Industrial sewing machine. Juki LU 1508 . Much Needed Maintenance!
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- Опубліковано 11 вер 2024
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Originally, I intended to do a detailed video series describing the process I use when doing a detailed cleaning on a sewing machine. By the end of day one, I had over four hours of painfully boring and slow footage. After a full day of editing, I decided to simplify the process and make something slightly more entertaining.
About the machine
I was on the hunt for a “project” walking foot sewing machine for some time when I came across this JUKI LU-1508N in the local area. There were some other options nearby ( juki 562/563’s, 1541’s, consew 206’s etc...) however it’s not every day that a 1508 comes up for sale; when they do, they don’t last long. I knew I had to get one. What I liked about this machine, was that it showed a fair amount of use but looked like it just needed a good cleaning and tune up. Upon further inspection, I discovered that there was a significant amount of surface rust on many of the internal components. I was told that the machine had been sitting for a while.
The video starts with me completely oiling the machine to loosen up as much corrosion and grime as possible. After letting it sit overnight, I dissembled and separated all the exterior components. Moving to the bobbin housing, I removed the bobbin, hook, and all of the associated components that showed signs of surface rust. In the process, I managed to knock the machine out of timing (I would discover this later). Next, each component got broken down to the last screw and thoroughly cleaned, inspected, and reassembled. The machine itself was then extensively wiped down and blown out using compressed air. Following that, each component was reinstalled. During the first test, I realized that there was a serious problem as I was continuously breaking or fraying thread at higher sew speeds. After hours of small adjustments, I decided to remove the hook and associated gearing and start from scratch. The time-consuming part was getting the gears to mesh perfectly. Due to camera setup, it was hard to get any useful footage so I left this out. Overall, I am very pleased with the end product. Internally, the machine is as close to new as it gets. I decided to keep the exterior as it came because I like the patina and story that each imperfection “tells”. I added a final coat of wax to clean and shine the machine before putting it to work. I hope you enjoy this video, and be sure to subscribe to my channel for more videos like this!
Wow! What a marathon! Well done 🤪
Yes it was! Thanks Erica!
ahh memories. i used this machine at work for 7yrs. miss the little mighty
Thanks Ruth. That’s a long time! So far it’s been a great machine!
I don't know anything about repairing machines, but I do know a great worker when I see one. This must have taken a couple days, without interruption.
Thanks for taking time to leave great feedback!! Yes it did take a good amount of time. Patience is a virtue when working on these machine!
My God. _"You're Good, Kid! Real Good!"_ Was very soothing and therapeutic to sit here and watch you work. Was surprised to hear you're not taking on many sewing machine repair jobs, and simply to do this maintenous stuff as a personal hobby. I'm a Professional Costumer in the L.A. Area and wondered who exactly are you referring the hundreds or so Folks to when they do ask for Sewing Machine Help? Most of the Sewing Repair Shops in our downtown Garment District only work on Industrial Table Top Single Stitch Units and completely balk at Home Use Sewing Machines (and usually tell us to simply buy a new one). I desperately need to get the motor mount bolts replaced on my mid '60's *ELNA* *SU* *62c.* I can't do it because she'll definetly need to be re-timed after all that which is way beyond hyper thought and 3 cups of coffee.
Awe thank you for the kind words! I know the frustrations of dealing with repair shops. They are good at taking your money and not fixing the issues. That’s why I started fixing my machines. I would drive two hours to have my dads machines repaired just to have the timing off or other parts broken when I got home. I’m in the NE and there are very few places the work on these
I really enjoyed the video. 👍👍
Thank you!!!! Getting the shop up to speed now and will hopefully be posting more soon.
I'm speechless. This is unbelievably good.
Thank you so much!!!:)
Lots of work put in here, I'm rebuilding a 1508NH right now and it is a rabbit hole. I've got a grinding sound right now and there is a lot of bunching going on underneath. I've opened up the throat plated and polished it to give enough room for the thread to pass through, cleaned and lubed the hook assembly and did about 50% of the takedown you have done in this video. Disassemble, clean, re-lube, re-assemble; still no luck and the grinding sound is still there with bunching underneath. There is a decided lack of maintenance resources out there for these machines aside from you and Alex Dyer. If you have any other resources that would help me I would appreciate it. Right now I have the Engineers and standard manual and am trying to follow those as much as possible.
Thanks and good job. I knew you actually did all this work when you got to the end and stated that there were 4+ hours of fiddly work after reassembly.
It’s a fun rabbit hole as long as you have the patience. The problem with these shops are the fact that the labor to do most repairs would cost more then the machine is worth. Just a simple timing issue alone can take hours. As far as researching these machines I’ll say this. They are almost all the same whether it’s a juki or singer consew etc…. If you can understand how one works you can understand them all.
@@undergroundupholstery 100% on similarity of machines, kinda like music theory. Once you understand the mechanisms and how they interact then the rest is groovy. Just gotta put in the time and learn the little fixes. If you're lucky enough to sit and watch a master at fixing these things you will pick up some tricks but for the most part its all messing around until you find the way (and hopefully you remember or recognize what you did to fix the problem). When my employees ask me how its so easy for me to diagnose or solve problems with machines, I just tell them I've screwed up the machine more times than they have and had to fight my way out.
You got lucky! Glad you have an eye for detail and a schematic, and even still you had timing issues to work out. My opinion, as a crusty, salty tailor, is you did far more than you needed to do. The polishing of the bobbin assembly was a nice touch and helps keep any burrs from lingering, but much of those parts never touch anything. Only a few places have tolerances and thread touching it. I just hope you got all your oil wicks in the right place and descending properly for gravity to do its thing, and the wick to wick where it needs wicking. lol! Glad it worked out well and didn't turn into a FAIL video with left over parts and poor stitches...
Yes thank you. A little patience and luck goes a long way with these things. Nothing beats knowing the ins and outs of your machine as I’m sure you know!!! Also the satisfaction (and savings) of working on your on equipment makes it worth it. I can say that this machine runs smoother now than it did before. Thanks for taking time to comment and I hope to get some new content posted soon.
@@undergroundupholstery No you did it right friend. Tearing it down like that. 4 hrs is nothing. As you said you picked up a used machine and by the looks it was mistreated. So you did a excellant job of putting it right. And if you keep it you'll keep it right I'm sure.
Thank you for the great feedback! The actual tear down, cleaning, and assembly was completed over the course of multiple long nights. when I re assembled the machine the hook to needle timing was off. I got a little too excited when tearing the machine apart. This was my first time making large adjustments to the the hook so that took about 4 hrs to get the machine to sew correctly after it was re assembled.
From what I understand, and can tell, this machine was used in some sort of factory. The bed of the machine shows almost zero wear, however, I can see where it had some sort of attachment that must have been used in mass (repetitious) production. The neck of the machine is severely damaged do to the previous owners scissors hitting in the same location each time. When the previous owner left the factory, the machine sat for multiple years collecting moisture. I can report that the machine now runs like new and shows zero signs of wear/ abuse (minus its physical appearance which adds to its "story").
I hope to post more videos on this machine soon. I greatly appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment!
@@undergroundupholstery 4 hrs is nothing. Now you know and that is priceless. I've done it many times. Just taught myself how to change moving and fixed knife on my machine. First trimmer I've owned. Getting a tech over and the cost during a big job that needs to go out is not always feasible. And these Juki series are similar so if you go to a 1510n-7 like mine you can deal with that one too. It's the best machine I've owned. I just bought a Brother B837 and restored it to awesome condition due to years of working and learning on my 111W,211W, 226RB,206RB,B837 and others.
Thats Great! I have a singer 211g156 sitting on the project bench that I am planning on fully restoring in the near future! those 1510's are sweet machines
That was a pretty cool video
Thanks!!! Hope to post a update on the machine soon!
Amazing great job
Thank you!!!
I've used many machines in my 50 yrs of upholstery/canvas. I now have used the 1510N-7 for 16 yrs. 1508's big brother. Such a awesome series as you said. I will never go back to a non-auto trimmer thou. I just bought another 1510N-7 to enhance my busines.
That’s an amazing career by the way. I would love to get a chance to use an auto trimmer. I haven’t had the opportunity to give one a try before. I can imagine though, like going from a clutch to sero motor… ya can’t go back. Thank you for watching.
@@undergroundupholstery You should buy a 1510N-7. Just trying one for a few minutes won't show you anything except some change that might fluster you. The servo motor on the Juki (Juki brand) is much better then the servo motors that are common after market types. i know cause I've had the aftermarket servos.
One of these days. I still miss the sound of walking in my dads shop and hearing the the sound of the old clutch motors singing! The next upgrade I want to do is a needle positioning servo.
@@undergroundupholstery My father was an upholster as well. 68 yrs. The juki 1510N-7 comes with a needle positioner. You will make a big mistake getting an aftermarket needle positioner install with a servo motor. Very hoaky compared to the 1510N-7. Trust me. I know. Boy is it hard trying to teach you guys what your missing. You all think I'm full of crap or am stupid. Your loss.
Never said your stupid. Not quite sure where that comes from. I have nothing but respect for you. I unfortunately can’t afford a 1510n-7 with all the bells and whistles and it’s just an occasional hobby for me. I enjoy tinkering with the older machines more than the new ones. If I was going to go all in with a blank check I’d probably grab a Adler. Those things are sweet. It’s good to know that the knock offs units aren’t worth it though. Thanks for watching!
Thank you
Bravo! What a great video! I'm amazed. Such dedication. You really love that machine.
Its been a great machine. thank you
Great video👍
Took the plunge on a 1508 recently and really like the features but….
Sews great for awhile with all tensions set correctly and of course always in a topstitch it either skips a stitch on the bottom or breaks the top thread🤬
Size 20 needle with v92 polyester bonded
Beginning to wish I had my consew 255 back!
first off, congrats on the machine! I went through the same thing with this one. It took me days of adjusting. I was to the point where the machine was about to go for a ride off the table when I finally figured it out. The first thing I did was get a good manual and start at page 1. Here's what you need to try. in this order. 1) set the timing/ proper stroke of the needle. I also use size 20 but the previous owner was using the longer needle so that was the first step. 2) verify that the hook and the needle are properly timed. the needle should be just starting on the up stroke when the hook comes around and passes through the scarf of the needle. 3) adjust the hook so that it passes inside of the needle scarf. if there is too much space between the needle and the hook, this will lead to problems. I just eyeballed it and made the hook come as close to the needle as possible without touching.
what have you tried so far? in the end, I just loosened everything up and started in the order mentioned above. if the hook is passing at the wrong time, all you need to do is loosen the bottom of the bobbin assembly, slide it over, and advance/delay the gears by one tooth but that's last resort.
First off thanks for the reply!
Guess what…
Turned out to be the basting tape I used in an area I needed a little additional help holding my edges together 🤬
So lesson learned using that crap!
Hopefully this helps anyone else having tension issues.
It definitely causes drag on the top stitch!
We'd LOVE to have you over for dinner or three, bring those tools eh!
Haha thank you! Got to love these machines. It seems every screw needs its own tool! Sometimes ya got to get creative, patient, or both.
This is crazy. Good for you that you have the patience and skills to do that. I just bought that machine. It is pretty awesome. I don't foresee myself doing that level of maintenance. But I would like to know how to get the bobbin case off to clean under it. I had thread get under there twice and the thread was not easy to get out.
I started off in the same position you are in. The service manual for this machine is a wealth of information and comes in handy. The one thing I will say, is once you start taking one thing apart, it very quickly starts to lead to other things. A great start would be using some compressed air and penetrating oil. That will loosen all the dust and make it easy to blow out! A good parts manual is also very helpful when you do decide to dive deeper.
Muito Bom no Brasil ela vem com lançadeira na vertical!!!
Wow!
thank you for watching!!!
Hey there! I just bought a used 1508NH in okay condition. Would need a good tune up and cleaning like yours. Few missing parts that would need to be replaced too. Could you tell me what kind if products you used for cleaning and waxing? Thanks! Great video
Hey woody,
When it comes to cleaning, my main go to is the Meguiars cleaning wax on the painted surfaces . Item number A2216. This gets all the dirt and oils out of the paint. After that I just wipe it down occasionally with whatever spray detailing wax I have laying around. Inside the machine, I use a light mist of WD-40 to loosen all the fibers and give it a though blow out with compressed air. Make sure to get as much residual wd40 off and then apply a light sewing machine fabric friendly oil to the all the moving services. Oil at the end of the day. Before I start sewing, I always wipe down any residue with a lint free rag. Hope this helps.
How do you get the small tool kit you used. I have this model and really could use those tools.
Thanks for the comment. I should do a video of the tools that I used. to be honest, the tools are just an assortment of random tools. Most things are from harbor freight or sears. I did make a few small brass screwdrivers myself to fit my needs.
I recently got one.
It has no reservoir packing. What material should I use. I think it’s supposed to be felt, but what thickness and what is a good source for it.
Your video was great. What a project that must have been. And I thought 1000 piece jigsaw puzzles were hard!
Excellent job. Any advice would be appreciated.
Congratulations on the machine. All my discussion to the parts below reference the 1508n (first manual) on the universalsewing.com website.
The job of that oil res, is hold oil to supply the wick that runs from the oil tank, down to the rotation point of the "thread take up lever" and various other components in the other end of the machine. The only thing that the felt does, is prevent oil from spilling out when the machine is lifted back. It allows the reservoir to remain saturated while still providing oil to the wicks without spilling. kinda like a sponge..... wait no need to read the rest of this, just cut a sponge to fit in the bottom of the oil tank. (felt doesn't break down over time like foam or sponge so just keep that in mind. if you go this route just keep an eye on it). Any craft store like Michaels (in the US) should have felt though. I would say mine is about a half inch thick.
if you want "OEM" parts here you go:
I purchase all my parts from universalsewing.com. I have no affiliation with this company but their customer service is amazing and they really are a one stop shop for me. Some items are out of stock but they can usually get them in much faster than what the average ship date says on their site
looking on their website, the felt for the oil res is:
Ref # 24 (page 17 on the 1508n parts list) (First manual)
Part # 214-0770-5 (oil tank felt)
Shipping is going to cost more than the part ($3.00)
Says its out of stock with a ship date a month away but give them a call. like I said they can usually get the parts quicker than listed
here's the question you need to know, when you remove the top plate, do you have the wick running from that oil tank (part reference # 20) to the felt puck (part ref # 18) (on page 17) and then onto the thread take up lever...and wicks (21 & 26) running to other components in the rear of the machine. if those wicks are also missing, then the resivor is somewhat useless.
In a factory setting, where these machines are running full throttle from sun up to sun down, yes you need the wicks to SUPPLEMENT daily oiling. Personally, I manually oil the machine every morning, and then every hour or so depending on how heavily I am using the machine. I hold the top plate on with one screw so I can remove it easily to oil all the components that have rotational friction. Same goes for the plate on the face of the machine.
I hope this helps. Thank you for taking the time to ask this question!
@@undergroundupholstery Thank you so much for the information.
So we watched you clean the machine but we don't get to see how you resolved your issue.............
At the time, I didn’t think anyone was going to watch that long into the video. That and I was figuring it out for the first time myself so there wasn’t much to see. i had so much footage and unnecessary steps that I couldn’t put it into a cohesive video. I plan on doing more maintenance videos over the winter now that I know what I am doing.
Thanks for watch and sorry for the disappointment!
This is really amazing. Must have taken crazy patience and dedication. Thank you for showing this. I am thinking of buying the 1510 ( think that is the same as 1508 with just auto oiling? ) or the LS 1341 ( cylinder bed ) Can would you suggest that machine? I just work in leather. I really like the double tensioners in these.
These are amazing machines. I just posted a video going over 6 of my favorite features on the Juki "15" series of machines. The dual thread tensioners are one of the features I really am glad I have. I currently use this machine on home and auto upholstery (primarily sewing medium weight fabrics and vinyls). I have personally never used this machine on heavier leather so I am not sure that I am 100% qualified to make a recommendation. In my experience this machine is very well built BUT the most important feature for sewing leather would be the strength of the servo motor and its ability to sew through thick materials at very low speeds. Check out Stock & Barrel Co Leathercraft and some of the other popular channels and see what machines they are using. (I'm jealous of your skiver though! nice work)
@@undergroundupholstery Thank you for your kind words :-) I think I am pulling the trigger on a Juki 1341 :-) Though it doesn't have a walking-foot height adjuster, I think it should do what I need it to.
this is a great reference video. What did you use for solvents? Just sewing machine oil? WD-40? Some penetrating oil? Did you use any scotch-brite pads or similar to loosen rust? Thank you.
Thank you. Yes I soak the parts in penetrant and then use 2500-3000 grit to gently remove the rust. Scotch bright is more aggressive but ok to use just make sure you polish the parts after with the 3000 grit and if necessary use the Dremel and a polishing wheel
Price and where it's available?
well, it depends on your location. I found this one for sale online by the original owner. price varies
That was cool. Wish I knew how to do this, how did you learn?
Thank you for taking the time to watch and comment. I am "self taught". My dad had a old Pfaff 1245 that was continuously giving me a hard time. Every time I brought it to get fixed it came back with a different issue (these shops can be quite pricy). I finally decided to dive in and figure it out myself. I purchased a old singer 211 and used that to experiment with. The great thing about these machines is that regardless of the manufacturer, they are all almost the same. Once you understand the workings of one, they all operate off of the same principals (and use almost identical parts). UA-cam is a wealth of information. My recommendation is to start off slow referencing a parts diagram and service manuals. Use pictures as you take things apart. I would say 95% of the problems with these machines can be fixed without taking much apart. I hope to be posting more videos soon to encourage everyone to tackle working on these machines.
thanks
@@undergroundupholstery like upholsters it's hard to find a A1 tech for these. Ask me how I know. I finally found one after 35 yrs. Been with me 14 yrs. Talked me into my 1510N-7 by being able to comumunicate the benefits cause he knows his stuff. He's I could pick that right up. He's a 2nd Gen Industrial Sew Tech and is a miricle worker.
can you do a video on how to remove and replace the needle bar on that machine please
Will do. I know I haven’t posted in a wile, life got a little busy but I’ll be getting back to it soon! Thanks you for the suggestion
Wow! Worthy of @alexanderdyer!
Thank you so much for your kind words! I am by no means worthy of being compared to Alex but I will definitely take a complement when I can get one. Thank you for taking the time to watch and comment!
I just purchased a LU-1508 ... not a 1508N Series just a 1508 and cant find a manual anywhere online
From what I can tell, all 1508's can use the same service manual. Mechanically, the machines are essentially the same. The 1508N's manual are very easy to find.
For parts, I found a standard 1508 parts manual on Universalsewing.com (I have zero affiliation with them but their customer service is amazing)
go to Universalsewing.com
on the top left corner of their page select the 4th dropdown to the right labeled (Parts List).
select JUKI (7th selection down)
scroll ALLLLLL the way down to LU-1508.
Hope this helps
Sir I had a LU 1560 N-7 machine but one side needle thread cut while backtacking in thickness fabric . .. I don't know how to resolve kindly support me sir
Ohhh nice machine! Where you have a huge advantage is being able to compare the workin side of the machine to the non working side. Both sides should be timed exactly the same. So I’m not 100% familiar with the double needle machine but guessing that they use almost the exact same principals, I would suggest the simple things first. I would check to make sure the needle is oriented in the proper direction. And also make sure the needle is fully seated all the up. Some times if the screw works loose and the needle twists or falls down even a little that will mess things up. Usually the main culprit for this issue is that the spacing between the hook and needle are just slightly too far apart. If you open the plate and turn the machine by hand, the needle needs to be just starting the up stroke of the cycle. Compare the good side to the bad side. This creates the loop for the hook to catch, however, at speed, if this is slightly off that would cause a problem. Adjusting the space between the scarf and hook is clearly explained in the manual and is nothing to be afraid of. Honestly, I just loosen the mechanism and eyeball It. As long as the hook passes inside the scarf on the up stroke, and doesn’t contact the needle you’re good to go. Also, make sure the thread is drawling out of the bottom bobbin in the correct direction. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress!
@@undergroundupholstery thank you san
I’m brand new to the industrial sewing machine scene and have a Juki 1508 NS brand new arriving next week. Any suggestions for someone in the Dallas Ft. Worth area that I could hire to help get me up and running?
Very cool!!! Congrats. My best recommendation would be to search local shops and just walk in. The machine itself should be mostly plug and play other than assembly of the table. You made a great purchase. Read and become familiar with the manual. It’s a wealth of information
do you have place of business and work on customers machines???
Aamir ❤❤
where are you located?
Thanks for watching. North west Nj.
Unless you do this all the time, pay the pro I’m not messing up my 1508nh no way!!!!!!
I don’t disagree. I drove my machine 3 hours both ways for repairs and it still came back broken and cost more than what the machine was worth to me. Ever since then I decided to learn how these things work. I’ll be posting more informative videos in the near future! Thanks for watching!
@@undergroundupholstery Thanks for sharing your experience in your awesome video's! I am an amateur restorer; learning by doing and having a bunch of fun, too. Singer 400/500, 319, 201 and some others too. I have been restoring for 4 years, almost. Now I am starting to learn how to sew.
My sewing machine and you on YT is a great classroom for me. When I graduate to a 1508, I'll get 2! One for parts. All the best, thanks for yours.
@JebbAdams thank you! Glad you got some entertainment from my vid and maybe picked up on a trick or two along the way. They are like old cars. You need two just to keep one running lol