Great Gardening Questions has replaced CBS Sunday Morning for me. A toasted everything bagel, dark roast coffee & gardening insight is a good way to ease into Sunday mornings.
It's so instructive to really LOOK at your garden in late winter, you standing right where we've seen you stand, recalling what that aspect looked like during other seasons. I can see how you've plotted out placement of evergreens + evergolds, etc., to provide FRAMEWORK. Great example.
The person asking about plants, where to get them. I’d advise like Jim to go to a local garden center but also check out the local nurseries in your area and arboretum to ask for the plants you want. I did that about a month ago at a local nursery and they’ve already called me to ask if I still needed this or that. Also the owner said he’d be willing to root a cutting for me but it’d be a little bit before I got the plant. Your best bet is to start a relationship with these people because they know what they’re doing and they can find things that you can’t find in the local Lowes or Home Depot. Also the nursery plants will be in better condition than the big box stores. That’s what I’ve found out over the years so well worth getting to know your local nurseries.
Depends on the nursery. I have been a customer for several years and have yet to see anything special ordered. They say their orders are placed the previous year and that's it, which is why I either order online or drive directly to the farms to get what I need.
@@sherriianiro747 I’ve never had that issue where I’m at. But I do ask well in advance for specialty things. I will say this I did ask one of the local chain garden centers here about a proven winners plant. They did say they order a year in advance. However I talked to proven winners and poof it was at that store waiting on me in a week and a half. I think it all just depends on the situation. It does help to have a relationship with the people you’re wanting to work with.
@@dia9491 Um - I have had a relationship with them for 40 yrs. so that's a mute point and yes, if you order from Proven Winners they can send your product to a participating nursery for pick up and that nursery gets credit so no one is doing any favors here. As a manager the goal is to get rid of the stock on hand unless you don't own the plants. I purchase from wholesale nurseries and I pretty much get whatever I want and do not need to worry about neonics either.
Speaking of bagged peonies Jim, I recommend that folks pot the tubers up the year before you want to put them in the ground. That's what I did and when I transplanted they already had a good root system and were growing well. I had one bloom the 1st year and several blooms last year. This will be the 3rd year that they've been in the ground and I find them clumping up very nicely. Zone 7B.
Hi Jim, a lot of us are setting up irrigation for the new growing season and I was hoping to see some updates on your current drip setup. I’m a bit at a loss on how to add dirt and mulch and plants around the new drip system we installed. Many thanks
Jim always has good videos I've been playing in the gardens for years since I was a kid at the grandparents Farm and gr8 grand ma gardens my mother's side of the family had a plant nursery for many years . Here in Rehoboth Beach Delaware zone was 7B now it's 8A I think I still look to Jim's videos to guide me .thanks Jim
We’re in Zone 5b and we leave pretty much everything to just decompose in the garden over winter. We shred as much as we can to help break things down but we just let nature do the rest. By spring they’re mostly gone except for larger twigs and branches but that’s fine too.
I don't think that Jim can say often enough that it isn't worth trying to make a plant grow where it doesn't want to --life is too short. But I did want to add that you don't need to give up entirely on ferns in dry shade as there are some ferns that work in dry or drier shade at least in my 7a Hudson Valley NY climate. We get fairly consistent rainfall although being on the side of a mountain the water can run off quickly. There is rock polypody (polypodium virginianum) growing on steep, dry wooded slopes in my ravine. These seem to be able to grow in tiny pockets in the rocks, hence the name! Elsewhere on the property on dry, rocky slopes under deciduous trees Christmas fern (polystichum acrostichoides), lady fern (athyrium felix-femina) and marginal wood fern (dryopteris marginalis) are doing pretty well. Also, Tony Avent's ghost fern is doing very well, so maybe some of the Japanese painted ferns would work? To be fair, this area has been mulched over time which may have provided some additional moisture retention, but not much. I have a lot of hellebores growing in this area and they are very happy and blooming away at the moment. So, if your heart is set on a ferny wooded area, do some research to see if there aren't ferns that would work for you. Warning: hay-scented fern (dennstaedtia punctilobula) grows ell in dry shade but it wants to take over the world!
Great info! It took some experimenting for me, but I found a few ferns that do very well in non-tended shade. No watering, no fertilizing, no mntc. Love ‘em!
Yes thanks for adding this. I guess ferns are assumed to prefer moist shady sites but many species do very well in drier spots and many seem to go into a sort of dormancy when dry and then perk up again when soil moisture is up again
I'm so glad you mentioned something about getting your soil tested at your local county extension. I had no idea they did that! I'm going to look into that tomorrow morning. Thank you so much Jim!
I agree with you about the small bare root peonies. I’m in the ATL area and could not get one to grow. I finally bought a bigger established plant and it has done so well. It makes me happy every year to see that plant flower! So I bought another. 😊 Why did you decide to get rid of the greenhouse plans? Maybe I missed you talking about that.
UK resources include several good you tube channels: Middle Size Garden, John Lord's Garden, Huw Richard. There are more I can't remember off the top of my head since I'm in Jim's zone in Tennessee and this my primary source of information.
John Lord is quite the character! I enjoy watching his videos altho Jim’s are more appropriate for my smaller garden. Love those tall exuberant blooms of John Lords tho….yowza! 👍🏻
Jim thank you so much for your commitment to your viewers. I know I’ve mentioned it prior but boy have I learned from you how to garden the right way. I have an addiction/obsession with Hellebores. I’m in zone 7 NJ. I placed few that get lots of morning sun and shade starting around noon. Will they do fine during the summer time?
Hi Jim here’s another zone map question: I live in Cabot, Arkansas, and my zone has been changed to 8a. Every year in the winter we get a hard freeze or an arctic blast. I find myself purchasing plants that are hardy to zone 6 because I don’t want to have to cover everything in my garden or replace things on a regular basis. If I go by the zone map and plant plants in my garden that are zone 8a I’m gonna be replacing a lot of plants and it’s gonna be very costly every year.
I have a florist hydrangea that was a Mother's Day gift from 20 years ago. Repotted as needed over the years, semi-shade, has bloomed every year except this past one (Christmas freeze, NC).
My back yard is going to be dug up probably in mid-summer to install a 2k gal rainwater collection system with a pondless waterfall on top. I normally go outside in March to prune the roses , fruit trees and shrubs so I think that is the time to dig up and rescue some of the shrubs, trees and perennials in the path of destruction that I want to save. There are japanese maples, several chamaecyparis, contorted filbert, hydrangeas, peonies, viburnum, a fig, roses and the most difficult a couple 5 yr+ dwarf apple/pear trees (which may just be sacrifice). Most of the treasures I will want to replant around the new water feature are in the ground 2-5 years. I thought I should dig up what needs saved in march and put them in grow bags out of the way until time to replant. I also see similar projects where they use the bucket to pull them out just prior to construction and then replant them after a few days to the new home - but that will be in mid summer. Its rarely over 90 here and I might be willing to let that happen to a green giant arborvitae that is easily replaceable but not my european weeping larch, for instance. Zone 7a sliver along lake Erie. How would you rescue and hold your botanical treasures? EDIT: found your prep video from 6 months ago that is helping, thanks!
This weekend I had started my garden in North Texas. Cutting down perennials, planting bare root perennials/annuals,raking up, etc. so much fun to get the vision out of my head and into the garden. Jim- I got 3 Radiance Abelia from an auction. 2 in the ground & left the other in a pot. Question: companion plant suggestions. North Texas ~ Southside of East Garden. Thanks!
BEFORE I introduce a recently purchased plant to its new home, I give it time to draw water up from the bottom (not days, though) via a large metal container filled with rainwater. I feel it gives the plant its best chance to transition to its new home. I do water thoroughly upon planting, too, and then let it fend for itself. 🌸🐝
Thanks for answering the Fatsia question! I know my garden center has some variegated ones, so I will pick that up! I’ll place the original where it can get larger.
Great Q&A Sunday! When is a newly planted tree or plant considered established? And is it ok to underplant my Jap Maples with annuals or small perennials? and if so, what plants would be best considering the Jap Maple's water needs? Thanks so much for your expertise and valuable time!
C. japonica 'Prof. Sargent' will be fine in zone 7A, but wouldn't try it further north. Main thing in zone 7 is to try to site it (e.g., north side of house) so as to shield it from early winter morning sun when the temperature is ~ 8 degrees.
Hello, I like hearing about your time when you had a nursery. Where did you get the majority of your cuttings when you first got started? I want to start selling plants at my local farmer's market and need to get more things besides seeds started. Thank you for the great content!
Mahalo, Jim & Stephanie! I have red clay. Over time (and because of your videos) I’ve learned a shallow layer of mulch works best to condition the soil and reduce weeds. In zone 11b I apply 3 inches of mulch 2X or 3X a year. Any more mulch will turn anaerobic. Perlite works well, too. Adding gravel didn’t help; it just turn my clay into concrete!
Thanks for answering these questions. I love watching your garden tours. What plants do you think will do well in full sun next to an in ground pool? I’m worried about aggressive roots damaging the pool but it looks so bare without any plants. If you have any advice let me know. Thanks!
Jim, I’m in zone 6B Pennsylvania and multiple dwarf butterfly bushes (south facing) are putting on new growth here. It’s insane and makes cutting them back a bit challenging.
It's tempting to give them a hard prune now but I've learned to be patient and wait til later in the spring. The new tender growth on butterfly bush after a hard prune is very susceptible to freeze damage that will have to be pruned off anyways. I try to wait until near my last freeze date for these espec in winters when they don't go completely dormant like this year
With ferns in dry shade there’s a ton of variety. I’ve experimented in dry shade and have found woodland ferns, shield ferns, painted ferns work well. and I’m testing a male fern this year.
Can we talk front yard trees? I always enjoy your videos and even more so now that I am unable to work in my garden due to an Achilles tendon rupture. I now have plenty of time on my hands to watch and research for my fall projects. I know how you feel about red maples in smaller landscapes and of course our builder planted a red maple in our front yard (3/4 acre lot) and I want to replace it this fall with another front yard tree before it gets too big. I was considering a gingko "Autumn gold" (purchasing from Adcock's Nursery in FV), but I would love to see a video of yours and Steph's favorite front yard trees for different sized lots, pros and cons, and everything else your expertise brings. Do you plan on creating any videos for tree suggestions? As always, thank you both for the Learn to Garden course and the HortTube videos!
Hey Rebecca, I’m in FV and got rid of my red maple! 🤣🤣 I’ve got Ceris ‘Ruby Falls’, an Asian fringe tree ‘Tokyo Tower’ and a fastigiate Japanese ‘Red Sentinel’. Lemme know if you want to stop by and see these. These are small trees. 👍🏻 ‘Ruby Falls’ is simply stunning.
Hi Joan! We have similar taste, I have a Cercis 'Ruby Falls' in my front yard near my driveway/sidewalk. I love this tree too and it's getting ready to bloom soon! I have not seen a Tokyo Tower or Red Sentinel in person so I would love to see these in your front yard and it's so generous of you to offer! I'm currently in my elevation phase of my Achilles tendon repair and since it's my right foot my husband would have to drive me to see your trees. We're very chose to Adcock's Nursery in FV. I'm hoping I'll be allowed to get up and about in a week or two. I've had the hardest time trying to decide on what to do with my front yard and with my current situation I have plenty of time to research. Happy gardening! @@joannc147
Re: sourcing plants that can’t be locally found. Monrovia will ship free of charge to a local garden center that sells Monrovia plants. Amazon is another great source, particularly Green Promise Farms. Their plants are boxed very well and of 6 or so plants that I have ordered from there, only one has been a worry and that’s my fault for not siting correctly and under watering during a particularly dry period last summer.
Fertilizer question. Does bagged fertilizer expire? I purchased some granular fertilizer several years ago that I’ve never used. Would it still be effective now or should I just throw it away? Thanks. Love these Q & A posts! Great way to learn.
Thank you for the opportunity to ask gardening questions here. I live in NJ zone 6b/7a. Is now a good time to dig out the volunteer rose of sharon and iliac plants (about one or two years old) to plant at a desired new location? They look like sticks in the ground now with buds, they look alive. I want to relocate them, but don't know if I should wait until spring when they broke dormancy.
Hello! Love the channel and I've learned a lot here. I just bought a bunch of Sunshine Ligustrum and Red Sky Holly really cheap on the clearance rack. I've been watering thoroughly to revive them. Would you recommend pruning or cutting back when we plant soon?
I have a sunshine ligustrum and planted it last year. It was beautiful, now the middle is all bare branches, with leaves on the outside branches. Should I cut it all down? And how much? Zone 9b Florida
Q: I don't see this discussed much. I have annual beds where I want to encourage reseeding, although I'll also be planting new seedlings too. How do I care for the beds and last fall's fallen seeds in early spring? When/If/How much to water during dry times? Should I rake the soil or let it be? I added a light layer of manure and pine wood chips in fall--will fallen seeds germinate OK in that? Any other suggestions? I'm in 7b. Thanks for all you do!
Gardening Question: I'm extending an existing 8ft wide flower bed by 22 feet. I want to raise it just a bit (6-12 inches) to be sure the plants going into it will have good drainage. What kind of soil would you recommend I bring in for this? Composted top soil, soil with fertilizer, some kind of acid mix, etc? Conifers, evergreen and flowering perennials will be going here. Full sun North Texas 8a Dallas
I noticed how some trees, especially maples held onto their leaves this year but I thought it was because of the early cold we had in GA before they hardened off...I had a camelia that got zapped on the top foliage because of that really cold in mid October before it had a chance to acclamate...
Is the blue-ish/green conifer over your right shoulder in this video the Chamaecyparis Boulevard you had in a container until recently? If so, I am extremely jealous! I planted a small one in a container a couple years ago. It languished for about a year and then the rabbits in my neighborhood decided to munch on it (who knew?)! That was the last straw and I had to pitch it. I'm going to try again (I'm in Zone 6b) but will attempt to find a larger shrub to start with. It is _such_ a beautiful shrub and I hope to someday be able to grow it in my yard. Thank for everything you show us.
Gardening Question: how small can I keep an Oklahoma Redbud while still allowing it to be beautiful and not look "weird"? I don't have much space, but I love that they can take full sun while most dwarf plants struggle in my area (North Texas 8a). Can it be kept 4-5ft in width for the first 5-7 years?
Thank you for all you do. Purchased a new home a year ago (zone 9a, coastal georgia). The builder clear-cut the acre lot, leaving just a 80+ ft pine tree. I've begun planting some trees and adding compost to the flower beds (sandy soil, 5.3 ph). I ultimately want to create multiple zones of different interests. Am I on the right track? Is there something else I can should consider doing until the trees grow to a height that can actually provide shaded areas?
Great videos Jim, thanks so much. Question for you, will loropetlum recover after deer damage? I'm in zone 7a. The deer in my area seem to sample just a little on some plants, but seems the young fawns are the samplers, lol. This can be frustrating, but I'm getting used to it.
Can’t wait for the crossing branches pruning video. Have several things I need to work on. Specifically need to work on a mature camellia japonica and an American Fringe tree. The branches (if removed) will leave a “hole” on the plant and be quite unsightly. Will they recover or is it too late to get rid of the crossing branches?
Love your videos! I bought a house and started my 1st garden in '21 without any prior knowledge whatsoever, lol! Couldn't have done it without you! Could you please explain more about pruning trees. I'm confused about how to know where the new growth will come if I prune, or if I might permanently stop growth (ie. does pruning the top always cause bottom growth, will pruning the left side cause growth on the right side, or trigger growth on the left??, will cuts cause one new branch to grow or 2 - one in each direction? etc.). Specifically, I have an "Autumn Brilliance" multitrunk Serviceberry (planted 2 years ago, Zone 6B SW Ohio), with only 1 spindly branch on the left side of the left most trunk. It makes it look lopsided, as if it's planted crooked, but I don't think it really is. Is there a way to prune it to encourage growth on that left limb, particularly the left side of it? Thanks so much for sharing all your wisdom and experience!
Jim first off love your channel, lots of good tips and an all round great watch. I do have some pruning questions, I have very tall lavender bushes that I want to lower and make smaller, I am 50 miles sw Chicago, when and any tips to cut these back? Second questions question is how to best prune and reshape a bush that has grown over our driveway, dont want to scratch the new car so want to reshape this . I have been sawing off larger branches first then thinking of using my hedge trimmer to make new shape, any tips would be great appreciated
Hi Jim. Due to the height of my house, there is part of my garden that is pretty full sun in summer but almost full shade in winter. The part shade plants I tried there often struggle with the summer sun. Any recommendations? Maybe sun plants that can tolerate a long dark winter?
I live in zone 5b , want to rejuvenate 30+ year old blueberry bushes. Can I cut them down to about three feet? Thank you for sharing all your knowledge, love your show
If I'm starting to start seeds can I do it in my outdoor building that doesn't have heat, I live in Covington n.a., 30 miles from Athens, know you've been there. I was going to use grow light just wondering if the building was too cold,
Jim, thanks for all of your informative videos! I have a question about the plant sizes listed on tags. I’ve heard that you typically should expect a shrub/tree to grow taller than what’s listed on the tag, especially if you are planning more than 5-8 years out. Is that true? I’m trying to make sure I’m planting in the right place and won’t have to move plants or prune heavily years from now because they grew too tall. (Or stayed too short!) Some examples: Camellia Sasanqua (October Magic orchid) says 4-5’ tall and I want to place under windows that start 5’ up, so I don’t want it much taller. (However I have decades old camellia japonica that I struggle to keep below 12’ tall, so I know that with time, some camellia can get big.) Conversely, would something like a Lime Delight Arborvitae or Steeds Holly really stay at 6 feet tall years after planting? I’d love to use them in an area where I’m looking for privacy 6-10’ from the ground (with time and patience of course) without having to keep up with constant pruning. (PS… I’m in Zone 7, Richmond, Va)
Do you have videos on fruit tree care in the South? I’m in zone 7b/8a piedmont area in Georgia. Planning a backyard orchard with an unseated greenhouse I’m dying to use!!! I wanna push the limits and grow as much fruit as possible.
Hi Jim, what is the Weeping tree behind you ? I had a gorgeous weeping cherry tree and a weeping maple back in NJ. I moved to the Alabama gulf coast and would love something like that down here.
What’s the correct way to prune pieris after they bloom? Do I really need to go to each individual set of hanging blooms and prune them off? If so, is there an easier approach?
I recently got a dwarf weeping pussywillow (double grafted) and it’s almost done flowering. The limbs are very long, it’s grown a lot. The directions said to keep it in plenty of sun(goes outdoors during the day) but do not plant it in the ground till danger of frost is over. My questions is at what time of year do you prune these type of weeping small trees? The limbs on this pussywillow are actually longer than it is tall. So currently if it wasn’t in a container the limbs would be all over the ground. I think it’ll need a prune before it’s planted in ground but I’m thinking it may be a little late to prune it because it’s leafing out now.
1. Can you drastically trim back a Fire Bush that has become overgrown? 2. Will you be putting mulch down over top of the leaves and if so, will you be shredding them first? 🪴💚
For chipping plants (branches, twigs, etc.), are there certain plants you would avoid chipping? I think you mentioned previously to be careful chipping thorny plants like roses because the canes are thrashed around. For example, are there plants that might start seedlings from chipped plant material?
Question! How do I improve the soil of established garden beds (for better drainage for heavy clay)? I have been using a compost mulch for many years but that only seems to be helping in the top several inches, not all the way down to where I dig to plant. I’m in Western Oregon, 8b. Very wet but then SUPER dry in the summer. Plus, I’m starting to notice mounding of the mulch around my plants, making them be kind of down in impressions in the soil. Not sure what to do. Thanks!
I garden in Virginia zone 7B. Do you think that black-lace elderberry will do well here. The tag said it can be grown up to zone 8, but last summer it looked like it got burned due to summer heat. the plant is still alive, but it not seems to grow as quick as I think. I planted them last year, so it is still a small plant
Hello 🌿! I planted hydrangeas shrubs last spring , and over the year kept adding more good compost and mulch around them - now with the new soil level they seem to be planted too deep. Should I dig them up and adjust the depth, or that would disrupt them too much and it’s better just to leave them as they are ?
Question: I have been successful potting and growing Japanese Maple seedlings that sprout in my yard from a neighbor's tree. That tree is grafted. The seedlings have been successfully grown in the ground after transplanting from the pots, but of course are not grafted. Can I expect that the seedling tree will successfully grow to maturity, since it is not grafted, and should it remain true to the foliage type of the above ground grafted tree? Thanks for all the education!
Q: I missed planting the alliums last fall. When should I put them in: now (the soil is wet and I’m afraid the bulbs will rot) or later in March (when it’s somewhat drier and sunny)? 7a
Hi Jim...I have a Japanese Thunderhead pine in zone 7B in Virginia...I noticed one of the branches is very heavy and hanging to one side...should I give it some sort of support or cut it off? I know they are rather free form...but I am afraid it might break. Thanks for your wisdom!
Hi Jim and Stephanie, love your channel! I've been trying to grow hardy gardenia (Frostproof) for years in Seattle zone 8A/7B. Unfortunately every time i plant them in the ground they die. I've tried to plant them in a few different sites (full sun, part shade, slightly raised up, etc.). I've made sure that they get a little acid loving fertilizer in early spring, but they always start looking peaky, pale, turn brown, and by the second year just look awful or outright die. What's weirder is i have two in pots that are probably seven years old that are doing fine.. When i did plant them in the ground i planted them close to some concrete retaining walls. Could the concrete be affecting soil ph? Thank you!
Gardening Question: I've been buying a ton of conifers (blue Atlas cedars, Deodar Cedars and Austrian Pine. They've come in from Oregon, I'm in North Texas, 8a. Is there any reason I shouldn't put them in the ground right now? They're cold hardy plants; I want them to establish before summer.
Im really having problems creating a tropical landscape 🏝️ on the east side of by home in zone 9 houston area close to the coast were i get about morning sun and shade the rest of the day can you recommend some perennials? ❤
Hi Jim, do you need to take any action if soil with a groundcover growing on it has been compacted? I had to intensively tread on an area with relatively young vinca plants (1,5 years old) in order to fix an underground power line that I accidentally damaged with a shovel. Will the vinca in the compacted area recover over time?
Hi Jim! zone 7b Oklahoma. I have three dwarf loropetalums that look dead. Leaves are droopy or dropped, and the branches are brittle. This was their first winter with me, and Oklahoma had a few sudden cold snaps. Do you think they’re dead? When should I give up? Thanks!
The oak leaves just fell in North Florida 9B and I am using them for the first time in my flower beds. Will I still need to put my normal pine bark mulch on top at some point? Does using leaf mulch interfere at all with water getting to the plants?
I also want to add a small path by side of the house which slopes down toward a wetland at the back,I was going to edge the outside and use small river rock, I hear bad things about weed layer underneath so would sharp sand be better? Or should I lay the rock direct on the cleaned up soil? Again your thoughts on this would be welcome
I have a Gentsch White Hemlock bush I bought last year. I need to move it to a shadier location. Would it work under a fully mature Magnolia tree in Central Illinois zone 6? About 6 foot from the trunk of the tree?
Are there sunflower seeds that can grow in a large container that won't compete for space or grow too large? (Habitat for humanity cottage style home). Narrow porch.
does round-up kill dormant st. aug. grass? starting a new garden in 9A. i know some folks don't like round-up, but i have no problem with it. thanks. you have a great channel.
Hi, Jim and Stephanie! I have a Daphne ‘Rebecca’ that I’ve had in the ground for about 3 years. It hasn’t grown much (about 18” in diameter). Every year when it blooms, its leaves are pitiful - slightly shriveled, brown edges, dropped leaves. Its blooms are lovely and fragrant but the leaves just look sad. What am I doing wrong here in Zone 7b (Virginia)? Since it is still so small, can it be moved? Thanks!
I've got a Spartan juniper I planted last year that ended up leaning. What's the best way to correct the lean? Do I dig around the roots a bit and pull it to the side? Do I need to stake it? It's about 5' tall now.
Speaking of air layering, I have several oddball conifers (Alaskan cedar and Serbian spruce) that I’d like to multiply. Is the fact that they’re grafted onto other rootstock a sign that they can’t be propagated by air layering?
We have an area shaded by a Japanese maple right beside a concrete driveway which sheds rainwater over the area. Could hellebores survive the occasional soaking like this as it does drain off in a couple days? Really enjoy youe videos!
If that area is actually still soggy 2-3 days after a hard rain , then your hellebores prob won't survive. They like moist soil but will likely succumb to root rots if the soil doesn't drain well. They can survive just fine in dry conditions but not overly wet
Hi Jim. I have a very sad looking Blue Cloak Fir here in 6b Eastern Kansas. I’ve had it less than a year, and it is growing in a container. It has lost about 50% of its needles but the branches are still limber. Is this normal or is this one a goner? Thanks!
Great Gardening Questions has replaced CBS Sunday Morning for me. A toasted everything bagel, dark roast coffee & gardening insight is a good way to ease into Sunday mornings.
I wake up feed my pups grab my coffee and and is Jim time!
Same here! Toasted onion bagel and a cup of tea and Jim time👍🏼
Same! Look forward to it every Sunday
Cinnamon swirl bagel and some Putnam time here 👍🏻
Absolutely 💯
It's so instructive to really LOOK at your garden in late winter, you standing right where we've seen you stand, recalling what that aspect looked like during other seasons.
I can see how you've plotted out placement of evergreens + evergolds, etc., to provide FRAMEWORK. Great example.
Good morning Jim and Stephanie! Thank you for another great Q&A video
Thank you so much for answering my question on soil testing!
The person asking about plants, where to get them. I’d advise like Jim to go to a local garden center but also check out the local nurseries in your area and arboretum to ask for the plants you want. I did that about a month ago at a local nursery and they’ve already called me to ask if I still needed this or that. Also the owner said he’d be willing to root a cutting for me but it’d be a little bit before I got the plant. Your best bet is to start a relationship with these people because they know what they’re doing and they can find things that you can’t find in the local Lowes or Home Depot. Also the nursery plants will be in better condition than the big box stores. That’s what I’ve found out over the years so well worth getting to know your local nurseries.
Depends on the nursery. I have been a customer for several years and have yet to see anything special ordered. They say their orders are placed the previous year and that's it, which is why I either order online or drive directly to the farms to get what I need.
@@sherriianiro747 I’ve never had that issue where I’m at. But I do ask well in advance for specialty things. I will say this I did ask one of the local chain garden centers here about a proven winners plant. They did say they order a year in advance. However I talked to proven winners and poof it was at that store waiting on me in a week and a half. I think it all just depends on the situation. It does help to have a relationship with the people you’re wanting to work with.
@@dia9491 Um - I have had a relationship with them for 40 yrs. so that's a mute point and yes, if you order from Proven Winners they can send your product to a participating nursery for pick up and that nursery gets credit so no one is doing any favors here.
As a manager the goal is to get rid of the stock on hand unless you don't own the plants. I purchase from wholesale nurseries and I pretty much get whatever I want and do not need to worry about neonics either.
Speaking of bagged peonies Jim, I recommend that folks pot the tubers up the year before you want to put them in the ground. That's what I did and when I transplanted they already had a good root system and were growing well. I had one bloom the 1st year and several blooms last year. This will be the 3rd year that they've been in the ground and I find them clumping up very nicely. Zone 7B.
Hi Jim, a lot of us are setting up irrigation for the new growing season and I was hoping to see some updates on your current drip setup. I’m a bit at a loss on how to add dirt and mulch and plants around the new drip system we installed. Many thanks
Yes!! Great question! How to cover the tubes, while not creating mounded mulch around the plants??
I got the learn to grow series for a Christmas present to myself and it goes 2 ways , it supports this wonderful channel!
Jim, you should use your notebooks to write a book. 😉
Jim always has good videos
I've been playing in the gardens for years since I was a kid at the grandparents Farm and gr8 grand ma gardens my mother's side of the family had a plant nursery for many years . Here in Rehoboth Beach Delaware zone was 7B now it's 8A I think I still look to Jim's videos to guide me .thanks Jim
Sweet Holly as a youngster. ❤
I'm in South west uk with lots of dry shade and lamium has done surprisingly well and also ajuga.
We’re in Zone 5b and we leave pretty much everything to just decompose in the garden over winter. We shred as much as we can to help break things down but we just let nature do the rest. By spring they’re mostly gone except for larger twigs and branches but that’s fine too.
Thanks for answering my question about your notebooks. 😊 📖
Are you still doing the Garden Plants with Jim Putnam series?
I don't think that Jim can say often enough that it isn't worth trying to make a plant grow where it doesn't want to --life is too short. But I did want to add that you don't need to give up entirely on ferns in dry shade as there are some ferns that work in dry or drier shade at least in my 7a Hudson Valley NY climate. We get fairly consistent rainfall although being on the side of a mountain the water can run off quickly. There is rock polypody (polypodium virginianum) growing on steep, dry wooded slopes in my ravine. These seem to be able to grow in tiny pockets in the rocks, hence the name! Elsewhere on the property on dry, rocky slopes under deciduous trees Christmas fern (polystichum acrostichoides), lady fern (athyrium felix-femina) and marginal wood fern (dryopteris marginalis) are doing pretty well. Also, Tony Avent's ghost fern is doing very well, so maybe some of the Japanese painted ferns would work? To be fair, this area has been mulched over time which may have provided some additional moisture retention, but not much. I have a lot of hellebores growing in this area and they are very happy and blooming away at the moment. So, if your heart is set on a ferny wooded area, do some research to see if there aren't ferns that would work for you. Warning: hay-scented fern (dennstaedtia punctilobula) grows ell in dry shade but it wants to take over the world!
Great info! It took some experimenting for me, but I found a few ferns that do very well in non-tended shade. No watering, no fertilizing, no mntc. Love ‘em!
Yes thanks for adding this. I guess ferns are assumed to prefer moist shady sites but many species do very well in drier spots and many seem to go into a sort of dormancy when dry and then perk up again when soil moisture is up again
I'm so glad you mentioned something about getting your soil tested at your local county extension. I had no idea they did that! I'm going to look into that tomorrow morning. Thank you so much Jim!
House I moved in someone used plastic..what a mess took forever to remove..not weed fabric straight plastic. Urg!
Thanks for another great episode
I agree with you about the small bare root peonies. I’m in the ATL area and could not get one to grow. I finally bought a bigger established plant and it has done so well. It makes me happy every year to see that plant flower! So I bought another. 😊
Why did you decide to get rid of the greenhouse plans? Maybe I missed you talking about that.
🌳ENJOYED 🌳
UK resources include several good you tube channels: Middle Size Garden, John Lord's Garden, Huw Richard. There are more I can't remember off the top of my head since I'm in Jim's zone in Tennessee and this my primary source of information.
John Lord is quite the character! I enjoy watching his videos altho Jim’s are more appropriate for my smaller garden. Love those tall exuberant blooms of John Lords tho….yowza! 👍🏻
Jim thank you so much for your commitment to your viewers. I know I’ve mentioned it prior but boy have I learned from you how to garden the right way. I have an addiction/obsession with Hellebores. I’m in zone 7 NJ. I placed few that get lots of morning sun and shade starting around noon. Will they do fine during the summer time?
Perfect! They’ll do great with that. 👍🏻
This was a great video. Thanks for all the information.
Jim the Butcher. Found my halloween costume
Hi Jim here’s another zone map question: I live in Cabot, Arkansas, and my zone has been changed to 8a. Every year in the winter we get a hard freeze or an arctic blast. I find myself purchasing plants that are hardy to zone 6 because I don’t want to have to cover everything in my garden or replace things on a regular basis. If I go by the zone map and plant plants in my garden that are zone 8a I’m gonna be replacing a lot of plants and it’s gonna be very costly every year.
Another over the top gardening Q&A, thank you Jim
I have a florist hydrangea that was a Mother's Day gift from 20 years ago. Repotted as needed over the years, semi-shade, has bloomed every year except this past one (Christmas freeze, NC).
Great video!. Every Sunday I look forward to watching half of the video on my lunch break and the other half when I get home from work :)
My back yard is going to be dug up probably in mid-summer to install a 2k gal rainwater collection system with a pondless waterfall on top. I normally go outside in March to prune the roses , fruit trees and shrubs so I think that is the time to dig up and rescue some of the shrubs, trees and perennials in the path of destruction that I want to save. There are japanese maples, several chamaecyparis, contorted filbert, hydrangeas, peonies, viburnum, a fig, roses and the most difficult a couple 5 yr+ dwarf apple/pear trees (which may just be sacrifice). Most of the treasures I will want to replant around the new water feature are in the ground 2-5 years. I thought I should dig up what needs saved in march and put them in grow bags out of the way until time to replant. I also see similar projects where they use the bucket to pull them out just prior to construction and then replant them after a few days to the new home - but that will be in mid summer. Its rarely over 90 here and I might be willing to let that happen to a green giant arborvitae that is easily replaceable but not my european weeping larch, for instance. Zone 7a sliver along lake Erie. How would you rescue and hold your botanical treasures? EDIT: found your prep video from 6 months ago that is helping, thanks!
This weekend I had started my garden in North Texas. Cutting down perennials, planting bare root perennials/annuals,raking up, etc. so much fun to get the vision out of my head and into the garden. Jim- I got 3 Radiance Abelia from an auction. 2 in the ground & left the other in a pot.
Question: companion plant suggestions. North Texas ~ Southside of East Garden. Thanks!
BEFORE I introduce a recently purchased plant to its new home, I give it time to draw water up from the bottom (not days, though) via a large metal container filled with rainwater. I feel it gives the plant its best chance to transition to its new home. I do water thoroughly upon planting, too, and then let it fend for itself. 🌸🐝
Thanks for answering the Fatsia question! I know my garden center has some variegated ones, so I will pick that up! I’ll place the original where it can get larger.
FYI - deer love these!
This are all very helpful Q & A! Thanks
Great Q&A Sunday! When is a newly planted tree or plant considered established? And is it ok to underplant my Jap Maples with annuals or small perennials? and if so, what plants would be best considering the Jap Maple's water needs? Thanks so much for your expertise and valuable time!
Chamecyparis “Boulevard” I have 2 here in zone 8, beautiful silvery blue. Looks stunning with a coral bark maple!
Great information! Thank you! Blessings! 💙🙏🦋
C. japonica 'Prof. Sargent' will be fine in zone 7A, but wouldn't try it further north. Main thing in zone 7 is to try to site it (e.g., north side of house) so as to shield it from early winter morning sun when the temperature is ~ 8 degrees.
Hello, I like hearing about your time when you had a nursery. Where did you get the majority of your cuttings when you first got started? I want to start selling plants at my local farmer's market and need to get more things besides seeds started. Thank you for the great content!
Mahalo, Jim & Stephanie! I have red clay. Over time (and because of your videos) I’ve learned a shallow layer of mulch works best to condition the soil and reduce weeds. In zone 11b I apply 3 inches of mulch 2X or 3X a year. Any more mulch will turn anaerobic. Perlite works well, too. Adding gravel didn’t help; it just turn my clay into concrete!
Thanks for answering these questions. I love watching your garden tours. What plants do you think will do well in full sun next to an in ground pool? I’m worried about aggressive roots damaging the pool but it looks so bare without any plants. If you have any advice let me know. Thanks!
Jim, I’m in zone 6B Pennsylvania and multiple dwarf butterfly bushes (south facing) are putting on new growth here. It’s insane and makes cutting them back a bit challenging.
It's tempting to give them a hard prune now but I've learned to be patient and wait til later in the spring. The new tender growth on butterfly bush after a hard prune is very susceptible to freeze damage that will have to be pruned off anyways. I try to wait until near my last freeze date for these espec in winters when they don't go completely dormant like this year
With ferns in dry shade there’s a ton of variety. I’ve experimented in dry shade and have found woodland ferns, shield ferns, painted ferns work well. and I’m testing a male fern this year.
Can we talk front yard trees? I always enjoy your videos and even more so now that I am unable to work in my garden due to an Achilles tendon rupture. I now have plenty of time on my hands to watch and research for my fall projects. I know how you feel about red maples in smaller landscapes and of course our builder planted a red maple in our front yard (3/4 acre lot) and I want to replace it this fall with another front yard tree before it gets too big. I was considering a gingko "Autumn gold" (purchasing from Adcock's Nursery in FV), but I would love to see a video of yours and Steph's favorite front yard trees for different sized lots, pros and cons, and everything else your expertise brings. Do you plan on creating any videos for tree suggestions? As always, thank you both for the Learn to Garden course and the HortTube videos!
Hey Rebecca, I’m in FV and got rid of my red maple! 🤣🤣 I’ve got Ceris ‘Ruby Falls’, an Asian fringe tree ‘Tokyo Tower’ and a fastigiate Japanese ‘Red Sentinel’. Lemme know if you want to stop by and see these. These are small trees. 👍🏻 ‘Ruby Falls’ is simply stunning.
Hi Joan! We have similar taste, I have a Cercis 'Ruby Falls' in my front yard near my driveway/sidewalk. I love this tree too and it's getting ready to bloom soon! I have not seen a Tokyo Tower or Red Sentinel in person so I would love to see these in your front yard and it's so generous of you to offer! I'm currently in my elevation phase of my Achilles tendon repair and since it's my right foot my husband would have to drive me to see your trees. We're very chose to Adcock's Nursery in FV. I'm hoping I'll be allowed to get up and about in a week or two. I've had the hardest time trying to decide on what to do with my front yard and with my current situation I have plenty of time to research. Happy gardening! @@joannc147
@@rebeccann0913 just “reply” to this when you’re ready and we will figure it out 👍🏻
Re: sourcing plants that can’t be locally found. Monrovia will ship free of charge to a local garden center that sells Monrovia plants. Amazon is another great source, particularly Green Promise Farms. Their plants are boxed very well and of 6 or so plants that I have ordered from there, only one has been a worry and that’s my fault for not siting correctly and under watering during a particularly dry period last summer.
Fertilizer question. Does bagged fertilizer expire? I purchased some granular fertilizer several years ago that I’ve never used. Would it still be effective now or should I just throw it away? Thanks. Love these Q & A posts! Great way to learn.
Thank you for the opportunity to ask gardening questions here. I live in NJ zone 6b/7a. Is now a good time to dig out the volunteer rose of sharon and iliac plants (about one or two years old) to plant at a desired new location? They look like sticks in the ground now with buds, they look alive. I want to relocate them, but don't know if I should wait until spring when they broke dormancy.
Hello! Love the channel and I've learned a lot here. I just bought a bunch of Sunshine Ligustrum and Red Sky Holly really cheap on the clearance rack. I've been watering thoroughly to revive them. Would you recommend pruning or cutting back when we plant soon?
I have a sunshine ligustrum and planted it last year. It was beautiful, now the middle is all bare branches, with leaves on the outside branches. Should I cut it all down? And how much? Zone 9b Florida
Q: I don't see this discussed much. I have annual beds where I want to encourage reseeding, although I'll also be planting new seedlings too. How do I care for the beds and last fall's fallen seeds in early spring? When/If/How much to water during dry times? Should I rake the soil or let it be? I added a light layer of manure and pine wood chips in fall--will fallen seeds germinate OK in that? Any other suggestions? I'm in 7b. Thanks for all you do!
Gardening Question: I'm extending an existing 8ft wide flower bed by 22 feet. I want to raise it just a bit (6-12 inches) to be sure the plants going into it will have good drainage. What kind of soil would you recommend I bring in for this? Composted top soil, soil with fertilizer, some kind of acid mix, etc? Conifers, evergreen and flowering perennials will be going here. Full sun
North Texas 8a Dallas
I noticed how some trees, especially maples held onto their leaves this year but I thought it was because of the early cold we had in GA before they hardened off...I had a camelia that got zapped on the top foliage because of that really cold in mid October before it had a chance to acclamate...
Is the blue-ish/green conifer over your right shoulder in this video the Chamaecyparis Boulevard you had in a container until recently? If so, I am extremely jealous! I planted a small one in a container a couple years ago. It languished for about a year and then the rabbits in my neighborhood decided to munch on it (who knew?)! That was the last straw and I had to pitch it. I'm going to try again (I'm in Zone 6b) but will attempt to find a larger shrub to start with. It is _such_ a beautiful shrub and I hope to someday be able to grow it in my yard. Thank for everything you show us.
Yes
Gardening Question: how small can I keep an Oklahoma Redbud while still allowing it to be beautiful and not look "weird"? I don't have much space, but I love that they can take full sun while most dwarf plants struggle in my area (North Texas 8a). Can it be kept 4-5ft in width for the first 5-7 years?
Is it ok to fertilize and selectively prune one side of the house in order to keep symmetrical foundation plants close in size?
Speaking of wood chips. What are your thoughts on using Chip drop service for mulch? Is there a concern of bringing a disease into your yard.
He has used them.
Thank you for all you do. Purchased a new home a year ago (zone 9a, coastal georgia). The builder clear-cut the acre lot, leaving just a 80+ ft pine tree. I've begun planting some trees and adding compost to the flower beds (sandy soil, 5.3 ph). I ultimately want to create multiple zones of different interests. Am I on the right track? Is there something else I can should consider doing until the trees grow to a height that can actually provide shaded areas?
Great videos Jim, thanks so much.
Question for you, will loropetlum recover after deer damage? I'm in zone 7a.
The deer in my area seem to sample just a little on some plants, but seems the young fawns are the samplers, lol. This can be frustrating, but I'm getting used to it.
Can’t wait for the crossing branches pruning video. Have several things I need to work on. Specifically need to work on a mature camellia japonica and an American Fringe tree. The branches (if removed) will leave a “hole” on the plant and be quite unsightly. Will they recover or is it too late to get rid of the crossing branches?
Love your videos! I bought a house and started my 1st garden in '21 without any prior knowledge whatsoever, lol! Couldn't have done it without you! Could you please explain more about pruning trees. I'm confused about how to know where the new growth will come if I prune, or if I might permanently stop growth (ie. does pruning the top always cause bottom growth, will pruning the left side cause growth on the right side, or trigger growth on the left??, will cuts cause one new branch to grow or 2 - one in each direction? etc.). Specifically, I have an "Autumn Brilliance" multitrunk Serviceberry (planted 2 years ago, Zone 6B SW Ohio), with only 1 spindly branch on the left side of the left most trunk. It makes it look lopsided, as if it's planted crooked, but I don't think it really is. Is there a way to prune it to encourage growth on that left limb, particularly the left side of it? Thanks so much for sharing all your wisdom and experience!
Jim first off love your channel, lots of good tips and an all round great watch. I do have some pruning questions, I have very tall lavender bushes that I want to lower and make smaller, I am 50 miles sw Chicago, when and any tips to cut these back? Second questions question is how to best prune and reshape a bush that has grown over our driveway, dont want to scratch the new car so want to reshape this . I have been sawing off larger branches first then thinking of using my hedge trimmer to make new shape, any tips would be great appreciated
Hi Jim. Due to the height of my house, there is part of my garden that is pretty full sun in summer but almost full shade in winter. The part shade plants I tried there often struggle with the summer sun. Any recommendations? Maybe sun plants that can tolerate a long dark winter?
I live in zone 5b , want to rejuvenate 30+ year old blueberry bushes. Can I cut them down to about three feet? Thank you for sharing all your knowledge, love your show
I hope my Fat Albert Blue spruce does well for me here in MS zone 7-8
If I'm starting to start seeds can I do it in my outdoor building that doesn't have heat, I live in Covington n.a., 30 miles from Athens, know you've been there. I was going to use grow light just wondering if the building was too cold,
It will need heat for seeds to get going. A heat mat at least, heat is what tells them to get going.
Jim, thanks for all of your informative videos! I have a question about the plant sizes listed on tags. I’ve heard that you typically should expect a shrub/tree to grow taller than what’s listed on the tag, especially if you are planning more than 5-8 years out. Is that true? I’m trying to make sure I’m planting in the right place and won’t have to move plants or prune heavily years from now because they grew too tall. (Or stayed too short!)
Some examples:
Camellia Sasanqua (October Magic orchid) says 4-5’ tall and I want to place under windows that start 5’ up, so I don’t want it much taller. (However I have decades old camellia japonica that I struggle to keep below 12’ tall, so I know that with time, some camellia can get big.)
Conversely, would something like a Lime Delight Arborvitae or Steeds Holly really stay at 6 feet tall years after planting? I’d love to use them in an area where I’m looking for privacy 6-10’ from the ground (with time and patience of course) without having to keep up with constant pruning.
(PS… I’m in Zone 7, Richmond, Va)
I use slow release in bigger pots putting plastic pots in there. Dirt slow release . Then water there.😊 What do think?
Feelin' blue deodar cedar is a good low variety.
Do you have videos on fruit tree care in the South? I’m in zone 7b/8a piedmont area in Georgia. Planning a backyard orchard with an unseated greenhouse I’m dying to use!!! I wanna push the limits and grow as much fruit as possible.
Jim I left my leaves in my yard like you did. Will you mulch over them?
Hi Jim, what is the
Weeping tree behind you ? I had a gorgeous weeping cherry tree and a weeping maple back in NJ. I moved to the Alabama gulf coast and would love something like that down here.
What’s the correct way to prune pieris after they bloom? Do I really need to go to each individual set of hanging blooms and prune them off? If so, is there an easier approach?
I recently got a dwarf weeping pussywillow (double grafted) and it’s almost done flowering. The limbs are very long, it’s grown a lot. The directions said to keep it in plenty of sun(goes outdoors during the day) but do not plant it in the ground till danger of frost is over. My questions is at what time of year do you prune these type of weeping small trees? The limbs on this pussywillow are actually longer than it is tall. So currently if it wasn’t in a container the limbs would be all over the ground. I think it’ll need a prune before it’s planted in ground but I’m thinking it may be a little late to prune it because it’s leafing out now.
What ever happened to that invasive vine you chopped on in the tree behind your property? Any plans to keep going?
1. Can you drastically trim back a Fire Bush that has become overgrown? 2. Will you be putting mulch down over top of the leaves and if so, will you be shredding them first? 🪴💚
For chipping plants (branches, twigs, etc.), are there certain plants you would avoid chipping? I think you mentioned previously to be careful chipping thorny plants like roses because the canes are thrashed around. For example, are there plants that might start seedlings from chipped plant material?
Question! How do I improve the soil of established garden beds (for better drainage for heavy clay)? I have been using a compost mulch for many years but that only seems to be helping in the top several inches, not all the way down to where I dig to plant. I’m in Western Oregon, 8b. Very wet but then SUPER dry in the summer. Plus, I’m starting to notice mounding of the mulch around my plants, making them be kind of down in impressions in the soil. Not sure what to do. Thanks!
I garden in Virginia zone 7B. Do you think that black-lace elderberry will do well here. The tag said it can be grown up to zone 8, but last summer it looked like it got burned due to summer heat. the plant is still alive, but it not seems to grow as quick as I think. I planted them last year, so it is still a small plant
Hello 🌿! I planted hydrangeas shrubs last spring , and over the year kept adding more good compost and mulch around them - now with the new soil level they seem to be planted too deep. Should I dig them up and adjust the depth, or that would disrupt them too much and it’s better just to leave them as they are ?
Question: I have been successful potting and growing Japanese Maple seedlings that sprout in my yard from a neighbor's tree. That tree is grafted. The seedlings have been successfully grown in the ground after transplanting from the pots, but of course are not grafted. Can I expect that the seedling tree will successfully grow to maturity, since it is not grafted, and should it remain true to the foliage type of the above ground grafted tree? Thanks for all the education!
Q: I missed planting the alliums last fall. When should I put them in: now (the soil is wet and I’m afraid the bulbs will rot) or later in March (when it’s somewhat drier and sunny)? 7a
When would you recommend planting Liatris bulbs directly in the ground in Charlotte zone 8a?
Hi Jim...I have a Japanese Thunderhead pine in zone 7B in Virginia...I noticed one of the branches is very heavy and hanging to one side...should I give it some sort of support or cut it off? I know they are rather free form...but I am afraid it might break.
Thanks for your wisdom!
Thanks Jim.❄️🫠💚🙃
Hi Jim and Stephanie, love your channel! I've been trying to grow hardy gardenia (Frostproof) for years in Seattle zone 8A/7B. Unfortunately every time i plant them in the ground they die. I've tried to plant them in a few different sites (full sun, part shade, slightly raised up, etc.). I've made sure that they get a little acid loving fertilizer in early spring, but they always start looking peaky, pale, turn brown, and by the second year just look awful or outright die. What's weirder is i have two in pots that are probably seven years old that are doing fine.. When i did plant them in the ground i planted them close to some concrete retaining walls. Could the concrete be affecting soil ph? Thank you!
Gardening Question: I've been buying a ton of conifers (blue Atlas cedars, Deodar Cedars and Austrian Pine. They've come in from Oregon, I'm in North Texas, 8a. Is there any reason I shouldn't put them in the ground right now? They're cold hardy plants; I want them to establish before summer.
Im really having problems creating a tropical landscape 🏝️ on the east side of by home in zone 9 houston area close to the coast were i get about morning sun and shade the rest of the day can you recommend some perennials? ❤
What would I be able to plant near a very large black walnut? I've seen conflicting lists of what will grow under them and thrive. NC Zone 7b/8
Hi Jim, do you need to take any action if soil with a groundcover growing on it has been compacted? I had to intensively tread on an area with relatively young vinca plants (1,5 years old) in order to fix an underground power line that I accidentally damaged with a shovel. Will the vinca in the compacted area recover over time?
Hi Jim! zone 7b Oklahoma. I have three dwarf loropetalums that look dead. Leaves are droopy or dropped, and the branches are brittle. This was their first winter with me, and Oklahoma had a few sudden cold snaps. Do you think they’re dead? When should I give up? Thanks!
The oak leaves just fell in North Florida 9B and I am using them for the first time in my flower beds. Will I still need to put my normal pine bark mulch on top at some point? Does using leaf mulch interfere at all with water getting to the plants?
I also want to add a small path by side of the house which slopes down toward a wetland at the back,I was going to edge the outside and use small river rock, I hear bad things about weed layer underneath so would sharp sand be better? Or should I lay the rock direct on the cleaned up soil? Again your thoughts on this would be welcome
I have a Gentsch White Hemlock bush I bought last year. I need to move it to a shadier location. Would it work under a fully mature Magnolia tree in Central Illinois zone 6? About 6 foot from the trunk of the tree?
Are there sunflower seeds that can grow in a large container that won't compete for space or grow too large? (Habitat for humanity cottage style home). Narrow porch.
What are your thoughts on the Rising Sun redbud or any yellow redbud?
What's your opinion on Grow bags versus nursery pot
does round-up kill dormant st. aug. grass? starting a new garden in 9A. i know some folks don't like round-up, but i have no problem with it. thanks. you have a great channel.
Herbicides only work on actively growing plants if it’s dormant the plant won’t take it in so it does nothing and is a waste
Hi, Jim and Stephanie! I have a Daphne ‘Rebecca’ that I’ve had in the ground for about 3 years. It hasn’t grown much (about 18” in diameter). Every year when it blooms, its leaves are pitiful - slightly shriveled, brown edges, dropped leaves. Its blooms are lovely and fragrant but the leaves just look sad. What am I doing wrong here in Zone 7b (Virginia)? Since it is still so small, can it be moved? Thanks!
I've got a Spartan juniper I planted last year that ended up leaning. What's the best way to correct the lean? Do I dig around the roots a bit and pull it to the side? Do I need to stake it? It's about 5' tall now.
Speaking of air layering, I have several oddball conifers (Alaskan cedar and Serbian spruce) that I’d like to multiply. Is the fact that they’re grafted onto other rootstock a sign that they can’t be propagated by air layering?
We have an area shaded by a Japanese maple right beside a concrete driveway which sheds rainwater over the area. Could hellebores survive the occasional soaking like this as it does drain off in a couple days? Really enjoy youe videos!
If that area is actually still soggy 2-3 days after a hard rain , then your hellebores prob won't survive. They like moist soil but will likely succumb to root rots if the soil doesn't drain well. They can survive just fine in dry conditions but not overly wet
Hi Jim. I have a very sad looking Blue Cloak Fir here in 6b Eastern Kansas. I’ve had it less than a year, and it is growing in a container. It has lost about 50% of its needles but the branches are still limber. Is this normal or is this one a goner? Thanks!