lot's of great info here...except for one tiny, little detail. You used the wrong thread chart. NFT is for tapered pipe thread. The 0.54"/13.72mm diameter is more than double the diameter you would need for 1/4-20. A UNC chart would have given you the correct thread width of 0.25"/6.35mm. I only post this because I needed to put a 1/4-20 thread in a part. Thought it seemed kinda big when I was plugging in the numbers. But everything else in here is gold!
What you did there is convinced me to get Tinkercad. And, ya I'd like you to show us how to put a thread on a sphere. That would be my end goal but as a newbie to cad. It's going to be fun figuring it out. Great vid. Subbed.
Your welcome, important thing to remember is that every printer is a little different so make a few small test prints to gauge how much you need to add in for your printer. Once you get a feel for it you won’t need to do that every time.
The tutorial is interesting and clear. But, if you want to print everything in 3D, you also have to pay attention to the distance between each thread in the nut, or you will not be able to screw it in until the end. To check this, make the thread (in this case the cylinder) transparent, insert the screw and check the difference. A small adjustment in the height of the inner thread will be sufficient.
You only have to extend the width . The whole object must not be expanded! This would change the pitch of the thread and it cannot be screwed at all. It is only necessary to create a gap to the sides. Counterpart only width :P . I think about 10% So if the screw has a width of, say, 16.5mm, just calculate 1% is 0.165 X 10 = 1.65 mm ( 16.5 + 1.65 = 18.15 mm counterpart
Thank You, I love simplicity especially without losing the Important things ... Great Work ... Please keep us informed and keep us the Good Work ... Thank You .. All the Best and above all - now - Stay Safe ...
Thanks so much for this. Very simple and easy to follow. Wasn't sure where to begin to decide how much bigger to make the threads in the hole when designing a nut and bold.
When designing a specific part to fit somewhere you sometimes only have inches to work with and it's far easier to machine in a unit you took pre-existing measurements for rather than opening yourself up to conversion errors by trying to use both.
@@Mr2greys Are you retarded? One isn't better than another it's just another form of measurement that you obviously don't understand. It's like saying the color green is BETTER than blue, no it's just different. Imperial in the USA is better because everything here is measured and available that way. I use metric as needed but imperial makes more sense to us because that's how everything around us is measured.
Aren’t pipe threads (NPT) supposed to have a taper to them? I thought that is what you were going to explain. Otherwise, these are just normal threads, or am I missing something?
Best of luck! Remember to make a few smaller test print to get your tolerances for your printed dialed in. Also rubbing some candle wax on the threads will help them go together a little bit easier.
@@TheEpiphanyShow I've got some Beeswax,But I also once added a little heat to a fastner to cut the thread into The plastic,Again nothing that needs torquing down
@@TheEpiphanyShow So I took your advice on a 16mm thread that I designed but made the recieving female thread 18mm ( As 17.5 was too tight) Still not as smooth as I'd like but it's screwing in with the help of some olive oil😂
I spent hours trying to find an easy solution to a fastener. I watched the first 5 minutes and then pulled a Homer Simpson when I realized there was a "Featured" section in Tinkercad. Thanks!!
Well done. Best of 5 I've watched on topic. More on pitch would be welcome. "PLA shrinks twice nozzle diameter" is interesting. Anyone else find this x-y regularity? Z-shrinkage?
Great video. Question, I have the need for 3x2 bushings with NPT threads. Cast iron is expensive and hard to find, plus costly to ship. Is it possible to 3D print? Thanks in advance.
This is great thanks. How would I change the length though? You have created 1 inch of thread. Do you do the math to scale it or is there an easier way to make it a different length?
Hey, thanks for explaining this. I have a air pressure spike regulator i am working on, and its funny that you mentioned air pressure at the end. I always anneal my pla+ and sometimes vapor smooth also for best pressure holding results. Did you ever end up testing it?
Great job you really need to have a series of tinker cad say 60 minute classes and charge a small fee. Also are you using a free tinkercad or is there a pay upgraded version of tinkercad.
Do you know how to control the minor diameter as well as the Major diameter? i.e. an M12 thread has a Major diameter of 12mm and a minor of 10.106mm. When making the female threaded part if the minor is too small, the bolt won't start in the hole.
i cannot find the threads in any category. also there is no featured category in my list. do you have to have an upgraded membership to get the featured category?
Do you know how to put the threads on the outside of a cylinder? I am trying to replicate my pool vacuum adapter from intex to summerwave pool? One cylinder needs the threads on the inside and one needs threads on the outside with a tube to connect both of them.
Hey, I’m glad you found the video helpful! If you find yourself getting stuck on something or would like to know how to do something just comment on one of my videos and I’ll try my best to get you some help!
TinkerCad is an amazing tool and I've designed hundreds of useful parts with it. Besides the issue with the whole NPT thing why did you use mm when making a 1/4" part. TinkerCad works just as well in inches as it does in metric.
I’m trying to make a stash jar with a screw I top. I’ve been trying everything to get it to screw together. I’ve tried every mm possible and it still won’t do it. Any advice?
Yes you could, but your weakening it at the same time since you will be cutting your outer wall layers. Once you have tuned your printer you should be able to get pretty tight fitting parts. In fact most of the time I have to give mine a bit of a rub with some wax for easy operation.
i need to make a compound miter setup block for a table saw . measurements are: 1st one 70 mm top 195 mm bottom 60 mm high. the second one is: 90 mm top 210 mm bottom 80 mm high any tips?
I suppose I’m confused on what exactly your making. I usually use a sled type jig for repeating mitre cuts. Might you be able to explain it better here or email me a link/drawing to what your looking to make? TheEpiphanyShowyt@gmail
Can you use tinkercad to add an existing SDL, and use tinkercad to measure a piece of that object that has a recessed section? Everytime I use the ruler it just shows how tall the object is and thats it. So like a box, it wont show how deep the inside of the box is
Unfortunately not. Best you can really do with tinkercad In this situation is make an object and merge the original as a hole and that would leave you with the void then you could use the measuring tool on that. Freecad is well free and the measuring tool is pretty easy to use.
Ever tried printing these in nylon? I'd imagine it would work well for holding air pressure. I use overture nylon for threaded carabiners and they are waaaaay stronger than my pla+ or petg carabiners. It shrinks like 1 or 2 percent on its own, so the threads match right up.
Great tutorial but when I came to put it into practice I discovered there's no way to control the thread height with this tool so "any thread" should be "many threads". I wonder why such a critical parameter is missing?
I'm trying to make a #6 Machine Screw and it's not working. I enter the numbers and it just makes the screw too skinny and the threads too large. It's frustrating.
Irrc at the time if I designed something in tinkercad in imperial when importing it into my slicing software it would convert to mm but not correctly. So 1” would become 1mm and you would have to convert it anyways. I’m not sure that’s the case anymore. Additionally I design almost everything with metric measurements in mind since most of the world that is what is standard so it’s commonplace for me now.
Unfortunately there is only a hacky/ annoying way to do that. You have to make it 1” at a multiple of the tpi you need. Then shrink it down and duplicate the object and match the threads up. So say you needed 32 tpi you would make a 1” thread at 16 tpi and then take the z handle and shrink it down to 1/2”. This then makes it a 32tpi thread however it’s only 1/2” long. So if you needed a long thread you Would duplicate the object and move the new one up to the top of the new piece. Then you can repeat this process for the length of threads you need.
so for simplicity sake. You have made a nut and a bolt. The bolt has a starting thread, but when you look at the nut. When you do the center alignment do you have to make sure the nut has a starting thread at both ends too ?
Lol you Could measure it or ..... google !! 😂 man after my own heart !!! Ive got a cheap knock off Dermal rotery too I need to 3d print a threded adapter so I can put it into a vice. Also subbed!
I have a paint roller that has a custom thread on it ( so you buy the companies extension pole), how do I go about measuring the internal thread size and pitch so I can print out an adapter?
They make a tool for it but I’m assuming you don’t have it or want to buy one. What I would do is stick something inside the threads until it bottoms out for the length and make a mark on it. Then I would use something like an o-ring pick to feel the bumps of the thread. In a straight line every bump should be 1 thread. Take the length and divide it by the number of threads. For example 50mm/25 threads = 2 threads per mm. If it’s 10mm wide it would be a M10 x 2.
I know this is an older vid but I just watched it. THANK YOU! Helped me out for sure.
Thanks for this, I just followed your guide and it worked first time! 😊
Interesting tutorial. I like that part where you changed how gradual the threads are formed. Thank you once again for this tutorial
Your welcome!
yes you saved the day. Ephiphany Printing
lot's of great info here...except for one tiny, little detail. You used the wrong thread chart. NFT is for tapered pipe thread. The 0.54"/13.72mm diameter is more than double the diameter you would need for 1/4-20. A UNC chart would have given you the correct thread width of 0.25"/6.35mm. I only post this because I needed to put a 1/4-20 thread in a part. Thought it seemed kinda big when I was plugging in the numbers. But everything else in here is gold!
He said NPT, which is for air tool/compressor connections. Is NPT different than NFT?
Thank you so much for this! Appreciate how clear it is for beginners, once I figured the thread size out, your instructions made it easy to replicate.
What you did there is convinced me to get Tinkercad. And, ya I'd like you to show us how to put a thread on a sphere. That would be my end goal but as a newbie to cad. It's going to be fun figuring it out. Great vid. Subbed.
thank you, you are the cause for my ability to advance my self with 3d modeling skill
Short, well explained and easy to follow!
Thank you for the great video!
So helpful! Much appreciated! I actually didn't think that Tinkercad was so 'advanced' to even generate threads...
Awesome tutorial. Thanks for sharing, particularly your approach to accounting for tolerances.
Your welcome, important thing to remember is that every printer is a little different so make a few small test prints to gauge how much you need to add in for your printer. Once you get a feel for it you won’t need to do that every time.
Thanks a million for this one - really clearly explained and helpful
The tutorial is interesting and clear. But, if you want to print everything in 3D, you also have to pay attention to the distance between each thread in the nut, or you will not be able to screw it in until the end. To check this, make the thread (in this case the cylinder) transparent, insert the screw and check the difference. A small adjustment in the height of the inner thread will be sufficient.
You only have to extend the width . The whole object must not be expanded! This would change the pitch of the thread and it cannot be screwed at all. It is only necessary to create a gap to the sides. Counterpart only width :P . I think about 10% So if the screw has a width of, say, 16.5mm, just calculate 1% is 0.165 X 10 = 1.65 mm ( 16.5 + 1.65 = 18.15 mm counterpart
Thank You, I love simplicity especially without losing the Important things ... Great Work ... Please keep us informed and keep us the Good Work ... Thank You .. All the Best and above all - now - Stay Safe ...
This saved my a lot of money, even with paying other to print my things. Thread adapters are way to expensive... Thank you!
Awesome job at explaining, need this to try and make fake suppressor
Thanks for making this so simple and understandable.
I never thought about why the holes were smaller. Nice
Fantastic video!! Very well explained and I learned something else as well, aligning 2 objects 😅👏. So glad I now know that 👍
Thanks, your video taught me how to make my first 3d printed threads. Thanks!
Great video! One question though, aren't pipe threads tapered for a tight fit? Does the thread menu give you that option?
thanks a lot. i made a 14mm cc thread for airsoft. I made the thread hole 15,5mm. it fits tight on the 14mm thread.
Thank you I want to do the same! Glad it worked!
I think you can change it to imperial inch, ie, "Edit Grid" bottom right.
Saved me a lot of time and stress. Cheers 🍻
That was awsome and very helpful. Only just starting out with Tinkercad. Thankyou very much.
Hey glad you liked it! If you want help with anything just let me know!
Thanks so much for this. Very simple and easy to follow. Wasn't sure where to begin to decide how much bigger to make the threads in the hole when designing a nut and bold.
Your welcome! If you need help on anything just leave a comment on one of my videos and I’ll do my best to help you out.
Thank you! This video was so helpful!
Thanks for this. Btw - you don't need to stay in millimeters. You can change to inches in "Edit Grid" bottom right.
But why would you want to? Metric has much more granularity
@@Mr2greysIf you need a thread in inch????
When designing a specific part to fit somewhere you sometimes only have inches to work with and it's far easier to machine in a unit you took pre-existing measurements for rather than opening yourself up to conversion errors by trying to use both.
@@Mr2greys Are you retarded? One isn't better than another it's just another form of measurement that you obviously don't understand. It's like saying the color green is BETTER than blue, no it's just different. Imperial in the USA is better because everything here is measured and available that way. I use metric as needed but imperial makes more sense to us because that's how everything around us is measured.
Millimeters is more accurate
Simple, easy to follow. Thanks.
Aren’t pipe threads (NPT) supposed to have a taper to them? I thought that is what you were going to explain. Otherwise, these are just normal threads, or am I missing something?
He mentions at 2:20 that they are ntp “basically, without the taper.” But yeah, you are correct.
Nice video. Easy and concise. Thanks bro!
Thanks for the tutorial. The volcano hotend will make a huge difference in print quality, and print speed.
Great tutorial, helped me a lot!
Great video,Thanks for posting as I'm printing Bolts and nuts that don't want to work together,I'm going to try this method 👌👌
Best of luck! Remember to make a few smaller test print to get your tolerances for your printed dialed in. Also rubbing some candle wax on the threads will help them go together a little bit easier.
@@TheEpiphanyShow I've got some Beeswax,But I also once added a little heat to a fastner to cut the thread into The plastic,Again nothing that needs torquing down
@@TheEpiphanyShow So I took your advice on a 16mm thread that I designed but made the recieving female thread 18mm ( As 17.5 was too tight) Still not as smooth as I'd like but it's screwing in with the help of some olive oil😂
Just like drilling a hole for a new bolt. You have to size it up. 👍🏽good stuff
I'm going to have to try this! Thanks!
Absolute hands down awesome tutorial, keep em coming.
I spent hours trying to find an easy solution to a fastener. I watched the first 5 minutes and then pulled a Homer Simpson when I realized there was a "Featured" section in Tinkercad. Thanks!!
If you go to the setting menu you can change the measurements to inches instead of mm
Excellent argument for scrapping imperial measurements. Well done. Subscribed.
Elegant solution to getting the pitch when handed threads per inch.
Is it possible to make lengths of threaded bar more then 20 Rotation ?
Cheers great Video..
Great tutorial! I was modeling a base for my wyze camera and this was perfect
Well done. Best of 5 I've watched on topic. More on pitch would be welcome. "PLA shrinks twice nozzle diameter" is interesting. Anyone else find this x-y regularity? Z-shrinkage?
Great video. Question, I have the need for 3x2 bushings with NPT threads. Cast iron is expensive and hard to find, plus costly to ship. Is it possible to 3D print? Thanks in advance.
How about tapered threads?
Great advice thanks
Thanks for sharing this video and information
This is great thanks. How would I change the length though? You have created 1 inch of thread. Do you do the math to scale it or is there an easier way to make it a different length?
Hey, thanks for explaining this. I have a air pressure spike regulator i am working on, and its funny that you mentioned air pressure at the end. I always anneal my pla+ and sometimes vapor smooth also for best pressure holding results. Did you ever end up testing it?
Wow, thanks but are there no inner and outer thread radius adjustments?
easy to follow step by step cheers
Great job you really need to have a series of tinker cad say 60 minute classes and charge a small fee. Also are you using a free tinkercad or is there a pay upgraded version of tinkercad.
This looks great. The only thing I want to add is that NPT thread is tapered. NC or NF is not.
Great video!
Any guide for unknow treads mesurement
Are you able to actually add the taper?
Do you know how to control the minor diameter as well as the Major diameter? i.e. an M12 thread has a Major diameter of 12mm and a minor of 10.106mm. When making the female threaded part if the minor is too small, the bolt won't start in the hole.
i cannot find the threads in any category. also there is no featured category in my list. do you have to have an upgraded membership to get the featured category?
Can you put threads on a cone?
Good video BUT,, how would you make the same bolt/thread pattern in a longer bolt, 3" long????????????
did you ever make the pressure chamber ?
Great video.
Great, strait to subject video. Thank You
Do you know how to put the threads on the outside of a cylinder? I am trying to replicate my pool vacuum adapter from intex to summerwave pool? One cylinder needs the threads on the inside and one needs threads on the outside with a tube to connect both of them.
I need left hand threads.
How would I make a threaded pipe like the one you just made but with a hollow middle. Like fully threaded PVC?
Use the cylinder tool and make and go all the way through your object as a hole.
finally getting around to trying to learn tinkercad, & this is SUPER helpful! thanks from a new subscriber!
Hey, I’m glad you found the video helpful! If you find yourself getting stuck on something or would like to know how to do something just comment on one of my videos and I’ll try my best to get you some help!
TinkerCad is an amazing tool and I've designed hundreds of useful parts with it. Besides the issue with the whole NPT thing why did you use mm when making a 1/4" part. TinkerCad works just as well in inches as it does in metric.
I’m trying to make a stash jar with a screw I top. I’ve been trying everything to get it to screw together. I’ve tried every mm possible and it still won’t do it. Any advice?
When printing, do you need support? I know the threads have some angle to them, but if support is needed when printing can it be cleaned out well?
No. They don't hang enough
wouldn't you get a tighter fit if you printed it undersized and then ran a tap through it after printing?
Yes you could, but your weakening it at the same time since you will be cutting your outer wall layers. Once you have tuned your printer you should be able to get pretty tight fitting parts. In fact most of the time I have to give mine a bit of a rub with some wax for easy operation.
I got a question, if I need a thread of more than 20 rotations how do I generate it? the thread generator doesn't support more than 20 rotations
Great tutorial!
Thanks for this converting to imperial had me stumped..
Did you ever pressure test this?
i need to make a compound miter setup block for a table saw . measurements are: 1st one 70 mm top 195 mm bottom 60 mm high. the second one is: 90 mm top 210 mm bottom 80 mm high any tips?
I suppose I’m confused on what exactly your making. I usually use a sled type jig for repeating mitre cuts. Might you be able to explain it better here or email me a link/drawing to what your looking to make? TheEpiphanyShowyt@gmail
This is excellent, thanks very much
Can you use tinkercad to add an existing SDL, and use tinkercad to measure a piece of that object that has a recessed section? Everytime I use the ruler it just shows how tall the object is and thats it.
So like a box, it wont show how deep the inside of the box is
Unfortunately not. Best you can really do with tinkercad In this situation is make an object and merge the original as a hole and that would leave you with the void then you could use the measuring tool on that. Freecad is well free and the measuring tool is pretty easy to use.
Ever tried printing these in nylon? I'd imagine it would work well for holding air pressure. I use overture nylon for threaded carabiners and they are waaaaay stronger than my pla+ or petg carabiners. It shrinks like 1 or 2 percent on its own, so the threads match right up.
Im struggling to put small items like rivets on models
Great tutorial, got a sub!
Thanks a lot!
Thank you
Thanks for the tutorial!!!
Clever 👍🏴
where can we get that iso metric thread you started with?
Thank you.
an NPT thread without the taper is not NPT. so how would you add the taper?
bro thank you for your help/content.
Ii need a generator up to 100mm diameter, where i can find?
Great tutorial but when I came to put it into practice I discovered there's no way to control the thread height with this tool so "any thread" should be "many threads". I wonder why such a critical parameter is missing?
I'm trying to make a #6 Machine Screw and it's not working. I enter the numbers and it just makes the screw too skinny and the threads too large. It's frustrating.
Did they not have imperial measure as an option when you made this? Because I certainly can work in inches on TinkerCAD.
Irrc at the time if I designed something in tinkercad in imperial when importing it into my slicing software it would convert to mm but not correctly. So 1” would become 1mm and you would have to convert it anyways. I’m not sure that’s the case anymore. Additionally I design almost everything with metric measurements in mind since most of the world that is what is standard so it’s commonplace for me now.
how do you make it go over 20 threads per inch
Unfortunately there is only a hacky/ annoying way to do that. You have to make it 1” at a multiple of the tpi you need. Then shrink it down and duplicate the object and match the threads up. So say you needed 32 tpi you would make a 1” thread at 16 tpi and then take the z handle and shrink it down to 1/2”. This then makes it a 32tpi thread however it’s only 1/2” long. So if you needed a long thread you Would duplicate the object and move the new one up to the top of the new piece. Then you can repeat this process for the length of threads you need.
thank you this helped a lot!
Your welcome!
so for simplicity sake. You have made a nut and a bolt. The bolt has a starting thread, but when you look at the nut. When you do the center alignment do you have to make sure the nut has a starting thread at both ends too ?
No you don’t. At least not from my experience
Lol you Could measure it or ..... google !! 😂 man after my own heart !!! Ive got a cheap knock off Dermal rotery too I need to 3d print a threded adapter so I can put it into a vice.
Also subbed!
I have a paint roller that has a custom thread on it ( so you buy the companies extension pole), how do I go about measuring the internal thread size and pitch so I can print out an adapter?
They make a tool for it but I’m assuming you don’t have it or want to buy one. What I would do is stick something inside the threads until it bottoms out for the length and make a mark on it. Then I would use something like an o-ring pick to feel the bumps of the thread. In a straight line every bump should be 1 thread. Take the length and divide it by the number of threads. For example 50mm/25 threads = 2 threads per mm. If it’s 10mm wide it would be a M10 x 2.
@@TheEpiphanyShow Thanks that sounds good to me!
Thanks!
What if you need more than 20 rotations? Say I wanted to print a 10" threaded rod.
Who would/could have guessed what tip scale meant without this?