Multiple Lock Ranch Gate - No Cut (DEMO) Slide Latch
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- Опубліковано 12 січ 2022
- Posted a previous video about this Gate Lock Mechanism and had a few comments wishing I had demonstrated it - well, Here ya go!
Previous video here: • Multiple Lock Ranch Ga...
Got tired of road hunters and utility workers cutting locks off my gates. Came up with this bolt-cutter guard for the standard sliding multiple lock community ranch gate.
Thought about turning it into a product but decided to just share it on here so anyone who needs, can copy it.
Enjoy! - Розваги
![ПОЛНАЯ ИСТОРИЯ ЭКЗОРЦИЗМА [Топ Сикрет]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qBySr6Bt0B8/mqdefault.jpg)
"All we want to do is make it a little bit less appealing so they move on to maybe somebody else's gate."
That is the heart of any security system in any application that I can think of. Somebody can always get in with enough effort and the right tools or applications, you just want to make it more trouble than it's worth.
💯
Thanks so much for your explanation and fantastic looking fabrication. I am so sick of people skipping locks on our chain gang! I’ll be building one of these very soon
Great job. Thanks for sharing!
You build stuff like I do..beefy and lots of sleepless nights to get things correctly engineered! Great job !
That is genius!
Just a note. What you’re referring to as the “tabs” you fabricated are actually considered the “hasp” and what you’re referring to as the “hasp” is actually the “shackle” of the padlock.
But it’s a great idea.
Beautiful layout work
Hey man great job! I work in south Texas on pipelines and have see ALL KINDS of setups but nothing like this!
Brilliant.
Think about adding 1/2 rebar or hard steel to the outsides of your separation plates. I have a similar setup where I work and people were using a cordless angle grinder with a cutoff wheel to get the locks off. The rebar makes them cut through more material. Hard steel can wear down their cutoff wheel a lot faster, maybe before they get to the lock.
"Easlier" new word of the day.
Great engineering- thanks for sharing.
Clever design !
You are a genius. Thanks
Nice heavy duty gate. And awesome locking design, you should patent it.
Pretty slick
I like it bro 👍🏼 thanx for sharing
Stoked you found something interesting! Thanks for the visit!
Very nice and well engineered gate!! The landscape looks like Pennsylvania. Am I close...I was going to say Texas but it looks more like Pa to me.
Great stuff thanks man!
Glad to help!
Excellent thanks for the great explanation. I appreciate it.
Glad it was useful!
@@cowboyV2 what diameter is the steel slide bar?
1-1/4” on the single gate and 1-1/2” on the double gate. I used cold rolled solid round bar. What would I do differently? Add clearance to the hole/tube it slides through. As it stands, they operate smoothly but have to keep them greased. If they rust, they stick. Next one should have 1/16” or so clearance.
@@cowboyV2 after watching your video several times ive decided i want to use your design for a gate that we share with several agencies needing access for right of way reasons. We also have a problem with transients who like to break kur daisy chain of locks and take the whole chain.
I see one flaw in your design where your multiple lock gate system can be bypassed with a hand file on the weld closest to the handle.
I realize that someone with determination can bypass any gate with the vulnerabilities inherent with gates and needing multiple access.
Other than the single weld closest to the handle I feel like your design is very good. It sure beats paying 750$ for an everlock system.
Any ideas about how to fix that vulnerability? At 7:01 in your video is the vulnerability i saw.
I think that a guard protecting the weld around the bar closest to the handle would do the trick.
I would weld a thick plate maybe a foot tall to the gate covering the gap where the pin goes into the post. A sawzall with a metal cutting blade could fit in that spot. Only drawback would be the gate would open to the outside unless that's not an issue. Also there isn't much metal at the bottom of the lock tab holes. Maybe consider keeping more/enough metal in this spot so the lock can still function and would be more difficult with a sawzall. Other than that you make some fine gates.
Ooooh! That’s a good call on the slide bar cut-guard! Same with leaving more meat on the hasp plates. I hadn’t thought about the fact that they don’t need to be so small. I have a few more of these gates I still need to build. Will be adding your iterations to the latest ones. Love sharing this stuff on UA-cam for exactly this reason! To connect with other like-minded folks spread out geographically.
@@cowboyV2 Hello from Louisiana
Hello from California!
This is awesome. I wonder if you could somehow make it modular and still tamper resistant so you could pull off tie bars to reduce the number of required locks if needed.
Yes, If you have clearance to push the bar further into the gate post or through it then move the rear bar support far enough back that you can pull the bar out of the gate upright member to get the tie bars off, it wold work.
@@cowboyV2I'd 100% over-enginerd this and make C-channels that allow the locking tabs to be removed, if desired. That way, the tolerances and spacing would remain the same, only there'd be no tabs in that section for the shackle.
Very cool design, I was wondering how those worked when I saw the everlock the other day.
On the multi design, when you first install it do you have to put a lock at each segment to keep it locked? If that’s the case aren’t you kind of back to a single and sharing a key or combo?
Is it necessary to protect the slide bolt between the gate and post?
Yes, any lock removed “un-links” the chain of connected segments so you have to fill it with locks initially even if you don’t need that many. If someone wants to use their own, just swap out one of the extras.
Yes, the slide bolt is a vulnerability but you could easily weld some 3/4” plate on one side (on the gate frame as a guard) to make it more time consuming to cut. Could also use hardened steel machine shafting which is a little more expensive than the cold-rolled round bar used here. Hardened shafting would require a grinding cutting disk to cut through instead of a sawzall. Either way, very time consuming to cut through. Alternative is to make it even slower to cut through. Use 2 or 2.5” shaft, they’d be there for a half an hour unless they bring a cutting torch.
The goal is to make it inconvenient though. If the intent is impenetrable fortress gate, I’d go with a retracting drawbridge lol.
Yup I hear you on that!
What kind of welder are you using?
Miller Trailblazer gas powered unit on a trailer with a suitcase wire feeder. Running .035 wire with C25 shielding gas. The engine powered welder is kind of a pain to drag around compared to inverter welder but can be used anywhere.
If you weld a couple of gussets from the rod to your plate there is no way anyone could ever bend it. Would be much stronger than going to 3/8in material. Would only work on your single lock gate.
Got another, more complex and larger double gate coming. Will plan this in!
on the dual gate how do you prevent them from just pushing the gate and it not opening it? looks rather large of a hole for the bar to go through
Great question! One of the things I learned on the first gate is to allow more clearance on the receiving end for misalignment. The hinge posts are well braced and there is a buried beam that is welded between the two hinge posts. The goal is to reduce future sag as much as possible. Even so, some sag or settling will likely happen. The slide bar is 1.5” diameter. The receiver on the opposite gate leaf is 1.75x3.75 ID. There is plenty of play available in the vertical direction to accommodate sag. This won’t affect the pushing direction. In the swinging direction, there is 1/4” of play. The slide goes all the way through (6”). So 1/4” over 6” = 2.4 degrees at max gate leaf intersection angle before binding.
TLDR: you can’t push the gates more than a couple of inches before it binds up when locked. Push it with a truck and the bar bends some but not enough to come out of the socket and the truck is not looking too good anymore.
Just need enough time to hear them, few minutes to get ready for these…. Visitors. I’m getting faster.
Thanks, Caleb for watching and the question!
How can I get a copy of your design to give my welder to copy? Happy to pay a reasonable cost for your time.
Have him take a look at the video. I’m sure he can replicate it!
Would you please show some close ups???
Are you going to paint that gate to keep it from rusting away?
It’s pretty dry up here, low seasonal rain, low humidity. It will get a good coat of brown then stop. Don’t really get deep flaking rust. If I paint it, I’d have to every 5 years. Rusty metal is great! Won’t burn, no maintenance!
@@cowboyV2 I live in Southern California and just built a steel framed gate and haven't painted it yet. I'm wondering if I can get away with not painting too. We also have minimal rain and humidity. What part of the country are you In?
Similar climate up north of you. A lot of architectural stuff is left to rust on purpose. You’ll see a lot of that on a drive through wine country. Southern CA is plenty dry. You’ll be fine and it will look great once it evens out!
@@cowboyV2 Sounds good. Thanks!
push that gat and it will open
Why are the locks making such ridiculous noises? Did you literally edit in weird echoing sounds?
Metal-on-metal banging around with hollow tube steel framing. The locks aren't making that noise, the reverberation in the gate from metal-on-metal clanking is.
If you build this type of gate and locking system, you could dampen the sound by drilling holes in the downward-facing surfaces every 12"-16" and spraying in expanding foam.
Brilliant!