Converting M4 CCB's to Steel Rotors! (Why I Downgraded?!)
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- Опубліковано 4 вер 2024
- The time has finally come and I downgraded the rotors from Carbon Ceramic to Iron Disc. Break in procedure below!
"From 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.
Make eight to ten near-stops from 60mph to about 20 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph, then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely, with your foot on the brake pedal, pad material will be imprinted onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration and uneven braking.
The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.
After the last near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a few minutes, using the brakes as little as possible to allow them to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still hot.
If full race pads, such as Hawk DTC-70 or Performance Friction PFC11 are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 20 mph."
Part Number Part Name Price Quantity Total
34-11-8-072-018 Rotor $328.92 1 $328.92
34-11-8-072-017 Rotor $328.92 1 $328.92
34-11-8-072-019 Rotor $227.79 1 $227.79
34-11-8-072-020 Rotor $227.79 1 $227.79
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So why did you downgrade?
When I saw them last weekend I was surprised you downgraded them but totally understand why. This calipers still look 🔥
They still look great.
Appreciate that! Bright side of the downgrade haha
Did the same thing on my M4CS & M4 Comp cab, they chatter when there cold , you don’t get the bite either when there wet, you can’t drive all the time warning the brakes up!
100%
Did you explain why? You didn’t get to the point
it was mentioned. I'm probably going to follow up on it. but pretty much with tracking the car it makes more sense to replace steel rotors instead of replacing CCB's every 6-10 HARD track days.
It’s not really a downgrade a good 2 piece vented cast iron rotor will be far cheaper to run if your tracking your car plus pad options for cast irons are massive so you can really fine tuned the brake feel carbon ceramic are good for the street they have very good fade resistance and very long lasting most of which will outlast your car if you don’t track the car.
Great info! Not that hard to change brakes on these cars! Upgrading in the amount of brake dust hahah
Please note that Rebrake build the friction layer of this discs at a fraction of the cost of new and similar cost to cast iron conversion. Also, if the car came with CCB, many times the master cylinder and the ECU programming are not the same as cast iron.
Lol the rebuilt is way more than irons, my full iron swap was under 1k
Iron brakes come in many price point levels. At the equivalent cast iron BBK to CCB, cast iron is for an M4 is more than $1K. For a track day usage, cast iron BBK is thousands of dollars. For a street use, CCB do not degrade significantly so no need to swap.
@@rebrakeusa it depends on street driving style, my rotors were pretty much on edge of life by 60-70k and the pads the previous owner wasnt replacing at 50% to increase life of rotors. the iron rotors from BMW m2's are right around 1k for all 4 if you look on the right sites. if you wanna upgrade to girodisc its 1200 a pair... still significantly cheaper than any CCB rotor setup. there is a reason why most BMW/Porsche track guys rather run iron's and swap those rather than getting a max of 5-6 GOOD track days in CCB's and having to replace them.
Your are making valid points. The Rebrake Friction Layer (RFL) is the newest technology bonded to the M4 base CCB rotor and lasts up to 4 times than the original M4 CCB (depending on the M4 year). It is similar but better then the PCCB friction layer. It is important to note that an M4 that came with CCB has a different master cylinder and ECU programming than cast iron. So for aggressive street driver such as yourself, or track day usage, the conversion is more than just installing grey cast iron rotor.
@@rebrakeusa yea the brake booster you can just actually code the car to the “steel” configuration. Since bmw actually does offer the conversion to iron internally. But they don’t swap the booster
Right rotor was installed on the left side.
nope
its great to have such a detailed video introduction, have you tried the hawk dtc series brake pad? Can you share the part number or size of you know anything about it? I had a hard time to find the right one 😂
No to the hawks, but heard hawks aren’t great for our platform. But this is what I eventually switched to since the oem pads ended up being horrible
1x Ferodo DS2500 Brake Pads BMW M2 Competition F87 | CS F80 Iron Discs 2015-2021
Great info man. I may need to do this for my M4 CS in the future. What exact Brake Pads did you use?
@quietfiend so I used some cheapo pagid ones but tbh they were terrible and my rotors instantly got pad deposits in them, I ended up getting ds2500 track/street pads which honestly have zero noise and relatively low dust. They do have great bite tho, similar to the Carbon rotors/pads, so i'm pretty happy with these new ds2500 pads.
@@tauzins Thanks man 🙏! Dang and here I was thinking of running Pagid pads too lol. Do you remember which Pagid ones you used? Also when doing the CCB to Iron rotors you have to also run M2C specific pads right?? Just want to make sure.
Love the build btw. Will definitely follow this channel closely.
@@quietfiend7669 they were the cheap oem style ones not the pagid track ones. And yes you run the pads for m2 comp
@@tauzins Thanks so much for the info! Could you please confirm the pad SKUs? I ordered the rotors, but can't find much on the exact DS2500 pads for the 6 pot/4 pot (Using my F82 CCB calipers). I see the link to hpashop with these-- Front: FCP4712H Rear: FCP1281H for ~$920. Are those right?
@@drpuffles86 www.vividracing.com/shopping_cart_checkout.php?&cartdata=eyIxNTQ4OTk0MzciOnsicXR5IjoxLCJwYWNrYWdlX2F0dHJpYnV0ZXMiOltdfX0&Email7200
Here you go!
did you use standard m4 rotors and pads? If not what did you use? Any CPU changes or booter or anything else? Just found out the size difference is just 2mm and the rotors and pads to use are the M2 Competition parts. Is that what you used?
I used the pads from m2 but they ended up giving me issues, so I go Ferodo track pads and been happy.
You probably just added 10 pounds per wheel
I believe a little more but I don’t remember exactly now.
@@tauzins I’m sure that had a negative impact on track times no?
@@robdswingingcrypto6228 realistically for someone like me I doubt it would make that big of a difference for a pro sure
Part numers for the M2 rotors? I see you used PADIG pads as well, just regular M2 pads? Looking to do this on my 2018 M3cs w/ CCB
Just saw this I’ll post up all the part numbers I purchased
Posted the parts in description for you.
Thanks for the video, 2 questions:
1) I have an M5 with CCB, I am guessing I can use the current CCB calipers and downgrade as well?
2) my rear brakes pads seems to have some play, and it's causing a clicking sound, do you know if they make shims for those to hold it in place just like you showed in the video for your front brakes?
Hey man! I think you ended up talking to me on Instagram, If not I'll give you what I told that person.
Hi! How did you get the 4 piston calipers at the back ? I thought all bmw cars come with one piston caliper at the back.
So i have the CCB setup on my car which is the same as the m2comp, you can order the m2 comp calipers and do a direct swap over. you'll need the m2 rotors also though.
You never said why
Sorry probably got caught up, so pretty much my ccb rotors were near end of life, and the steel rotors are much cheaper to replace over time especially if you plan on tracking the car like I do
So all you did was a just swap pads and rotors ? I have a 2021 g80 and I got the carbon ceramics but I want to go back to steels. Not sure if it’s the same process as this
so yea on the g80's luckily they are exactly the same, for me I had to use m2 comp brake rotors since oem f80 rotors don't have the larger rotor size.
but you'll just get the oem steel rotors/pads and then more than likely require a additional coding just so it applies the correct pressure.
How much is the diference betwen ccs and steel disc
In terms of stopping power?
Did you have to change the brake booster?
I did not, but you can actually code the brake booster for iron rotors instead of the Carbon Ceramics
Why ? 🤷🏻♂️
Now I’m be thinking why …. lol
lol looking back I should've explained more, I need to post a follow up
What does homeboy keep dropping ?
no clue LOL
Sheesh damn I'm good lol I don't think you downgraded, brake dust isn't all that bad 🤣