Antique Draw Knife Restoration | How to Rust Removal and Sharpening | C. Roby
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- Опубліковано 24 бер 2020
- In this video, I bring back to life a C. Roby steelcast antique draw knife. It was purchased a few years back in an antique shop and is still functional. I clean the rust off, sharpen the blade and oil the handles.
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Music by Dan Lebowitz via the youtube audio library. - Навчання та стиль
I think you did just what needed to be done. I for one do not think you went to far. I like the fact that you left as much history as possible.
I think it's always hard to decide how far to go when restoring any antique , but I I always say to myself your not restoring it your just giving it a bit of love and I think you gave this just the right amount of love 😙
Absolutely! Thank you!
Hello John from Beckley, W.V. I have 2 draw knives. I like shiny things for display only. If I was going to use it I probably would shine it. Each to their own. Great job. Have a Blessed Day.
I agree, it belongs to you and you can do whatever you want with it. It looks good, I was a little skeptical about the edge as it looked like it had some pitting on it, but it performed well. Good job.
Thanks bud! It was in pretty rough shape and fairly usable but just looked so pitiful. I've been wanting to clean it up for a while and now that I did I don't even want to use it. 🤣 I'm a sucker for anything old and antique with a history.
I recently cleaned up my drawknife. I started with the intention of leaving some patina. It still has character but it’s very shiny, very sharp and very functional.
I like my tools as new as I can get them.
Smart to keep tools clean, sharp, and useable, bud. Take care of your tools and they will take care of you.
at least that draw blade/knife is well taken care of and not sitting in a shed neglected and exposed to GOD KNOWS WHAT good job john;];];] it has a great home now and appreciated im sure;];];]
Have never seen one of those before.82 and still learning.Love it.
Hi John .This is a great video.I am looking at buying a draw knife here in the U.K. They sell for lots more than they do over were you are.I am looking at restoring a rusty one as I love bringing things back to scratch.
Your video was very helpful.
Very best wishes to you from Cornwall England.
Thank you! They have grown in popularity here and can bring a fairly good price now at most markets as well. Best of luck to you!
John you did a great job
Thanks bud!
Fantastic restoration. Maybe the 10 means it has a 10inch cutting edge?
Yep! Someone else suggested that and sure enough it measures 10"!
I’ve never understood people criticizing someone for normal maintenance on a hand tool.
There's always a few bad apples! Haha
What antique shop my granddad owns one in Berkeley Springs. Youngblood’s Antiques and Furniture!
It wasn't but I need to check out youngbloods I haven't been there yet!
I have a draw knife that looks all most that one. Thanks for the great info. I am going to try to do the same thing that you did.
That's great! Try those paint/rust removal wheels for the first pass. The wire wheel wouldn't even touch it but did great for the final cleaning.
Truly great work huddle!! I swear I've seen that in a kung fu movie lol
Glutamine! That's my secret!
@@JohnBearWoodworks lol
Do you have a video of making the two tables?
I wish 😣
Here is my thinking on refurbing antique tools. If you are going to use the tool to do work refurb it all the way. It doesn't matter about monitary collectors value in my opinion if it is for work. The better condition it is in the better it will work and longer it will last. I refurb old tools for work too. I couldn't care less about the value I only care about how it works.
Amen!
Agreed.
That's only antique shop value anyways :)
A nicely restored serviceable tool might interest me but most of these antique store tools with 'patina' are as much as ten times - and more- the price of their value.
I have not scored one these yet, but friends have purchased near-perfect looking originals that are sometimes found in antique stores- and for far less then the wrecked rusty tools with a coat of linseed oil on them. Hilarious!
What does the # 10 marking indicate, Is this common on tools other than C. Roby ?
Just a tool marking item # or something along those lines I suppose.
@@JohnBearWoodworks Thanks. I purchased an antique similar that has #10 but no brand name. My guess is measurement of the cutting length
My guess is its a 10 in blade. I just finished shopping for an old draw knife off eBay and
Many other manufacturers have a similar number marking on it 8,9,10,12 etc... I’m waiting on delivery of a Bay State 8” knife.
@@bighammer822 just measured it (the knife) and sure enough it's 10"! 🤣
Are you sure it needed an additional bevel? My understanding is that designs like that were supposed to be one large bevel like a triangle. Love restoring old tools! If there’s no plan to resell it, no sense I’m not making it exactly how you want it to be.
I'm not so sure of anything anymore bud! 🤣 That'd make sense. I just sharpen most things how I would a knife. I just love old rusty stuff and its history!
Your understanding comes from the context of where you learned it from; a drawKNIFE is most useful sharpened as a knife not a chisel. it works better and with less effort as a knife edge, and it doesn't have to be sharpened with a chisel-flat bevel, either, if you want to use it with precision.
Chisels and planer blades, and power tool cutters like router bits and circular saw blades work best with angular straight faces because of how they cut when in use. But cutting tools like the drawknife gain a lot of precision and edgeholding ability sharpened as knife edge.
John On your sharpening technique, you need to have your edge raised up and clear of obstructions. The edge of the bench was potential obstruction. I think your arrangement was limiting you from using the file in the way it was intended; the file cuts by moving up, not across. When you place the file on the shave, the top of the file actually moves at 45 degree angle during the stroke. Also, before ever taking a coarse file to any “antique” or “truly antique” tool, it is best to study the cutting-edge and determine if it is a piece of steel forged to cast iron or lower quality steel. You cannot perfect the edge and lose you steel. If an old tool is corrected with a coarse and fine file, I’d never lay another file on it; stones will take care of them. A pocket stone is fine for a quick tune up when I’m cleaning up some oak split with a froe.
Thanks for the tip!
It's harded steel. Using a file will mess up the file only .
nice but next time it's much easier to use a bench grinder with wirewheel or that pad on it and move the blade around rather than the drill. ps never leave wd40 on metal. its willcause it to rust. its actually a degreaser
Gonna have to agree to disagree with you on that one Mr. PB Blaster sales rep!
4:30 & 4:50 Actually those pits are going to transfer to your workpiece. I guess it all you want to do is debark a log it's fine, but you cannot sharpen the edge of a rust pit. So I am saying you didn't go far enough...
Ya that was just a general clean up for dirty work and to look a little nicer. Not meant to shave with.