This an excellent video and I greatly appreciate your making it. I used it to help me in rebuilding the aw4 for my Jeep. I noticed you mention the metal sealing rings. What trouble did you have when you changed them? Also, have you experienced any trouble with replacement split seals not sealing even though they are properly installed? Thanks again
To be honest, I don't remember. Back when I first started and went to the seminars, ATSG told us that.So, I have never replaced them. Never had a problem with the others other than fitment. Check them in their bore first. Allowed .009 gap at most..
I am rebuilding a A340F. My kit came with 5 forward clutches but I had 6 in the trans. Also the kit did not come with the 3 little filters for the valve body. any suggestions?
I don't know who you bought your kit from but you might contact them. WIT and Transtar sell them separately. Links are in the description. As far as the filters go. If they are not ripped you can clean them and reuse them. Also they can be left out with no issues.
Thanks for your help, the transmission works great. unfortunetly the rebuilt torq converter from NAPA failed within a week. it has a loud whirling sound when in drive and reverse. would you suggest I take a replacement from Napa. I also found a new one from "toyota overstock" for $1,100. the Napa converter was $270.
Hi, do you know what the valve body separator plate code id is for your sequoia here? The 2wd? Also the casting #? I need to know so I can have the proper new valve body sent in for my sequoia.
I get reamed about that all the time. I have been using the same impact for about 25 years now. I know what it feels and sounds like when I am tightening bolts. If you are not confident in your abilities to do that you should use a torque wrench. There are times I still do.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission one more question. The Valve Body, mine has the seperator plate and a black gasket. Do I need to replace the black gasket? I see yours doesnt have one. I have the same transmission as the on in the video. I accendtly made a small crack on the paper blac gasket and toyota is saying it going to take a month to get it.
I don't use gaskets on my Toyota's. They will work fine without them. If you have the ability flat sand both surfaces and the separator plate. If you use a gasket, it is best to match every single hole on a Toyota as there are so many ones with just slight differences in them. Just the gasket being swollen can get you in trouble with them.
Ahhh okay. So you wouldn't recommend putting transmission gasket maker on the small crack on the black gasket instead right. It's better to just remove the entire black gasket and just use the separator plate by itself.
No, I would not do that. If you don't want to take the valve body apart and take the whole thing off, you can trim all the gasket off with a razor blade all the way around, so it sits flat.
Hi , thanks for the great video it was alot of help i just rebuilt my a340 from my 02 tacoma 4wd but i am having trouble with overdrive clearance and burnt overdrive up on first drive and it would'nt even shift into 4th but came back to find it burnt the clutches up im not sure whats happening and would greatly appreciate some insight Thank you . Alex.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission These are the overdrive brake clutches large ones in the drum Mine is a 4 pack clutches with 4 .079 steels and a pressure plate with a 37 stamped on it It came out with a 079 steel/ friction alternating with a presssure plate on top ATSG states a few combos and piston travels based on specific models My piston travel was 1.43 mm Spec 1.4-1.7 mm per ATSG I burnt up overdrive after only driving a couple of miles and it wouldn’t even shift into 4th gear it threw a p0755 code which had me drop the pan and instantly could smell the burnt and I dropped the valve body and could see the massive clearance and burnt OD brake clutches I’m wondering if something is wrong in my valve body or what I could have done wrong Thanks in advance
@@CurmudgeonTransmissionno they were not burnt before the reason for the rebuild is the overdrive planetary came apart Upon further investigation The OD direct clutches are melted together also I have decided to tear the transmission down completely from this point I had 11 check balls and took a photo of their locations and am confident they are back in the right spot but I cannot find a diagram with 11 check balls 10/12 so is it possible I lost one or is their a 11 check ball valve body that I didn’t find the diagram for I was using sonnax vacuum test pdf for my info . Kind Regards
Give me the casting number on both halves of the VB and the separator plate number and I will see if I have the locations. There are so many variations on this valve body it is not even funny.
Hopefully this translates well to the 4wd transmission. Im going to be rebuilding mine soon, thank you for this! I can tell you have experience. Only with lots of it can you pick through piles of parts and get it together like nothing. What grease do you use for the orings? Will any moly grease work for holding parts in place like you are doing?
It is the same except the output shaft and tail housing are different. You are not going to want to use moly grease. I use Lubegard assembly goo. It is specially formulated for transmissions. I use the blue for o-rings and green to hold bearings etc. in place. If you don't want to use that you can use transmission fluid for lube and vaseline to hold stuff in place. However, it is not as thick as the green and will not hold them in place as well.
Hi, the first snap ring that goes back in with the beveled edge (at 25:50) i notice you specified bevel toward front which is consistent with the atsg aw4 instructions. Im rebuilding a toyota 30-43le which is similar, has the beveled snap ring, but the toyota instructions do not specify which way the bevel goes and i chose to install the bevel facing back. Im now several steps past that. Would you go back and flip it? The toyota instructions have been pretty clear otherwise, have they left this out because it doesn't actually matter?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks I did👍 Another detail I noticed in your process (a bit too late for me), with the manual shift rod you left the rooster comb, spring clip, and "spacer" sleeve in place. I had already removed that spacer per the Toyota instructions... to anybody else doing this job for the 1st time: a replacement is not included in the rebuild kit! I believe it's purpose is just to make extra sure the spring pin never falls out. I will be replacing it with a widget from my collection.
I am about to work on a 1989 4wd A340H transmission. It has started to have no reverse in 2wd backing uphill. It will go if in 4wd low. I was planning (hoping) a master rebuild kit for the transmission and transfer case will cure what ails it. Any speculations of what might have gone wrong in there? This was a great video and while the year is different than mine I am guessing things are pretty similar inside. Thanks again!
@@CurmudgeonTransmission it has now started to 'shudder' a bit when starting out backing up in 4wd Low. Driving back from town the other day and climbing a grade the transmission did not seem as 'responsive' as in harder to maintain a 45 mph up the grade. I guess the thing to do is get it out of the rig and cleaned up and disassembled. Any obvious signs you would suggest looking for? I read somewhere on the internet that a possible reason it is working in 4wd low is that it takes less pressure to run the reverse gear and that the clutch is slipping at higher pressure. I don't have the expertise to evaluate the truth of that statement. Thanks so much for getting back to me!
I think what they meant was less torque in 4 low. It actually needs more pressure to work reverse than forward. I think it will be obvious what happened when you get in there. I would imagine it started off as the rubber seals getting hard and loosing pressure. It's what usually happens with Toyota's, besides the planetaries coming apart.
Thank you for this great video i lost all my fluid due to cable speed sensor came loose and trany got over heated what parts need to be replaceed do you think its a 30 40le
Great video but I sat and watched the whole thing and it didn’t cover what I was interested in which was the shift solenoids. I have a 1998 Toyota Tacoma 4 wheel drive that is giving problems. Sometimes when I put it in drive it doesn’t take the gear. I can start off in low and shift to second then drive and it works fine even when pulling a trailer. It’s pulling a PO753 code. Any suggestions?
Check out the 1 hour 30 mark in the video. P0753 is shift solenoid A electrical. Should measure 10-14 Ohms. Can also check them using 12 volts. Should click. Shift solenoid 1 or A is at the bottom, second one up from the bottom is SSB or S2. Next one up is the line pressure. Top one is TCC, S3 or SSC, depending on who is labeling it. Usually it is a bad solenoid. occassionally it is a bad wire. Never seen a bad computer. DO NOT use Rostra or any cheap Chinese solenoids on this unit. You will be doing them over and over and over.
One more question, you said not to use cheap solenoids for this transmission repair so what brand would you recommend for this application? Thanks in advance for any help
If it is non turbo it is an A340E, if it is, it is an A341E. Very similar. Main differences are the overdrive section, pump and valve body. There are so many variations on this transmission and valve body it is not even funny. You can get yourself into big trouble mismatching parts. Pay close attention and make sure you match every little thing.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I'm a mechanic and have been for over 30 years, took plenty of manual boxes apart but looking at a few videos on UA-cam of these boxes they all seemed to be different I just wasn't sure, you've just confirmed that, thanks, the valve body seems to be the most tricky with balls and valves, the main box doesn't look too bad, just put back the way you found it, I'm not looking forward to it.
@@graemedevine9651 When you get to it. Give me the casting numbers on both halves of the valve body and the separator plate number and I will see if I have the info on it.
I get asked this alot. Never seen a difference one way or the other, so I don't do it. If you feel the need by all means do it. Did it when I first started, been building for 37 years now and not had any issues with it. Thanks for watching.
Hey Great video and awesome to watch this being rebuilt correctly. Question, on the valve body, mine has a gasket as well, is that necessary or not as saw that your didn't use one?
I don't use gaskets on Toyota's, they can cause problems of their own if they are not exactly the same or have swelled in any way. They work fine without them . Never had any problems doing that. Not the only unit I do that on.
I have a question to the creator and would appreciate a response: I followed every step that you gave but at the time of installing in the tundra in the vehicle, it only drives forward even in nutral and it does go in reverse no matter what, could you explain where I could have gone wrong that caused this?
Do you have a Toyota part # for shift solenoid 1? Sorry to ask for it but can’t get much information from my local Toyota parts department. Thanks in advance
No, I don't. Sorry. They may be calling it something else. Could be shift solenoid A, S1, SL1. Looked on Alldata and they do not list anything but the pressure solenoid. Transtar lists it as 85420-22080. But they are saying that both SS1 and 2 are the same and they are not.
Good day po sir ..I'm student and currently as a technician.. can you please give ..if where located the force motor solenoid.( 2 pins green and red or pink color
Thank you ! Transmission just went out and I am developing confidence to tackle this unit. I believe my planetary is gone after a winding noise and sudden lost of power with no reverse. I had too much trans fluid before lost of power. 2002 Toyota tundra 4.7 8cyl..I was getting a Solenoid E error but now it is A..Scared to open this thing up...Your videos are awesome !! @@CurmudgeonTransmission
Please Help!! I just rebuilt my (A3040LE) 2002 Toyota Tundra 4.7 and I keep getting code P0715 Turbine /input Shaft sensor code (replaced with new one but still get the code) truck is slipping, slow to reverse especially once the fluid warms up. Shifts are delayed and I don't seem to make it to 4 gear without feathering the accelerator. Do this sound more of a Valve body problem?
@@jaxj8560 All your problems except for the input speed sensor MAY be in the valve body. Did you have the speed sensor code before overhaul? It's possible you bent the ring on the overdrive planet that the sensor reads off of. You will need to watch the sensor with an oscilloscope.
Thanks so much for the thorough video, mine is in bits at the moment waiting on parts, this will help alot.
Glad I could help. Good luck on your build. Thanks for watching.
excellent video and your good presentation
Thanks
Where does the thrust washer with two prongues go? It looks similar to the bottom one on the planetary gear.
Are we talking about a plastic one? The flat one goes on the back of the planetary. The dished one goes under the sprag that is in the planetary.
This an excellent video and I greatly appreciate your making it. I used it to help me in rebuilding the aw4 for my Jeep. I noticed you mention the metal sealing rings. What trouble did you have when you changed them? Also, have you experienced any trouble with replacement split seals not sealing even though they are properly installed?
Thanks again
To be honest, I don't remember. Back when I first started and went to the seminars, ATSG told us that.So, I have never replaced them. Never had a problem with the others other than fitment. Check them in their bore first. Allowed .009 gap at most..
I am rebuilding a A340F. My kit came with 5 forward clutches but I had 6 in the trans. Also the kit did not come with the 3 little filters for the valve body. any suggestions?
I don't know who you bought your kit from but you might contact them. WIT and Transtar sell them separately. Links are in the description. As far as the filters go. If they are not ripped you can clean them and reuse them. Also they can be left out with no issues.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission - Thank you. if the truck moves when I put it back in you saved me $5,500.
Thanks for your help, the transmission works great. unfortunetly the rebuilt torq converter from NAPA failed within a week. it has a loud whirling sound when in drive and reverse. would you suggest I take a replacement from Napa. I also found a new one from "toyota overstock" for $1,100. the Napa converter was $270.
@@ScottFoley-r7e Personally I would get one from Precision of New Hampton. Link is in the description.
Enjoy watching your work....I'd fear Leaving a paint brush bristle behind
Thanks for watching them. You do have to keep an eye out for it but it rarely looses any.
Thanks!!! , máster
Thanks for watching!
Amazing job you are a genius, thank you very much 👍👍👍
Thanks for watching.
Hi, do you know what the valve body separator plate code id is for your sequoia here? The 2wd?
Also the casting #? I need to know so I can have the proper new valve body sent in for my sequoia.
8938 on the VB for both TV cable and solenoid style. C9 on the separator plate if you have a throttle cable, E17 if it has a solenoid.
Great video! One question, i see you dont torque the bolts. Is it okay if I dont torque them? Does it make a difference?
I get reamed about that all the time. I have been using the same impact for about 25 years now. I know what it feels and sounds like when I am tightening bolts. If you are not confident in your abilities to do that you should use a torque wrench. There are times I still do.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission one more question. The Valve Body, mine has the seperator plate and a black gasket. Do I need to replace the black gasket? I see yours doesnt have one. I have the same transmission as the on in the video. I accendtly made a small crack on the paper blac gasket and toyota is saying it going to take a month to get it.
I don't use gaskets on my Toyota's. They will work fine without them. If you have the ability flat sand both surfaces and the separator plate. If you use a gasket, it is best to match every single hole on a Toyota as there are so many ones with just slight differences in them. Just the gasket being swollen can get you in trouble with them.
Ahhh okay. So you wouldn't recommend putting transmission gasket maker on the small crack on the black gasket instead right. It's better to just remove the entire black gasket and just use the separator plate by itself.
No, I would not do that. If you don't want to take the valve body apart and take the whole thing off, you can trim all the gasket off with a razor blade all the way around, so it sits flat.
Hi , thanks for the great video it was alot of help
i just rebuilt my a340 from my 02 tacoma 4wd
but i am having trouble with overdrive clearance and burnt overdrive up on first drive and it would'nt even shift into 4th but came back to find it burnt the clutches up im not sure whats happening and would greatly appreciate some insight
Thank you .
Alex.
Are they the overdrive brake (large ones in the case) or overdrive direct (ones in the drum)? What was your clearance?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission
These are the overdrive brake clutches large ones in the drum
Mine is a 4 pack clutches with 4 .079 steels and a pressure plate with a 37 stamped on it
It came out with a 079 steel/ friction alternating with a presssure plate on top ATSG states a few combos and piston travels based on specific models
My piston travel was 1.43 mm
Spec 1.4-1.7 mm per ATSG
I burnt up overdrive after only driving a couple of miles and it wouldn’t even shift into 4th gear it threw a p0755 code which had me drop the pan and instantly could smell the burnt and I dropped the valve body and could see the massive clearance and burnt OD brake clutches
I’m wondering if something is wrong in my valve body or what I could have done wrong
Thanks in advance
@@TheStrlx Clearance was fine. We're they burnt before. I think you got a sprag backwards or check ball in the wrong spot.
@@CurmudgeonTransmissionno they were not burnt before the reason for the rebuild is the overdrive planetary came apart
Upon further investigation The OD direct clutches are melted together also
I have decided to tear the transmission down completely from this point
I had 11 check balls and took a photo of their locations and am confident they are back in the right spot but I cannot find a diagram with 11 check balls 10/12 so is it possible I lost one or is their a 11 check ball valve body that I didn’t find the diagram for I was using sonnax vacuum test pdf for my info .
Kind Regards
Give me the casting number on both halves of the VB and the separator plate number and I will see if I have the locations. There are so many variations on this valve body it is not even funny.
Hopefully this translates well to the 4wd transmission. Im going to be rebuilding mine soon, thank you for this! I can tell you have experience. Only with lots of it can you pick through piles of parts and get it together like nothing.
What grease do you use for the orings? Will any moly grease work for holding parts in place like you are doing?
It is the same except the output shaft and tail housing are different. You are not going to want to use moly grease. I use Lubegard assembly goo. It is specially formulated for transmissions. I use the blue for o-rings and green to hold bearings etc. in place. If you don't want to use that you can use transmission fluid for lube and vaseline to hold stuff in place. However, it is not as thick as the green and will not hold them in place as well.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission
Wow thank you for the quick reply! I'll take a look at those you recommended
I do have one more question, why measure the bolt lengths? Is that to check for stretching? Or to make sure they don't bottom out?
Make sure they don't bottom out.
Hi, the first snap ring that goes back in with the beveled edge (at 25:50) i notice you specified bevel toward front which is consistent with the atsg aw4 instructions. Im rebuilding a toyota 30-43le which is similar, has the beveled snap ring, but the toyota instructions do not specify which way the bevel goes and i chose to install the bevel facing back. Im now several steps past that. Would you go back and flip it? The toyota instructions have been pretty clear otherwise, have they left this out because it doesn't actually matter?
You should go back and flip it over. Thanks for watching.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks I did👍 Another detail I noticed in your process (a bit too late for me), with the manual shift rod you left the rooster comb, spring clip, and "spacer" sleeve in place. I had already removed that spacer per the Toyota instructions... to anybody else doing this job for the 1st time: a replacement is not included in the rebuild kit! I believe it's purpose is just to make extra sure the spring pin never falls out. I will be replacing it with a widget from my collection.
I am about to work on a 1989 4wd A340H transmission. It has started to have no reverse in 2wd backing uphill. It will go if in 4wd low. I was planning (hoping) a master rebuild kit for the transmission and transfer case will cure what ails it. Any speculations of what might have gone wrong in there? This was a great video and while the year is different than mine I am guessing things are pretty similar inside. Thanks again!
Only in 2wd and only uphill would make me think it is in the transfer case. Exactly where, not sure. Maybe range fork.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission it has now started to 'shudder' a bit when starting out backing up in 4wd Low. Driving back from town the other day and climbing a grade the transmission did not seem as 'responsive' as in harder to maintain a 45 mph up the grade. I guess the thing to do is get it out of the rig and cleaned up and disassembled. Any obvious signs you would suggest looking for? I read somewhere on the internet that a possible reason it is working in 4wd low is that it takes less pressure to run the reverse gear and that the clutch is slipping at higher pressure. I don't have the expertise to evaluate the truth of that statement. Thanks so much for getting back to me!
I think what they meant was less torque in 4 low. It actually needs more pressure to work reverse than forward. I think it will be obvious what happened when you get in there. I would imagine it started off as the rubber seals getting hard and loosing pressure. It's what usually happens with Toyota's, besides the planetaries coming apart.
Thank you for this great video
i lost all my fluid due to cable speed sensor came loose and trany got over heated
what parts need to be replaceed do you think
its a 30 40le
You are not going to know till you get in there. Bare minimum, kit with clutches, band and filter.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you sir
Congratulations sir u are intelligent after u is me in Africa
Greetings from America. Thanks for watching.
At about 1:06:48 you are plugging in connectors for a harness I broke that harness and need to replace it. Does anyone know exactly what it’s called?
Internal wiring harness.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you I found it
Hi..do you have vidio for the A650e trans rebuild..(ls400 vvti) please
Soon
Great video but I sat and watched the whole thing and it didn’t cover what I was interested in which was the shift solenoids. I have a 1998 Toyota Tacoma 4 wheel drive that is giving problems. Sometimes when I put it in drive it doesn’t take the gear. I can start off in low and shift to second then drive and it works fine even when pulling a trailer. It’s pulling a PO753 code. Any suggestions?
Check out the 1 hour 30 mark in the video. P0753 is shift solenoid A electrical. Should measure 10-14 Ohms. Can also check them using 12 volts. Should click. Shift solenoid 1 or A is at the bottom, second one up from the bottom is SSB or S2. Next one up is the line pressure. Top one is TCC, S3 or SSC, depending on who is labeling it. Usually it is a bad solenoid. occassionally it is a bad wire. Never seen a bad computer. DO NOT use Rostra or any cheap Chinese solenoids on this unit. You will be doing them over and over and over.
Thanks
One more question, you said not to use cheap solenoids for this transmission repair so what brand would you recommend for this application? Thanks in advance for any help
@@geraldvineyard2271 Toyota
Great video thanks, how similar is that box to an A340E 30-40LE from a N/A mk4 Supra its 1993 one of the first ones?
If it is non turbo it is an A340E, if it is, it is an A341E. Very similar. Main differences are the overdrive section, pump and valve body. There are so many variations on this transmission and valve body it is not even funny. You can get yourself into big trouble mismatching parts. Pay close attention and make sure you match every little thing.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I'm a mechanic and have been for over 30 years, took plenty of manual boxes apart but looking at a few videos on UA-cam of these boxes they all seemed to be different I just wasn't sure, you've just confirmed that, thanks, the valve body seems to be the most tricky with balls and valves, the main box doesn't look too bad, just put back the way you found it, I'm not looking forward to it.
@@graemedevine9651 When you get to it. Give me the casting numbers on both halves of the valve body and the separator plate number and I will see if I have the info on it.
You will be glad you went with Transtec. I will need the casting numbers on both halves as well as the separator plate number, to get the right info.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks, it might be a week or 2 maybe a month before I tackle it, it'll be 2 weeks until the kit arrives.
Why you didn't soak the friction discs for 15 min in the ATF before assembly?
I get asked this alot. Never seen a difference one way or the other, so I don't do it. If you feel the need by all means do it. Did it when I first started, been building for 37 years now and not had any issues with it. Thanks for watching.
Hey Great video and awesome to watch this being rebuilt correctly. Question, on the valve body, mine has a gasket as well, is that necessary or not as saw that your didn't use one?
I don't use gaskets on Toyota's, they can cause problems of their own if they are not exactly the same or have swelled in any way. They work fine without them . Never had any problems doing that. Not the only unit I do that on.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission really appreciate your quick reply and advice. thank you
Hey mate wondering if you know much about custom torque converters for these transmissions
@@Fwb2700 No I don't, but I have a friend that has a converter shop. Ask your question and I will see if I can get you an answer.
Excuse me Can you show me the orings for acumalator please 🙏.
Or send me a link for buy a new ones .
Get them from WIT or Transtar, links in the description.
What manufacturer (brand) do you recommend for rebuild - gasket kits, discs, friction discs, bushings and so on? I mean A30-40LE gearbox particularly.
ua-cam.com/video/S03l-ZEVyww/v-deo.html One thing I left out was the brand of clutches. Raybestos or Borg Warner.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks!
I have a question to the creator and would appreciate a response:
I followed every step that you gave but at the time of installing in the tundra in the vehicle, it only drives forward even in nutral and it does go in reverse no matter what, could you explain where I could have gone wrong that caused this?
I believe you probably missed the manual valve alignment on the linkage.
Do you have a Toyota part # for shift solenoid 1? Sorry to ask for it but can’t get much information from my local Toyota parts department. Thanks in advance
No, I don't. Sorry. They may be calling it something else. Could be shift solenoid A, S1, SL1. Looked on Alldata and they do not list anything but the pressure solenoid. Transtar lists it as 85420-22080. But they are saying that both SS1 and 2 are the same and they are not.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks anyway just trying to repair without paying Dealer labor cost. They are outrageous.
Добрый день,можешь подсказать ремкомплект для 30-40le toyota Cresta jzx90 задний привод
Transtec with Raybestos clutches. Get it from WIT or Transtar. Links are in the description.
@@CurmudgeonTransmissionспасибо тебе!
А номер набора существует чтоб купить одним лотом?
Depends on what you want in your kit. They have several different ones. Transtar has an online catalouge.
Thank you!!!!
Thanks for watching
Good day po sir ..I'm student and currently as a technician.. can you please give ..if where located the force motor solenoid.( 2 pins green and red or pink color
It is the largest solenoid in there. It is almost in the middle of the side and the only one that has 2 wires going to it.
You have two install lubes. What is the difference with the two ?
Thickness. I use the green to hold things in place, blue to lube seals.
Thank you ! Transmission just went out and I am developing confidence to tackle this unit. I believe my planetary is gone after a winding noise and sudden lost of power with no reverse. I had too much trans fluid before lost of power. 2002 Toyota tundra 4.7 8cyl..I was getting a Solenoid E error but now it is A..Scared to open this thing up...Your videos are awesome !! @@CurmudgeonTransmission
@@jaxj8560 Thanks. Planetary damage is the most common failure on them.
Please Help!! I just rebuilt my (A3040LE) 2002 Toyota Tundra 4.7 and I keep getting code P0715 Turbine /input Shaft sensor code (replaced with new one but still get the code) truck is slipping, slow to reverse especially once the fluid warms up. Shifts are delayed and I don't seem to make it to 4 gear without feathering the accelerator. Do this sound more of a Valve body problem?
@@jaxj8560 All your problems except for the input speed sensor MAY be in the valve body. Did you have the speed sensor code before overhaul? It's possible you bent the ring on the overdrive planet that the sensor reads off of. You will need to watch the sensor with an oscilloscope.
How much do you charge to do one of these?
I don't do the pricing. With the way the price of parts has got, I don't know. Used to be around 2200-2800 depending on the damage.
Sir who about the 30_43 this 4*4
Still the same family transmission. The internals will be very similar. The valve body layout will be different.
Grate boss
Thanks
❤
Thanks
Iam have a toyota 4speed 2008.
Iaos.
Soy mecánico especializado