Having recently rebuilt one of these (twice), I can tell you that you'll want to pay extra close attention to see if any grease escapes after you've put a few miles on it, as well as going back to re-torque the bolts on each end after a good long test drive or w/in 50 miles or so. *Also pay close attention to which face of the bearing goes which way as you're taking the old (OEM assy) apart for the first time. They are different. The first time I rebuilt mine after having torqued everything correctly, and reassembling the same way as it came apart, I noticed grease being slung out and stuck to the bottom of the Jeep in the surrounding area after having driven for a while. I didn't worry too much about it and figured it was just a little residual that was on the outer part of the sealing surfaces that got squeezed out. Fast forward to maybe a year later and 10k miles or so and it started making noise again one day. It went from no noise to wondering if I was going to make it home from a short 15-mile round trip to the grocery store. Upon disassembly, I found the rear joint COMPLETELY dry and starting to friction weld itself together. I ordered a whole replacement drive shaft as this one looked like it was toast. But then since it was sitting there and it was going to be about a week or so before the new shaft arrived, I decided to experiment on it. I disassembled it again and cleaned it all up. It was definitely very crunchy and had some metal welding happening to some of the edges. I decided what the heck and took a file to the jagged pieces which worked pretty well. After that and some time with the parts washer / carb cleaner and an air gun it was all moving pretty smoothly again. As it turns out the little paper gasket itt comes with was still about the same as before install. Like it had never really been compressed / sealed. When these drive shafts are originally built, the ends are pressed and crimped on which we can't do at home and helps them make a good seal. By this time, I'd lost track of which way the joint went back on the shaft, and I can't remember now, but with it all clean and dry I tried it both ways to see which fit best and made the most sense. The snap ring definitely seats better one way vs the other. But the other issue is that if assembled as shown in the video above, the paper gasket sits in a recess and doesn't really seal against anything. (Especially since it can't be crimped back on at home.) *I WISH I COULD REMEMBER which way I reinstalled it now... Either way, try it both ways and decide for yourself if you lost track like I did after the original disassembly.... The key ingredient I'm getting to here is what I ended up doing that I haven't seen anywhere else. I cleaned up both faces after lubing it up, to the point of using a little carb cleaner on a edge of a rag to degrease the gasket sealing faces / surfaces and applied a thin coating of black RTV. I did this to both faces (boot and transfer case side / not just the paper gasket side) and to my amazement, it worked like new again. I was super surprised after how bad it sounded (like it was about to lock up) that it was working like new again. I didn't have enough wheel bearing grease on hand which I had decided to use for my experiment, so I looked around and found an old tube of OMC (boat) lower unit grease from a boat I had ages ago but had long since sold. It was blue (lol) like the grease my replacement joint had originally come with but seemed quite a bit thicker and a little tacky.... What the heck, I rolled the dice. Time will tell, but right now I trust this to go anywhere. The key takeaway IMHO is to use a little RTV on BOTH sides of the joint to keep any grease from escaping. YMMV. Good luck!
Defiantly, not on our rust belt. Took me a torch, an air hammer and some patients to remove the joint here in Indiana. Watching this while things are cooling off.
Mine wouldn't come out that way, I spent 2-3 hours trying every possible angle to remove it but it was a no-go till I pulled the cross member, after that it dropped right out. My Jeep is a 2005 GC Limited 5.7 with the factory skid plate package, it kept hitting the gas tank skid so it may only be my particular model
Great video. I just finished mine up I would think the job could be done with the axle unbolted and hanging to where you can get to the side needed done. I didnt try it that way but if anyone has let me know.
Tell me why you don’t use any of the correct tools. That is a flat head screwdriver, not a chisel. No need to lower the crossmember, shouldn’t be using impact on the 8mm bolts going into the transfer case. So much wrong with this video my brain hurts. This could have been a really great tutorial. 3/10.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
Having recently rebuilt one of these (twice), I can tell you that you'll want to pay extra close attention to see if any grease escapes after you've put a few miles on it, as well as going back to re-torque the bolts on each end after a good long test drive or w/in 50 miles or so. *Also pay close attention to which face of the bearing goes which way as you're taking the old (OEM assy) apart for the first time. They are different.
The first time I rebuilt mine after having torqued everything correctly, and reassembling the same way as it came apart, I noticed grease being slung out and stuck to the bottom of the Jeep in the surrounding area after having driven for a while. I didn't worry too much about it and figured it was just a little residual that was on the outer part of the sealing surfaces that got squeezed out. Fast forward to maybe a year later and 10k miles or so and it started making noise again one day. It went from no noise to wondering if I was going to make it home from a short 15-mile round trip to the grocery store.
Upon disassembly, I found the rear joint COMPLETELY dry and starting to friction weld itself together. I ordered a whole replacement drive shaft as this one looked like it was toast. But then since it was sitting there and it was going to be about a week or so before the new shaft arrived, I decided to experiment on it. I disassembled it again and cleaned it all up. It was definitely very crunchy and had some metal welding happening to some of the edges. I decided what the heck and took a file to the jagged pieces which worked pretty well. After that and some time with the parts washer / carb cleaner and an air gun it was all moving pretty smoothly again.
As it turns out the little paper gasket itt comes with was still about the same as before install. Like it had never really been compressed / sealed. When these drive shafts are originally built, the ends are pressed and crimped on which we can't do at home and helps them make a good seal. By this time, I'd lost track of which way the joint went back on the shaft, and I can't remember now, but with it all clean and dry I tried it both ways to see which fit best and made the most sense. The snap ring definitely seats better one way vs the other. But the other issue is that if assembled as shown in the video above, the paper gasket sits in a recess and doesn't really seal against anything. (Especially since it can't be crimped back on at home.) *I WISH I COULD REMEMBER which way I reinstalled it now...
Either way, try it both ways and decide for yourself if you lost track like I did after the original disassembly.... The key ingredient I'm getting to here is what I ended up doing that I haven't seen anywhere else. I cleaned up both faces after lubing it up, to the point of using a little carb cleaner on a edge of a rag to degrease the gasket sealing faces / surfaces and applied a thin coating of black RTV. I did this to both faces (boot and transfer case side / not just the paper gasket side) and to my amazement, it worked like new again. I was super surprised after how bad it sounded (like it was about to lock up) that it was working like new again. I didn't have enough wheel bearing grease on hand which I had decided to use for my experiment, so I looked around and found an old tube of OMC (boat) lower unit grease from a boat I had ages ago but had long since sold. It was blue (lol) like the grease my replacement joint had originally come with but seemed quite a bit thicker and a little tacky.... What the heck, I rolled the dice.
Time will tell, but right now I trust this to go anywhere. The key takeaway IMHO is to use a little RTV on BOTH sides of the joint to keep any grease from escaping. YMMV. Good luck!
+@4xAbuse Thanks for the feedback! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Great video, do you all have a video on how to replace the rear drive shaft for the same jeep?
Great video, at the beginning I kept closing my eyes when the debris was falling 😄
You are able to snake the driveshaft out forward through the exhaust bend for anyone who's about to attempt this.
Defiantly, not on our rust belt. Took me a torch, an air hammer and some patients to remove the joint here in Indiana. Watching this while things are cooling off.
I keep seeing guys removing the trans mount, there really is no need, it comes out from the rear and to the lower right hand side of the car.😎
Mine wouldn't come out that way, I spent 2-3 hours trying every possible angle to remove it but it was a no-go till I pulled the cross member, after that it dropped right out. My Jeep is a 2005 GC Limited 5.7 with the factory skid plate package, it kept hitting the gas tank skid so it may only be my particular model
Great video. I just finished mine up
I would think the job could be done with the axle unbolted and hanging to where you can get to the side needed done.
I didnt try it that way but if anyone has let me know.
Excellent video, thanks.
grease the boot also not just the shaft. dont let a dry boot drag
YOURS CAME APART EASIER THEN MINE I CANT GET THE CV JOINT TO COME OFF THE SHAFT. IVE HAMMERED IT AND USED A GEAR PULLER AND ITS STILL STUCK
Also its easier to remove the driveshaft from the rear after loosening the frame bolts almost all the way.
Se ve que es la primera ves que lo haces... como información esta bien. Pero para ser un taller mecánico algo falla
Thank you for the tutorial mate help me a lot.
U need to bring 1 side down
Tell me why you don’t use any of the correct tools. That is a flat head screwdriver, not a chisel. No need to lower the crossmember, shouldn’t be using impact on the 8mm bolts going into the transfer case. So much wrong with this video my brain hurts. This could have been a really great tutorial. 3/10.
My ball cage completely disinterested
I can't be the only one who cringed through most of this video. So much wrong.
0 you don't know to do