I just did this job on my 2001 Sienna. It is the hardest thing I ever replaced in my life. It took me over two hours to complete the job and at one point I thought I was not going to be able to get it back together. If you do this job on your Sienna, be ready for some complications.
I replaced these door handles in 45 minutes. If it took 2 hours you went through some unnecessary steps. This video shows taking the window mechanism apart and that is totally unnecessary!!!! You only need to remove two bolts from the handle to get it off once you unclip and disconnect the rods. One bolt is at the front of the handle inside the door panel and the other is at the edge under the black plastic cap.
I did my driver side handle in 20 minutes. Here's how: There is a step in the procedure telling you to remove the latch assembly. This is not necessary (at least in my case) you need to unsecure it so it moves freely, remove the front handle bolt, and the rear lock bolt, once you do that the handle should come out and give you enough room to remove the other lock bolt, and twist the clip on the linkage to remove it. Attach the linkage, the lock to the handle, there's is a slide clip on the back of the handle, line up in the hole, apply pressure, then knock handle back to secure it. Reinstall bolts, reverse the procedure.
After changing these 5 times I found the easiest way So Here is how you do it : Remove the window rail by unscrew one bolt (located outside at side of the door) Then you can put your hand inside and use your finger to unclip + unhook the yellow plastic rod. And then remove the 3 bolts (including the lock bolts) from inside. Then door handle will come out effortlessly. Put the new handle in first. (without connecting anything) Then everything in reverse (Screw the bolts & connect the rods etc)
Thank you for your comments. Most of these videos have left out the most important part of the job - inserting the door handle and making it simple to get the old plastic clips disconnected and new clips connected. It's impossible to get everything put back together without following your steps in order, and without removing the window rail.
I just broke and had to replace the driver's side handle on my girlfriend's Sienna, it was pure HELL. I'm pretty handy and have a lot of patience but what a joke this design is, all around.
I was thinking the same thing. Who the hell puts the port BESIDES the fucking handle you need to work on. Design is pure dog shit. I thought these were supposed to be easy to work on
What about the lock? It doesn't look like you could lock or unlock the new front door handle with a key. Can you not fix it in a way so the key would still work. I would never pay for that repair otherwise.
Video leaves out the critical steps. 1) The rail that guides the window comes out because it's an obstruction. It goes back with amazing ease. It's the first bolt in the video. 2) The trick is never shown: the mechanism has a catch that must be popped open. You want to do this BEFORE loosening up the mounting bolts. This weird plastic (nylon) is flamingly obvious in your new part. You'll want 'water pump' pliers to pull this off. ( Channelocks, etc. ) You must swing the nylon gidget up and away (easy) and then squeeze press the rod out of the nylon -- not so easy. If you've already removed the mounting bolts, this becomes a big headache. (It flops around.) 3) The bolts are 10mm and a snap -- especially if you have 1/4" drive tools. A wobble head (shown) is nice to have -- you do need to get inside the cavity. 4) Re-mounting the replacement goes mighty fast. Be prepared to clean the mounting location -- it attracts dirt. KEY TIP: to stop 10mm bolts from dropping out of your socket -- put a tiny wadding of tissue paper (Bounty) in the socket and then the bolt head. BTW, the window HAS TO BE in the up/ closed position. You'll find that the rail-guide bar naturally wants to go right back into the correct position... shockingly so. Getting the door handle armrest to come off is tricky. You need a full depth tool// long flat screwdriver. The (2) magic clips are deep in, near where you'd grip the door to close it, so prying elsewhere will just break things. (Very commonly done.) You'll want a tiny flat-head screw driver to get the plastic clip in the door-opening handle to release. Even after the obvious screw, you'll discover that the plastic is shaped to grab it. You pop it free by lifting up at the top/ pressing down at the bottom -- just a tad. Visit a junkyard if at all possible to see what I'm describing. Nothing in this video shows this detail. Getting this to 'pop' can drive you nuts. Once you visualize what's up -- it's a snap to release. Older machines = brittle plastic. Don't attempt any of this in the cold.
@@justine5804 Consider stuffing a towel, or two, into the bottom of the door cavity. Then, even if you manage to lose anything, the towel stops it from dropping all the way to where you can't just grab it with your fingers. The 'popping point' in the (interior) door handle is right at the pivot point of the lever. I do emphasize that you want a TINY flat-head screwdriver for this trick. It does the deed in mere seconds. You'll not find this detail in any manual -- any popular video, either. A dull knife could work, too. The clips that secure the lower perimeter are prone to breaking, so I'd have about four (4) spares in hand before tackling this project. Over the Internet each white clip is ~ 60 cents. At the parts store, imagine ~ 180 cents each. The colder the weather, the older the car, the more likely they will break instead of give.
@@davidhimmelsbach557 How did you remove the Yellow plastic clip thing from metal rod? That was the hardest part. I know i must unclip first and then unhook that plastic from metal rod. Unclip was easy but unhook was impossible without breaking that Yellow plastic.
@@justine5804 My favorite tool for this feat is Knipex 'water-pump' pliers. ( German clones of Channellocks.) Stage One: You press the (nylon) plastic away from the rod so that it now pivots on the last turn of the metal rod. Stage Two: you must press the rod-tip out of its hole. Other pliers might do the job, but I've found that the perfectly opposed faces of a 'water-pump' plier do the trick the best. Check out any Channellock pliers. THE thing that makes them 'trick' is that you can slide-adjust any plier such that jaw faces are nearly parallel where it counts, when it counts. That turns out to be HUGE. My experience is that a needle nose or any such like pliers is just not quite 'there.' It's a two-stage / press up/ press out operation. BTW, since you're in a door-panel cavity, the smaller type Channellocks/Knipex work even better. (7" versus 10") I used 10" Knipex -- because I own one. (Outside of autowork, the smaller tool does not get much use.) I prefer to leave the gizmo mounted with its bolts -- as I've never had any luck once the gizmo is floating free. I have seen other guys, on YT, with success, when the gizmo is totally floating free. How they've pulled this miracle off is never illustrated, video'd or described. But this is all my technique. I can't claim to be perfect -- and still be believed.
Have a 2003 - the door handles are the worse piece of crap that Toyota ever put on a vehicle. I would HIGHLY recommend that once you replace the sliding door handles, do NOT open using those handles - open one of the front doors and open from the inside - yeah, even with the new replacement handles, they are super easy to crack or break!
If you have to actually do this yourself, then try check this video instead ua-cam.com/video/8EjyFA4MzSM/v-deo.html Much more detail of the handle itself, locking mechanism.
hahaha, Yeah...feel the same...I had to reply because I'm working on this now and noticed your comment was recent. I've already broken one aftermarket handle.....If you figure it out...post a vid! even if it's an explanation....
I just did this job on my 2001 Sienna. It is the hardest thing I ever replaced in my life. It took me over two hours to complete the job and at one point I thought I was not going to be able to get it back together. If you do this job on your Sienna, be ready for some complications.
It's challenging but not that hard. Popping out the latch clip was most difficult for me.
2 hours shit that aint bad at all if you say 5-10 hours then you have a point. And yes I see how old your comment is but I’m petty like that 😂
I replaced these door handles in 45 minutes. If it took 2 hours you went through some unnecessary steps. This video shows taking the window mechanism apart and that is totally unnecessary!!!!
You only need to remove two bolts from the handle to get it off once you unclip and disconnect the rods. One bolt is at the front of the handle inside the door panel and the other is at the edge under the black plastic cap.
I did my driver side handle in 20 minutes. Here's how:
There is a step in the procedure telling you to remove the latch assembly. This is not necessary (at least in my case) you need to unsecure it so it moves freely, remove the front handle bolt, and the rear lock bolt, once you do that the handle should come out and give you enough room to remove the other lock bolt, and twist the clip on the linkage to remove it. Attach the linkage, the lock to the handle, there's is a slide clip on the back of the handle, line up in the hole, apply pressure, then knock handle back to secure it. Reinstall bolts, reverse the procedure.
Looks much easier and simpler than on my Odyssey! Going to change out my sister’s door handle tomorrow.
After changing these 5 times
I found the easiest way
So Here is how you do it :
Remove the window rail by unscrew one bolt (located outside at side of the door)
Then you can put your hand inside and use your finger to unclip + unhook the yellow plastic rod.
And then remove the 3 bolts (including the lock bolts)
from inside.
Then door handle will come out effortlessly.
Put the new handle in first.
(without connecting anything)
Then everything in reverse
(Screw the bolts & connect the rods etc)
Thank you for your comments. Most of these videos have left out the most important part of the job - inserting the door handle and making it simple to get the old plastic clips disconnected and new clips connected. It's impossible to get everything put back together without following your steps in order, and without removing the window rail.
When you remove the window rail, does it just go ln and line up correctly easily ? Thanks for your help
@@tomolszewski7699 Yes
I just broke and had to replace the driver's side handle on my girlfriend's Sienna, it was pure HELL. I'm pretty handy and have a lot of patience but what a joke this design is, all around.
I was thinking the same thing. Who the hell puts the port BESIDES the fucking handle you need to work on. Design is pure dog shit. I thought these were supposed to be easy to work on
Didnt show enough detail..
Thanks for this. I was stuck.
Thank you
Does the new handle come with a different key?
you can use the cylinder from the old handle. It's attached with a bolt that you'll need to remove during replacement anyway.
Thank you 🙏
You’re welcome 😊
There’s a screw attached to the door handle that is inside a small hole… what tool do I use to get it out? what’s it called?
Use 10 mm socket.
What about the lock? It doesn't look like you could lock or unlock the new front door handle with a key. Can you not fix it in a way so the key would still work. I would never pay for that repair otherwise.
Hi Mike Johnstone,
Yes the locking mechanism worked as well after the new handle was installed.
Thank you for your inquiry.
Video leaves out the critical steps.
1) The rail that guides the window comes out because it's an obstruction. It goes back with amazing ease. It's the first bolt in the video.
2) The trick is never shown: the mechanism has a catch that must be popped open. You want to do this BEFORE loosening up the mounting bolts. This weird plastic (nylon) is flamingly obvious in your new part.
You'll want 'water pump' pliers to pull this off. ( Channelocks, etc. ) You must swing the nylon gidget up and away (easy) and then squeeze press the rod out of the nylon -- not so easy. If you've already removed the mounting bolts, this becomes a big headache. (It flops around.)
3) The bolts are 10mm and a snap -- especially if you have 1/4" drive tools. A wobble head (shown) is nice to have -- you do need to get inside the cavity.
4) Re-mounting the replacement goes mighty fast. Be prepared to clean the mounting location -- it attracts dirt.
KEY TIP: to stop 10mm bolts from dropping out of your socket -- put a tiny wadding of tissue paper (Bounty) in the socket and then the bolt head.
BTW, the window HAS TO BE in the up/ closed position.
You'll find that the rail-guide bar naturally wants to go right back into the correct position... shockingly so.
Getting the door handle armrest to come off is tricky. You need a full depth tool// long flat screwdriver. The (2) magic clips are deep in, near where you'd grip the door to close it, so prying elsewhere will just break things. (Very commonly done.)
You'll want a tiny flat-head screw driver to get the plastic clip in the door-opening handle to release. Even after the obvious screw, you'll discover that the plastic is shaped to grab it. You pop it free by lifting up at the top/ pressing down at the bottom -- just a tad. Visit a junkyard if at all possible to see what I'm describing. Nothing in this video shows this detail. Getting this to 'pop' can drive you nuts. Once you visualize what's up -- it's a snap to release.
Older machines = brittle plastic. Don't attempt any of this in the cold.
Some Good points.
Especially adding paper towel pieces on socket to prevent bolts from falling.
@@justine5804 Consider stuffing a towel, or two, into the bottom of the door cavity. Then, even if you manage to lose anything, the towel stops it from dropping all the way to where you can't just grab it with your fingers.
The 'popping point' in the (interior) door handle is right at the pivot point of the lever. I do emphasize that you want a TINY flat-head screwdriver for this trick. It does the deed in mere seconds. You'll not find this detail in any manual -- any popular video, either. A dull knife could work, too.
The clips that secure the lower perimeter are prone to breaking, so I'd have about four (4) spares in hand before tackling this project. Over the Internet each white clip is ~ 60 cents. At the parts store, imagine ~ 180 cents each. The colder the weather, the older the car, the more likely they will break instead of give.
@@davidhimmelsbach557 How did you remove the Yellow plastic clip thing from metal rod?
That was the hardest part.
I know i must unclip first and then unhook that plastic from metal rod.
Unclip was easy but unhook was impossible without breaking that Yellow plastic.
@@justine5804 My favorite tool for this feat is Knipex 'water-pump' pliers. ( German clones of Channellocks.)
Stage One: You press the (nylon) plastic away from the rod so that it now pivots on the last turn of the metal rod.
Stage Two: you must press the rod-tip out of its hole.
Other pliers might do the job, but I've found that the perfectly opposed faces of a 'water-pump' plier do the trick the best.
Check out any Channellock pliers. THE thing that makes them 'trick' is that you can slide-adjust any plier such that jaw faces are nearly parallel where it counts, when it counts. That turns out to be HUGE.
My experience is that a needle nose or any such like pliers is just not quite 'there.'
It's a two-stage / press up/ press out operation.
BTW, since you're in a door-panel cavity, the smaller type Channellocks/Knipex work even better. (7" versus 10") I used 10" Knipex -- because I own one. (Outside of autowork, the smaller tool does not get much use.)
I prefer to leave the gizmo mounted with its bolts -- as I've never had any luck once the gizmo is floating free. I have seen other guys, on YT, with success, when the gizmo is totally floating free. How they've pulled this miracle off is never illustrated, video'd or described.
But this is all my technique. I can't claim to be perfect -- and still be believed.
How much was the replacement?
terrible no describing what your doing music why?
I see why my mechanic wants to charge 75 buck, but a previews fiend did it for 30 I am gonna call and search around,
Awesome, thanks for the great video! I subscribed. Please consider returning the favor for other Toyota Sienna fixes. Thanks!
Have a 2003 - the door handles are the worse piece of crap that Toyota ever put on a vehicle. I would HIGHLY recommend that once you replace the sliding door handles, do NOT open using those handles - open one of the front doors and open from the inside - yeah, even with the new replacement handles, they are super easy to crack or break!
How do you put back that last piece of rod before closing the plastic back..I was stuck..
For me the front handle was way harder than rear sliding handles.
If you have to actually do this yourself, then try check this video instead ua-cam.com/video/8EjyFA4MzSM/v-deo.html Much more detail of the handle itself, locking mechanism.
Not even a mention of linkages involved or difficulties of detaching and attaching same. That made this video a complete waste of my time.
hahaha, Yeah...feel the same...I had to reply because I'm working on this now and noticed your comment was recent. I've already broken one aftermarket handle.....If you figure it out...post a vid! even if it's an explanation....
are only asian people allowed to work on asian vehicles ?