Het’s playing style (using mostly down strokes) actually it’s easier to play fast down strokes for rhythm more accurately with the guitar hung lower also his strap height has changed over the years he doesn’t wear it as low as he did around Justice and the black album also he plays mostly rhythm so down towards the nut , the lead players that play their guitars way low always brace it on their knees when playing lead propping their feet on monitors. Play your guitar whenever it’s comfortable for you personally you’ll know if your ergonomics are wrong your body will tell you.
Regarding pickup height..you are totally correct, dude. I'd be willing to bet that 90% of pickup changes could be avoided if guys just raised or lowered their existing/stock pickups. I've been guilty of it myself when I was younger. I always used to think that certain pickups were too 'boomy'..so I'd replace them instead of just adjusting down a bit.
1000% true! I had no idea this was a thing for the longest time. It makes a very large difference and some pickups are very picky about their distance from the strings. Like down to the millimeter.
Floyd adjustments are easy. Block the trem with a stack of coins or picks so it won't pull back and wits flat. Turn the the screws on the claw a turn or 2 to make sure it won't move and do your work. Once you have your intonation/bridge height. When you are all done and tuned up loosen the claw until the picks you blocked the trem with come out. Finally and most importantly tune with the claw. Then you are all set and ready to go. Anything Floyd or recessed will work that way and save hours. You can do the same with a 6 screw but put picks between the base and the body on the top side to block it for set up. The mounting screws are weird but there is a great evh bumblebee setup video that goes over how to get the proper torque on them.
Well, having worked on a lot of people's guitars, both of the beginner level and those with way more experience that me, you might be surprised how few guitarists know how to work on their own guitars--or just choose not to. Thankfully these days, a lot more people are taking the DIY approach and learning how to do it but, I didn't want to get into Floyd setup in this video since that is a whole separate video. It's not like it's that difficult or impossible but, we are talking about people who may not even know what intonation is yet! So this tip is designed for those that may not be aware of it yet. If you already know how to or desire setting up a Floyd on your own, then this tip is already below your level if you know what I mean. But I do appreciate your comments and explaining this for those that may want to dive deeper and do it themselves. It's not hard but, it's also not that much fun either! I try not to use any of my Floyd-equipped guitars unless I have to. Haha.
@@johnmccallummusic true with people not to wanting to work on them. Th Floyd thing is the one time I have seen a "one simole tick" kind of video be accurate. It would be great to have a non Fu tone video to send people.
@@CyberChrist if you have a good trem (original, 1000, edge, Schaller) and the correct matching hardened or zinc posts you can do it. If you have zinc/pot metal knife edges you will dull them.
I agree! I am a fan of the Hipshot Tremsetter. I have them on several guitars. I have some other stabilizer types as well but when set up well, the Tremsetter works great!
I ajust the strap height to be the same as if the guitar is sitting on my lap. Sitting how I play the guitar most of the time. It looks a little goofy but it is comfortable to me.
Nothing wrong with that! At least it's more acceptable now. Back when I was starting out, the whole crowd would laugh at you for having it that high, which is why I had to make mine lower, then I injured my wrist!
THANK YOU SO MUCH! I really appreciate it KK. Some of this is inspired by conversations with you actually! So just want to help as many others as I can with things that I’ve learned over the course of 30+ years. 😎
Worth mentioning right at the top of the Intonation section that nothing you do at the bridge will solve incorrect intonation until the nut slots are properly cut. I know you did a whole section on the nut but worth reiterating because people are scared of cutting nut slots. Once a player learns how to do it, they will be doing it to all their guitars. Because intonation is probably out on at least 90% of them. Yes, proper nut cutting files are expensive but if you have many guitars they are money well spent. Thank you for a thoughtful and helpful video.
Yes, that is why I basically said to take it to a professional at this stage since this primarily oriented towards those in the first few years of their playing. Once you get to a certain point, you might start doing more DIY work and cutting the nut slots is easy in theory but, it's also very easy to mess them up by going too deep, which I have done way too many times! So I didn't want to suggest that in this video since it can cause someone a major headache in a hurry. But you are correct, it is money well spent once you learn how. Pretty much every guitar I've ever gotten needed it done immediately. They are basically unplayable to me until it's done!
Physical injury? Yes, A complete shoulder replacement. After surgery, playing guitar HURTS. It’s amazing just how much playing guitar can cause real damage.
Man, so sorry to hear that! I know what you mean though, my shoulder is pretty bad. Some days I can't lift my left arm above my head after I have done a gig. It may need surgery at some point too.
When you're using a tuner and there's a big swing from the target pitch, that can be a sign that the truss rod needs to be tightened. It will go sharp on the attack and flat on the sustain. The corrections are so precise they're measured in thousands of an inch. I can tell the difference between 14/1000 on my strat just by the way the high strings bend above the 9th fret.
Yeah, I'm very sensitive to it as well. The truss rod makes a huge difference and can go south on you quick. I have come to hate outdoor gigs for this reason. I always know it's going to be off after being out in the weather all day. We get a lot of gigs where it rains, then the sun comes back out so it goes from hot and dry, to cold and humid, then hot and humid in the course of an hour. Nightmare for things made of wood! Thanks for your comment!
@@johnmccallummusic the heat and humidity are terrible. There's been a tiny gap on the left side of the neck pocket of one of my guitars ever since a heat wave in the late spring. I can barely slip a playing card in the widest point but it's enough to make the low e buzz on the upstroke.
John - thank you for this excellent, informative and entertaining video. A great list of things to keep in mind, and I couldn’t agree more with all of them! This is a valuable resource for anyone who plays guitar, at any level. I especially appreciate that, for certain things, you recommend taking the guitar to a professional. That’s very helpful and will save many of us lots of angst!
The only correct answer for strap height is "What is most comfortable", that's different from person to person. For me, that's strumming at buckle height, but with the neck angled upwards at about a 45° angle or thereabouts. It's as personal a thing as picks and string gauges where there is no one size fits all
For sure, which is what I ended that section with. I find it also greatly depends on the guitar. For example, my SG has the strap button in the base of the neck and with that one I can have it a little lower because I can easily angle the neck upwards, like you said, whereas my Strats, etc. It's impossible for me to get them at that same angle due to the strap button placement. I have thought about modding them to put it in the same spot as the SG (I have seen it done). But guys like Steve Vai for example have very long arms and long fingers so, he can get away with it much lower than someone like me!
I play low on electric and at the belly acoustic. Low had never made me sore no mattter how long i play like that. Maybe because i put the guitar down from time to time to WORKOUT
8 of those things are SUPPOSED to be sorted when the dealer takes their MARKUP for the initial 'setup' of your guitar. I am old enough to remember that lie
It’s true they used to do these things for you when you bought a guitar. Sometimes they still do. I have a good local shop where I got my acoustic guitars that set them up well before I got them home. They also used to at least give you a new set of strings too! (This local acoustic shop gave me some nice strings with them.)
Very true! I'm pretty clumsy and was always tripping over my cable until I started using wireless. It also makes it a lot easier to walk across the stage to rock out with or talk to the other band members.
My theory on how to choose the right size guitar neck: Droop your fretting hand and let your fingers and thumb be perfectly relaxed. Look at the distance between your thumb and first finger tips and that should be the ideal thickness of a guitar neck for you. Anything more or less than that means you will be using needless extra muscle energy in your hand when you are playing.
Great tip! I think the style you play and how you naturally like to place your hand on the neck are also a big factor. If you are a shredder type who likes to play with your thumb anchored in roughly the middle of the back of the neck then a thinner neck profile like the Ibanez Wizard style or asymmetric profile (like those on a Strandberg) are going to be the best choices for you. If you are like me and more prefer to wrap your thumb around the neck instead, then the thicker ones will be more comfortable. I personally think the standard Fender C profile is a perfect compromise for most people and a good starting point.
@@johnmccallummusic I can see if you are a shredder that plays fast scales and anchors your thumb in the back you might want a slimmer neck or if you are a thumb wrapper you might want something more rounded, but for an average Joe like me I think my theory makes sense. I have a Guild S-100 with a slim neck and I actually find it harder to play. I have to exert a certain amount of muscle energy just to get my fingertips to touch the strings.
Yeah, if I'm using guitars strictly for recording in the studio, I might use a thinner neck just for tracking leads and something that is the opposite for rhythm parts. So it depends on if you are looking for one go-to guitar or a variety of needs as well.
Your truth is valuable, and needed if you want to do you're very best. Who doesn't want to do their best? Your position theory has been proven as fact, no longer a opinion. I have long fingers, and I am 135 lbs, 6,1 feet tall, like a stick and I prefer my SG, over my 81 Les Paul custom, due to weight consideration, and preference for rosewood, over ebony. You sure covered a lot of ground, amazingly all the little things, hardly ever knew there was so much STUFF that you could fix yourself.On other items you confirm what I thought, always good tone, strings are so important. I use .008 set, each person must find what is best for them, it is subjective. People have tried my 81 custom Les Paul custom, and my SG standard, and could not play right, due to the light strings. Someone gave me a set of rock light gage in 1967, never use anything else, but do try all kinds, to see and hear any difference in gage, or anything else. So far, still using the same gage and brand, super slinky, by Earnie Ball.
3:12 The truss rod fix suggestions on the graph seem backwards to me. AFAIK, if the neck's looser than the strings, and therefore in a bow shape, it needs to be tightened, and the truss rod needs to be tightened, too, if the neck's tighter than the strings, and therefore in an inverted bow whape, it needs to be loosened, and the truss rod needs to be loosened, too.
You are correct. I can see how that graphic is a little misleading. I probably should have found a different one that is more straightforward! My bad. Thanks for pointing that out.
How are you getting too much spring tension that it makes bending hard? If anything not enough tension or too few springs makes it harder since the bridge will be more lively and will have less tension when bending.
I see what you are saying. I was mainly referring to the Floyd Rose trem in that instance--or any other trem that is designed to be fully floating at all times. Tightening the springs (or using more) on a Strat that is not fully floating will deck the trem, which makes it into a fixed bridge, which is easier to bend with. But, we are both correct since it depends on what type of trem it is and how it's set up. For example though, on a Floyd Rose, if you tighten up the springs too much, the bridge will suck down into the body route and it will have a ton of tension on the strings. Eventually it will bottom out and deck the trem but, you are correct that if you loosen the springs on a fully floating bridge, it will also increate the string tension since you have to tune up the strings to compensate. So i should have been more clear, thanks for your comment!
Didn't SRV also tune low, which would explain at least part of his string gauge thickness? There's an excellent string tension vs note vs thickness calculator somewhere.
Yes, he tuned down to Eb, which does make a slight difference. But since he most often used a custom set of 13s, it would still be similar to putting 12s on your Strat (or any 25.5" guitar). I mean, I can sort of bend on my acoustics, which have 12s of them but, it's not something I would love to try doing on an electric-especially seeing as how SRV was doing bends on almost every note, haha. I think over time, with the amount he played and how strong his hands were, having thicker strings probably gave him a lot more fine tuning control during bends. BUT, he also had is action really high too so, just my personal nightmare setup!
I had a guy in guitar center tell me the old SRV used 11's thing. I was like yeah, I know. I used 11's for 20 years because of that as well. Then I learned that most of my hero's used lighter strings. So I tried 8's and loved them. My vibrato was amazing. But they were a bit too loose for me while singing I was pulling chords out of tune. And I went with 9's after a while. Still great at bends and vibrato. But a little harder to pull out of tune while im not paying enough attention to my left hand.
SRV actually used a set of 13-58 most of the time. From what I understand he might start the tour with 11s or 12s, then by the end of the tour he was on 13s. Must have had wrists of titanium is all I can say! Absolutely no reasons to use strings that are thicker than you need.
String tension has nothing to do with the tremolo springs. String tension only has to do with the correct intonation of the notes. If you have a different tension on the same strings, you will have different notes. Regardless of the number and tension force of the springs.
Yes, you are correct. The problem here is with terminology so, that is my bad. What I meant there is the "resistance to bending" rather than tension. Not sure what you would call that. For example, on an Evertune bridge, the tension stays perfect to keep the string perfectly in tune at all times however, on that certain setting, you cannot bend the strings at all since it will provide equal resistance to keep the strings in tune. So this is similar to the effect you get when the springs are too tight--the strings will stay in tune better (most likely) but will be much harder to bend the strings with. Looser springs will make it easier to bend but will also send the other strings out of tune around them. There are devices to help avoid this too but, hope this clears up what my intention was. I was not clear enough! Thanks for your comment.
@@johnmccallummusic Are you trying to tell us, my dear man, that it is impossible to bend the strings on fixed bridges? I will tell you briefly - on floating bridges there is such (softer) feeling, but this feeling is deceptive. The springs react a little softer, but for the initial tuning the tension of the strings will be the same. Perhaps you just do not know what a good bend or vibrato is. 😁😁😉 I know one fan of fixed bridges (pro player) who bends and vibratos so hard, that the ball end of the string on the bridge constantly unwind, unless he solder them or makes a wraparound. He also doesn't like floating bridges and is not at all thrilled with Evertune. This ruin his technique`s. 😅😅😭
Well, it's a pretty big deal if the guitar is not adjusted properly! But you are correct that once it's done, you don't really need to worry about it that often.
Yes, the percentage is a LOT higher than you might think. I have worked on guitars from guys who were regularly gigging, good players but had no idea their action was super high and their nut was radically too high. After tweaking they were blown away. A good deal of people think they are just ready to go off the shelf--myself included for many years!
Totally agree! I have bought a few really filthy guitars at Pawn Shops over the years and even after cleaning them up, the parts wore out fast or were not fixable. Sweat is very acidic and eats away at the metal, wood, paint, etc. it will ruin the metal parts as you said and make them need to be replaced. It can even ruin frets!
Hey, if I was a doctor I would be getting paid the big bucks, not being a lowly musician on the internet! Haha, but yeah, tendonitis or arthritis in your fingers/hands, etc. are a show-stopper for anyone that plays an instrument. Thanks for clarifying that for people!
Good tip! I will have to try that sometime. My guitar necks I use live are already satin so they only get sticky when it gets super humid outside. I used to use a few guitars with nitro finished necks live and for sure those would need to be steel-wooled (or you can also use a Scotchbrite pad) if I ever use them live again.
Pappa Het would love that beta take on the strap height. Also, WTF is a tremellow? Lol.
Het’s playing style (using mostly down strokes) actually it’s easier to play fast down strokes for rhythm more accurately with the guitar hung lower also his strap height has changed over the years he doesn’t wear it as low as he did around Justice and the black album also he plays mostly rhythm so down towards the nut , the lead players that play their guitars way low always brace it on their knees when playing lead propping their feet on monitors. Play your guitar whenever it’s comfortable for you personally you’ll know if your ergonomics are wrong your body will tell you.
@ wow i was just joking around. Buzz kill much?
This video Is pure gold
Thanks man! 😎
Regarding pickup height..you are totally correct, dude. I'd be willing to bet that 90% of pickup changes could be avoided if guys just raised or lowered their existing/stock pickups. I've been guilty of it myself when I was younger. I always used to think that certain pickups were too 'boomy'..so I'd replace them instead of just adjusting down a bit.
1000% true! I had no idea this was a thing for the longest time. It makes a very large difference and some pickups are very picky about their distance from the strings. Like down to the millimeter.
I would go even further, obsessed at some point. On humbuckers adjusting the individual pole pieces.
Awesome video, John! Thanks for taking the time and keep up the good work.
Thanks, I really appreciate it!
Excellent advice and important tips all around.
Thanks! 😀
Great video and insights! 🤘🏻
Thank so much my man!
Floyd adjustments are easy. Block the trem with a stack of coins or picks so it won't pull back and wits flat. Turn the the screws on the claw a turn or 2 to make sure it won't move and do your work. Once you have your intonation/bridge height. When you are all done and tuned up loosen the claw until the picks you blocked the trem with come out. Finally and most importantly tune with the claw. Then you are all set and ready to go. Anything Floyd or recessed will work that way and save hours. You can do the same with a 6 screw but put picks between the base and the body on the top side to block it for set up. The mounting screws are weird but there is a great evh bumblebee setup video that goes over how to get the proper torque on them.
Well, having worked on a lot of people's guitars, both of the beginner level and those with way more experience that me, you might be surprised how few guitarists know how to work on their own guitars--or just choose not to. Thankfully these days, a lot more people are taking the DIY approach and learning how to do it but, I didn't want to get into Floyd setup in this video since that is a whole separate video. It's not like it's that difficult or impossible but, we are talking about people who may not even know what intonation is yet! So this tip is designed for those that may not be aware of it yet. If you already know how to or desire setting up a Floyd on your own, then this tip is already below your level if you know what I mean. But I do appreciate your comments and explaining this for those that may want to dive deeper and do it themselves. It's not hard but, it's also not that much fun either! I try not to use any of my Floyd-equipped guitars unless I have to. Haha.
@@johnmccallummusic true with people not to wanting to work on them. Th Floyd thing is the one time I have seen a "one simole tick" kind of video be accurate.
It would be great to have a non Fu tone video to send people.
@@zanzabar4ky7 thanks for the idea, I will put it on my list and will see what I can do!
And don't adjust the height of a Floyd Rose under tension or you'll damage the knife edges.
@@CyberChrist if you have a good trem (original, 1000, edge, Schaller) and the correct matching hardened or zinc posts you can do it. If you have zinc/pot metal knife edges you will dull them.
trem stabilizer is a cool addition to floyd trem
I agree! I am a fan of the Hipshot Tremsetter. I have them on several guitars. I have some other stabilizer types as well but when set up well, the Tremsetter works great!
Tre-mellow lol.
I ajust the strap height to be the same as if the guitar is sitting on my lap.
Sitting how I play the guitar most of the time. It looks a little goofy but it is comfortable to me.
Nothing wrong with that! At least it's more acceptable now. Back when I was starting out, the whole crowd would laugh at you for having it that high, which is why I had to make mine lower, then I injured my wrist!
These videos are so in depth and the quality is beautiful. Never stop making videos, this is seriously awesome ☺
THANK YOU SO MUCH! I really appreciate it KK. Some of this is inspired by conversations with you actually! So just want to help as many others as I can with things that I’ve learned over the course of 30+ years. 😎
@@johnmccallummusic that makes me so happy, I'm so glad I could inspire such an awesome and heartfelt project ☺
@@kaitthekitty ❤
Lots of good info here, man!
Glad you think so! I really appreciate it! 😎
Worth mentioning right at the top of the Intonation section that nothing you do at the bridge will solve incorrect intonation until the nut slots are properly cut. I know you did a whole section on the nut but worth reiterating because people are scared of cutting nut slots. Once a player learns how to do it, they will be doing it to all their guitars. Because intonation is probably out on at least 90% of them.
Yes, proper nut cutting files are expensive but if you have many guitars they are money well spent.
Thank you for a thoughtful and helpful video.
Yes, that is why I basically said to take it to a professional at this stage since this primarily oriented towards those in the first few years of their playing. Once you get to a certain point, you might start doing more DIY work and cutting the nut slots is easy in theory but, it's also very easy to mess them up by going too deep, which I have done way too many times! So I didn't want to suggest that in this video since it can cause someone a major headache in a hurry. But you are correct, it is money well spent once you learn how. Pretty much every guitar I've ever gotten needed it done immediately. They are basically unplayable to me until it's done!
Physical injury? Yes, A complete shoulder replacement. After surgery, playing guitar HURTS. It’s amazing just how much playing guitar can cause real damage.
Man, so sorry to hear that! I know what you mean though, my shoulder is pretty bad. Some days I can't lift my left arm above my head after I have done a gig. It may need surgery at some point too.
When you're using a tuner and there's a big swing from the target pitch, that can be a sign that the truss rod needs to be tightened. It will go sharp on the attack and flat on the sustain. The corrections are so precise they're measured in thousands of an inch. I can tell the difference between 14/1000 on my strat just by the way the high strings bend above the 9th fret.
Yeah, I'm very sensitive to it as well. The truss rod makes a huge difference and can go south on you quick. I have come to hate outdoor gigs for this reason. I always know it's going to be off after being out in the weather all day. We get a lot of gigs where it rains, then the sun comes back out so it goes from hot and dry, to cold and humid, then hot and humid in the course of an hour. Nightmare for things made of wood! Thanks for your comment!
@@johnmccallummusic the heat and humidity are terrible. There's been a tiny gap on the left side of the neck pocket of one of my guitars ever since a heat wave in the late spring. I can barely slip a playing card in the widest point but it's enough to make the low e buzz on the upstroke.
John - thank you for this excellent, informative and entertaining video. A great list of things to keep in mind, and I couldn’t agree more with all of them! This is a valuable resource for anyone who plays guitar, at any level. I especially appreciate that, for certain things, you recommend taking the guitar to a professional. That’s very helpful and will save many of us lots of angst!
Thanks man, I appreciate the feedback!
The only correct answer for strap height is "What is most comfortable", that's different from person to person. For me, that's strumming at buckle height, but with the neck angled upwards at about a 45° angle or thereabouts. It's as personal a thing as picks and string gauges where there is no one size fits all
For sure, which is what I ended that section with. I find it also greatly depends on the guitar. For example, my SG has the strap button in the base of the neck and with that one I can have it a little lower because I can easily angle the neck upwards, like you said, whereas my Strats, etc. It's impossible for me to get them at that same angle due to the strap button placement. I have thought about modding them to put it in the same spot as the SG (I have seen it done). But guys like Steve Vai for example have very long arms and long fingers so, he can get away with it much lower than someone like me!
@@johnmccallummusic Fair enough, yeah
I play low on electric and at the belly acoustic. Low had never made me sore no mattter how long i play like that. Maybe because i put the guitar down from time to time to WORKOUT
Doesn't your nut height have to do with how long your legs are?
Yes. Nut length is a contributing factor as well.
😅😅😅
ALSO THANK YOU!! 7:22 😭😭
I know right? It's a serious problem that people don't think about!
8 of those things are SUPPOSED to be sorted when the dealer takes their MARKUP for the initial 'setup' of your guitar.
I am old enough to remember that lie
It’s true they used to do these things for you when you bought a guitar. Sometimes they still do. I have a good local shop where I got my acoustic guitars that set them up well before I got them home. They also used to at least give you a new set of strings too! (This local acoustic shop gave me some nice strings with them.)
Good quality wireless guitar connectors save you breaking your neck tripping over cables.
Very true! I'm pretty clumsy and was always tripping over my cable until I started using wireless. It also makes it a lot easier to walk across the stage to rock out with or talk to the other band members.
#2, #3, #4, #6, #7, #8, and #10 are why I will pay a pro guitar tech to ensure that a proper setup is done.
Hey, nothing wrong with that! More time for playing!
Awesome video have a great day also happy last first day of October ❤😊
Thanks! You too!
My theory on how to choose the right size guitar neck: Droop your fretting hand and let your fingers and thumb be perfectly relaxed. Look at the distance between your thumb and first finger tips and that should be the ideal thickness of a guitar neck for you. Anything more or less than that means you will be using needless extra muscle energy in your hand when you are playing.
Great tip! I think the style you play and how you naturally like to place your hand on the neck are also a big factor. If you are a shredder type who likes to play with your thumb anchored in roughly the middle of the back of the neck then a thinner neck profile like the Ibanez Wizard style or asymmetric profile (like those on a Strandberg) are going to be the best choices for you. If you are like me and more prefer to wrap your thumb around the neck instead, then the thicker ones will be more comfortable. I personally think the standard Fender C profile is a perfect compromise for most people and a good starting point.
@@johnmccallummusic I can see if you are a shredder that plays fast scales and anchors your thumb in the back you might want a slimmer neck or if you are a thumb wrapper you might want something more rounded, but for an average Joe like me I think my theory makes sense. I have a Guild S-100 with a slim neck and I actually find it harder to play. I have to exert a certain amount of muscle energy just to get my fingertips to touch the strings.
Yeah, if I'm using guitars strictly for recording in the studio, I might use a thinner neck just for tracking leads and something that is the opposite for rhythm parts. So it depends on if you are looking for one go-to guitar or a variety of needs as well.
Your truth is valuable, and needed if you want to do you're very best. Who doesn't want to do their best? Your position theory has been proven as fact, no longer a opinion. I have long fingers, and I am 135 lbs, 6,1 feet tall, like a stick and I prefer my SG, over my 81 Les Paul custom, due to weight consideration, and preference for rosewood, over ebony. You sure covered a lot of ground, amazingly all the little things, hardly ever knew there was so much STUFF that you could fix yourself.On other items you confirm what I thought, always good tone, strings are so important. I use .008 set, each person must find what is best for them, it is subjective. People have tried my 81 custom Les Paul custom, and my SG standard, and could not play right, due to the light strings. Someone gave me a set of rock light gage in 1967, never use anything else, but do try all kinds, to see and hear any difference in gage, or anything else. So far, still using the same gage and brand, super slinky, by Earnie Ball.
3:12 The truss rod fix suggestions on the graph seem backwards to me. AFAIK, if the neck's looser than the strings, and therefore in a bow shape, it needs to be tightened, and the truss rod needs to be tightened, too, if the neck's tighter than the strings, and therefore in an inverted bow whape, it needs to be loosened, and the truss rod needs to be loosened, too.
You are correct. I can see how that graphic is a little misleading. I probably should have found a different one that is more straightforward! My bad. Thanks for pointing that out.
Hi! That's why I'm using the 8th fret measurement method!.. Can not get any simpler than that!.. Kiss method of Nomad..
@@johnmccallummusic No problem, Glenn Fricker made the same mistake and corrected himself ^^
How are you getting too much spring tension that it makes bending hard? If anything not enough tension or too few springs makes it harder since the bridge will be more lively and will have less tension when bending.
I see what you are saying. I was mainly referring to the Floyd Rose trem in that instance--or any other trem that is designed to be fully floating at all times. Tightening the springs (or using more) on a Strat that is not fully floating will deck the trem, which makes it into a fixed bridge, which is easier to bend with. But, we are both correct since it depends on what type of trem it is and how it's set up. For example though, on a Floyd Rose, if you tighten up the springs too much, the bridge will suck down into the body route and it will have a ton of tension on the strings. Eventually it will bottom out and deck the trem but, you are correct that if you loosen the springs on a fully floating bridge, it will also increate the string tension since you have to tune up the strings to compensate. So i should have been more clear, thanks for your comment!
Didn't SRV also tune low, which would explain at least part of his string gauge thickness?
There's an excellent string tension vs note vs thickness calculator somewhere.
Yes, he tuned down to Eb, which does make a slight difference. But since he most often used a custom set of 13s, it would still be similar to putting 12s on your Strat (or any 25.5" guitar). I mean, I can sort of bend on my acoustics, which have 12s of them but, it's not something I would love to try doing on an electric-especially seeing as how SRV was doing bends on almost every note, haha. I think over time, with the amount he played and how strong his hands were, having thicker strings probably gave him a lot more fine tuning control during bends. BUT, he also had is action really high too so, just my personal nightmare setup!
I had a guy in guitar center tell me the old SRV used 11's thing. I was like yeah, I know. I used 11's for 20 years because of that as well. Then I learned that most of my hero's used lighter strings. So I tried 8's and loved them. My vibrato was amazing. But they were a bit too loose for me while singing I was pulling chords out of tune. And I went with 9's after a while. Still great at bends and vibrato. But a little harder to pull out of tune while im not paying enough attention to my left hand.
SRV actually used a set of 13-58 most of the time. From what I understand he might start the tour with 11s or 12s, then by the end of the tour he was on 13s. Must have had wrists of titanium is all I can say! Absolutely no reasons to use strings that are thicker than you need.
SRV used 13s on the high E and a .56 on the low E. The rest of his strings were more normal light gauge. He also tuned down one half step.
@@jamesfetherston1190 Here is a good article for reference on what he used: stringjoy.com/stevie-ray-vaughans-guitar-string-gauges-3/
bonus tip! dont try to fix your amp and get electrocuted
Very true! Don't work on amps unless you know what you are doing!
String tension has nothing to do with the tremolo springs. String tension only has to do with the correct intonation of the notes.
If you have a different tension on the same strings, you will have different notes.
Regardless of the number and tension force of the springs.
Yes, you are correct. The problem here is with terminology so, that is my bad. What I meant there is the "resistance to bending" rather than tension. Not sure what you would call that. For example, on an Evertune bridge, the tension stays perfect to keep the string perfectly in tune at all times however, on that certain setting, you cannot bend the strings at all since it will provide equal resistance to keep the strings in tune. So this is similar to the effect you get when the springs are too tight--the strings will stay in tune better (most likely) but will be much harder to bend the strings with. Looser springs will make it easier to bend but will also send the other strings out of tune around them. There are devices to help avoid this too but, hope this clears up what my intention was. I was not clear enough! Thanks for your comment.
@@johnmccallummusic
Are you trying to tell us, my dear man, that it is impossible to bend the strings on fixed bridges?
I will tell you briefly - on floating bridges there is such (softer) feeling, but this feeling is deceptive. The springs react a little softer, but for the initial tuning the tension of the strings will be the same. Perhaps you just do not know what a good bend or vibrato is. 😁😁😉
I know one fan of fixed bridges (pro player) who bends and vibratos so hard, that the ball end of the string on the bridge constantly unwind, unless he solder them or makes a wraparound.
He also doesn't like floating bridges and is not at all thrilled with Evertune. This ruin his technique`s. 😅😅😭
I think people make too much of a big deal about all these adjustments. Set up once a year and maintain 💯
Well, it's a pretty big deal if the guitar is not adjusted properly! But you are correct that once it's done, you don't really need to worry about it that often.
You'd be surprised how many people just play a guitar as is from the store and don't even really know about setups.
Yes, the percentage is a LOT higher than you might think. I have worked on guitars from guys who were regularly gigging, good players but had no idea their action was super high and their nut was radically too high. After tweaking they were blown away. A good deal of people think they are just ready to go off the shelf--myself included for many years!
I like to put a dab of blue loctite on pot and out put jack nuts
Yes, also a good idea if they tend to come loose!
I’m a 9’s guy, myself. Ernie Ball Super Slinky’s all the way.
Yes, I love Ernie Ball Slinky's as well! I stockpiled them when they were still cheap, haha.
"trim-mellow"?
New word for a vibrato arm, invented by Fender
@@clemmcguinness1087 I think they were referencing the pronunciation
@@DesconectadoOaxaca ano a o ano, just having a wee bit of fun ....
# 1 guitar killer, dirt-grime/neglect.
Dirty guitars corrode, rust, break and will not adjust properly as well as feel horrible to play.
Totally agree! I have bought a few really filthy guitars at Pawn Shops over the years and even after cleaning them up, the parts wore out fast or were not fixable. Sweat is very acidic and eats away at the metal, wood, paint, etc. it will ruin the metal parts as you said and make them need to be replaced. It can even ruin frets!
There aren’t any muscles in your fingers, they’re in your forearm, but I know what you meant
Hey, if I was a doctor I would be getting paid the big bucks, not being a lowly musician on the internet! Haha, but yeah, tendonitis or arthritis in your fingers/hands, etc. are a show-stopper for anyone that plays an instrument. Thanks for clarifying that for people!
Your muscles to move your fingers are in your palm and forearm.
There are no muscles in your fingers
Chemical guys banana wax leaves your guitar top nice and slippery. I steel wool the neck
Good tip! I will have to try that sometime. My guitar necks I use live are already satin so they only get sticky when it gets super humid outside. I used to use a few guitars with nitro finished necks live and for sure those would need to be steel-wooled (or you can also use a Scotchbrite pad) if I ever use them live again.
Strap locks? It’s only :28 seconds and I’m outa here