5 Tips to Shoot NIGHT Photos on FILM
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
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a classic Sunday appointment for me: Williem's video. awesome as usual
🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
Willem*
Using a digital camera as a visual lightmeter is also a good way to get the exposure right.
oh do you mean like set exposure with your digital camera, then copy that over to your film cameras settings?
@@UNDAMedia Yes. Take a picture with your digital camera and when you're happy with the exposure take those settings to your film camera and possibly add more time to account for the reciprocity failure.
When you "take a reading" with your digital camera remember to ignore the blown highlights and concentrate more on the midtones.
@@UNDAMedia that doesn’t give an accurate reading to long exposure shots on film due to reciprocity failure which he goes over in the video
A spot meter is more accurate than another camera
@@nickfanzo That's factually incorrect, because most spot meters are next to useless in really dark shooting situations.
I just bought a medium format camera because of u! thanks for the inspiration man!
Same
Picked mine back up for the first time in a bit
So stoked to hear that! Have fun shooting it :))
andykmpark same here 🤘🏻
Kaimar Tauri Tamm also same haha
I've actually had pretty good luck using my phone at night. I've used the myLIGHTMETER Pro app with Cinestill 800t and I think Portra 400. I'd like to shoot a roll and compare it with my sekonic meter. It'd be interesting to see how they stack up.
I see Willem I drop everything and watch.
😂❤️
Yes! My favorite thing about Sunday’s, your videos.
Willem you’re such an inspiration. Thank you.
My phone has manual camera settings, so to meter I just take test exposures on the phone. I also have an exposure calculator app so I can transpose my phone's F/1.8 exposures to my camera's F/16 exposures, and so on. I like phone metering - I can zoom in on specific parts of the scene and it'll tell me the exposure for those too.
Normally watch this before lunch but had a long day and got to watch this sippin' on my evening coffee. Coincidentally, taking my 'blad to a mall tonight just at closing to work on my series. Thanks for the tips and awesome shots!
Just bought a tripod and shutter release cable, perfect timing for this content! Cheers
FYI If you screw the cable release into the lens of the RZ you can use this to trip the shutter and the regular shutter button becomes a mirror pre-release,
always coming through on a Sunday to get me inspired before a shoot! even if you think you're a small photographer you're one of my biggest inspirations
That’s the best to hear!! Thank you 🙏🏼❤️
Awesome! I love your shots from Wildwood! especially the sunset ones. that colour is amazing!
Can you do a video on your modified polaroid back?
Maybe in the future yes :)
Willem Verbeeck been waiting on this video since you teased it a while ago
amazing but where do you get your super 8 film developed?
was just wondering the same thing actually
Hahahaha
Super impressive! It's so satisfying to see these photos that are perfectly exposed with beautiful colors.
You're a champion young man. well done from Australia
Oh how blessed we all are to have a youtuber like yourself spittin all this film knowledge at us
5:14 the jam kicks in. Love it.
I just have a really important question :
How many Carhartt tee’s do you have ?
Number of photos shot ^120
Aa always a pleasure to watch your videos. I have an exam tomorrow and this really helped calm me down. Thanks Willem.
I just binged watched you videos. your channel is amazing
I am really excited to see how clean the files look. Yes they come from a tri pod but with digital you can actually see some noise in long exposures
I think if you keep iso low on digital they should come out smoother. Longer speeds though
6:22 is still my favorite photo of the night batch. So sick!
Thank you!!
You inspired me to buy my first film camera and for that I thank you! 🙏👏
Greetings from Holland Willem! Obviously you have to take note of what exact settings you use, to see later when you have the photo’s and learn from what you have done. Could you show how you take these notes? What do you record and how? How do you evaluate?
I like your films a lot!
JUST CAME BACK FROM WORK TO FIND A NEW WILLEM VIDEO! YERRRRRRR
1:01 i like how he talked on beat
I’m glad to see you’re at f8 or above for most of these shots
It makes me feel like I have a clue about film photography😁
Like the long exposures look, mood and stillness of the night shots. 👍 Looking forward to Mexico City shots. It's a big city. Do you have particular locations you'll be scouting? 🤔
Hi, Willem! I can't find original video from 0:45. A couple of weeks ago It was on the channel, and now it has disappeared. Did you delete it?
Reciprocity only clicked for me when I looked up the physics - essential each silver halide crystal on your film needs x amount of photons / unit time to be "activated". So it really is more related to the amount of light available, not the time you expose
I read that the aperture is going to be the most important thing when considering night photography. The extended exposure time doesn't do much if you're aperture isn't wide enough to get that initial light to begin with.
When using a view camera all you need to do is meter for shadows and then cut development for the lights on the street. Easy
You can do the same thing for roll Film if you shoot the roll during the same light conditions
Filming my second video this week while on vacation. Using my AE-1 from when I was a teen and my uncles Argus C3. I will now have to do some night photography with them after seeing this.
i always love your videos! everything is so clean and crisp & just soothing.❤️🙌🏼
Awesome Video like always !
I've been trying to do more night time stuff on film, thanks for making this one homie
was just shooting last night on my nikon f3... can't wait to see how they come out
I'm planning to shoot a night photography project for school on my RB67 but I need to get a tripod first so this was really helpful
I would definitely love to see you try some Cinestill 800T at night
-PLEASE READ THIS-
I started film this year and night time was very difficult. I was shooting regular 200 and 400 iso. So if you have higher iso like 800 this won’t be as necessary. But By far the most important things are
1. A tripod, anything to keep it stable. The slow shutter speeds will make any movement even vibrations blurry
2. A cable release. The act of pressing the button will cause your camera to move or vibrate making things blurry.
3. A lenses that has an aperture of at least 2 or less. Anything larger like 22 will be impossible without extremely high iso
You really don’t need a lens with F/2 or less to shoot at night.
You can basically have an infinitely long shutter speed when using a tripod and cable release, so aperture becomes kinda irrelevant. \
Actually, most people like to shoot around F/8 even at night, because that’s where most lenses are at their sharpest, and you get some nice flares from light sources.
The only time you’d really NEED an ultra fast lens lower than F/2.8 (excluding when you need it because you’re going shallow DoF of course) is if you wanna do handheld stuff in low light. With very fast lenses under F/2.8, you’ll be able to shoot around that half-of-focal-length shutter speed (which is the about minimum before you get motion blur caused by handholding) in much darker conditions.
Many medium format lenses, like those for the RB, don’t even go below 3.5 or so. And that’s no problem at all.
That third point should really be reciprocity failure. Know what is is, and how to work with it. Else you’ll be underexposing your long exposures.
Thanks for sharing your experience!Love your pictures
Come to Mérida México please, do a fan meet up.
Great videos as always, but a newby question here:
When you use your lightmeter, do you push the film, like using an iso 400 film, set it to 100 or 200 on the camera? And if you do so, do you give the lightmeter then 400 or 100/200 iso value to get the correct time? Maybe this question is stupid af, but just curious.
Maybe someone could help, thank you.
Willem, awesome images again!
Hi, what an amazing video. Keep up the amazing work! I look forward to your next video.
When I was shooting film on a regular basis over ten years ago, I did lots of night photography on 35mm (usually slide film.) Though I never used a light meter for night city scenes. When using 100asa film, I would select f11 and bracket my exposure times from about 15 - 30 seconds in half stops. Worked every time for the film stocks I was using - Fujichrome Sensia and Provia.
I did obtain a medium format camera (a Koni Omega Rapid) for landscapes. I got some very nice images from that camera but it did have reliability issues which were pretty frustrating at times. And that was years ago. I'd like to get back into medium format again with a new camera (for both landscapes and urban night scenes) and I certainly like what the Mamiyas have to offer.
I've been shooting nights for around 5 years now using a Nikon F, I'm surprised you got results using slide film considering its infamously difficult to get a correct exposure even during the day. That being said I often use it myself although it is very challenging. I also used a Mamiya RZ67 but I wouldn't recommend it. Too heavy and too unreliable for night time work.
@@upcomingcloudrapperluca7645 Like I said above, I always bracketed my exposures for night photography. For slide film, I bracket in half stops and with neg film, I bracket in whole stops. Generally, for daytime photography, I would usually shoot on slide film. The majority of my exposures would turn out fine (using manual exposure) though every now and then, I would stuff it up.
@@upcomingcloudrapperluca7645 I should also mention that slide film was the medium of choice for professional photographers who shot for books, magazines and other print publications. So there would be millions of slides of night time city scenes that were exposed over many decades all over the world. Definitely no magic involved in getting correct exposures at night on transparency film. Just bracket widely and you'll be fine.
Speaking of unreliable medium format cameras, I used to shoot with a Koni Omega Rapid. I got some nice images from that camera (all shot on slide film) but I also had a number of frustrating experiences with it. I'm hoping that a Mamiya RB67 would be more reliable.
@@anzaeria I currently use a spot meter and have no issues with slide film. I use it for university projects at the moment and I am often told by older tutors the difficulties of shooting slide at night, that's where I'm getting my notion from. Good to speak with someone like yourself though. May I ask were you assigned such photographic projects or was it more of your own ambition to take such images?
I was looking at a Koni Omega Rapid the other week, they seem to sell for decent prices considering most medium format cameras have sky rocketed in recent years. By the sounds of things you enjoy film photography and have practiced it for many years, why not just pick up a Hasselblad?
@@upcomingcloudrapperluca7645 That is indeed a strange thing for your older tutors to say that slide film is difficult to expose properly at night. I don't recall ever experiencing that issue myself.
A lot of my photography was done as a hobby though occasionally, I make some money out of it. Yea the Koni Omega Rapid would likely be the cheapest medium format camera system with interchangeable lenses. I did have a landscape image I shot with the Koni Omega that won Second Prize at a 2008 art exhibition. And that same image also sold at the very same exhibition for $230. That photo also won a contest organised by a photographic magazine. Not too bad for an old camera that I got cheaply on eBay. Nevertheless, if I was going to shoot medium format again, I would select a camera system that is more reliable and hassle-free. The Hasselblads are very nice indeed but too pricey for me. Plus they shoot 6 x 6. Although a square composition can look really nice with certain images, most of the time I prefer a horizontal image so I would be cropping quite a bit of the image area. Whereas a 6 x 7cm frame would be considerably larger than an equivalent crop from 6 x 6cm.
a spot meter helps in the night as you can aim for a certain darkness of fe a grey wall instead of relying on general values.
once again super helpful tips man, thanks again!
Video on the Polaroid back would be awesome!
Mooie foto’s Willem 👏🏽👏🏽😘
Great Video, thanks a lot! Would you recommend using an FL-D Filter against the greenish tint that can occur?
Oh Willem uploaded. What a pleasant feed refresh.
(newer subscriber, so sorry if this gets asked a lot) When shooting a house, have you ever had any confrontations? And if so, how do you handle them?
Graphs are so important to understand the scientific aspects of film
Great video and even better shots.
Love that area and checked it out on google maps
Where did you get the idea to shoot there and did you stay overt a couple of days ??
Ahh I always forget the fundamentals while shooting at night. Thanks for posting this! SUPER HELPFUL
came here to figure out when to use the light dome and when to slide it away. thanks!
very informative! love the shots. Keep posting.
Thank you, your videos are very helpful and inspiring for amateur photographers!! It would be nice if you could give more often information about aperture and shutter speed of your photos.
me hopping on this vid with my B&W film loaded:
well shit
I can't find your original video on night photography. It is the one you referenced in this video where you demonstrated your technique in the Buger King parking lot. I found it to be really helpful when I first watched it and I was looking it up again to refresh my memory. It was a really good starter video on film night photography and it was what got me to subscribe to your channel. This video is super helpful also, but I think you would agree that you wouldn't have referenced the previous video if it wasn't useful. If you deleted it you should put it back up.
Very usefull tips, thanks a lot
Have you tried Ilford Delta 3200 for B&W night photography? It’s allegedly the fastest b&w film so I’d imagine it’d be great.
Interestingly, my favorite film for night work is B&W. Fuji Acros.
clearest audio on youtube bro.
time to get a medium format for myself!
starting night time photography because this dude
Very useful video Willem, thank you!
Let me ask a question: if you want to take a nighttime photo, without a special object in focus (you want to have the whole scene in focus), so you shoot at f8-11-16, where do you focus with the lens? Thanks for the answe and keep up the good work!
Look up "hyperfocal distance" if you want to get really technical about this; otherwise, focus about 1/3 of the way into the scene if you want the entire scene in focus.
I look forward to your uploads, I'm so happy I found out about your channel amazing work! Oh and one more thing would you make merch soon?
Love the shots! 😍
Fine job thanks for sharing
Nice video, I want to do some night film photography, but don't have such a lightmeter. Do you have any tips on how to do it without one? Maybe with a lightmeter app or nothing at all?
I'm in love with the pic at 0:28
Yayy my Sunday morning is made!!
hi willem, can you make a video about using a light meter please? i am confused on how to use it and been trying to learn more, if you can. thank you:)
Try slide (color positive) film for night photography. Much better reciprocity. Check out Greg Girard.
bananafreakingidiot if he’s ruling out b&w as a whole for its alleged diminished latitude, I don’t think he’ll enjoy the idea of slide film
everything just looks better at night~
5 Tips for scooter photography next pls.
Great tips - Thanks for posting
Awesome video Willem! Do you shoot at box speed? Or change the Iso?
I don’t know if anybody has mentioned it yet, but if you would rather just extend the exposure time rather than adjusting by stops to compensate for Reciprocity Failure then you can calculate the extended duration with a simple equation. All you do is take the amount of seconds your meter gives you, then just raise it to the 1.34 power and round it. For example: say your meter says 8 seconds. If you raise it to the 1.34 power then that gives you 16.22. So if you round that number then your final exposure time would come out to 16 seconds. (Again this only works for Portra 160 and Portra 400)
Stops is the result of going up and and down the exposure triangle, describing how much light is captured. This can be done by changing aperture, shutter speed or ISO
Wow its funny, i wanted to take long exposures on my rb67. Now this came out! Awesome
I can perfectly hand hold down to 1/8s on my 35mm RF, cool video!
Wilhelm, man, at the 2:10 second mark there is a UFO behind you !!!!!
Check it out....
Anyway, bought a Rapid-Omega 120 to escape my DSLR habit.
Thanks for your great tutorials.
Night photographer Bo Dudas
Wow, first time watching ur video haha💙
I’m not even interested in nighttime photography but it’s a willem verbeek video so of course I’m going to watch it
Great photos btw
i love watching your videos
Would love to see some more portrait work
Nice photo man!👍
Take a shower, crack open a cold beer and sit down to watch Willem's video. Fresh.
Trying to find the night photography video you posted, specifically the one where you’re shooting the Burger King at night. But can’t seem to find it. Am I missing it somewhere? Cause I think it’s a different one than your New Jersey vid
Polaroid film back???
I’d honestly love to see you at least try and shoot something like HP5+, I’m sure the latitude will be just fine and in the worst case scenario development can be adjusted anyway
I lived in wildwood, thankfully I got out of that ghetto swamp.
How do you get your shots to be so sharp and focused? They are hella clean 🔥
best days are willem sundays
ye the phone meters only go to 1 second or so , so I guess I need to get a actual meter or keep winging it for longer exposures
Can you talk about rating film speeds like shooting iso400 film at 200 ISO and developing it as a 400 ISO film, etc.
Yo! Which speed film are you using in these shots?