What’s the difference between mixing your film with d76 at Full Strength and Dilution 1:1? Of course the length of time is a difference but what difference does it make to your film if there is anything?
Thank you for your tutorial on how to use the D-67, you helper me a lot, because I want to learn shooting with a pushed b&w tri-x for my photo class and just learned that D-67 is a good developer for that type of film. I hope to learn from you which fixer is the best to go with this developer 🙏 I remember my dad used to work in the dark room in the late 50s, and that there was always a chemical smell in the room. I did not like it back then (l was only 6) but now i am learning how to shoot analog & develop my films ☺️😷.
Hello there my man. If you want to experiment with pushed film a great developer to use is Ilford DD-X. This is a great option especially to push 4000iso film like Tri-X. Ilford rapid fixer works well with both.
I bought a 1 gallon package of D-76 powder. Do you have any experience of using 1/4 of it to make a quart of developer? How well does the powder stand up to being resealed and stored for future mixing and use?
I have read everywhere not to do that (from Kodak or similar) but then a ton of people do it and dont notice any issues. So I guess its a polarizing topic. I say, mix the heck inside the bag then proceed to divide and test.
Thank you very easy, but in the powder D76 envelope it is written to mix it with 1 gallon (3.8 liters). Can you explain please why you mixed it with only 1 liter?
Nicos Photography Show acabo de recibir mis químicos Kodak d76 , stop bath ultrafine ( no conseguí de Kodak) y el fijador es Kodak también, voy a empezar con el film Xtreme 100 y 400 de ultrafine también , es el más barato aquí en USA , alguna sugerencia con respecto a esta marca en particular , si los haz utilizado ..desde ya muchas gracias 🙏🏼
Hi! How many rolls can you develope with the stock solution? and the compensation times for each extra roll? ( I've neved used other than Rodinal, Tetenal Ultrafin or HC110 ) Thanks for all your support!!
Depends on what Im looking for. HC-110 gives me a contrast I like better to print most times. D76 is a little smoother in tones if you want more tones.
Brain broke, mixed at 58F instead of C. The stirring took a while but it was eventually clear. Does anyone know if I will be able to use the developer or should I dump it?
With all due respect, it is much better to pour the chemical and stir at the same time, by not letting the powder reach the bottom of the beaker it will dissolve much better and faster.
It seems not worth it. I pay 10$ for 0.5l rodinal that is for 10 liters of redy to use dev. Powder. I pay 15 $ for a small portion of powder that gives me 1 liter? Seems useless
Buy components and a scale. Put into small one time use and it lasts 6 months when it starts a slow deterioration, very slow. Partially full bottles are a disaster with unpredictable performance. Factory stuff is the same. Cost is 10% of Kodak.
I have done that for years, my issue was always the mixing and having to prepare it before. Now Im a HC-110 user, I get negatives that print easier to my taste.
How many rolls can you develop with d76 in stock?
I mean how many times can you use it before it dies.
I just got my bag of d76 today. Thank you so much for this. Can't wait to try it
Its so fun! Just follow along and you will have great results.
What’s the difference between mixing your film with d76 at Full Strength and Dilution 1:1? Of course the length of time is a difference but what difference does it make to your film if there is anything?
Nico, youre the man! man! cheers from denmark
Your videos are amazing!! I already developed 2 rolls of 120 kodak film 🎞 following them along!! Thank you 😊
Thank you for your tutorial on how to use the D-67, you helper me a lot, because I want to learn shooting with a pushed b&w tri-x for my photo class and just learned that D-67 is a good developer for that type of film. I hope to learn from you which fixer is the best to go with this developer 🙏 I remember my dad used to work in the dark room in the late 50s, and that there was always a chemical smell in the room. I did not like it back then (l was only 6) but now i am learning how to shoot analog & develop my films ☺️😷.
Hello there my man. If you want to experiment with pushed film a great developer to use is Ilford DD-X. This is a great option especially to push 4000iso film like Tri-X. Ilford rapid fixer works well with both.
I bought a 1 gallon package of D-76 powder. Do you have any experience of using 1/4 of it to make a quart of developer? How well does the powder stand up to being resealed and stored for future mixing and use?
I have read everywhere not to do that (from Kodak or similar) but then a ton of people do it and dont notice any issues. So I guess its a polarizing topic. I say, mix the heck inside the bag then proceed to divide and test.
@@NicosPhotographyShowsounds like the typical excuse from the vendor to get you to spend more $$
Water temp is crucial. Keep it up. Awesome content.
Thanks Edward, took a bit to cool it down after but not that hard.
Thanks for this video. Just mixed D76 👌🏻
Enjoy the developing!! Its so fun and satisfying.
Thank you very easy, but in the powder D76 envelope it is written to mix it with 1 gallon (3.8 liters). Can you explain please why you mixed it with only 1 liter?
Because they sell 1 gallon bags and 1 liter bags. This was a 1 liter bag.
El mejor vídeo explicativo que he visto acerca de revelado de film ..muchas gracias 🙏🏼 estoy esperando por mis químicos para empezar ..
Me alegro que haya sido de ayuda. Cualquier duda pregunta.
Nicos Photography Show acabo de recibir mis químicos Kodak d76 , stop bath ultrafine ( no conseguí de Kodak) y el fijador es Kodak también, voy a empezar con el film Xtreme 100 y 400 de ultrafine también , es el más barato aquí en USA , alguna sugerencia con respecto a esta marca en particular , si los haz utilizado ..desde ya muchas gracias 🙏🏼
thanks Nico! I was using stock d76 for 2 years without any problem, the same mix !
Hi Nicos! If you make a stock solution of the 3.8gallon bag, can you then split it over 4 x 1l bottles to increase the longevity?
Yes, mix it very well and then split into smaller containers.
Thank you so much, Nicos! This was really helpful.
how many times can i reuse it if i make 1 litre ? and how long do i need to develop if i develop kodachrome 40?
Is this only for black and white films or color films
Only for black and white film.
Is that the Stenopeika Hyper 4x5 MkII in the background?
Maybe.... ;)
Hi! How many rolls can you develope with the stock solution? and the compensation times for each extra roll? ( I've neved used other than Rodinal, Tetenal Ultrafin or HC110 ) Thanks for all your support!!
I do 12 rolls of 35mm in 1L stock D76 for years always great. Consistent results, no issues.
I will give this a try sounds interesting I’ve got some Kodak tri-X 400 120 Film to develop
is your go to for HP5 HC110 or D76
Depends on what Im looking for. HC-110 gives me a contrast I like better to print most times. D76 is a little smoother in tones if you want more tones.
This is very helpful, thank you
You are welcome!
Why should the water be at 50 degrees?
Brain broke, mixed at 58F instead of C. The stirring took a while but it was eventually clear. Does anyone know if I will be able to use the developer or should I dump it?
Did you use it? Or dump it?
With all due respect, it is much better to pour the chemical and stir at the same time, by not letting the powder reach the bottom of the beaker it will dissolve much better and faster.
Good to know.
Thanks a lot man
Would you recommend a 24 hour maturing process?
I did when I mixed it from scratch chemicals. But didn't feel the need with the commercial stuff.
It seems not worth it.
I pay 10$ for 0.5l rodinal that is for 10 liters of redy to use dev.
Powder. I pay 15 $ for a small portion of powder that gives me 1 liter? Seems useless
Buy components and a scale. Put into small one time use and it lasts 6 months when it starts a slow deterioration, very slow. Partially full bottles are a disaster with unpredictable performance. Factory stuff is the same. Cost is 10% of Kodak.
I have done that for years, my issue was always the mixing and having to prepare it before. Now Im a HC-110 user, I get negatives that print easier to my taste.
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