home made epoxy granite cnc - part 8- switches, way covers and DRO
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- Опубліковано 7 лис 2019
- Bringing it a little closer to the point where it's enjoyable to operate. Some way covers, still missing guides at the ends, reference switches and soft limits for jogging without the fear of crashing the machine. And a DRO with a jog wheel for GRBL.
A little more details on this build in written form you'll find here: dangeroustools.com/category/cnc/
Part 1: • home made epoxy granit...
Part 2: • home made epoxy granit...
Part 3: • home made epoxy granit...
Part 4: • home made epoxy granit...
Part 5: • home made epoxy granit...
Part 6: • home made epoxy granit...
Part 7: • home made epoxy granit... - Наука та технологія
Great work on the cinematography. I especially enjoyed the bolt filing shot with the background flare. Beautiful.
Happy you like it!
Excellent you shrouded the acme gears to prevent sworf buildup! VERY IMPRESSED with your ingenuity, skill and determination!
The DRO was pretty clever
Joerg, as always there's just one thing to say: excellent work. Really like your work.
Nice idea for the handheld controller and nice editing ! Keep up the good work !
Very nicely done great job can't wait for an update!!!
Such a great series. Very inspiring. I feel like your pedestal drill will become very lonely now your VMC is in action. Well done!
Amazing work! Thank you for sharing it!
I love the videos, they are great and offer a lot of insight on how to plan a build like this. I wish you had more details on your site about part selection for electronics etc.
Un grandioso trabajo!!!! Felicitaciones!
Hammer Sache Joerg!
like your projects!
Good Work 👍
Now I also want to build myself a CNC 😅
Для домашней мастерской очень хорошо. Только есть одна проблема "коэффициент температурного расширения". Слишком разные материалы, тут и углеродистая сталь и алюминий и полимерный бетон. При изменении температуры всё, это выгнет дугой, а после нескольких изменений температуры ослабнут винтовые соединения.
This dude is using Linux and FreeCad it seems! I love your work so far!
Good to hear! For my personal work I only use linux. Sadly for my professional work that's not possible. But ten years ago I wasn't able to use Linux even for my personal stuff. Things are changing, some open source tools are getting better and better, and some awesome commercial tools like davinci resolve are running just fine on Linux.
@@joergbeigang Yeah, from what I hear the VFX world has been making moves towards linux, especially since Apple hasn't been treating them too well. I watched more of your videos and your mill looks great. Personally, I have aspirations to make a mill using some sort of polymer concrete to fill in steel tubes and slots to give my future machine more mass and rigidity. Epoxy Granite looks interesting as well.
very very work..thanks for you time
Hello friend. Great video. Good job. Thanks your upload video.
Awesome. I just watched the 8 videos of this series in a raw. I couldnt stop watching. The level of mechanical detail is superb in every single step and it is so well documented.
The speed and quality of the footage is perfect.
I can't understand why I didn't see this channel before.
I got one question about assembly.
After aligning every axis correctly and pouring the epoxy granite between the bed and the Z axis column, why did you loosen the metal blocks that were holding them together?
I'm happy you liked it. I loosened them to get the shims out. There was no need for the shims anymore and I liked to have them back in my feel gauge, where I borrowed them from.
@@joergbeigang so the Z axis bock relies solely on the epoxi-granite you "poured" inbetween?
Congrats for ur machine, its the best homemade mill i have seen so far.
@@adriangaleron3293 thx. The epoxy granite in between is taking care of the distance between the base and the column. Of course I tightened the screws again, after I pulled out the shims.
@@joergbeigang Aaaaall right then! Did u suffer any disalignment after doing that?
@@adriangaleron3293 No, was scared of that as well. I compressed the epoxy mix pretty hard with a hammer and a piece of aluminum. I was also scared of moving it while doing that. But I had good luck.
there's end mills that cut in both directions called compression end mills made for laminate materials (such as plywood) so it doesn't fray like that
Hey there.
Your project is great. i hope to see more of your work in future.
I noticed that on Y axis you put home sensor so that it will be triggered when screw is close to it.
Those proximity sensors are great (not affected by grease or dirt)
but they work best only when solid metal flag is in front of them. (covers the area of sensor)
If not all of the sensor head "feels" metal triggering distance might be uneven.
Since allen screw that it should be triggered with, have hole in it, homing results might be inconsistent.
I would recommend using hex screw without hole or reposition the sensor as on X axis (scissors type sensor positioning is more reliable)
But maybe it works good for you application and my inner perfectionist is worried for no reason.
Anyway thanks.
Thanks for your input. That was my first contact with those sensors. Therefore I didn't really know what I was doing ;-)
I didn't measure the precision of the switches so far. But I'll do so. And I'll replace the screw as well.
Nice project Joerg, a question about used parts, what rail and carriage size? And what are the axes travel?
It's 20mm rails and 16mm ball screws. Travel is x 330 y 235 and z 180 mm. Happy you like it!
Watch them all - amazing. I am a novice - what is the name of the dial guage and mount that you used to test it being true???
Happy you like them. The dial gauge and the stand are some cheap Chinese ones. I'm pretty happy with my dial gauges, but the mount isn't stiff enough. At least for the gauge with 1/1000mm resolution. If I'd buy one again, I'll go for a proper one.
Hat off sir!
Very Very Cool!!! Definitely want to see more and see it actually doing projects...very cool it built it's own upgrade parts (that's the point) Awesome!
Keep em coming!
schon ziemlich schick! :) welche verfahrwege hat die maschine? :)
330 x 235 x 180 mm
Joerg, since now you have the mill operational for some time, any reflections on what you would do differently should you start another build?
Sure there are. The weakest point on my design is the connection of the column with the base. Now I'd would connect it with screws on four sides. Planned was just two sides, in the end I improvised with some steel in the rear side to get it stiff enough. And I'd make the whole column a little higher to have more travel in z direction. An other design issue that also concerns the column is the proportion. I didn't think about proportions of bodies in relation with their vibration behavior and resonance frequency. As closer the shape of a body comes to a sphere as better it is. Long and slim is the worst case. With that in mind if make the column quite a bit wider. Not that it's problem like it is now. The resonance frequency is pretty low and far away from everything the spindle is producing, but it wouldn't cost much to make it better.
An other thing is the z assembly. This I'm planning to change in the future. Just not decided yet if I'll cast a epoxy granite block or if I go more in direction of a sk30 spindle.
I think these are the biggest points.
Thanks Joerg, sounds good.
Very nice, how accurate are those switches/can you link them?
For testing I moved the machine forward and backward about 1/100 millimeter. That worked well. For my purpose more then enough. They are acting exactly like a transistor. There are PNP and NPN versions. Shouldn't be too hard to link them. You'll need some resistors, and I used an optocoupler, because I'm feeding them with 12v.
@@joergbeigang what brand/part number are they?
@@oliverrowe8648 don't know what brand they are. Some Chinese brand - there are no Latin letters on the sticker of the switch, strictly Chinese ...
Bought them from a German shop: www.rc-letmathe.de/en/CNC-Elektrozubehoer/Induktiver-Naeherungsschalter--Proximy-Switch?source=2&refertype=1&referid=177
True level
Nice job on the jog/DRO! Would you share the arduino code?
Thanks. Yes, I will share the code. Just want to finish it and test it properly before.
Thanks a lot. I put one together based on a Teensy to talk to bCNC but it's not really usable :S
@@laurentlementec3070 talking to bcnc was my first attempt too. Didn't work out on the raspberry pi I'm running bcnc on. Hammering on the web pendant isn't the best idea I guess. Now it's a man in the middle approach. Works good so far. Only problem I got is that the library for the led display takes a bit of time to compute. So I had to lower the baud rate to 9600 baud. It's not a real problem, the buffer is always pretty much filled up on my machine, but it's "cosmetically" not nice. Also thought about giving the teensy a try. My code compiles on a teensy 3.6 without any errors. I just don't have one here ...
What spindle do you have?
That's the Chinese 2.2 KW that's sold everywhere
Music is great what is last track played please
It's Lust by LATASHÁ. Found it on the youtube audio library
Inductive sensors are not mounted this way.
The sensors are mounted under a straight account and not in parallel.
The magnetic flux must be cut and not reflected.
Thanks. Had no experience with those sensors. Someone already pointed that out in the comments here. I'll keep an eye on the accuracy of the homing of y. In case I'll change it
Show us your -Z- axis counterweight solution please.
There is no. The z assembly is light weight enough not to move down on it's own
Hello! How are you? What about a progress of your process?)
I'm on it. Should be ready in a week or two.
@@joergbeigang glad to hear it! Good luck
But can it run stainless steel ?
If you're talking about the sheet material I'm cutting, that's alu-dipond. Looks like brushed steel, but it's not.
you make this tremendous base then staple on a BS spindle and run it like a grandmother, I'm perplexed by the DIY community. Pushing builds then machining like cowards.