Great video. For so long folks have been saying that the older locomotive are not worth converting to DCC. You have proven the opposite. I also love the idea of using clay to keep the wire where you want it for soldering....Fantastic tip. Just subscribed and am working my way through your other videos. I've found a wealth of valuable information so far. keep up the great work !!!
Oh, I’m so very glad that you found it worthwhile! I appreciate you letting me know. Please keep in touch as I’d love to know how the conversation pans out.
When your doing the motor you cut the metal strip on you don’t have to do that it’s just soldered to the contact pad for the motor you can heat it up then pull the fat metal ground off and connect every else same as any other dcc install
@@DoctorHobby I ask since I'm putting DCC & Sound in the same engine for someone but am unsure if I'll need to change decoder settings for it to work better with the existing motor (will be using the same decoder and current keeper setup as the video)
Howdy! Yes, you do have to program the address via CVs 29, 1, 17, and 18 . Get an app called a “DCC Address Calculator” and it’ll tell you how to set these values.
Usually the general practice is to use the number on the side of the locomotive (generally called the road number) for the decoder address as then you just have to look at the engine to know what the decoder address is
Great video. For so long folks have been saying that the older locomotive are not worth converting to DCC. You have proven the opposite.
I also love the idea of using clay to keep the wire where you want it for soldering....Fantastic tip. Just subscribed and am working my way through your other videos. I've found a wealth of valuable information so far.
keep up the great work !!!
Miss ya Doc. Hope you’re doing well
I appreciated your video. I have some Rivarossi E units and wasn’t sure how to wire it for DCC. My SP Golden State E units will be converted soon.
Oh, I’m so very glad that you found it worthwhile! I appreciate you letting me know. Please keep in touch as I’d love to know how the conversation pans out.
When your doing the motor you cut the metal strip on you don’t have to do that it’s just soldered to the contact pad for the motor you can heat it up then pull the fat metal ground off and connect every else same as any other dcc install
Vry interesting ! Thanks for the vid
I’ll have more BN soon and hopefully more helpful stuff
Nice job
Thanks tons!
I measured the stall current on an IHC 2-8-0 and it draws 0.758 amps at 13.5V (NCE specs) and 0.873 amps at 16V (MRC Specs).
Did you make any changes to the factory default motor CVs?
Yes, in order to speed match. I have a separate video for how to do this.
@@DoctorHobby I ask since I'm putting DCC & Sound in the same engine for someone but am unsure if I'll need to change decoder settings for it to work better with the existing motor (will be using the same decoder and current keeper setup as the video)
Funny note: you refer to the “conductors side” but when the locos were first delivered In real life that would have been the “fireman’s side.”
Oh! Hahaha… interesting.. all of this morphing and fungible terminology. Probably in 10 years it will be the “CPU’s Side.” Lol
Im new to DCC do you have to program your engine once you wire it up? How do you know what number to type in on your throttle? Thanks.
Howdy! Yes, you do have to program the address via CVs 29, 1, 17, and 18 . Get an app called a “DCC Address Calculator” and it’ll tell you how to set these values.
@@DoctorHobby I imagine the instructions to do so come with the decoder?
Some do, but not a lot. Soundtraxx has more detailed instructions online.
Usually the general practice is to use the number on the side of the locomotive (generally called the road number) for the decoder address as then you just have to look at the engine to know what the decoder address is