Ejector Insert for a Manual Injection Mold
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- I needed a way to eject a part from a mold and Ritchie Manning from Manning Innovations, www.manninginn..., sent me a sketch of a simple way to eject parts that he's used before for manual injection molds designed for bench-top machines. I tried it out and it worked very well. And it was easier than I expected.
2" diameter Try Fly:
www.shrumsolut...
/ shrum_solutions
I love how every time I see one of these moulds, they are just that tiny bit more complex, but for a specific reason.
I'm definitely still learning, which is what makes this fun.
awesome great job love the ingenuity of the spring loaded insert.. this is all such a cool process to watch from CAD to final milling
Great video 👍 John liked the cap screw not screwing into the hole , it's one of those moments like , "I forgot to turn the electric on " Doh! Keep up the good work.
Thanks. Yes, that was certainly a Doh! moment.
Great idea 👍
So satisfying watching you putting two parts together that fit so well.
It certainly is!
As a man that has tapped many holes by hand, I could watch a machine do it for me all day too.
He he. I enjoyed the occasional tapping by hand until I tried rigid tapping. Took all the fun out of hand tapping.
OMG. I've been watching you for years. You have learned so much. You're more advanced than I am but I've learned along the way also. I feel your joy when you were pulling that part out. You're a very smart guy. You've bought so much equipment like me, only more. You're way more advanced than I am at the cam cad also. Thought I heard you say you were a programmer. Love to see your work and all your new machines. Great job. I'm sure all the beginners out there are learning so much from you. Do you do drawings for people? Thanks
Impressive ,indeed.
Thanks!
Very nice work, John!
Many thanks! See you soon...
Man, you are genius....
Thanks, but I can't take credit for this idea. I got it from Ritchie Manning from Manning Innovations. He's da man!
Very nice, thanks. Also on a Haas if you haven't already done so check to make sure setting 133 is on. Without it the first time you try to rigid peck tap it will be a bad day.
Thanks. I'll have to check that setting. I have not thought about doing peck tapping. But should definitely check that when I'm at the machine next.
I've seen ones like this on some injection molding industrial workshop videos and wondered how one would make it, so it doesn't show. Very nice job. Wonder if a water cooled block could help harden the material more for quick resets and less witness marks. Your setup makes one jealous!
The aluminum does a really good job removing heat from the part--much better than steel. There are usually two reasons for needing cooling channels. The first is if you're using a steel mold, because of it's poorer thermal conductivity. And the second is if you're running thousands of parts in a run, which typically means you have an automatic machine. For desktop machines, you can usually just take a little break.
John, if you use smooth hard jaws and set an X axis stop you can skip the Haimer. And note down the different known locations (e.g. the Y coordinate of your fixed jaw), it speeds up setup. Serrated jaws are great for aggressive profile milling and minimum stock waste, but not necessary or ideal for what you were doing.
True. I got back and forth between the serrated jaws and the hard smooth jaws. But I need to change the Z offset in the controller. So there actually isn't much difference in setup times between the two approaches, unless I dedicated a different work offset for each set of parallels. That's because I'm not setting the Z offset each time--I'm relying on the accuracy of the homing on the Haas, which is very accurate.
Very nice! Your tool box is getting larger John. You could put a logo on a ejecter and it would be framed.
Thanks. And, I could have different inserts for different logos.
muy buen dias saludos desde venezuela una pregunta dode concigo una prensa como la que usa para sujetar el molde de aluninio ???
John love the channel and have been learning a lot about ejection molding. Love to see the passion, and innovation every time you run into a challenge however small.
What kind of molding pressure were you running on the injected plastic and what kind of spring force were your dealing with here?
Looking at something similar to this "manual action" for a carbon fiber compression .
great video! just one question. your hypothesis is that the 10 deg draft angle allows the plastic to move the ejector very slightly back, creating the witness mark. Is the entire witness mark raised, or is there a 'raised' frame around the plate, perhaps indicating that the witness mark is actually a ring around the ejector plate outline? Any idea of the 'life expectancy' of the mold? Aluminum is not the most durable mold material :)
I'm such a candy ass when it comes to rigid tapping. For most stuff I will choose to do thread milling instead of rigid tapping, and if I don't have a cutter small enough I'll hand tap.
As I understand, rigid tapping is "safer" than hand tapping. Not to mention being a whole lot easier and faster.
@@JohnSL really? I've broken so many taps doing ridged tapping, hence me being gun shy.
Although I'm sure the cost of the moulds depends on their size and complexity it would be extremely helpful to know the approximate cost of getting a mould made (by CNC presumeably?) such as the one used here. Thanks.
I know there is a company in China that makes molds and their minimum charge is $500.
Can you lazer on plastic? Beautiful piece of machining.
Yes, you can use a CO2 laser to etch plastic. You do get a bit of melting around the edges, so it's not the cleanest look. But it does work.
16:09 Hi John! Out of curiosity, did this part have straight walls (and if so, what was the depth into the mold?).
I have a 0.23” tall part I’d like to inject at home with straight walls, looking for a basis for feasibility. (Here ABS and 0.045” wall thickness)
(New subscriber… you are the first content creator to tickle all the engineering/DIY senses of a polymer engineer such as myself! Kudos, and amazing work!)
(New guy here, don't judge me) Would it also not be possible to have the spring pushing the ejector into the mould, using the pressure of injection pushing it flush? Would the spring then not eject the part when the mould was opened?
Generally springs are not used that way in molds because doing so would reduce the clamping force. Plus, in this case, the plastic would likely get into the moveable part before it pushed it out of the way.
@@JohnSL Oh, ok. Well, like I said, I'm a newbie to this! Thank you for your reply, and, your videos are great!
yay.
you should have made the surface that pushes the part 100% of the bottom surface. in this way it would not leave the mark of the ejector.
I went back and forth with the customer about this. As it turns out, they laser etch some information on the back after molding, so the ejector mark actually creates a nice frame around the text. Sometimes you get lucky.