This is one of the BEST Land Rover instructional videos I have ever watched! You seriously saved me hundreds, if not thousands of dollars. Please don't ever remove this video. Thank you for posting such an easy step by step tutorial. -Luke (1994 Range Rover LWB)
Used your hub replacement video as reference towards replacing the hub on my Puma 2.2. When in doubt you-tube it! Great reference and thank you for taking the time to make.
Excellent video and very well edited too. I'm a professional mechanic but have not worked much on Land Rovers and your video shows exactly what's required for the job. Very good, many thanks.
This is absolutely the best video about this topic. Being in the US (Wisconsin), my NAS Defender is the only one around. While I've read the manual several times and am sure that I could get through it okay, but having seen this video I'm sure I'll proceed with the confidence of having seen it done properly. Thank you. Please, please, please do more.
I agree Rich. The thing I love about UA-cam is that you can watch it happen then ponder "ok be honest.. can I do this too?".... It's the difference between buying a diff centre or reading the Haymes manual on how to set preload on a differential and buying a bearing kit. How do you choose? "UA-cam" is the answer.. but only if guys like " Tours and Tales.com" put good stuff like this up
..the senior Troopers and NCO’s showing me how to make a paper gasket with a card worksheet..hylamar etc etc...all simple stuff..but is the base of all mechanical genius... How life is (was for me then..) so simple... Loved it...
I've owned 6 classic Landies and I've loved 'em all, but I don't think I ever really understood their use of swivels versus U-joints. The swivels/seals on Landies are pretty much ALWAYS an issue, take a lot of time and money to sort out, and never last very long. More conventional U-joints just don't have as many problems, and when they do they don't give people nightmares. Both types have been around for quite some time, so someone at Land Rover made the choice to use swivels instead of U-joints. Just never heard the reasoning for it, if indeed there was any. Excellent video of just how laborious and tedious a job it is to replace the swivels/seals on a Land Rover. Can't help myself, though, I still love 'em.
A small point to add. It's worthwile draining the hub first. When you undo the two bolts to remove the brake tubing the swivel can move and seal opens letting oil / grease out onto the floor. If you are replacing the swivels you'll probably start by removing the oil, but this will catch you out if for example you are working on the brakes and need to remove the calipers. This has caused me to swear on a few occasions! Informative video with an easy style.
your videos are so great, I love the detail and the bolt by bolt tips are tricks!!! Rob is a LEGEND!!! Cheers from San Diego California!!!! 1991 EXMOD 110
I thought it would have better to press bearing rings in or even use a copper mallet and not a steel faced hammer. However a well presented video with a lovely lady having ago. Well done.
Hi guys- love this video, thanks for sharing! could you also share a list of all the parts, gaskets, oil seals, etc needed for the job? Your website mentions the tools needed but not the parts. Thanks to your video I am attempting this on my TD5 but I'm worried I'll miss ordering a crucial part and have to leave everything open until that part arrives.
Hi, thanks for the comment. We used the swivel kit from Britpart (I know), something like this: www.paddockspares.com/da3178-swivel-kit-front-axle-from-la930456-to-wa159806.html which includes a new swivel housing, since most are pitted and worn. It has everything you need in there - gaskets and shims, grease etc, except for the lower swivel pin. We reused the existing lower pin, which is normally not worn and fits into the new bearing race - but these are available seperately, and possibly a good thing to order just in case (they don't cost much). We also reused the stub axle seals and bearings, although I would recommend replacing while you're in there. A kit like this is available: www.paddockspares.com/da3191-stub-axle-kit-def-front-from-la.html A new lock washer for the hub might be handy (or reuse the old one), and think about some new bolts for the swivel to axle. Although, as I said, we reused most of the parts, and it was fine for years). Just be sure to get the correct parts (kit) for your model (obvs!). I have a surplus stock of stuff that was wrongly ordered, or not used...😅 If you're trying to cure death wobble, have a look at the panhard rod bushes first (ask me I know... perhaps you do as well, but it don't hurt to share experiences) Hope this helps a bit. If you haven't already, check out part 2 (refitting) for all the parts we used and the other tips like torque settings etc: ua-cam.com/video/9BExJlVBVPA/v-deo.html
@@ASimplyFabLife Thanks for the speedy reply! this is great, thanks for sharing. definitely gives me a lot more piece of mind now that I won't miss anything. Really helpful!
Thanks for the comment. It would indeed be the same ... because our 90 is currently running on Disco1 axles ;-) These axles replaced the Nissan Patrol axles that were used during the Croatia Trophy and Orawa (Poland) offroad competitions ... our old war-horse has seen many a battle!
Hi, thank you! Yes, Rob is very knowledgable on all things LR. Check out the playlist where you can find a number of opinion, discussion and repair videos: ua-cam.com/video/O8_J0oQofoI/v-deo.html
I was very intimidated by this job until I saw this video. Now I can't wait for the parts to arrive. On your last point about the teflon coated swivel balls, my 2001 TD5 has shiny swivels. Does that mean the teflon has worn off and they should be replaced?
@@radsy5821 Cheers thanks for the comment. Happy that it will help 👍. As far as I recall the shiny ones are stainless steel, so as long as they aren't pitted (little rusty dents and scratches from stones, gravel) they should be fine. The older ones were steel so when they got some pitting it would wear the seal faster - hence the teflon ones. Depends on use really, roadwork no real problem. You can also ask the defender Facebook pages, they're pretty good with advice. Good luck 👍💪😎
Brilliant video and thanks for sharing. You need to do a series landy next please Just one point folks, always remove rings etc off fingers before doing any work, seen to many injuries due to getting crushed or getting caught especially when getting out of landy, truck or tractor cabs etc and even more no no if you are working around electrical circuits.
good point Stapleford. Watched a guy get his finger ripped off one day because of a ring. Really though a Landy is straight-forward to work on. Mind you, once you move to turbo-diesel-Isuzu's a Stage 2 Landy seems like an Ox wagon. But then the Landy TD5 is a HEUI injected engine also and without an ECU.Both are a lot more than a pushrod engine eh. I guess the message is get with the plan (the 21st Century) or keep chipping rocks
Thanks for the reply :) Awesome video, this job is on my list of things to do as I too have corrosion on my ball joint, and i feel alot more at ease knowing I can refer back to this video at anytime!
...then latterly when I left the Army and became a bus driver...one guy wanted me to do a route I did not know and he said “..it’s easy..”..Then another driver said I did not know it then added...”it might be easy for you...but it’s only easy WHEN you know it..” This tutorial is just that....this lady will know..the next time..maybe with a few questions..on what to do...”it’s not rocket science..”...but it is when you DON’T know....
Z okazji dzisiejszego święta wszystkiego dobrego..... :-))) W Dzień Mężczyzny życzę : gwiazdki z nieba, kasy ile potrzeba,samych radości, z nami czułości,zawsze miłości, spełnienia marzeń,niezapomnianych wrażeń. Zdrowia, szczęścia pomyślności,dużo radości, masy słodyczy,wszystkiego dobrego, buziaka ciepłego,życzę właśnie tego wszystkiego ! Miłego świętowania przy lampce szampana. reduction-image.com/mpeg-creation2/temp/eqt4t2n5kus2nrvkpj6cgg0ig6/indexweb.htm
sorry.. I have to say this.. you have a sexy assistant. A slim woman with long, well kept hair.. who understands the intimacy of a drivetrain... and puts grease on her hands. You lucky lucky bastard
it's hard to work out which uses more gas.. a Jeep or a Rover. Either way they can send you broke. But in retrospect.. the Rover is WAY more capable off-road. The Jeep relies on you revving up and blasting through with spine bent into an "S" shape. The Rover plonks along at 1000rpm at 1mph with no wheel spin. My feeling with a Rover is "this thing is an on-road tractor", whereas with the Jeep it's "it's got shit all traction but a big engine so i'll try it faster and hope like hell I aim straight". Note: Rovers have a much higher re-sale than the Jeep. In fact the older a Rover gets the more valuable it becomes. People collect Rovers and dump Jeeps. What more can I say
haha Edwin, much like the Yanks approach military operations - all guns a blazing and flat out. Brits and Aussies much more considered and careful. In Australia Jeep parts are horrifically more expensive than LR De fender parts
This is one of the BEST Land Rover instructional videos I have ever watched! You seriously saved me hundreds, if not thousands of dollars. Please don't ever remove this video. Thank you for posting such an easy step by step tutorial.
-Luke (1994 Range Rover LWB)
Used your hub replacement video as reference towards replacing the hub on my Puma 2.2. When in doubt you-tube it! Great reference and thank you for taking the time to make.
Cheers - glad it helped!🤘😎
Excellent video and very well edited too. I'm a professional mechanic but have not worked much on Land Rovers and your video shows exactly what's required for the job. Very good, many thanks.
Thank you !
This is absolutely the best video about this topic. Being in the US (Wisconsin), my NAS Defender is the only one around. While I've read the manual several times and am sure that I could get through it okay, but having seen this video I'm sure I'll proceed with the confidence of having seen it done properly. Thank you. Please, please, please do more.
I agree Rich. The thing I love about UA-cam is that you can watch it happen then ponder "ok be honest.. can I do this too?".... It's the difference between buying a diff centre or reading the Haymes manual on how to set preload on a differential and buying a bearing kit. How do you choose? "UA-cam" is the answer.. but only if guys like " Tours and Tales.com" put good stuff like this up
..the senior Troopers and NCO’s showing me how to make a paper gasket with a card worksheet..hylamar etc etc...all simple stuff..but is the base of all mechanical genius...
How life is (was for me then..) so simple...
Loved it...
Great teacher i wish i did mechanics back in tech school , had to learn the hard way over the years thank god for you tube.
I've owned 6 classic Landies and I've loved 'em all, but I don't think I ever really understood their use of swivels versus U-joints. The swivels/seals on Landies are pretty much ALWAYS an issue, take a lot of time and money to sort out, and never last very long. More conventional U-joints just don't have as many problems, and when they do they don't give people nightmares. Both types have been around for quite some time, so someone at Land Rover made the choice to use swivels instead of U-joints. Just never heard the reasoning for it, if indeed there was any.
Excellent video of just how laborious and tedious a job it is to replace the swivels/seals on a Land Rover. Can't help myself, though, I still love 'em.
Thanks!
Perhaps a question for Rob Stewart (on FB)? If anyone knows he will!
A small point to add. It's worthwile draining the hub first. When you undo the two bolts to remove the brake tubing the swivel can move and seal opens letting oil / grease out onto the floor. If you are replacing the swivels you'll probably start by removing the oil, but this will catch you out if for example you are working on the brakes and need to remove the calipers. This has caused me to swear on a few occasions!
Informative video with an easy style.
your videos are so great, I love the detail and the bolt by bolt tips are tricks!!! Rob is a LEGEND!!! Cheers from San Diego California!!!! 1991 EXMOD 110
Thanks Andries, that's the idea behind all these "Muddys Bootcamp" videos.
Great informative video for landroverowners to keep repaircost at an affordable level.
I thought it would have better to press bearing rings in or even use a copper mallet and not a steel faced hammer. However a well presented video with a lovely lady having ago. Well done.
Victoria's tries are like mine. Very good way to teach. Thanks a lot!!!
excellent how to vid. Great instructor! Thank you.
Excellent explained. Thank you!
Hi guys- love this video, thanks for sharing! could you also share a list of all the parts, gaskets, oil seals, etc needed for the job? Your website mentions the tools needed but not the parts. Thanks to your video I am attempting this on my TD5 but I'm worried I'll miss ordering a crucial part and have to leave everything open until that part arrives.
Hi, thanks for the comment.
We used the swivel kit from Britpart (I know), something like this: www.paddockspares.com/da3178-swivel-kit-front-axle-from-la930456-to-wa159806.html which includes a new swivel housing, since most are pitted and worn. It has everything you need in there - gaskets and shims, grease etc, except for the lower swivel pin. We reused the existing lower pin, which is normally not worn and fits into the new bearing race - but these are available seperately, and possibly a good thing to order just in case (they don't cost much).
We also reused the stub axle seals and bearings, although I would recommend replacing while you're in there. A kit like this is available: www.paddockspares.com/da3191-stub-axle-kit-def-front-from-la.html
A new lock washer for the hub might be handy (or reuse the old one), and think about some new bolts for the swivel to axle. Although, as I said, we reused most of the parts, and it was fine for years).
Just be sure to get the correct parts (kit) for your model (obvs!). I have a surplus stock of stuff that was wrongly ordered, or not used...😅
If you're trying to cure death wobble, have a look at the panhard rod bushes first (ask me I know... perhaps you do as well, but it don't hurt to share experiences)
Hope this helps a bit. If you haven't already, check out part 2 (refitting) for all the parts we used and the other tips like torque settings etc: ua-cam.com/video/9BExJlVBVPA/v-deo.html
@@ASimplyFabLife Thanks for the speedy reply! this is great, thanks for sharing. definitely gives me a lot more piece of mind now that I won't miss anything. Really helpful!
Thanks for the comment. It would indeed be the same ... because our 90 is currently running on Disco1 axles ;-)
These axles replaced the Nissan Patrol axles that were used during the Croatia Trophy and Orawa (Poland) offroad competitions ... our old war-horse has seen many a battle!
This is the best instruction video i gave seen.. gives me fge confidence to tackle the job myself...
Have yiu done any other aspects with Rob? Thanks
Hi, thank you! Yes, Rob is very knowledgable on all things LR. Check out the playlist where you can find a number of opinion, discussion and repair videos: ua-cam.com/video/O8_J0oQofoI/v-deo.html
you have a nice voise lol i could go t bed with earphones in listen to you talk about landrover maintance
I was very intimidated by this job until I saw this video. Now I can't wait for the parts to arrive.
On your last point about the teflon coated swivel balls, my 2001 TD5 has shiny swivels. Does that mean the teflon has worn off and they should be replaced?
@@radsy5821 Cheers thanks for the comment. Happy that it will help 👍.
As far as I recall the shiny ones are stainless steel, so as long as they aren't pitted (little rusty dents and scratches from stones, gravel) they should be fine. The older ones were steel so when they got some pitting it would wear the seal faster - hence the teflon ones.
Depends on use really, roadwork no real problem.
You can also ask the defender Facebook pages, they're pretty good with advice.
Good luck 👍💪😎
Brilliant video and thanks for sharing. You need to do a series landy next please
Just one point folks, always remove rings etc off fingers before doing any work, seen to many injuries due to getting crushed or getting caught especially when getting out of landy, truck or tractor cabs etc and even more no no if you are working around electrical circuits.
good point Stapleford. Watched a guy get his finger ripped off one day because of a ring. Really though a Landy is straight-forward to work on. Mind you, once you move to turbo-diesel-Isuzu's a Stage 2 Landy seems like an Ox wagon. But then the Landy TD5 is a HEUI injected engine also and without an ECU.Both are a lot more than a pushrod engine eh. I guess the message is get with the plan (the 21st Century) or keep chipping rocks
Thanks for the reply :)
Awesome video, this job is on my list of things to do as I too have corrosion on my ball joint, and i feel alot more at ease knowing I can refer back to this video at anytime!
Excellent video, please do more
Thanks for your comments and we're really glad it's helped!!
Knowing how to adjust the tracking would be useful, as this would need doing after this change. Good Vid. :-)
Nice demo
...then latterly when I left the Army and became a bus driver...one guy wanted me to do a route I did not know and he said “..it’s easy..”..Then another driver said I did not know it then added...”it might be easy for you...but it’s only easy WHEN you know it..”
This tutorial is just that....this lady will know..the next time..maybe with a few questions..on what to do...”it’s not rocket science..”...but it is when you DON’T know....
Thanks julle.
Brilliant. Great help. Thank´s a lot!
Would this be pretty much the same on a Discovery 1?
Thanks.
Great stuff. May the LaRo gods be with you :-)
Very good thanks nice one
super
леди остаётся леди даже при ремонте такой машині
Z okazji dzisiejszego święta wszystkiego dobrego..... :-))) W Dzień Mężczyzny życzę :
gwiazdki z nieba, kasy ile potrzeba,samych radości, z nami czułości,zawsze miłości, spełnienia marzeń,niezapomnianych wrażeń.
Zdrowia, szczęścia pomyślności,dużo radości, masy słodyczy,wszystkiego dobrego, buziaka ciepłego,życzę właśnie tego wszystkiego !
Miłego świętowania przy lampce szampana.
reduction-image.com/mpeg-creation2/temp/eqt4t2n5kus2nrvkpj6cgg0ig6/indexweb.htm
***** присоеденяюсь
He reminds me of my first commander on tanks when I joined the British Army from training..then joined “the field Army” (i.e...REALITY)
sorry.. I have to say this.. you have a sexy assistant. A slim woman with long, well kept hair.. who understands the intimacy of a drivetrain... and puts grease on her hands. You lucky lucky bastard
Okay we are also open for teaching girls....
Land Rover mechanics ,very pedantic. Land Rover design err that old shit from the war will do.
solution to LR problems, buy a jeep.. half the price, half the weight, half the getting stuck in mud :)
But then you'll find that you're driving a jeep rather than a rover....
it's hard to work out which uses more gas.. a Jeep or a Rover. Either way they can send you broke. But in retrospect.. the Rover is WAY more capable off-road. The Jeep relies on you revving up and blasting through with spine bent into an "S" shape. The Rover plonks along at 1000rpm at 1mph with no wheel spin. My feeling with a Rover is "this thing is an on-road tractor", whereas with the Jeep it's "it's got shit all traction but a big engine so i'll try it faster and hope like hell I aim straight". Note: Rovers have a much higher re-sale than the Jeep. In fact the older a Rover gets the more valuable it becomes. People collect Rovers and dump Jeeps. What more can I say
haha Edwin, much like the Yanks approach military operations - all guns a blazing and flat out. Brits and Aussies much more considered and careful. In Australia Jeep parts are horrifically more expensive than LR De
fender parts