I had the exact same issue turned out to be the engine coolant temp on the block. That was telling the car it was warm when it was a cold start but the fuel pump was fuelling for a cold start. Fixed the issue instantly.
I had a 2015 one and it never misfired for me in the 4 1/2 yrs I owned it! They definitely have a different sound on cold start like a lot of cars but thats very different to misfiring,I wish I could help more
Hi mate hate to say it but 3rd time I have mentioned removing the back seat and taking a look in the tank at the filter and the fuel, I see you have tried different but the fuel could be contaminated and settling in the filter when left. Please just inspect the fuel mate gota worth a shot. Hope you get it sorted. I know its annoying for you but it makes the series. Keep it up.
Personally alot of the parts youve changed i wouldnt of touched untill right at the end after ive cleaned all the intake, throttle body and idle air control valve, new gaskets, then after a clean, its pcv & plugs if that doesnt work im thinking about o2 sensors and then finally ignition and the coils. Why dont you try taking off the throttle body get yourself a toothbrush and carb spray and scrub the lot, dismantle the idle air control valve and scrub that, i recently removed my throttle body on a 29 year old toyota trueno sprinter gtz done exactly what ive just said, new gaskets put it back together, cold start is miles better an idles like a champ, throttle response is instant to, worth a go cost a fiver for carb cleaner, good luck mate 😂👍🏻
The videos aren't about the car anymore mate, it's about YOU, your grit and determination. It may be worth writing down in chronological order everything you've done, then mark when you discovered the engine wasn't correct. Then examine everything prior to that. As you've been working of information based on an original engine. Good luck with it and don't give up.
@@marospokuta9643 he needs to stop putting cheap parts on like a £6 PCV valve and expects it to run right. Chances are it’s something you’ve already changed you’ve just skimped out on budget parts that are a load of shite. Do it once do it right
This is a lesson in mindset and resilience. I’m sure this has been massively frustrating for you behind the scenes and yet you keep coming back with enthusiasm and ideas 💪 As Rocky once said, ‘it ain’t about how hard you can hit. It’s about how hard you can get hit and keep moving forward’. Keep going.
Keep your head up Jesse. I think none of us watching you on this channel are bored of the content. We all felt your pain, especially when it got to the spark plugs. You're an honest and genuine home mechanic and we are all here to follow your journey until you get to your 150k car. You're doing a great job!!!
Honestly Jesse, I can't stress enough just how valuable taking it to the actual Kia main dealers and paying for a diagnostic can be. I have a renault trafic van and it had a problem where it absolutely refused to start when cold. I took it to 4 different garages, 2 of which were apparently renault specialists and nobody could fix it, they all wanted to me to throw tonnes of parts at it. Anyways, one day I got stranded at a local shopping centre, it wouldnt start at all, so I bit the bullet and towed it to my Renault dealer. I kid you not, I had barely gotten home when they rang me and had found the fault! A hair line crack in the cam sensor. nobody else found it but they did instantly. it cost me £80 for the diagnostic and was the best money I had ever spent! I promise you, take it to Kia, its no obligation, you dont have to get them to fix it, but paying their diagnostic fee is worth its weight in gold I promise you.
@@danny-couture sometimes when all hope is lost, the stealers can help you but the fact is he hasn't cleaned the basics, the intake, throttle body, idle air control valve or any o2 sensor, something somewhere is jammed with dirt or one of his o2 sensors is giving a false reading which is causing overfuelling and misfiring on cold.
Hi Jesse, can you check if the software in the ECU for the 2017 car is the same as a 2013. The later car would probably have a GPF which means the fuel trims would be different on start up. May be worth checking lamnda sensors as well because it may over fuel if not reading correct. Best of luck.....
@@ricklufc ECU needs time to read sensors and readjust adaptation.. fuel to air % ,, with been similar ECU it can correct itself once warmer Nd had longer to read ,, dunno with kias ECU Nd engine truth .. but that coolent pipe definitely not helping not normal that gotta be fixed
Hi I am from Kenya 🇰🇪 living in Qatar 🇧🇭. Following up with your Kia problems. I think I can help you with a few tips 1- Bad fuel injector system 2-If water is in the fuel system that often gets trapped in the fuel injector can cause misfire 3- Fuel pressure sensor make sure it's working correctly 4- The low pressure fuel pump that's located in the fuel tank.5- ECU I hope it's help🙏🏾🙏🏾
Maybe look at the internal fuel pump in the tank? The i20n has same type of engine and they have had issue with rough idle then eventually not starting and it's ended up being the internal fuel pump. Not sayin it will fix ur issue but just worth a look
@Jesse Collingham Try replacing the Purge Valve (its not the PCV valve), if the Purge Valve is always open then fumes from the fuel tank can enrich the air/fuel mix and cause starting problems, that valve is meant to be closed on cold start and then opens once the car warms up after a few minutes, maybe worth a try ? you should be able to test it by just unplugging the hose that is connected to the valve on a cold start.
I commented a few videos back about the fuel filters on these 'gelling' up, personally I think it's a fueling issue at cold, I would fit a new fuel filter, test the fuel pressure on completely cold engine, then retest fuel pressure after it's been run and sat for a little bit
I would bet the engine is clogged up with carbon and needs a engine flush.. GDI engine are even more prone to this and will make the engine misfire..it,s not that expensive to do ..use liquid molly and see..worth a try I think.
@@johnthestrongguy car runs great it's only on a cold start, if engine was choked up it would run rough, poor acceleration, poor idle when warm, cost a bomb in fuel, this is not the issue, I believe he has a dirty idle air control valve and dirty o2 sensors, when the idle air control valve is not maintained, it causes rough idle, overfuelling, choked up exhaust and causes the o2 sensors to go black, thus giving of terrible readings, its a domino effect.
Jesse, you need to put these videos out. This is your journey and this is why we invested our time watching your journey so keep it up. We’re here watching you. It’s not boring this what happens in life so keep the videos coming.
Hi Jesse, been scrolling through comments on last video and seen a KIA tech posted about new and old engine coil pack design aswell as wiring differences. May be worth revisiting that and checking due to you having a newer engine on possibly older wiring. Regards Marcin
O2 sensors. You have two, the first is to check the air / fuel ratio pre cat and is used to fine tune the fueling. Basically the ECU measures the amount of air entering the throttle bodies and the fuel map determines how much fuel is added ( fuel / air ratio) at different RPM. This map also changes with engine temperature. The way the ECU adds this set amount of fuel is by opening the injectors for a certain amount of time which will be in the right ball park. However it won't be spot on so the O2 sensor let's the ECU know if it went to rich or too lean and by how much. The ECU then makes a note of this adjustment and saves it as a fuel trim I.e. it will add or remove this amount of fuel to correct the mix. So how does this relate to a cold start? Well O2 sensors don't start working until they've warmed up. So on cold start if the car is rich or lean the ECU doesn't know until the O2 warms up and starts monitoring. So given you have the "wrong" engine my theory would be that the fuel map is not right for your engine. So the fueling will be permanently wrong, but also be continuously corrected by the O2 sensors which will mask the issue. But not on a cold start because as above the O2 sensor hasn't kicked in yet.
This makes perfect sense! Before you give up J, reach out to a rolling road and get a custom map for the car. This would alleviate some if not Al of the issue as you can program the fuelling manually
As someone who owns a Kia I would honestly say don’t touch them! Nightmare to get parts for but one thing I have noticed is the biggest issue is the fuel filters soon as their ever so slightly dirty it’ll go in limp mode or run like crap on cold starts/ all together
I have a 2014 ceed gt tech and I had a very similar issue. Spent money changing parts I didn’t need to, plugs, coils, intake solenoid, exhaust solenoid, cam shaft sensor, crank shaft sensor when all along the problem was the ground wire that goes from the ecu to the intake solenoid was broke. The whole problem was about £2 worth of wire.
The idea of trading up to one side, I personally am just enthralled in your story and the way you go about finding the problems. Keep it up and don’t give up. 🤞🤞
Calvin 100% sat here with his popcorn doing a sinister evil laugh 😂, all jokes aside genuinely this could turn into a massive money pit 😳 is it time to go back to go forward?
You are wrong Jesse - this is authentic content , real life scenarios that we all relate - dont give up the task now is to resolve it - see if you can get assistance from Kia - keep up the good work mate I’m enjoying the series 👏🏿
Iv recently only subscribed from seeing you on Calvin's video and tbh it's good content don't get disheartened because the knowledge you are gaining AND also sharing is priceless, keep at it.
All right bud the only thing I can think of is the air intake temperature (IAT) sensor. There’s a vids on how to test with a voltage meter. Never seen you change the fuel filter either lol. Em is the in tank fuel pump or called high lift pump all right if there is one? Just a couple of more things to check for you. You’ll get it fixed bud just think of the end goal it’s no easy to get a super car. Take it easy bud
Change ecu 😊 the old ecu for previous engine is still in car am I right ? Looking and the newer ecu are different number. You pretty much changed everything else. Best of luck hope you sort it 👍
Jesse, This is you're best video, you have shown tremendous grit, determination and true character, you deserve a successful channel. Keep up the great work, keep pressing and pushing for excellence, I have just witnessed a glint of Legend! All the best, every success!!
Well done for gaining a relationship with the Master Tech at Kia, as a car trader I have been doing this for a while and they are the knes who end up giving the best and correct advice 👌
Jesse lad I don't normally have any interest in car content on UA-cam but your will and showing the true side to theses problems got us hooked. I would also say take to main dealer for a diagnostic I no its more money but you never no sometimes they can come up gold. Ether way keep your chin up big man
Have yoi considered the map. If the engines are different, the map or software could also be wrong. Is there a cold start valve on the throttle body, is that stuck or does the throttle body need a clean etc? My stepdad had an audi S3 with cold start issues and it was a dirty throttle.body preventing the valve closing properly, messing up the Air Fuel ratio.
Jesse, this never give up attitude for the Kia is why I'm watching your videos! Your aha moment while driving about the fuel quality is actually a good guess. I agree with you that an engine should not function like that and never say that it is normal to misfire. If it is not an ECU firmware bug as some have suggested in the previous video, then you may want to check if there is a fuel tank breather valve for this engine. I have a 1.5L 2015 Mini Cooper that has misfire idling like your KIA but only when hot and is normal when cold. The exact opposite. You may like to check that valve too. Anyway, I'll be disappointed if you decide to give up or just swap it as-is with another. You must have most likely moved on but it would be awesome to know what it really was that had caused the misfire.
Not going to lie I’d try swopping the ECU or something like that, and tbh if it was mine I wouldn’t even be bothered if it starts like that from cold, as long as when it’s warm the misfire goes away I wouldn’t be bothered
Jesse mate. I can hear the frustration in your voice. I’m so invested in this and I really feel for you. Keep going man, it’ll be worth it in the end. Bring on the supercar!
Think you might be overlooking the previous video where you figured out the ECU is for the old engine. You’ve already figured out there’s differences in the engine, different plugs for example. So the file for the control over fueling, ignition etc will be different. Would be like dropping a K24 in a K20 car on stock K20 ECU. It isn’t going to run 100% but it would run. Get the car properly tuned to this engine. A proper tuner will also be able to look into fueling and ignition with data logs and see what the fucks actually going on 👍
@@liamkaizen4785 this. Literally this. If it isn't fuelling correctly at cold start (which is usually mapped to run rich initially) it will misfire. I have a strong feeling this will fix the misfire
Problem is I bet some where along the line who ever changed the engine also kept some of the old parts. Maybe a sensor some where. So I don’t even think getting the ECU from the new engine would even help. This cars probably more of a “Frankenstein” of the 2 engines in one. Hence why he’s got the rad cap etc. So literally I reckon the only way to sort this is a proper custom tune to this specific car, with these specific parts. You know it runs. Drives. Absolutely fine. Just needs a tune I bet 👍
hes been too focused on stressing over things and just making the content that he is overlooking things especially if he answered them himself, but did nothing about. anyways it seems once the car is warmed up the performance and driving isnt effected, so if thats the case the minor misfire like sounds on a cold start is borderline irrelevant. id just not worry about it unless its noticeable on the move.
I know you been struggling with this but just want to say iv just started watching because of the proceed GT my misses usto have one. There a good little car (hers didnt have this issue). However, i have watched every video since the first one and will continue to keep watching. Its much better watching you try and fail and it being genuine. The content is top notch mate despite your struggle.
Just finished watching this. I have a 2011 Merc C220. It’s got some issues. DPF blocked. Possibly injectors warn. It’s diesel but still think some new plugs wouldn’t go a miss. Unlocking and locking the car is temperamental by fob. Diagnostics also pick up something about rear seat belt. Sensor in front bumper fell in so have to turn off sensors at the moment. Front bumper slightly different shade to the rest of the car. There is a legit story why I had to get this car in April this year. The car ran well for 2 wks before it started messing around. Even tho that’s miss firing still I feel I would pay u for all the parts you’ve put into it as well as my car.
Aww man I’m gutted for you I was so intrigued to see if you’d sorted it my emotions were all over the shop watching this! Stick at it man I’m sure there is a solution there somewhere keeping everything crossed 🤞loving the content
Fuelling for sure, do these have a valve that controls the idle because I’ve had that a few times go wrong, also worth checking all spades and contacts (check ecu contacts too) make sure everything is clean and not rusty or connected badly, any sensors that control fuel or air are worth testing/changing. I’d also do some fuelling tests on it to make sure levels are where they are supposed to be, take out fuel pumps pressure test system etc. Check throttle sensors etc too. I want you to get to the bottom of it I know it’s not the most exciting content but I’m quite enjoying your pain mate😂only joking but I am enjoying watching you go through the motions with it though. Keep at it mate, we’re all behind you on it.
Next time I think you should get a proper diagnosis and find the issue instead of throwing parts at a car which a lot of people do (swap-a-nostics lol), it will save you a lot of time and money.
Definitely not boring content...troubleshooting like this is valuable and great content...This gets loads of views, Maybe frustrating for you too but for the viewer it makes for great watching....
Like i said on your last video , shifting metal had same issue with a citreon c4 , only way to repair it is change the engine to correct one as, shifting metal tried everything possible even customising ecu which didnt work
On my bimmer I had a rough cold start that was caused by a faulty fuel filter heater. I replaced the fuel filter heater and the problem was still there. It turns out that the fault had blown a fuse. Worth checking to see if your car has something similar. Good luck and keep the faith
Jesse don’t give up. People would watch another 10 episodes to see it Get fixed. For me I would say what is wrong with that vehicle is the idle speed start up. Most modern cars don’t start up and tick over straight away. They start up and rev to Like 1000rpm for so many seconds then work Back down to an idle. Maybe be yours has been mapped out. Or look at the air flow meter readings from start up cold and start up warm. It might be calculating the amount of air wrong and over fuelling.
Dude my bet is that the issue is due to it being a direct injection (GDi) engine. The valves and runners are probably caked in carbon due to the injectors not spraying onto them and cleaning them. On direct injection the injectors spray directly into the bore. This (the carbon buildup) is maybe causing incomplete combustion when it’s cold. When you said you could smell fuel it was a lightbulb moment. worth a shot!! I had this issue before on a ford.
He should have looked at the valves/ports when he had the inlet off, the pcv fail and cause problems with these plus GDI suffer low speed pre ignition you even need to run a specific oil that helps with lspi. This has all been covered in the comments on his other vids
I personally would change the ecu to one that matches the newer engine if a spark plaug has changed from old to New the map in the ecu mignt be different aswell as the old engines might of needed more fuel sent in to start
Don’t give up lad. All the effort has not gone to waste. Just think about all the stuff you learnt going through that struggle. Anyway, something you can try for free, get your diagnostic tool and read all the various temperature sensors on the car when cold. Have a look to see if any look odd or don’t match what is expected. Then turn the car on whilst monitoring each reading to see how it changes. I’m hopeful you would see something. Since the issue happens on cold start, all temperature sensors on the car need checking. Figures crossed you get to the bottom of it.
Don't give up Jesse this is what the channel is all about, i feel your frustration and i totally understand it needs to be cost effective to carry on but your going to hit a few potholes on the road ahead towards your supercar. Looking forward to the next episode.🤞🤞👍👍
Jesse, fantastic videos and very informative. We like the investigation side of things and can learn a thing or two from you when dealing with our own cars. For years I was Into the salvage channels on here but now I find myself not watching them and waiting on your videos.
Jesse, I haven't followed the whole series with this kia but have you replaced the injectors? I come from the n54 bmw world and I had similar issues. The injectors are notorious for leaking when sat and fuel drips into the cylinders. Once the fuel has burned off its absolutely fine. If you haven't yet, send the injectors off for testing.
I would say MAF sensor as this takes air temp and volume in order to get the correct mixture, working along side the lambdas, can you not lend an ECU maybe from a breaker??
Video is still good content, because it is so honest and has happened ro everyone at some point fixing things. Was looking at hyundais with the same engine having the same problem, the N models seem more common than the kia gt, there are quite a few saying rhat it can be a battery issue, I can't remember if that's been checked.
You might check timing, because when you unplug VVT it “fixes” problem. Maybe for the cold start is a little bit off. VW cars like mine with a diesel engine (2.0 TDi common rail) have problems with warm starts when timing is just a little off. I changed mine timing belt in front of my mini garage and after change cold starts little rough, but after warming it doesnt start anymore. And then i decided to push the timing little back just 0.5 milimeters and its running like a champ. Maybe you will succseed. Sorry for my bad language and greetings from Slovakia. 👌🏻
If you still have access to the smoke testing machine try putting it up the exhaust tail pipe and block the other outlet and check round the exhaust manifold area for a tiny leak.if the engine has been swapped the old gaskets could of been reused and be dragging in air on cold start untill the thermal expansion expansion seals the leak.this can cause fueling issues.hope this helps mate.stick with it lad 👍🤞
When I had a p1111 misfire code on my Proceed GT, I replaced all the sensors. You still have 4 sensors that's original still two MAP sensors (on on intake and one of FMIC) and two cam position sensors. Also since its the updated engine, check if you have correct coil packs. Should plug your ecu scanner and start running live data. Also you should be running RON98 not ethanol blends. Need at least two full tanks to purge bad fuel or just drain the tank, if you have bad fuel you will be chasing ghosts forever.
2nd you or your gf should review my 307bhp 485nm car for under 3k message if interested and anyone who would like to know what it is like this comment and its not German!!!
Jesse, I thought you were onto a winner with the Crank sensor, don't forget there are cam position sensors also... I don't know these engines at all, but maybe look at the VVT system, especially if it uses oil pressure. These systems usually have a way of preventing oil leak off so cam timing won't be all over the place on a cold start. These systems also sometimes have a metal gauze filter also, which could need a clean.
Mate we watch these videos for you and what you do, the struggles make it more watchable in my opinion as it’s inspiring seeing you keeping at it when things go bad pal❤
I get the self criticism and that shows who you are as a person but honestly don’t beat yourself up about it. I don’t think people watch your channel for a fix every video. You are very entertaining and again this shows how REAL repairing a car on your driveway can be. A lot of good comments on this video regarding things you could do next. Alternatively you could run it until it’s warm and drop it to WBAC😂
Man, I’m hoping you don’t stop now. Been following you since the swap with the Pug. Love the content. Trust me I felt your pain each time you hit a dead end but I’m being hopeful there’s light at the end of the tunnel. ( please don’t take too long for next vid )
Get it nice and warm drive to some main dealerships and see what part exs they have. Sometimes they have cars that they haven’t sorted out for re sale and they are usually happy to get rid of them without them spending any labour or parts on the car. This has to be a good option for you in this situation ✌️ good luck
Hi Jesse, as a life long Vauxhall enthusiast I started watching you with the £150 Astra and now can't stop, nothing at all boring about your videos mate. The cooloing system obviously isn't correct for the engine fitted, might be worth changing the header tank and pipe with the filler cap on it, and connecting that blanked off pipe, are there any additional temp sensors in the correct pipework, are they in the same locations and the same type if nothing else it would help my OCD no end, couldn't live with that bolt in the coolant pipe lol, keep up the good work mate
Had a similar issue myself with a mk7 golf gti changed all injectors, hpfp, spark plugs, oil change I took it to a garage and they ran some tests on it but couldn’t find anything I decided to take a punt and change the low pressure fuel pump under the seats and it fixed it instantly.
Hats off to you mate it's great to see how far you've come been watching you for some time now (eBay turbo mx5) seeing you in this video was so relatable look forward to your uploads every week keep it up man
On older carbureted engines, it wasn’t unusual for a choke pull off to fail. It would run too rich when it’s cold, but be okay when it’s warm. For newer fuel injected engines, the oxygen sensor has to warm up before it can start working. Until that happens, the computer is running in open loop mode because it isn’t getting any feedback from the 02 sensor yet. It has to operate from a predetermined fuel map to tell it how much fuel the engine actually needs at that moment. It could be off a bit if the engine has some age on it or is running out of tune. Once the sensor warms up enough to start working, then the computer knows exactly how the air/fuel mixture is, and it can make corrections as necessary.
Try checking the live data on the timing while its on a cold start and watch what it does through to running normal. Its a long shot but if the chain has slipped a tooth it could be running default on cold start causing a missfire then the ecu is changing the timing through vvt to get it running without a missfire.
Can't believe the crank position sensor was so easily accessible, mine was buried behind starter motor on my astra so had to remove it for access then put blindly in the tiny hole . Was much easier years ago when you just pulled out the choke when first started. Keep persevering don't let it get to you too much. Honestly I have had many issues with my car but think I have finally got there now apart from a strange issue I haven't got to the bottom of yet , hopefully will soon as it drives me nuts although the kids find it amusing
Jessie your Kia seed with it having a miss fire could it be your exhaust under neath your car might have a whole in the exhaust might be causing the miss fire or it might be a faulty starting motor
If the engine was swapped, it clearly looks like the issue lies with that. A pipe leading to nowhere with a bolt in the end of it means that the engine doesn't belong in that car. Take it to Kia and see if they can do something with the ECU to make the car think that it has the original engine in.
The only thing it could be is a valve or a valve seat are slightly burnt or cracked, that won't necessarily come up on a compression or leak down test on startup there is slight overfueling and that will cause exhaust ignition as there is a tiny amount of mixture leaking in the exhaust before the valves and seats heat up and seal better
I had a Vauxhall Insignia 1.8 petrol with these exact symptoms as your Kia. Misfire on cold start and gone away within a minute. Spend thousands trying to fix them and at the end it was due to bad camshaft gear actuators. Changed both camshaft gears and fixed the issues then sold it and never bought a Vauxhall again!
keep your head up pal this is great content! were all rooting for you at this house! were all car guys and all racking our brains for you! have you tried exhaust sensors? when they are cold not having the right reading that clear when its warmed up? possible used part situation from the old engine? worth a shot bro!
Jesse i know you have probably checked these things but definitely consider possibly a slight coolant leak into the cylinders when sitting and obviously when you start up from cold start it burns off the small amount, also possibly even a fuel pump issue, if not enough fuel on cold start obviously will misfire, just sounds stupid simple but could possibly be something to check if it is going to save some money or even the car.
Hi Jesse, I’m sure you have had so many comments already regarding the issue in my opinion this is a fuelling issue a misfire on startup while cold due to a dump of fuel on cold start so it’s struggling to burn the fuel hence the misfire and the very black spark plugs you pulled out. Also the mention that you could smell fuel bad on one start up once it’s warm it’s managing to burn that excess without the obvious burble. But… not sure where this would come from as you’ve done injectors already. But keep up the good videos man love seeing them I was chasing a misfire on my car for weeks and was just a vacuum leak in the end
How about getting all the pipe work for the updated engine, you did say the expansion tank is different and one pipe did have a bolt in it, maybe a picture of the old engine and the new engine and see what’s different, could be a breather pipe for the air filter or a connector not connected, even the wiring loom could be slightly different, something so simple you have just overlooked, really enjoying the videos, keep up the good work you do.
I had the exact same issue turned out to be the engine coolant temp on the block. That was telling the car it was warm when it was a cold start but the fuel pump was fuelling for a cold start. Fixed the issue instantly.
I don't uselly comment but im in agreement here I was going suggest unplugging it see how it runs
This comment makes the most sense.
But Jesse you make the video/series a great watch. You've just been smashing it.
Change out the temp sensor
I once had a renault laguna that did the same thing, coolant temp sensor was broken and it ran horrible till it warmed up a bit.
I had a 2015 one and it never misfired for me in the 4 1/2 yrs I owned it! They definitely have a different sound on cold start like a lot of cars but thats very different to misfiring,I wish I could help more
Hi mate hate to say it but 3rd time I have mentioned removing the back seat and taking a look in the tank at the filter and the fuel, I see you have tried different but the fuel could be contaminated and settling in the filter when left. Please just inspect the fuel mate gota worth a shot. Hope you get it sorted. I know its annoying for you but it makes the series. Keep it up.
Get it on a dyno and do data logging, then get a custom map that doesn't over fuel the car on cold start up!!
Personally alot of the parts youve changed i wouldnt of touched untill right at the end after ive cleaned all the intake, throttle body and idle air control valve, new gaskets, then after a clean, its pcv & plugs if that doesnt work im thinking about o2 sensors and then finally ignition and the coils. Why dont you try taking off the throttle body get yourself a toothbrush and carb spray and scrub the lot, dismantle the idle air control valve and scrub that, i recently removed my throttle body on a 29 year old toyota trueno sprinter gtz done exactly what ive just said, new gaskets put it back together, cold start is miles better an idles like a champ, throttle response is instant to, worth a go cost a fiver for carb cleaner, good luck mate 😂👍🏻
I agree. Always worth cleaning the hell out of things. It's worked for me in the past on the throttle body
The videos aren't about the car anymore mate, it's about YOU, your grit and determination. It may be worth writing down in chronological order everything you've done, then mark when you discovered the engine wasn't correct. Then examine everything prior to that. As you've been working of information based on an original engine. Good luck with it and don't give up.
I hope Jesse reads this one because I feel exactly the same, his resilience is inspiring !!
I appreciate you guys 🙌🏼👊🏼
@@JesseCollingham remap it with more fuel. Had same problem
@@marospokuta9643 he needs to stop putting cheap parts on like a £6 PCV valve and expects it to run right. Chances are it’s something you’ve already changed you’ve just skimped out on budget parts that are a load of shite. Do it once do it right
This is a lesson in mindset and resilience. I’m sure this has been massively frustrating for you behind the scenes and yet you keep coming back with enthusiasm and ideas 💪
As Rocky once said, ‘it ain’t about how hard you can hit. It’s about how hard you can get hit and keep moving forward’.
Keep going.
Keep your head up Jesse. I think none of us watching you on this channel are bored of the content. We all felt your pain, especially when it got to the spark plugs. You're an honest and genuine home mechanic and we are all here to follow your journey until you get to your 150k car. You're doing a great job!!!
Honestly Jesse, I can't stress enough just how valuable taking it to the actual Kia main dealers and paying for a diagnostic can be. I have a renault trafic van and it had a problem where it absolutely refused to start when cold. I took it to 4 different garages, 2 of which were apparently renault specialists and nobody could fix it, they all wanted to me to throw tonnes of parts at it. Anyways, one day I got stranded at a local shopping centre, it wouldnt start at all, so I bit the bullet and towed it to my Renault dealer. I kid you not, I had barely gotten home when they rang me and had found the fault! A hair line crack in the cam sensor. nobody else found it but they did instantly. it cost me £80 for the diagnostic and was the best money I had ever spent! I promise you, take it to Kia, its no obligation, you dont have to get them to fix it, but paying their diagnostic fee is worth its weight in gold I promise you.
Very interesting! Might be a shout!
@@danny-couture sometimes when all hope is lost, the stealers can help you but the fact is he hasn't cleaned the basics, the intake, throttle body, idle air control valve or any o2 sensor, something somewhere is jammed with dirt or one of his o2 sensors is giving a false reading which is causing overfuelling and misfiring on cold.
Do you know if the ecu is the right 1 for that engine, if its not been changed it might have slightly different characteristics. Just a thought.
@@JesseCollinghamwhat else you got left to lose, you’ve gone this far might actually keep that smile on ya face 😂
Cold start temperature switch? Or is there an automatic choke?
Hi Jesse, can you check if the software in the ECU for the 2017 car is the same as a 2013. The later car would probably have a GPF which means the fuel trims would be different on start up. May be worth checking lamnda sensors as well because it may over fuel if not reading correct. Best of luck.....
Personally I would get either a new ecu to match the newer engine sorted, or current ecu mapped to newer ecu values to match the newer engine
I reckon this also 💯.. ECU and bcm won't read the engine with it been newer engine.. not right with that bolt and clip been on a coolent clamp like 😂
@br4nd0n3ssketit8 it wouldn't just misfire on Cold start though mate it would miss all the time
@@ricklufc ECU needs time to read sensors and readjust adaptation.. fuel to air % ,, with been similar ECU it can correct itself once warmer Nd had longer to read ,, dunno with kias ECU Nd engine truth .. but that coolent pipe definitely not helping not normal that gotta be fixed
Anyone else find the hand waving around a bit weird? Just me 😂 do enjoy them though very down to earth! Keep it up
I find the hand waving deeply irritating and unnecessary……but I’m still watching 😂
Yeah it’s very annoying.
As is the constant use of the word "actually "
Talks with his hands constantley.
He needs one of those hands on a stick to wave about
Hi I am from Kenya 🇰🇪 living in Qatar 🇧🇭. Following up with your Kia problems. I think I can help you with a few tips 1- Bad fuel injector system 2-If water is in the fuel system that often gets trapped in the fuel injector can cause misfire 3- Fuel pressure sensor make sure it's working correctly 4- The low pressure fuel pump that's located in the fuel tank.5- ECU I hope it's help🙏🏾🙏🏾
Maybe look at the internal fuel pump in the tank? The i20n has same type of engine and they have had issue with rough idle then eventually not starting and it's ended up being the internal fuel pump. Not sayin it will fix ur issue but just worth a look
@Jesse Collingham
Try replacing the Purge Valve (its not the PCV valve), if the Purge Valve is always open then fumes from the fuel tank can enrich the air/fuel mix and cause starting problems, that valve is meant to be closed on cold start and then opens once the car warms up after a few minutes, maybe worth a try ? you should be able to test it by just unplugging the hose that is connected to the valve on a cold start.
I commented a few videos back about the fuel filters on these 'gelling' up, personally I think it's a fueling issue at cold, I would fit a new fuel filter, test the fuel pressure on completely cold engine, then retest fuel pressure after it's been run and sat for a little bit
I would bet the engine is clogged up with carbon and needs a engine flush.. GDI engine are even more prone to this and will make the engine misfire..it,s not that expensive to do ..use liquid molly and see..worth a try I think.
@@johnthestrongguy car runs great it's only on a cold start, if engine was choked up it would run rough, poor acceleration, poor idle when warm, cost a bomb in fuel, this is not the issue, I believe he has a dirty idle air control valve and dirty o2 sensors, when the idle air control valve is not maintained, it causes rough idle, overfuelling, choked up exhaust and causes the o2 sensors to go black, thus giving of terrible readings, its a domino effect.
Jesse, you need to put these videos out. This is your journey and this is why we invested our time watching your journey so keep it up. We’re here watching you. It’s not boring this what happens in life so keep the videos coming.
Hi Jesse, been scrolling through comments on last video and seen a KIA tech posted about new and old engine coil pack design aswell as wiring differences.
May be worth revisiting that and checking due to you having a newer engine on possibly older wiring.
Regards
Marcin
I am curious if Jesse has seen this message here and in the previous video 👍
O2 sensors.
You have two, the first is to check the air / fuel ratio pre cat and is used to fine tune the fueling.
Basically the ECU measures the amount of air entering the throttle bodies and the fuel map determines how much fuel is added ( fuel / air ratio) at different RPM. This map also changes with engine temperature.
The way the ECU adds this set amount of fuel is by opening the injectors for a certain amount of time which will be in the right ball park.
However it won't be spot on so the O2 sensor let's the ECU know if it went to rich or too lean and by how much.
The ECU then makes a note of this adjustment and saves it as a fuel trim I.e. it will add or remove this amount of fuel to correct the mix.
So how does this relate to a cold start?
Well O2 sensors don't start working until they've warmed up. So on cold start if the car is rich or lean the ECU doesn't know until the O2 warms up and starts monitoring.
So given you have the "wrong" engine my theory would be that the fuel map is not right for your engine. So the fueling will be permanently wrong, but also be continuously corrected by the O2 sensors which will mask the issue. But not on a cold start because as above the O2 sensor hasn't kicked in yet.
This makes perfect sense! Before you give up J, reach out to a rolling road and get a custom map for the car. This would alleviate some if not Al of the issue as you can program the fuelling manually
I agree , had similar cold start on other cars and was dirty/ old O2 sensor
As someone who owns a Kia I would honestly say don’t touch them! Nightmare to get parts for but one thing I have noticed is the biggest issue is the fuel filters soon as their ever so slightly dirty it’ll go in limp mode or run like crap on cold starts/ all together
I have a 2014 ceed gt tech and I had a very similar issue. Spent money changing parts I didn’t need to, plugs, coils, intake solenoid, exhaust solenoid, cam shaft sensor, crank shaft sensor when all along the problem was the ground wire that goes from the ecu to the intake solenoid was broke. The whole problem was about £2 worth of wire.
The idea of trading up to one side, I personally am just enthralled in your story and the way you go about finding the problems. Keep it up and don’t give up. 🤞🤞
Calvin 100% sat here with his popcorn doing a sinister evil laugh 😂, all jokes aside genuinely this could turn into a massive money pit 😳 is it time to go back to go forward?
You are wrong Jesse - this is authentic content , real life scenarios that we all relate - dont give up the task now is to resolve it - see if you can get assistance from Kia - keep up the good work mate I’m enjoying the series 👏🏿
Iv recently only subscribed from seeing you on Calvin's video and tbh it's good content don't get disheartened because the knowledge you are gaining AND also sharing is priceless, keep at it.
How about fitting the newer reservoir, the coolant filler blank and connect up the blanked off pipe?
They isn’t a sensor or anything going to that pipe, plus with the other owner having the same issue I don’t think it’s anything to do with the swap
Idle control valve
@@JesseCollingham cat might be cracked
@@tooshay34 I've just read that it could be this too
All right bud the only thing I can think of is the air intake temperature (IAT) sensor. There’s a vids on how to test with a voltage meter. Never seen you change the fuel filter either lol. Em is the in tank fuel pump or called high lift pump all right if there is one? Just a couple of more things to check for you. You’ll get it fixed bud just think of the end goal it’s no easy to get a super car. Take it easy bud
Change ecu 😊 the old ecu for previous engine is still in car am I right ? Looking and the newer ecu are different number. You pretty much changed everything else. Best of luck hope you sort it 👍
This is a prime example of always follow your gut remember you wanted to take the S3 😂 Calvin advised you on the Kia loool
Jesse, This is you're best video, you have shown tremendous grit, determination and true character, you deserve a successful channel. Keep up the great work, keep pressing and pushing for excellence, I have just witnessed a glint of Legend! All the best, every success!!
What type of hat were you wearing?
Sounds more like you're smoking the skunk @@Brain_Juice
@@waynelewis5656
Well done for gaining a relationship with the Master Tech at Kia, as a car trader I have been doing this for a while and they are the knes who end up giving the best and correct advice 👌
Just opened my window….. I can actually hear Calvin still laughing at you
Jesse lad I don't normally have any interest in car content on UA-cam but your will and showing the true side to theses problems got us hooked. I would also say take to main dealer for a diagnostic I no its more money but you never no sometimes they can come up gold. Ether way keep your chin up big man
Have yoi considered the map. If the engines are different, the map or software could also be wrong.
Is there a cold start valve on the throttle body, is that stuck or does the throttle body need a clean etc?
My stepdad had an audi S3 with cold start issues and it was a dirty throttle.body preventing the valve closing properly, messing up the Air Fuel ratio.
Yep i just fixed mine on my 29 year old toyota, idle air control valve full of crap causing it to stick, send incorrect readings and overfuelling
Jesse, this never give up attitude for the Kia is why I'm watching your videos! Your aha moment while driving about the fuel quality is actually a good guess. I agree with you that an engine should not function like that and never say that it is normal to misfire. If it is not an ECU firmware bug as some have suggested in the previous video, then you may want to check if there is a fuel tank breather valve for this engine. I have a 1.5L 2015 Mini Cooper that has misfire idling like your KIA but only when hot and is normal when cold. The exact opposite. You may like to check that valve too. Anyway, I'll be disappointed if you decide to give up or just swap it as-is with another. You must have most likely moved on but it would be awesome to know what it really was that had caused the misfire.
Great work again mate but such a shame. If that was my car it would have been in the river Trent ages ago 👍🏻
Calvin sold you a proper lemon 😂
Not going to lie I’d try swopping the ECU or something like that, and tbh if it was mine I wouldn’t even be bothered if it starts like that from cold, as long as when it’s warm the misfire goes away I wouldn’t be bothered
Jesse mate. I can hear the frustration in your voice. I’m so invested in this and I really feel for you. Keep going man, it’ll be worth it in the end. Bring on the supercar!
Think you might be overlooking the previous video where you figured out the ECU is for the old engine. You’ve already figured out there’s differences in the engine, different plugs for example. So the file for the control over fueling, ignition etc will be different. Would be like dropping a K24 in a K20 car on stock K20 ECU. It isn’t going to run 100% but it would run.
Get the car properly tuned to this engine. A proper tuner will also be able to look into fueling and ignition with data logs and see what the fucks actually going on 👍
@@liamkaizen4785 this. Literally this. If it isn't fuelling correctly at cold start (which is usually mapped to run rich initially) it will misfire. I have a strong feeling this will fix the misfire
I've been saying the same old ECU cold start fueling is different
Bang on, was thinking this when he first mentioned it.
Problem is I bet some where along the line who ever changed the engine also kept some of the old parts. Maybe a sensor some where. So I don’t even think getting the ECU from the new engine would even help. This cars probably more of a “Frankenstein” of the 2 engines in one. Hence why he’s got the rad cap etc.
So literally I reckon the only way to sort this is a proper custom tune to this specific car, with these specific parts.
You know it runs. Drives. Absolutely fine. Just needs a tune I bet 👍
hes been too focused on stressing over things and just making the content that he is overlooking things especially if he answered them himself, but did nothing about. anyways it seems once the car is warmed up the performance and driving isnt effected, so if thats the case the minor misfire like sounds on a cold start is borderline irrelevant. id just not worry about it unless its noticeable on the move.
I know you been struggling with this but just want to say iv just started watching because of the proceed GT my misses usto have one. There a good little car (hers didnt have this issue). However, i have watched every video since the first one and will continue to keep watching. Its much better watching you try and fail and it being genuine. The content is top notch mate despite your struggle.
What a video Jesse brilliant editing skills you had my edge of my seat fantastic content mate can't wait for your next installment
Just finished watching this. I have a 2011 Merc C220. It’s got some issues. DPF blocked. Possibly injectors warn. It’s diesel but still think some new plugs wouldn’t go a miss. Unlocking and locking the car is temperamental by fob.
Diagnostics also pick up something about rear seat belt.
Sensor in front bumper fell in so have to turn off sensors at the moment.
Front bumper slightly different shade to the rest of the car.
There is a legit story why I had to get this car in April this year. The car ran well for 2 wks before it started messing around. Even tho that’s miss firing still I feel I would pay u for all the parts you’ve put into it as well as my car.
Legend, always look forward to watching your latest videos
Aww man I’m gutted for you I was so intrigued to see if you’d sorted it my emotions were all over the shop watching this!
Stick at it man I’m sure there is a solution there somewhere keeping everything crossed 🤞loving the content
If that’s not the problem I would be looking into the software differences and getting the changes altered
Fuelling for sure, do these have a valve that controls the idle because I’ve had that a few times go wrong, also worth checking all spades and contacts (check ecu contacts too) make sure everything is clean and not rusty or connected badly, any sensors that control fuel or air are worth testing/changing. I’d also do some fuelling tests on it to make sure levels are where they are supposed to be, take out fuel pumps pressure test system etc. Check throttle sensors etc too. I want you to get to the bottom of it I know it’s not the most exciting content but I’m quite enjoying your pain mate😂only joking but I am enjoying watching you go through the motions with it though. Keep at it mate, we’re all behind you on it.
Next time I think you should get a proper diagnosis and find the issue instead of throwing parts at a car which a lot of people do (swap-a-nostics lol), it will save you a lot of time and money.
Definitely not boring content...troubleshooting like this is valuable and great content...This gets loads of views, Maybe frustrating for you too but for the viewer it makes for great watching....
Like i said on your last video , shifting metal had same issue with a citreon c4 , only way to repair it is change the engine to correct one as, shifting metal tried everything possible even customising ecu which didnt work
Thanks Calvin
On my bimmer I had a rough cold start that was caused by a faulty fuel filter heater. I replaced the fuel filter heater and the problem was still there. It turns out that the fault had blown a fuse. Worth checking to see if your car has something similar. Good luck and keep the faith
Jesse don’t give up. People would watch another 10 episodes to see it
Get fixed.
For me I would say what is wrong with that vehicle is the idle speed start up.
Most modern cars don’t start up and tick over straight away. They start up and rev to
Like 1000rpm for so many seconds then work
Back down to an idle.
Maybe be yours has been mapped out.
Or look at the air flow meter readings from start up cold and start up warm. It might be calculating the amount of air wrong and over fuelling.
Dude my bet is that the issue is due to it being a direct injection (GDi) engine. The valves and runners are probably caked in carbon due to the injectors not spraying onto them and cleaning them. On direct injection the injectors spray directly into the bore. This (the carbon buildup) is maybe causing incomplete combustion when it’s cold. When you said you could smell fuel it was a lightbulb moment. worth a shot!! I had this issue before on a ford.
He should have looked at the valves/ports when he had the inlet off, the pcv fail and cause problems with these plus GDI suffer low speed pre ignition you even need to run a specific oil that helps with lspi. This has all been covered in the comments on his other vids
Had me on edge the whole video 🫢🫢🫢🫢🫢
I personally would change the ecu to one that matches the newer engine if a spark plaug has changed from old to
New the map in the ecu mignt be different aswell as the old engines might of needed more fuel sent in to start
Should have just took calvins S3 jesse 😂
Don’t give up lad. All the effort has not gone to waste. Just think about all the stuff you learnt going through that struggle.
Anyway, something you can try for free, get your diagnostic tool and read all the various temperature sensors on the car when cold. Have a look to see if any look odd or don’t match what is expected. Then turn the car on whilst monitoring each reading to see how it changes. I’m hopeful you would see something.
Since the issue happens on cold start, all temperature sensors on the car need checking. Figures crossed you get to the bottom of it.
Don't give up Jesse this is what the channel is all about, i feel your frustration and i totally understand it needs to be cost effective to carry on but your going to hit a few potholes on the road ahead towards your supercar. Looking forward to the next episode.🤞🤞👍👍
Jesse, fantastic videos and very informative. We like the investigation side of things and can learn a thing or two from you when dealing with our own cars. For years I was Into the salvage channels on here but now I find myself not watching them and waiting on your videos.
calvin dodged a bullet 😅
He’d have just gave it away on his planet of dreams thing
Get decent coilpacks, i swapped mine for Lucas 2 years ago , with ngk heat range 7 plugs and it runs sweet
Get the new engine coded into ecu and flash the newr engines map onto it
And a completely new map would help aswell like get it remapped
Totally agree i think a free coding is the problem
@@PeterTaylor-b3t100% new engine needed coded in but a full remap would clean up the cold start aswell
I 100% agree I said this in the previous video
Jesse, I haven't followed the whole series with this kia but have you replaced the injectors? I come from the n54 bmw world and I had similar issues. The injectors are notorious for leaking when sat and fuel drips into the cylinders. Once the fuel has burned off its absolutely fine. If you haven't yet, send the injectors off for testing.
I would say MAF sensor as this takes air temp and volume in order to get the correct mixture, working along side the lambdas, can you not lend an ECU maybe from a breaker??
The ecu will be coded to the key and clocks to the car not a simple swap
Video is still good content, because it is so honest and has happened ro everyone at some point fixing things.
Was looking at hyundais with the same engine having the same problem, the N models seem more common than the kia gt, there are quite a few saying rhat it can be a battery issue, I can't remember if that's been checked.
pissing in the wind
You might check timing, because when you unplug VVT it “fixes” problem. Maybe for the cold start is a little bit off. VW cars like mine with a diesel engine (2.0 TDi common rail) have problems with warm starts when timing is just a little off. I changed mine timing belt in front of my mini garage and after change cold starts little rough, but after warming it doesnt start anymore. And then i decided to push the timing little back just 0.5 milimeters and its running like a champ. Maybe you will succseed. Sorry for my bad language and greetings from Slovakia. 👌🏻
Calvin done him up like a kipper
the old cockeny twist
If you still have access to the smoke testing machine try putting it up the exhaust tail pipe and block the other outlet and check round the exhaust manifold area for a tiny leak.if the engine has been swapped the old gaskets could of been reused and be dragging in air on cold start untill the thermal expansion expansion seals the leak.this can cause fueling issues.hope this helps mate.stick with it lad 👍🤞
Eyyy up!, been waiting on an update, im getting one of these 🕺
why would u get a kia shitbox after watching this video lol
@@andalinocoranal7578 their decent reliable cars, he's just got a car thats faulty an he can't find the issue that's all
@@andalinocoranal7578exactly, wot a pile of shit this is!🙉🙉😬😬🙈👎👎👎👎🇬🇧🇿🇦🇿🇦🇿🇦🇿🇦
Kias are decent reliable cars, Jesse has bought a car with an issue he's trying to solve, still a good car
@@iLouieTube Theyre really not, get something german if you want reliability with performance
When I had a p1111 misfire code on my Proceed GT, I replaced all the sensors. You still have 4 sensors that's original still two MAP sensors (on on intake and one of FMIC) and two cam position sensors. Also since its the updated engine, check if you have correct coil packs. Should plug your ecu scanner and start running live data. Also you should be running RON98 not ethanol blends. Need at least two full tanks to purge bad fuel or just drain the tank, if you have bad fuel you will be chasing ghosts forever.
2nd you or your gf should review my 307bhp 485nm car for under 3k message if interested and anyone who would like to know what it is like this comment and its not German!!!
Test drive my 307bhp jaguar xf 307bhp for 3k video
I don’t do car reviews mate
@JesseCollingham surely he has to be trolling
Be careful brother, sounds like a scammer?😬😬🙈🙈💀👀👀👀🤝🇬🇧🇿🇦🇿🇦🇿🇦🇿🇦@@JesseCollingham
Probably a bot @@JesseCollingham
Keep smashing the content man, it's still super enjoyable to watch. Shows how much you've grown!
Avoid Binca then......
Again, I chose this car.
Jesse, I thought you were onto a winner with the Crank sensor, don't forget there are cam position sensors also...
I don't know these engines at all, but maybe look at the VVT system, especially if it uses oil pressure. These systems usually have a way of preventing oil leak off so cam timing won't be all over the place on a cold start.
These systems also sometimes have a metal gauze filter also, which could need a clean.
1st
addicted to this series!
It could also be as you said , it’s a normal cold start up thing 🤷🏻♂️
Mate we watch these videos for you and what you do, the struggles make it more watchable in my opinion as it’s inspiring seeing you keeping at it when things go bad pal❤
100% check the maf and lambda sensors! They are vital for ensuring the correct fueling. I'd almost place money that is causing most of this issue
I get the self criticism and that shows who you are as a person but honestly don’t beat yourself up about it. I don’t think people watch your channel for a fix every video. You are very entertaining and again this shows how REAL repairing a car on your driveway can be. A lot of good comments on this video regarding things you could do next. Alternatively you could run it until it’s warm and drop it to WBAC😂
Man, I’m hoping you don’t stop now. Been following you since the swap with the Pug. Love the content. Trust me I felt your pain each time you hit a dead end but I’m being hopeful there’s light at the end of the tunnel. ( please don’t take too long for next vid )
Get it nice and warm drive to some main dealerships and see what part exs they have. Sometimes they have cars that they haven’t sorted out for re sale and they are usually happy to get rid of them without them spending any labour or parts on the car. This has to be a good option for you in this situation ✌️ good luck
Hi Jesse, as a life long Vauxhall enthusiast I started watching you with the £150 Astra and now can't stop, nothing at all boring about your videos mate.
The cooloing system obviously isn't correct for the engine fitted, might be worth changing the header tank and pipe with the filler cap on it, and connecting that blanked off pipe, are there any additional temp sensors in the correct pipework, are they in the same locations and the same type if nothing else it would help my OCD no end, couldn't live with that bolt in the coolant pipe lol, keep up the good work mate
Had a similar issue myself with a mk7 golf gti changed all injectors, hpfp, spark plugs, oil change I took it to a garage and they ran some tests on it but couldn’t find anything I decided to take a punt and change the low pressure fuel pump under the seats and it fixed it instantly.
Hats off to you mate it's great to see how far you've come been watching you for some time now (eBay turbo mx5) seeing you in this video was so relatable look forward to your uploads every week keep it up man
On older carbureted engines, it wasn’t unusual for a choke pull off to fail.
It would run too rich when it’s cold, but be okay when it’s warm.
For newer fuel injected engines, the oxygen sensor has to warm up before it can start working.
Until that happens, the computer is running in open loop mode because it isn’t getting any feedback from the 02 sensor yet.
It has to operate from a predetermined fuel map to tell it how much fuel the engine actually needs at that moment.
It could be off a bit if the engine has some age on it or is running out of tune.
Once the sensor warms up enough to start working, then the computer knows exactly how the air/fuel mixture is, and it can make corrections as necessary.
Try checking the live data on the timing while its on a cold start and watch what it does through to running normal. Its a long shot but if the chain has slipped a tooth it could be running default on cold start causing a missfire then the ecu is changing the timing through vvt to get it running without a missfire.
Can't believe the crank position sensor was so easily accessible, mine was buried behind starter motor on my astra so had to remove it for access then put blindly in the tiny hole . Was much easier years ago when you just pulled out the choke when first started. Keep persevering don't let it get to you too much. Honestly I have had many issues with my car but think I have finally got there now apart from a strange issue I haven't got to the bottom of yet , hopefully will soon as it drives me nuts although the kids find it amusing
Jessie your Kia seed with it having a miss fire could it be your exhaust under neath your car might have a whole in the exhaust might be causing the miss fire or it might be a faulty starting motor
Idle control valve Jesse, we've had the same problem on a few Hyundai models!!!
Oh don’t do this to me, I’m still drunk from the last video, taking a shot every time you say actually
Credit goes to Calvin. I am 100% sure he gave you a Content machine. He is a legend. keep it up lad ❤️
If the engine was swapped, it clearly looks like the issue lies with that. A pipe leading to nowhere with a bolt in the end of it means that the engine doesn't belong in that car. Take it to Kia and see if they can do something with the ECU to make the car think that it has the original engine in.
The only thing it could be is a valve or a valve seat are slightly burnt or cracked, that won't necessarily come up on a compression or leak down test on startup there is slight overfueling and that will cause exhaust ignition as there is a tiny amount of mixture leaking in the exhaust before the valves and seats heat up and seal better
I had a Vauxhall Insignia 1.8 petrol with these exact symptoms as your Kia. Misfire on cold start and gone away within a minute. Spend thousands trying to fix them and at the end it was due to bad camshaft gear actuators. Changed both camshaft gears and fixed the issues then sold it and never bought a Vauxhall again!
keep your head up pal this is great content! were all rooting for you at this house! were all car guys and all racking our brains for you! have you tried exhaust sensors? when they are cold not having the right reading that clear when its warmed up? possible used part situation from the old engine? worth a shot bro!
Jesse i know you have probably checked these things but definitely consider possibly a slight coolant leak into the cylinders when sitting and obviously when you start up from cold start it burns off the small amount, also possibly even a fuel pump issue, if not enough fuel on cold start obviously will misfire, just sounds stupid simple but could possibly be something to check if it is going to save some money or even the car.
Hi Jesse, I’m sure you have had so many comments already regarding the issue in my opinion this is a fuelling issue a misfire on startup while cold due to a dump of fuel on cold start so it’s struggling to burn the fuel hence the misfire and the very black spark plugs you pulled out. Also the mention that you could smell fuel bad on one start up once it’s warm it’s managing to burn that excess without the obvious burble. But… not sure where this would come from as you’ve done injectors already. But keep up the good videos man love seeing them I was chasing a misfire on my car for weeks and was just a vacuum leak in the end
How about getting all the pipe work for the updated engine, you did say the expansion tank is different and one pipe did have a bolt in it, maybe a picture of the old engine and the new engine and see what’s different, could be a breather pipe for the air filter or a connector not connected, even the wiring loom could be slightly different, something so simple you have just overlooked, really enjoying the videos, keep up the good work you do.
Hope you know that these videos are informative to people who have the same trouble for a long time. Also it is very entertaining series and love it.