since the drawers are able to pull out on either side you could recess some magnets in the sides of the drawers and the side of the cabinet to keep them from being pushed back in too far and prevent them from sliding while being moved. Great simple build Bob!
I like the idea of the drawers being completely removable from both sides. You could also add countersunk magnets to hold them in place and let you know when they’re pushed all the way in.
Was going to suggest the exact same thing. That'll give you a nice stop so you don't push it in slightly too far and have it stick out the other end which would drive me crazy.
Rouverius Agreed, after all you have to use it and look at it for a long time, so I believe it should be as nice as you can make it, With the same ethic it won’t be long before the shop has a good look about it too.
Love this, It's giving me tons of ideas for my own kitchen islands ! Quick note : In my studio, I also suffer from a quite uneven floor. The only way I found around it is for heavy things to have three points of contact with the ground instead of four or even a surface. Thank you Bob and keep up the great work :)
2 cents worth of tips: some small rubber feet would make it rest without damaging the bottom wood; neodymium magnets built into the drawers could help them line up and "lock" in place inside the frame. ;)
Well done. If I may add a tip, you can get away with using only 1 of the stepper casters. Add feet to the same side and on the opp side, use cheap stationary casters that lock. This isn’t “better” than what bob did, just another option.
That won't hold the cart enough pushing leather work through (small foot print of a cart and too light). Only works when you are pushing perpendicular of the wheels. A lot of table saws have this pivot wheel with stationary wheels on the other side.
Lots of interesting tips and tricks in this vid, I just wish I had a workshop big enough to warrant putting things on wheels! The bloopers are a highlight, I look forward to them in every video.
Good Idea. I think i'm going to make one. Since i always wasting time for walking just to take some tools and put the tools back and take it again, again and again. It's a good job, and a simple design to build. Really great ideas, great job. Thank you.
Nice cart! Love the colors, and the hardwood edging for durability. The filler over the screw heads has a sort of dowel look to them. Interesting extension wheels, don't think I've seen those. A shop-made option for extending/retracting wheels that operates from one pedal/latch in front, is also pretty easy to make (you just have to work out dimensions for your cart and wheel size, but a bit of trial and error will get you there): Construct the cabinet so it has a boxed-in 'skirt' around the bottom (i.e., mount the bottom shelf a few inches up from the bottom of the sides and back, then add a toe-kick panel in front, inset or not as you prefer). (Optionally, you can make a separate skirt and wheel assembly the same width and depth as the cabinet, and attach it to the bottom of the cabinet. This may be the better option while working out the dimensions, so you don't have to make adjustments to the cabinet itself. The remainder of this description assumes the skirt is part of the cabinet.) Construct the wheel assembly by cutting a piece of plywood the size of the bottom opening, then cut that into 2 equal pieces so you have a front half and a back half, and re-join the halves with 2 hinges. Also cut an inch or so from one side of the front half plywood piece, and align the 2 pieces on one side (not centered) when attaching the 2 hinges. Mount 4 swivel wheels (not the locking type) on the bottom of the plywood near the 4 corners. Attach a lever/handle on the back plywood piece, on its underneath side, on the side edge where the front panel is shorter, so that the lever misses the front piece as it travels up and down, and points forward, projecting out of the front of the cabinet through a slot you must cut in the toe-kick and shelf to allow the lever to travel (3 1/2 sides of the shelf attached to the cart should be sufficient, but if it does sag under load, a vertical 'strap' piece of plywood can always connect the cut/slot corner of this shelf up to the next shelf to support that corner). Mount two 2x2 cleats on the inside of the skirt, the full width of the cabinet, one in front, one in back, up against the underneath surface of the shelf. The plywood wheel assembly's front and back edges will push up on these cleats to raise the cabinet, as you step on the lever to lower it and flatten the wheel assembly. The wheel assembly itself does not need to be attached to the cleats, but can remain loose under the skirt. When the lever is pushed down with your foot, flattening the plywood wheel assembly, this causes all 4 wheels to extend down a half inch or so below the edge of the skirt, raising the cabinet up by the front and back plywood edges pushing on the cleats. When the lever is raised, the wheel assembly hinges up in the middle, causing the wheels to retract up inside the skirt, allowing the cabinet to sit on the skirt. No 'pulling up' of the lever is necessary. The weight of the cabinet will cause the wheels to roll to the center, causing the wheel assembly to angle up in the middle on its hinges, raising the lever to the top of its travel. The dimensions for the height of the skirt and how far inside from the front and back edges to place the wheels, will depend on the size of the cabinet, the size of the wheels (larger ones will need either a taller skirt or to be set further in from the front and back edges, or both) and how far up you want the front end of the lever to travel. But bear in mind you only need to extend the wheels about a half inch out the bottom of the skirt to roll it around, and when lowered, the wheels only need to be up just inside the skirt to not touch the floor. On the front end of the lever, attach a pivoting pedal piece with a nail or other through pin for the pivot, so that the pedal can rock and engage a stop/latch piece that you attach to the front edge of the cabinet side, near the bottom of the lever's travel. Step on the pedal while it's near the top of its travel, and push the lever down to raise the cabinet, then rock/pivot the pedal in a bit to engage its edge under the stop piece, to keep the lever down and the cabinet raised. Step on the pedal again and pivot it to disengage it from the stop, and let the lever go up to the top end of its travel, to retract the wheels and let the cabinet sit on its skirt.
Nice build, Bob. Kudos for doing something that I've yet to see other builder/makers do and that is using your left hand to pull the sliding miter saw when the cut is on the left side. Most guys use an arm crossover which just has the potential to have a bad day. I've heard the excuses, but a catch or jump is gonna be life changing.
An idea it gave me is to have shelf organizer for plywood. That way when someone buys materials and have extra pieces they can put the pieces in safe and secure location.
Those walnut accent strips really went a long way to making it look finished. I might make something similar to use the space under the table saw wing more efficiently. Thanks!
Question: why not add a bar between the wheel/castor levers so instead of having to push both down one after the other you could just push down the bar?
Nice, I have a drill press cart I haven't finished with, it's built using a cheap supermarket flatpack shelving unit that we had spare and one of those drill press units for a normal electric handdrill. I've been trying to figure out the best way to finish it up, and you've given me some good ideas. Thanks.
I've never done leather work, but I have to guess that you may end up buying/getting more tools for it. I can see drawer dividers being added to help keep it organized. Looks great.
Bob, you could use a couple of spring loaded captured ball-bearings or those door catches to ensure the drawer is lined up when you push it in regardless of the side. I mention this you seemed to prefer it to line up as when you we pushing it away. Just a suggestion and keep creating great stuff. I'm envious of your workshop.
You may have done this, I either put BLUE (not red) Liquid Locknut or a plastic insert nuts on everything that could come loose, 'cause I don't want to find out when the big honkin sewing machine falls off. Also, I'd consider putting a 'back' on the shelf with the marble slab to give more resistance to racking. You have two small ones at the product shelf but they are at the bottom. If everyone pushes from the front or back, no problem, however with the big honkin sewing machine on the top if the unit was pushed sideways up against a stop the machine would want to keep going (inertia) while the bottom would stop. I have a tendency to "idiot proof" things to make them last longer. Good job! I've been looking for a way to do something like this.
I´m thinking about customize my art/craft/nail room, I´ve been having a rough time finding furniture that works for my space and for what I need, after watching you for some time now, I´ve decided to just do it myself :) (with some help from my brother who has all the tools and stuff, plus he knows more about this than I do ((for now)) and it´s always better to have two brains rather than one lol) I´ve learn a lot just by watching you, I´m not new to woodwork, we were using hammers and nails before we could ride a bike so ;D So thank you for the inspiration :) ❤️
You're pretty great at what ever you take up, so I don't presume to tell you what you should do... that said if you create 3 points of contact on the bottom of your cabinet it will always (within reason) set flat on the floor without rocking when the "coasters" are lifted. Great video Bud👍
As always loved the project, only had one idea. Maybe putting a flat bar connecting the locks for the castors so you don’t have to actuate all four. Edge banding looked real good. Does the cart have enough weight, even with the granite, to be stable when using the sewing machine?
Great build man, I'm a bit concerned (for you of course) that the top compartment will sag under the weight of that slab and will make the first drawer hard to open. Also the weight of the machine (looks like cast iron) will have the same effect on the top surface. Perhaps adding a thin metal sheet to both surfaces will help alleviate the stress and prevents from sagging. Thanks for sharing!
Another great build video. Thanks! Speaking of upcycling, I purchased a similar piece from a salvage store for $10. It did need a bit of TLC but that was fun to do.
It's a good thing I'm not your neighbor...I would forever be hanging around asking, "hey, waddya doing?". You have one brain I would love to pick! Thank you for making these videos easy to follow yet entertaining at the same time!
The combination of a granite slab, and the solid steel sewing machine, makes this build look quite top-heavy. Combined with a high height for its base area and rolling casters, then you might get balance issues.
After installing the casters I would have to put a ‘side’ cabinet or something because the caster poking out would drive me nuts (short drive) awesome build and I love project specific work centers. I have one for oil testing tribology and ppm analysis at work and one for advanced machine diagnostics like vibration Spectrum analysis to infrared, ultra sonic and more. It’s nice to have a box to run out and do a job.
For those Casters, If the foot pedal is metal you could weld a bar across it(or test it out with zip ties at least) so that you only had to lift/ push down one thing on each side instead of two on each side. Just a suggestion. Awesome video though! Great Job!
Great build! I love the simplicity and the Walnut is a very nice touch. Here's a random idea- maybe mount a bar or block of sorts between the caster handles. Then you could lift with your foot and not have to bend over to every single caster. Just an idea🤷🏻♂️ Love your work!
Nice build. As long as the cabinet isn't too heavy, you might consider putting a piece of flat stock or angle iron to connect the foot levers of the casters. You could raise a whole side at a time instead of a corner.
you should make a Rolling upright Computer Desk that looks like a Cabinet on wheels that has storage for a laptop (or tower ) and printer ... my dad eons ago (mid 80s ) built 1 with a slide out tray and had 2 shelves below for storage and had some nice detailed doors (with a clear coat to bring out the wood ) it was a great idea even rolled on carpet decently
This is perfect! just what I was looking for! I have a 45cm hole under my workbench that I have been looking to get a rolling toolcart for a while. I prob would have bought one if i would have found one with the right dimensions. But this looks just great. I just need some other wheels, so it will be fit inside that hole! :)
You could weld a single rod across two tabs on one side so that you don't have to specifically push/pull 4 castors down every time you change their position. Alternatively, it could be a wooden 2x4, instead of a metal rod, with holes drilled in the metal tabs
since the drawers are able to pull out on either side you could recess some magnets in the sides of the drawers and the side of the cabinet to keep them from being pushed back in too far and prevent them from sliding while being moved. Great simple build Bob!
I like the idea of the drawers being completely removable from both sides. You could also add countersunk magnets to hold them in place and let you know when they’re pushed all the way in.
Oooh, that's a great idea.
Was going to suggest the exact same thing. That'll give you a nice stop so you don't push it in slightly too far and have it stick out the other end which would drive me crazy.
Yet so simple and efficient! :)
wow i clearly did not read your comment before posting mine. haha
I'm not sure you'd be able to feel the magnets with a loaded drawer.
That walnut edging is a really nice touch.
Hey, no reason shop furniture can't look good too!
With you on that :)
Rouverius Agreed, after all you have to use it and look at it for a long time, so I believe it should be as nice as you can make it, With the same ethic it won’t be long before the shop has a good look about it too.
"hi, I'm Bob the builder"
I never stopped watching this guy
Mee toooo
Watch April Wilkerson also....killer shop....
Love the contrast of the walnut/plywood, the extra detail is 100% worth it. I've never seen a sewing machine of that type before. Very cool.
Love this, It's giving me tons of ideas for my own kitchen islands !
Quick note : In my studio, I also suffer from a quite uneven floor. The only way I found around it is for heavy things to have three points of contact with the ground instead of four or even a surface. Thank you Bob and keep up the great work :)
Even I don't usually build things using wood, it's a material I really like. Good job, top notch work as always! 👍
Subscribed
My niece wants me to build a tool box for her husband. This came along at the right time.
Love that 3D printed gluestand. It's the little things.
Nice to see I’m not the only wood worker using 1/4” birch subfloor for projects. Another great project.
2 cents worth of tips: some small rubber feet would make it rest without damaging the bottom wood; neodymium magnets built into the drawers could help them line up and "lock" in place inside the frame. ;)
Shop furniture doesn't have to be ugly! Looks great
Well done. If I may add a tip, you can get away with using only 1 of the stepper casters. Add feet to the same side and on the opp side, use cheap stationary casters that lock. This isn’t “better” than what bob did, just another option.
That won't hold the cart enough pushing leather work through (small foot print of a cart and too light). Only works when you are pushing perpendicular of the wheels. A lot of table saws have this pivot wheel with stationary wheels on the other side.
I love the look of the walnut on the ply. Very nice project!
Forby nailed the screw montage edit! Nice work fellas.
Thanks Dan 🙏
I was planning on making something like this but for a printer and paper supplies. Thanks for the design inspiration and tips!
these are the type of videos you would watch all night
Really liked how you lined up driving the screws in sync with the licks on the electric guitar...
Lots of interesting tips and tricks in this vid, I just wish I had a workshop big enough to warrant putting things on wheels! The bloopers are a highlight, I look forward to them in every video.
Good idea for a spot for the granite and cutting mat.
You should connect the “locks” on the casters with a bar or something so you only would need to lift or lower it twice rather than 4 times
I'm new to all this wood working but I love it. You gave me some great ideas I can use to build a small cabinet under my drill press. Thanks!
This is perfect for my homeschool supplies!!!!
Good Idea.
I think i'm going to make one.
Since i always wasting time for walking just to take some tools and put the tools back and take it again, again and again.
It's a good job, and a simple design to build.
Really great ideas, great job.
Thank you.
I love the both side drawer access and the walnut accents.
Nice cart! Love the colors, and the hardwood edging for durability. The filler over the screw heads has a sort of dowel look to them. Interesting extension wheels, don't think I've seen those.
A shop-made option for extending/retracting wheels that operates from one pedal/latch in front, is also pretty easy to make (you just have to work out dimensions for your cart and wheel size, but a bit of trial and error will get you there):
Construct the cabinet so it has a boxed-in 'skirt' around the bottom (i.e., mount the bottom shelf a few inches up from the bottom of the sides and back, then add a toe-kick panel in front, inset or not as you prefer). (Optionally, you can make a separate skirt and wheel assembly the same width and depth as the cabinet, and attach it to the bottom of the cabinet. This may be the better option while working out the dimensions, so you don't have to make adjustments to the cabinet itself. The remainder of this description assumes the skirt is part of the cabinet.)
Construct the wheel assembly by cutting a piece of plywood the size of the bottom opening, then cut that into 2 equal pieces so you have a front half and a back half, and re-join the halves with 2 hinges. Also cut an inch or so from one side of the front half plywood piece, and align the 2 pieces on one side (not centered) when attaching the 2 hinges. Mount 4 swivel wheels (not the locking type) on the bottom of the plywood near the 4 corners. Attach a lever/handle on the back plywood piece, on its underneath side, on the side edge where the front panel is shorter, so that the lever misses the front piece as it travels up and down, and points forward, projecting out of the front of the cabinet through a slot you must cut in the toe-kick and shelf to allow the lever to travel (3 1/2 sides of the shelf attached to the cart should be sufficient, but if it does sag under load, a vertical 'strap' piece of plywood can always connect the cut/slot corner of this shelf up to the next shelf to support that corner). Mount two 2x2 cleats on the inside of the skirt, the full width of the cabinet, one in front, one in back, up against the underneath surface of the shelf. The plywood wheel assembly's front and back edges will push up on these cleats to raise the cabinet, as you step on the lever to lower it and flatten the wheel assembly. The wheel assembly itself does not need to be attached to the cleats, but can remain loose under the skirt.
When the lever is pushed down with your foot, flattening the plywood wheel assembly, this causes all 4 wheels to extend down a half inch or so below the edge of the skirt, raising the cabinet up by the front and back plywood edges pushing on the cleats. When the lever is raised, the wheel assembly hinges up in the middle, causing the wheels to retract up inside the skirt, allowing the cabinet to sit on the skirt. No 'pulling up' of the lever is necessary. The weight of the cabinet will cause the wheels to roll to the center, causing the wheel assembly to angle up in the middle on its hinges, raising the lever to the top of its travel.
The dimensions for the height of the skirt and how far inside from the front and back edges to place the wheels, will depend on the size of the cabinet, the size of the wheels (larger ones will need either a taller skirt or to be set further in from the front and back edges, or both) and how far up you want the front end of the lever to travel. But bear in mind you only need to extend the wheels about a half inch out the bottom of the skirt to roll it around, and when lowered, the wheels only need to be up just inside the skirt to not touch the floor.
On the front end of the lever, attach a pivoting pedal piece with a nail or other through pin for the pivot, so that the pedal can rock and engage a stop/latch piece that you attach to the front edge of the cabinet side, near the bottom of the lever's travel. Step on the pedal while it's near the top of its travel, and push the lever down to raise the cabinet, then rock/pivot the pedal in a bit to engage its edge under the stop piece, to keep the lever down and the cabinet raised. Step on the pedal again and pivot it to disengage it from the stop, and let the lever go up to the top end of its travel, to retract the wheels and let the cabinet sit on its skirt.
Nice build, Bob. Kudos for doing something that I've yet to see other builder/makers do and that is using your left hand to pull the sliding miter saw when the cut is on the left side. Most guys use an arm crossover which just has the potential to have a bad day. I've heard the excuses, but a catch or jump is gonna be life changing.
The walnut accents worked great.
The finish is amazing! That walnut really makes the difference. Keep it going Bob 👍
An idea it gave me is to have shelf organizer for plywood. That way when someone buys materials and have extra pieces they can put the pieces in safe and secure location.
Easily my favorite channel on UA-cam. I have a project I want advice on. I wish I knew him...
Those walnut accent strips really went a long way to making it look finished. I might make something similar to use the space under the table saw wing more efficiently. Thanks!
Question: why not add a bar between the wheel/castor levers so instead of having to push both down one after the other you could just push down the bar?
Hey I'm Mike and I like to watch Bob Make Stuff! Great video! Only Bob could make this project interesting! Nice touch with the walnut edging!
Bob: The Master of Wood Crafting
Nice, I have a drill press cart I haven't finished with, it's built using a cheap supermarket flatpack shelving unit that we had spare and one of those drill press units for a normal electric handdrill. I've been trying to figure out the best way to finish it up, and you've given me some good ideas. Thanks.
I've never done leather work, but I have to guess that you may end up buying/getting more tools for it. I can see drawer dividers being added to help keep it organized. Looks great.
I didn't think I would have a use for something like this but you've just given me some good ideas!! Thanks for the inspiration!
I really wish the channel name was "Bob the Builder" :)
Bob, you could use a couple of spring loaded captured ball-bearings or those door catches to ensure the drawer is lined up when you push it in regardless of the side. I mention this you seemed to prefer it to line up as when you we pushing it away. Just a suggestion and keep creating great stuff. I'm envious of your workshop.
That "Here We Go!" voice at the end is what Bob thinks Mario really sounds like. FIRST!
I'm amazed you guys get anything done with all the laughter going on ...
Did you know that Mario is supposed to be 28 years old? Lol
Lol. He should change his opening script to ”its me, Mario” version.
”Hey it's me, Bob from ILTMS” using Mario voice.
I thought he sounded a bit like "Bobcat" Goldthwait.
This has to be the most regular thing hes ever made.
You gave me a few ideals to help keep the dead tree carcass dust out of my box and maybe help hide it or disguise it some. Thank you!
You may have done this, I either put BLUE (not red) Liquid Locknut or a plastic insert nuts on everything that could come loose, 'cause I don't want to find out when the big honkin sewing machine falls off.
Also, I'd consider putting a 'back' on the shelf with the marble slab to give more resistance to racking. You have two small ones at the product shelf but they are at the bottom.
If everyone pushes from the front or back, no problem, however with the big honkin sewing machine on the top if the unit was pushed sideways up against a stop the machine would want to keep going (inertia) while the bottom would stop.
I have a tendency to "idiot proof" things to make them last longer.
Good job!
I've been looking for a way to do something like this.
Hey awesome! I as a leather worker I think this is so cool! Great work bob
I´m thinking about customize my art/craft/nail room, I´ve been having a rough time finding furniture that works for my space and for what I need, after watching you for some time now, I´ve decided to just do it myself :) (with some help from my brother who has all the tools and stuff, plus he knows more about this than I do ((for now)) and it´s always better to have two brains rather than one lol)
I´ve learn a lot just by watching you, I´m not new to woodwork, we were using hammers and nails before we could ride a bike so ;D
So thank you for the inspiration :) ❤️
You're pretty great at what ever you take up, so I don't presume to tell you what you should do... that said if you create 3 points of contact on the bottom of your cabinet it will always (within reason) set flat on the floor without rocking when the "coasters" are lifted. Great video Bud👍
Fantastic job bob!
Add to your drawers like you did for the adjustable silverware drawer!
That cart looks amazing
As always loved the project, only had one idea. Maybe putting a flat bar connecting the locks for the castors so you don’t have to actuate all four. Edge banding looked real good. Does the cart have enough weight, even with the granite, to be stable when using the sewing machine?
Very nice cart, loving the walnut highlights 👍
I'm about to move (I'm buying my homestead, I'm soooo happy) and one of the first projects is definitely this.
Amazing vid as always.
Im so jealous! Good luck on your new adventure!
Great build man, I'm a bit concerned (for you of course) that the top compartment will sag under the weight of that slab and will make the first drawer hard to open. Also the weight of the machine (looks like cast iron) will have the same effect on the top surface. Perhaps adding a thin metal sheet to both surfaces will help alleviate the stress and prevents from sagging. Thanks for sharing!
It won't sag.. and a thin metal sheet won't do anything to stiffen it. The weight is not all that much given the short cut of the board.
@@UNKPCRIDE you're likely right. The plywood seemed thick enough, plus the nature of that material itself is less susceptible to bowing/sagging.
*Here We Go!*
I love this! Very nicely constructed.
The cart looks nice. I like the wheels you added better than the standard locking caster wheels.
Another great build video. Thanks!
Speaking of upcycling, I purchased a similar piece from a salvage store for $10. It did need a bit of TLC but that was fun to do.
Cool stuff, Bob!
That Diresta ice pick is popping up everywhere now, haha.
do a BOX instead of a sown cover.
for the draws, add a seal along all the necessary places to make it water tight and dust tight!
Great video. Going to use some of these ideas to help me deal with some tool clutter.
It's a good thing I'm not your neighbor...I would forever be hanging around asking, "hey, waddya doing?". You have one brain I would love to pick! Thank you for making these videos easy to follow yet entertaining at the same time!
The combination of a granite slab, and the solid steel sewing machine, makes this build look quite top-heavy. Combined with a high height for its base area and rolling casters, then you might get balance issues.
Awesome Bob. Love the edit at minute 4 where you sync the music with the video. Very cool!
Definitely going to have to make some of these!
After installing the casters I would have to put a ‘side’ cabinet or something because the caster poking out would drive me nuts (short drive) awesome build and I love project specific work centers. I have one for oil testing tribology and ppm analysis at work and one for advanced machine diagnostics like vibration Spectrum analysis to infrared, ultra sonic and more. It’s nice to have a box to run out and do a job.
Very nice little cart! :)
Real nice👍👍👍👍 maybe a block of wood with a bunch of holes in it for all your tooling stamps and punches
Hi! I' m Bob and I like to make stuff! Sir and a mighty fine job you do! Always enjoy,thank you! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and family!
Sir you make really amazing projects..Big Fan of you
For those Casters, If the foot pedal is metal you could weld a bar across it(or test it out with zip ties at least) so that you only had to lift/ push down one thing on each side instead of two on each side. Just a suggestion. Awesome video though! Great Job!
4:00 love the montage who follows the music!
Great build! I love the simplicity and the Walnut is a very nice touch. Here's a random idea- maybe mount a bar or block of sorts between the caster handles. Then you could lift with your foot and not have to bend over to every single caster. Just an idea🤷🏻♂️ Love your work!
Nice build. As long as the cabinet isn't too heavy, you might consider putting a piece of flat stock or angle iron to connect the foot levers of the casters. You could raise a whole side at a time instead of a corner.
you need a bar on each side connecting the caster mechanism so its easier to engage and disengage...nice work!
Hi Bob what a sweet cart ,G.
Nice build. I like the castors, but I think I would connect the two up on either side with a bar. That way both can be operated at the same time.
Mount a bar to the caster levers. That way you can flip two levers at once per side.
Love my dewalt cordless guns. So convenient, but that looks great man
I like this build..I might put some drop leaf extensions too.
This is awesome and very versatile.
Man that intro was smoother than my grandma wrapping christmas presents. 😉
Beautiful job, Bob! 😃
Really useful!!!
I love that Dewalt trim router. It might be my favorite tool in my shop. Sweet Video guys!
Does anyone else instantly 'Like' his videos, before actually watching them, just because he's Bob and is consistently awesome?
Yep.
you should make a Rolling upright Computer Desk that looks like a Cabinet on wheels that has storage for a laptop (or tower ) and printer ... my dad eons ago (mid 80s ) built 1 with a slide out tray and had 2 shelves below for storage and had some nice detailed doors (with a clear coat to bring out the wood ) it was a great idea even rolled on carpet decently
You could connect the foot pedals for the wheels on each side with a bar so you can actuate them both at the same time.
im making a wooden carrying case for my hobby models and the wheels with lifts sounds wonderful.
This is perfect! just what I was looking for! I have a 45cm hole under my workbench that I have been looking to get a rolling toolcart for a while. I prob would have bought one if i would have found one with the right dimensions. But this looks just great. I just need some other wheels, so it will be fit inside that hole! :)
Thanks for design inspiration and tips!👋🤝
You could weld a single rod across two tabs on one side so that you don't have to specifically push/pull 4 castors down every time you change their position. Alternatively, it could be a wooden 2x4, instead of a metal rod, with holes drilled in the metal tabs
The more I watch this show the more Bob's shop is looking like Adam Savage's shop... Well done Bob!
Idea for the casters, weld a piece of flat bar to each side. Then you only have to engage each side once.
Very useful project!
Awesome Rolling Tool Cart !!!!!!!!!! Also have a Happy Merry Christmas !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Love your work as always! Would have loved to have seen leather strap pulls
Is that nothing but a layer of plywood holding up all that weight of the sewing machine & the torque from it being levered out like that?
Would love to see you make a Murphy Bed
Thanks Forby 💯
Thank YOU Sam 🔥