The video was a good start, but what about accounting for tire volume differences (both tire size and rim diameter). You're going to be running a lot higher pressure in a 2.1" XC tire than you are a 2.6 trail tire, or a 3.0" plus tire. I'm currently running 27.5 x 2.6" Specialized GRID casing tires (Butcher front, Purgatory rear) on 31mm rims and I'll run anywhere from 19-22 psi in the front and 20-24 psi in the rear, depending on weather, trail type and conditions. I weigh 180 lbs and riding a Whyte T-130RS.
Lol, the legit master mechanic at my last big event (take your kids mountain biking day over 300 kids plus all the parents) Was checking tire pressure is by hand and was within one psi every time I saw someone double check him and verify it with a gauge
I discovered this too! I recently changed to 2.35 width and left the psi at 30 which was rock hard and when I brought it down to 20psi it really helped!
Yes and no. GCN actually did a bit on this with road tires. They found wider tires were faster on rough terrain because of their "suspension" properties at lower pressures. However, at the same tire pressure as the thinner tire, they lost all benefits of suspension and we're merely rolling on a bigger tire.
When comparing tire size & pressure you no longer want to compare by PSI but by tire tension. Changing the tire size means you must change your PSI to get the same tire tension. General rule of thumb bigger fatter tires can use a lower psi to get the same riding dynamics of a narrower tire with a higher psi.
I've watched numerous videos like this on tyre pressure in the three years I've been riding, initially in an attempt to avoid punctures. The concensus of experts is that harder tyres means fewer punctures, which makes sense. It also makes sense for me to have hard-ish tyres for a responsive ride, as I rarely go off road, and I'm a bit overweight. I have recently moved from an area where the cycle paths were mainly tarmac but prone to puncture hazards, to an area with lots of gritty, extremely bumpy paths, (converted from old farm tracks, industrial sites and coal waggonways). Hence, softer tyres seem a good idea, but not too soft to make pedalling difficult, pinch punctures likely, etc. What confuses me however, is the reason that every time I borrow a bike from a young person (teenage boys in our family), for my girlfriend to use, the tyres are incredibly soft. I mean, they're like putty ! 😅 Yes, these boys are lighter than me, but their tyres seem dangerously deflated, risking damage to the tyre, inner tube and rim. The boys in question regard it as 'normal' 😮. Fine, I thought. Maybe it's just a fashion, but yesterday I bought a new (reconditioned) bike from an expert, and the tyres are almost as soft as the teenage boys' ones 🤔! Can anyone explain this ? (Apart from the shop neglecting to inflate the tyres of bikes which have been on display for a while. I assume it is a choice by the expert, as all the bikes I tried were similarly underinflated).
I run 50/50 on my dirt jumper. Being new it’s all trial and error for now. I weigh 190lbs and 6ft 6in. Maybe someone can direct me a lil. 50 seems a lot though
Weight divided by 7 gives you a great starting point. Then plus or minus a psi or two. Also rear usually needs 2 more psi than the front. Im 175lbs and run 21 front 23 rear.
Funny that just got back from Halfords after they fixed my bike my tyres where at like 100 psi I looked mega Dogey letting them down in the car park at half 6 in the evening
Not a single word about tire width. Holy hell, rider weight AND tire width are the most important factors to consider. BTW 84 kg give or take, run around 26 psi front and 29 psi rear on 2.25" tubeless tires.
Rider weight and tyre size are probably the biggest factors in finding the right baseline tyre pressure (I'm surprised they weren't mentioned earlier in the video) Personally, I ride 26ers and run 2.25" to 2.35" tyres at about 25 PSI Front and 28 PSI Rear. I might go couple of PSI less in wet and/or muddy conditions for more grip (although I still run inner tubes so I don't like to go too low because of the risk of pinch flats), but for dry trails I might add a few PSI depending on the surface. Number 1 take-away rule (again should probably have been mentioned in the video) don't just blast your tyres up to whatever it is they say on the side of them, because most will probably say something like "30 to 60 PSI"
Tire casings make a bit difference too. For instance I am 163 lbs and ride a hard tail. When I run Racing Ralphs, hard pack I am running 22.5 front and 25 rear to 27 rear depending on the course and how twisty and rough. In sandy/loose 21 F and 23 Rear. However, Nobby Nicks on the same bike are 19 F, 20 R for most riding, or 17.5 front 18.5 rear for loose and rooty trails. That's a substantial difference between pressures and even with the lower pressure in the Nics, they still feel firmer, but much less pressure on a big hit and I feel the rim.
Tyre pressure will vary due to tubeless set up against tube set up and if you jump stuff with tubes and low pressure , risk of flatting. Easier with tough casing tyres to run lower pressure tho.
GDay guys, Thanks for this great video. I’m just getting back into the sport and this was really helpful - until you said the bit about “unless you are a heavier rider”. I’d class myself as that, at 110 kgs, but do you? What is heavier, and at what tyre pressures should someone at my weight start playing around at? Cheers
Hi Mike. I myself am a heavier rider at 106 kgs. I have been riding for a few months now, but I have been running around 35 + or - psi, and that has seemed to work pretty good so far.
I’m running tubeless, 27.5”, and weigh 68kg. I generally run 24psi front, 26 rear. That works for most of my riding. I generally ride enduro, and love the downhills too.
Also keep in mind temperature. Air pressure in tire will change if you inflated it in room temperature and outside is much hotter or colder. Just google "Cold inflation pressure" and go to wikipedia page, there is table with pressure and temps.
I'm a big boy - nearly 19 stone - I ride with 35 psi in the front and 40 psi at the back end! As previously mentioned I am a lump of a lad - works for me though :)
Thanks for mentioning about weight coz I am 97 kg and I also run similar pressures on my 27.5 hardtail. I find that a comfortable compromise on most tracks and it depends on the weather too. I'm running smart sams 2.2 front and rear.
I'm 240lbs, 109kg or 17 stone, on a 29er tubeless full suspension trek fuel ex 7. I run 32 psi in back and 30 or so up front. We ride a lot of rocky terrain in Colorado. With tubes, I had to go higher psi. But it also has a lot to do with riding style. Standing and steering better on downhill sections rather than bashing through them while sitting down makes a difference.
@@billc7211 I am also in Colorado (Front Range). I will take your advice into account as well since we both likely hit some of the same trails. Thanks!
So many factors in tire pressure outside of trail conditions (temperature, rim width, 27.5/29, tire width, tubeless/tubes). On 20mm inner width tubeless 29'ers, with a 2.35" tire in the front and a 2.2" in the rear, at 67 degrees fahrenheit inside I currently set up 20 psi in the front and 24.5 psi in the rear. Very happy with front pressure, still messing with rear pressure (will lower in 0.5 psi increments and see how I like). Of course as it get colder who knows...I'm likely actually running a lower pressure as it's not quite 67 degrees outside and is getting colder
Altitude actually has a huge effect on tire pressure. When doing a large >3k ft decent, tire pressure will actually be several PSI lower at the bottom of the trail than it was at the top. This can lead to pinch flats or rim damage if not careful.
Yo, I’m 155lbs and my go to number are 20 PSI front and 23 PSI in the rear. I’m running a minion DHF WT in the front and an aggressor WT in the rear. Both tires are 2.5 on 30mm ID rims. I’ve been messing with pressures on this tire combo for about 8 months and I can say that I feel like I have maximum grip and a boat load of confidence in the corners -especially the flat corners with these pressures. ✌🏻
I use 26" x 1.95" on an XC Hardtail, my weight is about 60kg and I run 45-40 for XC, 50-45 for road use and 40-35 for trails. If it is too muddy or too wet Itend to wait for the next day to dry it out
Hello ppl ... as i'm on the heavy side(125kg with kit) I thought I might share my numbers: Using Maxxis DHR2 2.4 WT front - 21 to 23 PSI, 24 if doing a lot of urban riding and stairs Using Maxxis Aggressor 2.5 WT back - 27 to 30 PSI (not going over 30 for any reason) Both tubeless and these pressure worked fine from rocky mountains were I run a bit higher pressure in the brackets to dusty hill trails were i use the lower ones in the brackets Any thoughts ?
I weigh a bit more than you (~140 kg riding) and ride at like 2x your pressure. I used to ride street with my DHF 2.5 and Aggressor 2.3 at 35-45 PSI tubeless: 35 PSI on the aggressor if I felt like being a little bouncy, but definitely 40-45 PSI on the aggressor on pavement; but between 30-35 PSI in the trails. I've had tire burping on both tires at under 30 PSI in the past, and have a full rigid plus bike that I've burped my tires at 35 PSI riding street, so now I ride over the limit. It feels really off-putting to be at
@@i.e.sergio hello...I did ride at that pressure to start with but i slowly went down and experimented. It depends a lot on the type or rim you are using if you burp or not (using the DT Swiss M1900 i30mm width rims) and using gorilla tape as tape...maybe that gives it a lot more protection against burping as the tape is right on the rim wall and the extra internal width distributes the weight differently. Also I tried normal 2.3 tyres without the WT and the sidewalls were to flimsy for my taste on the i30mm rims, that might be another factor as the WT tyres have better sidewalls in my experience.
Rim width and ensuing tire cross-sectional geometry and retention matters, but I have used various rims between 25 mm to 40 mm wide with gorilla tape and electrical tape to really make the bead hold in place. The problem has been that no sidewalls are strong enough to handle someone who rides like I do at my size at low pressure, so tires roll. I separated my shoulder last month because of my front tire rolling out from under me at its max pressure (3.5" at 30 PSI...) on a Blunt Velocity. Pressure isn't that hard a problem: it's force over a surface area vs force projected into the ground. 35 PSI is 240 kPa, or for a 3" by 5" impression (say a 2.5" 27.5" tire, sitting there) is like, 2400 Newtons, equivalent to ~240 kilos sitting there. Well, if you want an incompressible (assuming the impression is a steady-state tire that's not collapsing into itself) system, that's kind of what the pressure is able to handle: double your bodyweight. Imagine how easy it is to exert that inertia on a tire! It gives you plushness (because of compressive deflection) to have lower pressures, but you need to consider that too much compression means you're expecting the tire to hold you; I've found that isn't a reasonable expectation for me.
100 kg rekon 2.8 I ran them at 25 lbs today on a loop trail. Then 35 lbs same loop. Much faster overall with the comfortable higher pressure. The lower pressure felt like I was slower and expending more energy, but several of the trail sections were faster on the lower pressure.sandy and hardpack trail conditions. Will run 30 lbs tomorrow and I'm guessing that's the magic number
More info please. Tubeless vs tubes???? Standard size vs plus size. I have 3" tubeless and can't find any info. I currently run 30 rear and 20 front. I weigh 210. I started much lower, but was working way to hard. We need much more info. Thanks!
KL That sounds pretty high for 3 inch wide tubeless tires I weigh 200 pounds I run a 2.8 27.5 and I run it around 19 at the front and 23 at the rear I also have a lot of Sugar Sand in South Florida though
yeah tested this today was around 26psi and went down to 22 as I am a light guy (160lbs). It felt a bit mushy but never felt like I was loosing anything except for some speed...think 24 will be my sweet spot. Friend is big he runs 28
Wow!!! I ride an almost identical set up to yours (tyres and pressure) only with a DHR rear too and a full sus. Only I weigh 100kg. I reduced both tyres by about 3psi the other day as it was so wet and sloppy and it helped loads. Increase both by about 5psi for jumping though. I
I'm about 230-240lb, running tubeless 2.3 rear 2.4 front I use 27psi rear 24psi front. I ride some sharp granite rock gardens and haven't hit a rim yet. Tyre choice and setup is crucial. I'll never use tubes again.
Lower pressures give more rolling resistance so it makes climbing more difficult. If you climb a lot on your rides you might want to bump up the pressures.
Actually not true at all, lower pressure gives more grip because the tire conforms more to the terrain it's rolling over. Too low pressure will end p slowing You down, but lower end tire pressure might actually help You out on technical climbs where grip is paramount. Rolling resistance is mainly dictated by the tire itself and the casing inside it (if the tire is inflated in the reasonable pressure range).
I ride a lot of slat & rocky trails but found running low P.S.I in my tyres was not good. I ripped the side wall out of 2 rear tyres on the same single track with 26 P.S.I to get the grip so i now run a vitoria airliner in the rear & run anything from 26 P.S.I to 30 P.S.I in the rear depending on the trail i am riding. in the front i stay with 28 P.S.I & as I am 100 KG with all my kit on it works for me.
riding style, tire compound, tread compound,, weather, etc are all fantastic points! But I do think it misses out one of the most important if not THE single most important variable.... weight of the rider. ALL ELSE REMAINS EQUAL, a 120lb rider should not be riding same pressure as someone 240lb. There's simply less force compressing down on the tires (Force = Mass X Acceleration) For reference, I am 134lb (61ish kg), I run 19psi front, 21 psi rear on 2.35 Maxxis minions DHF and DHRII. I drop down to 17.5/19.5 during wet/winters snow rides or raise it to 21/23 for ROCKY trails but my grip does become significantly worst. Hope this helps!
I weigh 155lbs and on a Salsa Deadwood (120mm travel front/91mm travel rear) I am running 29x 2.5 Minion DHF front at 17psi and Aggressor 29x2.4 rear at 17 psi (both tubeless on 35mm ID rims) and I really like it. I experimented with going higher (up to about 25 psi) but I felt like I was bouncing off roots and rocks more. This seems to be my sweet spot.
I weigh 190 lbs with a riding pack and run 24 psi in my front tire and 26 psi in the rear. This is a tubeless setup on dry trails with 2.4 Bontrager XR4's installed on Bontrager line comp 30 wheels (29mm internal). Hope this helps!
I Ride a 2022 Dartmoor Primal Pro 27.5 Hardtail. Assegai Exo+ 2.6 1.5 bar in the Front, and Aggressor 2.5 Exo 1.8 bar in the Rear. I weigh 85 kg and I'm 183 cm tall.
1) Load carry capacity of a tyre is a function of the enclosed air volume and the air pressure. Given the same vertical load, everything that increases the air volume (tyre diameter, width, etc..) will allow you to drop the air pressure and vice versa. 2) Honestly I don't see much added value* in stating tyre pressures - at best it is saving you a few runs, which would have been experience, to converge to your own tyre pressure - since there are too many influences to really carry-over like - the already mentioned enclosed air volume (covering width, diameter, ...) and vertical load which is not only rider weight but also the weight distribution you have in various conditions; tyre size & weight are regularly mentioned but weight distribution in particular in dynamic situations without running telemetry...? - the terrain you ride in, the conditions / intention, your riding style (& potentially the pedals you ride) - the construction of the tyre itself (apex or no apex, number of plies, ...) and usage of any kind of inserts --> as the key message (in my opinion) of the video states, you have to find that tyre pressure for yourself. That the gauge on your pump is wrong, as the one at the fuel station, etc... is likely correct but mostly a problem for transferring the pressures to somebody else or when checking with different equipment. As long as you always using the same pressure gauge, it does not matter that much since the error is typically rather constant and not all over the place. If you prefer to use a compressor at home and a hand pump at trail side, get a separate gauge for checking / adjusting. * the tyre pressure of your friends can be interesting for locations where they have been and you not, when have a solid common reference together to compare against... If everybody is increasing by X, it is highly unlikely that you get away with less or the same as usual.
I ride city streets and some Greenway around it.. I run a hard 55psi on the rear and a fatter front much softer (it's had a slow leak for a year so I don't worry until I have to being I ride a rigid frame and fork my seat has the spring! Takes some of the shock on the front and keeps from pinching tires on curbs in the back
Even though you are technically right about tire volume, its correlation with optimal tire pressure is more coincidental than mechanistic.. The true determining factor is contact patch size (which is itself correlated to the volume, hence the correlation you're stating, even the volume itself does not do much).
I’m 73 kg. All bikes are 29ers. Pump a Topeak joe blow sport. All rims bar xc are 26mm internal. Xc rims 21 ID. A digital pressure gauge reads about 6psi lower than the joe blow sport. On xc hard tail with bontrager xr2 2.2 120tpi xc tyres 22F/28R. On trail single speed with 2.3 exo minions. 23F/27R. 26mm rims. On trail single speed with rigid fork and schwalbe snakeskins in winter filth (2.35F/2.2R), 18F/25R. On full sus with 2.3 minion DD, 21F/25R.
I'm 220lbs and ride trails at 28psi to 30psi. But, when I go to the jump track I'm running 35psi to 40psi. I want that tire sturdy as I'm going up the jump face
So got a new Calibre triple B... went to FoD. Added tyre pressure. From reading the tyre case I said 20-65 PSI. So I pumped up my tube to 60PSI. Recently had a big crash on my local trail. No wonder I’ve had to grip. Whoops
I've just starting riding again after a brief 20 year period. I got pneumonia this year- twice. So decided that I wasn't going to let it win and bought a nice bike. I'm 84 kg (185lbs) and dropping rapidly thanks to the intense exercise. I also collect mossy rocks and things for the garden and can be 10-15kg (22-33lbs) heavier on the way back through the bush. Doesn't such a low pressure bleed off lots of speed? I'm so confused about what pressure to have!
So what if you have a MTB that use purely for commuting to and from work. I want speed rather than grip. 35 feels ridiculously spongey and slow and yet the 60 psi limit on my Maxxis Icon tires is giving me punctures constantly.. any advice? They're 2.2s and I weigh 87kg
Damn, I ride super high pressures. I like 45 rear 40 front minimum. Consider I ride 26x1.95 tyres with an XC / gravel thread pattern and the dirt on my trails is quite compact and dry.
Ha. When you think about the number of subscribers ratio to the number of views, this channel has plenty of room to improve. Check out the little Aussie bloke Greg Barling. He's got around 35k subscribers and regularly punches way above his weight. He hand builds dirt jumps - very pro. Just saying...
The bike is solid and my Ebike conversion went great. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Very smooth ride at 30mph with no problems (135 miles ridden so far). The picture is a bit deceiving - there is WAY less space in the center of the frame than it shows. The suspension connection takes up the entire thing. So I needed to attach my battery on the bottom of the frame and my controller on the top. Instructions for assembly were lacking but honestly it wasn't too hard to figure out even though I have very little bike knowledge. Watched some youtube videos on adjusting the disk brakes but that was it. Still, I am loving it and very happy with the purchase.
In inflatable white water rafts we found that the smaller tubes would take more pressure like 53psi 250mm round tubes before blowing up 27psi 900mm round tubes before blowing up These where experiments just to see when they would pop. The tubes where ran in the river at 5psi for 90mm and 10 for 250mm. We used a compressor to blow up Road bike tyre generally are run at 50psi being that skinny?? So is to different for fatter mrbikes tyres. Like for big fatter tyres My first mtbike tyres I could run at 40 psi the 2.8 on this bike is a real effort to get anywhere near that I run them at 24 for front 28 for back. I’m a light weight. So it looks like my experiments is in the ball park. One less thing to worry about Just questions? I think I’ve answered some
in my tyre written that "inflate to min .35psi to max .65psi". how much should i keep? my weight is 86kg and I run a hybrid bike for daily commuting on road. thanks
Can I use 2.6 tyres into my 25mm inner diameter rim? As everytime I purchased a tyres they're always narrower compared to the original manufacture size! 2.40 always came 2.3 and it is so disappointing
My XC bike has a tyre pressure of 80 psi and I'm still not satisfied. I mostly ride on roads and pavements. I feel like I'm getting less resistance with more psi. I weigh 80kg. I'm I doing it wrong?
On a hardtail it is very important to go tubeless at least in the back if you want grip and reliability, with tubes you don't get that. (I ride on rocky terrain and very often get pinch flats in the rear even with 30 psi)
Rapid robs I was running 30/35 psi front to rear all year round they felt great for speed and grip I’m currently running dhf/r2 and running 30/30 psi and the grip advantage is amazing I didn’t think it would make much of a difference but it does hope this helps out a newbie somewhere in the mountain bike world 👍🏻🤘🏻
thanx for vid.. one thing though ur numbers are def lil off as far as lotta diff trails and ones by me some i ride 29'" 2.6" tires front air pressure 14 rear 17 and when i run 20 or more i wash out in the turns i only weigh 120 and i have even run 10r and 8f just sayin for avg person 20-25 is fine but not for everyone and every trail..
I'm 250lbs and found I really need a bit more air for climbing efficiency. Went up a bit more than I thought I'd need (around 30) but climbing is much easier and cornering is still good. Had to find the sweet spot between that.
What range of tire are you calling a mtn bike tire. I realize that psi change is not so dramatic as going from a 22 to a 25 road tire, but this general rule has to have a range? I think a bit like GCN did on weight and tire would be good. Do you change psi on the rear tire differently if it is a hard tail?
I'm a bigger guy.. 6'3" and 265lbs /120kg.. I go about 25/30 psi f/r with my nobby nics atm.. not sure need to try these tips I may need to go up a bit perhaps given my size and all. riding a Anthem X29er currently.
Do you know your "Go To" Tyre Pressures?
About 15 front and about 18 back, depending on conditions
Global Mountain Bike Network 23 psi at back and 20 at the front
The video was a good start, but what about accounting for tire volume differences (both tire size and rim diameter). You're going to be running a lot higher pressure in a 2.1" XC tire than you are a 2.6 trail tire, or a 3.0" plus tire.
I'm currently running 27.5 x 2.6" Specialized GRID casing tires (Butcher front, Purgatory rear) on 31mm rims and I'll run anywhere from 19-22 psi in the front and 20-24 psi in the rear, depending on weather, trail type and conditions. I weigh 180 lbs and riding a Whyte T-130RS.
i run 20 psi front and rear
Harvey Watt do you run tubeless or not?
Who always checks his pressure by hand ?
Lol, the legit master mechanic at my last big event (take your kids mountain biking day over 300 kids plus all the parents) Was checking tire pressure is by hand and was within one psi every time I saw someone double check him and verify it with a gauge
liquidwombat that’s crazy!
Squeeze test always best, ha
Used to, thought id never stop but then i won a Fabric gauge from GMBN, so now i use that.
I do. Haha
Why nobody mentiones the difference between wide and thin tires? Cause there's a difference between 2.2 vs 2.6 at 25 psi for example...
Yeh I run 2.8 and 20psi is pretty hard
I discovered this too! I recently changed to 2.35 width and left the psi at 30 which was rock hard and when I brought it down to 20psi it really helped!
Yes and no. GCN actually did a bit on this with road tires. They found wider tires were faster on rough terrain because of their "suspension" properties at lower pressures. However, at the same tire pressure as the thinner tire, they lost all benefits of suspension and we're merely rolling on a bigger tire.
When comparing tire size & pressure you no longer want to compare by PSI but by tire tension. Changing the tire size means you must change your PSI to get the same tire tension. General rule of thumb bigger fatter tires can use a lower psi to get the same riding dynamics of a narrower tire with a higher psi.
Also thin rims needs higher tire pressure for same tire to not flex to much when cornering...
Sometimes I run 0 PSI, I've got insane grip
facts everyone doesnt know this secret trick that would benefit everyone
Yeah because I really love riding around on flat tires. But hey who am I to tell someone else how to ride a bicycle.
I've watched numerous videos like this on tyre pressure in the three years I've been riding, initially in an attempt to avoid punctures. The concensus of experts is that harder tyres means fewer punctures, which makes sense. It also makes sense for me to have hard-ish tyres for a responsive ride, as I rarely go off road, and I'm a bit overweight. I have recently moved from an area where the cycle paths were mainly tarmac but prone to puncture hazards, to an area with lots of gritty, extremely bumpy paths, (converted from old farm tracks, industrial sites and coal waggonways). Hence, softer tyres seem a good idea, but not too soft to make pedalling difficult, pinch punctures likely, etc. What confuses me however, is the reason that every time I borrow a bike from a young person (teenage boys in our family), for my girlfriend to use, the tyres are incredibly soft. I mean, they're like putty ! 😅 Yes, these boys are lighter than me, but their tyres seem dangerously deflated, risking damage to the tyre, inner tube and rim. The boys in question regard it as 'normal' 😮. Fine, I thought. Maybe it's just a fashion, but yesterday I bought a new (reconditioned) bike from an expert, and the tyres are almost as soft as the teenage boys' ones 🤔! Can anyone explain this ? (Apart from the shop neglecting to inflate the tyres of bikes which have been on display for a while. I assume it is a choice by the expert, as all the bikes I tried were similarly underinflated).
i usually go for 50 psi/ 4 bar because i commute over asphalt and dont want rolling resistance
I'm glad that I'm not the only one, got a little bit scared when I heard from 20 to 25 psi since I usually ride from 50 to 55. 😱😂
I ride almost with 40 psi on the rear and over 30 on the front, not tubeless
I do between 35 and 40 PSI. It seems like in mountain biking, people try to run the lowest possible pressure.
I run 50/50 on my dirt jumper. Being new it’s all trial and error for now. I weigh 190lbs and 6ft 6in. Maybe someone can direct me a lil. 50 seems a lot though
Sometimes I run 0 PSI, the grip is insane!
Good guide Martyn!
Lol
How much do you weigh doddy? You look about the same size as I am, and I am running 30 in both my front and rear.
Can you do this with e-bikes
I hope it's the same person responsible for both UA-cam accounts. :D Mirror high-fiving like a champion! :D
Weight divided by 7 gives you a great starting point. Then plus or minus a psi or two. Also rear usually needs 2 more psi than the front. Im 175lbs and run 21 front 23 rear.
Had to convert all to metric. Formula still works.
I’m 120lbs
@@hermask815 How does it work in metric? 90 kg / 7 is 12,5 atmosphere, little too much?
Snap.
Turns out the pressure I've been running fits your formula.
Thanks for the knowledge.
@@NecumNaTo hahahha I wanna see a tyre pumped to 12.5 atm :D
Funny that just got back from Halfords after they fixed my bike my tyres where at like 100 psi
I looked mega Dogey letting them down in the car park at half 6 in the evening
What type tyres though?
Not a single word about tire width. Holy hell, rider weight AND tire width are the most important factors to consider. BTW 84 kg give or take, run around 26 psi front and 29 psi rear on 2.25" tubeless tires.
Souhlas
I tried lowering my tyre pressure incrementally and now have a dented rim. 26” wheels, HT, 170lbs, 40 psi.
I run tire inserts so that I can actually push my hardtail
Rider weight and tyre size are probably the biggest factors in finding the right baseline tyre pressure (I'm surprised they weren't mentioned earlier in the video)
Personally, I ride 26ers and run 2.25" to 2.35" tyres at about 25 PSI Front and 28 PSI Rear. I might go couple of PSI less in wet and/or muddy conditions for more grip (although I still run inner tubes so I don't like to go too low because of the risk of pinch flats), but for dry trails I might add a few PSI depending on the surface.
Number 1 take-away rule (again should probably have been mentioned in the video) don't just blast your tyres up to whatever it is they say on the side of them, because most will probably say something like "30 to 60 PSI"
Tire casings make a bit difference too. For instance I am 163 lbs and ride a hard tail. When I run Racing Ralphs, hard pack I am running 22.5 front and 25 rear to 27 rear depending on the course and how twisty and rough. In sandy/loose 21 F and 23 Rear. However, Nobby Nicks on the same bike are 19 F, 20 R for most riding, or 17.5 front 18.5 rear for loose and rooty trails. That's a substantial difference between pressures and even with the lower pressure in the Nics, they still feel firmer, but much less pressure on a big hit and I feel the rim.
Tyre pressure will vary due to tubeless set up against tube set up and if you jump stuff with tubes and low pressure , risk of flatting. Easier with tough casing tyres to run lower pressure tho.
Mine is 27.5 with 29psi front and 30psi rear its the perfect pressure
Zoomin
GDay guys,
Thanks for this great video. I’m just getting back into the sport and this was really helpful - until you said the bit about “unless you are a heavier rider”. I’d class myself as that, at 110 kgs, but do you? What is heavier, and at what tyre pressures should someone at my weight start playing around at?
Cheers
Hi Mike. I myself am a heavier rider at 106 kgs. I have been riding for a few months now, but I have been running around 35 + or - psi, and that has seemed to work pretty good so far.
I’m running tubeless, 27.5”, and weigh 68kg. I generally run 24psi front, 26 rear. That works for most of my riding. I generally ride enduro, and love the downhills too.
Daniel probably the best all around setting point for me. 2.5s front and rear
Also keep in mind temperature. Air pressure in tire will change if you inflated it in room temperature and outside is much hotter or colder. Just google "Cold inflation pressure" and go to wikipedia page, there is table with pressure and temps.
The answer is 42.
For my weight that number of psi is pretty matching.
Tee hee! Hitch Hikers Guide to the Galaxy reference for all those younger than 40 that missed it!
I'm a big boy - nearly 19 stone - I ride with 35 psi in the front and 40 psi at the back end! As previously mentioned I am a lump of a lad - works for me though :)
dan parry I am a hair under 18 stone and really appreciate you weighing in on this (see what I did there?) from a big guy's perspective. Thanks!
Thanks for mentioning about weight coz I am 97 kg and I also run similar pressures on my 27.5 hardtail. I find that a comfortable compromise on most tracks and it depends on the weather too. I'm running smart sams 2.2 front and rear.
I'm 240lbs, 109kg or 17 stone, on a 29er tubeless full suspension trek fuel ex 7. I run 32 psi in back and 30 or so up front. We ride a lot of rocky terrain in Colorado. With tubes, I had to go higher psi. But it also has a lot to do with riding style. Standing and steering better on downhill sections rather than bashing through them while sitting down makes a difference.
@@billc7211 I am also in Colorado (Front Range). I will take your advice into account as well since we both likely hit some of the same trails. Thanks!
130kg, and I _never_ run less than 35 on my 26er. 40-ish is my sweet spot, feels rock hard to the hand but squishes just right when I'm riding.
So many factors in tire pressure outside of trail conditions (temperature, rim width, 27.5/29, tire width, tubeless/tubes). On 20mm inner width tubeless 29'ers, with a 2.35" tire in the front and a 2.2" in the rear, at 67 degrees fahrenheit inside I currently set up 20 psi in the front and 24.5 psi in the rear. Very happy with front pressure, still messing with rear pressure (will lower in 0.5 psi increments and see how I like). Of course as it get colder who knows...I'm likely actually running a lower pressure as it's not quite 67 degrees outside and is getting colder
Altitude actually has a huge effect on tire pressure. When doing a large >3k ft decent, tire pressure will actually be several PSI lower at the bottom of the trail than it was at the top. This can lead to pinch flats or rim damage if not careful.
I like 24 rear and 22 front! Tubeless Maxxis DHF's.
NorCal Trail Rides how much do you weigh?
Tank you for also showing the pressure in Bar:D
20 psi front, 24 rear, . 2.4 tires on trail bike :)
Yo, I’m 155lbs and my go to number are 20 PSI front and 23 PSI in the rear. I’m running a minion DHF WT in the front and an aggressor WT in the rear. Both tires are 2.5 on 30mm ID rims. I’ve been messing with pressures on this tire combo for about 8 months and I can say that I feel like I have maximum grip and a boat load of confidence in the corners -especially the flat corners with these pressures. ✌🏻
Im running 26" x 2.0 Maxxis Ranchero, no tubeless, my weight is 70 kg, my all terrain pressures are 35 psi front - 40 psi back. I generally ride XC
I use 26" x 1.95" on an XC Hardtail, my weight is about 60kg and I run 45-40 for XC, 50-45 for road use and 40-35 for trails. If it is too muddy or too wet Itend to wait for the next day to dry it out
Hello ppl ... as i'm on the heavy side(125kg with kit) I thought I might share my numbers:
Using Maxxis DHR2 2.4 WT front - 21 to 23 PSI, 24 if doing a lot of urban riding and stairs
Using Maxxis Aggressor 2.5 WT back - 27 to 30 PSI (not going over 30 for any reason)
Both tubeless and these pressure worked fine from rocky mountains were I run a bit higher pressure in the brackets to dusty hill trails were i use the lower ones in the brackets
Any thoughts ?
I weigh a bit more than you (~140 kg riding) and ride at like 2x your pressure. I used to ride street with my DHF 2.5 and Aggressor 2.3 at 35-45 PSI tubeless: 35 PSI on the aggressor if I felt like being a little bouncy, but definitely 40-45 PSI on the aggressor on pavement; but between 30-35 PSI in the trails. I've had tire burping on both tires at under 30 PSI in the past, and have a full rigid plus bike that I've burped my tires at 35 PSI riding street, so now I ride over the limit. It feels really off-putting to be at
@@i.e.sergio hello...I did ride at that pressure to start with but i slowly went down and experimented.
It depends a lot on the type or rim you are using if you burp or not (using the DT Swiss M1900 i30mm width rims) and using gorilla tape as tape...maybe that gives it a lot more protection against burping as the tape is right on the rim wall and the extra internal width distributes the weight differently.
Also I tried normal 2.3 tyres without the WT and the sidewalls were to flimsy for my taste on the i30mm rims, that might be another factor as the WT tyres have better sidewalls in my experience.
Gabor Adrian Leitner any reason why are you going wider on the rear?
Rim width and ensuing tire cross-sectional geometry and retention matters, but I have used various rims between 25 mm to 40 mm wide with gorilla tape and electrical tape to really make the bead hold in place. The problem has been that no sidewalls are strong enough to handle someone who rides like I do at my size at low pressure, so tires roll. I separated my shoulder last month because of my front tire rolling out from under me at its max pressure (3.5" at 30 PSI...) on a Blunt Velocity.
Pressure isn't that hard a problem: it's force over a surface area vs force projected into the ground. 35 PSI is 240 kPa, or for a 3" by 5" impression (say a 2.5" 27.5" tire, sitting there) is like, 2400 Newtons, equivalent to ~240 kilos sitting there. Well, if you want an incompressible (assuming the impression is a steady-state tire that's not collapsing into itself) system, that's kind of what the pressure is able to handle: double your bodyweight. Imagine how easy it is to exert that inertia on a tire! It gives you plushness (because of compressive deflection) to have lower pressures, but you need to consider that too much compression means you're expecting the tire to hold you; I've found that isn't a reasonable expectation for me.
@@i.e.sergio very nice explanation....thank you
100 kg rekon 2.8 I ran them at 25 lbs today on a loop trail. Then 35 lbs same loop. Much faster overall with the comfortable higher pressure. The lower pressure felt like I was slower and expending more energy, but several of the trail sections were faster on the lower pressure.sandy and hardpack trail conditions. Will run 30 lbs tomorrow and I'm guessing that's the magic number
More info please. Tubeless vs tubes???? Standard size vs plus size. I have 3" tubeless and can't find any info. I currently run 30 rear and 20 front. I weigh 210. I started much lower, but was working way to hard. We need much more info. Thanks!
KL That sounds pretty high for 3 inch wide tubeless tires I weigh 200 pounds I run a 2.8 27.5 and I run it around 19 at the front and 23 at the rear I also have a lot of Sugar Sand in South Florida though
I'm in MN. Hard pack mostly
Should I go with a higher PSI if I'm running innertubes?
nathaniel byrd my personal understanding is yes you have to run at least 10 psi higher 😢
Purple Turtle so I need to run between 28-30 PSI with tubes?
yeah tested this today was around 26psi and went down to 22 as I am a light guy (160lbs). It felt a bit mushy but never felt like I was loosing anything except for some speed...think 24 will be my sweet spot. Friend is big he runs 28
Thank i have not got much of a clue
25psi front 30psi rear I wheigh 55kg tubeless set up, 27.5
Minion dhf 2.35 front agressor 2.3 in rear, on a hardtail
Wow!!! I ride an almost identical set up to yours (tyres and pressure) only with a DHR rear too and a full sus. Only I weigh 100kg. I reduced both tyres by about 3psi the other day as it was so wet and sloppy and it helped loads. Increase both by about 5psi for jumping though.
I
Damn I’ve been putting 45psi in mine!
My tyres literally say 40-65 psi on them
That’s why plus tires came out for. But downside for plus tires are a drag.
I'm 6"6" and 240 pounds and ride hard tail... can't seem to go below 40 psi otherwise it feels like I'm hitting the rim on every bump.
yep, im only 200lbs and feels the same under 25psi.
Go tubeless man. I'm 286 pounds and used 40psi when on tubes. Now on tubeless I use between 25 and 28 psi.
Need thicker casing tires
me i’m just 120 pounds so that’s ok
I'm about 230-240lb, running tubeless 2.3 rear 2.4 front I use 27psi rear 24psi front. I ride some sharp granite rock gardens and haven't hit a rim yet. Tyre choice and setup is crucial. I'll never use tubes again.
Lower pressures give more rolling resistance so it makes climbing more difficult. If you climb a lot on your rides you might want to bump up the pressures.
Actually not true at all, lower pressure gives more grip because the tire conforms more to the terrain it's rolling over. Too low pressure will end p slowing You down, but lower end tire pressure might actually help You out on technical climbs where grip is paramount. Rolling resistance is mainly dictated by the tire itself and the casing inside it (if the tire is inflated in the reasonable pressure range).
17psi front and 18 rear works for me with my + sized 27.5 /3inch tyres on my Specialized Fuse hardtail 🤘🏼
Hammer
13/14 same ride
I ride a lot of slat & rocky trails but found running low P.S.I in my tyres was not good. I ripped the side wall out of 2 rear tyres on the same single track with 26 P.S.I to get the grip so i now run a vitoria airliner in the rear & run anything from 26 P.S.I to 30 P.S.I in the rear depending on the trail i am riding. in the front i stay with 28 P.S.I & as I am 100 KG with all my kit on it works for me.
riding style, tire compound, tread compound,, weather, etc are all fantastic points! But I do think it misses out one of the most important if not THE single most important variable.... weight of the rider.
ALL ELSE REMAINS EQUAL, a 120lb rider should not be riding same pressure as someone 240lb. There's simply less force compressing down on the tires (Force = Mass X Acceleration)
For reference, I am 134lb (61ish kg), I run 19psi front, 21 psi rear on 2.35 Maxxis minions DHF and DHRII. I drop down to 17.5/19.5 during wet/winters snow rides or raise it to 21/23 for ROCKY trails but my grip does become significantly worst. Hope this helps!
I weigh 225 what would you change those numbers to for my weight?
your weight divide by 7 = tire pressure
If you run tubeless that is a great start
Great info.
Question? Does width or tire volume dictate correct psi as well?
24-21 in the front, anything lower than 25 in the back and i start dinging rims but it rides sweet so at the rear I go 26-25
One word: Lagom
I generally run 24 psi back, and 22 front.
Heavy rider here... I find that 30 psi in my minions works for me, any lower and the tyres feel too flat and unstable. Both are tubeless
sooo on a 29er, do u need the same pressure? im running 30 psi and im 104kg myself, if I run 25 psi my tires get way too juicy
26 in rear........23 in front. I'm going to try 25R 22F. About 210 Lbs loaded up. Thanks for the info.
I weigh 155lbs and on a Salsa Deadwood (120mm travel front/91mm travel rear) I am running 29x 2.5 Minion DHF front at 17psi and Aggressor 29x2.4 rear at 17 psi (both tubeless on 35mm ID rims) and I really like it. I experimented with going higher (up to about 25 psi) but I felt like I was bouncing off roots and rocks more. This seems to be my sweet spot.
I weigh 190 lbs with a riding pack and run 24 psi in my front tire and 26 psi in the rear. This is a tubeless setup on dry trails with 2.4 Bontrager XR4's installed on Bontrager line comp 30 wheels (29mm internal). Hope this helps!
Personal, i drive 3 in the Front, 3,2 in the rear on dry Asphalt.(bar) maxxis aggresor and minion on front😅
I Ride a 2022 Dartmoor Primal Pro 27.5 Hardtail. Assegai Exo+ 2.6 1.5 bar in the Front, and Aggressor 2.5 Exo 1.8 bar in the Rear. I weigh 85 kg and I'm 183 cm tall.
1) Load carry capacity of a tyre is a function of the enclosed air volume and the air pressure. Given the same vertical load, everything that increases the air volume (tyre diameter, width, etc..) will allow you to drop the air pressure and vice versa.
2) Honestly I don't see much added value* in stating tyre pressures - at best it is saving you a few runs, which would have been experience, to converge to your own tyre pressure - since there are too many influences to really carry-over like
- the already mentioned enclosed air volume (covering width, diameter, ...) and vertical load which is not only rider weight but also the weight distribution you have in various conditions; tyre size & weight are regularly mentioned but weight distribution in particular in dynamic situations without running telemetry...?
- the terrain you ride in, the conditions / intention, your riding style (& potentially the pedals you ride)
- the construction of the tyre itself (apex or no apex, number of plies, ...) and usage of any kind of inserts
--> as the key message (in my opinion) of the video states, you have to find that tyre pressure for yourself.
That the gauge on your pump is wrong, as the one at the fuel station, etc... is likely correct but mostly a problem for transferring the pressures to somebody else or when checking with different equipment. As long as you always using the same pressure gauge, it does not matter that much since the error is typically rather constant and not all over the place.
If you prefer to use a compressor at home and a hand pump at trail side, get a separate gauge for checking / adjusting.
* the tyre pressure of your friends can be interesting for locations where they have been and you not, when have a solid common reference together to compare against... If everybody is increasing by X, it is highly unlikely that you get away with less or the same as usual.
I ride city streets and some Greenway around it.. I run a hard 55psi on the rear and a fatter front much softer (it's had a slow leak for a year so I don't worry until I have to being I ride a rigid frame and fork my seat has the spring! Takes some of the shock on the front and keeps from pinching tires on curbs in the back
Even though you are technically right about tire volume, its correlation with optimal tire pressure is more coincidental than mechanistic.. The true determining factor is contact patch size (which is itself correlated to the volume, hence the correlation you're stating, even the volume itself does not do much).
23 rear, 20 up front at @ 175 lbs riding wieght, DHRII 29×2.4 , and Assegai 29×2.6
on my 2021 Scott Ransom 920
I’m 73 kg. All bikes are 29ers. Pump a Topeak joe blow sport. All rims bar xc are 26mm internal. Xc rims 21 ID. A digital pressure gauge reads about 6psi lower than the joe blow sport.
On xc hard tail with bontrager xr2 2.2 120tpi xc tyres 22F/28R.
On trail single speed with 2.3 exo minions. 23F/27R. 26mm rims.
On trail single speed with rigid fork and schwalbe snakeskins in winter filth (2.35F/2.2R), 18F/25R.
On full sus with 2.3 minion DD, 21F/25R.
I love slight trail.My tyre is Maxxis 29"x2.25 and indicates 60psi, should i ignore it or just follow the tyre psi required...pls educate me. Thanks
I'm 220lbs and ride trails at 28psi to 30psi. But, when I go to the jump track I'm running 35psi to 40psi. I want that tire sturdy as I'm going up the jump face
60 psi any llower any its a bitch harder to ride.thinking of buying 26x2.8" minions bout 45-50 psi
So got a new Calibre triple B... went to FoD. Added tyre pressure. From reading the tyre case I said 20-65 PSI. So I pumped up my tube to 60PSI. Recently had a big crash on my local trail. No wonder I’ve had to grip. Whoops
Shouldnt rider weight count? I mean tyre psi for a 150lbs rider should differ for a 200lbs rider
I'm 11 stone and run maxxis tyres front 22psi rear 28psi if I go and ride somewhere rocky I'll go 25psi front 30psi rear
🤔28psi up front and 30psi at back, what psi would you say would give more efficiency for road use🤔
I've just starting riding again after a brief 20 year period. I got pneumonia this year- twice. So decided that I wasn't going to let it win and bought a nice bike.
I'm 84 kg (185lbs) and dropping rapidly thanks to the intense exercise. I also collect mossy rocks and things for the garden and can be 10-15kg (22-33lbs) heavier on the way back through the bush.
Doesn't such a low pressure bleed off lots of speed? I'm so confused about what pressure to have!
70kg rider on 26x4.4. I usually ride with 300 grams up front and 450 grams in the rear tire for dry conditions. In the wet, 200/300 or lower.
So what if you have a MTB that use purely for commuting to and from work. I want speed rather than grip. 35 feels ridiculously spongey and slow and yet the 60 psi limit on my Maxxis Icon tires is giving me punctures constantly.. any advice? They're 2.2s and I weigh 87kg
Damn, I ride super high pressures. I like 45 rear 40 front minimum. Consider I ride 26x1.95 tyres with an XC / gravel thread pattern and the dirt on my trails is quite compact and dry.
Ha. When you think about the number of subscribers ratio to the number of views, this channel has plenty of room to improve. Check out the little Aussie bloke Greg Barling. He's got around 35k subscribers and regularly punches way above his weight. He hand builds dirt jumps - very pro. Just saying...
The bike is solid and my Ebike conversion went great. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Very smooth ride at 30mph with no problems (135 miles ridden so far). The picture is a bit deceiving - there is WAY less space in the center of the frame than it shows. The suspension connection takes up the entire thing. So I needed to attach my battery on the bottom of the frame and my controller on the top. Instructions for assembly were lacking but honestly it wasn't too hard to figure out even though I have very little bike knowledge. Watched some youtube videos on adjusting the disk brakes but that was it. Still, I am loving it and very happy with the purchase.
I have 2.5 in wide maxxis minion dhf with a max pressure of 65psi and I way 160lbs. What psi should I run? I do mostly dry rocky runs.
In inflatable white water rafts we found that the smaller tubes would take more pressure like 53psi 250mm round tubes before blowing up
27psi 900mm round tubes before blowing up
These where experiments just to see when they would pop. The tubes where ran in the river at 5psi for 90mm and 10 for 250mm. We used a compressor to blow up
Road bike tyre generally are run at 50psi being that skinny??
So is to different for fatter mrbikes tyres. Like for big fatter tyres
My first mtbike tyres I could run at 40 psi the 2.8 on this bike is a real effort to get anywhere near that
I run them at 24 for front 28 for back. I’m a light weight. So it looks like my experiments is in the ball park. One less thing to worry about
Just questions?
I think I’ve answered some
in my tyre written that "inflate to min .35psi to max .65psi". how much should i keep? my weight is 86kg and I run a hybrid bike for daily commuting on road. thanks
I'm surprised at 25psi baseline. I am 55kg and ride a cheapo 26er hardtail. Tyres are 2.35", rims are 32mm internal. I run 12psi front, 13psi rear.
Can I use 2.6 tyres into my 25mm inner diameter rim? As everytime I purchased a tyres they're always narrower compared to the original manufacture size! 2.40 always came 2.3 and it is so disappointing
I’m 185 pounds and ride a plus size hardtail with 19 psi in the front and 21 in the back, for aggressive trail riding and some downhill
My XC bike has a tyre pressure of 80 psi and I'm still not satisfied. I mostly ride on roads and pavements. I feel like I'm getting less resistance with more psi. I weigh 80kg. I'm I doing it wrong?
I'm 14 and only weight 85 pounds so I normally run 19psi rear and 17psi front in my 2.3 in maxxis minions.
Iam 14 stone or 196 lbs 6:2 height any ideas on the psi pressure I should be putting in my hybrid bicycle for my commute to work ??
I run tubeless 27.5"+ and I use 22 psi up front and 28 psi at the back
On a hardtail it is very important to go tubeless at least in the back if you want grip and reliability, with tubes you don't get that. (I ride on rocky terrain and very often get pinch flats in the rear even with 30 psi)
30R 27F but I am a cheese burger loving, beer drinking, fat ass.
Rapid robs I was running 30/35 psi front to rear all year round they felt great for speed and grip I’m currently running dhf/r2 and running 30/30 psi and the grip advantage is amazing I didn’t think it would make much of a difference but it does hope this helps out a newbie somewhere in the mountain bike world 👍🏻🤘🏻
thanx for vid.. one thing though ur numbers are def lil off as far as lotta diff trails and ones by me some i ride 29'" 2.6" tires front air pressure 14 rear 17 and when i run 20 or more i wash out in the turns i only weigh 120 and i have even run 10r and 8f just sayin for avg person 20-25 is fine but not for everyone and every trail..
I'm 250lbs and found I really need a bit more air for climbing efficiency. Went up a bit more than I thought I'd need (around 30) but climbing is much easier and cornering is still good. Had to find the sweet spot between that.
I run 32 PSI is that good? I'm 75KG my bike is around 15KG
40-65 PSI is the limit specified on my tires..I stay at 50/50..Feels GOOD!!!!
I will usually guide the pressure based on small rocks and stones on the ground, If i feel the stone, I usually turn the pressure down.
For us bigger guys should we start with a higher pressure. I would think so. I weigh in at about 228 lbs/103 kg.
What range of tire are you calling a mtn bike tire. I realize that psi change is not so dramatic as going from a 22 to a 25 road tire, but this general rule has to have a range? I think a bit like GCN did on weight and tire would be good. Do you change psi on the rear tire differently if it is a hard tail?
I'm a bigger guy.. 6'3" and 265lbs /120kg.. I go about 25/30 psi f/r with my nobby nics atm.. not sure need to try these tips I may need to go up a bit perhaps given my size and all. riding a Anthem X29er currently.
maddingo do you have trouble with spokes coming loose? I’ve been running 31-29 psi. Spokes are always working loose
Fu*k no wonder I’m always slipping I run mine at 70 psi 😅😅😅
For a guy at 6ft4inch and light but not too light what do people think I should go for with 26" by 2" wheels ?
Shouldn't tire size be mentioned hear as a 2.8 tire can be run at lower pressure vs 2.4.
25 rear & 24 front helps with jumps, My weight 65kg
My tyers don't go flat bicuase I got steal plate inside my Tyer and It actually works and a nail will just brake in harf
I usually go 20 in the front and 21 in the rear. I’m 165 pounds.
I've just gone tubeless 2.3 maxxis high rollers and run 30psi feels pretty good.
I run a 29er with 2.6 tyres at mo, doing local rides front is 16psi rear is 18 psi it will change when i start to go to the peak dis,
Tyre pressure for me is 9.0 psi front and 9.5 psi rear should mention the bike has a 5 inch tyre set up ( fat bike )
Hopless didn't mention rider weight don't give up your day job bye