on. Still, I'll get to it eventually.
Thanks as always, my friend.
Disassembling a Diana action is kinda goofy. The sidelever guns are the same. Once cleaned, sleeved and re-lubed though, they can be tack drivers. My 54 Air King is amazing.
Diana guns are of excellent quality. I've got a 54 Air King in my future. Thanks for watching, my friend.
I don't know... They All have their quirks ? 🤷🏼♂️ I tend to prefer Weihrauchs, but Obviously I'd never turn away a decent Diana. 😉 But I've only owned 17 Diana's... So far ! 🤔
Awesome video, very helpful indeed. Recently I replaced the breech seal on my D460 with a seal that looks identical to the one in your video. I was told by a Diana staffer that the seal was actually for a mod 48, not a 460 (notice how the replacement seal is visibly thicker than the seal you pulled out). I was warned that not using the correct seal could damage other parts of the rifle, so I went to a lot of trouble to remove the mod 48 seal from my 460 and replace it with the correct seal. I'm wondering if you've noticed any problems using the mod 48 seal in the 460? The mod 48 seal is thicker so it's going to stick out further from its recess in the compression tube, but I'm not sure if that's a good or a bad thing. Thoughts?
Hi Gary. I purchased that seal from ARH, and it was supposed to be a direct replacement for the 460. The gun shoots flawlessly. The seal appears to be perfect.
❤❤❤❤❤
Excellent video and information as usual .
What is your longer term opinion on the Diana 460 magnum & Diana's in general with regards to overall performance & quality ?
John,
England, UK.
Hi John. The early 460s have a problem shearing cocking lever pivot pins. It seems that they corrected the problem on later models. Diana guns are of very high quality as one would expect from a German manufacturer. If properly cared for, a Diana should last indefinitely. There are thousands of old Dianas still in use today. Excellent guns which perform as they should.
What was the part that fell out, you did not explain that.
I'm sorry Phil, I though that folks would recognize it. It was a pellet which had been dropped while loading the rifle. It fell into the action and got damaged as the gun was cycled. There were several more pellets mashed into the front of the receiver tube. That gun was purchased as a refurbished rifle. The previous owner must've been careless and never tried to remove the pellets after dropping them into the action. There's a 3/8" slot along the bottom of the tube. Perhaps he assumed that the pellets had found their way out through the slot.
Hows that breech seal working, looks like vortek 48 i put one in my diana 430l looks like it wants to come out after a few shots. I enjoy your videos.
The breech seal seems fine. It was a very tight fit. I don't think that it'll fall out. Thanks for watching, my friend.
Great video
Thanks, Peter.
Nice 👍🏻 work Kevin. What are the buttons made out of ? Ty
Thanks Peter. I honestly don't know what they're made of. They're available at www.airrifleheadquarters.com/page/page/251327.htm
Thanks as always, my friend.
ARH Old School Buttons are a PTFE Polymer laminate. There's a Teflon side and a dry side to glue the buttons on (You can't really glue PTFE) so it's laminated to a secondary material.
I've used OSB's religiously for several years now and it's highly unusual for one to actually come loose. This always comes down to proper cleaning and preparation. The red side of the button goes up, and the brown side goes down for glueing. Jim gives thorough directions for their installation on the ARH OSB link and it helps to be set out, clean and organized before you get started, and ALWAYS use good quality cyanoacrylate. I recommend the Loctite Super Glue. 😉👍
My Best WAG on the secondary laminate material is Melamine as it adheres well, and can be applied in thin layers pretty precisely... 🤷🏼♂️
@@marcmyers1465 Thanks Marc!
@@razor1962 De Nada... 😉👍
FTR: I tried P.E.T. buttons last year and they simply would not bond worth a Tinker's Cuss... 😠
The ARH OSB's just work too reliably to bother wasting my time trying to save a buck $.$$ 🤷🏼♂️ Lesson Learned ! 😉
Cual prefieres el 460 o el hw 97 . Saludos.
I find the HW97 to be a much more refined rifle. However, the 460 is a great gun in its own class. For me, the 97 is more accurate.
Thanks for watching, my friend.
👍@@razor1962
I found the RWS 350 better choice!
Thanks, John, and thanks for watching.
Second That ! 😃👍 My 350M had Phenomenal Accuracy and went over 219,000 rounds before it's 1st. Rebuild ! I may have been a wee bit late on the rebuild ? 🤔 But, Hey... 🤷🏼♂️
To be fair I'm not particularly fond of sliding breach rifles though. 😕
What would you charge for a service like this? Also how long did it take?
I don't offer this service, Chris.🤣
It takes about an hour or so. I love you, son.
@@razor1962 If they were Family, I'd probably just ask them to "Simonize My Truck" ! 😁😆😅😂🤣🤣
RE: "How long the ARH OSB's last" ? I recently pulled down one of my HW50M's to replace a piston seal. The build was 4 years old and the buttons still looked Daisy fresh. 😉👌 HTH. 🤷🏼♂️
I'll be using them again in the near future. Very simple to install. I'm picking up a D 34, TO6 in .22 cal. today. It's gonna get the full treatment.
@@razor1962 SWEET !!! 😃👍 WELL PLAYED, Sir ! 🎩
To be clear... I've been using the OSB's since early to mid 2000's. I had a few buttons pop off initially. Always on insert... Most probably due to too tight a fit or poor prep work, and Cheap glue ? 🤷🏼♂️ After that I would double check and re-check for awhile but never experienced any issues after that. Basically all the Super Glue is working against is friction and shear force. But if the glue takes a solid set once inserted the buttons are pretty much pinned down between the walls of the receiver and piston, so if properly sized (not Too Tight) a fit and coated with moly for a Good Wet running edge, shear force just really isn't an issue... 🤷🏼♂️
You do want to hone and burnish the receiver tube to a decent finish if it's been Galled in the past, but that should be common sense ? 🤔
The main point to buttoning a piston is to "Prevent Galling" of the Piston and Reciever tube. The Secondary benefits are smoother cocking and shot cycle, buffering metal to metal contact and subsequently lowering noise, and vibration. If done at the factory or built into a NEW Action the internals are pretty much protected from any significant wear or galling and should last indefinitely ? 😉
It's fair to remember in all cases that the buttons are never the less sacrificial. It's the action itself you are protecting. We just merely enjoy the other side effects of metal to metal isolation! 😃👍
Galling predominantly occurs on the cocking stroke as the cocking lever tends to lift the top edge of the piston skirt up against the Reciever tube with some significant force. Over time the metal to metal contact tends to grate and gall both the Reciever and the piston. 🤓 The most important button (And the one you want the most meat on) is TDC riding right against the roof of the Reciever !!! 😉👍
I'm sure we'd all love to have milled pistons and pressed in buttons... But Honestly even pressed buttons can pop out so it's not always perfect. A piston wall is only so thick and it's not exactly a real deep pocket to set in ! 🤷🏼♂️ I've had excellent results with the ARH Old School Buttons going on two decades now. 😌
Good morning. I would like to do the same modification of the piston, with anti-friction buttons. But my gamo piston is split, so what should I pay attention to? Any advice please?. Thanks in advance
Do you think I can create a ring all around the piston. I have ultra strong Teflon tape of only 0.10mm, so the piston skirt will go from 24.70mm diameter to 24.90mm, so it should be able to fit the cylinder perfectly?! By making a 4mm strip I could go around the edge of the skirt passing between the slit and the small rectangle?. Teflon already has a glue but I could add a powerful super glue. When do you think ?. THANKS
@nicorallysport Any chance that you can send pics of the piston? I'm not familiar with the internals or your rifle. Send them to my email, and I'll see if I can be of any help.
pelletsandpistons@gmail.com
Kevin what is the length of the compression tool your brother made for you ? Ty
40". The crank adds another 9" to the overall length.
@@razor1962 Thank you Kevin , I heard you could use a long clamp but many guys say it's dangerous ?
It's best to have some way to clamp the action so that it can't kick out while the spring is under tension.
@@razor1962 so clamp the action down as well , TY
@Peter Agostini jdcap26 tips an repairs and hobbies my compressor clamps on the barrel. Some others, the receiver. Just as long as the action can't kick out.
I love this gun please gift me a .177 diana❤
😂😂😂 Thanks for watching, my friend.
Well heck... Where were you last week, Man ? I had to set a Fine Old HW97k out on the curb for recycle... 🤷🏼♂️
🐶🙂👍👋🏻
Do wish you'd stop using the edge of desk to compress the main spring.
Desk edge looks rounded & one day it's going to slip under compression & it's not going to be pretty. Also, not a good idea to use the trigger block when compressing the spring.
I love watching you work on guns & usually you are careful but that table edge technique is dangerous & trust me it will hurt if it slips.
Sorry if I make you nervous, my friend. I typically only use the edge of the workbench on guns which are not under too much preload. For the rest, I use the spring compressor. The trigger housing, in this case, is what must be pressed into place when reassembling the rifle. I don't believe that there's a better way to accomplish the task. I appreciate your concern, but I assure you, I'm very careful. Thanks as always.
@@razor1962
Thank you for taking the comment in the manner it wax intended.
I often compress springs in the same way, but I always ensure there is no way the end plug can slip.
It happened to a friend of mine. He was fitting the mainspring & end plug, he had the gun between his thighs & under pressure the gun slipped & the end plug hit him between the legs, yes, exactly where you think.
Luckily it only made him feel sick for a while & rolled around on the garage floor.
Seeing you use the end of that bench makes me wince.
Great channel though, I've subscribed. 👍
50 Caliber. Ouch!!!! Your friend was lucky in a way...that could've gone worse. Sorry if I make you wince.
Thanks so much for subscribing. Welcome aboard, my friend.
Without compressed air to blow off the parts, you are still a rookie.
Ya' know something, Armando....I don't put the time and effort into making this content with the hopes that someone will start looking for things to nit pick at. I have compressed air, but it's in no way necessary for this type of work. I've been at this for 4 decades. I'm hardly a "rooky". Like my Mom always said, "if you haven't got anything nice to say, don't say anything at all."
Type slower... I'm writing ✍️ this down ! 😉👍
FTR: Blowing and redistributing abrasive and metal particles around a Gunsmithing Bench is often a BAD Idea. 🤦🏼♂️ They're just going to land on the closest oiled metal and bluing... 🤷🏼♂️
This is exactly why you rinse and wipe parts with 91% Isopropyl or Acetone ! 😉👍
Just Sayin... 😇