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Reloading Tip - Should You Sort Your Reloading Brass or Buy Lapua?
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- Опубліковано 21 тра 2022
- In this video I compare 5 different brands of brass to see what is the most consistent as well as see if there is anything to be gained by sorting the cases by weight. See the best way to size 223 Brass: • Reloading 223 Rem - Ho...
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Videos on this channel are for informative, and entertainment purposes only. Using any of the information is at the risk of the individual using the information. We (including UA-cam) will not be held liable for any injury to yourself or damage to your firearms resulting from attempting anything shown in any our videos. By viewing or flagging this video you are acknowledging the above.
See the best way to size 223 cases here: ua-cam.com/video/GruPreiDWSE/v-deo.html
Like the guy said, "if Lapua doesn't make brass for that cartridge, don't chamber it" ....yes, expensive, yes hard to find at times, but the best brass there is, PERIOD.....I do not use anything else......thanks for the confirming stats man .....OnWard.....
I am consistently amazed by the time, effort, and resources you put into these data videos. I started to add up the cost of your testing equipment and decided I was better off not knowing
Thanks Joe, I appreciate that. I really just want to put out data for folks to have answers to questions that they want to know and may not be able to afford or have the time to test for themselves. I put every penny I make on ad revenue / Patreon back into the channel for equipment or components. I hope the folks that support me get the value they are looking for out of the content.
BAR
Absolutely.
This bastard is one of the best on the internet for the testing he does.
Definitely one of my favourites
One of the factors that determines the consistency of brass, weight wise, is how consistent is the extractor groove cut. Some brands vary several thousands of a inch just in the extractor groove depth. If you take 2 cases that the same volume, but slightly different in weight, you will likely find the weight difference in the extractor groove. Therefore, if the brass being inspected has variable extractor grooves, then there is no use in sorting by weight.
Last night I was just watching Office Space, and today I click on this video where you are wearing a tshirt from Initech. Coincidence!? I don't even know anymore.
Sir, you have one of the best reloading channels on UA-cam. The amount of statistics that you put into your videos is extremely valuable. Fantastic information! Keep up the great work!!!!
Spending the time and money to answer questions I don't have the time or money to answer. You are my hero.
I hope you found it interesting.
Wow! Your dedication to the hobby is incredible. I long ago decided not to be as extreme as your BR guys. I have always thought it was a waste to sort by weight. I do of course sort by head stamp and I do keep my lots separated. That is as picky as I allow myself to get! If you allowed yourself you could get sucked rather deep down the rabbit hole that is BR obsessive compulsiveness.
Thank you. I think some don't realize how good or bad some of the options out there might be and think they are making thigs better by weight sorting. I had tried it early on and couldn't find any improvement I could measure. I can't make myself volume sort cases with water any longer, it just takes too much time. The Bison gauge helps make it more realistic but it still is a lot of work. In the end I just want people to have a idea if their time is well spent on something like this if they choose to do it. Hopefully this helps some folks so they don't have to go through the effort if they prefer not to.
Excellent video.
Absolutely nothing wrong with your correlations.
Great vid, excellent information that I don't think anyone else has looked at & measured.
Thank you again for the considerable time, effort & expense you outlay in the pursuit of truth.
As someone who has been using exclusively Federal brass in my 223 for years now, this explains a LOT. Time to ditch that garbage and start using Lapua or LC.
Picking up brass and noticing its Lake City: "Ooo a piece of candy....ooo a piece of candy........ooo a piece of candy"
Just like to thank you for saving me some time and effort doing this to my new lapua brass. Off to measure OAL of bullets now 😁
I love it when BAR confirms my opinion with data! Big Lapua and Lake City fan.
Glad you enjoyed it.
Thank you for sharing your research
Great video mate very interesting 👍🇦🇺
Not related to this video directly but an idea you might like. Since you have a pressure trace, would you consider doing a series on common pressure signs and what those actually correlate to in psi?? For example do primers always flatten at 35,000 psi, or does it depend on the cartridge, or individual gun, or primers you're using, do they always pop at a certain psi, ect... you do a lot of good for the community and we really appreciate it a lot. I just figured this would be another fun way you could help everyone out 😊 with
While I'd be quite interested in the results, I wonder if maybe the data produced by this exercise would be pointless. For example, I suspect the amount of pressure required to "pop" a primer out of a case is hugely dependent upon the nature of the gun or container housing the shell during the test.
@@warpedweirdo possibly, I could definitely see arguments for "all SRP flatten at X psi" or "all .308 win. pops at Y psi" I could also see arguments for " it depends on A, B, & C". Our current wisdom is that every gun and cartridge "knows it's own max psi" and will show us signs as we approach it. I use this method too, but kinda have a hard time fully getting behind it, kinda like weight sorting brass. For a long time we thought brass weight = a brass volume analog and that the consistency correlates, most of us know now that this is rarely true. Only experimentation will tell us if we're right or wrong 🤷♂️
@@joearledge1 True, true.
My approach is to note each gun's behavior with "safe" loads. I then compare that behavior with what I experience when doing workups for new loads. It's all guess work, as I don't have a device to measure chamber pressure. So... If a rifle doesn't flatten primers for "safe" rounds, and the primers in my new workup rounds are flattening, I don't go any further in charge. For firearms that always flatten primers, I pay attention to just how flattened, and check for cratering. I pay close attention to the force required to lift a bolt. I pay attention to how hard and far brass is ejected. I pay attention to post-fire deformities in casings. I try to play it safe but, in the end, I'm playing a blind guessing game based almost entirely on assumptions.
Hi Joe, My biggest concern with this is encouraging people to load over max just isn't a good idea. For 95% of folks people would take it for what it was, but the other 5% is what you have to worry about. Pressure signs are so dependent on what they are tested in and the components that you use there is a lot of room for error. If there was a interesting way of testing this and not flirting with super hot loads I would be happy to put something out on it.
HA! awesome shirt. One of my fav movies!
I buy once fired LC and separate by year.
For testing I might get a little more involved
I'm all ways looking forward to the next B.A.R. video, I learn a lot from your work. Thanks!
Perhaps you could do some testing on a common loading "Myth?" that when reloading if you partially seat the bullet, lower the ram and rotate the cartridge 180 degrees and then seat the bullet the rest of the way you will have better accuracy. Or did you test this all ready?
Well done on the correlation coefficient. I was laughing. I am a professor at a major university with a PhD in Operations Research/Statistics. You did just fine!!! :)
Thanks Britt, Glad I at least passed the test with a "C". I try to keep things simple as I can so trying to get people to understand the relationship between the 2 is my real goal.
Thanks for another great video.
Thanks for watching!
Lapua brass is the best I've ever used. By a wide margin.
Weight sorting really only makes sense between batches of brass from a single manufactuurer. I have winchester brass in different batches that is 14-15gr different between them, and the pressure is very different. To get the same velocity it is a 2.5gr difference in charge wt.
For .308 I've had great results with LC and IMI Match brass. Single digit SD and low double for ES for both brands and that's out of a M1A. For my 6mm ARC I haven't dabbled with handloading much because I've been running factory ammo so it will be interesting how hornady brass performs. Mind you, I shoot PRS so anything around 20 ES and under and 1/2" at 100 yards is totally acceptable. Sure, lower is better and yes, we try to achieve the lowest numbers we can, just different parameters of what's acceptable for different disciplines is all. Great vid/info.
P.S. I hope at some point lapua makes 6mm ARC brass. Switching to a bolt gun this winter. Be nice to have excellent brass to go along with a open division bolt gun.
The intensity if your hobby to know information is insane 😳
Thanks!
Very interesting bringing in correlation to the equation. I wonder if there is a correlation between case weight and group size? You saved me so much time and money and I thank you for that, but I've being spending hours trying to figure out what I should be looking out for. Batched Case weight ES or SD to improve my groups? I appreciate the time you took to do this magnificent study!
As I've commented before, your work, focus on detail and breadth of coverage is world class - kudos! I've been considering starting reloading for over 3 years and watching your videos. Today, lack of available supplies has driven prices so high that by my calculation, the cost of a single round of premier quality 6.5 Creedmoor is $1.81 for supplies ALONE. With the cost of high quality equipment, it's about $3.45 per round for 2,000 rounds (the life of a barrel). I guess the payoff then is in improved accuracy. Its an interesting time and I may just purchase high quality ammo instead of reloading.
Wait a bit. It's unfortunate that some people are going to be hit so hard by what's coming they're going to have to start selling off equipment. However, their loss is your gain. They're looking for someone to buy because they need the money. You're looking for someone to sell at a reasonable price because you want the equipment. Win-win.
Ebay has some good deals, the skills you you learn will increase your opportunities in lean times.
There's no reason to go crazy $$$ a good bullet with consistent neck tension is all you need to improve on Factory ammunition but you do have a valid point and something that's been repeated to me specially by those from the military is just buy a couple cases and forget about it, that way you're guaranteed a certain consistency
I've wasted a lot of time! Thanks for the time savings technique. The next few years maybe I can make it back! :)
If you could go ahead and put that data into a TPS report Peter, that would be great. And I’ll make sure you get a copy of that memo. Love the shirt. Bill Lumburg
I sort all my brass by headstamp. Then resize and length trim. Then true primer pockets, chamfer neck, flash hole inside and out. Then weight. I separeate cases in 1 Grain increments. One bag per grain increment. If your brass is resized and trimmed then the weight is a true reflection of case volume.
For all practical purposes the answer is, Depends and Yes. I will talk about 308. I was a National Match High Power shooter for 30 years and have loaded 10's of thousands of rounds. I sorted by brand, commercial Federal and was always the heaviest by a lot and Winchester commercial was always the lightest by a lot, both were always culled out. Everything else including military brass fell in a 5 grain range or so between them, volume was also very close. Those were for hunting and NM rounds where anything around 1 moa was acceptable, I sold off the Winchester and Federal Brass. I have 35 gallon barrels full of 308 brass and with the shortage and price of 6.5 Creedmoor brass if you can find it I have been converting it out of the 308. I sort by brand then by weight and try to keep all cases within 1.5-2.0 grains of what I want to shoot out of my Savage 12FV. Routinely I post .5" 5 shot groups with my converted brass so it works very well and is consistent. I have found that everything stated by brand will vary between calibers and sorting and measuring by volume does make a difference but only if you're going for that very last thousandth of an inch of accuracy, for that consistency is the key.
Dang! Thats some technical stuff there.do you have a special die for converting the brass or do you just use the resizer/ deprimer die?
Hi Ken, Thanks for the feedback. I completely agree. For a lot of folks it just doesn't matter and that's fine. For some it keeps them up at night so buy the best you can, worry about something else. I think there are a lot of folks in the middle that worry about it and shouldn't and others that are trying to run velocity ladders and can't understand their results cause there is so much "noise" in their data. I couldn't tell you how many folks are doing this with mixed handstamps that are just frustrated and ready to quit. Hopefully you find the info interesting anyway.
BAR
@@vdog4799 Just a resizing die BUT I lube the cases with Dillon lube (lanolin and alcohol) and inside the necks with Imperial Size Wax. Hint: use Winchester or Hornady brass, maybe R-P, don't use Federal or any military brass. It's very thick and it will resize but you will need to turn the necks and go slow. Give the brass a few seconds to flow. I've done over a thousand rounds in the last 2 years with the shortage and only lost 5 or 6 rounds to splitting/crushing, it's saved my bacon.
@@BoltActionReloading That's why I watch, always learn something new like the info on extractor groove's. Never heard or thought of that. Went right downstairs and started measuring. WOW, what a difference even in the same brand of brass, from now on I'm doing volume measuring, thanks for that one.
@@hardball107 yes. I have done 25-35 out of 30-30 brass with just my sizing die and later saw a die made just for that. I forgot who makes it. Thank you for the tip on watching neck thickness👍
That’s what I do sort by type of brass. I have seen changes with different types of brass.
I do like premium brass in certain cartridges but I've never bought brass for 223/556 because I have probably a half dozen 5 gallon buckets of LC and after this I don't know if I ever will... Great video as always keepem coming brother!!!
Glad you liked it. I wonder how consistent LC is from year to year. So far what I have measured has been pretty darn consistent.
@@BoltActionReloading I've never really checked these things very many times I just keep all my head stamps from the same year or manufacturer. I tried sorting brass a couple years ago but I never seen much if any difference and now I only check case capacity with water when switching manufacturer... I know this must've taken a long time to put all this data together it's definitely interesting for sure. Take care brother!!
There was an article on accurate shooter a while ago and I think it basically said if your shooting 223/556, use lake city and forget about it, especially since you can usually get it right off the ground.
Always follow your videos and notice you use Lapua brass. Question: Do you uniform the flash holes on Lapua brass?
I appreciate the video so thanks. I do miss the videos where you'd shoot groups. Any plans to bring those back? Either way good channel.
Hi David, Certainly a fair criticism. The short answer is yes. I guess I go in waves in different directions and need to put a better content plan together. I have been working on a couple huge videos that I believe I will share the group data with. For something like this, I thought it was important to isolate the source of the error and not distract with groups. Some folks run velocity ladders and get disappointed by the data being all over the place because they are using brass that has a lot of variance. Is it the brass, bad primer / powder combo? You can't know when the data gets lost in the noise. I get plenty of range brass works for me comments so I wanted to have some data to back up why this may or may not be the case. Thanks for sticking with me! If you ever think of an idea that screams someone should make a video on it, let me know.
Ha! Love the Initech shirt! #TPS #Report
Amazing shirt lol
I was actually a bit shocked today about my new Lapua brass.
I measured the shoulders with a RCBS precision MIC and the shoulders varied from -1 thou to -2 thou.
Yes, it is not much, but i.e. Geco Target 55gr FMJ where much more equal.
I've had good luck both ways, The commercial match brass just doesn't require much labor.
Would the problem be solved (for the most part) if I just buy Lapua brass and use it only?
In 223 range brass, the only ones I separate are LC. FC brass isn't great at all. I throw away a lot of them for primer pockets too large. Too soft maybe?
So with correlation that low, sorting by weight doesn't really make sense, so does that mean sorting is best done with measuring each case's volume?
Would you consider a short follow up to this with Starline (the not premium premium brass most people run) added to the data and possibly on target data? The debate rages on around Lapua vs Starline and I wonder (and I'm sure many others) what the results on paper AND downrange would look like.
Thanks for taking the time to share this info with us!
Hi Javin, I couldn't find any when I was looking before, I see you can back order some 556 brass right now but I really don't need 250 pcs. Problem is when you do a specific video like this some folks think you are trashing a company if the data doesn't come out the way people think that it should. I have an old video comparing some of their brass in 6.5CM but it doesn't include the volume data.
@@BoltActionReloading data is data, it doesn't lie but I understand why you would have left it out. I'm sure some would send you some to add. 😎 I buy Lapua (for 223, Peterson for others) when I want the very best possible with the least work but Starline has been doing great work (in many calibers) filling the gap between say, a LC range pickup and Lapua. Thanks for all that you do. 😎👍🏾
Glad you understand. I agree that data is data, but when it comes out a way that somebody doesn't care for, you would think that I slapped their grandmother. Most are fine, but often the fight isn't worth the headache. I was going to pick some up from PV a couple months ago and forgot to add it to one of my powder orders, but forgot and then it was gone. I think that every company has its place but too many folks have to fan boy for one company or another. I get labeled as a Lee and RCBS hater just cause I haven't done many videos on their products. I am just trying to cover things that relevant that people would want to know. I have way more ideas than time, so doing the best ones is a struggle sometimes too. I am grateful for the folks that watch my videos and appreciate the content. If you guys keep watching I'll probably keep making them.
Holy crap your a big nerd!Thanks for the help!!!!!
Hi Richard, I hope you found the data useful. I always prefer to let the data talk.
It's case volume under chamber pressure, not on the bench. Which is why weighing is better than volume measurement.
I’ve take cases and both weighed them then checked their capacity and the weight meant nothing in relation to the volumn. At least in 7.5x55 ppu/grafs and 556 LC
Lapua if you a)use a bolt action, b) reuse your brass, c) need the smallest groups you can get, d) don't like doing lots of brass prep!
After the 1 grain matched brass has been fired, then they are neck sized only.
Dang it! I shouldn't have watched this video! I see a rabbit hole developing right in front of me! LOLOL
Range brass gets you far.
I still have my lapuas unused, I can just ditch the range brass (semi auto) but that does increase case prepping by a lot. I wish I had a case prepping center.
It really depends on what you are trying to do with it. So far most all of the data I have looked at on the Lake City Brass is pretty impressive considering how so much of it gets left behind.
@@BoltActionReloading Yeh same, too bad to leave good brass behind. I have few thousands of Sako brass from the range, it is quite good all in all. I do not think it is even a close match to Lapua though.
Now we need to section brass to see where this weight is if the case capacity is the same.... My federal stuff has always been close in weight and then I sort those because I can pick up a lot of it... I worry more about the different years of lake city brass.
I think I am going to leave sectioning the brass to someone else. I certainly would sort by year if it made you feel better but this group mostly had 13 and 14 year stamps.
Lapua brass needs no prep according to Bryan Litz he got the lowest velocity spread by using the brass straight out of the box. Every other standard prepping step the spread got worse he documented in his applied ballistics book. I think it’s a no brainer using Lapua in a bolt action but with a semi-auto that beats up the brass or you lose some that’s a tough call my AR gets to beat up hornady and lake city. I’ve lost count on the firings I’ve gotten out of my .308 Lapua brass in my model 70. Just using Lapua brass vs win, federal, hornady, Norma cuts about a 1/4 moa out the groups. I keep the other brands for ringing steel.
I wish I could afford Lapua cases 😪 😁
Good afternoon Sir, happy labor day weekend. I have a question if I may. When shooting 10 round groups, how long should I wait in between shots? Cold bore or warm barrel? Thank you Sir for your great videos. I've learned so much.
When I shoot 6.5 Creedmoor with a fluted steel barrel, the barrel gets hot after about 10 shots (separated by the time it takes to reload and aim -- about 45 - 60 seconds). When I touch the barrel and it's too hot to keep my hand there, I take a 20 minute break (shoot another rifle) and let it cool down. That's usually about 12-13 shots. Open the bolt, stand it up in a breeze in the shade and it will cool faster.
BTW, every different ammunition is different -- 223 Remington heats up slower than 6.5 Creedmoor, etc.
I apologize, I didn't mention caliber. 7mmrem mag. Christensen arms, 26 in cfw.barrel. 1in9 twist. 168 grn berger vld, H1000 powder, cci 250 pmr. This is a for hunting elk and for kicks and giggles possibly 1000 yard target practice.
One more question if I may, do you preform these tests on a day with high humidity, such as past 50%. Does high humidity affect velocity?
@@andrewthatcher1737 I have a CA Ridgeline with CFW barrel too. It heats up a little slower than thin taper steel hunting barrel. Still, with 7mm I would guess 10 shots is about all it can take without a 'cool-down-rest'...
I have run this same study with LC 7.62x51 and Hornady 6.5 PRC. Correlations were in the -0.5 range. A correlation coefficient should be more like -0.75 to -1.00 to be meaningful in the application. As a result, I don't believe weight sorting has any real value. When I volume sorted the Hornady brass, about half the cases fell outside +/-0.2 grains. The LC 7.62 brass was just as bad. When I did the math for 6.5 PRC brass, assuming all Lapua 6.5 brass would fall in +/-0.2, it would still be slightly more expensive than Hornady but close enough to make it worthwhile to eliminate volume testing every piece of brass.
If volume sorting is being done with water (or whatever liquid) I don't know how anyone can stand to sort a reasonable amount of cases. I don't think I could make myself do it anymore. The Lapua brass clearly shines when it comes to consistency. One of my old coworkers always used to say you can test in quality. Weight sorting cases falls into that realm for me. If you can afford the Lapua cases is really hard to pick anything else. (IMO) Thanks for commenting!
Was the Lake City sorted by year?
No, however it was comprised mainly of 13 and 14 date code.
How about only sorting by head stamps and compare to Lapua in actual shots downrange.
I only sort by the amount of air they hold.
You forgot winchester brass which, in my opinion, is as big of an offender as federal on inconsistencies. Those two will do fine with general plinking and recycling as long as you stay away from max. Lake city and others that are more consistent may benefit from the obverse of your experiment, in sorting by case weight then grain cap, or skipping g the latter altogether. Extreme consistency will take years, and then the brass gives up. Get a lot(same make and year) and stick with it.
Hi Darren. In my limited supply of range brass I didn't really have enough Winchester brass to include them. I had some Winchester ammo that I had tested but it was loaded in LC 223 brass. I really did not intend this to be a name smearing contest, just an idea of what you may or may not get when you are using range brass. YMMV.
"We've had a bunch of layoffs and need to play catch up. Yeaaahh, I'm going to need you to come into work Saturday. Yeaaah, that'd be greeeaaat. Yeaaah."
"What would you say you do here?"
@@BoltActionReloading - That was in response to your Initech T-Shirt.
What do I do? Time is my biggest factor, compelling but not worth it. I would revisit the subject in a year and re-evaluate.
Great stuff, thank you!
Hi Richard. I know. My response was a line from the movie as well. Glad you enjoy the content, hopefully give you a head start if you decide to go down the rabbit hole of reloading!
I already did this year's ago with my scales and cases filled with ball powder. End result in .223 Winchester brass, .3grs case weight equals .1grs of powder weight. That case volume gadget looks like a lot of wasted money to me.
There is a statistical outlier present
I will sort by head stamp. I’m not competing. But who doesn’t like a accurate rifle.
I’ve chosen Peterson over lapua. Better quality in my opinion
Last I checked Lapua doesn't make brass in my chambering.
Seems like the sample sizes should have been the same, ie. 25 cases of each manufacturer. That LC may have fallin apart if the other 15 cases were added to the mix to match the sample size of the Lapua. The only two samples that are really comparable here are the PMC and Lapua due to them being the same sample size. Thanks for the data either way. I knew LC was good, but had no idea it has the potential of being THAT good.
Ideally they would all be the same sample size, but there is enough samples to compare the SDs to get an idea. The Extreme spreads aren't going to get any smaller as you increase sample size and this is enough to not give much of a look to the A USA and Federal. This isn't the only set of Lake city brass I have ever tested and its consistency has impressed me. If you budget for brass is free, and you can find it, its hard to argue with.
Fair enough. What I expect is the SD to get larger with the extra 15 cases. Hence, why I said the LC numbers may actually fall apart with the proper sample size to match the Lapua. How could anyone expect an SD to get smaller with a larger sample size? Even if your budget is a small one, you can buy once fired LC pretty cheaply. ETA: For what it's worth, I think Lapua is King. I didn't really even look at the other manufacturers numbers very well. I use LC for all my bulk stuff and thats it. Just had no idea it may be better than we thought. It's really interesting to see a guy taking the time to compare LC to a much higher quality component and finding out the LC really isn't so bad afterall.
Buy Lapua
Buy Lapua brass, I have the money and they have the quality I want
I thought the answer was buy Lapua and sort it
Sort it anyway .
Simple answer.NO.
Please don’t go all scientific, if you don’t recognize it and can’t explain it.
Hi John, I guess I am never going to promise that I explain everything as clear and concise as I would like, however I can only assume by your previous comment that you are not happy with me calling it an anomaly vs your preferred statistical outlier? If this is the case it is because this is not a true measurement. This value is a defect due to a incomplete seal either in the gasket that seals the mouth of the case of the volume gauge itself (which I cleaned and retested) or the primer in the primer pocket. If this were tested with a liquid and not with air, this value would not have fallen out of the group. The data in the charts shows the calculations with and without the "statistical outliers" for those that wish to argue such points. I try to allow the audience to think for themselves and present the data as open as I can. (it would be far easier to delete it and pretend it never existed, but its not the way I do things.) If your having a bad day and insulting someone make you feel better that is fine, but if you wanted someone to act positively from your criticism it would be nice to know your objection in context to the video. Believe it or not I try to improve my content based on feedback.
BAR
@@BoltActionReloading , the problem is that you skew the data when you leave the outlier in. If you’re looking for the best probable answer for that set of brass, leaving it, without a resolution or understanding, means that your usage for that set will be incorrect. In other words, you’re throwing away all of the effort.
John, I agree that leave the data in would skew the data. This is why I have the data with and without the 2 outliers. I have it listed for whatever way you would like to look at it. I do not understand why you feel this is a problem. The graphs with the Correl output have the outliers removed. The charts have the data listed with and without the "outlier" I don't see how I am throwing away the effort. Some folks want to complain if you remove a sample for a valid reason so I let them believe their own truth. Either way it doesn't affect the data so much that I am going to sort any of the cases by weight. (well maybe Remington if I had enough of them to matter)
@@BoltActionReloading , ok I see your logic now. Sorry I came across so harshly.
Hey John, no harm, no foul. I am certainly capable of making a mistake, I just want to understand where the error is, if there is one. I didn't major in statistics or UA-cam, so trying to understand and improve next time is all I am here for. Certainly not trying to pick on you. Some guys are just mad, and some have a valid point. I just want to improve where I can. Thanks for responding so I can understand your point!
My hearing is not the best, so this video is almost totally useless to me with the speaker talking rapidly and no closed caption available. Sorry - I have to dislike
You disliked a video for a problem you have? 🤦🏻. Just move on
The world doesn't revolve around you and your disability, Randy. Sorry - I have to dislike your comment.
Did you try SLOWING DOWN the video?
Life must be so hard for you. Remember to stay positive and focus on solving problems rather than bitching about them.
CC works fine on my device for the video. 🤔