macplastering hi, what ratio do you use please mate? I mixed 4:1:1 sand:cement:water but heard of people using 7:1 and even 8:1 just wondering what you use as your render looks nice and plyable. Cheers.
that looked like what i've been doing. I saw an old timer showing his stuff recently. Looked like Ken Dodd. He mixed two bags, then 'screeded' the sides, top and bottom, ie troweled some plaster about 6 inches into the wall, ranged them by eye with a 6ft straight edge so they were roughly level with each other. Then he walloped his two bags onto the wall in rapid time, used the big straight edge to level it all towards his screeded corners and had the whole two bags on the wall, leveled, troweled and flattened in about 20 minutes !!!.
Im not sure u seen the other video where i straighten sand and cement render most plasterers will concentrate on the angles as these are the things will be seen the most top with the ceiling bottom with the skirting and the sides are easy to spot a bend getting walls level is another game all together a few ways to do that as well one if there is frames / beads to work of easy and 2 if you make a few bands plumb and work of them like you have just said :) plasterers move fast just the stuff wont last ;0 :)
+DJ Sandy C It is a hard game but I know anyone could learn how to do bits and pieces of it Thanks for watching Sandy hope you subscribe and have a great day my friend :)
Haha yes yes 1st time seeing that done on site I was like that looks easy guy was doing landing walls lie they where nothing 1st time i try to rub digging in and thinking ohhhh there is some skill to this :)
sorry for late reply mate but can recall one time a guy didn't/couldn't get these old Belfast tiles of very silid and well stuck we gritted and dot and dabbed over and it all worked out very well mate
Great instruction there, thanks for the videos. Question: if plastering outside, what ratio would you mix first coat and second coat and when would you scud a block wall first? Tks
Thanks Paul mate so on the most 3 to 1 then 4 to 1 top coat scud old old blocks or brick that needs better key/grip scudding videos also on the channel along with mixing videos for all i just mentioned :):) always here just drop qustions on related videos if needed
Informative video. Is it better to tile directly over a cement blocks wall or a cement plastered wall? My cement blocks wall is not perfectly flat. I m thinking to first plaster and then tile...
hi Yann I would rather tile over the cement plaster / render as it will be smother straighter making coating the wall with adhesive easier and take less adhesive hope this helps :)
@@yannmonnier4291 Oh yes here on new build they would also skim them then tile over but this is just for decoration , this way is much stronger as sand and cement is much stronger than gypsum plaster , and more way more water resistant so as the walls are all getting tiles top to bottom was no point wasting money skim coating them , not my money but the owner , but i would rather do a good turn for someone :) :) But yes this will be great surface for tiling its well closed in so wont be dusty and also I scratched it with a nailed float to help for a key / grip on the adhesive coating Thanks for the great questions buddy
macplastering totally I have also remembered your advice a few times while going about stuff, to keep things clean as I go :-D its weird as your advice translates well to the 1:10 scale world as well, direct advice and indirect :-p
BattonFive always best to try stay clean and keep the work area as clean as possible it can be hard to keep my areas clean too as plaster can be a mess but definitely is a must to have it clean for the next day as for finishing with cement as you be doing cleaning and washing as you go is a must and will only benefit the result :)
macplastering totally, I used to like winging the cleaning to the very end, but I found it was more effort to try winging it than just cleaning as you go :-)
Hi mate, I'm about to do do some tiling outside my house. I've been reading that rendering the brickwork a week before tiling is the best way to go about getting the tiles to stick rather than just use adhesive straight onto the brickwork? Any advice would be appreciated 🙏 👍
Sounds good man done a video last about 1st coating onto brick and tomorrow will have another on the top coat these videos might help you out some mate as very detailed also there is an updated version of this video on the channel similar title
Hi, thanks for the useful vid! Just wondering how long you should allow this rendering to dry before applying a plaster skim coat... and then should the skim coat be completely dry before you start tiling? I've been told some very conflicting advice from people in the trade.
@Hekatarine so I would skim possibly next day or 2 if you let it dry too much you'd need to wet the wall to be able to control suction and get a good finish as for tiles on that it could be a while as the render thickness will determine how it dries and temperature ect but possibly 2 to 3 weeks if lucky buy could be a good time longer .... agin you can just tile stright on the sand and cement render
@@macplastering Thanks very much for your (super quick!) reply. I really appreciate it. In my bathroom the tiling was done within about 3 days of the plastering job (which was done the day after the rendering - had less than 24 hours to dry). The plaster did look mostly dry, at least at surface level, but there was a much darker damp patch in the corner and the tiles started coming loose in that area within less than a year. The builders are trying to blame it on house movement but I'm pretty sure it's because there was too much moisture in the plaster for the adhesive to properly work. Do you think that's likely?
@Hekatarine @Hekatarine it could well be the case and the cuase if the house is old there wont be loads of movement it woukd be pretty settled. Agin might be some vibration from a door opening and closing? Agin we do have a few videos on how we remove tikes and better still tile adhesive if its the cheaper white stuff it will be easy moved with water might be wirth a look. So to me for tieks to have failed there could be a few resons or the combation. Poorly done cheap adhesive or wrong adhesive believe it or not even the way the stuff is applied can make a difference. Dampness can losen them so and soften adhesive and again movement/ vibration hope this is helpful
I've plastered with sand and cement my bathrooms for tiling, however I've noticed the walls are very cold. Can I dab and dot the insulated tiler backer board to it?
mac plastering I don’t know much about that screed Man , I bought one recently but not sure if you spread the mid or take of the high bits with it ?. I use a aluminium u channel , I usually take of the high bits with that .
@@gulllllll1 The blue speedskim ? Yes I used the same as you an aluminium one mostly used the speedskim for its nice size as fitted in better and coud look across it and take anything else of is needed Thanks again mate
Hi pal. I was under the impression sand and cement always has to have a scratch coat 1st. Is that right? Looked like you did it in one hit to me?? Cheers pal
Hello Matt mate great question your are kinda right yes for outside but for inside no this is called devil floating witch will always get another coat of skim or 2 coats of skim should i say in this case its to be tiled so if I was finishing this wall in a smooth coat of sand and cement would always recommend 2 coats to kill the blocks , I do have more on this type of work coming u in the near weeks witch is very detailed hope you can get on for it :)
@@macplastering Always mate. Your vids are really good. The subtitles are mental but that’s not your fault.🤣🤣. Yeah the ones I’ve seen are really helpful One question. On say a big gable end with no beads to go off how do you get it straight? When I did my apprenticeship years ago they taught at college applying to narrow strips, levelling them and then filling in between. Is that still right today??? All the best pal. Keep up the good work 👍🏻
As in making bands plumb to work of ? That would be correct way to go but very slow I in all my time have never seen any one really do this its just scratch and float working of the beads that have been plumbed or timbers that have been plumbed Thanks for the support mate and yes them subtitles lie others find me hard to understand haah I can fix them but it means I need to go into the video and type every word but its still not just as simple as that as ill have to line them up also and type fast witch I am not good at and also spell good and if you miss the word re watch and re a line very time consuming something I only seem to do on videos that are small and are doing well Thanks' for the feedback mate it means a tone and again your support
Hard to put a time on but when it is dry Temperture has a big part to play if it is cold it will take longer and if it is a thicker coat it will take more time as well but the wall on this video was ready within 2 weeks .
thank you Macplastering just seen your answers this evening , much appreciated!. I started the wall today using three sand one cement which was clearly wrong! it sagged in places and formed cracks. It was up to an inch and a quarter in places.. I ll go in tomorrow and have a look to see if it has bonded to the wall correctly. sould a weaker (5:1)mix and use of sharp sand be an improvement?
Hi phill 3 to 1 is a good mix i think you might have been going to think in one go might have been best to build it out in stages with 3 to 1 then 4 to 1 I think it will set ok for you try and scrap back any sags and re fill with a weaker mix , gouge out any cracks and fill packing it tightly with a 4 to 1 mix , I use plastering sand it is a type of scrap sand but not as gritty lt me know how you get on buddy all the best mac
yes I did try to go on too thick Mac. it seems to be curing ok and will fill the cracks tomorrow or day after. It will in places need three layers , ill reach the surface in parts tomorrow. I put a thin layer on today no more than 15 mm with a 4:1 mix and used some sharp sand in the mix too. (will use a 3:1 in future) I cant thank you enough for your help mate its helped me no end Phil
Really enjoyed your vid just got some questions to help me when I do it please! When you apply the PVA would you let it dry or apply the render straight onto the wall?? What would you do if the block wall is cold or wet?
Hi my friend thanks for watching ... So if the wall is wet I would not wet it further as it could make the sand and cement just run of or slum when your trying to straighten cold is not a big issue when plasterers refer to walls as being hot they mean dry and thirsty as in pulling the water out of the plaster to fast, I wpuld not let the pva get to dry I like to go over it as its sticky .Sbr might be a better glue to use as it is stronger, If the wall is to wet it might need to dry out more before plastering and rendering, what is the cause of the wall being wet mate?
+GSMSfromFV LOL I hope no one has passed out holding their breath but then again I would got a full view for that ;) Yes sometimes plastering is a real dirty dusty job and I was actually holding my breath as i was doing this even though the mask then leaving the room and closing doors not to mention this was the 3rd brush over.... Thanks for watching mate :):)
Get urself a hoover mate, go over it first with that. And get some gloves on when working with mortar or plaster its no good for us hands. Even marigolds would be better than nothing. Good videos all the same am a roughcaster that plasters from time to time so I can appreciate your work. 👍🍀
Hey TheBaldyheed It is Sand and cement mix I have a video on the channel where i mix some called HOW TO MIX SAND AND CEMENT BY HAND DIY I think i give the ratios in there but if not let me know and I will re make one with how i mix it and what i use so on :) Have a great new year :):)
Yes screed plumbed then fill would be the best way but would for sure take more time using sand and cement or how do you set up the screeds ? might be a better way that 1 day set up strike off points then the other day fill the middles
Well as you know plumb and dot will give you very flat wall .but you can also use a box screed method where you don't need to wait for the gear to to pull in .as long as you have a good floating rule or feather edge as for gable ends any big walls plumb and dot can be done with a plumb line that way your top dot will be plumb with the bottom dot . but to be fair theres no short cuts in this it's all about the preparation
@@markstarkey6423 this is true not many short cuts to this method I know it was always done years ago and things now a days is all about speed in new builds
Hi Buddy. Do you ever put lime with your sand & cement mix to make it easier to work with? Also, did the customer request sand & cement or were you simply replacing like for like? Would you consider using Bonding as an alternative? Sorry for so many Q's. ATB mate
+21centurycaveman would try to use sand and cement for all walls especially in a bathroom or walls that are outside walls such as window walls as bonding gets any water in it and it will turn back to soft plaster. No need for lime sand and cement is perfect for this job you can always use mortar mix to make it more playable hope this helps buddy :)
@thetruthfulone73 you could scud coat 1st or sbr and do a scratch to be safe the top coat are you re plastering or tiling? We have videos on them other ways of getting it done
Not bad mate if I am honest works better than I thought it ever would I do like it best for bonding and skim all the same and do prefer a straightedge for sand and cement I think i use it in this demo if ya get time to look = ua-cam.com/video/ZPRTJJW2VOM/v-deo.html
macplastering okay that’s good to know. As you say I’ve tried the speed skim on sand and cement and it seemed a little too flimsy. I have a few walls to float and set tomorrow in hardwall so I’m going to give the speedskim a go and see how I get on. Just watched that video looks like it handled well with the bonding coat. Nice one for commenting back.
I usually get back faster with the comment but been flat out these days and was hoping to respond to a few comment via video as think it might be faster .... and thank you for watching mate
macplastering you’re welcome mate, I’m a bit skeptical when it comes to all these new tools if I’m honest but love the feel of the speedskim compared to any feather edge/derby. I still only use the one steel trowel start to finish when skimming as I find the plastic/flex trowels too flimsy for my liking. Have you tried a felt mop at all? Would love to know your opinion on them?
MOP whats are they haha? I know what ya mean mate why i like to show the tools in use and give my honest thoughts of them and believe me some tools dont get a video they dont make it that far. I still have a few tools to talk about and update the channel with have a few great faithful tools to talk about, the flexi trowels are good but they need to be used at the right time and that could be hard if some1 is new to them but if ya get the hang of them they can help. sometimes i dont get time to grab mine i just hold on tight to the the refina stainless and keep going
I got a simple question. I got old render wall and i want to stick some tiles on. But all render wall is painted so I'd like to put cement sheet on the wall rather than re-rendern or patch up. Question is Is this okay to put cement sheet on the wall for tiling?
Yes mate i have seen this done before although I would say you will need to prime the wall/cement board before priming Thanks for the question and watching buddy :)
Hi buddy I just re uploaded a video lie this with even more detail and how to work it in around a door way / frame ut to answer you it is all about time basically I touch and poke at it until it a little more firm then rub it :)
Hi buddy I have done some guys would recommend lime in the mix or a fully lime render but have a watch at 2 videos where i have done it = ua-cam.com/video/wTnwvSiMS_4/v-deo.html and PART 2 HERE= ua-cam.com/video/5SMJlIzDrqw/v-deo.html I would reccomend plastering sand always never plaster with building sand it tends to shrink dry diffrent and weaker than plastering sand
i done a job a few years ago for dis builder who thought he didnt need a plasterer for the prep work.it was a timber frame house concrete slabbed over it.the builder was to mean to get a proper plasterer in to do the job.he sure regretted it.1st he never over lapped the sheets of metal mesh.he then scrathed coated it.there was fuck all dept to his scratch over its light coat then left it dry 2 much before scrathing it.he got me in then to help him with the finish coat.i was none the wiser but after a day or 2 the muck cracked where he never overlapped the metel joints.it was basically hanging on the wall.i then hand to chip it back off with a cango.pollybond the fuck out of it.mixed skudding up with pva in it and start again.scratched it myself then rubbed it up after a day or 2.so by the builder dat thought he knew it all it had to be done twice.simple mistake not overlapping but costly.i didnt mind i was on day rate lol
@@Limitlessassets With painted brick you would need to test how strong/sound the paint is ,you will want to make sure its not lose and or flaky as it wont bond / stick and could come lose , bets to give it a good scrap and get any lose off
Great video It would be helpful if you could mention and or show the products you use, I am assuming this is a bathroom sorry could not understand your accent. Thank you for your effort
Hi Matia in this one i am using Portland cement with plastering sand I will try to get the products in more often though , yes this is a bathroom :) thanks for watching
No no mate fresh blocks i just work straight over these where old and I pvaed it to help it bond kill any dust missed and also slow it down from setting to fast on me , I could have also used sbr
@@amateurvegan2636 Yea sbr is super good but makes the stuff go off quicker I find , yea fresh water on new block is fine no need to use extra gear as in pva and sbr only use that for concrete heads to help them bond
Hi Max,, just catching up on some of the older videos,, what was the strength on the render mix ? Is there like added for internal walls and how where you scratching the render ? Have you tacks on float , great videos 👍👍
Hey mate you should see the new video uploaded to do with floating :) , but yes man thanks for catching up the strength on this one is either 3 to 1 or 4 to 1 , we call the scratching devil floating it is just fine pin nails tacked in the float to leave a nice mark for the next coat of skim in most cases on this one it is to be tiled :)
@@anthonykenny1120 I have just went with sand and cement no lime , and some mortar mix / plasticise , but you could put a scoop of lime in if you liked just dont over do it as will make the mix weaker
I think this was done before acrylic primers where about like they might have been around but not easy to get but the pva used here is pretty close to sbr and again I would chose sbr over acrylic its very good youll see in newer it would be my go to for if in doubt wipe the sbr out
Yes but how do you achieve level and make sure everything is in the same plane cause this is important for tiling ??? There is actually a technique for doing so using directors or so called beacons. Other wise your wall will be like "propeller"
why not dampen it down and give it a good scud coat then lay on the scratch coat. pva is becoming used far too much for this type of work as a quick way out.. it was never ment for this type of work.. a scud coat would give a far better grip for the scratch coat... I watch alot of your videos and they are very good . I'm on the tools 26 years so I know a thing or two. but the love of pva nowadays is gone way overboard
This is super pva it clams to be a bond / sealer and is one of the strongest pva I know besides from SBR that is but yes a scud coat would have worked just as good but most would say you have to let it set and come back another day wich would be 2 days as you know I would be happy to get 2 days work for this small job but dont always get my way all that being said this job has long been tiled and is 100% but I hear what you say dude
How to re plaster old stone Part1 ua-cam.com/video/wTnwvSiMS_4/v-deo.html
macplastering hi, what ratio do you use please mate? I mixed 4:1:1 sand:cement:water but heard of people using 7:1 and even 8:1 just wondering what you use as your render looks nice and plyable. Cheers.
@@privatewid Just sen this comment now buddy have a few vdeos on the channel doing mixes and talking about them in live-chats
@Humpty Dumpty Sand and cement buddy have a few videos uploaded on the mixes i use
@Humpty Dumpty Thanks for the support buddy :) the newer videos also have better sound :)
Perfect just what I was looking for, notoriously UA-cam throws up all kinds of vids ( all good) but thus has helped me loads . Cheers buddy 😊
Hi mate so glad you liked this one belove it or not we have a few more like it but newer better sounds and footage ect
Good stuff mate, many thanks for the great instruction
Hi Danny m8 have newer better videos on this subject on the channel 😀
@@macplastering na not possible mate that was all I needed!!!. Have subscribed and will check out your other stuff, top man.
@@dannymacdowall6516 haha thank you buddy see you on the new one
that looked like what i've been doing. I saw an old timer showing his stuff recently. Looked like Ken Dodd. He mixed two bags, then 'screeded' the sides, top and bottom, ie troweled some plaster about 6 inches into the wall, ranged them by eye with a 6ft straight edge so they were roughly level with each other. Then he walloped his two bags onto the wall in rapid time, used the big straight edge to level it all towards his screeded corners and had the whole two bags on the wall, leveled, troweled and flattened in about 20 minutes !!!.
Im not sure u seen the other video where i straighten sand and cement render most plasterers will concentrate on the angles as these are the things will be seen the most top with the ceiling bottom with the skirting and the sides are easy to spot a bend getting walls level is another game all together a few ways to do that as well one if there is frames / beads to work of easy and 2 if you make a few bands plumb and work of them like you have just said :) plasterers move fast just the stuff wont last ;0 :)
hi hun its Sandy.thanks for the message.i enjoy looking at your videos.might take up plastering my self 😉😄💋
+DJ Sandy C It is a hard game but I know anyone could learn how to do bits and pieces of it Thanks for watching Sandy hope you subscribe and have a great day my friend :)
+macplastering ye too and have a great week x
Very professional, nice to see.
HI Kev thank you I do try :) Thank you for the support Very much appreciated :)
keep an eye open for the Christmas special :):)
same way i was thought with the floating up like number 8s on its side.good job bud
Haha yes yes 1st time seeing that done on site I was like that looks easy guy was doing landing walls lie they where nothing 1st time i try to rub digging in and thinking ohhhh there is some skill to this :)
@@macplastering ya man it looks easy enough but when ur starting off and ur digging rite in u soon realise its trickery.
@@emmettmccarthy7247 100% oh ive a new version of this video to get edited and uploaded
Once again after being a while...that plasterers "hole"...lol... bless you mate...you make me laugh!
Haha trying to fill the holes but every now and agin my own is shown lol thanks for watching mate
Thank you for the very good video. Thumb up !!
Another great video, Mac :-) All the best, Jenny ♫
+JennysCountryChannel Thanks Jenny :):)
Curious as to what weight of tiles this could support
any weight this would be very good grip / key for the adhesive
Mac have you ever plastered over tiles, blue grit, bonding then skim?
sorry for late reply mate but can recall one time a guy didn't/couldn't get these old Belfast tiles of very silid and well stuck we gritted and dot and dabbed over and it all worked out very well mate
Great instruction there, thanks for the videos. Question: if plastering outside, what ratio would you mix first coat and second coat and when would you scud a block wall first? Tks
Thanks Paul mate so on the most 3 to 1 then 4 to 1 top coat scud old old blocks or brick that needs better key/grip scudding videos also on the channel along with mixing videos for all i just mentioned :):) always here just drop qustions on related videos if needed
Informative video. Is it better to tile directly over a cement blocks wall or a cement plastered wall? My cement blocks wall is not perfectly flat. I m thinking to first plaster and then tile...
hi Yann I would rather tile over the cement plaster / render as it will be smother straighter making coating the wall with adhesive easier and take less adhesive hope this helps :)
Yes I agree the tiling should be easier with a rendered wall. I was wondering if a rendered surface is strong enough base to hold tiles...
@@yannmonnier4291 Oh yes here on new build they would also skim them then tile over but this is just for decoration , this way is much stronger as sand and cement is much stronger than gypsum plaster , and more way more water resistant so as the walls are all getting tiles top to bottom was no point wasting money skim coating them , not my money but the owner , but i would rather do a good turn for someone :) :) But yes this will be great surface for tiling its well closed in so wont be dusty and also I scratched it with a nailed float to help for a key / grip on the adhesive coating
Thanks for the great questions buddy
nice prep work :-) time well spent for sure :-D
+BattonFive Oh yes plastering in fact all building and decorating work is about prep prep prep better the prep easier the work ahead :)
macplastering totally I have also remembered your advice a few times while going about stuff, to keep things clean as I go :-D
its weird as your advice translates well to the 1:10 scale world as well, direct advice and indirect :-p
BattonFive always best to try stay clean and keep the work area as clean as possible it can be hard to keep my areas clean too as plaster can be a mess but definitely is a must to have it clean for the next day as for finishing with cement as you be doing cleaning and washing as you go is a must and will only benefit the result :)
macplastering totally, I used to like winging the cleaning to the very end, but I found it was more effort to try winging it than just cleaning as you go :-)
Hi mate, I'm about to do do some tiling outside my house. I've been reading that rendering the brickwork a week before tiling is the best way to go about getting the tiles to stick rather than just use adhesive straight onto the brickwork? Any advice would be appreciated 🙏 👍
Sounds good man done a video last about 1st coating onto brick and tomorrow will have another on the top coat these videos might help you out some mate as very detailed also there is an updated version of this video on the channel similar title
Thanks mate will give them a watch and thanks for the reply. Keep up the good work 👍
Hope you got on well mate
Excellent video!
Thank you Colleen :)
Hi, thanks for the useful vid! Just wondering how long you should allow this rendering to dry before applying a plaster skim coat... and then should the skim coat be completely dry before you start tiling? I've been told some very conflicting advice from people in the trade.
@Hekatarine so I would skim possibly next day or 2 if you let it dry too much you'd need to wet the wall to be able to control suction and get a good finish as for tiles on that it could be a while as the render thickness will determine how it dries and temperature ect but possibly 2 to 3 weeks if lucky buy could be a good time longer .... agin you can just tile stright on the sand and cement render
@@macplastering Thanks very much for your (super quick!) reply. I really appreciate it. In my bathroom the tiling was done within about 3 days of the plastering job (which was done the day after the rendering - had less than 24 hours to dry). The plaster did look mostly dry, at least at surface level, but there was a much darker damp patch in the corner and the tiles started coming loose in that area within less than a year. The builders are trying to blame it on house movement but I'm pretty sure it's because there was too much moisture in the plaster for the adhesive to properly work. Do you think that's likely?
@Hekatarine @Hekatarine it could well be the case and the cuase if the house is old there wont be loads of movement it woukd be pretty settled. Agin might be some vibration from a door opening and closing? Agin we do have a few videos on how we remove tikes and better still tile adhesive if its the cheaper white stuff it will be easy moved with water might be wirth a look. So to me for tieks to have failed there could be a few resons or the combation. Poorly done cheap adhesive or wrong adhesive believe it or not even the way the stuff is applied can make a difference. Dampness can losen them so and soften adhesive and again movement/ vibration hope this is helpful
Excellent video. Keep up the amazing work. (:
+Terezia Gavalierova Thank you my dear friend your support and encouragement is much appreciated :):)
Very nice video! Happy new week ♥
+Danai Moraiti (danai2014) Thank you my friend have a great week :)
macplastering ♥
Danai Moraiti :)
Thank you for the very good video.
I've plastered with sand and cement my bathrooms for tiling, however I've noticed the walls are very cold. Can I dab and dot the insulated tiler backer board to it?
I would think so might need a few fixings in to mate
Good job mate , looks like there is a chunk of dried cement on your float there brother , making scratchys
at 7:30 ? its nails in the float that will leave a key for the skim coat to grip :) Thanks for watching Jon mate
mac plastering oath brother , into it ,showing us how it’s done ... elite 🤙👍👍👍
@@gulllllll1 Always here mate if you need any help or ideas :) Thanks again mate
mac plastering I don’t know much about that screed Man , I bought one recently but not sure if you spread the mid or take of the high bits with it ?. I use a aluminium u channel , I usually take of the high bits with that .
@@gulllllll1 The blue speedskim ? Yes I used the same as you an aluminium one mostly used the speedskim for its nice size as fitted in better and coud look across it and take anything else of is needed Thanks again mate
Always a problem is fine dust , great job on the walls , always looks so easy when you do the job Mac , liked, have a terrific week :) ms
Thank you mate :) yes dust is a pain for all of us needs to be a good clean surface to be able to hole the render and plasters
Thanks for showing us :)
+tengu230 Anytime my friend glad you liked it and a big thanks foe watching :)
+macplastering You're welcome :)
Hi pal. I was under the impression sand and cement always has to have a scratch coat 1st. Is that right? Looked like you did it in one hit to me?? Cheers pal
Hello Matt mate great question your are kinda right yes for outside but for inside no this is called devil floating witch will always get another coat of skim or 2 coats of skim should i say in this case its to be tiled so if I was finishing this wall in a smooth coat of sand and cement would always recommend 2 coats to kill the blocks , I do have more on this type of work coming u in the near weeks witch is very detailed hope you can get on for it :)
@@macplastering Always mate. Your vids are really good. The subtitles are mental but that’s not your fault.🤣🤣. Yeah the ones I’ve seen are really helpful
One question. On say a big gable end with no beads to go off how do you get it straight? When I did my apprenticeship years ago they taught at college applying to narrow strips, levelling them and then filling in between. Is that still right today???
All the best pal. Keep up the good work 👍🏻
As in making bands plumb to work of ? That would be correct way to go but very slow I in all my time have never seen any one really do this its just scratch and float working of the beads that have been plumbed or timbers that have been plumbed Thanks for the support mate and yes them subtitles lie others find me hard to understand haah I can fix them but it means I need to go into the video and type every word but its still not just as simple as that as ill have to line them up also and type fast witch I am not good at and also spell good and if you miss the word re watch and re a line very time consuming something I only seem to do on videos that are small and are doing well Thanks' for the feedback mate it means a tone and again your support
thanks for this! I couldn't hear the sound as am watching it in a public place. how soon is it before you can tile over it please?
Hard to put a time on but when it is dry Temperture has a big part to play if it is cold it will take longer and if it is a thicker coat it will take more time as well but the wall on this video was ready within 2 weeks .
You can test it by drill small holes and if it turns to dry dust it is dry if it will push together and bond the leave longer
thank you Macplastering just seen your answers this evening , much appreciated!. I started the wall today using three sand one cement which was clearly wrong! it sagged in places and formed cracks. It was up to an inch and a quarter in places.. I ll go in tomorrow and have a look to see if it has bonded to the wall correctly. sould a weaker (5:1)mix and use of sharp sand be an improvement?
Hi phill 3 to 1 is a good mix i think you might have been going to think in one go might have been best to build it out in stages with 3 to 1 then 4 to 1 I think it will set ok for you try and scrap back any sags and re fill with a weaker mix , gouge out any cracks and fill packing it tightly with a 4 to 1 mix , I use plastering sand it is a type of scrap sand but not as gritty lt me know how you get on buddy all the best mac
yes I did try to go on too thick Mac. it seems to be curing ok and will fill the cracks tomorrow or day after. It will in places need three layers , ill reach the surface in parts tomorrow. I put a thin layer on today no more than 15 mm with a 4:1 mix and used some sharp sand in the mix too. (will use a 3:1 in future)
I cant thank you enough for your help mate its helped me no end
Phil
Really enjoyed your vid just got some questions to help me when I do it please!
When you apply the PVA would you let it dry or apply the render straight onto the wall??
What would you do if the block wall is cold or wet?
Hi my friend thanks for watching ...
So if the wall is wet I would not wet it further as it could make the sand and cement just run of or slum when your trying to straighten cold is not a big issue when plasterers refer to walls as being hot they mean dry and thirsty as in pulling the water out of the plaster to fast, I wpuld not let the pva get to dry I like to go over it as its sticky .Sbr might be a better glue to use as it is stronger, If the wall is to wet it might need to dry out more before plastering and rendering, what is the cause of the wall being wet mate?
All that dust. I was choking just watching you. I almost sprayed the monitor with the garden hose! ;o))
+GSMSfromFV LOL I hope no one has passed out holding their breath but then again I would got a full view for that ;) Yes sometimes plastering is a real dirty dusty job and I was actually holding my breath as i was doing this even though the mask then leaving the room and closing doors not to mention this was the 3rd brush over.... Thanks for watching mate :):)
Get urself a hoover mate, go over it first with that. And get some gloves on when working with mortar or plaster its no good for us hands. Even marigolds would be better than nothing. Good videos all the same am a roughcaster that plasters from time to time so I can appreciate your work. 👍🍀
Great work
+Emmz732 Thanks for watching Emz :)
Nice work lad 🤙
Thank you buddy have a new uploaded for smooth render :)
What's the product brand u use in this video or u use currently got this job ? Internal wall same as u have here
Sand and cement mix have more videos on mixes and better videos on this subject newer
@@macplastering thanks 😊
@@spoonz1065 no problems agin any questions just pop them on the videos and can help u if ya need m8
watchya mate, really enjoy your videos 👍 what was that you were spreading on the wall please? what was the mix etc? keep up the good work mate
Hey TheBaldyheed It is Sand and cement mix I have a video on the channel where i mix some called HOW TO MIX SAND AND CEMENT BY HAND DIY I think i give the ratios in there but if not let me know and I will re make one with how i mix it and what i use so on :) Have a great new year :):)
Can I use sbr instead of PVA?
@@deaosatori216 yes buddy
Could you tell us the ratio of sand/cement you are using for the render, plz?!
For sure brother i did a similar mix in video here = ua-cam.com/video/Tsw-t8mwLRI/v-deo.html
How to mix render 1st coat but its the same mix
Nice vid pal. Watched a few of yours, your a good spread you've got a good way of putting it across too. Nice 1
hi Harley thanks for the compliments much appreciated hoping to make new videos soon :) Have a great weekend
that's some crack up your back big man lol
happy saint plasterers day ;)
Cracking video, nice finish. Get yourself a proper roller, that looked like a baby's sock on a poll 😄
Haha man I giggled at that :) yes it is just a cheap throw away as pva destroys them :):)
Not many people float walls these day and I believe if you can't float you're not a plasterer,I was taught to make screeds 1st then fill in the rest
Yes screed plumbed then fill would be the best way but would for sure take more time using sand and cement or how do you set up the screeds ? might be a better way that 1 day set up strike off points then the other day fill the middles
Well as you know plumb and dot will give you very flat wall .but you can also use a box screed method where you don't need to wait for the gear to to pull in .as long as you have a good floating rule or feather edge as for gable ends any big walls plumb and dot can be done with a plumb line that way your top dot will be plumb with the bottom dot . but to be fair theres no short cuts in this it's all about the preparation
@@markstarkey6423 this is true not many short cuts to this method I know it was always done years ago and things now a days is all about speed in new builds
What you all think ?? Refina's new petrol drill
ua-cam.com/video/DBMqSaHCa0U/v-deo.html
#mixer #render #cordless #drill
Hi Buddy. Do you ever put lime with your sand & cement mix to make it easier to work with? Also, did the customer request sand & cement or were you simply replacing like for like? Would you consider using Bonding as an alternative? Sorry for so many Q's. ATB mate
+21centurycaveman would try to use sand and cement for all walls especially in a bathroom or walls that are outside walls such as window walls as bonding gets any water in it and it will turn back to soft plaster. No need for lime sand and cement is perfect for this job you can always use mortar mix to make it more playable hope this helps buddy :)
macplastering That's great, Thanks very much. Have a great day. Des
+21centurycaveman Anytime Des mate Patrick asked me something and i can't find his page? (bish bash bosh)
Hi mate. Gonna ask you a silly question. Can You use fairy liquid in your render mix... Hav u ever come across this??🤔🤔🤔🤔
@@moeenahmed6853
"Washing up liquid affects the long term structural integrity of mortar and should never be used as a substitute for plasticiser."
I've got coal Ash mortar brick walls what would u recommend to render them or dot an dab them and if render then what mix of render?
Are the smoth faced brick?
@macplastering no they don't seem to be
@thetruthfulone73 you could scud coat 1st or sbr and do a scratch to be safe the top coat are you re plastering or tiling? We have videos on them other ways of getting it done
@@macplastering replastering the bedrooms and going to be tiling the bathroom
@thetruthfulone73 so if you are tiling the whole wall no need to skim it this will be a great key for tiles
How do you find the speed skim when using on backing plasters/renders? Does it work as well as you would hope?
Not bad mate if I am honest works better than I thought it ever would I do like it best for bonding and skim all the same and do prefer a straightedge for sand and cement I think i use it in this demo if ya get time to look = ua-cam.com/video/ZPRTJJW2VOM/v-deo.html
macplastering okay that’s good to know. As you say I’ve tried the speed skim on sand and cement and it seemed a little too flimsy. I have a few walls to float and set tomorrow in hardwall so I’m going to give the speedskim a go and see how I get on. Just watched that video looks like it handled well with the bonding coat. Nice one for commenting back.
I usually get back faster with the comment but been flat out these days and was hoping to respond to a few comment via video as think it might be faster .... and thank you for watching mate
macplastering you’re welcome mate, I’m a bit skeptical when it comes to all these new tools if I’m honest but love the feel of the speedskim compared to any feather edge/derby. I still only use the one steel trowel start to finish when skimming as I find the plastic/flex trowels too flimsy for my liking. Have you tried a felt mop at all? Would love to know your opinion on them?
MOP whats are they haha? I know what ya mean mate why i like to show the tools in use and give my honest thoughts of them and believe me some tools dont get a video they dont make it that far. I still have a few tools to talk about and update the channel with have a few great faithful tools to talk about, the flexi trowels are good but they need to be used at the right time and that could be hard if some1 is new to them but if ya get the hang of them they can help. sometimes i dont get time to grab mine i just hold on tight to the the refina stainless and keep going
Love a bit of sand a cement! ;)
Oh yes it can be a real work out :)
love you vids. can you then apply plaster to the wall. if so what type do you recommend
Just seen this comment yes you can skim it a day or two after i would say and ski coat plaster would be fine carlite or multi finish
cool video keep it up
Will do thanks for watching :)
I got a simple question. I got old render wall and i want to stick some tiles on. But all render wall is painted so I'd like to put cement sheet on the wall rather than re-rendern or patch up.
Question is
Is this okay to put cement sheet on the wall for tiling?
Yes mate i have seen this done before although I would say you will need to prime the wall/cement board before priming Thanks for the question and watching buddy :)
@@macplastering thanks
@@SirLanceTV Any time buddy and always here if you need help plus new videos every Sunday :)
How long do you wait until you float it?
Hi buddy I just re uploaded a video lie this with even more detail and how to work it in around a door way / frame ut to answer you it is all about time basically I touch and poke at it until it a little more firm then rub it :)
Hi matey. Can you this method on a stone wall??? Can you use plastering sand instead of building sand??
Hi buddy I have done some guys would recommend lime in the mix or a fully lime render but have a watch at 2 videos where i have done it = ua-cam.com/video/wTnwvSiMS_4/v-deo.html and PART 2 HERE= ua-cam.com/video/5SMJlIzDrqw/v-deo.html I would reccomend plastering sand always never plaster with building sand it tends to shrink dry diffrent and weaker than plastering sand
Do you put plasticisers in that mix?
Yes but not much always read them before use ps some can be 10x stronger than others have new rendering videos on the channel now to mate
Sorry, one more question buddy. Would you bother skimming over before tiling or just leave as is? Cheers
+21centurycaveman hi mate no this can be tiled just as easy over the render especially as its to be tiled from floor to ceiling :)
macplastering Thank you! ATB
+21centurycaveman No problems :)
Q: How much wre the wall off level after finishing?
well can't A; that budy as i did not tile it but i'm sure he made a great job on finishing as the prep was all done for him thanks for watching
i done a job a few years ago for dis builder who thought he didnt need a plasterer for the prep work.it was a timber frame house concrete slabbed over it.the builder was to mean to get a proper plasterer in to do the job.he sure regretted it.1st he never over lapped the sheets of metal mesh.he then scrathed coated it.there was fuck all dept to his scratch over its light coat then left it dry 2 much before scrathing it.he got me in then to help him with the finish coat.i was none the wiser but after a day or 2 the muck cracked where he never overlapped the metel joints.it was basically hanging on the wall.i then hand to chip it back off with a cango.pollybond the fuck out of it.mixed skudding up with pva in it and start again.scratched it myself then rubbed it up after a day or 2.so by the builder dat thought he knew it all it had to be done twice.simple mistake not overlapping but costly.i didnt mind i was on day rate lol
Prep is the most important part for sure start as you mean to go on ehh :)
What was your mix ratio?
Would have been 3 to 1 or 4 to 1 but most likely 3 to 1
3 sand 1 cement?
Could I do this on painted brick?
@@Limitlessassets Yes mate its a good strong mix
@@Limitlessassets With painted brick you would need to test how strong/sound the paint is ,you will want to make sure its not lose and or flaky as it wont bond / stick and could come lose , bets to give it a good scrap and get any lose off
Great video It would be helpful if you could mention and or show the products you use, I am assuming this is a bathroom sorry could not understand your accent. Thank you for your effort
Hi Matia in this one i am using Portland cement with plastering sand I will try to get the products in more often though , yes this is a bathroom :) thanks for watching
Do you always pva when you sand & cement render ?
No no mate fresh blocks i just work straight over these where old and I pvaed it to help it bond kill any dust missed and also slow it down from setting to fast on me , I could have also used sbr
mac plastering
I thought as much!
Splash of water is enough on fresh walls right ?
I prefer SBR over pva for rendering
@@amateurvegan2636 Yea sbr is super good but makes the stuff go off quicker I find , yea fresh water on new block is fine no need to use extra gear as in pva and sbr only use that for concrete heads to help them bond
good video bro
Thank you :) Have a great weekend
Was it you that was using catlite finish plaster.
Not sure mate I use both that and multi was it on here?
Hi Max,, just catching up on some of the older videos,, what was the strength on the render mix ? Is there like added for internal walls and how where you scratching the render ? Have you tacks on float , great videos 👍👍
Sorry mac meant lime not like lol
Hey mate you should see the new video uploaded to do with floating :) , but yes man thanks for catching up the strength on this one is either 3 to 1 or 4 to 1 , we call the scratching devil floating it is just fine pin nails tacked in the float to leave a nice mark for the next coat of skim in most cases on this one it is to be tiled :)
@@anthonykenny1120 I have just went with sand and cement no lime , and some mortar mix / plasticise , but you could put a scoop of lime in if you liked just dont over do it as will make the mix weaker
Wouldn’t it be better to use an Acrylic Primer rather than a PVA? As PVA can re-emulsify if exposed to moisture.
I think this was done before acrylic primers where about like they might have been around but not easy to get but the pva used here is pretty close to sbr and again I would chose sbr over acrylic its very good youll see in newer it would be my go to for if in doubt wipe the sbr out
what's the gap at the top for 😃
Hi Terry I didn't get the job of gutting it out but believe it or not that stuff was solid so I just worked to it Thanks for watching man :)
nice plaster
Thanks Pavan mate :):)
Think bigger roller might help
Sure would left it on another job that day
What is the sand to cement mix used?
Hi jack this is another video of me mixing with ratios - ua-cam.com/video/kxtrsKC_z70/v-deo.html
I can’t understand anything what is this first thing he put on
I have more upto date videos might be better with sound ect but sbr would be a great glue to use
Lovely job. Made it look easy.......and it ain't!
Thanks mate yea thing about plastering looks a lot easier than it is :):) Thanks for the support mate
Cant understand a word with all that music playng 😢
Have a new version buddy just voice
by the way.nice boxers 😄😉
+DJ Sandy C ops I know i need to sort that builder bum out lol
macplastering 😂🔨🔧
Yes but how do you achieve level and make sure everything is in the same plane cause this is important for tiling ??? There is actually a technique for doing so using directors or so called beacons. Other wise your wall will be like "propeller"
its on my other videos
Lol @ the censor
+Emmz732 LOL :)
Pull up your jocks
True
You need a bigger/better face mask. Your lungs will pay the price in the years ahead if you don't.
agreed was holding my breath and leaving room in between but this mask was better than no mask
Is this is bathroom m8 ?
I know it was a toliet but cant remember if a shower or bath was been installed have an up dated version of this on the channel now mate
I died from all the dust! Use a vacuum cleaner!
This video has a real life feel to it :) yea man used dust mask normally have better ones now , might invest in a work vac :) thanks for watching
What language is he using!?
English
well sealed mask XD
only thing worse than this mask is no mask at all LOL
why not dampen it down and give it a good scud coat then lay on the scratch coat. pva is becoming used far too much for this type of work as a quick way out.. it was never ment for this type of work.. a scud coat would give a far better grip for the scratch coat... I watch alot of your videos and they are very good . I'm on the tools 26 years so I know a thing or two. but the love of pva nowadays is gone way overboard
This is super pva it clams to be a bond / sealer and is one of the strongest pva I know besides from SBR that is but yes a scud coat would have worked just as good but most would say you have to let it set and come back another day wich would be 2 days as you know I would be happy to get 2 days work for this small job but dont always get my way all that being said this job has long been tiled and is 100% but I hear what you say dude
Might be more what you like here = ua-cam.com/video/wTnwvSiMS_4/v-deo.html
Go and get some practice mate
Accent too strong to understand
Can you look at a new video and let me know if it is easier to understand ? think the sound is better this is an older video but let me know please
Nah wtf is that job
Hey mumble chops hmurph ma mur ma murph ma murph
thanks for watching les