we mostly use back boiler systems here in the uk, that is basically a radiator bolted to the back of the stove or built into it, ive thought about this for years but never seen one in practice, good find sir and i look forward to hearing how it went on installation...
I was a chimney sweep. Have you seen rust (water) or black (creosote) lines running down the outside of the flue pipe? When you are assembling the flue pipe the male end of the pipe ALWAYS goes DOWN no exceptions. (so your unit will be upside dn). All fluids stay inside the pipe all the way down to the fire box. If you have a flue fire it WILL follow the cracks to outside the flue. If creosote is glossy use ACS, clean, seasoned wood, no glossy colored paper. Trying to keep you safe. Keep at it.
I'm in Australia and putting a slow combustion stove in out home. With the male/females ends of the chimney, what happend if there is extensions outside the roof would rain get in if male end is facing down ?
I wonder if a ss pressure cooker w an inlet and outlet installed on top, inlet being a pipe to bottom, outlet can just be threaded male, maybe pressure valve controllable? or stop it up and install a T&P valve after outlet then to tank. Put it on a burner of Box stove so flames hit the pot directly, this way you can scrape creosote that might form with ease... You're almost set up to test, see if different positioning of heat exchanger reduces creosote.Good vid, keep it up! CO detector is good!
@beastlyjamie the old water heaters have some very important advantages: They are already two-walled with insulation, and they already have the inlet and outlet pipes in the correct places and with the correct sized pipes and the threads to fit standard water pipes. Although you can insulate any tank, those pipe characteristics are serious disadvantages of propane tanks, so much so that for most people they will not work at all.
@VintageWorkbench Yes, to some degree, but not because you ingest the silver but because it kills germs on contact. People used to keep food in silver containers because it was a sort of food preserver. Farmers used to drop a silver dollar in the bottom of their milk containers because they learned that the milk would keep longer before it spoiled. The Ancient Romans used silver containers to help purify water and keep it fresh longer.
@Mainerism I take the pipes apart each year and check them. The vertical section is never any problem but there is some build up on the horizontal section (which stays very hot.) I run a brush through it before the Winter season and there is no problem. This stove is not the means we use to heat our house. It is an emergency backup in case we lose all other sources of energy and resort to wood. It will keep us and our pipes from freezing. I do burn it some each year to keep the wood pile fresh.
i live in france and have always heated the house with a wood-fired stove. Now I also have electric heating in addition to the wood stove. The wood is too heavy. But the wood stove is still burning. From the start, this stove has a large boiler with water. Day and night. That way I always have warm to hot water. That works great, without a lot of renovation with dangerous conditions. I also heat my food, draw broth and stew meat. Everything on a large stove makes a huge difference in costs when using electricity.
Thanks for the ideas and showing a great way to heat the water, I sure don't get the rude and negative comments it's like some people have nothing better to do than try to tear down someone else, anyway great job.
Should be mentioned that pulling too much heat out of the stovepipe, can cause problems with the draft of the stovepipe, and can cause belching smoke and poisonous gasses back into your heated space.
Pulling the heat out of the exhaust smoke doesn't come free. Cooling the smoke causes tars, liquids, and solids to condense out of the wood gas like dirty rain inside the pipe. (Creosote.) That stuff is flammable, and if gets hot enough it will flame inside the chimney. So it needs to be cleaned regularly.
I had to chuckle at the opening sentence of your post. If people want to heat water using their wood stove they could integrate a heat exchanger in the lower part of the firebox or in the perimeter of the stove.
Good job with the video... A nice low cost wood stove hot water system... Just keep an eye out for soot buildup within the stovepipes. You would not want a stovepipe fire in long horizontal runs. I am using a concrete chimney to extract heat for DHW. The basic idea is the same but there less chance of stove pipe fire.
~~~The water jacket, if packed with insulation will take mostly radiant heat from the stack. Adding a backflow preventer will slow water flow down (vs a pump) and increase heat absorption without calling for much BTU from the stack and decide flow direction. I build these water heaters and recommend also installing a small radiator. I use a heater core from a car at the storage tank with a temperature controlled valve diversion. must also have a pop off valve. The long stack is an issue in conjunction with the water heater. There should be no more than 12 to 15 feet of stack. However, You could make a steel plate and put into firebox 2 inches under top, closed on the sides and have it 90 down the back two inches away from back and 5 inches away from bottom of firebox. (For stove used here) This would burn off the creosote gasses and keep the flu fairly clean as burning the gases will increase BTU's. (Like a rocket stove, but not as harsh) You will burn less wood and create more BTU and have almost no smoke. I also install a wye, a damper and have two flu's to choose from. Diverting after you have heated your water. Water would still heat some but not head on (a trickle water heater). This is important. All this can be auto controlled by temp whether under a pressurized system or passive. Regardless of which, passive or not, the water should be a loop Only going to the storage and never to an end user appliance. The radiator will help prevent steam and lower pressures associated with it. And assist in heating utility room.
@Mainerism I realize this post is 3 mos old now, but I thought I might chime in with more of what Maine has stated. When you burn wood as your primary source of heat, it is important for maintenance of the pipes and chimney tiles to keep that creosote from building up. Getting the right size stove is important as the first step. Most will clean their chimneys and pipes around once a month in the winter to keep the creosote from being an issue. Simple dis-assembly usually keeps the pipes fresh.
Sweet, I bet this works sweet. Plus you could eve heat a big tank of water and it would radiate heat plus provide hot water. Also since you have the room the long pipe was a good idea. I cant use a long pipe on my wood stove (not enough room) and konw the heat is going outside.Real nice find. Im going to keep my eyes peeled for one of those. Thanks for the vid!
nice video...question: should you have the vertical rise straight out of the stove (like you say 3 feet or more) and THEN start angling horizontally like say 15 degrees from the horizontal?
So how has it worked out for you ?, Have you got it fully hooked up and running ?. I see you have a grasp of steam and pressure and the dangers that goes with it, but from seeing that diagram, I would suggest some check valves, pressure regulators, multiple (reduntant) pressure relief safety valves, and a shut off / bypass system.
@ArlynB101 I regularly burn the creosote remover. Additionally, I periodically take the pipes apart and check them. I have a steel brush to run through them when needed. Yes, it is something to watch out for to prevent flue fires.
I know the vid is 3 years old now but beware the lack of draft after heating water, extended stove pipe cooling hot gases and stove pipe heater blower at far end. This would constitute a threat of Carbon Monoxide backflow into the living space. Go for it, be there but be alive. Install CO detector.
How hot does the water get coming off the stove pipe? I had some cpvc hooked about a foot from my copper in and out and when i fired the stove up the cpvc almost exploded. So, i am going with copper out on the bottom of the tank and out to the cold water side in the top with a check valve on the cold water inlet coming in allowing me to get heat to the cold water side below the outlet prior to that. Now, i have to get me a 150-175 degree blow off valve cause that water line get super hot.
@Clicklc1500 It has taken me a while to find a used water heater that is just the right size (small.) I just recently found one (10 gal) at an estate sale for $15. Now that I have the water heater I can continue with the project when I have time (the key.) I will make a new video (part 2) when it is completed.
This was a great vid, could we see the tank hookup please. Just moved to the country and looking to be a little more self sufficient. This looks like a brilliant idea!
When wind hits the roof and goes over, it creates a down. Your flue pipe should be at least 2'-3' above the highest point of your roof. Trees that have grown to tall will also affect the draw. In spring clean flue,tape a plastic bag over pipe. Ash and water eat metal fast. Don't forget to remove next yr (I've done it you'll know house fills up). It'll keep the cresote stink out of your house from down drafts on damp days. Keep away from 90's use 45's, stay close to vertical. Staying safe. Hooter
Thanks for the great video. Do you have trouble with creosote buildup in the horizontal parts or turns in your stovepipe? Are there any other things to watch out for with a horizontal stovepipe? I love that idea.
You don't have enough vertical pipe to get the chimney effect. The way it works is heat rises. You need a long section of vertical pipe for the heat to rise, creating a draft, which pulls the smoke out the pipe. I get absolutely NO smoke in the room because I have a huge 3 floor vertical section which creates a huge draft. You can do this on the outside of your home. Put a vertical piece of pipe. It doesn't have to be that long. 3 ft might do it. 6 feet would be great of vertical pipe, not total
@squatchman22 No, still working on it. I've secured a 10 gallon water heater that is perfect, but I am considering how I want to hook this up (integrate it with the house water system or make an entirely different independent water system for when the municipal water goes dry. I am leaning toward the latter.)
@mitm19 I think you mean carbon monoxide and not carbon dioxide. No gasket is needed. As long as there is a good draft all gases go up the flue. There is a long up shaft (two floors) and the updraft is very strong. But just in case I have a battery operated carbon monoxide detector in the area. Good point. I watch the creosote build up, burning creosote remover periodically and also taking the pipes apart every year or two to check more closely and to run a cleaning brush through them.
12 років тому
I'd put a pump to circulate the water in that exchanger... On some experiments I did trying to get the water moving by convection I found that it will start to boil at the bottom of the coil and make a lot of noise... otherwise harmless for the installation, it would drive me nuts. How's that thing behaving?
if you wanted to get away from the pressure valve you could vent it out side or in the room which would put humidity into the room if you wanted to go with a pressure valve you could easily obtain one at a dump off a old water heater I would recommend using two in a series for safety.
+Marc A Gagnon being you just basically made the water heater into a boiler which has higher temps(165-180ish) then water heaters , may want to get one made for boilers so you arnt always burping hot water out a electric water heater relief valve that's not meant to go above 140 f
Hi, Some very reputable stove manufacturers in the UK have tried this system and withdrew them from the market because they were dangerous in two ways, they were causing the flue gas to drop so far in temperature the flue would block with creosote and some people were trying to install them without the safety of a feed and expansion tank. What I can guarantee you is they will not pass building control and your insurer will not pay out on any claim if you fit one of these.
i make these type of water heaters, but they are 44" long with 30' of 3/8/ ID, 1/2 OD copper tubing. it takes about 3 nights after work to build them. if interested i can sell them for $400 each, or make a custom one.
I had one of those stoves, in my barn I did not like it. its not a sealed unit so it can leak smoke into the building. its not airtight so its also in-efficient. that stove is still sold today but its a very old design. you would be much better with a burn tube EPA certified wood stove. much more efficient .
Did you ever hook this up to a tank? I searched for an updated video and couldnt find one... I'm thinking of taking my tank out from under my house and moving it to the addition behind the wood stove... Gonna get a smaller tank too maybe link the two tanks
To anyone in the UK watching this, it is illegal to have any horizontal pipe in your woodburner flue. This is because there is a high risk of soot collecting in it which can cause chimney fires. It will also void your house insurance.
The only way to do this safely is to have a powered draft. When you cool the flue gas, it slows down, becomes denser, and creosote formation increases. The GARN wood furnace is an example. It safely heats water, but then again, it's a powered draft.
We make efficient stoves here as well..EPA phase II compliant and 75%+ fuel efficient. The unit pictured is a Boxwood heater and is an exempt stove since it is used for cooking and is not airtight. The homeowner/installer is capitalizing on the heat lost up the flue because this stove pulls in excess room air. As a professional I cannot install that stove because it is not UL listed and tested..same with the add-ons. People are trying to re-learn basics before the coming economic crash. Go easy.
am i right in saying that this will only heat the water run through the heat exchanger to the out let (tap) would it not be better to heat a tank so that you have a store of hotwater and not just when the stove is lit .
If you intend to put the box INSIDE the stove, the problem is that unless your system always has wter in it, the heat in youir fire will melt the copper pipes( and before that, the brass olives)(compraession rings 0 if you connect them using threaded conectors, Back boilers are designed to work in flue gases, Easier to just put a 22 or 28 mm stainless steel pipe through the fire on a slope, and then connect to tank.
I have the same stove. Have you gotten the box and damper collar cherry red as i have once? If so, did it concern you about the stoves ability to handle the high heat.
There is so many things wrong with this set-up. In an emergency, I completely understand: you do what you need to do for short term survival. However, if this contraption should NEVER be used in a daily situation. The Laws of Physics apply to everyone. One does not need a fancy degree from the University of Michigan to understand these laws. The Building Inspector would condemn this on the spot. If there was a fire, the insurance company would not pay.
Never realized the explosion a water heater with faulty safety valve can cause until home near here blew up. I mean it blew the place to smithereens, killed the occupant. Be safe brother.
There is a formula for flue size for the size of the fireplace opening. HxWxD ??? Getting old I just can't remember it. If someone out there has it would help anyone building there own stove so it'll draw right and not smoke when you open it, trouble with smoke rolling out the door. Crack it and wait till it starts to draw. If still smokes cut diff. size pieces of cardboard place it across the top of the opening until it stops. Replace with metal one and hinge on inside so it swinges in. Later
+John Canivan there is a internal pipe on the inside of the coil and another cylinder around outside of the coil for insulation and so the coil is not exposed to direct flame
By cooling the exhaust below a safe temp. causes the soot that John is speaking about. This setup with so much heat removed from the exhaust is actually a fire hazard if not cleaned out REGULARLY!!
Hi, I've got a question. Do you think there is a health benefit to eating with sterling flatware rather than stainless steel? Would there be any beneficial silver transfer to the body? Oops this belongs on your colloidal silver video- very good by the way. Thanks John
@warbirdsp51 i have a wood burnning stove in my house and one time i therw a cople of cholet donets (the small ones) it got the flew pipe red hot and it scared the crap out of me and o couldnt put it out by shutting the door it just got biger i hade to use a fire extinguisher to put it out but i dont tink it was good for it =\
@jklstewart That's a good topic for another video some day. I do have a camping shower purchased in a camping store which consists of a large black plastic bag that you hang in the sun. After a few hours the water is hot and you can take a shower under it (it includes a shower head attached to the bag-a very simple device but ingenious as well.)
@willibill1 i have a ?? i have made a prity good size boiler now will i get more power out of the wood for my boiler if i use a blower or is it better to let it say rocket out the stack (if u want to see the boiler i beleve its a video responce or its on my channel =3-
@Mrphatbastard1 The smoke isn't cooled nearly enough to affect the draw. I take this apart about once a year and run a brush through it to make sure creosote isn't building up to a dangerous level.
this looks good. id rather use an open barrel of water myself to get some humidity into the room and allow for the heat to just dissipate. imagine if you had a 200 degree 55 gallon drum of water. youd have heat for hours after your stove's fire went out.
I look at the drawing and I think there is a problem .. entered the cold water sinks to the bottom and should not be up for that water becomes warm. and its more effective, the water tank pipe should be on the cold water line to the water warms up before going into tank, otherwise I think it is not effective, the water is already hot before back in the water tank pipe. ???
Instead of all that, just put a mini still on top of the woodstove. You'll be reclaiming some more heat, and producing a useful end product that can be used for engine fuel, electrical power generation, or drink :-) .
Marty Collins i filled in all the cracks with some very high temp sealant and it eventually got dried out and broke off so I'm trying to make a heat exchanger now thx
I'd throw in a couple of sheet metal screws to secure your stove pipe/hot water heater to the stove; if someone were to just bump it, it would probably come off. Otherwise, a great idea.
I like your ideas, except for that spring wrapped around at first was kind of hokey. I have trouble with my stove pipe rusting out like every year. It's discouraging. Wish there was a source for good stovepipe that wasn't a ripoff like stainless or rust-i-ful. I guess rain and smoke do the dirtywork.
Be careful with that thing. Make sure you clean your chimney fairly often. Due to the water being heated, it will cause your flue gasses to cool down thus creating more creosote buildup in your chimney. That isn't a good thing and can cause chimney fires. Just to let you know. Good luck!
we mostly use back boiler systems here in the uk, that is basically a radiator bolted to the back of the stove or built into it, ive thought about this for years but never seen one in practice, good find sir and i look forward to hearing how it went on installation...
I was a chimney sweep. Have you seen rust (water) or black (creosote) lines running down the outside of the flue pipe? When you are assembling the flue pipe the male end of the pipe ALWAYS goes DOWN no exceptions. (so your unit will be upside dn). All fluids stay inside the pipe all the way down to the fire box. If you have a flue fire it WILL follow the cracks to outside the flue. If creosote is glossy use ACS, clean, seasoned wood, no glossy colored paper. Trying to keep you safe.
Keep at it.
I'm in Australia and putting a slow combustion stove in out home. With the male/females ends of the chimney, what happend if there is extensions outside the roof would rain get in if male end is facing down ?
I wonder if a ss pressure cooker w an inlet and outlet installed on top, inlet being a pipe to bottom, outlet can just be threaded male, maybe pressure valve controllable? or stop it up and install a T&P valve after outlet then to tank. Put it on a burner of Box stove so flames hit the pot directly, this way you can scrape creosote that might form with ease... You're almost set up to test, see if different positioning of heat exchanger reduces creosote.Good vid, keep it up! CO detector is good!
@beastlyjamie the old water heaters have some very important advantages: They are already two-walled with insulation, and they already have the inlet and outlet pipes in the correct places and with the correct sized pipes and the threads to fit standard water pipes. Although you can insulate any tank, those pipe characteristics are serious disadvantages of propane tanks, so much so that for most people they will not work at all.
@VintageWorkbench Yes, to some degree, but not because you ingest the silver but because it kills germs on contact. People used to keep food in silver containers because it was a sort of food preserver. Farmers used to drop a silver dollar in the bottom of their milk containers because they learned that the milk would keep longer before it spoiled. The Ancient Romans used silver containers to help purify water and keep it fresh longer.
@Mainerism I take the pipes apart each year and check them. The vertical section is never any problem but there is some build up on the horizontal section (which stays very hot.) I run a brush through it before the Winter season and there is no problem. This stove is not the means we use to heat our house. It is an emergency backup in case we lose all other sources of energy and resort to wood. It will keep us and our pipes from freezing. I do burn it some each year to keep the wood pile fresh.
great idea, would like to find one but where??
i live in france and have always heated the house with a wood-fired stove. Now I also have electric heating in addition to the wood stove. The wood is too heavy. But the wood stove is still burning. From the start, this stove has a large boiler with water. Day and night. That way I always have warm to hot water. That works great, without a lot of renovation with dangerous conditions. I also heat my food, draw broth and stew meat. Everything on a large stove makes a huge difference in costs when using electricity.
Thanks for the ideas and showing a great way to heat the water, I sure don't get the rude and negative comments it's like some people have nothing better to do than try to tear down someone else, anyway great job.
Should be mentioned that pulling too much heat out of the stovepipe, can cause problems with the draft of the stovepipe, and can cause belching smoke and poisonous gasses back into your heated space.
Pulling the heat out of the exhaust smoke doesn't come free. Cooling the smoke causes tars, liquids, and solids to condense out of the wood gas like dirty rain inside the pipe. (Creosote.) That stuff is flammable, and if gets hot enough it will flame inside the chimney. So it needs to be cleaned regularly.
I had to chuckle at the opening sentence of your post. If people want to heat water using their wood stove they could integrate a heat exchanger in the lower part of the firebox or in the perimeter of the stove.
this is really neat and would be really easy to build i wander how hot it could make the water
Love watching all rocket stove burners & water heater.great stuff everyone, (choo toot) .love all the great ideas guys.Fill from England .x
Good job with the video... A nice low cost wood stove hot water system... Just keep an eye out for soot buildup within the stovepipes. You would not want a stovepipe fire in long horizontal runs. I am using a concrete chimney to extract heat for DHW. The basic idea is the same but there less chance of stove pipe fire.
~~~The water jacket, if packed with insulation will take mostly radiant heat from the stack. Adding a backflow preventer will slow water flow down (vs a pump) and increase heat absorption without calling for much BTU from the stack and decide flow direction. I build these water heaters and recommend also installing a small radiator. I use a heater core from a car at the storage tank with a temperature controlled valve diversion. must also have a pop off valve. The long stack is an issue in conjunction with the water heater. There should be no more than 12 to 15 feet of stack. However,
You could make a steel plate and put into firebox 2 inches under top, closed on the sides and have it 90 down the back two inches away from back and 5 inches away from bottom of firebox. (For stove used here) This would burn off the creosote gasses and keep the flu fairly clean as burning the gases will increase BTU's. (Like a rocket stove, but not as harsh) You will burn less wood and create more BTU and have almost no smoke. I also install a wye, a damper and have two flu's to choose from. Diverting after you have heated your water. Water would still heat some but not head on (a trickle water heater). This is important. All this can be auto controlled by temp whether under a pressurized system or passive. Regardless of which, passive or not, the water should be a loop Only going to the storage and never to an end user appliance. The radiator will help prevent steam and lower pressures associated with it. And assist in heating utility room.
@Mainerism I realize this post is 3 mos old now, but I thought I might chime in with more of what Maine has stated. When you burn wood as your primary source of heat, it is important for maintenance of the pipes and chimney tiles to keep that creosote from building up. Getting the right size stove is important as the first step. Most will clean their chimneys and pipes around once a month in the winter to keep the creosote from being an issue. Simple dis-assembly usually keeps the pipes fresh.
@warbirdsp51 No I haven't. You should try to avoid that. It's a small stove and isn't made to heat your whole house.
you struck gold with that hot water heater/chimney!
great video - I have a couple of videos on how I heat my hot water too . Mine is in the plenum of the wood furnace
Please give a detailed review of this stove, how it made and how it works
Sweet, I bet this works sweet. Plus you could eve heat a big tank of water and it would radiate heat plus provide hot water. Also since you have the room the long pipe was a good idea. I cant use a long pipe on my wood stove (not enough room) and konw the heat is going outside.Real nice find. Im going to keep my eyes peeled for one of those. Thanks for the vid!
nice video...question: should you have the vertical rise straight out of the stove (like you say 3 feet or more) and THEN start angling horizontally like say 15 degrees from the horizontal?
So how has it worked out for you ?, Have you got it fully hooked up and running ?. I see you have a grasp of steam and pressure and the dangers that goes with it, but from seeing that diagram, I would suggest some check valves, pressure regulators, multiple (reduntant) pressure relief safety valves, and a shut off / bypass system.
@ArlynB101 I regularly burn the creosote remover. Additionally, I periodically take the pipes apart and check them. I have a steel brush to run through them when needed. Yes, it is something to watch out for to prevent flue fires.
I know the vid is 3 years old now but beware the lack of draft after heating water, extended stove pipe cooling hot gases and stove pipe heater blower at far end. This would constitute a threat of Carbon Monoxide backflow into the living space. Go for it, be there but be alive. Install CO detector.
True. He almost needs a power vent motor
thanks for sharing..haven't even purchased my stove yet, nice to see i'll be able to get more mile
age out of it!
i thought the springs were simple but genius great vid
How hot does the water get coming off the stove pipe? I had some cpvc hooked about a foot from my copper in and out and when i fired the stove up the cpvc almost exploded. So, i am going with copper out on the bottom of the tank and out to the cold water side in the top with a check valve on the cold water inlet coming in allowing me to get heat to the cold water side below the outlet prior to that. Now, i have to get me a 150-175 degree blow off valve cause that water line get super hot.
@Clicklc1500 It has taken me a while to find a used water heater that is just the right size (small.) I just recently found one (10 gal) at an estate sale for $15. Now that I have the water heater I can continue with the project when I have time (the key.) I will make a new video (part 2) when it is completed.
no more videos in this series... i would love to see how you continued
This was a great vid, could we see the tank hookup please. Just moved to the country and looking to be a little more self sufficient. This looks like a brilliant idea!
Can someone explain the idea behind the springs on the stove pipe. Does it even do anything at all?
When wind hits the roof and goes over, it creates a down. Your flue pipe should be at least 2'-3' above the highest point of your roof. Trees that have grown to tall will also affect the draw. In spring clean flue,tape a plastic bag over pipe. Ash and water eat metal fast. Don't forget to remove next yr (I've done it you'll know house fills up). It'll keep the cresote stink out of your house from down drafts on damp days. Keep away from 90's use 45's, stay close to vertical. Staying safe.
Hooter
You are awesome. I love these videos!
Thanks for the great video. Do you have trouble with creosote
buildup in the horizontal parts or turns in your stovepipe? Are there any other things to watch out for with a horizontal stovepipe? I love that idea.
You don't have enough vertical pipe to get the chimney effect. The way it works is heat rises. You need a long section of vertical pipe for the heat to rise, creating a draft, which pulls the smoke out the pipe. I get absolutely NO smoke in the room because I have a huge 3 floor vertical section which creates a huge draft. You can do this on the outside of your home. Put a vertical piece of pipe. It doesn't have to be that long. 3 ft might do it. 6 feet would be great of vertical pipe, not total
@squatchman22 No, still working on it. I've secured a 10 gallon water heater that is perfect, but I am considering how I want to hook this up (integrate it with the house water system or make an entirely different independent water system for when the municipal water goes dry. I am leaning toward the latter.)
try putting a pot on that gets narrower at the top or that has a curve, i think it helps create more draft.
@mitm19 I think you mean carbon monoxide and not carbon dioxide. No gasket is needed. As long as there is a good draft all gases go up the flue. There is a long up shaft (two floors) and the updraft is very strong. But just in case I have a battery operated carbon monoxide detector in the area. Good point. I watch the creosote build up, burning creosote remover periodically and also taking the pipes apart every year or two to check more closely and to run a cleaning brush through them.
I'd put a pump to circulate the water in that exchanger... On some experiments I did trying to get the water moving by convection I found that it will start to boil at the bottom of the coil and make a lot of noise... otherwise harmless for the installation, it would drive me nuts.
How's that thing behaving?
if you wanted to get away from the pressure valve you could vent it out side or in the room which would put humidity into the room if you wanted to go with a pressure valve you could easily obtain one at a dump off a old water heater I would recommend using two in a series for safety.
+Marc A Gagnon being you just basically made the water heater into a boiler which has higher temps(165-180ish) then water heaters , may want to get one made for boilers so you arnt always burping hot water out a electric water heater relief valve that's not meant to go above 140 f
Correct me if 'm wrong but when copper touches other metals it creates a electrolysis problem and the pipe and the copper corrodes.
Hi,
Some very reputable stove manufacturers in the UK have tried this system and withdrew them from the market because they were dangerous in two ways, they were causing the flue gas to drop so far in temperature the flue would block with creosote and some people were trying to install them without the safety of a feed and expansion tank.
What I can guarantee you is they will not pass building control and your insurer will not pay out on any claim if you fit one of these.
When I need hot water, I put a pan on the stove. I use two quarts for washing dishes and two quarts for bathing.
I like the idea of the system I'll be looking or building one for myself thanks and good luck.
Exactly what I need - but how do I get one?
Awesome! You can cook your meal on the woodstove an still make warm water for the shower!
i make these type of water heaters, but they are 44" long with 30' of 3/8/ ID, 1/2 OD copper tubing. it takes about 3 nights after work to build them. if interested i can sell them for $400 each, or make a custom one.
I had one of those stoves, in my barn I did not like it. its not a sealed unit so it can leak smoke into the building. its not airtight so its also in-efficient. that stove is still sold today but its a very old design. you would be much better with a burn tube EPA certified wood stove. much more efficient .
Did you ever hook this up to a tank? I searched for an updated video and couldnt find one... I'm thinking of taking my tank out from under my house and moving it to the addition behind the wood stove... Gonna get a smaller tank too maybe link the two tanks
Very clever. Just be careful not to get too much soot buildup inside your pipes due to condensation on a clod surface.
Nice detail. I’m learning
To anyone in the UK watching this, it is illegal to have any horizontal pipe in your woodburner flue. This is because there is a high risk of soot collecting in it which can cause chimney fires. It will also void your house insurance.
To anyone anywhere this is a fire hazard
The only way to do this safely is to have a powered draft. When you cool the flue gas, it slows down, becomes denser, and creosote formation increases.
The GARN wood furnace is an example. It safely heats water, but then again, it's a powered draft.
Great video, I look forward to seeing the others that you have.
We make efficient stoves here as well..EPA phase II compliant and 75%+ fuel efficient. The unit pictured is a Boxwood heater and is an exempt stove since it is used for cooking and is not airtight. The homeowner/installer is capitalizing on the heat lost up the flue because this stove pulls in excess room air. As a professional I cannot install that stove because it is not UL listed and tested..same with the add-ons. People are trying to re-learn basics before the coming economic crash. Go easy.
Great work as always!
@kainejoyes you said that it does your hot water, cooling and heating all at the same time. How do you do cooling with your rocket stove?
Cool video. Do you know if this was a manufactured or home made excanger? Is there a coil of pipe inside the shell, or is it an open plenum?
my dad has a small radiator (i think it might be a car oil cooler) in the back of the fire box. it would be much much better for water heating
am i right in saying that this will only heat the water run through the heat exchanger to the out let (tap) would it not be better to heat a tank so that you have a store of hotwater and not just when the stove is lit .
If you intend to put the box INSIDE the stove, the problem is that unless your system always has wter in it, the heat in youir fire will melt the copper pipes( and before that, the brass olives)(compraession rings 0 if you connect them using threaded conectors, Back boilers are designed to work in flue gases, Easier to just put a 22 or 28 mm stainless steel pipe through the fire on a slope, and then connect to tank.
I have the same stove. Have you gotten the box and damper collar cherry red as i have once? If so, did it concern you about the stoves ability to handle the high heat.
very good video and very informative.
There is so many things wrong with this set-up. In an emergency, I completely understand: you do what you need to do for short term survival. However, if this contraption should NEVER be used in a daily situation. The Laws of Physics apply to everyone. One does not need a fancy degree from the University of Michigan to understand these laws. The Building Inspector would condemn this on the spot. If there was a fire, the insurance company would not pay.
I agree..... This guy is an armature
yes that horizontal pipe is a concern
Never realized the explosion a water heater with faulty safety valve can cause until home near here blew up. I mean it blew the place to smithereens, killed the occupant. Be safe brother.
Wow there is a lot of " expert" advice being trolled I mean shared if works that's great thanks for sharing
There is a formula for flue size for the size of the fireplace opening. HxWxD ??? Getting old I just can't remember it. If someone out there has it would help anyone building there own stove so it'll draw right and not smoke when you open it, trouble with smoke rolling out the door. Crack it and wait till it starts to draw. If still smokes cut diff. size pieces of cardboard place it across the top of the opening until it stops. Replace with metal one and hinge on inside so it swinges in.
Later
I can't find that water heater ANYWHERE!!! Is there a name on it somewhere??? I wonder if it was homemade...
How often do you have to clean the stack out ?
Don't do it long pipe is not safe!!!
Soot buildup inside the cold water jacket and the long extension could be very dangerous
+John Canivan there is a internal pipe on the inside of the coil and another cylinder around outside of the coil for insulation and so the coil is not exposed to direct flame
A good hot fire once a month in the winter and regular cleaning will ensure that soot didn't build to dangerous levels
By cooling the exhaust below a safe temp. causes the soot that John is speaking about. This setup with so much heat removed from the exhaust is actually a fire hazard if not cleaned out REGULARLY!!
@@eielson1978
What is the do not drop below temp you refer to?
@Shufei
You sre so full of exaust build up
Freaking study the subject .
Hi,
I've got a question. Do you think there is a health benefit to eating with sterling flatware rather than stainless steel? Would there be any beneficial silver transfer to the body? Oops this belongs on your colloidal silver video- very good by the way.
Thanks
John
I have the same stove, with a two foot rise to the elbow, then out the wall installed in my garage....smokes like all hell...any suggestions?
@warbirdsp51 i have a wood burnning stove in my house and one time i therw a cople of cholet donets (the small ones) it got the flew pipe red hot and it scared the crap out of me and o couldnt put it out by shutting the door it just got biger i hade to use a fire extinguisher to put it out but i dont tink it was good for it =\
Where can you get one of these?
@jklstewart That's a good topic for another video some day. I do have a camping shower purchased in a camping store which consists of a large black plastic bag that you hang in the sun. After a few hours the water is hot and you can take a shower under it (it includes a shower head attached to the bag-a very simple device but ingenious as well.)
This was manufactured. There is a coil of copper pipe inside.
@willibill1 i have a ?? i have made a prity good size boiler now will i get more power out of the wood for my boiler if i use a blower or is it better to let it say rocket out the stack (if u want to see the boiler i beleve its a video responce or its on my channel =3-
Should have mounted the horizontal pipe much higher to avoid composite heas banging and burning hazzard
@Mrphatbastard1 The smoke isn't cooled nearly enough to affect the draw. I take this apart about once a year and run a brush through it to make sure creosote isn't building up to a dangerous level.
Do you have any trouble with creosle by having that long a pipe?
this looks good. id rather use an open barrel of water myself to get some humidity into the room and allow for the heat to just dissipate. imagine if you had a 200 degree 55 gallon drum of water. youd have heat for hours after your stove's fire went out.
Look it up in any stove manual, I have.
How does the heater look dangerous? I've been using that stove for years.
That's awesome,I'll check your vids.Thanks!
Altho years ago the long pipe was common, they are illegal now because of rapid creosote build up.
Brilliant my friend!
Never got the follow up videos
I look at the drawing and I think there is a problem .. entered the cold water sinks to the bottom and should not be up for that water becomes warm. and its more effective, the water tank pipe should be on the cold water line to the water warms up before going into tank, otherwise I think it is not effective, the water is already hot before back in the water tank pipe. ???
It is installed upside-down!!
Instead of all that, just put a mini still on top of the woodstove. You'll be reclaiming some more heat, and producing a useful end product that can be used for engine fuel, electrical power generation, or drink :-) .
I have that same cast iron stove in my garage. It was ok for a couple years but sux plus it leaks air through the cracks
Justin Lara you need some stove puddy.
Marty Collins i filled in all the cracks with some very high temp sealant and it eventually got dried out and broke off so I'm trying to make a heat exchanger now thx
Jeffrey Wain thats cool It just took to long to get going and didn't last verry long lol im working on a new legitimate propane conversation furnace
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Upside-down... Fluted end goes down. Designed to keep liquid-tars inside stove pipe.
Dont you already have a water heater?
I'd throw in a couple of sheet metal screws to secure your stove pipe/hot water heater to the stove; if someone were to just bump it, it would probably come off. Otherwise, a great idea.
Nice woodburning heat right
I like your ideas, except for that spring wrapped around at first was kind of hokey. I have trouble with my stove pipe rusting out like every year. It's discouraging. Wish there was a source for good stovepipe that wasn't a ripoff like stainless or rust-i-ful. I guess rain and smoke do the dirtywork.
@gazaking765 Gravity feed from a barrel on an upper level.
Be careful with that thing. Make sure you clean your chimney fairly often. Due to the water being heated, it will cause your flue gasses to cool down thus creating more creosote buildup in your chimney. That isn't a good thing and can cause chimney fires. Just to let you know. Good luck!
Any updates on this?