Hi, SMT I recently bought a Bachmann USRA 0 6 0 of ebay. It was supposed to come today (Monday) but hasn’t arrived yet. it also smokes. Great work on this little engine. - That Model Railroader
I agree! The videos SMT done, inspired me to do an autopsy on the Tyco Road Diesel Chattanooga 6 axle locomotive. The coils were bad, comutator? was black, and ther wasn't a wire on the bottom part of the motor. Previous person 2-3 decades ago, didn't do a good repair.. Yet I took photos and emailed them to SMT.. I'm not sure what type of road diesel it is.. EMD, GP, SD? The Center weight where the fuel tanks were at, are missing.. It was a 'junk' lot of mis-matched locomotives, scrap junk rolling stock, some were ads I responded to, and found out the previous owner passed away, and the wife felt it would go to a good home. On my other layout, I had some section of storage track where it sat looking like a scrap junk locomotive. I've used rolling stock box-cars, and some tank cars without trucks/wheels as part of an industrial storage site. In my road travels of Texas back roads, I found box cars, tank cars propped up on supports as converted offices, sleeping berths, storage sheds, and tank cars stored diesel or fuel.. mostly on side of the track as makeshift storage tank/sheds.
@@tommurphy4307 No smack comments about a dead guy. Just that his wife was tossing away a collection of left over parts and rolling stock after the reading of the will and the remaining locomotives were in bad shape with bad commutators and worn brushes. I had to use tooth picks and q-tips. The widow was not a model railroad fan. I was in El Paso back in the 80’s when I rode my bike in this nice neighborhood. I saw the train stuff and asked if I could have it. She showed me the train parts.. I called my dad to help; as he was elated while we recovered what we could fit in a 1977 Econoline 150 cargo van. Only father and son moment we had. Rest of the time he was at Fort Bliss about some possible Russian First Nuclear Strike. Something about Soviet Union starting WW3. No big deal right?
Always amazes me how you're able to take a super run-down model and revive it from the dead. A seriously good skill that Im sure will help you for multiple applications in the future. Im so happy that I found this channel :-)
I emailed SMT / Harrison on my vintage Tyco Road Diesel 5628 Chattanooga 6-axle locomotive with horn-hook couplers. Sadly, the motor itself, coils, and main parts need replacing.. It was D.O.A. locomotive I got back in the 80's in El Paso.. I followed SMT's videos and my hands aren't as nimble.. I wrecked my dad's Bachmann's 0-6-0 light/smoke with slope tender locomotive.. and found a replacement for him. I got a Rivarossi 0-8-0 yard goat, and a few Athearn Blue Box diesels..
i think the carpet fibers and taking a header on its roof killed it before it was actually worn-out. and then harrison ripped his way in there and saved the day- YAY!
Saved another one Harrison. Since AHM closed up IIRC around 84 85 and that MDT switcher set seemed to be one of the more popular starter sets ( my younger brother got the B&O set around 74 or 75 for Christmas) my guess is that's probably a 70s trainset survivor as that "the seventies called and they want their carpet back" reddish brown carpet fuzz just screams 70s livingroom shag carpet. As to mounting the motor the rubberband will most likely dry rot fairly quickly but instead maybe just a blob of hot glue right where the motor meets the frame pocket but just a blob on each of the larger sides. Enough to hold the motor but a small enough blob you could pop it free with a screwdriver or knife blade if you need to do anything with the motor.
just run a SMALL bead of rtv silicone around the can that'll hold it. you can just yank it out for shopping later on, clear the stuff off and use another bead to re-anchor it. done deal. what a POS
It's brilliant watching over the years how you've gotten so confident, knowledgeable and enthusiastic with your repairs, kudos to you. Looking through twenties lionel and hornby catalogues repairs, maintenance and understanding were always encouraged when toy trains were an educational device as well as just a toy (ever tried rewiring a standard gauge dual super motored field wound 402? Lol). Really well done.
That’s a runner! Kapton tape would also work to hold that motor in place. I have one of these I bought used in 1975 that had minor physical damage, including a broken screw mount on the hood. It’s been in my parts box for years and had become well played with. I cleaned it up the mechanical mechanism recently to see if it was good for parts and it still runs! I now have a rubber band around the shell to hold it to the chassis and I run it for laughs!
Plymouth switcher, originally offered by American Track & Train Corp. back in the 60s...sold by Model Power lately. Prolly spent every Christmas running around the base of a Christmas tree.
@@SMTMainline wish I could post pictures, I have an AT&T Corp. one, as well as a Model Power. Model Power went so far as to retool the screw on top out of the model and cast the cab handrails in. Other than that, it's the same model.
@@tommurphy4307 I have an AT&T one... interesting that one could market a model with a big, fat screw in the hood back then. While it is similar to the Tyco unit, it is not the same. Model Power has been around since 1970. AHM's model more closely resembles a Tyco, but it too is a stand alone creation of their own. One of my favorite parts of the hobby is traciing a mold thru its many incarnations over the years.
hi smt took a page from your book stop at antique store they had trains most was o scale then i saw two boxes of life like brand new gp-38 loco and dummy sante fe sixteen apiece engine didnt run took shell off brand new inside and out front wheels drive back electric connection wheels and wipers real dirty took a lot of work to clean put back together it worked just fine so 32 dollars for loco and dummy thanks to you i new how to fix it thank you smt keep up the good work guy kurts
I’ve serviced numerous Lionel diesels that had carpet fragments in the worm gear. It can destroy the main gear in Lionel units. Then you have to tear the drive unit apart to replace the gear. When the gear wears, you also get metal fragments in the drive unit.
SMT Mainline you’ve got it. I have picked dry grease out like you do, and have test run old units, especially old Lionel locomotives that have seen no lubricant in 60+ years. They sound like a meat grinder at the local butcher shop. Old American Flyer units are similar except the armatures can cook out when people apply too much power to get a dry unit to run. The current draw on the field wound AC motors goes up, the motor tries to run so someone turns the transformer up to full, which is about 20 volts, and poof, smoked armature.
I like how easy the AHM locomotives are to open up this chassis is the same as all your 0-4-0 AHM diesels all they did was change the body . im surprised the worm gear was moved down near motor the one on mine is flush with the motor shaft which mine has original motor. I can guess someone replaced the old motor with the can motor which is what I was told about going to do when the motor burns out. I could be wrong but anyway good MacGyver the motor mounting man.
@@Alerrecks oh wow. See i didn't know that bit. Mine has a open frame type motor it came with like my other AHM locomotives my 2 RS2 diesels have that motor not one in video
Not a "yard" job but a quick fix to get it back on the rails is good enough for something that won't be an every day runner in the first place. Nice fix.
Neat little engine. I have the exact same engine, given to me by a friend. Mine runs good lol. However, I always thought they looked more like On30 than HO.
a lot of liberties were taken by manufacturers to fit their drives inside the plymouths- even the bachmann N scale plymouths are a bit fat-looking, but the guys love them and i've been building them up (from parts) like crazy. they are the BEST n scale yard switchers- dollars to donuts. 5-pole spectrum motors, brass worms, metal split-frames and all. i charge them $70 (with rapidos and MTs are a little extra) and they get a sweet-running yard monkey with no complaints. end of story.
Huh. Never seen an AHM Plymouth with a factory-installed can motor before... Also, it appears the original motor was swapped for something else. I remember seeing those black-top motors available from Amazon. Looks like the owner swapped it out. The motor looks cleaner than the rest of the engine's insides
i doubt it- that motor case had the proper notches for those plastic hooks- and some kid dropped it on its roof and broke one of the hooks- i think harrison nailed it.
..and now those things cost a grip- the katos are much cheaper. also i hear the sound versions don't creep as well. i suggest you go to a train shop and test them side-by-side before you dive in.
It works but it will deteriorate and break in time. It's a good idea, though, it's a minimal investment and you get to test it and see if it runs, then you can change it if you want. A bit of silicone gasket maker would be more permanent, a small automotive hose clamp might also work if the screw portion will fit inside the cab.
I would have wrapped the motor with wire that way it have been more of a permanent solution. Also when you talk about putting oil on bearings I don't know of many of those Motors that have any bearings at all or even the wheels.
ANYTHING the wheelsets roll inside of can be considered a bearing. its more the job that it does rather than what it is. how about a plastic bearing- does that work for you?
If I had a nickle for every time smt set an engine on fire while fixing it I'd have 2 nickels, which isn't a lot but its wierd that it happened twice .
If I had a nickel for every time I saw a comment like this, I’d have 2 nickels, which isn’t much and it’s not weird that it happened twice -The Master of Tech, 2021
@@crewleaderprods but if u gonna put it back together don’t u think u should put all the parts together includin the counter weights ? Also ...the next time u run a train .... run the American Express and or a big steam train. With 3 6 cars and a caboose in the rear . I hav yet to see you do this and nobody else requested it !
its not a counterweight- its just a weight and he's got to go back in there anyway- and harrison knows that weight is needed because it sits over the drive wheels of that POS
Man my locomotive is the same age as that one, while it still works, its back coupling is broken and it needs some oil, actually all of my models (which are 40 years old btw) need oil.
A really poor mechanism and a motor of a type which I remember as very easily burned through. Are you shure that its bearings need lubrication? There are types of bearings which should not get lubrication.
I've never seen a bearing that doesn't require oil. I know some aren't suppose to be serviced but I can't imagine they would last very long without any lubrication.
@@SMTMainline My classes 101, 145 and 146 from Fleischmann (prototypes came into service during the 1990s) have motors which do not need any lubrication. Fleischmann forbids it in its instruction manuals. Other manufactures do the same. But as far as I enjoyed your videos you deal with rather old if not antique models.
You need a 3d printer, your world will never be the same, i create repair pieces for my locos or interiors for my coaches all the time. If not full models.
@@j.mcq.8418 On an extrusion one only if the original gear is thick enough, I may say that mostly no, on a resin printer, who knows, I want to try but they are still expensive, but sometime in the future...
i don't know why but my experience with Athearn has not been great i first got a athearn locomotive that ran but the 3rd day i had it it broke then i was playing with my papa's Athearn gp 38 and it started making a noise and then it wouldn't ru and now i'm worried because i just saved up and bought my dream athearn loco witch was a CP dash 9 i got of kijiji for $110 and im worried its gonna break
harrison? kid? i think its time for you to step up to brass stuff- quit wasting your time and talents on cheap plastic trains. you deserve it and the value of your collection will skyrocket. give it some consideration. rob
Harrison, there is a Hiawatha steamer like yours on ebay. for 4 grand! seems like your engine is a heck-of-a investment. Here is a link Rivarossi HO RARE Bakelite Atlantic 4-4-2 Hiawatha Milwaukee Rd L 442 1948-1954 | eBay
That engine has been on there for years, they aren't worth $4,000 but they are rare. I feel lucky to have one but it means more in sentimental value more than any other value.
@@SMTMainline wow, I just randomly ran across it looking for something else. Good to know it's an anomaly. Glad not of interest to me. LOL yeah am aware of the sentimental value of several of your rolling stock and loco items. take care.
Serenity……..have a great day Harrison 👍
Hi, SMT
I recently bought a Bachmann USRA 0 6 0 of ebay. It was supposed to come today (Monday) but hasn’t arrived yet. it also smokes. Great work on this little engine.
- That Model Railroader
Well done my friend!! Glad to see some older engines get brought back to life!!
Thank you!
I agree! The videos SMT done, inspired me to do an autopsy on the Tyco Road Diesel Chattanooga 6 axle locomotive. The coils were bad, comutator? was black, and ther wasn't a wire on the bottom part of the motor. Previous person 2-3 decades ago, didn't do a good repair.. Yet I took photos and emailed them to SMT.. I'm not sure what type of road diesel it is.. EMD, GP, SD? The Center weight where the fuel tanks were at, are missing.. It was a 'junk' lot of mis-matched locomotives, scrap junk rolling stock, some were ads I responded to, and found out the previous owner passed away, and the wife felt it would go to a good home. On my other layout, I had some section of storage track where it sat looking like a scrap junk locomotive. I've used rolling stock box-cars, and some tank cars without trucks/wheels as part of an industrial storage site. In my road travels of Texas back roads, I found box cars, tank cars propped up on supports as converted offices, sleeping berths, storage sheds, and tank cars stored diesel or fuel.. mostly on side of the track as makeshift storage tank/sheds.
@@lawnmowermanTX talking smack about a dead guy is bad luck.
@@tommurphy4307 No smack comments about a dead guy. Just that his wife was tossing away a collection of left over parts and rolling stock after the reading of the will and the remaining locomotives were in bad shape with bad commutators and worn brushes. I had to use tooth picks and q-tips. The widow was not a model railroad fan. I was in El Paso back in the 80’s when I rode my bike in this nice neighborhood. I saw the train stuff and asked if I could have it. She showed me the train parts.. I called my dad to help; as he was elated while we recovered what we could fit in a 1977 Econoline 150 cargo van. Only father and son moment we had. Rest of the time he was at Fort Bliss about some possible Russian First Nuclear Strike. Something about Soviet Union starting WW3. No big deal right?
That is so cute. Glad it is running again. That was a lot of hair and carpet fibers. Wow. Great job Harrison. Don't forget to clean the wheels. 😊❤ 🇺🇸
Thank you!
Always amazes me how you're able to take a super run-down model and revive it from the dead. A seriously good skill that Im sure will help you for multiple applications in the future. Im so happy that I found this channel :-)
I emailed SMT / Harrison on my vintage Tyco Road Diesel 5628 Chattanooga 6-axle locomotive with horn-hook couplers. Sadly, the motor itself, coils, and main parts need replacing.. It was D.O.A. locomotive I got back in the 80's in El Paso.. I followed SMT's videos and my hands aren't as nimble.. I wrecked my dad's Bachmann's 0-6-0 light/smoke with slope tender locomotive.. and found a replacement for him. I got a Rivarossi 0-8-0 yard goat, and a few Athearn Blue Box diesels..
i think the carpet fibers and taking a header on its roof killed it before it was actually worn-out. and then harrison ripped his way in there and saved the day- YAY!
Your videos are always a “feel good” story which I appreciate during these pandemic times. Thanks Harrrison!👍
Thank you!
Who knew this little locomotive could have so much problems. Nice vid.
Love that GE demonstrator unit! Thanks for your awesome channel SMT!
thank you, my grandson and I learned a lot about this type of electric train from you. Well done and thank you !
Saved another one Harrison.
Since AHM closed up IIRC around 84 85 and that MDT switcher set seemed to be one of the more popular starter sets ( my younger brother got the B&O set around 74 or 75 for Christmas) my guess is that's probably a 70s trainset survivor as that "the seventies called and they want their carpet back" reddish brown carpet fuzz just screams 70s livingroom shag carpet.
As to mounting the motor the rubberband will most likely dry rot fairly quickly but instead maybe just a blob of hot glue right where the motor meets the frame pocket but just a blob on each of the larger sides. Enough to hold the motor but a small enough blob you could pop it free with a screwdriver or knife blade if you need to do anything with the motor.
Others were suggesting a hose clamp which I might try.
@@SMTMainline omg now thats really being Red Green lol. Heck duct tape would be featured on that show so much duct tape made a huge profit lol.
@@SMTMainline that could work as well
just run a SMALL bead of rtv silicone around the can that'll hold it. you can just yank it out for shopping later on, clear the stuff off and use another bead to re-anchor it. done deal. what a POS
It's brilliant watching over the years how you've gotten so confident, knowledgeable and enthusiastic with your repairs, kudos to you.
Looking through twenties lionel and hornby catalogues repairs, maintenance and understanding were always encouraged when toy trains were an educational device as well as just a toy (ever tried rewiring a standard gauge dual super motored field wound 402? Lol).
Really well done.
Thanks a bunch for that comment!
@@SMTMainline "We got a little runner!"
Your restoration videos always make me want to fix more trains!
It can be quite enjoyable.
I remembered using orthodontic rubber bands for traction tires. The advantage of having braces! LOL
Another successful surgery nice job👍
That's quite a little locomotive SMT, nice repair work!
Thank you!
That’s a runner! Kapton tape would also work to hold that motor in place. I have one of these I bought used in 1975 that had minor physical damage, including a broken screw mount on the hood. It’s been in my parts box for years and had become well played with. I cleaned it up the mechanical mechanism recently to see if it was good for parts and it still runs! I now have a rubber band around the shell to hold it to the chassis and I run it for laughs!
just for laughs you could hold it over an ash can and then let go- that would be hilarious
Gotta say You do a great job fixing vintage model trains I’m also a train fan but American trains
Thank you!
@@SMTMainline your welcome
I love watching your videos by the way
not only is that an american switcher- its an OHIO-built switcher. the best stuff used to be made in ohio- when i lived there...
The rubber band was a really ingenious idea!
Thanks, I will probably end up replacing it with a hose clamp but it should work well for now.
@@SMTMainline talk about over-engineering...
Plymouth switcher, originally offered by American Track & Train Corp. back in the 60s...sold by Model Power lately. Prolly spent every Christmas running around the base of a Christmas tree.
I think model power was still making those starter sets up until the 2010s.
@@SMTMainline wish I could post pictures, I have an AT&T Corp. one, as well as a Model Power. Model Power went so far as to retool the screw on top out of the model and cast the cab handrails in. Other than that, it's the same model.
actually mantua made the first ones for tyco in 1963- i had one. the model power units were first sold in 1965
@@tommurphy4307 I have an AT&T one... interesting that one could market a model with a big, fat screw in the hood back then. While it is similar to the Tyco unit, it is not the same. Model Power has been around since 1970. AHM's model more closely resembles a Tyco, but it too is a stand alone creation of their own. One of my favorite parts of the hobby is traciing a mold thru its many incarnations over the years.
hi smt took a page from your book stop at antique store they had trains most was o scale then i saw two boxes of life like brand new gp-38 loco and dummy sante fe sixteen apiece engine didnt run took shell off brand new inside and out front wheels drive back electric connection wheels and wipers real dirty took a lot of work to clean put back together it worked just fine so 32 dollars for loco and dummy thanks to you i new how to fix it thank you smt keep up the good work guy kurts
How did you like the process? it can be a bit tricky at first.
@@SMTMainline it felt good to see it run
I’ve serviced numerous Lionel diesels that had carpet fragments in the worm gear. It can destroy the main gear in Lionel units. Then you have to tear the drive unit apart to replace the gear. When the gear wears, you also get metal fragments in the drive unit.
I imagine it would be worse with metal parts, especially if they aren't properly lubricated.
SMT Mainline you’ve got it. I have picked dry grease out like you do, and have test run old units, especially old Lionel locomotives that have seen no lubricant in 60+ years. They sound like a meat grinder at the local butcher shop. Old American Flyer units are similar except the armatures can cook out when people apply too much power to get a dry unit to run. The current draw on the field wound AC motors goes up, the motor tries to run so someone turns the transformer up to full, which is about 20 volts, and poof, smoked armature.
@@markshogan2642 no tiny motor can handle that treatment.
I like how easy the AHM locomotives are to open up this chassis is the same as all your 0-4-0 AHM diesels all they did was change the body . im surprised the worm gear was moved down near motor the one on mine is flush with the motor shaft which mine has original motor. I can guess someone replaced the old motor with the can motor which is what I was told about going to do when the motor burns out. I could be wrong but anyway good MacGyver the motor mounting man.
It's stock. The gear not engaging is a common problem
@@Alerrecks oh wow. See i didn't know that bit. Mine has a open frame type motor it came with like my other AHM locomotives my 2 RS2 diesels have that motor not one in video
@@mercuryoak2 ok
Thanks
there should be a little cover over that worm and wheelset gear to keep that schmutz out of there.
Well Folks... in today's video? Man 😆...that never gets old.
You forgot to put the back weight in. :)
I noticed that after recording haha
Not a "yard" job but a quick fix to get it back on the rails is good enough for something that won't be an every day runner in the first place. Nice fix.
that thing would make a lousy yard switcher but a great shelf queen
Switcher locomotive GE in HO scale.
Good job in repair the motor.
Neat little engine. I have the exact same engine, given to me by a friend. Mine runs good lol. However, I always thought they looked more like On30 than HO.
I'm a big fan of these little 040s, so simple to work on.
a lot of liberties were taken by manufacturers to fit their drives inside the plymouths- even the bachmann N scale plymouths are a bit fat-looking, but the guys love them and i've been building them up (from parts) like crazy. they are the BEST n scale yard switchers- dollars to donuts. 5-pole spectrum motors, brass worms, metal split-frames and all. i charge them $70 (with rapidos and MTs are a little extra) and they get a sweet-running yard monkey with no complaints. end of story.
A very great successful restoration I can't help but notice you forgot to put the rear weight back on the chassy
I noticed that after filming.
come on harrison- thats the weight that really matters!
Awesome little engine
Maybe a small zip tie would work to compress the intact clip and keep the motor secure.
Great job on getting this running again. Did you put the :rear: weight in again? The n e that sits inside the cab?
Happy holidays merry Christmas 🎄🎁
The Kadee chart in my old Walther's catalog shows the AHM Plymouth MDT switcher uses a # 27 coupler.
that thing isn't worth the cost of the coupler.
Hi man. Awesome video, keep it up.
Huh. Never seen an AHM Plymouth with a factory-installed can motor before... Also, it appears the original motor was swapped for something else. I remember seeing those black-top motors available from Amazon. Looks like the owner swapped it out. The motor looks cleaner than the rest of the engine's insides
It fits nicely and is more efficient than what would have originally been stocked.
i doubt it- that motor case had the proper notches for those plastic hooks- and some kid dropped it on its roof and broke one of the hooks- i think harrison nailed it.
Nice job
Somebody send this kid a Dremel. Nice lighter technique but he is beyond that ... 💪🏾
i find it hard to believe harrison doesn't have some kind of hand grinder.
When I lose a traction tire, I fill the groove with Bullfrog Snot. Performs much better than factory tires.
harrison needs a bottle of bullfrog snot in his toolbox
Had the exact problem on one of mine, motor just needed to be clipped back in
take a closer look- one of the barbs was broken.
Some stiff wire could also hold the motor in place.
A zip tie would perfect to hold the motor in!
the idea is to completely stabilize the motor not just hold it in...
lol nice job putting fire out with your finger lol
Hi SMT I love your videos and I saved up for a Dcc Bachmann n scale gg1 tuscan red.
..and now those things cost a grip- the katos are much cheaper. also i hear the sound versions don't creep as well. i suggest you go to a train shop and test them side-by-side before you dive in.
As cobbled as it sounds, maybe a 1/4 inch hose clamp would do the trick to hold that motor in place.
I like this idea.
That might work! Looking at the plastic it looked brittle.. little hose clamps are perfect. Good Idea!
total overkill and it wouldn't completely locate the motor- and it would eventually become brittle and fail from the motor heat.
Fixing a model train ASMR lol
Good job
great video!
What was that orange gunk on the bottom of the big weight? It had the colour of rust but it looked like fibers.
I think it was ether rust or old adhesive.
Nice ho 0-4-0 switching locomotive
the old mantua-for-tyco plymouths were better-built
It works but it will deteriorate and break in time. It's a good idea, though, it's a minimal investment and you get to test it and see if it runs, then you can change it if you want.
A bit of silicone gasket maker would be more permanent, a small automotive hose clamp might also work if the screw portion will fit inside the cab.
I like the hose clamp idea, I think that's what I will go with.
i concur with the RTV- the hose clamp is bad idea
10:27, maybe you already corrected it, but you left out one small lead weight on the table that goes on the other side of the motor.
I did, corrected after filming haha
@@SMTMainline Nice, that locomotive workbench is a good setup, anything left there is from the last loco you worked on and pieces don't get mixed.
theyre not going to live it down harrison- you better make another vid of you re-installing the weight and all will be well
just got my four new engines today, two life likes, one bachmann and an unknown one
Nice
Do you ever use compressed air?
I normally keep 4 or 5 cans on hand in the workshop
I haven't but I'm sure it could be handy.
You forgot to replace the lead weight in the rear of the locomotive, which would account for the lack of traction you noticed when running it.
I would have wrapped the motor with wire that way it have been more of a permanent solution. Also when you talk about putting oil on bearings I don't know of many of those Motors that have any bearings at all or even the wheels.
ANYTHING the wheelsets roll inside of can be considered a bearing. its more the job that it does rather than what it is. how about a plastic bearing- does that work for you?
Can you do a repair video on a gp 18
How big is your layout
Hey SMT!!!
*this is proof that GE doesnt do their job right.*
How's that project of yours coming along?
But of trouble getting materials for the factory but I think it should be back on track soon.
Hey using the lighter was better until you tried to alter the clip that holds the Motor in place
You forgot two put the rear weight in when you put the shell on
I'm your newest subscriber
If I had a nickle for every time smt set an engine on fire while fixing it I'd have 2 nickels, which isn't a lot but its wierd that it happened twice .
If I had a nickel for every time I saw a comment like this, I’d have 2 nickels, which isn’t much and it’s not weird that it happened twice
-The Master of Tech, 2021
i keep putting a bic lighter in my tool box but the guys keep stealing it...
He forgot the damn counterweight
That ain’t how u do it !
Counterweights are overrated. Change my mind.....
"Now that ain't workin' that's the way you do it
You play the guitar on the MTV"
@@crewleaderprods but if u gonna put it back together don’t u think u should put all the parts together includin the counter weights ?
Also ...the next time u run a train .... run the American Express and or a big steam train. With 3 6 cars and a caboose in the rear .
I hav yet to see you do this and nobody else requested it !
its not a counterweight- its just a weight and he's got to go back in there anyway- and harrison knows that weight is needed because it sits over the drive wheels of that POS
Man my locomotive is the same age as that one, while it still works, its back coupling is broken and it needs some oil, actually all of my models (which are 40 years old btw) need oil.
see my ash can comment up above.
Can't have much traction if it's two wheel drive with no traction tyres. Put a rubber band in to make it 4 wheel drive!
i have a anthearn gp50 that is all wheel power but a bearing broke so its only 3 axle power but runs fine still
Athearn still sells the needed parts to repair that locomotive, even fully assembled trucks specifically for the blue box GP40/50/60 locomotives!
@@randallellison6421 oh
You forgot the rear lead weight.
Bumpers and buffers that's a lot hair.
My track has got no roadbed and slides apart at every connection
glue it down- problem solved
@@tommurphy4307 On carpet? Bruh ;-;
Se riparo i treni come fai tu non avrei mai clienti!!!
oh almost forgot SERENITY
smts new favorite tool is a lighter
yes
you sound like GWR studios.. a lot.
👍👍👍❤❤❤🚂🚂🚂
Genius!!
you left some carpet on the bottom
thats weathering
it was made by model power not ahm
I believe they shared designs.
if you really want to get technical it was probably produced by RSO or mehano...
should of used a small zip tie instead of the rubber band
I might.
as he said- it was a temporary repair
A really poor mechanism and a motor of a type which I remember as very easily burned through. Are you shure that its bearings need lubrication? There are types of bearings which should not get lubrication.
I've never seen a bearing that doesn't require oil. I know some aren't suppose to be serviced but I can't imagine they would last very long without any lubrication.
@@SMTMainline My classes 101, 145 and 146 from Fleischmann (prototypes came into service during the 1990s) have motors which do not need any lubrication. Fleischmann forbids it in its instruction manuals. Other manufactures do the same.
But as far as I enjoyed your videos you deal with rather old if not antique models.
Hi smt
just use a wire tie...
Seems wise
those cost a nickel or more- thats too much, drew.
Why not use a tie-wrap?
What loco serie is ?
You need a 3d printer, your world will never be the same, i create repair pieces for my locos or interiors for my coaches all the time.
If not full models.
Are you able to produce gears that are accurate enough and durable enough? If so, could be a cottage industry.
@@j.mcq.8418 On an extrusion one only if the original gear is thick enough, I may say that mostly no, on a resin printer, who knows, I want to try but they are still expensive, but sometime in the future...
weve got shapeways for that- let them deal with it
Instead of the rubber band to secure the motor, why not use a zippy-tie?? Or, possibly even a medium sized hose clamp???
anazing
i don't know why but my experience with Athearn has not been great i first got a athearn locomotive that ran but the 3rd day i had it it broke then i was playing with my papa's Athearn gp 38 and it started making a noise and then it wouldn't ru and now i'm worried because i just saved up and bought my dream athearn loco witch was a CP dash 9 i got of kijiji for $110 and im worried its gonna break
Howalle
harrison? kid? i think its time for you to step up to brass stuff- quit wasting your time and talents on cheap plastic trains. you deserve it and the value of your collection will skyrocket. give it some consideration. rob
You for got to clean the wheels???? SHAME!!!! SHAME!!!! SHAME!!!! :)
Major shame, haha
they looked like nickel-plated just run it for awhile
Yay 99th like
Hi
Sos
puke what an amount of hair, I used a can motor in one of those work better :3
that WAS a can motor in there
I have to replace it
Harrison, there is a Hiawatha steamer like yours on ebay. for 4 grand! seems like your engine is a heck-of-a investment. Here is a link
Rivarossi HO RARE Bakelite Atlantic 4-4-2 Hiawatha Milwaukee Rd L 442 1948-1954 | eBay
That engine has been on there for years, they aren't worth $4,000 but they are rare. I feel lucky to have one but it means more in sentimental value more than any other value.
@@SMTMainline wow, I just randomly ran across it looking for something else. Good to know it's an anomaly. Glad not of interest to me. LOL yeah am aware of the sentimental value of several of your rolling stock and loco items. take care.
there is no riv in the world thats worth even a crap
🏆🏆🥉🥉🎖️🤹🏼♀️🎟️🎲🎳🎮♟️🎯🎰🪩🪩🪩🪩🪩🪩🪩📯❤️💚💟💟💖💗💓💘❤️🩹🤎💛🖤🧡💙💙💙🖤🖤💔🤍💔❤️🔥🤎💔
Little 040 switchers seem to take the most abuse&Grandpa New Years Day repairs after running everyday from Xmas🤣🚂🚃🇨🇦
They are so simple they are hard to truly break.
theyre small and easy for a kid to heave at his older brothers
Hi