How to | Calibrate TSO parallel guides | Festool Makita Triton track saw | Dave Stanton tso products
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- Опубліковано 28 сер 2024
- TSO Products Parallel guides available here. tsoproducts.co...
TSO GRS-16 PE available here. tsoproducts.co...
Bessey lever clamp to hold guide rail down. amzn.to/2Y2yTc2
Quick and easy calibration of the stops on your parallel guides even if your splinter guard is ruined on your Festool Makita or Triton guide rail. tso products festool guide rail guide rail square
Thank you Mr. Stanton, your videos provide great information in the simplest form. This is pure gold.
Thanks for the shoutout! Happy to help simplify things for you.
this is brilliant! this SHOULD be the video that TSO uses to reach how to calibrate their parallel guide system
I agree. I watched Dave's video a few times before it clicked with me.
I wish I had gone with the festool track saw over the makita. The quick change on the blade depth on the festool is nice
Thanks David! Very informative, until I bought the TSO parallel guides for my track saw, I always thought referencing your cut line off the splinter guard strip was always the weakest link. Those TSO parallel guides are perfection, I love mine.
I agree. No matter how careful I am when cutting a new rubber cut guide I always seem to have ragged sections, and that drives me mad! I'm forever measuring and obsessing getting a spot on cut. Dave's technique looks like a winner.
I found that keeping long sticks of plywood roughly 3/4x3/4 makes great story sticks. First I cut a length the exact width of the rail. Then I measure with that as the offset. I cut the story stick and use that to set the parallel by sandwiching it between the stop and the rail. The results were extremely consistent for perfectly parallel cuts.
Simpler way. 1) Slide stops (both guides) against back of rail; 2) cut a piece; 3) measure the piece; 4) loosen calibration grub screws ;5) set cursors to measured numbers 6) slide up to back of rail and tighten grub screws. Because you measured your saw/track combination, write it down and you can calibrate your narrow cut guides before each use using the same numbers plus 200
Brilliant method. It subtracts all the errors. Just did it and no error over 7 ft x 9 in piece. Thanks !!
I just got my TSO Guides. I may have thought of another way to calibrate which is quite similar to the TSO demonstration. Set both stop blocks on the same distance, could be 6 inches, doesnt matter. but move both guides close to each other so that the calibration rods are level with each other. Loosen the set screws and use a ruler, combination square to set both calibration rods at the same time, then tighten.
I know this doesnt address the point of your video which is all about a chewed up splinter guard, however you could make a cut, then do the same procedure with the combination square against cut vice the splinter guard and it should be simple and accurate.
these look way nicer than the Festool parallel guides I have.
Hi Joshua Bass, sure are.
Thanks Dave I think this explains why my cuts were off ever so slightly on long rips.
My pleasure Matt Eason !
Just checked my tracking number. My parallel guides will arrive tomorrow. Im so excited.
Really wish the Festool tools here in the states used Metric as well.
They do, only relatively recently have they begun offering imperial. All of my Festool older, 6 plus year old, tools and equipment is metric.
great precision work, great David 💯👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Tank’s Dave for all of your videos! They are very well made and no bla bla. I have one question regard tso rail adapter. I have the festool rails and there is 2 differents type of guide rail adaptor: one is a drop -on, the other is slide one. Wich one is best, more precise ? Sorry, my english is not very good and tank you for answering my question. Keep doing your videos.
I like the drop on as they are quick and accurate, with nylon grub screws to adjust the tension on rail contact.
I'm investing in the entire system. Tired of cutting larger sheet goods on the floor using a guide and circular saw. The cordless track saw option will enable me to put off upgrading the power in my workshop a few years.
Sounds great Christopher! Jump in to TSO through this link, tsoproducts.com?aff=2
Just like in the old day, with the camera on the ear protection :o)
Hi Johannes, they work well for me.
If only Incra made parallel guides for the track saw - then we could use their incremental rack for positioning the cursor instead of squinting at those laser etched lines.
Hi box185. Maybe a better pair of specs?
I agree. I'm going to put bench measure tapes on mine. A digital readout on the stops would be superb.
Oh man when you took that cut in reverse it scared me. I tried that once, most likely with incorrect technique, and the saw lifted off the track completely and made a huge gouge in the track.
Hi pid cin! 2 mm max depth on the scribe cut, 1/16th inch.
@@DavidStanton see thats the type of stuff I wish I knew back then. Thanks David!
David in your honest opinion, are these things as accurate as a heavy table saw and good fence ?
Is it possible to make a bevel cut to make that waterfall style cabinetry ?
pid cin, The tools are capable, it comes down to the person using them.
Here was my procedure. Cut length of X (part A). Set the stop to 2X. Use A against the stop to make a cut at 2X - A (part B). Make that cut (B) and prepare for another. You don’t need to cut the third cut. Just clamp it in place. Swap A and B. Then zero out your stop. A was a bit off but B should have been exact.
I'm sold tso. Take my money
Hahaha, enjoy.
Thanks for the video David, I was struggling to set this up correctly and your video made perfect sense! Just subscribed as well.
Awesome, thank you!
I wish they would sell this as a single track package to use with the square. I don’t need two since the rail square is square. Similar to a tablesaw fence.
Really like your method. It isn't so complicated that the explanation gets lost.
I have a few questions. Do you need to recalibrate if you change to a different length rail? I have a mix and match setup. I have a Makita cordless track saw, 2 Makita 55 inch rails, Festool's version of the GRS-16PE and a Festool 115 inch guide rail (FS-3000 I think?) for long cuts on sheet goods. The Makita and Festool rails are compatible with the exception of Makita's anti tip slot built into the rail. I chose to change to Festool rails because of how they are packaged for shipping and seemingly better quality control for guide rails. I do however have to adjust the saw when changing between brands to snug up to the guide rail slot. I'm not sure they are so different as to require recalibrating but I overthink and nitpick my work. Your suggestions are appreciated. Thanks Dave!
I too overthink and nitpick my work, especially when it come to trimming the splinter guard and calibratiing anything associated with my Makita track saw. It's maddening (and at times a time waster). All that said, I enjoy using my track saw.
Great stuff Dave
Thanks for the compliment Franks DIY!
How do you set your cursor? The instruction video from Hans wasn't very clear to me
does the reverse cut wear down your blade quicker or give you less resharpens?
Hey there! So, here's the deal with the reverse cut - it doesn't necessarily wear down your blade quicker, but you do need to be mindful of how you use it. Happy cutting!
I guess TSO finally upgraded the tracks to all be equal. My set I bought a year and half ago do not allow you to interchange stops. I would have been better off buying the new ones, than the amount of money I spent on having to buy dedicated stops for each track.
Interesting point crzyworm623. But it is hard to buy today what is only available tomorrow.
Hi. Thanks for the informative video. I recently purchased the Makita Track Saw system.
My question: I'm looking into the TSO parallel guide system. They offer a 20" inch rail, a 30" rail, and a combo set of 30"/50" rail ($100 more than the 30" set). In my spare time, I enjoy building small furniture for family and friends (book cases, shelves, tables, etc. in my side-of-the-garage shop. In your opinion, which rail size would you recommend? Thanks again!
It comes down to how wide a panel you want to cut. Most people would be best off with the 20 inch as they don't flop around and pull at the track.
I have the same setup with both long and short guides except I don't have the PE parallel edge guide. Generally I'm getting good results but I've been struggling when ripping pieces thinner than the track, say 3 or 4 inch wide piece out of a 5" piece. I calibrate the long rods by simply putting a piece of stock wood next to the splinter guard and butting the long rail up to it and set the indicator to 10". I've tried various ways of clamping. I feel like I'm always an 1/16 or even 1/8 off and it's driving me nuts! I'm guessing either my piece is being dragged out a bit as I'm making my cut or after seeing your video I wonder if my splinter guard on the track is off. or bit of both.
Good technique, but seems to depend on accuracy of tape measure. Who makes the most accurate tape measures, both metric & imperial? Any that can be calibrated post-sale to maintain accuracy? Maybe I need to get Woodpecker long flat rule?
Hi Michael! They will be as accurate as the rest of the job you are measuring with that same tape measure so it will be consistant.
Well done
My pleasure Warren Smith !
Thank you
You're welcome
I am shocked that such an expensive saw does not have a 2mm quick release button for lamanets. even my cheep saw has one. also can u use the guids if your doing a realy short piece than is narrower than the track? I belive the woodpecker one does. just wonderd if this did. 😊
Interesting point parrot340. Yes to narrow stock and I will cover that in a new video soon. Again, very easy. Didn't want to give to much info to be absorbed in one video.
Nice video sir!, but at 5.55 , the collar/stops was loose even though it showed on the scale the same distance, so the collar/stops will of course only go as far as it butts against the edge,,, am I missing something?
Interesting point Christopher Claudio Skierka. Watch the video a few more times. It all works perfectly.
Dave
What about the projection of the splinter guard from the edge of the track? Won’t it affect the accuracy of the cut because the blade is referencing the edge of the splinter guard as it rides on the track?
Hi Kirk! That has been allowed for when I did the initial cut.
@@DavidStanton My misinterpretation... you are correct, you did not move the track after you made the cut so indeed the allowance was made for.
Thanks so much for your correction.
Why the shallow reverse cut, to start?
It's called a scribing cut to give the cleanest result possible, more efficient than a forward shallow cut.
The GRS16 makes a square cut across the board. If you have the guide rail connected to the GRS16 and the rail calibrated, why do you need the 2nd guide rail? Just curious?
This is the way to callibrate the parallel guides. There are times when you can't use the GRS-16 because there is no right angle to square off and you may need another angle at the end of the sheet...other than 90 deg and you still require a parallel cut.
Do you reverse cut on all cuts or only on Formica? Not sure if you call it that.
Breal191, pretty much all cuts when I am using the track saw.
I'm hesitating in getting a set of TSO parallel guides, but I wonder how equally precise you can set both the stops just by eye. Even if you try really hard, you will never get both the stops exactly the same. Or is that error negligible?
Negligible.
..I have the same thought, surely even 2/10 mm over say 1 meter is going to make a difference? Do you have a MFT table Ramin? I am deciding to make a very large MFT top or go for these guides,
Great video Dave!! Thanks. How did you square up the ends? I wish TSO would get the stuff back in stock.
I used the GRS-16. Have a look at the response I gave Kiwi007
Hey Dave. Thanks for the post on the parallel guides. I just purchased a track guide for cutting large sheets. Is there a reason to have the Jessem stock guides if you are using a track saw?
Hi Mikey Gee! I like both setups. Gives me a heap of flexability.
Dave, shouldn't you have measured before adjusting the second TSO parallel guide. The far cut might not have been parallel to the cut at the guide rail.
Hi kiwi007. I could have but the grs 16 is spot on. The reason I calibrated was to use the parallel guides as an accurate measurement system without needing a pencil. I could get away with using the right hand parallel guide only and the grs-16PE
@@DavidStanton Hi Dave, You are correct as the grs-16PE is a precision tool. Therefor only one guide has to be measured and that value duplicated for the second guide.
The hot weather must have muddled my brain. No AC here and we are getting your hot weather now after 2 days delay.
Great video Dave. I've been trying to buy some of these from TSO, but they never seem to be available. Any tips on getting my hands on some of these?
Hi Justin! I believe they will be available later on this month. They are such a good system that it has been hard for the company to keep up with demand. tsoproducts.com/tso-parallel-guide-system/tpg-parallel-guide-system/?aff=2
They have a email notification system so just keep trying!
@@hellonokoI managed to get some. They were out of stock for a while but when they got stock back in, they even did international delivery. Arrived in Adelaide from the US in 6 days. Amazing! Great product too
They are back in stock.
Hi Dave
Long time fan, I have a set of the TSO PGS, but no matter what I do I can’t get it to cut accurately, no matter how many times I calibrate it, adjust it & check for squareness, my cuts are always a few mm off
Is there any help / tips or advice you can help with?
Many thanks from the UK!
Hi MrUmy786. Are you clamping the track after you put the parallel guides in position?
Hey Dave, any idea if anyone stocked the parallel guides in Australia? Ive been trying to find some.
No one stocks them here after Carbatec stopped stocking TSO Products.
@@DavidStanton Thanks for the reply Dave. What a shame. They look like they are the better guides. Would you recommend them over other brands, even considering they are $530 to ship here?
Why cut backwards? If it’s a scoring cut why not cut forward?
Paul Yanney, cutting the score backwards is using the down stroke of the blade, not the upstroke.
How did you ensure the sheet you started with had parallel sides? Before you calibrated.
I didn't. I straight lined one side and then used the GRS-16 to square off it.
..another thing, you may thinking both sides are correct but you can very easily be out by say 1/10 mm surely?,
Hi Christopher Claudio Skierka. No way it will be out by even 1/2 a mm.
@@DavidStanton 1/2mm is same as 5/10mm , I mentioned 1/10 or 1 tenth of a mm :) , surely it will be??
I just bought one of these systems but only with the GRS 16 (not the PE). I am trying to figure out how to get this initial piece squared up with what I have. The GRS16PE can create perpendicular cuts on left and right sides using same reference side, but the 16 can not. Can one just work your way around cutting 90's?
Hi Jason Gieseler. The PE was developed for a reason. I am not sure what you are asking?
@@DavidStanton sorry for the confusion and thank you for the reply! In short, how did you set up the board you used to calibrate the parallel guides.
Hi Jason, I created one straight edge using the tracksaw and then another at 90 degrees to it with the GRS-16.
I don't get it, all that work to make a cut. Seems like there should be a faster way to get a square cut.
where can we get tso products in australia please. carbatec no more it seems.
Only from the states. tsoproducts.com?aff=2
Why not just replace the splinter guard if it’s worn out? Way too many steps.
Even with a splinter guard in good condition you still need to calibrate the parallel guides. Replacing the splinter guard is definitely more work than this method. Heck, the video isn’t even 9 mins long and that’s while he’s teaching his viewers.
I just got the my parallel guide system. But was very disappointed when I
discovered that one of the rails had a different color of blue than the
other 5. Has any one experinced the same?? I also got the MTR-18,
GRS-16 PE og GRS-16, they are the same blue color as the one of the
rails.
Paint them all into "Woodpeckers Red" ;)
I have nowhere near your trust in tape measures. I would rather just use the original TSO calibration method with a combination ruler (or better yet, a fixed one with a known 12"/30cm stickout or so), but with the little twist that like you do, make a cut, and reference the actual cut wood, not the splinter guard.
Fair enough!
Just buy a new rail!