I have a 450x with the metal motor. After almost 4 seasons, one of the rear wheels started making a whining noise while working. Noticed that that wheel had vertical and horizontal play if I moved with my hand. I had to dissasemble the motor completely, and replace the 2 608Z bearings. I've put 608 RS bearings that are insulated and I hope they are going to last more time. The new motor does seem to last longer and be better designed that the plastic one in your videos. My gears didn't have any kind of wear like the ones you show, even after 4 years, without any grease, only some carbon dust was inside at that point. I believe that these motors can last until the electrical motor dies if you just regrease it, and change the bearings if you notice that the wheel has play. If the wheel has play and you don't change bearings, no matter if you grease it, it will start wearing the sungear. If that happens and no grease remains I believe it will wear really fast. If you notice any weird noise while the autmower is working, you should really do some manteinance to its wheels. Thank you for taking the time to upload your video, I love to see people fixing things on their own! Husqvarna wants you to buy a new complete motor after every couple of seasons, which is totally stupid. You might ask them but they don't sell any spares for fixing motors, not even the bearings which wear really fast (they are not insulated). You can buy those anywhere though. The problem is if the sungear is wear, because you'll need to salvage that piece from another used motor.
Thank you for posting this video. There seems to be limited information about these drive motors. I appreciate you mentioning several key points about the gear wheel pins, the need for lubrication in all moving parts, and advice on getting the four screws out. I need to replace both drive motors on my 450HX that has 2,500 hours on it. I'm assuming they failed because of no lubrication. I doubt I can save them as both have significant end play. About those four nasty screws, I'm looking into trying to find the same hardened screws with an Allen wrench head or T wrench head so they are easier to remove.
Usefull info, thanks! Just disassembled a broken motor (RH) after replacement on my 315. The route cause i finally identified, was the three plastic gears on the top. Ill see tomorrow if i can replace the plastic ones in the new motor with the metal gears from the spare device. Also one screwhead of the 4 axial screws broke. The amount of grease in the broken motor after 3867 cycles (hrs) was acceptable in my opinion. Btw. the battery was also down after this lifecycles, exactly in the range given in the maintenance manual. Finally after 5 years i had to invest 240€ for maintenance and i think the RH weel motor (another 170€) will come soon.
Unfortunately I am pretty confident those plastic gears are not interchangeable with the metal gears. Also rather uncommon that the plastic gears failed before the metal ones. From my experience the common failure has been the metal ones typically wear out the ID.
Sounds like heat is the issue. What else melts the grease, kinda obvious i guess. That may explain the new metal flange, helps dissipate heat from the gearbox. Also dirt entering the gearbox would be a major problem but from the video they look pretty well sealed. Does the manual tell you the grease type used? Is it high temp silicone based? Should be with plastic gears involved. Be interesting to get a temperature reading after it runs for an hour. Especially before and after a plastic flanged motor has been swapped to metal. So many vids with this problem, not sure i want this brand.
Don't let this stop you. The Husqvarna is by far the most reliable of all the robot mowers I have had. I have been using robot mowers for more than 15 years. This is a very easy problem to fix if you do run into it and the newest motors I installed look to be very robust. As far as the grease is concerned, the original grease in the plastic ones honestly looked light Vaseline. And a very light coating at that. There was more in the new motor, but I added some regardless.
IT SEEMS THESE AUTO MOWERS SHOULD BE SERVICED AFTER THE MOWING SEASON VASELINE ON SEALS AND GROMETS GREASE WHERE IT NEEDS IT CHECK WIRES AND CHECK FOR CORROSION AND SO ON
What's the secret to getting those four little black screws out? I have three motors I would like to take apart and see if I can clean and grease them but those little screws are awful. Best I've been able to do is get three of the four out but that last one just won't budge. What's your secret? Special phillips head?
Intense inward pressure while turning the screwdriver. But. Best option is an impact screwdriver. And by that I don't mean what is typically called an impact these days.I mean the fat metal handheld one that you strike with a hammer. If all else fails, drill the head off that one and just use 3.
Very true. I do know that I had to go through a number of philosophy head screwdrivers in my collection to see which one had the tightest fit in the screw to give me the best chance of success. I mentioned to another poster that an impact screwdrivers would definitely give the best hope. But one the screws are stripped your only option is drill and re-tap. Harbor freight item 64812 for their lower cost impact screwdriver. They do have a more heavy duty one as well.
Just noticed the typo in my previous reply. "Philosophy", Ha, apparently I did that with my not so smart phone. Anyhow, this is a direct link to that screwdriver that will help you be more successful in removing those little screws. www.harborfreight.com/6-bit-impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-64812.html
I have a 450x with the metal motor. After almost 4 seasons, one of the rear wheels started making a whining noise while working. Noticed that that wheel had vertical and horizontal play if I moved with my hand.
I had to dissasemble the motor completely, and replace the 2 608Z bearings. I've put 608 RS bearings that are insulated and I hope they are going to last more time.
The new motor does seem to last longer and be better designed that the plastic one in your videos. My gears didn't have any kind of wear like the ones you show, even after 4 years, without any grease, only some carbon dust was inside at that point.
I believe that these motors can last until the electrical motor dies if you just regrease it, and change the bearings if you notice that the wheel has play. If the wheel has play and you don't change bearings, no matter if you grease it, it will start wearing the sungear. If that happens and no grease remains I believe it will wear really fast. If you notice any weird noise while the autmower is working, you should really do some manteinance to its wheels.
Thank you for taking the time to upload your video, I love to see people fixing things on their own! Husqvarna wants you to buy a new complete motor after every couple of seasons, which is totally stupid. You might ask them but they don't sell any spares for fixing motors, not even the bearings which wear really fast (they are not insulated). You can buy those anywhere though. The problem is if the sungear is wear, because you'll need to salvage that piece from another used motor.
😂 something I deal with everyday!
Thank you! One of my wheels on my 450X just started acting up and I did this full disassembly but was uncertain what the issue was until I saw this!
Thank you for posting this video. There seems to be limited information about these drive motors. I appreciate you mentioning several key points about the gear wheel pins, the need for lubrication in all moving parts, and advice on getting the four screws out.
I need to replace both drive motors on my 450HX that has 2,500 hours on it. I'm assuming they failed because of no lubrication. I doubt I can save them as both have significant end play.
About those four nasty screws, I'm looking into trying to find the same hardened screws with an Allen wrench head or T wrench head so they are easier to remove.
Usefull info, thanks!
Just disassembled a broken motor (RH) after replacement on my 315. The route cause i finally identified, was the three plastic gears on the top.
Ill see tomorrow if i can replace the plastic ones in the new motor with the metal gears from the spare device.
Also one screwhead of the 4 axial screws broke.
The amount of grease in the broken motor after 3867 cycles (hrs) was acceptable in my opinion.
Btw. the battery was also down after this lifecycles, exactly in the range given in the maintenance manual.
Finally after 5 years i had to invest 240€ for maintenance and i think the RH weel motor (another 170€) will come soon.
Unfortunately I am pretty confident those plastic gears are not interchangeable with the metal gears. Also rather uncommon that the plastic gears failed before the metal ones. From my experience the common failure has been the metal ones typically wear out the ID.
Sounds like heat is the issue. What else melts the grease, kinda obvious i guess. That may explain the new metal flange, helps dissipate heat from the gearbox. Also dirt entering the gearbox would be a major problem but from the video they look pretty well sealed. Does the manual tell you the grease type used? Is it high temp silicone based? Should be with plastic gears involved. Be interesting to get a temperature reading after it runs for an hour. Especially before and after a plastic flanged motor has been swapped to metal. So many vids with this problem, not sure i want this brand.
Don't let this stop you. The Husqvarna is by far the most reliable of all the robot mowers I have had. I have been using robot mowers for more than 15 years. This is a very easy problem to fix if you do run into it and the newest motors I installed look to be very robust. As far as the grease is concerned, the original grease in the plastic ones honestly looked light Vaseline. And a very light coating at that. There was more in the new motor, but I added some regardless.
IT SEEMS THESE AUTO MOWERS SHOULD BE SERVICED AFTER THE MOWING SEASON VASELINE ON SEALS AND GROMETS GREASE WHERE IT NEEDS IT CHECK WIRES AND CHECK FOR CORROSION AND SO ON
What's the secret to getting those four little black screws out? I have three motors I would like to take apart and see if I can clean and grease them but those little screws are awful. Best I've been able to do is get three of the four out but that last one just won't budge. What's your secret? Special phillips head?
Intense inward pressure while turning the screwdriver. But. Best option is an impact screwdriver. And by that I don't mean what is typically called an impact these days.I mean the fat metal handheld one that you strike with a hammer. If all else fails, drill the head off that one and just use 3.
Hello, What is the reference of the Gears? Thank you
Do you have the technical caractéristics of the engine?
Those screws are incredibly hard to remove
Very true. I do know that I had to go through a number of philosophy head screwdrivers in my collection to see which one had the tightest fit in the screw to give me the best chance of success. I mentioned to another poster that an impact screwdrivers would definitely give the best hope. But one the screws are stripped your only option is drill and re-tap. Harbor freight item 64812 for their lower cost impact screwdriver. They do have a more heavy duty one as well.
Just noticed the typo in my previous reply. "Philosophy", Ha, apparently I did that with my not so smart phone. Anyhow, this is a direct link to that screwdriver that will help you be more successful in removing those little screws. www.harborfreight.com/6-bit-impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-64812.html
much blaablaa for nothing