I cannot tell you how much I pray to win the lottery just so I can buy one of your vans. It is my dream for retirement. The most exquisite work I’ve ever ever seen. I will keep praying. Cheers to you.
I never expected I would but I think I actually like this hybrid cab better than your former, all aluminum. It adds a warmth to the cabin where all aluminum tends to feel a bit institutional. You and your team are the best, still.
The shower teak mat is a work of art! You forgot to mention you use stainless steel screws. Of course! What a beauty. Nice to see a wood framed cabinet but still with the aluminum profile edging. Looks lovely and less pricey than all that 80/20. A big advantage is time savings with the CNC cut sections. Now that you have a regular crew, it is easier to cut that out in wood, err... I meant Spanish plywood, sheesh! Nothing but the best. I loved the tip about the rounded out scoop holes. Just like airplane windows, wow!! Now I get why they are always rounded. Awesome work, George!! You are simply THE BEST!!! Sending you good thoughts from CA.🤩🤩🤩
I'm not leaving 8020. It will still be used in fridge modules and beds, benches, etc. But the galley is an 8020 monstrosity that, until it is locked into the van, has to be re-squared every time we move it.
@HumbleRoad love what you do, how you do it. NJOA toured my van and we talked about you. I left nursing to build vans. You are such an inspiration. Thank you for all you do.
A little tip here from a woodworker of 53 years. I would strongly suggest elongating your holes of the support members. You have not allowed for any expansion and contraction, and I will just about guarantee something's gonna split, especially given these pieces are exposed to extremes in heat and moisture. An elongated hole will allow for a little bit of movement, and no glue for the support pieces! BAD! That board needs to freely expand and contract. Work with the material not against it! I can't tell you how many tabletops I repaired because the skirting was screwed to the solid wood tabletop. Always have to factor in the materials you're working with, and solid wood need to be able to expand and contract. Personally, since you have a CNC, I would just make up a solid top with equal width strips and then use the CNC to cut through the board to make the grooves. Much better use of your time IMO. And the DeWalt planers are notorious for sniping about 4" at the beginning and end of the boards. A thickness sanding would be better here. I typically make my boards longer than needed to allow for the "snipe" but it's a big waste of wood to allow for this. You are just cleaning the surface and the thickness sander is the better machine to use here. Planers are for removing a lot of wood quickly, and sanders are better for cleanup and small wood removal.
Good morning, George, as I wave to you from Houston,Tx as always! Just sitting here enjoying one more of the many great marvels of y’all’s never ending ingenious workmanship! Have a blessed day and I’ll see you in the next video! ~Jim~
early airplanes had problems with the windows blowing out at altitude. they finally figured out that the square windows would concentrate stress in the corners and fail. rounded corners distribute the stresses.
@@HumbleRoad Since it's a problem for you, imagine common folks like us. Would you be interested in taking really small jobs for Garnica plywood cabinets (smaller than 12 inches cubes), shipped as flat-packs... to Canada? edit: never mind, I would need to use their Garnica Ultralight Duraply HPL for even more weight savings.
They can be out of square. The added strength of the joint is usually more a benefit when used for shelving units. Instead of a few nails the entire width of the shelf is sitting on the edge of the groove. Glue and finishing nails are normally used as well.
George I was thinking about how Pleasure-Way builds their cabinets. Can you comment on that compared to your method? Some other van and RV companies don't finish the plywood on the inside. I think there shouldn't be any unfinished plywood. Could be a clear coat or paint.
You must always maintain an odd number of layers with plywood. So if you have a 9 ply sheet, and you add a finish to one side, you must add a finish to the other side. We use double sided maple finish plywood. And one more tip; you have to sand away the finish where you want the glue.
@@HumbleRoad Thank you for your reply. I have noticed the clear finish on your plywood. I'm guessing it's a cost factor for the RV manufacturers. It doesn't look good when a UA-cam reviewer opens a a drawer and the inside cabinet is raw plywood. I have seen this in all types of RV'S. Especially under the bed storage area.
Nice construction! Makes me really want to CNC my next build. Have you tried making dados for the drawer glides to sit in? It would make the fitment even easier, and permit slightly wider drawers. I've never seen it done, but your galley construction gave me the idea.
I just subscribed, so you know I like you. But as an engineer I just want to correct one little thing I have heard you say in a couple of videos. The round corners you use in your cut outs avoid stress concentration points that can cause failure. Really nothing to do with roman arches. Arches work because vertical loads put the arche into compression and very heavy loads can be supported. Stress concentration avoidance and putting members into compression are completely different things in engineering. But keep up the good work. I am just discovering aluminum extrusions and how to use them for clean design. Thanks for the education.
I appreciate your clarification AND your new sub, welcome to Humble Road! We need smart minds like yours. Brace yourself, I'm about to reference the Roman aqueducts in an upcoming segment on water systems in a van ! 😊
Just curious, George, why not do the teak glue-up and then put on the CNC to cut the slots? Doesn't matter but seems like it would be faster. Love your work and love how you explain what you're doing and why along the way.
The teak hardwood would need to be glued together in strips of whatever with you choose. At that point, it would be nearly impossible to have all your drain hole cutouts perfectly lined up with those glue seams.
"Georgios" work George & Team. Question please sir. You produced a video a few years ago showing how you joined the ceiling T&G boards together using some type of material or tape. I must have watched all of your videos at least 3 times and I cannot for the life of me find that section of video. Could you by chance point me to the right video please? It was a white T&G ceiling in sections held up by white stringers. I just wanted to see what you used to keep those individual boards together while you secured them into place. Thank you in advance and when I finish my DIY Build, I'm going to drive to your town and show you how your influence helped at least one other : )
Are used painters, canvas, tarp material I put the tongue and groove panels together, backside facing up. I cut the canvas to fit just short of the edges use a paint roller and roll the glue onto the tongue and groove boards and the canvas glue the canvas to the back of the tongue and groove boards as one big panel assembly, it’s like a rolltop desk
The teak hardwood would have to be glued together in strips of whatever width you choose. Then when you start cutting in those ovalized drain holes, you will not be able to line them up with the glue lines and it would look like a mess.
We thought about that. We would have to glue up the solid teak and then make the drain cuts on the CNC. Invariably, due to the inconsistency in the wood, the drain holes would not line up with the glue lines. And you shouldn't use plywood for a shower floor.
I was wondering when the cost and time of 80/20 would, from a businesses sense, persuade the transition to ply. Nothing wrong with it....just makes sense. However, when you transition to 1by and lauan...your transition to the dark side will be complete.
Is the corner 8020 for aesthetics only? I suppose I would weigh the cost of the 8020 versus a nice piece of rounded-over wood in the corner since you're gluing it in anyway. The spline in the removable panel for easy access makes sense though since it's more functional.
With all the doors and drawers on this galley closed, it looks like any other galley we've built. Only the internal superstructure has changed. 8020 will always be a part of my designs. So, yes, the 8020 frame around the galley integrates it into the rest of the esthetic in the van.
What about laying up all the strips of teak like you were making a cutting board an putting it on the CNC to cut the slots, then while it is doing its cutting you can be working on another part of the build. You could use a large diameter router bit to just cut a straight line slot the width required or used a very small diameter bit and cut the perimeter of the slot and have a small waste piece in the center. I know teak is expensive and using the forstner bit wastes less wood, but it is also very time consuming to stand at the drill press and make all those tiny piece, as we all know time is money.
We considered that approach. But due to the inconsistencies in the teak, you could not perfectly aline all those slot holes along and within the glue lines.
In the teak floor, why aren’t you just gluing up the long pieces and then just running it through the CNC. Is it less expensive to save on material than the man-hours involved in making the small pieces?
I cannot tell you how much I pray to win the lottery just so I can buy one of your vans. It is my dream for retirement. The most exquisite work I’ve ever ever seen. I will keep praying. Cheers to you.
I'll pray with you 😇
@@HumbleRoad… me too! 🙏
It's faster to date and marry a rich man.
Google Coach Paula Grooms
You're a master of your craft. Ya'll make some beautiful work.
That is some special plywood George. All the way from Spain. Won’t find that quality at the Home Depot ! Than you for splaining about the splining !
I never expected I would but I think I actually like this hybrid cab better than your former, all aluminum. It adds a warmth to the cabin where all aluminum tends to feel a bit institutional. You and your team are the best, still.
Good job as usual George! 👍 I always appreciate your suggestions 👍👏👏👏
My pleasure!
that shower pan floor is a work of art
I want one of those! 😊
The shower teak mat is a work of art! You forgot to mention you use stainless steel screws. Of course! What a beauty.
Nice to see a wood framed cabinet but still with the aluminum profile edging. Looks lovely and less pricey than all that 80/20. A big advantage is time savings with the CNC cut sections. Now that you have a regular crew, it is easier to cut that out in wood, err... I meant Spanish plywood, sheesh! Nothing but the best.
I loved the tip about the rounded out scoop holes. Just like airplane windows, wow!! Now I get why they are always rounded.
Awesome work, George!! You are simply THE BEST!!! Sending you good thoughts from CA.🤩🤩🤩
i just tore apart a 30 year old Custom Coach that was built with plywood splines throughout. It was one of the hardest teardowns I've done
Such amazing work. love seeing the process
I love clean look of the galley and the teak shower pan is artful. Enjoyed watching the process.
excited to see the use of wood again. I totally agree with the strength and weight.
I'm not leaving 8020. It will still be used in fridge modules and beds, benches, etc. But the galley is an 8020 monstrosity that, until it is locked into the van, has to be re-squared every time we move it.
@HumbleRoad love what you do, how you do it. NJOA toured my van and we talked about you. I left nursing to build vans. You are such an inspiration. Thank you for all you do.
If you are ever in New Jersey, come spend time at my shop.
George is the patient, good-humored father figure every mechanically challenged gen Xer needs…😊
Informative and FUNNY. Smacking the camera like a flick to the forehead to get our attention. ❤️😂
You noticed! 🙏
Good Morning George
Always Enjoy Your Sunday Morning Humble Road Videos ..
Good morning!
A little tip here from a woodworker of 53 years. I would strongly suggest elongating your holes of the support members. You have not allowed for any expansion and contraction, and I will just about guarantee something's gonna split, especially given these pieces are exposed to extremes in heat and moisture. An elongated hole will allow for a little bit of movement, and no glue for the support pieces! BAD! That board needs to freely expand and contract. Work with the material not against it! I can't tell you how many tabletops I repaired because the skirting was screwed to the solid wood tabletop. Always have to factor in the materials you're working with, and solid wood need to be able to expand and contract. Personally, since you have a CNC, I would just make up a solid top with equal width strips and then use the CNC to cut through the board to make the grooves. Much better use of your time IMO. And the DeWalt planers are notorious for sniping about 4" at the beginning and end of the boards. A thickness sanding would be better here. I typically make my boards longer than needed to allow for the "snipe" but it's a big waste of wood to allow for this. You are just cleaning the surface and the thickness sander is the better machine to use here. Planers are for removing a lot of wood quickly, and sanders are better for cleanup and small wood removal.
Thank you for your suggestions.Coming from 53 years of experience, it is truly appreciated.
Really looking forward to seeing the final finished production design on the Maxi-Me's. Thanks George...
These videos should shown as tutorial in art classes.
THATS A great design George, I like it 👍
Very nice
Thank you again for that great work.
My pleasure!
Stunning work as usual, Thank you Mr George I enjoyed that😉
Glad you enjoyed it
George, you and your team continue to make amazing cabinets and simple designs that will last a lifetime.
Everything you build is amazing
Good morning, George, as I wave to you from Houston,Tx as always! Just sitting here enjoying one more of the many great marvels of y’all’s never ending ingenious workmanship! Have a blessed day and I’ll see you in the next video! ~Jim~
Enjoy your Sunday, Jim!
Thanks George for sharing. That was an abrupt end :) Like 329
Yes it was. It was 12:30am when I finished and I forgot to add my closing frame!
wow!
Love the teak shower floor. Ever get a request for a nice teak shower seat that folds?
It is the craftsmanship of these things, especially the shower floor, that set you guys apart. Awesome teamwork and beautiful outcomes!
Thanks so much!
You are always impressive
You are so brilliant. Love learning all your building 101 info.
Thanks so much!
George is a brilliant man, that’s all I can say!❤
early airplanes had problems with the windows blowing out at altitude. they finally figured out that the square windows would concentrate stress in the corners and fail. rounded corners distribute the stresses.
An Italian engineer, no doubt. 😊
I was hoping for you to continue
Love this
George, I would like to meet more of "your" people if they are like you.
😄
I was thinking that same thing as I watched. It would be nice to get a little glimpse of your genius crew. 🙂
I used the garnica panels too. They are quite common to find in Europe ;)
I was thinking why you never used them because they are a gamechanger
I contacted Garnica directly. They said their minimum order is $50,000 per month. It took me a while to find a reliable local distributor.
Wow 😮… here you can find sheets at local home depot. Btw I was thinking you were using the sandwich plates which are amazing. So light and strong
Still looking for those...
@@HumbleRoad Since it's a problem for you, imagine common folks like us. Would you be interested in taking really small jobs for Garnica plywood cabinets (smaller than 12 inches cubes), shipped as flat-packs... to Canada?
edit: never mind, I would need to use their Garnica Ultralight Duraply HPL for even more weight savings.
They can be out of square. The added strength of the joint is usually more a benefit when used for shelving units. Instead of a few nails the entire width of the shelf is sitting on the edge of the groove. Glue and finishing nails are normally used as well.
Love it
George I was thinking about how Pleasure-Way builds their cabinets. Can you comment on that compared to your method? Some other van and RV companies don't finish the plywood on the inside. I think there shouldn't be any unfinished plywood. Could be a clear coat or paint.
You must always maintain an odd number of layers with plywood. So if you have a 9 ply sheet, and you add a finish to one side, you must add a finish to the other side. We use double sided maple finish plywood. And one more tip; you have to sand away the finish where you want the glue.
@@HumbleRoad Thank you for your reply. I have noticed the clear finish on your plywood. I'm guessing it's a cost factor for the RV manufacturers. It doesn't look good when a UA-cam reviewer opens a a drawer and the inside cabinet is raw plywood. I have seen this in all types of RV'S. Especially under the bed storage area.
We tend to the details, no matter how small.
Nice construction! Makes me really want to CNC my next build. Have you tried making dados for the drawer glides to sit in? It would make the fitment even easier, and permit slightly wider drawers. I've never seen it done, but your galley construction gave me the idea.
Would need to use 3/4" material to accept the drawer glide dado, so not much additional drawer space.
I just subscribed, so you know I like you. But as an engineer I just want to correct one little thing I have heard you say in a couple of videos. The round corners you use in your cut outs avoid stress concentration points that can cause failure. Really nothing to do with roman arches. Arches work because vertical loads put the arche into compression and very heavy loads can be supported. Stress concentration avoidance and putting members into compression are completely different things in engineering. But keep up the good work. I am just discovering aluminum extrusions and how to use them for clean design. Thanks for the education.
I appreciate your clarification AND your new sub, welcome to Humble Road! We need smart minds like yours. Brace yourself, I'm about to reference the Roman aqueducts in an upcoming segment on water systems in a van ! 😊
Just curious, George, why not do the teak glue-up and then put on the CNC to cut the slots? Doesn't matter but seems like it would be faster.
Love your work and love how you explain what you're doing and why along the way.
The teak hardwood would need to be glued together in strips of whatever with you choose. At that point, it would be nearly impossible to have all your drain hole cutouts perfectly lined up with those glue seams.
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
"Georgios" work George & Team. Question please sir. You produced a video a few years ago showing how you joined the ceiling T&G boards together using some type of material or tape. I must have watched all of your videos at least 3 times and I cannot for the life of me find that section of video. Could you by chance point me to the right video please? It was a white T&G ceiling in sections held up by white stringers. I just wanted to see what you used to keep those individual boards together while you secured them into place.
Thank you in advance and when I finish my DIY Build, I'm going to drive to your town and show you how your influence helped at least one other : )
Are used painters, canvas, tarp material I put the tongue and groove panels together, backside facing up. I cut the canvas to fit just short of the edges use a paint roller and roll the glue onto the tongue and groove boards and the canvas glue the canvas to the back of the tongue and groove boards as one big panel assembly, it’s like a rolltop desk
Another excellent video George, thankyou. btw, just curious, what part of Italy are your folk from? Cheers
Naples
@@HumbleRoad Thanks, wonderful heritage. Cheers from Australia
Beautiful work George! What do you seal/protect the walnut/oak/etc wood that you use to make cabinets/drawers/etc? Thank you.
Beautiful work! I’m surprised the shower pan insert isn’t CNC machined as well. Very time consuming with all the small hand cut and assembled pieces.
The teak hardwood would have to be glued together in strips of whatever width you choose. Then when you start cutting in those ovalized drain holes, you will not be able to line them up with the glue lines and it would look like a mess.
George, have you experimented with box joints? Very strong construction due to huge glue surface area, and no need for added reinforcement.
Yes, we use box joints.
for the galley, do you make/install a toe kick?
Yes, for some builds we install a toe kick, others we don't.
Can you build something similar but a little taller. I am 6-4 and currently in a high roof sprinter empty shell. Thanks
Yes we can
Why only glue? We always hear about glue coming apart in other rv's, why not some kind of screw?
I can't speak to other builds, but like I mentioned, the wood fibers will fail before the glue joint.
Wonder if we could save hours of labor by cutting out shower floors with a CNC machine?
We thought about that. We would have to glue up the solid teak and then make the drain cuts on the CNC. Invariably, due to the inconsistency in the wood, the drain holes would not line up with the glue lines. And you shouldn't use plywood for a shower floor.
I was wondering when the cost and time of 80/20 would, from a businesses sense, persuade the transition to ply. Nothing wrong with it....just makes sense. However, when you transition to 1by and lauan...your transition to the dark side will be complete.
Is the corner 8020 for aesthetics only? I suppose I would weigh the cost of the 8020 versus a nice piece of rounded-over wood in the corner since you're gluing it in anyway. The spline in the removable panel for easy access makes sense though since it's more functional.
With all the doors and drawers on this galley closed, it looks like any other galley we've built. Only the internal superstructure has changed. 8020 will always be a part of my designs. So, yes, the 8020 frame around the galley integrates it into the rest of the esthetic in the van.
@@HumbleRoad Makes sense. Probably more susceptible to dings and more resilient as well. So that adds some functionality.
Poor bunny rabbits, sacrificed for the ultimate strength of the galley wood….
No rabbits were harmed in the development of this new galley module.
OK, planned obsolescence which exceeds the life expectancy of the van itself. Perfect design explanation..
@@HumbleRoad Thank you for making my day! :- )
George - why not laminate a panel and then use a router to do the cut outs - did I miss something? - thanks
What about laying up all the strips of teak like you were making a cutting board an putting it on the CNC to cut the slots, then while it is doing its cutting you can be working on another part of the build. You could use a large diameter router bit to just cut a straight line slot the width required or used a very small diameter bit and cut the perimeter of the slot and have a small waste piece in the center. I know teak is expensive and using the forstner bit wastes less wood, but it is also very time consuming to stand at the drill press and make all those tiny piece, as we all know time is money.
We considered that approach. But due to the inconsistencies in the teak, you could not perfectly aline all those slot holes along and within the glue lines.
😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
10:16 dem nails tho 😃
I don't get hired for being manicured! 😉
In the teak floor, why aren’t you just gluing up the long pieces and then just running it through the CNC. Is it less expensive to save on material than the man-hours involved in making the small pieces?
We considered that approach. Due to the inconsistency in the wood, the cut-outs would never all line up on the glue seams.
Hair cut George
George I love your videos but I’m begging you to tell your guys not to wear gloves while using the drill press
Rebates
Rabbets this side of the pond, rebates in the old country. 🙂