No Spark! Help!....Vintage Ignition Systems With Points. Part 1
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- Опубліковано 21 жов 2024
- Let's learn how to troubleshoot for no spark in your old car. I cover lots of theory here using illustrations and real parts examples to help you understand the system. Knowing why and how your ignition system does what is needs to, will make you a better mechanic!
Good job on a much needed subject. Looking forward to part 2.
I can't tell you how much these video's are helping me to navigate the ignition system in my 1947 DeSoto. We tried a first start after ten years the other night and it turned over fine but it would not catch. I'll go through your TDC video and this one and see if I can get the motor started. Thanks!!
Best explanation of dwell I've come across.
Fantastic video. Been working on pre 60's cars for years and your explanation of ignition coil and points taught me a lot.
AHA! AHA!! Thank you. I have a crank, no spark for my 1973 airhead mototcycle and you've enlightened me - it's probably my condenser. Also, my points gap was a little tighter than spec which would have help the spark jump the points rather than sending the electrical charge to my plugs.
Even if this isn't my problem, I understand it now thanks to you. Thanks!
I love your teaching methodology. Why couldn’t you have been my middle school math teacher??😅
Thanks for the illustration 💯 I learned something I really wanted to learn, I had other guys try to explain it but for whatever reason I couldn't get it, I got it this time , thanks 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video, just what i need to tackle my 1938 Austin. Very clear, thank you for taking the time! Best wishes keith
Nice simplified explanation. When I was a kid working in a gas station we would find amusement in charging up condensers and leaving them for a co worker to pick up. When we heard a scream we knew our mission had been accomplished. It was lots of fun until I accidentally nailed myself one day!
This helped me understand alot more about the inside of the distributor wiring and made me double check my connections to the ignition coil. Thank you. I had the lead wire and wire coming from the breaker points misunder stood and i when i was testing i was getting confused on my readings thank you
Good morning. Thank you for this information. It was a pleasure to watch and very informative with an entertaining vibe that anyone can understand at the basic level. Just what I needed to get started. Thank you. Stay safe and well.
Awesome video! Thanks for posting. I'm working on my Ford Flathead - changing points, condenser, coil. The engine is on a test stand. My issue is that it fires momentarily - then I crank it with no results. Fuel is fine, it's electrical. I'm working on it tonight. I'll post an up-date when I get it running.
I just got my first flathead 1951 dodge b3 and learning a lot for you thank you so much
Great video! Thanks! Off to part 2.
Awesome explanation of an essential part of the internal combustion engine.
Thank you!
This could not be explained any clearer, I love the slow pace especially since it’s a complicated subject for us who are not mechanically inclined. After viewing your video I feel I could teach this subject!
Glad to hear you enjoyed it. Thanks for the positive feeback.
Thanks Keith, great educational video.
This video just helped me get my 56 Ford 272 back going, I knew I had everything wired right and good parts still no power to points, turns out all you had to say was the connection between the outside and inside of distributor power wire couldn’t touch the housing !!!! Sure enough it was grounding out inside the distributor because the insulator was old and almost all gone ! Great video you said something that I haven’t heard on other points style ignition videos , good job and thank you very much !!
Great to hear. I’m so it glad helped you. For this was the video’s main purpose.
You saved me from tearing my hair out. 36 Desoto has been sitting in garage for 40 years. Everything looked great but no spark. It failed the first test. Points were closed but no continuity from ground to 6 volt wire from coil to distributor. A couple of strokes between points with emery cloth and Voila, spark! I had a feeling your site was going to work since my wife’s first name is Keeth.
Excellent! I'm glad to hear you got it sorted out.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
I have a 53 merc.. All original..255 flatty postive ground...video was perfect for me...
Thanks for the explanation of things. It was very helpful showing the distributor and points function. 2600RPM is 1300 fires of each spark plus because the distributor turns at half the speed of the crankshaft on a four stroke engine. That times the number of cylinders is the number of times the points open and close. Not sure if you describe dwell in degrees of rotation.
Thank you so much for your education.
Fantastic video and every aspect so well explained! Thank you.
Fantastic explanation! I’m finally getting it.
Thanks
Glad to hear.
I am inheriting a 1938 Chrysler Royal touring sedan is there any advise u can give me please respond I need as much assistance as possible
Maybe I missed something but even the old flatties are 4 stroke so you're only sparking every other rotation. So 2500 rpm \2 * 6 cylinders = 7500 sparks\min. The distributor is driven off the camshaft on most engines (not actually sure about that on the old flatties) and the camshaft is gear reduced and spinning slower than the engine
Hi Keith, coil winding ratios are essentially the same as the voltage increase ratio. So a 6v to 12000v increase means a 2000:1 ratio.
Thanks. Easy to remember that!
The windings will be 2000 turns to 1 for a 6 volt to 12000 volt step up. It was Faraday not Tesla who discovered this science. 2600 x 6 plugs = 15600 / sec - 64 microseconds between spark firings BTW. I'm an EE and I think you did a great job. I have a 39 Chrysler Royal...
Excellent explanation great job and video thanks.
Great content. Protonix does make electronic ignition for a Chrysler 6 volt positive ground system. I have one on my Coronet and I love it. One word of caution though if you have a dash pot solenoid you will need to run power to it from the starter.
Thanks. The coil theory and spark gap etc, also 100% applies to a car with a Pentronix. Only difference is how primary coil collapses. No points, breakerless with the pentronix. I’ve never owned a Pentronix. How is the dwell set?
@@keithsgarage5831 prity good vid except the condenser slows down the rate of change in primary voltage to allow the coil to work better. when the points close power is being wasted but also the condenser is drained, ready to start over.The coil cant work on DC. this is a lot to take in, good luck.Tom Higgins
Thanks Tom. I have much to learn about electricity. There indeed is much to take in.
Hey man good video. I this isn’t a car but I have a1979 dr 370 with points and no spark do you think the condenser is the same as a car
great video man really helpful!
Great video, I just subscribed and gave a thumbs up. Also has anyone ever said you sound a lot like Chevy Chase?
Not heard that comment before. Lol.
Awesome! Thank you very much! Most videos are hard to follow, yours is not. Getting ready to check all my wire routing in my 49 Coronet. My 63 imperial crown is running great so i havent had to do much beyond basic distributor maint.
Does the wire from the coil go to the plug humm
Great vidéo thank you !!
The Morski flick works sometimes with the points I learned that from Puddin Fab shop channel
Don't forget on the old cars to check the body ground straps. Usually from firewall to heads or starter to firewall. Loosen and retighten or clean. Do same on the power wires on the coil and distributor. If working on chrysler dual point distributor. You must set each side by advancing lobe on each side to set. It will appear you can set both points at same time without advancing the lobes. It will not start that way.
Awesome video!! Question,if i have the wires well should the pointers have spark if i break them manually? What if thay dont have? Thanks again!!
You should buy a cheap digital multimeter. Learn how to use it and diagnose things. Its super easy.
@@keithsgarage5831 thanks keith,you are awesome!
@@jewishpatriot.1754 Thanks man. A new video is in the works siting stage. Should be up next week.
I used 3 1936 Dodges to complete my 1936 Dodge Woodie and every one had a extra condenser in the glove box when I purchased it .
Hi Keith, I have a Mazda astina 323 BA, it’s. 1993-94 model. I accidentally shorted by condenser and now there is no spark. Since it has an inbelt coil, I changed the entire distributor bot nothing seems to work, the electrician suggested that it’s burnt the ECU I had it repaired but nothing. Any suggestions please😢
Excellent. So clear and well produced. One query. Why does the distributor vacuum rotate the breaker plate? Or why does the breaker plate rotate?
The breaker plate rotates both directions to automatically adjust spark timing based on engine load and speed. Spark timing is adjusted by 2 different ways. One by inertia weights and springs that expand and advance the timing at higher engine RPM. Two by engine vacuum that is hooked up to the distributor vacuum pot. The vacuum pot has a spring inside it as well that hold the breaker plate in place .As vacuum is increased it overcomes the spring and rotates the breaker plate.
@@keithsgarage5831 Great! That explains what happens when you rotate the distributor body when adjusting ignition timing according to the timing marks on the flywheel. Many thanks.
The reason for the metal jacket from the ignition switch to the coil is to shield the wier from the radio. With out the ignition wire would cause EMF interference with the radio all you would hear is pops and cracking from the radio. Tube radios are sensitive to emf interference. Ta da
My AM radio still works fine without it. The shield has been removed. The 6V signal from the ignition switch to the coil transfers the same 6V (low volt low amps) found the rest of the non-shielded wires up behind the dash. The shield was there for anti-theft is my understanding. The voltage wire from the coil to the distributor cap is heavily shielded. It is in the engine compartment. It potentially could potentially cause radio interference. However does not either. My AM tube radio works just fine.
@@keithsgarage5831 it's do to the wire is attached to the coil witch creates a high tension radio signal. Same as the early Corvettes had a shield around the distributor for that issue. Old point systems can effect people with pacemakers for the same reason.
great vid
ck points going open if they do not open no spark that is what gives you a path to he condenser that current flow thru the small coil gives very high current flow due to mag netic effect set points at 20
My breaker plate bearings were rusted, i replaced it and now it moves freely, car is not running yet but wondering how you test the vacuum advance is working properly?
A vacuum pump to suck the diaphragm open. Test linkage. Is it moving? Mighty-Vac works well. Or timing light on. Rev engine a little. Is timing advancing?
Anyone know why I can get a spark at the points but nothing to the plugs.
Even taking the HT lead of the distributor and earthing it to the engine block produces no spark. Brand new coil hasn't made any difference. Help.
Same problem idk
Do you still need help?
I have changed the coil, have changed the points, I have changed the condenser. I have constant hot to the pos side of the coil. I have flashing light on the testor on the neg side of the coil. This should indicate the points are doing their job. BUT I have no spark coming from the coil. I need help as I have exhausted my ability to rectify this situation. what am I missing?
Are you working on a positive ground system? The spark from the centre of the coil has to pass into the distributor cap. Good firm connection there? Good known wire from coil to distributor cap? Carbon piece present up inside the centre of distributor cap? Good clean rotor in place? All 6 plug wire contacts inside cap clean? Any carbon tracking inside cap? Good spark plug wires? What is your spark plug gap? Good clean spark plugs? Is you engine properly grounded so high voltage can jump gap at plug and return other side of battery post? Tight. Clean ground connections at engine block? What is your battery voltage?
@@keithsgarage5831 73 jeep commando, 304 V8 neg ground . I am not getting anything out of the coil tower. nada. test light confirms engine block, coil housing all well grounded. I was driving the jeep went to town, stopped at parts place, stopped again then nothing, turns over, but no spark, was then i changed out those 3 components, even tried a hot wire from the battery to the coil, still no spark from the coil
th distributor was recently rebuilt, the components were basically all new when the jeep failed to start. I just installed the coil, new a week ago. after changing all those parts one at a time plus buying tools I didn't have I gave up after a few hours and called a rollback.
Question! What if my coil is getting hot and still showing ground with test light even though I'm holding the points open by hand? I'm lost and have no idea how to solve this
The primary wire going into or out of the coil maybe frayed. Possibly having exposed internal wires touching ground.
@@keithsgarage5831 ok thanks for the reply
if capasitor is bad it-- could give a false gd turn switch off to remove voltage till you find the false gd disc condenser lead from screw------- condenser will read open if good set ohms on high scale should still read open ( no reading) if it ok any reading is bad toss it #s will flash and fall back -normal if #s stay its badturn switch on see if gd is gone cond, disc. if you still havea prob. the coil may be bad i have repaced a few coils made in mexico they used too small wire want last long
@@frankdavidson9675 ok thanks I will see what I can figure out
So it's got to be a blue spark rather than an orange one ?
Blue just means higher voltage. Hotter, stronger spark. Depending on how your ignition system was designed, and well well maintained, will dictate spark colour. Over time as engine compression numbers increased, system voltages also did.
Rpm 2600 x 6cyl =15600 = sparks per min your flat head is just another olde banger .... but nice you have restored and have it running 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 great stuff
I have a small engine with this, and I get power to the top of the plug, but no spark. I put the plug in another engine and it has spark. I cleaned the points and the coil seems to be working (idk how he tested it). What would anybody suggest?
A circuit is a circle. The spark plug will fire if electricity can find a quick way back to the battery. Is the cylinder head and block connected to ground? (the path back to the battery)
@@keithsgarage5831 yes. We have even tried putting it in other locations and without the plug, but still no spark. I'm just lost as to what to do next.. other than grabbing parts from other projects and hope they are the right size
Its a pull start generator, but my meter says there is an electric current going from the block to the spark plug wire
It just woke up and decided to work this morning for some reason
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 😎
2800 rpm,,,, it’s not a 2 stroke right?
No not a CZ motor 😮 😂😂😂
Hi
Triple.a.teacher.thank.youtube