THANKS! I did purchase my Hitch from you. Still need to purchase this harness. Looks like I will need a mechanic to install the harness. You do have to have suv on a lift. Great video and rear connections seem easy DIY but running wire under body is where I would need that help. Thanks again and hope some day I can finalize a total working hitch with lights! 9/15/2024 *Just ordered from ETrailer the Curt Kit for the lights and Great Price!
Why not use the dealer option tie-in plug right above that grommet you ran the power outside of the vehicle? All you have to do is put a fuse in the engine-compartment fusebox to give the thick wire power. I just branched off that. Some people have said the curt kit draws power at all times, so it will drain the battery. So I will test that out and if so then put in either a high load switch or a relay attached to a simple switch.
@@LizardsEyes I think it is the wire bundle at 8:09 - if you follow that up you'll have a separate plug which isn't connected to anything with 2 wires. No power going to it. Under the hood in that fuse box you'll have a dealer option fuse-holder with nothing in it. Take a spare fuse or new and populate it. Then you'll have power coming out of the thicker wire on the plug and you can tie directly into that. The female spades are perpendicular to one another.
@@LizardsEyes Double checked, it is that wire bundle I'm pointing out at 8:09 - right above your thumb. Follow that up and there'll be a plug which is attached to the bundle with a wrap of some kind holding the connector to the bundle of wires. What I did was since I didn't have a plug, I removed the spade and soldered part of the wire that came with the kit to the back end of it, with heat-shrink wrap with waterproofing glue, and put it back together. I think it calls for a 30 amp fuse but nothing is connected to that so you can either fuse the trailer lights with that fuse in the engine-bay or have one in the engine bay for that wire, then come off of it and use the in-line making it easier for the customer to debug.
@@etrailerSo I'd you buy the car with factory tow hitch so they build the car with extra wiring in it or is that wiring actually there in the back of the car somewhere?
This is a setup that's commonly seen on smaller vehicles that aren't used full-time for towing. You can route the 4-pole outside if you wish (there's usually a grommet somewhere under the carpet in the cargo area). There's a huge benefit to storing the connector in the vehicle when it isn't being used- you won't need to worry about corrosion or damage if the connector is safely stowed away. I had this setup on my old minivan, and it worked perfectly for years when I needed to tow my PWC trailer. The weatherstrip on the rear hatch is thick enough that the wires feeding the trailer connector WILL NOT be damaged as long as you avoid the latch. Hope that helps clear it up for you. www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/CURT/C56033.html
Add some no-ox grease to all exposed wires and bare metal and you'll be golden.
THANKS! I did purchase my Hitch from you. Still need to purchase this harness. Looks like I will need a mechanic to install the harness. You do have to have suv on a lift. Great video and rear connections seem easy DIY but running wire under body is where I would need that help. Thanks again and hope some day I can finalize a total working hitch with lights! 9/15/2024 *Just ordered from ETrailer the Curt Kit for the lights and Great Price!
Good deal! We appreciate your business!!
www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/CURT/C56033.html
Why not use the dealer option tie-in plug right above that grommet you ran the power outside of the vehicle? All you have to do is put a fuse in the engine-compartment fusebox to give the thick wire power. I just branched off that. Some people have said the curt kit draws power at all times, so it will drain the battery. So I will test that out and if so then put in either a high load switch or a relay attached to a simple switch.
What wire exactly do you mean? Can you please point where in the video ( or just describe a bit more). Which wire draws power all the time?
@@LizardsEyes I think it is the wire bundle at 8:09 - if you follow that up you'll have a separate plug which isn't connected to anything with 2 wires. No power going to it. Under the hood in that fuse box you'll have a dealer option fuse-holder with nothing in it. Take a spare fuse or new and populate it. Then you'll have power coming out of the thicker wire on the plug and you can tie directly into that. The female spades are perpendicular to one another.
@@LizardsEyes Double checked, it is that wire bundle I'm pointing out at 8:09 - right above your thumb. Follow that up and there'll be a plug which is attached to the bundle with a wrap of some kind holding the connector to the bundle of wires. What I did was since I didn't have a plug, I removed the spade and soldered part of the wire that came with the kit to the back end of it, with heat-shrink wrap with waterproofing glue, and put it back together. I think it calls for a 30 amp fuse but nothing is connected to that so you can either fuse the trailer lights with that fuse in the engine-bay or have one in the engine bay for that wire, then come off of it and use the in-line making it easier for the customer to debug.
How about routing the wire with the factory wiring loom?. You know, like inside the car.
You can absolutely do that if you wish, but it adds time and complication to the install.
www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/CURT/C56033.html
@@etrailerSo I'd you buy the car with factory tow hitch so they build the car with extra wiring in it or is that wiring actually there in the back of the car somewhere?
Getting a vehicle with the tow package already installed would certainly be much easier, assuming it's an option.
This does not seem to be a good permanent solution to run the wire from the inside and drape it over the rear bumper every time you need to use it.
This is a setup that's commonly seen on smaller vehicles that aren't used full-time for towing. You can route the 4-pole outside if you wish (there's usually a grommet somewhere under the carpet in the cargo area). There's a huge benefit to storing the connector in the vehicle when it isn't being used- you won't need to worry about corrosion or damage if the connector is safely stowed away. I had this setup on my old minivan, and it worked perfectly for years when I needed to tow my PWC trailer. The weatherstrip on the rear hatch is thick enough that the wires feeding the trailer connector WILL NOT be damaged as long as you avoid the latch. Hope that helps clear it up for you.
www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/CURT/C56033.html