Great push block - thanks for sharing. Since this video is aimed at Table saw newbies though, I think it’s better to stick to “best practice” and hand cut the tab off.
Thanks. I went back and forth on how to do the cuts. When I started talking about other ways of doing the cuts, the video just kept getting longer and longer. Maybe you're right, I don't know.
I agree that having your hand over the work instead of behind it is better for delivering downward force. Another (so simple) way to make your style is to simply glue a sub-half inch piece of wood to the bottom of a rectangular piece of scrap. Clamp, wait, done.
Thanks, and I was surprised how much better it feels with my hand over the stock like that. I like the glue idea also - I thought about it, and I would probably have done it, but I didn't want to make a video that dealt with cutting small pieces like that. Not for total newbies, anyway.
Yep! Seems like the simplest things are the best. 😁 I wonder if I put something like rubber underneath it to enhance the grip... Again, this was a ingenious idea. Thanks for sharing. I LOVE your channel!!! Greetings from Switzerland 🇨🇭
Thanks! There's another comment thread here where we're talking about the rubber idea, and it sounds like a good one. I guess great minds think alike. 😄
Elementary. But I really like your videos. Thoughtful, pertinent and always helpful. One of the things that sets your vids apart is that you often think outside the box, coaxing us to do the same. Thank you and... more please.
Thanks! I appreciate it. And yes, of course it's elementary, but I've realized recently that I've been straying from my original goal for this channel, which is of course the newbie woodworker. Obviously I won't make every video this elementary, but I don't want to leave out the complete newbie either. Sorry, that got a little long-winded. 😄
I have been using mty tablesaw to mill some incrdible wormy mapple from a tree in my yard. I thought of you from your 2x6 push block video. I use a plywood push block like tis with a forstner bit circle drilled a quarter way into the side for finger grip. Of course I am making it more complicated. As usual you will be getting a youtube Oscar for cinematography.
After you make one of mine, let me know what you think compared to John's. It's not a competition - I'm just curious to see if you end up thinking the same things I did.
This was a lovely beginner video. I used to watch my Dad in his shop. He taught me a lot of safety stuff, for which I am grateful. This is clear instruction, a cool concept idea for the push tool. I so look forward to more basic beginner information from you. You can begin to relax the nerves in your voice.. YOU DID GREAT!
Thanks! That was exactly what I was striving for. Not sure what you meant about my voice - that's just how I sound. I'm not nervous when I speak, or when I'm shooting videos, although sometimes my hands shake, but they've done that since I was a kid. But I know you meant it in a positive way, so no worries there - I appreciate that you're being supportive! 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Thank you for knowing I meant it in a positive way. My apologies for misunderstanding the auditory cues I picked up on. Am very much looking forward to future videos!! :)
@@TheNewbieWoodworker From my perspective your voice is fun and unique and I think it describes your joy in injecting humor wherever you can, even when we're talking about losing fingers.
For push block 2.0 you could glue some fine sandpaper or old rubber to the part that contacts the wood for a bit more control. If the intent is to use the block in a sacrificial way and go over the blade, I wouldn't do that, however. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the comment. Yeah, I had a bunch of ideas like that, but I really wanted to keep it simple. I have some anti-slide drawer material that would work great also. But in the end, like I said, I went with simple - it's amazing how fast things get out of hand when I start chasing rabbit trails. 😄
A thought about thin material: Maybe flip the block and make a shorter "tab" on the other side. Might have to adjust dimension slightly, so that the unused tab ends up in front of your finger as you use the block. This way, you could have one side for 1/2"+ stock, and one for thinner stock. Of course, you could just make two blocks. It's not like the material expense is high!
Hey Dan Another useful tip. Much appreciated mate. Talking about the lack of rain? Well, not any more Buckets of it. I’m going to make one of those push blocks when I get home.
Also - did you put the plans online for your DIY push block. I guess I can figure it out - looks to be 6 - 7 inches tall by about 8 inches long x 3/4 in plywood. I think you could make removable horizontal strips to fit into it - maybe screwed on with inset screws. I have been doing some work with underlayment plywood because it has a nice finish, but it's very thin - 1/5 in.
These are so easy to make, I don't really see the use of making removable strips. And your dimensions sound about right, and no, I don't have plans online. It's more of a "do it how you like it" sort of thing.
Thanks for the video. It looks pretty easy. I think I will try something like this. Maybe I'll just cut a small piece (about an inch long) and glue it to the bottom corner. Then I won't need to make that long cut. Because I do not have a push block/push stick yet. And I like to count my fingers before I use the saw and then once again afterwards. I appreciate the time you take to explain things and then provide the materials list in a Products section. For a Newbie like myself, this is very helpful.
Only partway through, and I'm already liking the focus on the rotation of the stock, associated with where on the stock you push it. Push a book away from you on a table by the left corner and it'll rotate clockwise (on a saw, into the rip fence). Push the book away from you by the right corner and it'll rotate counter-clockwise (on a saw, into the blade, for a nasty bind or pinch, and possible kickback). It's good you're explaining and illustrating this important principle on some of the forces at play in a table saw cut! Well done!
Thanks! I almost left that part out, because it was kind of off subject, but in the end one of the things I love about watching UA-cam videos is picking up unexpected tips, so I kept it in. And now I'm glad I did. 😄
Love the editing to make it an informative, quick, concise experience for people like me, newbie woodworkers. I also appreciate that you don't assume the viewer knows anything, which is great to refresh some basics for us. Thank you.
Thanks for the comment! I started this channel specifically because of the reason you mentioned - I hated it when people assumed I knew the details. I'll be the first to admit I don't always succeed in covering all the details, but I do try. 😄
Dan The Man, good job sir. I need a push stick like this one and believe I will be making one tonight. Thank you Dan and keep the videos coming, i enjoy watching them along with your happy attitude.
So glad to see someone using a blade guard. Don't think anyone else over there in the USA uses them. in trade school in Australia it was always critical to use one at all times. Teacher always said you can trip over a cord or anything on the floor and decapitate yourself without a guard. I made furniture as a tradesman in a factory for 16 years. Would never even consider using a table saw without proper guard fitted. If a union rep or safety inspector passed by and saw no guard fitted there would be all sorts of trouble. Push sticks were essential as well. I always carried one in the pocket of my overalls in case I ever had to jump on a machine with no push stick in reach. I always had several I cut on a band saw and left them on the machines I used regularly. Other people would use the machines too and push sticks would go missing all the time, I always recut or replaced them when the heel started to wear a bit as it could easily slip off the timber if it was too shallow. Great videos keep em coming.
Thanks, Bruce. I'm a recent convert to blade guards. I hated having to remove them whenever I used a cross-cut sled (which I use a lot). But with my new cross-cut sled design, now I can leave them on. Even with a SawStop, as you said, anything can happen.
may be just take a wooden flat rule which is 2 mm thick cut 2 cm and glue it to that thing? The other thing as you applying some pressure to that thing I still think it is not enough. I think it is required that the hand minimum 25 cm far from the blade. You thing gives 10-14 sm as I see. The thing you did is good, but is it good enough?
I'm just a guy who had an idea and posted a video about it. If you've got a better idea, great! Go for it. Even better, post a video showing how you did it.
I bought two of the Grrrrrrrippers before I bought my table saw. They are cheaper than fingers. It's nice to have the Gripper between your hand and the blade, but it's a teeny bit tricky holding the Gripper in such a way that if the saw decides to throw the wood back, the whole kaboodle will leave your hand and fly past you.
I think the Gripper is a great tool. I own two. The only downside that I see is that you can't use a blade guard, and since I've started using my blade guard, I really like it. As for kickback worries, I understand what you're saying. The only thing I can add is that if you have a problem with kickback, something's wrong. If you're not using a riving knife or something similar, then you need to. If you are and you still get kickback, then your fence and/or blade may be misaligned, or you're just using the saw the wrong way. I mean, every once in a blue moon you could get kickback because of dimensional lumber twisting as the cut releases pent-up tension, but it should almost never happen, really.
Great job. Dan! I especially appreciate your response regarding various ways to provide you with more support. I never want the craft that brings joy, happiness and a good amount of peace into my life to become that which I rely on for my families financial needs. I really like watching your videos - especially hearing the joy your voice reveals you to be having!
A lot of people only use miter saws. And although I'm partial to crosscut sleds, here's my thoughts on most things like this. Keep the idea in the back of your mind. If you come across a situation where you think it would help, then make one. Or when you're watching a video where someone uses a crosscut sled, ask yourself if it would be better/easier/safer/more fun (whatever) than the miter saw. That's my thinking, anyway - why make something if you might not need it? Unless you just want to, of course. 😂 I've got multiple videos on how to build them, which you can see at thenewbiewoodworker.com/videos/crosscut-sleds/. I really should do a video on the subject of "why use a crosscut sled". Maybe one day. Hope that helps. 😄
I have been woodworking off and on for 50 years and often find something new, a well da, or a new or simpler way. But always informative and entertaining TKS
Thanks! It's kind of amazing the things we can learn from watching other people. I have a friend, Matt Jackson whose channel is "Next Level Carpentry", and I keep wishing I could go spend time just watching him work. 😄
Klasse 👍🏼 Vorstellung und sehr gut gemachtes Video 🎥 werde mir auf alle Fälle deine Schiebestöcke nachbauen 👍🏼👍🏼 Danke für das tolle Video von dir 👋🏼👋🏼Wünsche dir noch eine schöne Zeit in deiner Werkstatt und verbleibe mit den besten Grüßen aus Braunis Bastelhütte
At about 4:40, when you pull the wood back, you could push the wood against the blade. It's not touching the blade's teeth in kick-back mode (on the top), but it seems risky.
Yeah, I agree. Although the other argument is that as you reach for the power switch, your attention isn't on the stock and blade, and you're probably more likely to twist the stock somewhat, or possibly even touch the blade! (I did that once, many moons ago.) So in my mind it's almost a toss-up. But like you said, I usually turn my saw off, especially since I can do it with my knee.
Dan, can you do a review on a contour gauge, like the ones where you would need to make cuts around a door frame? I don't see anyone doing practical reviews on these except for people trying to sell them. They sell these contour gauges on amazon. Thanks. Gene in Dallas
I would, but I don't have a use for them right now, and without an actual use case, it wouldn't be a good review. I've discovered that if I'm ever going to know if something is worthwhile, I have to use it for something "real".
This is super helpful. I had my first day with a table saw yesterday and I now think I'm lucky that I didn't get injured. I am renting a Makita saw from Home Depot and the fence wasn't calibrated well and has some wobble to it. I attempted a crosscut by pushing an uneven piece of wood against the fence and the saw didn't come with a push stick (that I could find) so I improvised and used a few small pieces of cedar to push my pieces through. These are at least 3 or 4 mistakes. Your other video about how using the fence for crosscut can be really dangerous is also very helpful.
Lawd, Bernard, that saw sounds like a disaster waiting to happen. My table saw arrived from Santa on Chrissy day, but i've watched enough safety vids to feel i'm doing as much as i can to keep all 10 fingers in their place. Still, if a cut doesnt feel right or safe, i find another way.
@@bernarddouthit4647 my lovely kids bought me the Evolution, which is in the lower price bracket for table saws in Australia but for my first, its perfect for my needs - super happy with the accuracy of the cuts.
I've used a scrap of 2x6, or sometimes a square chunk of plywood, particle board shelving, OSB (whatever junk piece I have handy) for years as a push block. Nice to see this concept get some visibility, and you explain it perfectly, as usual! For the heel, I don't go to the trouble of cutting it into the bottom, since that can get all shredded over time, before the bottom of the block gets ruined and has to be trimmed again. I usually just tack a smaller scrap on the back of the block as a heel (with the screw or nail holding the heel on, high up so as to never contact the blade), then the heel can be re-attached separately, as needed. When attaching the heel, I always lay the side that will be toward the fence flat on the saw, then fasten the heel to the block, so that side's always smooth. I also use the same or smaller thickness for the heel, so it's not wider than the block, just in case I ever need to use it in a situation where I have the rip fence on the left.
Thanks for the comment. Regarding the 2x6, that sounds perfect. I did something similar with some laminated pieces of 3/4" plywood I had left over from another project, and ended up with something about the same dimensions as your 2x6. It definitely feels more solid. I personally wouldn't use screws for the heel, but part of that is because the SawStop doesn't play well with metal - it can trigger the brake. It's a good idea to be able to replace the heel, though. I wonder if there's some sort of tenon joint or something that could be used?
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Or wood glue and a couple hours in a clamp, then trim it off or just glue another on it when a replacement heel is needed? I'm just usually too impatient to wait for glue! :)
@@JusBidniss LOL, yeah, I guess it could just be cut off. Sometimes I miss the obvious. As for being impatient for glue, I suppose you could use CA glue and activator, but it's possible it might not be strong enough. It would be simple enough to test, though.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Or both. Wood glue to hold, and a drop here and there of CA/activator at a couple edges to hold while the other cures. I think I'm overthinking this.... lol Appreciate ya, brother. Again, good content, as always!
I'm not sure if this will work for 3/4 ply but if you want a thicker push stick, cut out a small section on the top back of the stick or block. Find some dowel and drill a hole thru whats left of the section that you just cut out just slightly bigger then the dowel so it will slid thru easily , and use the dowel which will self adjust to the thickness of what ever you are cutting for the pusher. You can make what ever kind of collar you want and press the dowel into it so the dowel doesn't fall out after the cut, now you have a self adjusting push stick or block
@@graememcgregor8407 The idea is to use a dowel for the rear heal, which sits in a hole all the way through the push block. Then the dowel can be moved up or down slightly, to match the thickness of the material. At least, that's how I understood his comments.
I read some of the discussions below about different ways of constructing your pushblock. I like the 2x6 idea. I was just cross cutting some end grain pieces today for shims, so I'm thinking, rather than make that difficult cutout -- whatever way you try to make it, it seems a pain to me -- why not just make the pushblock out of two pieces? Instead of having a tiny shoe to attach some way ( as talked about below), can I go ahead and screw a slightly taller second piece of end-grain 2x6 to the back edge? (Maybe use a couple of horizontal screws well out of blade reach?) Or use dowels. Nice to have the "shoe" be replaceable. As I am trying to think of how deep to make the shoe, I guess you could get fancy and have a vertically sliding back end. (I guess I need to adjust the height of the shoe portion for different stock? How much, I wonder? Not enough experience yet! I do have some 1/8" ply... Anyway, I like the push block. Your oak one looks nice. :) Thanks for going to the trouble. As a newbie with the table saw, I would feel pretty safe with your pushblock and had been thinking of making something. We bought a Gripper and it's really helpful, but just ran into a case today where it's not ideal; somehow it feels safer to have something wider and substantial that keeps my hands further away from the blade.
Personally, I don't like the idea of screws. But any other method is fine. As for height of the heel, it doesn't really matter. This isn't rocket science. The best thing about woodworking is that you can experiment and see what you like the best. So try out your ideas, and see what you like! 😄And thanks for the nice comments.
Check out Jay Bates' push block on UA-cam made from a 2×6. That's what I use. Easy to make and very safe. I also use screws horizontally on a replaceable heel, well out of the way of any blade height that wilil never come close to the screws. Be safe!
TY for the help. Will CA glue and activator work for gluing the shoe on, or will the pressure it is subjected to cause the shoe to pop off? (I have been seeing jigs put together with CA glue without screws and that it holds fine for temporary jigs -- but this push block might be different? ) I need to get out today and make a push block that fits our current job better than the gripper, so I need simple and safe. It does not have to be adjustable though I'll keep it in mind for future. We're ripping just 1/4" off the square edge of some 1/2" thick x 2"" pieces of long bullnose trim that have come from the vendor with a bullnose already cut. The bullnose has to ride against the fence. I think the bottom of a 2x6 will solve that problem by having a bigger bottom surface. ( I noticed it's easy when repositioning the Gripper as the cut moves through to get the Gripper a little angled away from the fence, though we started off all square at the start. That makes me nervous and I am trying to pay attention to anything that makes me uncomfortable, or the little voice that gives warnings, stop, and find a different way before proceeding. ) I will try it out without the saw and see how stable it is through the whole cut. Thanks again for the help!
@@rwind656 I'm not sure about the CA glue. It's certainly subject to coming apart if you "rap" on it, so if you got some severe kickback, it might break. Better safe than sorry, I suppose, and not use it.
TY re: screws and CA glue not being wise. Might as well ask my stupid questions to expose my ignorance... Could a 1/2" dowel (for example) be used as the pushing surface? Drill a vertical hole up into the wood (or two 1/4" dowels/2 holes ) from underneath at the rear of the push block... Replace when worn. Could dowels straddle the blade if necessary for a thin cut? Is it dangerous to push on both sides of the blade? ( I am guessing not, because the Gripper straddles the blade. ) TY for helping me understand pushblocks. I do understand I am complicating your design. I guess I don't like the idea of having to make that cutout on the original piece to leave a shoe. I'd rather append something.
always stop saw if your not cutting all way though as sliding work back while blade is spinning is in essence starting a kickback even if youget away with it its potentially v dangerous. narrator even notes its possibly an unwise nove . rememder you will always get away with danerous or questionable actions.........until the first time you dont,then it may be too late. my motto is a stopped saw cant throw anything at you or pull you into it.
@@vogonpoet5860 Thanks, Robert. I normally always turn the saw off first, but I forgot here, so I thought I'd ask people what they thought. Honestly, it felt "wrong" to back it out while it was still running. On the other hand, I remember that one time (a long time ago) I turned a saw off part-way through a cut, and actually stuck my thumb in the blade because I was so focused on turning the saw off. Of course, like an idiot I wasn't using a blade guard, so that could have had something to do with it. 🙄😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker any woodworker who never makesamistake or gets cut is a spectator, most of us just dont get caught on camera. when i first started i turned on my drill press and got a massive bruise where the forgotten chuck key flew out into my chest ,lucky it was on low speed. i used a universal tablesaw blade to rip a 6x2, somehow the end caught in a cutout before reaching the rear teeth and kicked back hard enough to hole a panel door,thankfully i was to one side and hab guard down, uni blade got scrapped, sharpening chisel i cut a finger testing sharpness, i now lightly test like my cutthroat razor on my thumb nail. but these i did out of sight and learned painfull and scary lessons . even experienced workers make mistakes and lose consentration , so much easier for a newbie. if in doubt turn off, but then not as bad as some 'teachers' i have seen,start a saw or sander or even planer, start the dust collector and shout a commentary as they work without respirator,ear protection or safety glasses. i also knew a friend who shutting down for winter decided to wax his bandsaw blade by running the saw, waxing a cloth and pinching the blade fro the back. he got away with it and i lectured him later found out he tried removing wax same way but cloth snagged a tooth and ripped cloth fromhis fingers, luckily justshattered nerves and no physical harm. lesson learned
The problem with a jigsaw is getting the bottom flat enough, but you can certainly try it. You could absolutely do the short cut with a jigsaw. Let me know if it works for you. The only thing you'll waste is a piece or two of wood, right? 😄
Good idea, but I'd prefer a 2x6, because a 2x4 doesn't get my hands far enough away from the blade. And I actually made one like that, except out of 2 pieces of laminated 3/4" plywood I had left around from another project. I'll use it on larger stock. And you're right, it has great control.
Dan, you are the man! I got a kickback when I didn't have my riving knife installed. It hurt like hell and left a bruise that lasted for four months. I change my ways right away after that. I want to say you are one of my favorite creators. You deserve more subscribers than you have. I feel you are a neighbor who can empathize what a newbie goes through.
Because I frequently let these be sacrificial for narrow cuts, I like to cut mine into rectangles and then screw a backing plate on to act as the foot. Just put the screws up high enough that you don't risk hitting the blade. Then I can just cut the bottom flush as needed and screw on a new backing plate. Not as strong as cutting it the way you did, but more convenient to use.
Or make it a square with 4 heels. The additional heels do not need to be a different depth, but can come in handy when other heels eventually get chewed up by going through the blade.
Hi, It looks a lot like my idea, mine is a square and the depth stop is screwed on so that it can be replaced if damaged if you want to get fancy you can make a slot on the depth stop and then it can be adjusted to any depth.
Thanks. No, no other way, other than buying plans, but frankly, that's not necessary. Although I appreciate the fact I make some money from this, I never got into it for the money. So just watch the videos and give some thumbs up, and I'm happy. 😄
I put an almost otherwise useless glue called Go2Glue on the bottom for traction. It is truly non-slip glue. I've put it on knife handles to keep a good grip. That is about all this glue is good for. Got it at HD.
raising the blade that high for a straight cut is mentally unsafe. i made a similar block ( actually 3 different thickness for different thickness cuts). for safest method use hand saw to cut heel. next best use a bandsaw, i would NEVER encourage a newbie or beginner to make those cuts with a blade so high thats almost begging for injury or kickback especially removing a blade guide... i actually went cold. great block though. for thin cuts with guard cut opposite side from fence using pusher fence side to avoid kickback and stand to opposite side from fence to push into fence and be out of fire line incase of kickback
Thanks for your comment. I don't think there's any real concern about kickback. The stock never reaches the rear teeth, and as far as I know, that's really the only place where a raised blade could contribute to kickback. Nothing's perfectly safe, but I don't think this was particularly unsafe. I hope not, anyway.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker any expeienced woodworker will tell you never have the blade more than a tooth higher than the work piece, and even if a newbie doesnt get kickback this time, setting a blade too high by precident is likely come back to bite them. as for removing the blade guard, ask any E&A nurse for their opinion, and any argument "its only once", it only takes "once" to sever fingers. remember were talking newbies here, and if experienced woodworkers like Stumpy Nubbs can get caught out , what chance newdies. even marc spagnola has caught kickback.
@@robira1313 if you think i am mentally unsafe for being concerned over safety around potentially life threatening machines, i hope you keep ice bags to hand for collecting fingers you sever, and as a first responce level trained person here is a possible scenario. woodworker has hand pulled into unguarded or over raised blade, first reaction horror and numdness (first stage shock), panic and seconds after incident, sevear pain and nausea at amount of blood loss, best outcome someone quickly staunches blood flow picks up fingers, gets to hospital , long painfull surgery and rehab , limited movement. worst case , shock and blood loss cause loss of conciousness and bleed out leads to another woodworker making your casket. ALL tools in woodworking can harm, proper safety reduces the chances of hurt or worse. manufacturers fit safety measures for a reason not for sales.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker kickback can be caused anywhere beyond the arbour point if fenceis too tight,angled in or used with feather board, new style multipupose blades with deeper teeth can catch early (a friend bought a new contractor saw with a combi blade in), you should always treat a saw like a big dog, with respect, a little caution, safely and the knowledge it is quite capable of shredding flesh. dont be scared, be safe.
@@vogonpoet5860 Robert - I agree with the reasons you posted these comments. I don't think you're being overly concerned. I own a SawStop for a reason, after all. I'm well aware of what a table saw can do to your hands, fingers, body, etc. I just happen to disagree with some of your points. But I'm not ignoring what you've said. But let's be real for a moment. As for removing the blade guard, there are times it's completely necessary. And let's face it, most people these days don't use one at all. So I think the fact I showed I've started to use a blade guard, and that I actually built a sled that works with a blade guard, will do a lot towards helping some viewers to start using them. Safety is always a concern, and I never say something is completely safe, but come on, this cut isn't going to cause kickback. It just isn't. The fence would have to be way out of alignment for this to happen, and if it's that much out of alignment, kickback will happen eventually no matter what kind of cut they make. In this situation, with the hand where it is, kickback would almost surely push the hand away from the blade, so the height of the blade is irrelevant, as far as kickback is concerned. I completely agree that the blade should normally be raised only as high as needed. But you're being disingenuous by saying that "any experienced woodworker" would tell you that. There are plenty of experienced woodworkers who claim a blade cuts better when it's raised all the way up. I don't agree with them, of course, but my point is that not everyone would agree with you. The bottom line is, yes, the table saw is dangerous, and yes, we should treat it like a wild animal that can strike at any moment. I just don't think what I've shown in this video is inherently unsafe. I will grant you that I could have said not to raise the blade this high for other cuts. But you can't always cover everything, no matter how hard you try. If you think you can, try making some videos, and see how long they get when you start focusing on every possible misinterpretation. And even then, you'll miss something.
Love the fact you talk the newbie language 😂 thanks for such awesome videos!
Thanks. I speak newbie. 😂
Great push block - thanks for sharing. Since this video is aimed at Table saw newbies though, I think it’s better to stick to “best practice” and hand cut the tab off.
Thanks. I went back and forth on how to do the cuts. When I started talking about other ways of doing the cuts, the video just kept getting longer and longer. Maybe you're right, I don't know.
I agree that having your hand over the work instead of behind it is better for delivering downward force. Another (so simple) way to make your style is to simply glue a sub-half inch piece of wood to the bottom of a rectangular piece of scrap. Clamp, wait, done.
Thanks, and I was surprised how much better it feels with my hand over the stock like that. I like the glue idea also - I thought about it, and I would probably have done it, but I didn't want to make a video that dealt with cutting small pieces like that. Not for total newbies, anyway.
Yep! Seems like the simplest things are the best. 😁 I wonder if I put something like rubber underneath it to enhance the grip...
Again, this was a ingenious idea. Thanks for sharing. I LOVE your channel!!!
Greetings from Switzerland 🇨🇭
Thanks! There's another comment thread here where we're talking about the rubber idea, and it sounds like a good one. I guess great minds think alike. 😄
Elementary. But I really like your videos. Thoughtful, pertinent and always helpful. One of the things that sets your vids apart is that you often think outside the box, coaxing us to do the same. Thank you and... more please.
Thanks! I appreciate it. And yes, of course it's elementary, but I've realized recently that I've been straying from my original goal for this channel, which is of course the newbie woodworker. Obviously I won't make every video this elementary, but I don't want to leave out the complete newbie either. Sorry, that got a little long-winded. 😄
I'm always on the lookout for simple, but effective. I don't have the time to make some of the fancier gadgets tbh 😆. Thanks for sharing
I hear you. 🙂
Just take 3/4 inch plywood, drill. An 8mm hole in one end and put a dowel into it. The simplest push stick ever.
Thanks! 😄
I have been using mty tablesaw to mill some incrdible wormy mapple from a tree in my yard. I thought of you from your 2x6 push block video. I use a plywood push block like tis with a forstner bit circle drilled a quarter way into the side for finger grip. Of course I am making it more complicated. As usual you will be getting a youtube Oscar for cinematography.
Thanks. And yeah, I'll be waiting for that Oscar. 😂
I like it.Will make a few but my favorite is still John Hs. But after watching you maybe making the handle a little taller may be an option
After you make one of mine, let me know what you think compared to John's. It's not a competition - I'm just curious to see if you end up thinking the same things I did.
thanks, love the video. helpful , simple, and to the point. gonna make one of these.
Awesome! Glad I could help. 😄
This was a lovely beginner video. I used to watch my Dad in his shop. He taught me a lot of safety stuff, for which I am grateful. This is clear instruction, a cool concept idea for the push tool. I so look forward to more basic beginner information from you. You can begin to relax the nerves in your voice.. YOU DID GREAT!
Thanks! That was exactly what I was striving for. Not sure what you meant about my voice - that's just how I sound. I'm not nervous when I speak, or when I'm shooting videos, although sometimes my hands shake, but they've done that since I was a kid. But I know you meant it in a positive way, so no worries there - I appreciate that you're being supportive! 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Thank you for knowing I meant it in a positive way. My apologies for misunderstanding the auditory cues I picked up on. Am very much looking forward to future videos!! :)
@@TheNewbieWoodworker From my perspective your voice is fun and unique and I think it describes your joy in injecting humor wherever you can, even when we're talking about losing fingers.
@@clavicus Thanks! That's pretty much how I am in real life, so I'm glad it comes across in the videos. 😄
@@luannapierce2544 No worries - like you said, I understood completely. I got nothing but warm fuzzies from your comment. 🙂
For push block 2.0 you could glue some fine sandpaper or old rubber to the part that contacts the wood for a bit more control. If the intent is to use the block in a sacrificial way and go over the blade, I wouldn't do that, however. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the comment. Yeah, I had a bunch of ideas like that, but I really wanted to keep it simple. I have some anti-slide drawer material that would work great also. But in the end, like I said, I went with simple - it's amazing how fast things get out of hand when I start chasing rabbit trails. 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker I so understand about rabbit trails. Good job was done with being straight forward and simple!!
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Creeping elegance.
@@luannapierce2544 😄
Yep!
A thought about thin material:
Maybe flip the block and make a shorter "tab" on the other side. Might have to adjust dimension slightly, so that the unused tab ends up in front of your finger as you use the block. This way, you could have one side for 1/2"+ stock, and one for thinner stock.
Of course, you could just make two blocks. It's not like the material expense is high!
Thanks, and I think multiple blocks is a reasonable approach. Like you said, it's not like it's expensive. 😄
Hey Dan
Another useful tip. Much appreciated mate. Talking about the lack of rain? Well, not any more Buckets of it.
I’m going to make one of those push blocks when I get home.
Thanks. And, if it's not one thing, it's another, right?
Also - did you put the plans online for your DIY push block. I guess I can figure it out - looks to be 6 - 7 inches tall by about 8 inches long x 3/4 in plywood. I think you could make removable horizontal strips to fit into it - maybe screwed on with inset screws. I have been doing some work with underlayment plywood because it has a nice finish, but it's very thin - 1/5 in.
These are so easy to make, I don't really see the use of making removable strips. And your dimensions sound about right, and no, I don't have plans online. It's more of a "do it how you like it" sort of thing.
Nicely done Dan! Simple & effective push block for anyone to use.......... 👍👍
Thanks! 😄
Thanks for the video.
It looks pretty easy.
I think I will try something like this.
Maybe I'll just cut a small piece (about an inch long) and glue it to the bottom corner.
Then I won't need to make that long cut.
Because I do not have a push block/push stick yet.
And I like to count my fingers before I use the saw and then once again afterwards.
I appreciate the time you take to explain things and then provide the materials list in a Products section.
For a Newbie like myself, this is very helpful.
You're quite welcome. And counting your fingers is good. 😂
OMG! 03:27! Thank you so much. I will NEVER forget that! I will do everything I can to NEVER do that! THANK YOU SIR!
Glad I could help! 😄
Only partway through, and I'm already liking the focus on the rotation of the stock, associated with where on the stock you push it. Push a book away from you on a table by the left corner and it'll rotate clockwise (on a saw, into the rip fence). Push the book away from you by the right corner and it'll rotate counter-clockwise (on a saw, into the blade, for a nasty bind or pinch, and possible kickback). It's good you're explaining and illustrating this important principle on some of the forces at play in a table saw cut! Well done!
Thanks! I almost left that part out, because it was kind of off subject, but in the end one of the things I love about watching UA-cam videos is picking up unexpected tips, so I kept it in. And now I'm glad I did. 😄
Love the editing to make it an informative, quick, concise experience for people like me, newbie woodworkers. I also appreciate that you don't assume the viewer knows anything, which is great to refresh some basics for us. Thank you.
Thanks for the comment! I started this channel specifically because of the reason you mentioned - I hated it when people assumed I knew the details. I'll be the first to admit I don't always succeed in covering all the details, but I do try. 😄
Dan The Man, good job sir. I need a push stick like this one and believe I will be making one tonight. Thank you Dan and keep the videos coming, i enjoy watching them along with your happy attitude.
Thanks! I appreciate it! 😄
So glad to see someone using a blade guard. Don't think anyone else over there in the USA uses them. in trade school in Australia it was always critical to use one at all times. Teacher always said you can trip over a cord or anything on the floor and decapitate yourself without a guard. I made furniture as a tradesman in a factory for 16 years. Would never even consider using a table saw without proper guard fitted. If a union rep or safety inspector passed by and saw no guard fitted there would be all sorts of trouble. Push sticks were essential as well. I always carried one in the pocket of my overalls in case I ever had to jump on a machine with no push stick in reach. I always had several I cut on a band saw and left them on the machines I used regularly. Other people would use the machines too and push sticks would go missing all the time, I always recut or replaced them when the heel started to wear a bit as it could easily slip off the timber if it was too shallow. Great videos keep em coming.
Thanks, Bruce. I'm a recent convert to blade guards. I hated having to remove them whenever I used a cross-cut sled (which I use a lot). But with my new cross-cut sled design, now I can leave them on. Even with a SawStop, as you said, anything can happen.
may be just take a wooden flat rule which is 2 mm thick cut 2 cm and glue it to that thing? The other thing as you applying some pressure to that thing I still think it is not enough. I think it is required that the hand minimum 25 cm far from the blade. You thing gives 10-14 sm as I see. The thing you did is good, but is it good enough?
I'm just a guy who had an idea and posted a video about it. If you've got a better idea, great! Go for it. Even better, post a video showing how you did it.
I bought two of the Grrrrrrrippers before I bought my table saw. They are cheaper than fingers.
It's nice to have the Gripper between your hand and the blade, but it's a teeny bit tricky holding the Gripper in such a way that if the saw decides to throw the wood back, the whole kaboodle will leave your hand and fly past you.
I think the Gripper is a great tool. I own two. The only downside that I see is that you can't use a blade guard, and since I've started using my blade guard, I really like it. As for kickback worries, I understand what you're saying. The only thing I can add is that if you have a problem with kickback, something's wrong. If you're not using a riving knife or something similar, then you need to. If you are and you still get kickback, then your fence and/or blade may be misaligned, or you're just using the saw the wrong way. I mean, every once in a blue moon you could get kickback because of dimensional lumber twisting as the cut releases pent-up tension, but it should almost never happen, really.
Great job. Dan! I especially appreciate your response regarding various ways to provide you with more support. I never want the craft that brings joy, happiness and a good amount of peace into my life to become that which I rely on for my families financial needs. I really like watching your videos - especially hearing the joy your voice reveals you to be having!
Thanks! A lot of nice things for me to read in the morning. I appreciate it! 😄
My miter saw cuts up to 12.5 inches long, would i theoretically need a cross cut sled?
A lot of people only use miter saws. And although I'm partial to crosscut sleds, here's my thoughts on most things like this. Keep the idea in the back of your mind. If you come across a situation where you think it would help, then make one. Or when you're watching a video where someone uses a crosscut sled, ask yourself if it would be better/easier/safer/more fun (whatever) than the miter saw. That's my thinking, anyway - why make something if you might not need it? Unless you just want to, of course. 😂 I've got multiple videos on how to build them, which you can see at thenewbiewoodworker.com/videos/crosscut-sleds/. I really should do a video on the subject of "why use a crosscut sled". Maybe one day. Hope that helps. 😄
I guess if you really wanted to you could make push blocks with different height heals to be able to cut smaller wood
Absolutely. Especially considering how easy they are to make. But if you make one with a fairly short heel, it'll work on thicker stock just fine.
I have been woodworking off and on for 50 years and often find something new, a well da, or a new or simpler way. But always informative and entertaining
TKS
Thanks! It's kind of amazing the things we can learn from watching other people. I have a friend, Matt Jackson whose channel is "Next Level Carpentry", and I keep wishing I could go spend time just watching him work. 😄
does it need to be perfectly flat and cute straight?? Could i simply use a jig saw and call it a day?
Yeah, you could probably get away with that. Depending on how good you are with a jigsaw. 😂
Thanks for the video. Made in about 5 minutes and I like that it keeps my hands away from the blade.
Awesome! Glad I could help. 😄
Klasse 👍🏼 Vorstellung und sehr gut gemachtes Video 🎥 werde mir auf alle Fälle deine Schiebestöcke nachbauen 👍🏼👍🏼 Danke für das tolle Video von dir 👋🏼👋🏼Wünsche dir noch eine schöne Zeit in deiner Werkstatt und verbleibe mit den besten Grüßen aus Braunis Bastelhütte
Vielen Dank und Sie sind herzlich willkommen.
Love the kick-back demo. Good job and good push block!!
Thanks! 😄
Nice and simple to make 👌 👍
Thank you
You're quite welcome! 🙂
Like it. Simple is best.
Thanks! 😄
Helpful tool which I am going to build. Thx
Awesome! Glad I could help. 😄
Making a push block out of a block. Genius😊.
LOL. I must be a blockhead, right? 😛
Blade running when pulling a piece back...🤓👍
First vote. Thanks!
At about 4:40, when you pull the wood back, you could push the wood against the blade. It's not touching the blade's teeth in kick-back mode (on the top), but it seems risky.
Yeah, I agree. Although the other argument is that as you reach for the power switch, your attention isn't on the stock and blade, and you're probably more likely to twist the stock somewhat, or possibly even touch the blade! (I did that once, many moons ago.) So in my mind it's almost a toss-up. But like you said, I usually turn my saw off, especially since I can do it with my knee.
@@LuLeBe Probably true.
Excellent video. Thanks for the great info once again!
Thanks, and you're quite welcome! 😄
Dan, can you do a review on a contour gauge, like the ones where you would need to make cuts around a door frame? I don't see anyone doing practical reviews on these except for people trying to sell them. They sell these contour gauges on amazon. Thanks. Gene in Dallas
I would, but I don't have a use for them right now, and without an actual use case, it wouldn't be a good review. I've discovered that if I'm ever going to know if something is worthwhile, I have to use it for something "real".
@@TheNewbieWoodworker understand. thanks. I really like your productions. Good stuff
@@genesouth9517 Thanks! I appreciate it! 😄
This is super helpful. I had my first day with a table saw yesterday and I now think I'm lucky that I didn't get injured. I am renting a Makita saw from Home Depot and the fence wasn't calibrated well and has some wobble to it. I attempted a crosscut by pushing an uneven piece of wood against the fence and the saw didn't come with a push stick (that I could find) so I improvised and used a few small pieces of cedar to push my pieces through. These are at least 3 or 4 mistakes. Your other video about how using the fence for crosscut can be really dangerous is also very helpful.
You sound just like me, when I was first starting out. Do yourself a favor and do what I *didn't* do - watch some table saw safety videos. :)
Lawd, Bernard, that saw sounds like a disaster waiting to happen. My table saw arrived from Santa on Chrissy day, but i've watched enough safety vids to feel i'm doing as much as i can to keep all 10 fingers in their place. Still, if a cut doesnt feel right or safe, i find another way.
@@kylieb4836 What kind of saw did you get?
@@bernarddouthit4647 my lovely kids bought me the Evolution, which is in the lower price bracket for table saws in Australia but for my first, its perfect for my needs - super happy with the accuracy of the cuts.
Good stuff. Thank you for the content 👍😎🇦🇺
Thanks, and you're welcome! 😄
Super cool and easy to make. Thank you!
You're quite welcome! 😄
I agree with Amy nice teaching and very hamdy
Thanks! Glad I could help! 😄
Nice teaching. Thank you.
Thanks, and you're welcome! 😄
💖
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I've used a scrap of 2x6, or sometimes a square chunk of plywood, particle board shelving, OSB (whatever junk piece I have handy) for years as a push block. Nice to see this concept get some visibility, and you explain it perfectly, as usual! For the heel, I don't go to the trouble of cutting it into the bottom, since that can get all shredded over time, before the bottom of the block gets ruined and has to be trimmed again. I usually just tack a smaller scrap on the back of the block as a heel (with the screw or nail holding the heel on, high up so as to never contact the blade), then the heel can be re-attached separately, as needed. When attaching the heel, I always lay the side that will be toward the fence flat on the saw, then fasten the heel to the block, so that side's always smooth. I also use the same or smaller thickness for the heel, so it's not wider than the block, just in case I ever need to use it in a situation where I have the rip fence on the left.
Thanks for the comment. Regarding the 2x6, that sounds perfect. I did something similar with some laminated pieces of 3/4" plywood I had left over from another project, and ended up with something about the same dimensions as your 2x6. It definitely feels more solid. I personally wouldn't use screws for the heel, but part of that is because the SawStop doesn't play well with metal - it can trigger the brake. It's a good idea to be able to replace the heel, though. I wonder if there's some sort of tenon joint or something that could be used?
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Or wood glue and a couple hours in a clamp, then trim it off or just glue another on it when a replacement heel is needed? I'm just usually too impatient to wait for glue! :)
@@JusBidniss LOL, yeah, I guess it could just be cut off. Sometimes I miss the obvious. As for being impatient for glue, I suppose you could use CA glue and activator, but it's possible it might not be strong enough. It would be simple enough to test, though.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Or both. Wood glue to hold, and a drop here and there of CA/activator at a couple edges to hold while the other cures. I think I'm overthinking this.... lol
Appreciate ya, brother. Again, good content, as always!
@@JusBidniss Overthinking is my middle name. 😄And thanks.
Simple but good!,
Thanks! 😄
Useful tip 👍🏼👍🏼
👍
Works for me!
Thanks.
👍
Thanx for the video :)
You're quite welcome! 🙂
I'm not sure if this will work for 3/4 ply but if you want a thicker push stick, cut out a small section on the top back of the stick or block. Find some dowel and drill a hole thru whats left of the section that you just cut out just slightly bigger then the dowel so it will slid thru easily , and use the dowel which will self adjust to the thickness of what ever you are cutting for the pusher. You can make what ever kind of collar you want and press the dowel into it so the dowel doesn't fall out after the cut, now you have a self adjusting push stick or block
That's a pretty good idea - thanks!
@@TheNewbieWoodworker I don't get it ?!?
@@graememcgregor8407 The idea is to use a dowel for the rear heal, which sits in a hole all the way through the push block. Then the dowel can be moved up or down slightly, to match the thickness of the material. At least, that's how I understood his comments.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker That makes sense now. Thanks
@@graememcgregor8407 Glad to help. Assuming I was correct, of course. 😄
I read some of the discussions below about different ways of constructing your pushblock. I like the 2x6 idea. I was just cross cutting some end grain pieces today for shims, so I'm thinking, rather than make that difficult cutout -- whatever way you try to make it, it seems a pain to me -- why not just make the pushblock out of two pieces? Instead of having a tiny shoe to attach some way ( as talked about below), can I go ahead and screw a slightly taller second piece of end-grain 2x6 to the back edge? (Maybe use a couple of horizontal screws well out of blade reach?) Or use dowels. Nice to have the "shoe" be replaceable.
As I am trying to think of how deep to make the shoe, I guess you could get fancy and have a vertically sliding back end. (I guess I need to adjust the height of the shoe portion for different stock? How much, I wonder? Not enough experience yet! I do have some 1/8" ply...
Anyway, I like the push block. Your oak one looks nice. :) Thanks for going to the trouble. As a newbie with the table saw, I would feel pretty safe with your pushblock and had been thinking of making something. We bought a Gripper and it's really helpful, but just ran into a case today where it's not ideal; somehow it feels safer to have something wider and substantial that keeps my hands further away from the blade.
Personally, I don't like the idea of screws. But any other method is fine. As for height of the heel, it doesn't really matter. This isn't rocket science. The best thing about woodworking is that you can experiment and see what you like the best. So try out your ideas, and see what you like! 😄And thanks for the nice comments.
Check out Jay Bates' push block on UA-cam made from a 2×6. That's what I use. Easy to make and very safe. I also use screws horizontally on a replaceable heel, well out of the way of any blade height that wilil never come close to the screws. Be safe!
TY for the help. Will CA glue and activator work for gluing the shoe on, or will the pressure it is subjected to cause the shoe to pop off? (I have been seeing jigs put together with CA glue without screws and that it holds fine for temporary jigs -- but this push block might be different? )
I need to get out today and make a push block that fits our current job better than the gripper, so I need simple and safe. It does not have to be adjustable though I'll keep it in mind for future.
We're ripping just 1/4" off the square edge of some 1/2" thick x 2"" pieces of long bullnose trim that have come from the vendor with a bullnose already cut. The bullnose has to ride against the fence. I think the bottom of a 2x6 will solve that problem by having a bigger bottom surface.
( I noticed it's easy when repositioning the Gripper as the cut moves through to get the Gripper a little angled away from the fence, though we started off all square at the start. That makes me nervous and I am trying to pay attention to anything that makes me uncomfortable, or the little voice that gives warnings, stop, and find a different way before proceeding. )
I will try it out without the saw and see how stable it is through the whole cut. Thanks again for the help!
@@rwind656 I'm not sure about the CA glue. It's certainly subject to coming apart if you "rap" on it, so if you got some severe kickback, it might break. Better safe than sorry, I suppose, and not use it.
TY re: screws and CA glue not being wise. Might as well ask my stupid questions to expose my ignorance... Could a 1/2" dowel (for example) be used as the pushing surface? Drill a vertical hole up into the wood (or two 1/4" dowels/2 holes ) from underneath at the rear of the push block... Replace when worn. Could dowels straddle the blade if necessary for a thin cut? Is it dangerous to push on both sides of the blade? ( I am guessing not, because the Gripper straddles the blade. ) TY for helping me understand pushblocks. I do understand I am complicating your design. I guess I don't like the idea of having to make that cutout on the original piece to leave a shoe. I'd rather append something.
Can any experienced woodworker answers the open question at 4:45 ? Really interested to know the right way. Thx
always stop saw if your not cutting all way though as sliding work back while blade is spinning is in essence starting a kickback even if youget away with it its potentially v dangerous. narrator even notes its possibly an unwise nove . rememder you will always get away with danerous or questionable actions.........until the first time you dont,then it may be too late. my motto is a stopped saw cant throw anything at you or pull you into it.
@@vogonpoet5860 Thanks, Robert. I normally always turn the saw off first, but I forgot here, so I thought I'd ask people what they thought. Honestly, it felt "wrong" to back it out while it was still running. On the other hand, I remember that one time (a long time ago) I turned a saw off part-way through a cut, and actually stuck my thumb in the blade because I was so focused on turning the saw off. Of course, like an idiot I wasn't using a blade guard, so that could have had something to do with it. 🙄😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker any woodworker who never makesamistake or gets cut is a spectator, most of us just dont get caught on camera. when i first started i turned on my drill press and got a massive bruise where the forgotten chuck key flew out into my chest ,lucky it was on low speed. i used a universal tablesaw blade to rip a 6x2, somehow the end caught in a cutout before reaching the rear teeth and kicked back hard enough to hole a panel door,thankfully i was to one side and hab guard down, uni blade got scrapped, sharpening chisel i cut a finger testing sharpness, i now lightly test like my cutthroat razor on my thumb nail. but these i did out of sight and learned painfull and scary lessons . even experienced workers make mistakes and lose consentration , so much easier for a newbie. if in doubt turn off, but then not as bad as some 'teachers' i have seen,start a saw or sander or even planer, start the dust collector and shout a commentary as they work without respirator,ear protection or safety glasses. i also knew a friend who shutting down for winter decided to wax his bandsaw blade by running the saw, waxing a cloth and pinching the blade fro the back. he got away with it and i lectured him later found out he tried removing wax same way but cloth snagged a tooth and ripped cloth fromhis fingers, luckily justshattered nerves and no physical harm. lesson learned
@@vogonpoet5860 Yep, we've all learned the hard way.
@@vogonpoet5860 thank you. Being rather new I didn’t remove any of the safety tools coming with the saw but it’s good to know the right way.
thanks can a jigsaw be ok to cut that?
The problem with a jigsaw is getting the bottom flat enough, but you can certainly try it. You could absolutely do the short cut with a jigsaw. Let me know if it works for you. The only thing you'll waste is a piece or two of wood, right? 😄
Thank you for your lesson!
You're welcome! 😄
Thanks
You're quite welcome! 😄
muito fixe
👍
If you do that with a 2x4 you can get a really stable push block. Big and chunky but great control
Good idea, but I'd prefer a 2x6, because a 2x4 doesn't get my hands far enough away from the blade. And I actually made one like that, except out of 2 pieces of laminated 3/4" plywood I had left around from another project. I'll use it on larger stock. And you're right, it has great control.
Dan, you are the man! I got a kickback when I didn't have my riving knife installed. It hurt like hell and left a bruise that lasted for four months. I change my ways right away after that. I want to say you are one of my favorite creators. You deserve more subscribers than you have. I feel you are a neighbor who can empathize what a newbie goes through.
Thanks! And I'm glad your lesson didn't leave permanent damage. But I'll bet you'll never forget it, right? And thanks for the nice comments. 😄
Because I frequently let these be sacrificial for narrow cuts, I like to cut mine into rectangles and then screw a backing plate on to act as the foot. Just put the screws up high enough that you don't risk hitting the blade. Then I can just cut the bottom flush as needed and screw on a new backing plate. Not as strong as cutting it the way you did, but more convenient to use.
Sounds good to me! I wouldn't do that with my SawStop, because it doesn't like metal (it can trigger the brake), but otherwise, definitely. 😄
Nylon screws would work for sawstop
@@plippert YES! Don't use metal in a pushblock. NEVER!
@@plippert Great idea!
@@plippert I never thought of nylon screws before. Interesting idea - thanks!
I suppose you could have a shallow heel on the top edge then you'd have a 2 in 1 pusher.
Not a bad idea at all - wish I had thought of it! 😄
Or make it a square with 4 heels. The additional heels do not need to be a different depth, but can come in handy when other heels eventually get chewed up by going through the blade.
@@XJWill1 Even better !!!
Hi, It looks a lot like my idea, mine is a square and the depth stop is screwed on so that it can be replaced if damaged if you want to get fancy you can make a slot on the depth stop and then it can be adjusted to any depth.
Interesting!
Another great tip - thanks Dan!
Is there a way to support your channel apart from buying through your product links? Maybe through Patreon?
Thanks. No, no other way, other than buying plans, but frankly, that's not necessary. Although I appreciate the fact I make some money from this, I never got into it for the money. So just watch the videos and give some thumbs up, and I'm happy. 😄
Thank you, I'm going to make a couple of these. BTW, you made an accidental wooden bunny at 1:36!
You're right!! 😂 Thanks, and you're welcome. 😄
I put an almost otherwise useless glue called Go2Glue on the bottom for traction. It is truly non-slip glue. I've put it on knife handles to keep a good grip. That is about all this glue is good for. Got it at HD.
Interesting. It doesn't come off on the stock?
raising the blade that high for a straight cut is mentally unsafe. i made a similar block ( actually 3 different thickness for different thickness cuts). for safest method use hand saw to cut heel. next best use a bandsaw, i would NEVER encourage a newbie or beginner to make those cuts with a blade so high thats almost begging for injury or kickback especially removing a blade guide... i actually went cold. great block though. for thin cuts with guard cut opposite side from fence using pusher fence side to avoid kickback and stand to opposite side from fence to push into fence and be out of fire line incase of kickback
Thanks for your comment. I don't think there's any real concern about kickback. The stock never reaches the rear teeth, and as far as I know, that's really the only place where a raised blade could contribute to kickback. Nothing's perfectly safe, but I don't think this was particularly unsafe. I hope not, anyway.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker any expeienced woodworker will tell you never have the blade more than a tooth higher than the work piece, and even if a newbie doesnt get kickback this time, setting a blade too high by precident is likely come back to bite them. as for removing the blade guard, ask any E&A nurse for their opinion, and any argument "its only once", it only takes "once" to sever fingers. remember were talking newbies here, and if experienced woodworkers like Stumpy Nubbs can get caught out , what chance newdies. even marc spagnola has caught kickback.
@@robira1313 if you think i am mentally unsafe for being concerned over safety around potentially life threatening machines, i hope you keep ice bags to hand for collecting fingers you sever, and as a first responce level trained person here is a possible scenario. woodworker has hand pulled into unguarded or over raised blade, first reaction horror and numdness (first stage shock), panic and seconds after incident, sevear pain and nausea at amount of blood loss, best outcome someone quickly staunches blood flow picks up fingers, gets to hospital , long painfull surgery and rehab , limited movement. worst case , shock and blood loss cause loss of conciousness and bleed out leads to another woodworker making your casket. ALL tools in woodworking can harm, proper safety reduces the chances of hurt or worse. manufacturers fit safety measures for a reason not for sales.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker kickback can be caused anywhere beyond the arbour point if fenceis too tight,angled in or used with feather board, new style multipupose blades with deeper teeth can catch early (a friend bought a new contractor saw with a combi blade in), you should always treat a saw like a big dog, with respect, a little caution, safely and the knowledge it is quite capable of shredding flesh. dont be scared, be safe.
@@vogonpoet5860 Robert - I agree with the reasons you posted these comments. I don't think you're being overly concerned. I own a SawStop for a reason, after all. I'm well aware of what a table saw can do to your hands, fingers, body, etc. I just happen to disagree with some of your points. But I'm not ignoring what you've said.
But let's be real for a moment. As for removing the blade guard, there are times it's completely necessary. And let's face it, most people these days don't use one at all. So I think the fact I showed I've started to use a blade guard, and that I actually built a sled that works with a blade guard, will do a lot towards helping some viewers to start using them.
Safety is always a concern, and I never say something is completely safe, but come on, this cut isn't going to cause kickback. It just isn't. The fence would have to be way out of alignment for this to happen, and if it's that much out of alignment, kickback will happen eventually no matter what kind of cut they make. In this situation, with the hand where it is, kickback would almost surely push the hand away from the blade, so the height of the blade is irrelevant, as far as kickback is concerned.
I completely agree that the blade should normally be raised only as high as needed. But you're being disingenuous by saying that "any experienced woodworker" would tell you that. There are plenty of experienced woodworkers who claim a blade cuts better when it's raised all the way up. I don't agree with them, of course, but my point is that not everyone would agree with you.
The bottom line is, yes, the table saw is dangerous, and yes, we should treat it like a wild animal that can strike at any moment. I just don't think what I've shown in this video is inherently unsafe. I will grant you that I could have said not to raise the blade this high for other cuts. But you can't always cover everything, no matter how hard you try. If you think you can, try making some videos, and see how long they get when you start focusing on every possible misinterpretation. And even then, you'll miss something.