Very good in depth instructions mate... thanks. Still getting my head around the different installations. Cant seem to understand it right. Might watch again and slow it down a bit lol.
Hey mate, thanks for the video very helpful. Just to confirm Anderson plug from main battery all thr way through to the back. (Caravan has 30ah dc charger) And vehicle dc charger to auxiliary.
Hey mate, Glad the videos have been helpful. Most dcdc chargers have a built isolator so if your does then yer standard Anderson no isolator straight from the main battery.
@@AussieDrifterTouring, thanks for the video. Great explanation. May I just clarify? If the DCDC charger in the caravan has an isolator inbuilt, it will stop the charge draw as soon as the car ignition is off even though the alternator wire (of the DCDC charge in the caravan) is NOT connected. Correct?
@@atgraceonyoutube8769 correct and that method works fine on all standard or temperature compensating alternators but it doesn't work so well on variable voltage (smart) alternators as the dcdc charger will cut out while driving when the voltage drops below 12.6v.
@@AussieDrifterTouring , Thanks. I have exactly this - A smart alternator in my car. So, looking for the best solution to connect to the DCDC in the caravan (via Anderson). Also, just to be safe, in case something else is connected to the Anderson at the back of the car so as not to drain the battery, I was thinking of installing the battery isolator suitable for the smart alternator.
Hey mate great video, i have a jayco trailer with it's own jhub system but when i travel the batteries do not charge. So i am wanting to do this. If i added a dcdc to the van and ran anderson from dcdc in van to the cars anderson as this video just displayed to charge it would it affect the jhub system already in the van or should it be fine?
I'm new to this stuff so I'm still trying to understand the isolator. I'm buying a new Ford Bronco and towing a Patriot Campers X3 with the Redarc tech package. I think that means that my trailer has the BCDC but the Bronco does not. Do i need the isolator?
The depends on the car but a Toyota like this one has electrical harness running the length of the car inside the chassis rail so you can just follow those.
Very good, I'm going to do this; I assume the anderson plug is live 12v the hole time, is this a problem if water gets in to the plug? is there a way to have it on the ignition or am I over thinking it all.. thanks
Hi Peter, Yer you can put an isolator on and we have kits that include an isolator. Whether it's needed or not really depends on what it's running in the camper. This video explaines it furter ua-cam.com/video/cMlATrUyvtA/v-deo.html
Thanks - looking to put one of of these for an itechworld DCDC40 on my camper trailer. I already have your redarc auxillary kit for LC200, so would i be best to connect this from the starter battery, and then run down the passenger side to rear of vehicle?
hi mate, Yer that's correct you would want to run that from the main battery and you would want to go for the 4B&S cable size if your running the 40 amp charger.
Hi mate, great video, but can I ask you anymore details ? I just picked up a next-gen Ranger Wildtrak which built-in electric brake system, but no dual battery and DCDC... I need to DIY an Anderson Plug for Jayco caravan. Is it ok to stack the anderson power on battery directly like you did in this video ?
Hey mate could you run a Anderson plug like this to a second removable battery? That acts as a dual battery system when the Anderson plug is in the battery
If I only have a DCDC charger in the Campervan but NOT between the Crank and Deep cycle under the bonnet of the Landcruiser...should I run my Anderson kit off the Deep Cycle or the Cranker? I have a 97 Landcruiser so it's the old-style (non-smart) alternator. Many thanks
Hi mate. the battery terminal is a good option but there is no harm going to the chassis as well and that may be the best option on a car with a variable voltage alternator as the negative must be connected body side of that module. With a standard alternator car though the negative terminal would be the best option if there is room.
@@AussieDrifterTouring thanks for the info. I have a Prado 150 and noticed the elecs haven’t sent any of the negatives back to the battery. Previously I always went back to the battery but figured it was a smart alternator thing.
My camper is running the redarc bms and redvision would the 6bms cable be ok? Also I drive an MQ triton would the kit with the isolator be the better option?
Hi mate, its right on the verge of needing to upgrade due to the length. you could go the 4 b&s to future proof it a bit but plenty of our customers are using the 6b&s fine with the bms system. You shouldn't need an isolator mate as the bms has an inbuilt isolator. Your car should have a fixed voltage alternator but here is a link to a video that shows an bay way to tell ua-cam.com/video/pOs7p-InF2o/v-deo.html
Your choice of anderson has a lot to do with how the camper is setup. Check out this video it might help explain some things mate ua-cam.com/video/cMlATrUyvtA/v-deo.html
Very good in depth instructions mate... thanks. Still getting my head around the different installations. Cant seem to understand it right. Might watch again and slow it down a bit lol.
Ha. no worries mate, glad they videos are helping.
Hey mate, thanks for the video very helpful.
Just to confirm Anderson plug from main battery all thr way through to the back. (Caravan has 30ah dc charger)
And vehicle dc charger to auxiliary.
Hey mate, Glad the videos have been helpful. Most dcdc chargers have a built isolator so if your does then yer standard Anderson no isolator straight from the main battery.
@@AussieDrifterTouring, thanks for the video. Great explanation. May I just clarify? If the DCDC charger in the caravan has an isolator inbuilt, it will stop the charge draw as soon as the car ignition is off even though the alternator wire (of the DCDC charge in the caravan) is NOT connected. Correct?
@@atgraceonyoutube8769 correct and that method works fine on all standard or temperature compensating alternators but it doesn't work so well on variable voltage (smart) alternators as the dcdc charger will cut out while driving when the voltage drops below 12.6v.
@@AussieDrifterTouring , Thanks. I have exactly this - A smart alternator in my car. So, looking for the best solution to connect to the DCDC in the caravan (via Anderson). Also, just to be safe, in case something else is connected to the Anderson at the back of the car so as not to drain the battery, I was thinking of installing the battery isolator suitable for the smart alternator.
@@atgraceonyoutube8769 Yer that would be a good idea, glad it was helpful
Thanks for the video, you answered my questions.
Glad it was helpful mate 👍
Top Job beautiful presentation thanks for sharing 🌟👍
No worries, thanks for the feedback
Hey mate great video, i have a jayco trailer with it's own jhub system but when i travel the batteries do not charge. So i am wanting to do this. If i added a dcdc to the van and ran anderson from dcdc in van to the cars anderson as this video just displayed to charge it would it affect the jhub system already in the van or should it be fine?
I'm new to this stuff so I'm still trying to understand the isolator. I'm buying a new Ford Bronco and towing a Patriot Campers X3 with the Redarc tech package. I think that means that my trailer has the BCDC but the Bronco does not. Do i need the isolator?
U didn't show underneath what side of chassis rail did you mount wiring to outside or inside rail
The depends on the car but a Toyota like this one has electrical harness running the length of the car inside the chassis rail so you can just follow those.
Very good, I'm going to do this; I assume the anderson plug is live 12v the hole time, is this a problem if water gets in to the plug? is there a way to have it on the ignition or am I over thinking it all.. thanks
Hi Peter, Yer you can put an isolator on and we have kits that include an isolator. Whether it's needed or not really depends on what it's running in the camper. This video explaines it furter ua-cam.com/video/cMlATrUyvtA/v-deo.html
Thanks - looking to put one of of these for an itechworld DCDC40 on my camper trailer. I already have your redarc auxillary kit for LC200, so would i be best to connect this from the starter battery, and then run down the passenger side to rear of vehicle?
hi mate, Yer that's correct you would want to run that from the main battery and you would want to go for the 4B&S cable size if your running the 40 amp charger.
Is there a part number for the 7m battery to Anderson cable?
Here is a link to the product mate www.aussiedriftertouring.com.au/shop/andersonplugdiykit
Hi mate, great video, but can I ask you anymore details ? I just picked up a next-gen Ranger Wildtrak which built-in electric brake system, but no dual battery and DCDC... I need to DIY an Anderson Plug for Jayco caravan. Is it ok to stack the anderson power on battery directly like you did in this video ?
Hi Mate, not sure exactly what your referring to sorry but happy to chat about it if you want to give me a call my number is 0413970616. thanks Kurt
Hey mate could you run a Anderson plug like this to a second removable battery? That acts as a dual battery system when the Anderson plug is in the battery
Hi max, yer you could use it to run a portable dual battery kit.
If you already have a winch power going to that positive battery terminal is it ok to stack the anderson power on top of it?
Yer mate that will be fine
If I only have a DCDC charger in the Campervan but NOT between the Crank and Deep cycle under the bonnet of the Landcruiser...should I run my Anderson kit off the Deep Cycle or the Cranker? I have a 97 Landcruiser so it's the old-style (non-smart) alternator. Many thanks
Hi Paul. Best to run the anderson off the main battery in your case mate
Dumb question - is it better to chassis mount the negative?
Hi mate. the battery terminal is a good option but there is no harm going to the chassis as well and that may be the best option on a car with a variable voltage alternator as the negative must be connected body side of that module. With a standard alternator car though the negative terminal would be the best option if there is room.
@@AussieDrifterTouring thanks for the info. I have a Prado 150 and noticed the elecs haven’t sent any of the negatives back to the battery. Previously I always went back to the battery but figured it was a smart alternator thing.
what was the loos wire right hand side at the end of the vid.?
Nothing to do with the anderson kit. It’s just another accessory we took off to make this video of the anderson kit.
My camper is running the redarc bms and redvision would the 6bms cable be ok? Also I drive an MQ triton would the kit with the isolator be the better option?
Hi mate, its right on the verge of needing to upgrade due to the length. you could go the 4 b&s to future proof it a bit but plenty of our customers are using the 6b&s fine with the bms system. You shouldn't need an isolator mate as the bms has an inbuilt isolator. Your car should have a fixed voltage alternator but here is a link to a video that shows an bay way to tell ua-cam.com/video/pOs7p-InF2o/v-deo.html
Hi, I have a 2020 ranger. What anderson plug kit do you recommend. Powering a enerdrive 40a DC-DC charger in van
Cheers .
Your choice of anderson has a lot to do with how the camper is setup. Check out this video it might help explain some things mate ua-cam.com/video/cMlATrUyvtA/v-deo.html