Cub Cadet Dozer Build EP #12, I Can't Believe I Cut It OFF!
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- Опубліковано 7 лют 2025
- The belt tensioner assembly is completed and installed, the operator's track controls are partially built and test fitted. The blade lift bracket is removed with less than surgical precision, to be replaced with something else. Eventually. Several track pads are cut out on the plasma table and fit to the conveyor chain. Mounting a sprocket on the dozer hub temporarily lets us try the track sample on for size.
Using parts from two vintage Cub Cadet garden tractors, along with metal fabrication and welding work, we are building a mini dozer from (almost) scratch.
I use a Langmuir Systems Crossfire Pro plasma table with a Razorcut 45CNC plasma cutter and a machine torch to create many needed parts. At times we shift to the Bridgeport-clone knee/vertical mill or South Bend 10 inch lathe to complete a machining step. Occasionally, the South Bend shaper or the Logan lathe is called on for specialty work.
A Hobart Handler welder is my primary MIG welder, and it comes into play at nearly every step. If I'm not running the welder, an Oxy/Acetylene torch or the Eastwood Cut 40 plasma cutter is fired up for some molten metal removal.
Making a mini-dozer will add to the collection of equipment that I previously built, including the mini-motor grader and the tandem axle Cub Cadet dump truck/gator.
Dewalt and Makita grinders and drills, eVolution metal cutting saws, a Grizzly metal cutting band saw and Jet grinders and sanders see regular use in my projects.
I would love to have a shop like yours with all the big boy toys.
My dad was a huge Cub fan, he past away last month and it’s left a hole in my heart. The last thing he ask me to do was to fix the clutch on his 129. So I guess I’m going to try and figure it out. Thank you for the videos.
Sorry to hear about the loss of your Dad. A clutch on a 129 is very unusual. The 129 is a hydrostatic transmission which usually doesn't have a clutch. A few were fitted with them to "disconnect" the hydro from the engine to ease starting in cold climates. A 129 with a "disconnect clutch" is a rare breed indeed. Lots of videos on UA-cam showing how to do the repairs and ccspecialties.org will have all the parts you need. Good Luck!
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 I meant the clutch for the PTO on the front of the engine. Someone had done a shade tree fix on it at some point.
Looking forward to seeing it preform
I Love video I find myself fascinated all of thing you do I wish that I could do I do in joy watching you I would to say thank you.
I find it amusing to see you measure things to make a new part to assemble the new additional assembly. And you use a digital caliper to the thousandth of an inch, and even use a calculator to add up everything to get the absolute precise total length...and then you say I am going to add about a quarter of an inch on both ends so I can put a cotter pin in. And than after welding it all up, you state you are going to add a couple washers to take up the space. So much for the super precise measurements you started with... lol Thumbs Up though...
To help quickly and accurately align the chain to the tracks, make a simple jig plate to drop into the track's rectangular hole and inside of the chain link. This will set the front-to-back and side-to-side relationship without the need for laborious measuring each time.
Yep, something like that would work. Definitely will need some sort of jig to aid the set up so they are all welded up the same.
In my younger years I did a lot of auto body sheet metal welding and in doing that needed to make many tac welds. I noticed that my tac welds were a bit spattery at the start and I knew this was because the shielding gas took a fraction of a second to cover my tac welds and the oxygen in the air was contaminating each tac weld as I made them. I modified my welder to have a two position switch so that the gas valve was triggered first and by pulling the trigger farther then both the gas and the welder were switched on. What a huge difference it made in my tac welds. Just saying...I love your dogs!
That is a great welding protip.
Love that you like to work within tight tolerances but think dirt, rocks and tree branches that will get stuck between your track plates. A gap of 1 inch is my call. Great build.
Looking good it's coming wright along!
Id weld on 3/8 or 1/2" rebar onto the pads....no holes and no bolt. And it would be super easy to replace them later if the wear down or pop
super smart suggestion, cheep simple fix
He did say that he may opt for rubber pads instead of metal grousers but in either case he can bolt them on.
I like how you show the screw ups. Its real like stuff we all do
Love the vids ur doing good work ..like the longger vids if they can be longger that whould be nice and focuses on one thang at a time but I do like the moving around and working on more then just one thang
Thank you. I wonder about the best length. I'm just recording the things I work on over the course of a week so it turns out to be several tasks in parallel. Sometimes I need to set a component aside while I think about what I want to do with it next. Most are working out to be about an hour long.
Awesome progress
I really enjoy watching you videos. Keep them coming.
At 5:35 when you loosened the lathe chuck and left the key in the chuck, I flashed back to when my instructor slapped me across the back of the head for doing exactly that! My instructor drilled into all of his students; "If you aren't tightening or loosening the chuck, the key WILL NOT BE IN THE CHUCK! (rumble of and a flash of lightning for extra drama). A chuck key accidentally left in the chuck can kill or maim. And certainly do some serious damage to the work shop!
was wandering how long this comment was going to take to pop up.
I've seen it happen twice. It wasn't pretty. Exciting yes, pretty no. No it wasn't me either time. LOL!
Cheers
Terry from South Carolina
@@metalworksmachineshop
Apparently not very long since both the video and the comment at this time were posted 5 hours ago.
Yep! ... it made me feel another kind as well. Worth pointing out as these vids are looked at by every tom dick and harry around the world and you would think an uninformed person with an engine lathe may pay a price if murphy's law has it's say.
my metal shop teacher said always take the chuck key out,if you don,t and turn the machine on that key will hit ya in the boy,s.Well one day I forgot to take the chuck key out and turned the machine on,the teacher just happened to see it,he came over with a grin and said hurt didn,t it.
You are the man!!!!! Your going to add some treads on tracks arnt you? You havent said that I know of anyways. You and the toy builder guy are geniuses!! Keep sending vids!!
My current thought (always subject to change) is to add overlap strips to the track pads. I still plan to leave holes for future rubber strips/bolt on grousers, but don't currently have plans to add them at first. The overlap strips will provide some traction. There is so much to do, that I'm working towards a basic functioning machine while leaving lots of opportunities for future improvements.
“The toy builder guy”
Do you mean Don Campbell in Michigan?
He might be planning a dozer too with that zero turn mower that he acquired this year.
Just to let you know, I'm amazed at all the ideas you have come up with. You must have been around these pcs of equipment all your life or just one of those really smart fellers. It's a joy watching you work so just keep it up. Roll Tide!!
When you make your track pads remember that your track rollers need to operate too so anything you weld on the inside of them needs to still allow the rollers to work.
As for 6 way vs 4 way blade. Your motor grader already has a 6 way blade. 😉
Good point.. Hmm...
Awesome Work.
I think the track pads are a bit to close together and don't have enough gap between them. They look like they may bind when they sag going down to the front idler. This is a very cool build and look forward to you posting. Also I have heard the welding motto go A grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain't.
The track chain will sag and put the tracks closer together - opposite of going around the sprocket where they separate. Either need to be smaller or overlap by bending so that they clear. This will be a problem on the top when the chain sags and on the bottom between the boogie idlers.
enough technical explaining,,,build the darn thing!!!
Things are moving along nicely!
looking good
It looks good.
Looks great 🍻
Dozers overlap them by bending one side up and the other down . Creating no gaps in the chain while around the wheels, look a big dozers. You could easily do it..
Sorry, commented before your explanation about grousers. No matter the thickness of the pads grousers give you traction and steering capability.
Looks awesome. I'm a new subscriber. You do awesome work.
Thanks and welcome!
John, you are doing a great job on the dozer, it’s going to look when it’s done.
I really enjoy watching your videos, this is going to be a badass dozer when it’s all done.
Cutting a small groove in the pin and using a C clip could also work rather than a cotter pin. Great work by the way
But a cotter pin is more secure, easier to make work, and more available when replacement is needed than the c, e, and snap ring clips.....every dollar store has a cotter pin assortment 😉
Hi, I am amazed at your ideas. Just some advice on the track I would consider putting in gussets as the track plate might bend, I am not saying it will but just some thought.
Great work so far keep it up
.
So much to consider! If I feel the pads are at risk of bending, then I think grousers on the outside surface may be the way to go.
Frank, I got a friend of mine a bunch of parallels at the scrap yard, and also a 1 2 3 block. People around here are so wasteful. Another guy took a load of cutters and drill bits from a closed machine shop to a scrap yard, and that one didn't sell stuff. It's so sad.
I think a lot of neat stuff gets trashed when someone dies and either the family doesn't care or the auction house they call in can't be bothered or doesn't know the value. Probably be the case with me, too, at some point. But, like they say, you can't take it with you.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 they don't put u-haul trailers behind hearses. I went to the scrap yard yesterday, and came back with 5 wrenches. 4 are name brand, and one was made of Chinesium. One is a Heyco BMW car wrench, two are Armstrong, and one is Herrbrand. All told, the wrenches set me back a whole $2.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 you and me both.
Make sure you leave enough clearance between the track pads so rocks and debris won't get stuck.
Yep. Need to do that.
Great work and inspiration, I have an Oliver OC-3 That has a transplanted Mercedes 4 cyl diesel and trans in it. I got it running close to 10 years ago but it's been waiting completion since then. When the shop projects allow I want to get back at it, that Plasma table has been teasing me for years and would be the perfect addition. Rough cutting brackets etc for that conversion was not a lot of fun. This would allow a lot quicker finish! Keep up the vids , can't wait to see this machine in motion!
You make me want to build a bulldozer that I don't need but it be cool to have one 😂
Have you thought about rubber track pads made from old tires its a thought.
really enjoying the build, excellent work,cant wait for the next vid,Godbless
Looking good
Awesome content! Love the new plasma cam!!
Nice episode. Thank you.
Weld-on Pulley Lagging for rubber on the tracks. looks good..
A GRINDER AND PAINT MAKES ME THE WELDER I AINT… 😁
sir,
I don't know if it matters that if the two washers next to each other on the belt were separated, providing a side load ware surface, creating a longer life. This being said, obviously you see an attached link to my dozer project... lol
keep up the inspiring work :)
Cool video just wondering if you thought of putting a winch on the back or rippers or nothing lol keep the vids coming peaceout
Yes, thinking about all those possibilities.
“A grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain’t.”
I was thinking the same lol
ChuckE2009 used to say that all the time.
“I try my best & grind the rest”
Could Ya weld 1"x1" of bar stock to the width of the track pad?... to strengthen them, from bending, & prevent track spin on turns & while moving, for traction! I'm fascinated by your expertise in fabrication!... Thank's Frank! My nickname, as I'm known by everyone!... is "Swabbie"!
A grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain't
Nothing to do with your build, I'm just excited I FINALLY got a 1970 Cub 127. She's a bit rough, gas that was in it is well over 20 years old (yes I have a comparison from a gas 1949 Ferguson left sitting for 19-20 years). I'm excited to say the least. She looks to be in great condition. Worst parts are the tank and the seat. Hope to have her back up and running ASAP
The 127 is a sweet tractor. I'm partial to wide frames and Quiet Lines, but I have a 123 and a 72, both narrow frames. Most you find these days have been sitting for a decade or more, so your situation is typical. Northern Tool sells a good replacement seat and tanks are easy to find used. Ebay is a good source, or call Ray Weaver (google Ray Weaver Cub Cadet parts) or find him on FB. I think it's Ray's IH parts on FB. He'll have a good tank. Good luck with it!
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 thanks for the information! I’ll be hitting him up for a tank ASAP! I am totally loving your builds! Can’t wait for more to come!
I see a lot of people that are going to have a hard time with the test later that weren’t listening to Proffessor Frank during the lecture.
The belt tensioner would a electric solenoid actuator also work? Nice video.
I would think you might need more of a gap between the track pads for dirt / mud that will stick to them and cause binding problems.
yes, you are correct.
Not sure of the mechanics of it, but do the pads on the tracks benefit from a gap between them for grip? Just thinking the straight run in contact with the ground will be like sliding a sheet across the floor without gaps to bite into the ground?
Also, if the track flexes 'backwards' when you drive over a bump, you'll need a gap between the pads so they don't interfere?
For the same reason as above, you may need to space the pad off the chain link, so the chain links themselves don't try to force the pad off it's weld when it flexes backwards.. may be wrong, just thinking aloud!
Current plan is to weld overlap strips to the front edge of each pad to overlap the pad in front of it. Those strips should act as grousers. I don't want to get very aggressive on the grousers at first, want to see how it works. I can always come back and add them later if needed.
Hadn't thought about the consequences of the track flexing backwards. I have considered spacing the track off the chain to increase ground clearance just a bit, so maybe that's two reasons to do that.
Curious as to your reasons of going with metal tracks? Other than cost is there any key differences? I have saw some kits online with tracks and drive wheels, you’d just have to make your own bogie wheels.
Awesome project! I keep waiting for next installment.
Cheers
Terence
With the control (hydro) handles constantly moving and the friction/wear between the 3/4 rod & tubing, is there any chance of adding grease zircs to the tubing?
Have you thought about adding grease fittings to your leaver pivot.
I'll grease the inner rod at assembly. It's not like it's turning at high speed for periods of time, just a bit of back and forth motion.
A grinder and paint make me the welder I ain’t 🤷🏻♂️
Wouldn't hurt to cover that carb while doing all that grinding. Lol
Good idea.
I think that your air gauge is off on your plasma table! You need more air pressure for a cleaner cut and a little more cut speed for no dingle berry's and a cleaner cut
Still learning how to best use it. I'll check air pressure. I need to try faster cut speeds as you've suggested, but I'm going by some cut charts provided by the Langmuir forum users.
Are you going to weld grousers to your track pads or are those pads just for mockup use?
@12:06 make sure to oil your vice when drilling. take notes youngins. 😂
Get yourself some flapper disk for that grinder
How are you going to attach the track pad to the master link of the chain?
That's a great question! I've thought about it a lot. I don't see any reason it can't be welded. That way, the master link is just an entire track section rather than just a chain link. It should go on and off without any issue? The alternative is to use brackets and bolt the pad on that link. Still up in the air at this point...
I could be wrong but I went back to the vid that you unpacked the chain and master link and it looks to me that if you weld to the outboard links (including the master link) you will need to weld the track plate with the master link in place, that will preclude you from splitting the chain unless you cut the track pad off first.
Trunions
What did u use for the chain spec and we’re did u git it from
redboarchain.com
Grind and paint makes me the welder I aint🙂
In my case a grinder and paint make me the welder I ain't.
What size chain are you using?
81XH conveyor chain.
6. Way
MGBYAAIJNA 👍😎
I can't imagine you'd have any traction without grousers. Even the Struck design includes them. See also youtube videos of sherman tanks sliding on ice. When Mike (Dirt Perfect) toured Truck or Track they showed the track plates bolting to the chain so you could replace either independently. Depending on which wears the fastest, would be shame to have to rebuild the whole thing.
Hi there having fun watching this project! For the blade if you are going to go with a full 6-way blade are you planning to make it a full VPAT with hydraulics? Or would you just have life and tilt on hydraulics, and then have the angle as manual with three drop pin holes to move the push arms to angle it? Depending how on your hydraulic situation is I’d say sacrificing hydraulic angle to manual if needed would be what I would do.
Trying to figure out why u need independent control levers for the transaxles ? Seems to me that only 1 would b necessary for moving the machine forward and backwards.
Need to turn somehow so each track needs to operate independently.
I hope the measurements between the front and rear sprockets is dead on so you wont need a track tensioner. The way the axles are hard mounted, there is no room for adjustment is there?
and maybe a tensioner isnt needed...
A tensioner is planned. No way could you ever get the spacing perfect, and allow for stretch of the track over time.
I am just still trying to figure out how the hydro rear ends are going to turn it and make it go straight since both are open differentials. Need something more like a zero turn with to separate drive motors
Watch episodes 3-5.
Second!!!!!
I think your main issue with welding is you’re not able to see what is going on properly. Make sure you’re comfortable and your hands are steadied by resting on something. Also the wiggles you do are too fast. If you are moving from side to side then it should only be at the same speed you are traveling at.
Some of the footage is sped up, so that makes it look fast? Being comfortable and having good hand/arm support is crucial I am learning for nice looking welds. I think if I take my time, and try to get a nice bead, I usually can. Sometimes I'm impatient and try to go too fast and get a crappy looking weld. It is definitely a learning curve and a skill that takes time to master. Some day...
Yeh I think the wiggles may be too fast even before speeding up. If your angle is correct you don’t actually need to do them. Technically you just end up making a weld wider than it needs to be. I still do it myself though. With mig you can cheat a bit by welding downhill. Hold still for a second at the start until you get an appropriate bead width established then just lead it along matching your speed to the bead width. You might benefit from a “cheater panel” which is a magnifying lens that goes inside your mask to get a closer perspective. 1.5x is plenty normally. Thanks for the reply and thanks for taking the time to share your projects with us!
I see people doing it both ways. Making little circles, U's, C's or otherwise "wiggling" can make a nice looking weld. I've seen great welds where the torch is just moved in a straight line. I don't seem to get decent beads that way and I don't know why. I just ordered a Hobart 210 as an upgrade to my Hobart 135. I think I need the extra power for 1/4 inch and thicker material. I also need to change the shade on my helmet to see better. It has a dial so I can do that easily. It's all a learning curve... And thanks for following along on this build!
Set it up for a 6-way blade and build both of them then all's you have to do is unbolt the sidearms remove the cylinder the lifts it up and down and you'll be good to go swap blades
First
Here’s your cookie. 🍪
🤣😂
Link the 2 reunions together with a single lever.
Can’t do that. One trunnion controls the hydrostat for the left track and the other controls the hydrostat for the right track.
He did do one control lever for the 2 trunnions on his grader because both hydrostats worked in unison.
Watch episodes 3-5 Godbless
An automotive belt tensioner would've been better you could've always made a pulley wider but you also need bearings heavy duty enough to stand up to the rpm they will run at. I can almost guarantee that tensioner will fail!
So true, needle bearings are used for very low RPM.