Gluing Up A Flat Panel | Build a Cutting Board with Hand Tools | Hand Plane Foundations

Welcome to my Hand Plane Foundations course. In this course I'm going to introduce the different types of bench planes and discuss their setup and use, focusing on the planes you’ll need most as a new hand tool woodworker. I’ll cover sharpening the iron, setting up the cap iron, and troubleshooting and tuning the tool up to perform at its best. I’ll finish up by building a modern two tone cutting board from some beautiful North American hardwoods, completely by hand.

[@cooperdayz6959]

Great video! Did you happen to resume your excellent podcast? I really enjoyed it.

[@BobRozaieskiFineWoodworking]

Thanks! No the podcast is done for the foreseeable future.

[@anxiousmerchant4129]

For White glue (water dispersion PVA) putting glue on both sides lengthens the time window before pressure has to be applied by 10-20 minutes depending on shop temperature.
The fresh wet glue has no problem penetrating the wood, However, once some of the water has wicked in and it becomes semi transparent it will no longer fully bond to the second raw piece.
But it will still bond to another glue layer just fine and without sliding.

[@BobRozaieskiFineWoodworking]

Gluing one side of this piece worked just fine. In fact, in over 30 years of doing this, I’ve never had a failure gluing only one side. If I need 10-20 minutes of open time I use a different glue (liquid hide glue).

[@michaelthompson5875]

Excellent video Bob, thank you so much. Just one question. I normally follow the standard advice to alternate clamps (say for four clamps it would be bottom, top, bottom, top on the piece you made here). If I'm working with boards at 1.25" thick or thicker I get pretty flat panels. But thinner boards I'm still getting some cupping. Am I just cranking down too hard? I think I might be compensating for a poor joint.
Again, this is an excellent series, I've watched all of them all the way through. Thank you so much.

[@BobRozaieskiFineWoodworking]

You should be able to close the joint by hand before applying clamps. The clamps are only there to hold things in good contact, not force them together. If the joint goes together by hand and is flat before applying clamps, then it should stay flat after clamps are applied. If it doesn’t stay flat once clamps are applied then either there’s too much clamp pressure or the joint didn’t fit well to begin with.
One thing I like to do to check edge joints is put one board in my bench vise and then just balance the mating board on top. Then I’ll hold a straight edge up to the two boards to see if they come together flat. If the dry fit is flat and the joint is closed, or just a hair hollow, then I know it will stay flat when I clamp it. But if the boards aren’t flat during that dry fit, no amount of clamping will make the resulting panel flat. I like this method as opposed to putting the boards flat on the bench top to check for flatness because having them vertical won’t hide small deviations in the mating edges like testing them flat in the workbench can.