how to change a compression angle stop
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- here’s a list of tools I use linktr.ee/replumb
for this project you’ll need:
small bucket
towels
two wrenches or pliers
two new compression angle stops
a ferrule puller or small saw
sandcloth
a new escutcheon
pipe dope or oil for the threads
two new faucet supply lines
No voices will make the mob angry!
I'm sure the "mob" has plenty of voices in their head they can listen to...
I had my wife out at the street on speaker phone and told her to slowly turn the key on the main valve. I told her to be ready to shut it quickly if I told her to. We went over how to turn it on and off before we began. This was a pretty simple repair.
Thanks! I really love your comedy videos but as I work vocationally too I want to learn how to do "all" my home maintenance myself before buying a house and useful information videos like this really help. We appreciate you!
And who certified you to do a how to video???!
Jk love your videos, you make my handyman plumbing quality go up
Nice work doing the entire process one handed! Looks pretty tight under there.
Hello,
Please, list the names of the tools you used to install the faucet.
Thank you.
Hercules is disappointed they did not see your favorite Megaloc dope used in this video!
Hey boy! Good job!
I love learning new stuff! Thank you
This is a quick and simple repair. If things come loose. If they don't, you go nowhere fast.
What's the name of that straight tool that you thread on the angle stop to hold it in place?
yes, im looking for this tool as well
Thank you so so much for the plumbing education. Really interesting stuff.
Nice and straightforward sir 👍 😎
Thanks for watching
That was so fast. Well done. I recently replaced two under kitchen sink. One has a very slow leak(one or two drips in a six hour period) at copper/valve connection. I tightened very tight after I saw the first leak. Didn't stop it. Tighten more, or do over?
At this point I would probably do it over. You could risk deforming the pipe if you over tighten it
👍👍🙂 Keep up the great work Evan
Hey boy! I came here for voices.
No hater voice?!?!?... You tryna start a riot boi?!?!
Hey boy why dont you use a good pair of plyers 😂 voice over is the best
I tried replacing the valves under my sink but they are caked on there. They've probably been on the copper pipes since '59.
They might be sweated ( solder ). Or threaded galvanized
@@gregoryhawsjr3479 I actually ended up hiring a plumber. It was threaded galvanized.
The kid doesn't mess around now does he?
Nice and clear. Hey I saw someone using a blue paste. Something like putty?
Errrrrrr guys leave hose bibs and faucets on and slowly turn water on so it dont blow ur valve apart 😂
I took a shot every time you said but now I think I gotta go to the Er thx 🎉
I actually have one that's busted... thanks... I will work on it...
What's that rod with the 3/8" compression thread you use to keep the valve in place? Very useful!
I feel like you had a video on Ferrell cutter tool that you recommended?
Hi thank you sharing the video, where can I get the wrench same as yours, thx
Anyone notice how he stopped putting dope on the threads/compression fitting since his class with oatey? He used to say, " THis is the way I was taught." Well, he was taught wrong.
Take initiative, strive to be better instead of saying that this was the way I was taught.
I was taught that I could tile right over greenboard in a shower, and we all know that is wrong.
Wrong🤣I still do it.
@@replumb Don't you want to be better? Have you ever thought about how a compression fitting works? Pipe dope on the threads will do nothing to prevent a leak. The sealing surface is between the ferrul and the lip of the valve, and the surface of the pipe. Putting anything on any of those surfaces could inhibit a seal. Putting it on the threads does nothing but makes a mess. Maybe a drop off oil on the threads to reduce friction allowing for a better compression of the ferrul, but that's it.
Be better.
Still love your vids, boy.
it literally doesn't matter in the slightest bit @@travisk5589
Where is the new ferrell? Was it all inside the new stop valve? I didnt see you slide the ferrell on
What is the name of players you use here ?
Do you use a ferrule puller or just cut the olive into and pry it off?
Hi where you get that tool to hold the angle stop? And would you recommend to pull the old nut and put all new? Thanks
The answer about replacement is always YES! Why marry old with new if you can with a few extra minutes have an all NEW set up. Eliminates potential problems.
I want that stop wrench so bad who makes it
Ill help yall with the tool on the back side. The tool is called Ratcheting Flare Nut Wrench. Comes in different sizes so order accordingly.
What about the other tool he threads onto the 3/8" valve to keep the valve body in place
what is the name of the tool you use to loose up the nut behind the angle stop?
Never mind, found it. Kwik Tite Wrench (Rapid) or angle stop wrench with a Angle-on Wrench
What city in NorCal are out of?
A comment for the algorithm
Thank you for watching
Just did this yesterday in our house that we bought as a foreclosure.
What if you forget the escushan?
They make Escutcheon that pull apart.
Buy white plastic ones. Cut them with the pex cutters. Use the slit side at the bottom
@@alexguevara4874 thank you!! :D enjoy your weekend!
Likes are not enabled? but why? And no "Hey Boay" Sad :( Thx for the lesson
hey i live in sac, how much you charge for a water heater replacement
$2k
@@replumb Thats good to hear. I just replaced one in roseville and wasnt sure what to charge. A g for labor sounds good.
It’s not called a ferrule but a sleeve. 😂
Why aren't you using high quality Dahl valve angle stops? They are the best and most reliable.
You dont even mention how tight to turn it
The technical term would be good-n-tite. Unless you read the manufacturer’s instructions, they’d tell you a half turn past hand tight
Tight enough it doesn't leak but not so tight it starts to get lose again.