Does your rec/reg have a 12 volt signal wire and you're getting a slight over charge? This video will explain why AND how you can test that for yourself!
Thank you. Months of over-volting mystery and this video has proved I have this problem on my MicroCar. Now to find out why I have voltage drop on a Peugeot 106 instrument panel which provides the signal to the rectifier/regulator.
Thanks for the video, you showed me how to fix my 1984vt700c overcharging problem. However the bike stays running until I pull the jumper wire, how do I fix that?
I just bought an 85 Goldwing Ltd. with the expected unfixed electrical problems. Good heavens I need more videos like this. I wish I had money to plop some down on this guy even if it doesn't directly benefit me.
This is more than wonderful man.. I wish you would put a diagram explaining what you did in the video because My English is weak and I did not understand most of your words.. Thank you very much
Ok so im just going to come out and say it. This is a design flaw in the regulator/rectifier. Any load increase such as headlights turning on will produce a voltage drop which the young man in this video tried to demonstrate in this video. These regulators are having over charging issues due to the voltage drop it senses and not charging based off of load variance. Even with a perfect brand new harness and nothing else wrong with the rest of the system the minute this regulator detects a voltage drop due to headlights turning on or load increase it immediately shoots up and over charges. So with that being said your regulator is not working as it should and you need to stop pointing the finger back to the user but instead back at yourself and recognize its a design flaw and fix it already.
I came across this vid after going through 2 aftermarket rectifiers ($70+ ones, which stabilized the voltage better than OEM Honda's rectifier I found) and 2 batteries ($80+ ones, bulging on all sides due to being overcharged) within a year's time. And then I came across your comment & it got me thinking: I added a few aftermarket electronic components, but I can't imagine that switching from halogen to led headlights, halogen to led turn signals, adding an illumiglo kit to the gauges, a fuel level sensor and an electronic quickshifter would drop the voltage to the rectifier to such a degree that they keep destroying my batteries. Could it be that running those components PLUS wire corrosion over 25 year's time is causing my issue repeatedly?
@@AyPapi69 ANy update on your situation? When I got my bike the battery died two days later... 10v. Seemed like original Honda Battery. Replaced- thought I was good to go, and maybe I was, for a time. I added a LED headlight, and a USB charger... afaik the LED headlight should use less watts than the halogen 55w. USB is a tiny load. Next thing I know, I've cooked my battery after a long ride. Tested with multimeter (once I got another new battery) and it's showing 17.5 while charging. Seems like rectifier is not working, but now I'm wondering if it's just shit wires causing an otherwise good rectifier to preform incorrectly. I suspect this, because when I tested the rectifier with ohm settings, everything seems to come back .5v which is in spec...
@@gregwhite4497 Well...when I was on my 3rd reg/rec, manufacturer suggested I ground it to batt neg, which I did. I also had the pos & neg output of the reg/rec going to batt pos & neg. The wires going from the stator plug to reg/rec I had also renewed. It went fine for a while till one day my voltage meter on the dash was showing 15+ V between the batt poles while the bike was idling (usually it showed around 14V). I tested the reg/rec & it was bad. I had a cheap $12 chinese one lying around which I never used because it tested bad when I received it. When I mounted it though, it worked. Voltages going to batt were less stable than with the more expensive one that went bad, but they were within limit. While that reg/rec was on the bike, I ordered a mosfet reg/rec, mounted it after I got it & no problems yet.. 🤷🏾♂️
Thanks for the info. I'm having an overcharge problem with a motorcycle honda shadow. I already change the regulator/recitifier thinking this was going to be the solution, but the problem persisted. But now thanks to your video I'm having my suspects on a bad spark plug wire that my bike has.
Found this video looking for help I have a beta 300 rr racing enduro testing across the battery i am having voltage spikes of 15~16 found this out as the bike was wrecking batteries. in the attempt to repair I have replaced the regulator , stator , Cdi , complete wiring harness , battery , ground , battery leads , multimeter tool and still no joy and having the same issues ! dose anyone have any ideas what could be causing this please ? Thank you.
Oooo my lord thank u so much for making this video helps more than u will ever know iv been blaming the cheap rectifiers all this time when who knows if they were actually bad or not
@@RicksElectrics ok thanks. I did the test and it's still high can anything else besides the regulator cause this or is it definitely the regulator? Thanks.
@@newscooler12316 Overcharging is ultimately a function of the voltage regulator; bad wiring can have an effect (that's what the video is addressing) but in the end it comes back to the voltage regulator. That's the control mechanism. If you email us at info@ricksmotorsportelectrics.com we can get you set up to send this part in to be tested in-house. That's the only way we're going to be able to tell you with certainty whether the part is good or bad.
@@newscooler12316 If you email us at info@ricksmotorsportelectrics.com we can get you set up to send this part in to be tested in-house. I cannot accurately diagnose a problem like this via youtube comments. We need to know exactly what's going on, exact connections, what exactly is connected where, where exactly the meter contact points are connected, etc. Ultimately we will need the rec/reg(s) here to be tested in-house in order to know conclusively if they're good or bad.
Hi sir, i have lithium ion battery on my motorcycle when im riding with lights off, volt meter shows constant 14.9 and 14.8 to 14.9 when lights on, sometimes ticks to 15.0 to 15.2. I already try new regulator but still same output. Is thier a problem in my wirings? Hope you can help me.
I just got a 2005 polaris 200 for my son. The battery charged up to 16.2 and was beeping and flashing on the screen. Ill be testing some stuff tomorrow thank u for the video
Ok my regulator rectifier Plug was burnt so I so I hardwired the wires together together would that cause my battery to overcharge because it wasn't charging at 1st my battery kept dying
Sorry..my cbr1000rr years 2009 always got problem,when i buy a new batery after ride 70-80km my battery swollen..i buy a new batery will be the same problem..check the volt when i started 15.2 volt..when i touch the rectifier too hot..it is rectifier problem???please answer bro..
Hi sir My question is When the Burgman 650 bike is running for 2 minutes, it the regulator too hot to touch by hand? Is this temperature a problem or is it normal?
does this works on any motorcycle regulator? sir? my voltmeter reads 15.2 volts max with a new regulator, and i have an old battery how do i reduce the voltage going to my battery is this how you do it? my motorcycle is a 2010 XR200
My 04 r1 is over charging my battery, bike want start now. Bought a new stator and Rec, bike still doesn’t start. Battery reading 12.5v is this enough to start my bike? Help please
The diodes in series with the 12V+ line in the little 8 wire rig are not part of any solution; they are there to simulate something like a bad connection or corroded wiring causing a voltage drop. It was a lot easier to just drop half a volt across them (due to threshold voltage) than to intentionally damage the dyno's wiring in order to produce a voltage drop on the line.
Hi Rick! I have a problem with my duke 200 Ktm, already rewinded the stator coil, changed the Rectifier, at first i got 14.2v after I installed those 2, but after a day when Im on the road for about an hour i just saw my voltmeter with a reading of 16-17v and sometime goes up to near 18v, does that mean my new REC has been cooked? Note: my headlight is ON and the Rad fan is also running Thank you
My regulator rectifier was overcharging by a little, hitting 15.5 when revving the engine. I made a jumper that plugged into the black reg/rec wire and went straight to the battery. When I fired up the bike it was charging at the correct voltage. I've heard corrosion on the ignition switch is what causes the high charging problem a lot of the time. (I ordered a cheap replacement ignition for 10 bucks that I'm going to test. If a new ignition does the trick and I get a normal charge, I'll take my stock ignition apart and clean it.)
The diodes in series with the 12V+ line in the little 8 wire rig are not part of any solution; they are there to simulate something like a bad connection or corroded wiring causing a voltage drop. It was a lot easier to just drop half a volt across them (due to threshold voltage) than to intentionally damage the dyno's wiring in order to produce a voltage drop on the line.
Hello ric. My yamaha virago rectifier reached 14.6 to 14.8. When running. But when i turn on the headlight, the voltage drops steady to 13.5v . Does it mean my rectifier is broken? Or should i try your method?
It's normal for battery voltage to drop when you add a load, especially a large load like a headlight. 13.5 Vdc is on the low end of a good charging system but it is on the positive side of break-even. If you want us to test it on our dyno, we can do that for a nominal fee if you send the part to us.
Hi Rick, my multimeter is giving a reading across the battery terminals of 18.21v at tick over. Do you think that such a high reading rules out a corrosion issue? The manual says spec for my reg/rec is 13.4v-15.5v please let me know what you think thank you
I'm getting 17.5V when I'm on the top of 3rd gear w/ the R6. My phase wires are connected randomly. Does it matter to have them connected to the rectifier into the right port?? I'm not at 17.5V for too long but only under full WOT. If I fix the problem, in the future, can the battery just blow up out of the blue??
@@RicksElectrics AGM, I'm getting an OEM one from Yamaha, to do it right. I will see. I think it's the rectifier. I used to buy parts not authentic thinking they are better but sometimes it's not to be the case.
It's just a low-current 12V rectifier diode. Two of them are connected in series on the switched B+ line to create an intentional voltage drop of ~1V, resulting in the corresponding overcharge. This is not a diagnostic tool; it was only done to create a voltage-drop fault for the simulation. In the "real-world" application these voltage drops are typically caused by things like old, corroded wiring, bad contacts in the main switch, etc. especially since bikes with this problem are usually 20+ years old. The diagnostic "trick" is to use a jumper to connect the switched B+ line to the permanent B+ line and see if the overcharge goes away. If it does, the regulator itself is good and the problem is in the wiring/connections; if it remains the regulator itself is likely bad.
Hello Rick, I recently replace my whole charging system including the battery on my bike. Problem is the charge over the terminals when the bike is running fluctuates quite a bit and as the revs pick up so does the voltage. I can’t figure out where the problem is. I’m concerned if I take it to a shop I’ll be charged an arm and a leg for diagnostics and they may not even find the problem.... the bike is a 1990 ZZR600 (UK). I’ve checked all the earths and cleaned up contacts etc...... next thing is running through the whole harness looking for corroded cables..... any short cuts?
To what degree of fluctuation are you talking about? Numbers will tell all then I can advise further. What do you charge at idle, 3K RPM, & 6K RPM? And how much fluctuation between?
The wire gets hot b/c current is flowing through & is hitting resistance. May be as simple as a replacing a "dirty" connector but could also be a ton of other things too numerous to list. Hopefully it's just a connector & you can buy that right from us for about $10.
I need your help : my Scooter battery reads many numbers in a second and never stops at one number it reads 9v/10v /16v/ 13v all these crazy reads happens in less han one second and never stops ... so I thought it would be the regulator and I bought a new regulator the same shape I have , but it did not work , it explodes the Fuse and make wires gets hot if I tough the battery charger cable to the batery, then I had to reinstall the Old Regulator and it works and charge well but multi reading per second , the same reading with a new battery .. what do you think ? CDI box or Regulator ??? I have measured all the other electronic parts and they all works well
@@RepMontreal :I think it is the magnetic field of the flywheel , do when it rotate it effects the Multimeter , even without using the probes . just make it close to the magnetic field when you turn onthe scooter : I think it is a big mistake withthe Engine frame and place of the battery of Chinese junks
Nice video! I was browsing internet for many hours to find your video. I have Honda Transalp XL600, 1989. It has the following problem - rectifier/regulator gives out 15.2 Volts to battery. Although Honda manual says the limits should be 13.5 to 15.5 Volts, I believe its somewhat too much. I checked the rectifier/regulator according to manual - the resistance between wires are up to manuals limits. So the piece seem to be OK. In Adv rider forum I found that bad connections might be the problem, and the fix is easy but time consuming - to check all connections for some loose ones. Following this - I looked the main connectors (under the tank, ground connectors etc.), unfortunately, nothing changed. I will try your method, hopefully it will say that I have to check absolutely all connections to find the problem :) Thank you for your demonstration!
Hi guys, I have one more question. After checking entire wiring on 89 Transalp xl600, multi-meter still shows 15 Volts. With your shown method (connecting black to red wires), multi-meter shows 14.5 volts. My question is, can motorbike be used in long term with black and red wires connected (as you shown in your video)?
Hey man I have a Yamaha r6s 2007 and my rectifier/regulator has 2 plug ins but online when I try to buy a new one it only has 1 plug in. What do you think it is?? Pls help
Hey Raphael - can you send a photo to us so we can see? All info I have is that it only has 1 plug... send it to info@ricksmotorsportelectrics.com with a message of what you're looking for.
Would you have any advice on my 2001 cbr600. The first regulator overcharged the battery til it boiled dry. The second one undercharges it and kills it in a few hours. Do you there is any way to fix this without buying a third regulator?
does the signal wire need to be routed through the ignition switch? can the signal wire be connected directly to the battery with constant power? or will this keep the regulator active constantly?
Great explanation, Shawn. Rick, or if anyone is listening, I'm curious to get input: how sensitive is a typical R/R to signal wire input voltages? Put another way: how much of a voltage drop on the signal wire is worth worrying about? Would be 0.3V significant enough to cause the R/R to crank out 15V or more? I'm asking because my battery is getting around 15-.1 or 15.2V from the R/R, which is too high. I immediately suspected a bad R/W, but I then discovered a small drop of 0.3V on the signal wire. Unfortunately, I'm not sure if the 0.3V drop from the signal wire is the issue, or if the R/R is just toast and 0.3V is too small of a drop to worry about.
your regulator is working properly, it's just getting the wrong input from the signal wire (the .3 volts) Without that drop, you would be regulating at 14.8-14.9, although this is the highest range the battery can handle. Is this with headlight on or off?
@@RicksElectrics Good to know. I believe it with the headlight on. I agree that the high side of 14V is still too. I'll try to do the jumper trick and see if it changes - perhaps I have both a signal wire issue and a cooked R/R! This is an 1985 model, so it's about time...
The diod wire was just put in place to simulate what happens with corroded connections. So no, don't use them. You wouldn't be able to properly diagnose your problem if you did.
@@RicksElectrics hello rick. How the signal wire burns regulAtor? How can we check the signal wire? Should be uncovered? I have 19.5 v and already burned 4 regulator on my vfr 1995
@@michelwaknin9893 If it's a 1995 VFR750 then it doesn't have a signal wire. It should be a 5-wire plug with three stator wires, a DC+, and a DC-. Also, signal wire problems typically result in overcharges of 15.0-16.0V that remain constant when revved. 19.5V is likely a bad regulator.
Check the voltage of each wire with the engine always off, but with the ignition switch itself OFF and then ON. It will not be the yellow wires. One of the wires (I imagine the black) will get 12V from the battery only when the ignition is on. The other color will have constant voltage.
your 3 yellows are AC input. The 2 red are DC positive output. You should also have 2 green wires (that's the negative DC/ground). The black wire is connected to your ignition switch. It only comes live 12 volts when you turn the key on. On motorcycles with this black wire, that's who the regulator looks at the battery to determine the regulated voltage.
Solving one problem with atomic bomb, creating another, more difficult to diagnose (VERY AMERICAN STYLE). Typical design of regulator expects certain internal resistance between feedback and output + lines as it drives internal voltage regulator (otherwise they would NOT separate cables, if in doubt refer to LM317 design, not same thing but gives the idea why things are made as they are). If you ignore this, you can expect ringing, noise, weak regulation (over/undervoltage of +/- 100%) and wild voltage spikes for certain frequencies, relating ot certain RPM... Now have fun finding which one over the trip across US. Most of the time it will work fine. It might just 'explode' (overheat reg, fry battery) let's say riding between 3200-3250RPM after 55 minutes on interstate.
It is not intended to actually be ridden in this manner. It is only a diagnostic tool to determine if a voltage drop on the sensor wire is responsible for an overcharge, as opposed to the regulator itself being faulty. Once it is ascertained that a voltage drop is the cause of the overcharge, the mechanic must then isolate the cause of the voltage drop by measuring voltages on that circuit.
Thanks for the feedback. Unfortunately we need to run a motor in order to simulate the test. That's the noise that you heard. Otherwise we wouldn't be able to show the actual problem.
Thank you. Months of over-volting mystery and this video has proved I have this problem on my MicroCar. Now to find out why I have voltage drop on a Peugeot 106 instrument panel which provides the signal to the rectifier/regulator.
Thanks for the video, you showed me how to fix my 1984vt700c overcharging problem. However the bike stays running until I pull the jumper wire, how do I fix that?
I just bought an 85 Goldwing Ltd. with the expected unfixed electrical problems. Good heavens I need more videos like this. I wish I had money to plop some down on this guy even if it doesn't directly benefit me.
Great video sir...keep them coming...Thank you.
This is more than wonderful man.. I wish you would put a diagram explaining what you did in the video because My English is weak and I did not understand most of your words.. Thank you very much
So what can cause this problem/ what should I do to correct this?
You won a calendar! Text us your address and info to send it out! (603) 329-9901
Jumper wire act like resistance?
Ok so im just going to come out and say it. This is a design flaw in the regulator/rectifier. Any load increase such as headlights turning on will produce a voltage drop which the young man in this video tried to demonstrate in this video. These regulators are having over charging issues due to the voltage drop it senses and not charging based off of load variance. Even with a perfect brand new harness and nothing else wrong with the rest of the system the minute this regulator detects a voltage drop due to headlights turning on or load increase it immediately shoots up and over charges. So with that being said your regulator is not working as it should and you need to stop pointing the finger back to the user but instead back at yourself and recognize its a design flaw and fix it already.
I came across this vid after going through 2 aftermarket rectifiers ($70+ ones, which stabilized the voltage better than OEM Honda's rectifier I found) and 2 batteries ($80+ ones, bulging on all sides due to being overcharged) within a year's time.
And then I came across your comment & it got me thinking: I added a few aftermarket electronic components, but I can't imagine that switching from halogen to led headlights, halogen to led turn signals, adding an illumiglo kit to the gauges, a fuel level sensor and an electronic quickshifter would drop the voltage to the rectifier to such a degree that they keep destroying my batteries.
Could it be that running those components PLUS wire corrosion over 25 year's time is causing my issue repeatedly?
@@AyPapi69 I’m going through this exactly right now!
@@AyPapi69 ANy update on your situation?
When I got my bike the battery died two days later... 10v.
Seemed like original Honda Battery. Replaced- thought I was good to go, and maybe I was, for a time.
I added a LED headlight, and a USB charger... afaik the LED headlight should use less watts than the halogen 55w. USB is a tiny load.
Next thing I know, I've cooked my battery after a long ride. Tested with multimeter (once I got another new battery) and it's showing 17.5 while charging.
Seems like rectifier is not working, but now I'm wondering if it's just shit wires causing an otherwise good rectifier to preform incorrectly. I suspect this, because when I tested the rectifier with ohm settings, everything seems to come back .5v which is in spec...
@@gregwhite4497 Well...when I was on my 3rd reg/rec, manufacturer suggested I ground it to batt neg, which I did. I also had the pos & neg output of the reg/rec going to batt pos & neg. The wires going from the stator plug to reg/rec I had also renewed.
It went fine for a while till one day my voltage meter on the dash was showing 15+ V between the batt poles while the bike was idling (usually it showed around 14V). I tested the reg/rec & it was bad. I had a cheap $12 chinese one lying around which I never used because it tested bad when I received it. When I mounted it though, it worked. Voltages going to batt were less stable than with the more expensive one that went bad, but they were within limit.
While that reg/rec was on the bike, I ordered a mosfet reg/rec, mounted it after I got it & no problems yet.. 🤷🏾♂️
I have had this happen to several R/Rs in a row, so how do I fix this "design flaw" How about some real info?
Thanks for the info. I'm having an overcharge problem with a motorcycle honda shadow. I already change the regulator/recitifier thinking this was going to be the solution, but the problem persisted. But now thanks to your video I'm having my suspects on a bad spark plug wire that my bike has.
Buen dia amigo no entendi bien el video donde el puso el cable de llump positivo a negativo? tengo una vt1100 2004
Sir how about if 5 wires where can i connect the wire? I hope you will answer this
Does it make any difference which wire the red is jumped to ?
Found this video looking for help I have a beta 300 rr racing enduro testing across the battery i am having voltage spikes of 15~16 found this out as the bike was wrecking batteries. in the attempt to repair I have replaced the regulator , stator , Cdi , complete wiring harness , battery , ground , battery leads , multimeter tool and still no joy and having the same issues ! dose anyone have any ideas what could be causing this please ? Thank you.
Oooo my lord thank u so much for making this video helps more than u will ever know iv been blaming the cheap rectifiers all this time when who knows if they were actually bad or not
In the case of a vt1100 that does not have a black cable?
How would I do this test on my 79 xs400? Which wire is the signal wire? I installed a new rectifier now I have an over charge problem...
On a 79 XS400 you'd be jumping red (permanent 12V+) to brown (switched 12V+)
@@RicksElectrics ok thanks. I did the test and it's still high can anything else besides the regulator cause this or is it definitely the regulator? Thanks.
@@newscooler12316 Overcharging is ultimately a function of the voltage regulator; bad wiring can have an effect (that's what the video is addressing) but in the end it comes back to the voltage regulator. That's the control mechanism.
If you email us at info@ricksmotorsportelectrics.com we can get you set up to send this part in to be tested in-house. That's the only way we're going to be able to tell you with certainty whether the part is good or bad.
@@RicksElectrics ok I did the test again with a new regulator and it over charges. before jumping it it doesn't charge at all! What is the issue!?
@@newscooler12316 If you email us at info@ricksmotorsportelectrics.com we can get you set up to send this part in to be tested in-house. I cannot accurately diagnose a problem like this via youtube comments. We need to know exactly what's going on, exact connections, what exactly is connected where, where exactly the meter contact points are connected, etc. Ultimately we will need the rec/reg(s) here to be tested in-house in order to know conclusively if they're good or bad.
Which wires do you connect with the jumper wire? Can you leave the jumper wire in permanently?
that was a big help and an excellent video. thanks, fellow humans!
Hi sir, i have lithium ion battery on my motorcycle when im riding with lights off, volt meter shows constant 14.9 and 14.8 to 14.9 when lights on, sometimes ticks to 15.0 to 15.2. I already try new regulator but still same output. Is thier a problem in my wirings? Hope you can help me.
I have the exact same problem, did you find what the problem was?
Thanks for the video. Once you have identified it's a sense wire issue, what's the next steps?
They explain how to fix at 2:33
So you have to jump the red and put it together to the green
I just got a 2005 polaris 200 for my son. The battery charged up to 16.2 and was beeping and flashing on the screen. Ill be testing some stuff tomorrow thank u for the video
Ok my regulator rectifier Plug was burnt so I so I hardwired the wires together together would that cause my battery to overcharge because it wasn't charging at 1st my battery kept dying
It can, if the rec/reg has a switched 12V+ input and the burned plug damaged the wiring sufficient to create a voltage drop.
Hey my stator motor keeps getting burned and my rectifier is overcharging at 15.6v what can I do?
I’ve already changed 3 stator coil
My bike is Yamaha FZ1S
The noise made by the running of the test machine is a bit disturbing while trying to hear to the comments on the test procedure.
I understand. Just the limitations of showing the actual process.
Sorry..my cbr1000rr years 2009 always got problem,when i buy a new batery after ride 70-80km my battery swollen..i buy a new batery will be the same problem..check the volt when i started 15.2 volt..when i touch the rectifier too hot..it is rectifier problem???please answer bro..
Hi sir
My question is
When the Burgman 650 bike is running for 2 minutes, it the regulator too hot to touch by hand?
Is this temperature a problem or is it normal?
I’m getting 14.7 with the jumper installed, is that too much voltage?
That means the voltage regulator is probably fine and it's likely a wiring issue.
Isent it better just to connect the regulator to the battery?
does this works on any motorcycle regulator? sir? my voltmeter reads 15.2 volts max with a new regulator, and i have an old battery how do i reduce the voltage going to my battery is this how you do it? my motorcycle is a 2010 XR200
if my regulater has one back diode can i use it by disconnecting the cable to the bad diode so im running off 2 of the phases
My 04 r1 is over charging my battery, bike want start now. Bought a new stator and Rec, bike still doesn’t start. Battery reading 12.5v is this enough to start my bike? Help please
Hiya, got a question for you. Is there anyway I can contact you privately maybe email??
Can it be use to four pin regulator
It depends on whether it has a 12V sensor wire.
What is the diode capacity?
The diodes in series with the 12V+ line in the little 8 wire rig are not part of any solution; they are there to simulate something like a bad connection or corroded wiring causing a voltage drop. It was a lot easier to just drop half a volt across them (due to threshold voltage) than to intentionally damage the dyno's wiring in order to produce a voltage drop on the line.
Thank you
Hi Rick! I have a problem with my duke 200 Ktm, already rewinded the stator coil, changed the Rectifier, at first i got 14.2v after I installed those 2, but after a day when Im on the road for about an hour i just saw my voltmeter with a reading of 16-17v and sometime goes up to near 18v, does that mean my new REC has been cooked?
Note: my headlight is ON and the Rad fan is also running
Thank you
ellezer arceo yes
Gracias ! Hora de probrar mi rectificador
de nada!
My regulator rectifier was overcharging by a little, hitting 15.5 when revving the engine. I made a jumper that plugged into the black reg/rec wire and went straight to the battery. When I fired up the bike it was charging at the correct voltage. I've heard corrosion on the ignition switch is what causes the high charging problem a lot of the time. (I ordered a cheap replacement ignition for 10 bucks that I'm going to test. If a new ignition does the trick and I get a normal charge, I'll take my stock ignition apart and clean it.)
Have you replaced the ignition yet? I am having the same issues and would love to know how yours turned out. Thanks!
diode capacity pls?
The diodes in series with the 12V+ line in the little 8 wire rig are not part of any solution; they are there to simulate something like a bad connection or corroded wiring causing a voltage drop. It was a lot easier to just drop half a volt across them (due to threshold voltage) than to intentionally damage the dyno's wiring in order to produce a voltage drop on the line.
How too buyfast what color of wire for a jumper wire
Hi rick how are u? Nise vidio,,i from indonesia,i waching u vidio,,,
Diagram plsss
Hello ric. My yamaha virago rectifier reached 14.6 to 14.8. When running. But when i turn on the headlight, the voltage drops steady to 13.5v . Does it mean my rectifier is broken? Or should i try your method?
It's normal for battery voltage to drop when you add a load, especially a large load like a headlight. 13.5 Vdc is on the low end of a good charging system but it is on the positive side of break-even. If you want us to test it on our dyno, we can do that for a nominal fee if you send the part to us.
thanks.`87 wing with that exact problem,will be testing!
Awesome - happy to help!
Hi Rick, my multimeter is giving a reading across the battery terminals of 18.21v at tick over. Do you think that such a high reading rules out a corrosion issue? The manual says spec for my reg/rec is 13.4v-15.5v please let me know what you think thank you
That is outrageously high. At that rate, you will damage your light bulbs & your electronic ignition box, & it won't take long. Replace ASAP!!
I'm getting 17.5V when I'm on the top of 3rd gear w/ the R6. My phase wires are connected randomly. Does it matter to have them connected to the rectifier into the right port?? I'm not at 17.5V for too long but only under full WOT. If I fix the problem, in the future, can the battery just blow up out of the blue??
Connecting them randomly doesn't matter. Not sure how much damage has been donw to the battery... do you have a lead acid of a lithium battery?
@@RicksElectrics AGM, I'm getting an OEM one from Yamaha, to do it right. I will see. I think it's the rectifier. I used to buy parts not authentic thinking they are better but sometimes it's not to be the case.
What kind of diode did u use and did u connect it sir?
It's just a low-current 12V rectifier diode. Two of them are connected in series on the switched B+ line to create an intentional voltage drop of ~1V, resulting in the corresponding overcharge. This is not a diagnostic tool; it was only done to create a voltage-drop fault for the simulation. In the "real-world" application these voltage drops are typically caused by things like old, corroded wiring, bad contacts in the main switch, etc. especially since bikes with this problem are usually 20+ years old. The diagnostic "trick" is to use a jumper to connect the switched B+ line to the permanent B+ line and see if the overcharge goes away. If it does, the regulator itself is good and the problem is in the wiring/connections; if it remains the regulator itself is likely bad.
Hello Rick, I recently replace my whole charging system including the battery on my bike. Problem is the charge over the terminals when the bike is running fluctuates quite a bit and as the revs pick up so does the voltage. I can’t figure out where the problem is. I’m concerned if I take it to a shop I’ll be charged an arm and a leg for diagnostics and they may not even find the problem.... the bike is a 1990 ZZR600 (UK). I’ve checked all the earths and cleaned up contacts etc...... next thing is running through the whole harness looking for corroded cables..... any short cuts?
To what degree of fluctuation are you talking about? Numbers will tell all then I can advise further. What do you charge at idle, 3K RPM, & 6K RPM? And how much fluctuation between?
i have a 2000 arctic cat 300 4x4 atv the voltage reflector keeps melting the wire on it what could be the problem please help
The wire gets hot b/c current is flowing through & is hitting resistance. May be as simple as a replacing a "dirty" connector but could also be a ton of other things too numerous to list. Hopefully it's just a connector & you can buy that right from us for about $10.
Hi. My klr250 regulator rectifier is hot to the touch when my bike is running. Should I replace?
no. You only replace it when it fails. It's how b/c it's dissipating voltage.
I need your help : my Scooter battery reads many numbers in a second and never stops at one number it reads 9v/10v /16v/ 13v all these crazy reads happens in less han one second and never stops ... so I thought it would be the regulator and I bought a new regulator the same shape I have , but it did not work , it explodes the Fuse and make wires gets hot if I tough the battery charger cable to the batery, then I had to reinstall the Old Regulator and it works and charge well but multi reading per second , the same reading with a new battery .. what do you think ? CDI box or Regulator ??? I have measured all the other electronic parts and they all works well
Check your stator.
@@RepMontreal :I think it is the magnetic field of the flywheel , do when it rotate it effects the Multimeter , even without using the probes . just make it close to the magnetic field when you turn onthe scooter : I think it is a big mistake withthe Engine frame and place of the battery of Chinese junks
Nice video! I was browsing internet for many hours to find your video. I have Honda Transalp XL600, 1989. It has the following problem - rectifier/regulator gives out 15.2 Volts to battery. Although Honda manual says the limits should be 13.5 to 15.5 Volts, I believe its somewhat too much. I checked the rectifier/regulator according to manual - the resistance between wires are up to manuals limits. So the piece seem to be OK. In Adv rider forum I found that bad connections might be the problem, and the fix is easy but time consuming - to check all connections for some loose ones. Following this - I looked the main connectors (under the tank, ground connectors etc.), unfortunately, nothing changed. I will try your method, hopefully it will say that I have to check absolutely all connections to find the problem :) Thank you for your demonstration!
Hi guys, I have one more question. After checking entire wiring on 89 Transalp xl600, multi-meter still shows 15 Volts. With your shown method (connecting black to red wires), multi-meter shows 14.5 volts. My question is, can motorbike be used in long term with black and red wires connected (as you shown in your video)?
godjob sir
may i know what value of diode did you used?
Most silicon diode‘s have a forward voltage drop of .7 volts
Thanks for your insight sir
Hey man I have a Yamaha r6s 2007 and my rectifier/regulator has 2 plug ins but online when I try to buy a new one it only has 1 plug in. What do you think it is?? Pls help
Hey Raphael - can you send a photo to us so we can see? All info I have is that it only has 1 plug... send it to info@ricksmotorsportelectrics.com with a message of what you're looking for.
Can led headlights on a motorcycle cause a voltage drop?
no, you must have a short somewhere, or the led bulb may be defective
Would you have any advice on my 2001 cbr600. The first regulator overcharged the battery til it boiled dry. The second one undercharges it and kills it in a few hours. Do you there is any way to fix this without buying a third regulator?
I would send the rec/reg to us to make sure it's functioning properly. Under charging doesn't tell me enough - what is the voltage at the battery?
@@RicksElectrics at the battery I only read 9.08 volts at idle and 10.45 at around 7k rpms
does the signal wire need to be routed through the ignition switch? can the signal wire be connected directly to the battery with constant power? or will this keep the regulator active constantly?
The sensor wire should always be connected to a switched 12V connection to avoid an unnecessary current draw, which can result in a dead battery
How to wire jumper through ignition switch?
Great explanation, Shawn.
Rick, or if anyone is listening, I'm curious to get input: how sensitive is a typical R/R to signal wire input voltages? Put another way: how much of a voltage drop on the signal wire is worth worrying about?
Would be 0.3V significant enough to cause the R/R to crank out 15V or more?
I'm asking because my battery is getting around 15-.1 or 15.2V from the R/R, which is too high. I immediately suspected a bad R/W, but I then discovered a small drop of 0.3V on the signal wire.
Unfortunately, I'm not sure if the 0.3V drop from the signal wire is the issue, or if the R/R is just toast and 0.3V is too small of a drop to worry about.
your regulator is working properly, it's just getting the wrong input from the signal wire (the .3 volts) Without that drop, you would be regulating at 14.8-14.9, although this is the highest range the battery can handle. Is this with headlight on or off?
@@RicksElectrics Good to know. I believe it with the headlight on. I agree that the high side of 14V is still too. I'll try to do the jumper trick and see if it changes - perhaps I have both a signal wire issue and a cooked R/R! This is an 1985 model, so it's about time...
What color is the 12v signal wire on that rectifier you are using ??
On most Honda's it is black. Most early Kawasaki's it is brown. You can find that info in your wiring diagram.
Motor saya ada masalah pada pengisian,(over charnging) until 20v dc,tolong berikan solusinya
Can i just jump the wire without the diot? couse my bike have over charging issue
The diod wire was just put in place to simulate what happens with corroded connections. So no, don't use them. You wouldn't be able to properly diagnose your problem if you did.
If you jumped it out on a continuous basis, you would kill the battery.
@@daveco1270 Correct. This is a diagnostic, not a fix.
where i put the diode? how many amps if fast charging. thanks
The diode in the video is used the simulate the voltage drop. You don't use the diode to fix the problem
Can you please say me exacts wires on it.
Colours
Black and red
The jumper wire turns the headlights on, how do I get around this?
Sir 15.2 voltage is good or bad for motorcycle battery charging, pls reply sir, my motorcycle voltage goes to 15.10 sometimes, when much accelerated
That is too high for lead acid battery and WAY too high for lith-ion battery! Time to replace it.
Actually, check your signal wire going to the regulator - that's most likely the problem
@@RicksElectrics thanks sir
@@RicksElectrics hello rick. How the signal wire burns regulAtor? How can we check the signal wire? Should be uncovered? I have 19.5 v and already burned 4 regulator on my vfr 1995
@@michelwaknin9893 If it's a 1995 VFR750 then it doesn't have a signal wire. It should be a 5-wire plug with three stator wires, a DC+, and a DC-.
Also, signal wire problems typically result in overcharges of 15.0-16.0V that remain constant when revved. 19.5V is likely a bad regulator.
whats that 12v feed u are talking about.. ?? mine has 3 yellow wires, 2 red wires (connected in 1 socket), and a black wire..
Check the voltage of each wire with the engine always off, but with the ignition switch itself OFF and then ON. It will not be the yellow wires. One of the wires (I imagine the black) will get 12V from the battery only when the ignition is on. The other color will have constant voltage.
your 3 yellows are AC input. The 2 red are DC positive output. You should also have 2 green wires (that's the negative DC/ground). The black wire is connected to your ignition switch. It only comes live 12 volts when you turn the key on. On motorcycles with this black wire, that's who the regulator looks at the battery to determine the regulated voltage.
@@RicksElectrics mine has no green wire.. online black red and yellow wires.
@@djrcchannel6496 what bike do you have?
@@RicksElectrics Kawasaki (bajaj) rs200
it has two plugins on it
good viedeo
Solving one problem with atomic bomb, creating another, more difficult to diagnose (VERY AMERICAN STYLE). Typical design of regulator expects certain internal resistance between feedback and output + lines as it drives internal voltage regulator (otherwise they would NOT separate cables, if in doubt refer to LM317 design, not same thing but gives the idea why things are made as they are). If you ignore this, you can expect ringing, noise, weak regulation (over/undervoltage of +/- 100%) and wild voltage spikes for certain frequencies, relating ot certain RPM... Now have fun finding which one over the trip across US. Most of the time it will work fine. It might just 'explode' (overheat reg, fry battery) let's say riding between 3200-3250RPM after 55 minutes on interstate.
It is not intended to actually be ridden in this manner. It is only a diagnostic tool to determine if a voltage drop on the sensor wire is responsible for an overcharge, as opposed to the regulator itself being faulty. Once it is ascertained that a voltage drop is the cause of the overcharge, the mechanic must then isolate the cause of the voltage drop by measuring voltages on that circuit.
what is the color of the 2 wires you jump ?
what bike do you have? It is model specific
I have a Tao 125 ATV red to ignition white and yellow to stator green to ground.
@@davidnelson3334 we have no knowledge of that particular model so I can't accurately advise.
Ok thanks
For a gy6 engine I assume u have it would be red and black it’s pretty standard on Chinese scooters
Where are you guys located?
We are in Hampstead, NH
Did not enjoy your video very noisy
Thanks for the feedback. Unfortunately we need to run a motor in order to simulate the test. That's the noise that you heard. Otherwise we wouldn't be able to show the actual problem.
The way you said enjoy thats what i mean