Hyaluronic acid in cosmetic formulas
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- Опубліковано 11 вер 2024
- Confused about which is the best size of hyaluronic acid to use in your formula, and what all the different types and size of hyaluronic acid do in a formula anyway? In this video, Belinda Carli, Director of Institute of Personal Care Science, provides a summary of the different molecular weight ranges for hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate as well as how much to use, and how to add it to your formulas. Make confident hyaluronic acid formula selections, watch now!
Learn to formulate all types of cosmetics and personal care with the Institute of Personal Care Science, the world’s leading online Professional training program to become a Cosmetic Chemist, and for Cosmetic Science, Cosmetic Formulation, Regulatory Affairs, and Brand Management. Offering Certificate, Advanced Certificate, and Diploma courses, our training is Internationally and Industry Recognised around the world. Study at a time and place that suits you with full study support and Cosmetic Chemist level training.
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Thanks, that was very insightful and clear. So many people complain and get dissatisfied about HA, must be due to this couple of issues with high shear and temperature.👍🤩 I am adjusting some of my methods from now on.
thanks for your Content
Please email us for full formulation, method and supplier details: info@personalcarescience.com.au we provide this free. Happy formulating!
I have a question, if a gel serum has Hyaluronic Acid, is it better to have the skin damp and then apply it or it won’t make a difference? For example, if my skin is dry and I don’t wet it a bit, then apply the H.A, it won’t make my skin drier? I’ve seen dermatologists saying to damp the skin for the H.A to work better and I have seen others say that it doesn’t matter, so I am confused. And thank you for this video! It really helps a lot!
It depends on the MW of hyaluronic used. Nothing to do with how wet your skin is. Learn how to formulate with active ingredients, including how to stabilise them in your formulas and check quality/stability with our Certificate in Advanced Cosmetic Science: personalcarescience.com.au/CosmeticScience/CertificateinAdvancedCosmeticScience-478/ or Diploma of Personal Care Formulation: personalcarescience.com.au/CosmeticScience/DiplomaofPersonalCareFormulation-479/
Wow! This was very insightful, very detailed information. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Belinda,
Most recipes I see they include the HA in the heated water phase. Is that wrong and does it affect the formulation? Should we be adding in the cool down phase?
HA will oxidise in a formula - heat increases the rate of oxidation. My recommendation for a better shelf life is not to heat it. Learn how to formulate with active materials professionally and check stability with our Certificate in Advanced Cosmetic Science: personalcarescience.com.au/CosmeticScience/CertificateinAdvancedCosmeticScience-478/ and Diploma of Personal Care Formulation: personalcarescience.com.au/CosmeticScience/DiplomaofPersonalCareFormulation-479/
Thank you so much for the info so much very important much love
Dropping some gems as usual...
THANK U Miss Belinda for my requested video😊😊😊
Thanks for watching!
@@theinstituteofpersonalcare6401 😊😊 can u please add "clear gel primer" to your list
Thank you so much..nice content..
Most welcome! Please email us for full formulation, method and supplier details: info@personalcarescience.com.au we provide this free. Happy formulating!
I’m adding a Hyaluronic acid solution to my lip balm formula (with an emulsifier) how do I add it? If it can’t be exposed to heat, do I need to add it to the balm formula when fully cooled?
Hi, thank you for the video, it was very informative! I have a question, I saw that in a formulation you made in another video where you guys talk about how to choose the best active you add the HA at the end right after you add the last phase ingredients (vitamin e and preservative) but then in another where you talk about how to formulate with you tool: Create Cosmetic Formulas, the formulation is a Hydrating and Moisturizing Serum, in this formula you add the HA right at the begining in phase A... How can I know when to add it, does it make any difference? I understand now that you cannot heat it but it is still not clear for me when you add it... Is it because in one formula (the first one) you need to heat the water phase to mix it with the heated oil phase and in the second video, you do not have to heat anything at all? is this the difference? In my case I need to heat the phases... I have tried to add it in the last phase after the emulsion is made but I feel that the HA does not mix together with the formula completely, don´t you need to hydrate the HA in order to add it first like it was a gum? If this is the case, can I save some water or glycerin from the water phase and hydrate the HA with it and then add it at the end of everything? Thank you so much for your help! :)
The difference is in which mixer is used (do not expose HA to high shear) - but if only low shear is used, you can add it at the start. Do not expose to heat, it will oxidise - so if heat is not used, and only low shear, you can add it at the start. Learn how to formulate with active ingredients, including how to stabilise them in your formulas and check quality/stability with our Certificate in Advanced Cosmetic Science: personalcarescience.com.au/CosmeticScience/CertificateinAdvancedCosmeticScience-478/ or Diploma of Personal Care Formulation: personalcarescience.com.au/CosmeticScience/DiplomaofPersonalCareFormulation-479/
I used use the mixer to solubility the hiluronic acid powder, is it wrong? Because it may cause shear.
Thanks from Brazil!
Hi,Belinda. Nice video. Could you tell me plaase if Hilasome EG-10 ( Hialuronic Acid Crosspolimer) Is less sticky .Can l used in my formulas.Thank a lot.
Thanks for watching!
Good information, but I’m a little confused - have purchased from a number of suppliers, and they have all said it has good heat stability, & should be added during the water phase?
Your info from Suppliers is correct - I checked with head chemist in Sydney and they confirm all good to add in heated water phase - it would only be an issue if you were to heat your Water phase for over 3 hours above 70 degrees which of course you wouldnt do.
Of course it is water soluble - you add it to the water phase - just don’t high shear medium or high molecular weight HA. It will oxidise, so heating is not advised. You don’t have to listen to me, but from my experience, low shear and no heat gives you better long term stability, so why take the risk? Adjust your method and you will have a more stable formula. Learn how to formulate with active materials professionally and check stability with our Certificate in Advanced Cosmetic Science: personalcarescience.com.au/CosmeticScience/CertificateinAdvancedCosmeticScience-478/ and Diploma of Personal Care Formulation: personalcarescience.com.au/CosmeticScience/DiplomaofPersonalCareFormulation-479/
You recommend no more than 0.5%, and so does a cosmetic supplier i use, but why do the most famous serums contain 2% ?
They may be using it as a gelling agent - 2% as a gelling agent is perfectly acceptable, this would be the high molecular weight form. You don’t need more than 0.5% for efficacy/performance - but 2% is used for gelling. Watch my HA gel with sodium PCA video: ua-cam.com/video/n3mBS7Q8TaY/v-deo.html
@@theinstituteofpersonalcare6401 but is it safe to use at 2% ?
Just as I was thinking about so many questions about a couple formulations with HA (high molecular) and they got answered here, i used high shear with emulsification and now I know I have to add it afterwards :] I was wondering why it got so sticky and got a different texture and suspected the shear level, thanks Belinda :D By the way, if we're using it as a gelling agent, do you reckon it would be better on its own or does it function well with a gum like xanthan smooth? c:
now that I think about it is xanthan gum also shear sensitive? what about other polymers? it would be really great if you could do a video about cosmetic ingredients and their shear sensitivity/resistance :]
If you are using high molecular weight HA as your gelling agent, then you don’t need xanthan gum - it could just make it cloudy and sticky. Polymers - you have to be careful with, treat them as if they are shear sensitive unless the supplier tells you otherwise. Xanthan gum/natural gums are not shear sensitive. Learn how to determine shear sensitivity with gums and polymers from small suppliers with our Can I use a different gum workshop: personalcarescience.com.au/Workshops/GumsandPolymerworkshop-4187/ or learn to make these selections and formulate professionally with our Certificate in Advanced Cosmetic Science: personalcarescience.com.au/CosmeticScience/CertificateinAdvancedCosmeticScience-478/ and Diploma of Personal Care Formulation: personalcarescience.com.au/CosmeticScience/DiplomaofPersonalCareFormulation-479/
Thank you very much for the information. I thought that low molecular weight HA was associated with skin irritation. My question: How would you mix the different weights of hyaluronic acid in a formula? (Asking for my Mom)
You can add them directly to water. No, low molecular weight doesn't cause skin irritation, it can cause a rush of internal moisture to the skin though, that can be described as warm or tingling. It will settle shortly after use, or use a lower input particularly in the less dry skin types (like Asian and African/Caribbean) - those skin types will tend to 'feel' this sensation more. Learn how to formulate with active ingredients, including how to stabilise them in your formulas and check quality/stability with our Certificate in Advanced Cosmetic Science: personalcarescience.com.au/CosmeticScience/CertificateinAdvancedCosmeticScience-478/ or Diploma of Personal Care Formulation: personalcarescience.com.au/CosmeticScience/DiplomaofPersonalCareFormulation-479/
Thankyou for the insight 💖.
By the way, i need to know about best non sticky feel polymers/thickeners for creams or gel serum? 😊
Learn how to make gums and polymer selections from small suppliers with our Can I use a different gum workshop: personalcarescience.com.au/Workshops/GumsandPolymerworkshop-4187/ or learn to make these selections and formulate professionally with our Certificate in Advanced Cosmetic Science: personalcarescience.com.au/CosmeticScience/CertificateinAdvancedCosmeticScience-478/ and Diploma of Personal Care Formulation: personalcarescience.com.au/CosmeticScience/DiplomaofPersonalCareFormulation-479/
is it only good for cold emulsions if you shouldn't expose to heat? do I add to water phase?
Learn how to formulate with active ingredients, including how to stabilise them in your formulas and check quality/stability with our Certificate in Advanced Cosmetic Science: personalcarescience.com.au/CosmeticScience/CertificateinAdvancedCosmeticScience-478/ or Diploma of Personal Care Formulation: personalcarescience.com.au/CosmeticScience/DiplomaofPersonalCareFormulation-479/