Hey Arry 😎👍 I love seeing the Stags preserved and restored. It was one of my favourite cars back in the early seventies when I was a mechanic at a Rover/Triumph dealer in Bognor Regis. The TR6 was nice but the Stag was much smoother and"refined" 😏 I even got to go on a Stag training course in Coventry and a course on the Borg Warner 35 at Rover in Solihull 😁 The good old days indeed. Been in Canada for the last 44 years, only seen a couple of Stags since I have been here 😕 Enjoy yours !!😃
There is actually 3 drives into the gearbox. The two male splined shafts on the gearbox engage with the female splines on the stator and impeller inside the torque converter. Engine speed regulates the slip and multiplication inside the torque converter. Multiplying the torque until it reaches a point where it's in lock up, directly driving engine to gearbox. The two tangs on the torque converter drive the gearbox oil pump at engine speed. The oil pump creates the oil pressure needed to work the various multi plate clutches, servo's and brake bands via a shuttle valve in a maze like oil gallery block. That sends oil pressure to the various gear parts to clamp or release them to change gears. Don't attempt to remove that "plug" to put oil in ! That is the front brake band adjuster and must be adjusted accurately or it will burn out the brake band. There is a duplicate further back for the rear brake band. If they are disturbed, the box won't work. It will slip and judder and friction material on the bands and clutches will shred or burn out. You fill the gearbox oil via the dip tube. Fill it to approximately the correct amount, start engine and slowly move through the gear selector several times, to prime the system and purge air. Dip it several times and top up as needed. Don't attempt to drive it without it being near the correct level. It needs checking according to the individual car make. Some are checked with engine stopped, and others at tick over. You will probably need to get the gear oil pressure accurately checked as the kickdown cable adjustment to engine speed regulates the oil at the correct pressure, to avoid blowing seals inside.
@@ArryTheStag No Problem Tony, good luck with it. Borg Warner 35 and 65 are not a mystery to work on, once you know how the internals work and which will fit to what car. They all have different coloured ID plates, to denote what series the gearbox is, and the makes and models of vehicle it was originally built to fit. The centre sections are all basically alike, the bellhousing and tail piece can be swapped to suit individual models. The main differences being the multi plate clutch packs and other internals were built up to suit different engine power output and gearing. I've had dozens of them, mostly in Rover P5, P6 and SD1. The BW35 was getting near the limit of power it could handle when bolted on a Rover V8, the BW65 was much smoother and better suited to that, and the Triumph V8.
The inhibitor switch is actuated mechanically inside the gearbox to prevent the starter from energizing unless N or P are selected, and it also acts as a backup light switch.
I read somewhere that taking the torque converter off the gearbox is a no no as it's very difficult to get back on without damaging it? For example if you seperate the gearbox from the engine without unbolting the torque converter first. Do you know if this is true for older gearboxes like B.W. 35 and 65's?
@@ArryTheStag Cheers Tony&Andy! I couldn't see any obvious reason why there'd be a problem. I managed to pop the torque converter back in, no problem. I did it with the gearbox stood up vertically. The TC is a little wobbly in situ, not sure if thats normal?
Arry, The Borg-Warner type 35 gearbox is the worst automatic gearbox. I have overhauled many of these and it of poor quality. Back in the 70's, you were lucky to get 40,000 miles out of a gearbox. One of my cars was 1974 Wolesely Six, which was stuck in the snow. I tried to rock it out of soft snow, which I have done on many cars. I drove it home and parked it in the garage. On the following morning, I started the car and found it was driving in neutral gear. I took the engine out and found the front clutch plates had welded together. Other people who I knew had cars with the same gearbox and they had trouble with them also. Stemming from worn-out brake bands, clutch plate and oil leaks, all before 40,000 miles. To compare the Borg-Warner Type 35, I owned a Jeep Grand Cherokee and it had 217,000 miles on it with the same gearbox without any faults
Thanks Bill - luckily we know a man who can fix them..but yes the BW's are rather highly strung and let down when neglected says Andy The Clutch! All the best TR T
Tony its a drivplate on a auto not a flywheel ,and that lock nut & bolt looks like a brakeband adjuster not a fill point . You fill a auto box through dipstick tube with engine running @ tickover. Gotto keep us stag owners up to date , you missed two summers with your stag stop messing and get it back on the road where it belongs , all the best Tony .
Hey Arry 😎👍
I love seeing the Stags preserved and restored. It was one of my favourite cars back in the early seventies when I was a mechanic at a Rover/Triumph dealer in Bognor Regis. The TR6 was nice but the Stag was much smoother and"refined" 😏
I even got to go on a Stag training course in Coventry and a course on the Borg Warner 35 at Rover in Solihull 😁
The good old days indeed. Been in Canada for the last 44 years, only seen a couple of Stags since I have been here 😕
Enjoy yours !!😃
There is actually 3 drives into the gearbox. The two male splined shafts on the gearbox engage with the female splines on the stator and impeller inside the torque converter. Engine speed regulates the slip and multiplication inside the torque converter. Multiplying the torque until it reaches a point where it's in lock up, directly driving engine to gearbox. The two tangs on the torque converter drive the gearbox oil pump at engine speed. The oil pump creates the oil pressure needed to work the various multi plate clutches, servo's and brake bands via a shuttle valve in a maze like oil gallery block. That sends oil pressure to the various gear parts to clamp or release them to change gears. Don't attempt to remove that "plug" to put oil in ! That is the front brake band adjuster and must be adjusted accurately or it will burn out the brake band. There is a duplicate further back for the rear brake band. If they are disturbed, the box won't work. It will slip and judder and friction material on the bands and clutches will shred or burn out. You fill the gearbox oil via the dip tube. Fill it to approximately the correct amount, start engine and slowly move through the gear selector several times, to prime the system and purge air. Dip it several times and top up as needed. Don't attempt to drive it without it being near the correct level. It needs checking according to the individual car make. Some are checked with engine stopped, and others at tick over. You will probably need to get the gear oil pressure accurately checked as the kickdown cable adjustment to engine speed regulates the oil at the correct pressure, to avoid blowing seals inside.
@@ArryTheStag No Problem Tony, good luck with it. Borg Warner 35 and 65 are not a mystery to work on, once you know how the internals work and which will fit to what car. They all have different coloured ID plates, to denote what series the gearbox is, and the makes and models of vehicle it was originally built to fit. The centre sections are all basically alike, the bellhousing and tail piece can be swapped to suit individual models. The main differences being the multi plate clutch packs and other internals were built up to suit different engine power output and gearing. I've had dozens of them, mostly in Rover P5, P6 and SD1. The BW35 was getting near the limit of power it could handle when bolted on a Rover V8, the BW65 was much smoother and better suited to that, and the Triumph V8.
The inhibitor switch is actuated mechanically inside the gearbox to prevent the starter from energizing unless N or P are selected, and it also acts as a backup light switch.
I read somewhere that taking the torque converter off the gearbox is a no no as it's very difficult to get back on without damaging it? For example if you seperate the gearbox from the engine without unbolting the torque converter first. Do you know if this is true for older gearboxes like B.W. 35 and 65's?
@@ArryTheStag Cheers Tony&Andy! I couldn't see any obvious reason why there'd be a problem. I managed to pop the torque converter back in, no problem. I did it with the gearbox stood up vertically. The TC is a little wobbly in situ, not sure if thats normal?
Arry, The Borg-Warner type 35 gearbox is the worst automatic gearbox. I have overhauled many of these and it of poor quality. Back in the 70's, you were lucky to get 40,000 miles out of a gearbox. One of my cars was 1974 Wolesely Six, which was stuck in the snow. I tried to rock it out of soft snow, which I have done on many cars. I drove it home and parked it in the garage. On the following morning, I started the car and found it was driving in neutral gear. I took the engine out and found the front clutch plates had welded together. Other people who I knew had cars with the same gearbox and they had trouble with them also. Stemming from worn-out brake bands, clutch plate and oil leaks, all before 40,000 miles. To compare the Borg-Warner Type 35, I owned a Jeep Grand Cherokee and it had 217,000 miles on it with the same gearbox without any faults
Thanks Bill - luckily we know a man who can fix them..but yes the BW's are rather highly strung and let down when neglected says Andy The Clutch! All the best TR T
Tony its a drivplate on a auto not a flywheel ,and that lock nut & bolt looks like a brakeband adjuster not a fill point .
You fill a auto box through dipstick tube with engine running @ tickover.
Gotto keep us stag owners up to date , you missed two summers with your stag stop messing and get it back on the road where it belongs , all the best Tony .
hi i have a borg warner 35 would you have this andys website or contact details id like to see what he can do for my box , thanks ben
Your"oil filler" is a brake band adjuster.😁