One of the cleanest and clearest instructional videos I've found. You give great step by step explanations, of what your doing, without going over board and becoming tedious and you have the perfect voice and tone. As to your question about narration or subtitles, stay with narration.
***** Yes, I like the narration; subtitles don't give enough details. they also distract from what your doing. I have seen almost all your videos and I truley emjoy them. May I ask, where are you from, I can't quite place the accent?
Gregory Lovvorn Having lived there for four years, I can easily place this as a Bristolian: from Bristol in the South-West of England. Heavily influenced by the wider, traditionally rural area of the SW. In fact, I hear the slightly softer 'edges' in this gentleman's accent that's more indicative of the rural region around Bristol than the city itself, but wouldn't be surprised if he was born and bred in Bristol.
I am really starting to enjoy your smithing videos. They're not up-front, nor do they make me feel like I'm dumb.... they're nice and humble and relaxed. Starting to be such a joy to watch. :)
+Sitric Brave Thats the reason i started filming them, i used to watch others that made me feel like an idiot and were very hard to understand so i had to start making easy to use vids with good info to at least stop some of the misinformation being taught on here. Thank you for the kind words.
I was really impressed with this video. Thank you for sharing. The way you didn't seem hurried or rushed and took your time to explain the details was extremely helpful.
Thank you! I dont rush things anymore, i used to but i dont see the point, if a jobs worth doing, its worth doing well. Im just trying to get as much info out there as i possibly can in the time i have which is not that easy. Thanks again Lazysmith, really appreciate it.
Excellent video! Thanks, Nathan for posting this! I'm disabled with a bone/cartilage disease that leaves me with little strength in my hands, arms and elbows, so, this will take me a long time to make and LOTS of heats but, I WILL get it done! I don't normally work larger steel because of the disability and he length of time it takes me to do the larger stuff but, I keep at it even if I'm doing smaller projects and it keeps me as in shape as I'm going to get and still allows me to bang steel! Thanks so much for the videos you make! They are very helpful for the small stuff, too!
I just found your channel, and I loved it. The "BEST" explanations of any one I've watched so far. When I watch other Blacksmith's I always want to know "why" did he do that, or what's the purpose of doing it that way? You were spot on with you narrations, and when I "I wonder why he did that" came up in my mind, you answered it. Great job young man, I'm going to go now and watch another one.
Thank you so much! This has to be one of the best blacksmithing tutorials I've ever seen. I really like how you show the whole process all the way through to fitting the handle and wedging. The commentary is detailed and well presented. I hope that you'll continue to show how to forge other tools in this same way in the future.
tosborn56 You are more than welcome, thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Plenty more in the pipeline of videos to come like this just struggling with time at the moment to film but should have a few more up by the new year and a christmas special with something a little different. Thanks for watching and commenting. all the best!!
Thank you very much for also including the handling of the tool. Too many videos leave that out, and this is the first time I've seen the process actually explained.
Psychentist Cheers! Its not the best but it sure does the job for what i need. this way wouldnt work for hammer handles but for struck tools it works well.
Brilliant demo and talk through. I really like the way you have presented this, easy watching and listening. Will definitely be watching out for more of your tutorials. Please keep up the good work.
I've subbed. I really enjoy your craftsmanship. I enjoy listening to you teach...your tone and accent are very becoming of a good teacher. your thoughts and actions as you craft are very intentional, and your explanations are clear. Thank you, Brother.
Thanks for the video. Very enjoyable to watch and cool accent for narrative. I do some smithing but love watching others even more so. It gives more ideas of tools I could make and alternatives for some I have. Great video :)
Excellent video! Very relaxing to watch! Thank you for your effort of making it and I am looking forward to the next one in this series! All the best, Matej Slovakia
I've been watching many of your videos. I like the fact that you use mainly hand tools. Many other smiths post videos and make everything look so easy because of power hammers big enough to crush a Volkswagen! I also like the fact that you point out minute details as you go. Keep narrating! I spend too much time trying to read what is going on instead of just watching. Awesome job. Keep up the good work.
phil ward Thanks Phil, Im glad you like them so thank you for watching!!As I work alone I have to do everything this way and also noticed what you have, that's why I started making these so that others can get the motivation and the realisation that you don't need a lot of kit to get the job done, just a few basic hand tools and knowledge of process anything is possible. I just talk through it the way I would teach if you were here with me. If I can teach one thing to a new viewer that's my goal reached, just giving back what I can to the craft and new beginners.Thanks againNathan
I have severe hearing issues so to listen to your explanation of what's going on is great... I would be un able to watch the show if it was shop noise,, But man do I love the sound of a shop working :) Peace
Tin Man Thats great that its easy to listen to, makes it worthwhile. Thats the problem, getting the sound just right doesnt always work out, love the shop noise myself but not the type that blows the speakers hence doing it this way. Cheers Tin man
Very informative video, and I especially thank you for taking the time to show and explain the handle/wedge work. One question....what was that huge crash towards the end of the video?!? I nearly jumped out of my chair!!
You are more than welcome James, if i cant find a video on a subject then i just cover it myself, i always wanted to know how to do it but could never find a video. Haha sorry about that, i was supposed to edit that out, it was my dog taking her blanket away which was wrapped around a bar stool in turn pulling the stool over making the crash. Thanks for watching James. All the best!!
sir, thank you for making these videos. Im a beginner blacksmith, but I've been a welder by trade for over 40 years. you make it very easy to understand, and I don't want to loose your teachings. is there another way to get your information?
I'm picking up my first anvil in a couple days. Going to build myself a little brake drum coal forge and start from scratch. I'm looking forward to making lots of mistakes :-)
madwilliamflint Thats how we grow as smiths. you need to make mistakes as sometimes the best techniques and ideas come from making mistakes. let me know how you get on and good luck my friend! Enjoy!
Hey thanks o7 I'm picking it up tomorrow (weather permitting.) I'm a little concerned about building my own forge as I'd never done anything like that. I've done some light machining and wood working, so I SHOULD be okay.
i dont mate, all it is is a round taper like how a round punch is made then flattened on one side to make an oval. not heat treated but made from tough stuff. I think it was an axle .
Stephen Balogh Thanks, i use it for cutting hot metal as you would a chisel. mainly for bigger work where it is easier to have the tool on a handle rather than subjecting the hands to the close quarters of the hot steel. this means i can take my time and get the cut correct rather than trying to rush while the hands are burning. Hope this helps explain a little better.
Another lovely video Nathan, am i right in saying you hardened and tempered it all in one heat? Cooling in oil when cherry red and letting the heat above soak in to temper?
Chestnut Forge Yes thats correct. not necessarily cherry red but whatever the critical temperature for that particular steel which is just above cherry red and non magnetic state. I havent forgotten about the tongs buddy, just been super busy in the shop lately so havent got round to having a play yet but hopefully will get the video up in the new year.
lifeisbeautifulbysix It is off of a huge lorry im sure its from a tipper lorry. i shall put a picture on my google+ page if you want to check it out later.
I can tell You thay You got everything perfectly right about that metal wedge. I worked on a Axe factory some years ago and we also did that exactly the same way as You did (except for putting a small amont of wood glue to the wooden wedge, but i don´t think that´s realy nessesary.).
+Sheep Ewe Thats good to know, and an awesome tip with the glue on the wedge, i usually just oil it now but i can see the advantage of the glue. Thank you!
***** It´s not critical the same way as in an axe in a hot set tool (in fact i think it´s only a good idea not fix the handle too rigidly on them) so i think there will be no problem in that case. Wery good work.
Leaf spring was a good idea because it will hold an edge, but the heating and cooling repeated during use will cause it to fracture over time. That's why H13 steel is the best for this, it hold up well, and doesn't get brittle.
ThePeriodicTableOfGaming Toad I know what you mean, but it was what i had to hand at the time. the next lot of hot work tools i will be making will be made from H13 its just getting hold of it for a tidy price. Cheers!
hi i think your video on how to make a hot set chisel is very good i have started to make one out of a sqare piece of mild steel about the same lenth as to what you use ive posted pics of where im at on my fb page and i may post the pics on my you tube page also i dont have a camera set up to show the step by step stuff but its along the lines to how you made your hot set chisle.
Just checked it out on your page, well done man! Looking good so far! all i can advise is next time when your punching the eye make sure you start it off slow and get it centered before actually punching it, it will make your life a lot easier along the way. Other than that looking good mate! will be good to see the final piece. If you want to skip the forging of the taper then just get a cutting disc and cut your tapers in. Mild steel will be easy enough to cut but then again forging a taper on that piece will help you a lot and give you some great practice!! Keep it hot man and keep up the good work!!! Nath Oo
i marked it how you marked your peice and just took it nice and handy with the punching/drifting i know one side was slighty off by a fraction but it turned out well, thank you for your advice Nath Oo i will carry on and do the tapering by hand and work each side equally and post the finnished product on my fb page
Nice video, thanks for posting. I was curious about your stock. You said it was a leaf spring. Is it from an industrial machine? It looks pretty hefty. I'm always on the lookout for good available metal to work.
HWPcville Thank you, its from a tipper lorry, the big articulated ones, they are huge on them and make some good tools if treated correctly. ask about at any garage that works on transport vehicles, im sure they would have some waiting to go to scrap.
Thanks for your videos! They are very informative. I was curious where you get your steel. Do you have access to a supplier or do you just scavenge? The square leaf spring doesn't look like anything I've seen before. In another video (making a hot cut) you use a piece of Ford axel. Do you go to a scrap yard? Any insight would be appreciated.
Harry wilkinson Hi Harry, its from a tipper articulated lorry the leaf springs that come with them. But from now on I shall be buying know steel alloys with data sheets so I can heat treat correctly for longevity of the tool, its all a bit hit and miss with these scrap steels.Hope this helps a little.
Thanks, thats helpful. I'm just starting out and obviously im going to be practising on scrap to start with. No point making a hash of decent steel! Leaf springs seem pretty common so will get my hands on some. Cheers
Harry wilkinson scrap is great to practice on. take round to square, different points square to round etc, practice basics and you will advance a lot quicker than just making projects.
+Rodney zufelt Thank you. The reason for the chain is to stop the high pitched ring, not to quieten the sound all together, but only to take that ear piercing ring away from it. the vibration has more surface area to travel around and through the chain in turn deadening it by the time it can ring out.
Thank you. There are a few things that stop the noise being too loud, I use an external microphone with a sound deadening option to cut out background noise and i also edit the sound before uploading so it is at a nice level for the viewer and also i have a chain wrapped around the anvil tightly to stop the noise travelling too far but most of all and what i think is the most important bit is my anvil sits on wood on a metal frame but it is wedged in with softwood around the base to hold it in place, without these you would be deaf listening to my vids, like most other vids i watch on here, i was always reaching for the volume button something i took into consideration before filming and sharing what i do as a craft. Thank you again.
thanks for the tutorial man. great video. just one question, where did you find that leaf spring? the thickest one i have is like 10 mm thickness and they are not square. they are more flat because they come from a small truck.
cheers man, i was given it from a friend, they came off of an artic lorry, a tipper lorry its from, it goes from 13mm on the end to 50mm in the centre, just cut it down and used what i needed. Thanks again Andreas.
Davy Kumar Hi Davy, its from a big lorry leaf spring, from a tipper artic lorry. You can get them from any big wagon mechanic, they usually just throw them out but im sure they would rather it be used to make beautyfull tools. But I would advise buying new steel, that has a data sheet for heat treatment of that particular steel type. Hope this helps a little.
Nice job m8y question you say it was made from a leaf spring ! Had you heated it and squared it into a square block from a flat spring first ? If not , where did you get that square chunk from initially cheers , ant from Wales
+Gerry Newton If using a known steel then always heat treat according to the manufacturers recommended heat treatment method. that will be available online or from the retailer. I will be doing a series on tool making soon but if you check out Alec Steele on UA-cam you will find a few good videos on how he makes them.
***** No, but the guy teaching me did! I copped it when you were explaining to move the drift around the hardie hole so as to avoid any bulging around the eye. I prefer your narration to the text, text can be distracting.
Thats cool! when i was there 08-09 i did the first years course the basics, they never taught us this on the course i was on but the advanced classes they did. I must have picked it up along the way somewhere thats cool with the feedback Keith i appreciate that thanks a lot.
+Gunslinger15 for a Hardie cut off tool, i wouldnt bother with temper as it is stationary on the anvil, BUT a struck tool like the hot set needs tempering as it will be struck with a sledge hammer so needs to be softened after hardening via tempering otherwise it will shatter.
I think you said you used a section of leaf spring steel for this. QUESTION: what would be the best type of steel to use for Hot Sets, punches and such tools? Very-High-Carbon Tool steel, Spring steel or Med-Carbon steel, or some other type of steel?
Corey Shier What would be best is an alloy called H13, its called a red hot alloy steel as it keeps its shape even if coloured and can quench no problem if it gets a little too warm without affecting the edge or lifetime of the tool. Hope this helps
+Louis Sturt I dont enjoy using the horn on this anvil as its not tied down so if i were to use the horn it would bounce the heel up and not be efficient. Plus drawing out on the horn requires a lot more tidying up as you go rather than clean drawing out as i do. Wrists are fine as long as the heat is correct and the hammer is held correctly
NEVER put the steel wedge in cross grain EVER ! Putting the metal wedge in cross grain splits the handle/haft inside the hole as you can see when he is finished. That cross split crack can travel down through the handle/haft and or loosen the tool head. I've seen it happen. Always split the wood with the grain. You just defeated the whole purpose of shaping the handle and cutting the wedge notch with the grain. But it still came out really nice. Good job
Well I feel dumb..lol I didn't realize I had basically asked the same question a year ago and didn't realize you had answered. Please forgive my oversight.
The handles of hot set tools shouldn't be a tight fit. They should be loose to minimize the impact of your hammer blows traveling up your arm. This is especially important when a miss strike happens.
+Filip Falk comes down to preference, i like mine tight as i dont tend to make a habit of missing, also i enjoy knowing that i dont have to continually bang it on the anvil to re tighten a loose head every few blows. It works fine for me. Also if you are getting impact on the arm you are holding it too tight. something i dont do.
gtfo then nobody cares. I live in the United States, born and raised, and it is extremely easy to use the metric system. It is also just as easy to use the decimal system. The only reason it is easy for you to use inches is because it's the only thing you ever learned and you don't want to put forth any effort to find out there's an easier system to use. Bye Felicia!
+kieran james I use a gas forge from a company here in the Uk called SWAN forges, I really wouldnt recommend anything other than some kind of forge Be it solid fuel or gas. I wouldnt recommend what i presume would be a multifuel stove, It will wreck the stove and may be too dangerous
look up primitive forges, all a forge needs is, air, fuel and fire, it can be done so simply with a few bricks, an air source and some clay. Thats old skool. Its a dangerous craft that needs to be taken with caution every step of the way.
One of the cleanest and clearest instructional videos I've found. You give great step by step explanations, of what your doing, without going over board and becoming tedious and you have the perfect voice and tone.
As to your question about narration or subtitles, stay with narration.
Gregory Lovvorn Thanks for the compliment, i think i will stay with the narration for the instructional vids.
***** Yes, I like the narration; subtitles don't give enough details. they also distract from what your doing. I have seen almost all your videos and I truley emjoy them.
May I ask, where are you from, I can't quite place the accent?
Gregory Lovvorn Having lived there for four years, I can easily place this as a Bristolian: from Bristol in the South-West of England. Heavily influenced by the wider, traditionally rural area of the SW. In fact, I hear the slightly softer 'edges' in this gentleman's accent that's more indicative of the rural region around Bristol than the city itself, but wouldn't be surprised if he was born and bred in Bristol.
@@brabhamfreaman166 You got it! Just on the edge of the city of bristol.
I am really starting to enjoy your smithing videos. They're not up-front, nor do they make me feel like I'm dumb.... they're nice and humble and relaxed. Starting to be such a joy to watch. :)
+Sitric Brave Thats the reason i started filming them, i used to watch others that made me feel like an idiot and were very hard to understand so i had to start making easy to use vids with good info to at least stop some of the misinformation being taught on here. Thank you for the kind words.
Agreed 100%. The video are so low key they are easy to watch yet also informative.
I was really impressed with this video. Thank you for sharing. The way you didn't seem hurried or rushed and took your time to explain the details was extremely helpful.
Thank you! I dont rush things anymore, i used to but i dont see the point, if a jobs worth doing, its worth doing well. Im just trying to get as much info out there as i possibly can in the time i have which is not that easy.
Thanks again Lazysmith, really appreciate it.
It is all so well filmed. The camera angles are totally a teaching tool unto themselves. What a wonderful instructor.
Excellent video! Thanks, Nathan for posting this! I'm disabled with a bone/cartilage disease that leaves me with little strength in my hands, arms and elbows, so, this will take me a long time to make and LOTS of heats but, I WILL get it done! I don't normally work larger steel because of the disability and he length of time it takes me to do the larger stuff but, I keep at it even if I'm doing smaller projects and it keeps me as in shape as I'm going to get and still allows me to bang steel!
Thanks so much for the videos you make! They are very helpful for the small stuff, too!
I just found your channel, and I loved it. The "BEST" explanations of any one I've watched so far. When I watch other Blacksmith's I always want to know "why" did he do that, or what's the purpose of doing it that way? You were spot on with you narrations, and when I "I wonder why he did that" came up in my mind, you answered it. Great job young man, I'm going to go now and watch another one.
Thank you so much! This has to be one of the best blacksmithing tutorials I've ever seen. I really like how you show the whole process all the way through to fitting the handle and wedging. The commentary is detailed and well presented. I hope that you'll continue to show how to forge other tools in this same way in the future.
tosborn56 You are more than welcome, thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Plenty more in the pipeline of videos to come like this just struggling with time at the moment to film but should have a few more up by the new year and a christmas special with something a little different. Thanks for watching and commenting. all the best!!
Thank you very much for also including the handling of the tool. Too many videos leave that out, and this is the first time I've seen the process actually explained.
Psychentist Cheers! Its not the best but it sure does the job for what i need. this way wouldnt work for hammer handles but for struck tools it works well.
Great video, especially for those of us that have no power hammers and tools!! Thanks so much!! Great detailed instructor!!
Excellent video with perfect narration on each heat. You sir have a gift for the trade and teaching it.
Henry Raynald Thanks Henry, thats the plan, i would love to teach when i get more knowledgable in this craft, im still just a beginner at the moment
Very nice work mate, and a nice, no-frills production. Thank you.
Great work. You are patient, skilled and very talented. Keep up the great work.
+David Greene Thank you sir!
After 4 years of smithing and watching smithing videos I’ve just now come across your videos?! WTH?! Nice work!
Brilliant demo and talk through. I really like the way you have presented this, easy watching and listening. Will definitely be watching out for more of your tutorials. Please keep up the good work.
P. Mathias Thank you, should have a few more up very soon
I've subbed. I really enjoy your craftsmanship. I enjoy listening to you teach...your tone and accent are very becoming of a good teacher. your thoughts and actions as you craft are very intentional, and your explanations are clear. Thank you, Brother.
Thank you for sharing this great video. Very well done as always.
Excellent detail and craftsmanship
Like your videos and style. Learning a lot and trying to get more into the craft.
Thanks.
Excellent video, you are a true craftsman!
Jeff Grier Thanks Jeff. just a beginner really, so much to learn within this craft but thats the beauty of it. Learn every day
One of the Best instructions , that I have seen ! Great Job, loved watching you work , GREAT LOOKING TOOL YOU MADE,
thank you Larry, have you seen the newer vids i have, did a proper walkthrough with them, if you enjoy this im sure you will love the newer format.
Thanks for the video. Very enjoyable to watch and cool accent for narrative. I do some smithing but love watching others even more so. It gives more ideas of tools I could make and alternatives for some I have. Great video :)
Great vid, not the first time I've watched and definitely not the last thanks for sharing your knowledge
hasdrubal121 Your welcome, thanks for watching!
wow that anvil just ring !!!! nice work !!!
+pzkw108 thank you
Nathan that's a big leaf spring. Good job there matey.
Excellent video! Very relaxing to watch! Thank you for your effort of making it and I am looking forward to the next one in this series!
All the best,
Matej
Slovakia
SKW Bushcraft Thank you Matej. You are welcome! should be a few more before the new year is here.
I've been watching many of your videos. I like the fact that you use mainly hand tools. Many other smiths post videos and make everything look so easy because of power hammers big enough to crush a Volkswagen! I also like the fact that you point out minute details as you go. Keep narrating! I spend too much time trying to read what is going on instead of just watching. Awesome job. Keep up the good work.
phil ward Thanks Phil, Im glad you like them so thank you for watching!!As I work alone I have to do everything this way and also noticed what you have, that's why I started making these so that others can get the motivation and the realisation that you don't need a lot of kit to get the job done, just a few basic hand tools and knowledge of process anything is possible. I just talk through it the way I would teach if you were here with me. If I can teach one thing to a new viewer that's my goal reached, just giving back what I can to the craft and new beginners.Thanks againNathan
Good stuff! The pacing it really great, it's easy to keep up with, and properly explained. I'm looking forward to making some of my own tools.
That was some brilliant work there.
Jeremiah Huson Thank you
thanks for your quick answer and revealing your tricks Happy New Year Greetings from the Island of Malta
thats one hell of a leaf spring
Well done!! Thanks!!!
A nice tool, very well explained, thank you.
great video and narration!
Cheers Will!
Sub'd.
+Green Beetle Cheers dude! Subbed to you a while ago, i like the style you have.
good video brother!! thanks for sharing!!!
Nicely done, very informative!
Awesome work!
I have severe hearing issues so to listen to your explanation of what's going on is great... I would be un able to watch the show if it was shop noise,, But man do I love the sound of a shop working :) Peace
Tin Man Thats great that its easy to listen to, makes it worthwhile.
Thats the problem, getting the sound just right doesnt always work out, love the shop noise myself but not the type that blows the speakers hence doing it this way.
Cheers Tin man
Very informative video, and I especially thank you for taking the time to show and explain the handle/wedge work. One question....what was that huge crash towards the end of the video?!? I nearly jumped out of my chair!!
You are more than welcome James, if i cant find a video on a subject then i just cover it myself, i always wanted to know how to do it but could never find a video. Haha sorry about that, i was supposed to edit that out, it was my dog taking her blanket away which was wrapped around a bar stool in turn pulling the stool over making the crash. Thanks for watching James. All the best!!
Great video.
sir,
thank you for making these videos. Im a beginner blacksmith, but I've been a welder by trade for over 40 years. you make it very easy to understand, and I don't want to loose your teachings. is there another way to get your information?
Fantastic and thanks for sharing your video.
Welcome jim!
You give detail which I need to know. Thanks great video!
+John Chivington As long as i can teach something to somebody thats all that i aim for, Thanks for watching!
great video. Thanks so much. keep them comming!
Thank you!
Hey it's a very nice work.
👍
Uwe Roh Thank you
I'm picking up my first anvil in a couple days. Going to build myself a little brake drum coal forge and start from scratch. I'm looking forward to making lots of mistakes :-)
madwilliamflint Thats how we grow as smiths. you need to make mistakes as sometimes the best techniques and ideas come from making mistakes. let me know how you get on and good luck my friend! Enjoy!
Hey thanks o7 I'm picking it up tomorrow (weather permitting.) I'm a little concerned about building my own forge as I'd never done anything like that. I've done some light machining and wood working, so I SHOULD be okay.
madwilliamflint Don't forget to also pick up some medicine for burns.. and cuts.. Always good to be prepared completely. Good luck.
Dam fine job!
Great video thanks for posting!
Thanks Ron
Well done sir!
Subscribed!
Albert
Albert Rasch Thank you Albert.
love this video thnx good job and well done
+Gab Coral Thank you!
Good job !!!!
+Mike Townsend Cheers Mike!
thank you for sharing good video
You are welcome, Thank you!
So Newtons Law seems to apply Nathan ? Thanks for the video I found it very usefull, Toby
have you a video on making the drift you are using
i dont mate, all it is is a round taper like how a round punch is made then flattened on one side to make an oval. not heat treated but made from tough stuff. I think it was an axle .
Nice work....what do you use it for?
Stephen Balogh Thanks, i use it for cutting hot metal as you would a chisel. mainly for bigger work where it is easier to have the tool on a handle rather than subjecting the hands to the close quarters of the hot steel. this means i can take my time and get the cut correct rather than trying to rush while the hands are burning. Hope this helps explain a little better.
Parabéns, ótimo vídeo.
Great video, thanks! Can you tell me what the size of the punch is that you use for driftig the eye?
Not in the workshop at the mo but when i get down there i shall have a look and let you know.
Another lovely video Nathan, am i right in saying you hardened and tempered it all in one heat? Cooling in oil when cherry red and letting the heat above soak in to temper?
Chestnut Forge Yes thats correct. not necessarily cherry red but whatever the critical temperature for that particular steel which is just above cherry red and non magnetic state. I havent forgotten about the tongs buddy, just been super busy in the shop lately so havent got round to having a play yet but hopefully will get the video up in the new year.
***** Thanks for the reply Nathan. I cant wait to see how you get on with the tongs. Have a great Christmas and chat to you in the new year :-)
Where did you find a piece of spring steal that thick
lifeisbeautifulbysix It is off of a huge lorry im sure its from a tipper lorry. i shall put a picture on my google+ page if you want to check it out later.
شكرا
thanks a lot
that was a helpful post
hadi Thank you Hadi, is it easy enough to follow? im guessing english is not your native language,Thank you again
***** yes it is , lm from Kuwait . Thank you sir .
Cool did you use tool steel for this? Or can you just use ordinary steel?
Thanks, nice video!
knives&stuff i used an old leaf spring from a big lorry, the better the steel the better the edge will hold. Thank you!
Cool i still have a leaf spring lying around
I can tell You thay You got everything perfectly right about that metal wedge.
I worked on a Axe factory some years ago and we also did that exactly the same way as You did (except for putting a small amont of wood glue to the wooden wedge, but i don´t think that´s realy nessesary.).
+Sheep Ewe Thats good to know, and an awesome tip with the glue on the wedge, i usually just oil it now but i can see the advantage of the glue. Thank you!
*****
It´s not critical the same way as in an axe in a hot set tool (in fact i think it´s only a good idea not fix the handle too rigidly on them) so i think there will be no problem in that case. Wery good work.
Leaf spring was a good idea because it will hold an edge, but the heating and cooling repeated during use will cause it to fracture over time. That's why H13 steel is the best for this, it hold up well, and doesn't get brittle.
ThePeriodicTableOfGaming Toad I know what you mean, but it was what i had to hand at the time. the next lot of hot work tools i will be making will be made from H13 its just getting hold of it for a tidy price.
Cheers!
hi i think your video on how to make a hot set chisel is very good i have started to make one out of a sqare piece of mild steel about the same lenth as to what you use ive posted pics of where im at on my fb page and i may post the pics on my you tube page also i dont have a camera set up to show the step by step stuff but its along the lines to how you made your hot set chisle.
Just checked it out on your page, well done man! Looking good so far! all i can advise is next time when your punching the eye make sure you start it off slow and get it centered before actually punching it, it will make your life a lot easier along the way. Other than that looking good mate! will be good to see the final piece. If you want to skip the forging of the taper then just get a cutting disc and cut your tapers in. Mild steel will be easy enough to cut but then again forging a taper on that piece will help you a lot and give you some great practice!! Keep it hot man and keep up the good work!!!
Nath Oo
i marked it how you marked your peice and just took it nice and handy with the punching/drifting i know one side was slighty off by a fraction but it turned out well, thank you for your advice Nath Oo i will carry on and do the tapering by hand and work each side equally and post the finnished product on my fb page
Nice video, thanks for posting. I was curious about your stock. You said it was a leaf spring. Is it from an industrial machine? It looks pretty hefty. I'm always on the lookout for good available metal to work.
HWPcville Thank you, its from a tipper lorry, the big articulated ones, they are huge on them and make some good tools if treated correctly. ask about at any garage that works on transport vehicles, im sure they would have some waiting to go to scrap.
Thanks for your videos! They are very informative. I was curious where you get your steel. Do you have access to a supplier or do you just scavenge? The square leaf spring doesn't look like anything I've seen before. In another video (making a hot cut) you use a piece of Ford axel. Do you go to a scrap yard? Any insight would be appreciated.
Nice video, could you tell me where you get your stock from?
Harry wilkinson Hi Harry, its from a tipper articulated lorry the leaf springs that come with them. But from now on I shall be buying know steel alloys with data sheets so I can heat treat correctly for longevity of the tool, its all a bit hit and miss with these scrap steels.Hope this helps a little.
Thanks, thats helpful. I'm just starting out and obviously im going to be practising on scrap to start with. No point making a hash of decent steel! Leaf springs seem pretty common so will get my hands on some. Cheers
Harry wilkinson scrap is great to practice on. take round to square, different points square to round etc, practice basics and you will advance a lot quicker than just making projects.
Great job! Very informative. I have noticed in a lot of the videos that you wrap chain around your anvils. What is the purpose of that?
+Rodney zufelt Thank you.
The reason for the chain is to stop the high pitched ring, not to quieten the sound all together, but only to take that ear piercing ring away from it. the vibration has more surface area to travel around and through the chain in turn deadening it by the time it can ring out.
Thanks for the answer.
Rodney zufelt
no worries
Hey, what steel is the drift made out of? Very nice work, me like.
+phogelbice Thank you, I used an axle from a van, just forged, annealed and normalised. No hardening or tempering.
very interesting video but howcome your anvil doesn't ring seems to have a silencer
Thank you. There are a few things that stop the noise being too loud, I use an external microphone with a sound deadening option to cut out background noise and i also edit the sound before uploading so it is at a nice level for the viewer and also i have a chain wrapped around the anvil tightly to stop the noise travelling too far but most of all and what i think is the most important bit is my anvil sits on wood on a metal frame but it is wedged in with softwood around the base to hold it in place, without these you would be deaf listening to my vids, like most other vids i watch on here, i was always reaching for the volume button something i took into consideration before filming and sharing what i do as a craft.
Thank you again.
thanks for the tutorial man. great video. just one question, where did you find that leaf spring? the thickest one i have is like 10 mm thickness and they are not square. they are more flat because they come from a small truck.
cheers man, i was given it from a friend, they came off of an artic lorry, a tipper lorry its from, it goes from 13mm on the end to 50mm in the centre, just cut it down and used what i needed. Thanks again Andreas.
Where did you get that metal
Davy Kumar Hi Davy, its from a big lorry leaf spring, from a tipper artic lorry. You can get them from any big wagon mechanic, they usually just throw them out but im sure they would rather it be used to make beautyfull tools. But I would advise buying new steel, that has a data sheet for heat treatment of that particular steel type. Hope this helps a little.
thanks for that man
Nice job m8y question you say it was made from a leaf spring ! Had you heated it and squared it into a square block from a flat spring first ? If not , where did you get that square chunk from initially cheers , ant from Wales
+anthony preston It was off of a lorry, the big ones but not sure, something like a scania size truck, absolutely massive in section.
do you think a railroad spike would work for this if i make the angle smaller? i have an abundance of spikes
Sam Martino No, but if you have a lot of spikes then make a lot of stock for yourself. round bar, square bar, flat bar, the list is endless.
Would a old Really thick file or A chunk of a old Broken chisel be of use to make this? Or is that steel inferior?
If i was to use 0-1 should you heat treat it still ....do you have any videos of making punchs and drifts or know of any? thank you!
+Gerry Newton If using a known steel then always heat treat according to the manufacturers recommended heat treatment method. that will be available online or from the retailer. I will be doing a series on tool making soon but if you check out Alec Steele on UA-cam you will find a few good videos on how he makes them.
+workingwithiron ok ill check back ty!!!
Thanks, great video, where did you learn blacksmithing, was it Hereford by any chance?
Thanks keith, it was indeed hereford. awesome tutors there. did you go there yourself?
***** No, but the guy teaching me did! I copped it when you were explaining to move the drift around the hardie hole so as to avoid any bulging around the eye. I prefer your narration to the text, text can be distracting.
Thats cool! when i was there 08-09 i did the first years course the basics, they never taught us this on the course i was on but the advanced classes they did. I must have picked it up along the way somewhere thats cool with the feedback Keith i appreciate that thanks a lot.
when you create your own tools for blacksmithing... do you harden and temper the tool in the end?
He mentioned hardening but said tempering would pointless in his hot cut video
+Gunslinger15 for a Hardie cut off tool, i wouldnt bother with temper as it is stationary on the anvil, BUT a struck tool like the hot set needs tempering as it will be struck with a sledge hammer so needs to be softened after hardening via tempering otherwise it will shatter.
+itsTHEFIREDOG Yes, after forging is finished i will then Anneal it, Normalise it, Harden it then Temper it in that order.
What kind of spring steel you used
Leaf spring from a huge Lorry.
Nice tool and a great video. All to many are poorly shot and narrated. Nice to see someone else swing a 6# a little.
cheers will, much appreciated.
How long does it take your forge to heat up that block of metal (the first time)? It appears to be a yellow temp.
I think you said you used a section of leaf spring steel for this.
QUESTION: what would be the best type of steel to use for Hot Sets, punches and such tools? Very-High-Carbon Tool steel, Spring steel or Med-Carbon steel, or some other type of steel?
Corey Shier What would be best is an alloy called H13, its called a red hot alloy steel as it keeps its shape even if coloured and can quench no problem if it gets a little too warm without affecting the edge or lifetime of the tool.
Hope this helps
That was fucking awesome.....! Very nice ..!
skullcollector29 Haha glad you enjoyed it! Cheers for watching
do you make them to sell? if so how much?
Not yet but after September 2017 i shall be starting to sale my work. Sorry.
I once forgot to cool my tool, and it widened inside my hammer I was making and I had to cut it off
have you even thought about drawing out on the horn? would save your wrist!!
+Louis Sturt I dont enjoy using the horn on this anvil as its not tied down so if i were to use the horn it would bounce the heel up and not be efficient. Plus drawing out on the horn requires a lot more tidying up as you go rather than clean drawing out as i do. Wrists are fine as long as the heat is correct and the hammer is held correctly
NEVER put the steel wedge in cross grain EVER ! Putting the metal wedge in cross grain splits the handle/haft inside the hole as you can see when he is finished. That cross split crack can travel down through the handle/haft and or loosen the tool head. I've seen it happen. Always split the wood with the grain. You just defeated the whole purpose of shaping the handle and cutting the wedge notch with the grain. But it still came out really nice. Good job
Hey man to keep ur wedge from splitting put a peace of wood on it that is a little bigger and hit that wood not the wedge
+Aden Grubb Great tip!
why is your hammer handle wrapped in wire?
Alejandro Mier its not wrapped in wire, just insulating tape as the handle is broken into about 3 pieces.
ooh ok, great video by the way!
Alejandro Mier Cheers man!
cheers!
Well I feel dumb..lol I didn't realize I had basically asked the same question a year ago and didn't realize you had answered. Please forgive my oversight.
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Very interesting, but I sure do hate to see a guy drag a file backwards.
+lebomm johnson As do i, but sometimes old habits re surface, i dont apply pressure on the backwards stroke if thats any consolation ;)
Get over it, it’s hot rasping!
not too shabbie...
When fitting summat to a hole, make Eve first.
Обзор горна в студию:)
The handles of hot set tools shouldn't be a tight fit. They should be loose to minimize the impact of your hammer blows traveling up your arm. This is especially important when a miss strike happens.
+Filip Falk comes down to preference, i like mine tight as i dont tend to make a habit of missing, also i enjoy knowing that i dont have to continually bang it on the anvil to re tighten a loose head every few blows. It works fine for me. Also if you are getting impact on the arm you are holding it too tight. something i dont do.
I deal in inches don't like mm or cm. so I am gone to another place
gtfo then nobody cares. I live in the United States, born and raised, and it is extremely easy to use the metric system. It is also just as easy to use the decimal system. The only reason it is easy for you to use inches is because it's the only thing you ever learned and you don't want to put forth any effort to find out there's an easier system to use. Bye Felicia!
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what burner are u using ? would a coal stove do ?
+kieran james I use a gas forge from a company here in the Uk called SWAN forges, I really wouldnt recommend anything other than some kind of forge Be it solid fuel or gas. I wouldnt recommend what i presume would be a multifuel stove, It will wreck the stove and may be too dangerous
i know but i am bone idle and want to do it old school. but i think i may try gas
look up primitive forges, all a forge needs is, air, fuel and fire, it can be done so simply with a few bricks, an air source and some clay. Thats old skool. Its a dangerous craft that needs to be taken with caution every step of the way.