Matterhorn | Solo | 4K
Вставка
- Опубліковано 4 лют 2025
- The Matterhorn 4478m - 23rd September 2022
The Matterhorn, perhaps my first love. The majestic peak the pinnacle of any aspiring mountaineer. A fascination subconsciously engrained into my immigration at young age as I devoured the soothing Swiss chocolate from time to time. I'd often find myself staring at the triangular block of Toblerone envisioning what it would take to scale her striking symmetric prism.
After experiencing summit fever on Mont Blanc, curiously I recheck the weather forecast for the Matterhorn. A narrow margin for a possible ascent and the last chance before being covered in a blanket of snow with the seasons end.
Cutting my plans in Chamonix short to give the Horn a shot, I set route to Zermatt. The legs still stinging from the Massif and multiple hikes only days prior. Determined not to let the fatigue distract my ambitions, I cheat and catch the Gondola up a few hundred meters, trying to conserve energy.
The details of the jaggered prism now visible, conditions appeared dry with remnants of snowfall scattered on the face from the previous week. Nervous with the recent Khan Tengri fatality vividly on my mind, heighten climbing one of the deadliest mountains. I question myself, my decisions and establish my mandatory rules before taking a further step. I wasn't going to be another mountain statistic.
The winter shelter occupied with enthusiastic climbers by the time I arrive. Deciding to rough it, rolling out out the sleeping bag under a sky full of stars. Early bird headlamps scattered high up along the trail. Legs lethargic as I scramble over rocks to find some resemblance of the route, navigating slowly under the night sky. I take a short moment as the first morning rays illuminate the face in a fiery rich apricot warmth.
Falling behind my own schedule I push to make up ground though my legs reluctant to shift gears. Heaving up the fixed lines. Thighs trembling. Shouts from above distract my sense of enervation as rocks and boulder tumble down into the glacier valley below.
The summit in sight, though my turn around time already exceeded. I contemplate spending a night in Solvay hut upon a late summit bid though the scheduled snowfall that evening subtract the idea as I painstakingly make the call to turn around just a lousy hundred from a lustful summit.
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Equipment:
GoPro Hero 10
Processing and editing was completed in Lightroom and Premiere Pro
Music Credits
Hymn To The Dawn by Scott Buckley | / scottbuckley Music promoted by www.free-stock... Attribution 4.0 International (CC BY 4.0)
#matterhorn #mountains #mountaineering #soloclimbing #switzerland #zermatt #alps
Being able to turn around is a great skill to have, never easy.
Thank you! It was hard being so close, but keen for the next attempt.
True, summiting is optional, returning home is not
For me it's like competing in the Olympics even if I didn't medal. Just being there is enough.
In the ‘80’s I hitchhiked across Europe from Liverpool, England to climb the Matterhorn with my mate. When we awoke in the Hornli hut in the early hours he backed our and I was distraught. I decided to attempt a solo ascent. Actually it gave me a taste for soloing and I went on to complete a solo ascent of the Eiger at a later date.
On the summit I met 2 lads from Yugoslavia who had suffered a fall and had lost their camera. They were overjoyed when I was able to take a photo and send it on to them. We communicated for some time but they were from Mostar which was battered during the civil war and over the years I have often wondered what became of them.
I’m now 69 years of age and recovering from surgery for cancer and this stands out as one of the finest memories of my life.
Thanks for posting and good luck next time!
That's a mega story!
Impressive feature and great insight to climbing it back in the 80s. Well before my time, it certainly would have been an epic adventure just to get there let alone stand on the summit so huge respect. Were there many people climbing back then?
All the best with the recovery!
@@ScalingSummits not as many as today and there were certainly nothing like as many fixed ropes but I didn’t use what there were as I wouldn’t have considered that a worthwhile ascent. A night in the Solvay with no kit wasn’t a bundle of laughs I remember but beers at the bottom slipped down like silk knickers.
Thanks for your best wishes Liam, much appreciated.
So much admire your decision to turn around if you are not feeling it. We need more videos like this
Thank you! It wasn’t easy, but not regrets. Currently working on another unsuccessful climb (for different reasons) .
Good job. I tell you a secret: for 7 years I come to this mountain every summer and try to reach the top. Last year I was under the shoulder and came back. This year I'll do it again. I'm not a mountaneer, but I do my best.
Thank you. Amazing dedication for a challenging climb, the most important thing is getting down. You'll get their eventually!
Me to i plan to climb it
In february i did my first visit to it 😊
Just get a guide and do it…
The reality that people don't often make videos about. If it doesn't feel right or beyond your reach then the safest thing to do is turn around. Kudos for posting this
Cheers Anthony, just trying to keep my journey authentic. Appreciate the comment.
There will be definitely more opportunities for finishing the climb, so no worries. Thank you for yet another great video! Keep them coming :)
Cheers mate. Switzerland is certainly on the list for another visit in the future.
Absolutely phenomenal. Thank you for taking us on this journey! Here’s to a clean send for ya!
Cheers for tuning in! Plenty more in the pipeline.
Knowing your limits is just as if not more important than knowing your strengths. We all have those days where we just don't feel it, let alone after you've already climbed thousands of meters. Great job, you should be proud of the progress you made on such an intimidating solo climb!
So true! I made the right call that day and don't regret it. It's given me another opportunity to have crack when the body feel right (possibly this season)! Cheers for watching
Messner used to say: a good alpinist is an alpinist ALIVE! Sometimes we must be wise and accept to “give up” and turn down… by the way the mountains remain right there where they are!
It is incredibly hard to make the decision to turn around but so true.
My climbing instructor told us the first day, "There are old mountaineers and there are bold mountaineers, but there are no old bold mountaineers."
Thanks for sharing, glad you had the control to turn around if you felt you needed to. Awesome video none the less.
Cheers mate, glad you enjoyed it.
Such an inspiring video. Thanks for sharing. Be safe and enjoy your next journey!
Thank you! Will do!
epic video LIAM ! loved that mysterious music !
Cheers Glen, appreciate it. Eyeing off a possible second attempt this season.. we’ll see!
You didn't make it, but you're still with us and can have another go. Wise decision, well done.👍
Cheers Fred, much appreciated!
@@ScalingSummits What sort of grade is it Liam? I assume this is the standard route up past Hornli? Looking at the video the rock looks like a typical scramble grade but obviously I've never been there and don't know. The exposure looks ridiculous. I was climbing at UK Severe grade in the sixties but this is another level.
They say AD, though I found the the bulk of the climb (up to the shoulder) a scrabble with an occasional technical section. The climb from the shoulder obviously becomes more technical with a few over hang section with fixed lines etc.
The main risks I found was the exposure on the way down, rock fall by other climbers and route finding in the dark .
A wonderful and challenging adventure Liam. Beautiful shots!
Many thanks Mario!
Wonderful adventure experience really great, thanks for sharing thrilling video congratulations 🙏
Thank you so much 👍
Good on ya mate 👍🏾
Thanks 👍
I once did a recon in daylight just to see where the route was. I got half way up and had to turn back because it was so busy and I kept getting crap from the guides. Still have to finish 😁
Couldn't imagine doing it during the peak! I specifically tried to avoid the crowd after hearing stories, hence attempted in the late/end of season.
@@ScalingSummits Smart move 😁
Watched, subbed and liked! Good on you for even attempting that behemoth!
Cheers! Much appreciated!
Absolutely wonderful video mate. I'll be trying it myself solo too soon. And I hope I have the good judgement and lack of ego to take the temporary L if it's needed.
Cheers mate. Solid goal, give yourself a decent window opportunity and you'll be fine. If unlucky and you need to turn around, you'll still achieve more than most would ever dare dream. Safe climbing
Great effort mate
Cheers mate
Awesome video. good decision to go back. \you used Scarpa Mont Blanc PRO?
Cheers Marius. Yes, Mont Blanc Pro
Epic truly Epic climb Liam (when one thinks mountain 🏔️ 99 out of a 100 see the Matterhorn in there mind) to attempt to climb such a peak takes a strong heart (to turn around takes a stronger one 🙌🙌)
Earned my sub for that alone m8t 149🤝🤠👍🏔️
Best regards Simon 🤠👍🏔️
Cheers Simon, appreciate the support (must have missed this comment before)
@@ScalingSummits no worries Liam 🤠🤝🏔️
How difficult was it to find the way?
There were maybe 3 sections throughout the morning that became difficult to navigate and/or required back tracking even with a bunch of others close by (no guides). Though managed to get back on course after losing some time. The same spots on the way down were also difficult to determine the correct path and/or anchor points to rap. If undertaking during peak season, wouldn't expect navigation to be an issue with so many people climbing.
Awesome video, glad you made the safe call! Did you find that as a solo climber it’s a popular enough route to follow others incase you struggle route finding?
Thankyou! As I attempted the climb at the end of the season, there were only a handful of people climbing which made it a lot harder to "follow the leader" . During the night there were numerous locations were the route was not obvious and lost time back tracking. Once dawn approached, the path was more distinct. During the decent there were a few sections that were difficult to navigate. I'm sure it would be a lot easier during the peak season with lots of climbers, however perhaps more dangerous with accidental rock fall by others above.
Impressive ❄️
Thankyou!
@@ScalingSummits you are very welcome 🙏❄️
You sticked the rope to that fixed iron stuff that has helped you descending, how did you manage to bring the ropes with you down the Mountain? (I'm not a mountaneer yet)
Once finishing the repel, I just pull on one side of the rope (need to make sure any safety knots at the end of the lines are un tied too). Most times this works fine, however it can occasionally get stuck between rocks or overhangs. Then I just coil up and place behind my head until I need it next.
Awesome effort. Subscribed.
Thank you!
Very good and brave decision, to listen to your body and not finish it to the mountain. Just try it the next time again, the summit will still be there waiting for you :)
And regarding your stuff falling down: please secure it with some kind of cord, I am an austrian and mountaineering is in my blood. Losing your equipment is for both, you and the mountain, not good 😉
PS: very nice shots (especially at 3:05)
Thanks heaps! It was a tough decided, but I don't regret it. Re my stuff; yes I made a small mistake with the water bottle as I needed to unclip it from my bag but did not reinstate it (it was rather sentimental and accompanied me on every climb and trek for years). I may have gotten unlucky with the Gopro, as the neck of my tripod broke upon the climb.
Well said - I’ve witnessed a few fatalities myself in the Swiss Alps.
Thank you.
It’s never an easy situation to experience and still crosses my mind when on the mountains at present though it has made me more risk adverse. I guess that’s part of the risks associated with the hobby.
I feel sick when I see those bolts.
hi ,thats a epic vid,im wondering how do you attached the go pro mount to the helmet?
Thank you! I just use one of the adhesive base mount. You can kind of see it in the thumbnail. Stuck it on a few years ago and still going strong.
where did you get them?
I believe mine came with the GoPro it’s self. Any GoPro retailer store should be able to provide an accessories pack too.
I’ve attached a link to GoPros offical site that contains a few of the adhesive mounts as an example.
gopro.com/en/us/shop/mounts-accessories/grab-bag/AGBAG-002.html?&&gclid=Cj0KCQiAutyfBhCMARIsAMgcRJTqSqafWEQ_lGfom3M9bZ0cZtOtx1jUqMUQKMXua5Hk4z6nCs28s4oaAs9ZEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Do you have more fear decending then accending going down looks way more scary ? Good crack anyway better luck next time mate enjoyed the video
Cheers Mate. The decent is always the hardest, maintaining concentration at altitude after any climb is critical. I've made numerous mistakes on climbs whilst fatigued, though luckily corrected them before anything major happened.
Well done!
It was a good decision to give up.
Otherwise you would have spent the night in the mountain.
You had a little bit to much icy snow.
Every step needed 30-100% more time than usual.
I guess you started to return at about 13-15 o'clock.
I was 5 times on the top - 8 tries.
3 times I gave up because of to much snow.
Onelce I gave up at 13.30 where the fix ropes started in the first week of August.
At 18 o'clock we were back at the refuge.
While we went down others passed us going up.
I warned them: return or you will spent the night ...
The next morning sitting on the terrace enjoying breakfast we saw them returning without having been on the top.
They did not look happy.
As a rule: if there is snow at 3600:
don't do it unless you are a professional.
Thank you! Impressive feature to scale multiple times!
Turned around about 1300 with the intent to get down before sunset and snowfall that night. Ended up helping another solo climber down who was out of food/water which slowed my entire decent progress. Managed to get them down to the hut by about 930pm then decided to keep going to Zermatt that night. Very long day. I remember seeing a pair of touches behind us that were still trying to navigate their way down the mountain at 12am.
@Liam Veigel Excellent, you are a tough man.
1983, 14th of July, I did it with a friend without rope, first ascent.
4 hours up, 4 and a half down.
Beer at 14:00.
But between the shoulder and the bivouac hut we lost the path for one hour, no guides in front of us.
We had excellent conditions.
Only the last 50 m had snow.
stay safe
💖💖❤❤💘💘
Why did I watch this video, you didn't even make it?!? You are not getting my sympathy!
I'm not asking for your sympathy but the film must have captivated you enough to go out of your way and leave a comment. Cheers
Why don’t you go and climb it yourself instead of offering nothing but criticism.
there's always one douchebag
Waiting for your video of your successful solo climb, please post it up.
It's an adventure and adventures take all kinds of turns. It's better to have someone be sensible and not push themselves to the peak when they know it's beyond their safety limits. Having an ego push you to the top when it's not safe is a weakness and many have died from their ego meaning they ultimately lost.
If UA-cam was full of everyone getting to the summit every time then others would push themselves to summit as they would think it's the done thing, this helps bring the balance and may even save someone's life if you take it to the extreme.