Since he is finally times with the Revo to climb on the route - glad to see. Most of the videos are with the Grigri. Personally, I've decided for the Revo,i am aware of the error possibilities. Stay healthy and continue to have fun with video shooting, Christian
If you never fall, the Revo can be good. My Revo show a lot of wear after relatively little climbing on it. Also you know about the repetitive unlock failure right? See ua-cam.com/video/BHkIcej8UxU/v-deo.html and ua-cam.com/video/tmnSkb7LWgk/v-deo.html
Imagine the course ;-) !!! I am happy you learned something!! Make sure you understand the repetitive unlock failure mode if you ever intend to use the Revo as a rope solo device!!!
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing yes I am planning on climbing more Cornish granite sea cliff routes with my LRS Revo will keep you informed of how it is going I'm sure all will be good and will have many years to train this great LRS skill!
great video Yann. I am trying to figure out your set up. it seems u using a WIld country revo with a back up loop tied to your belay loop through a clove hitch? also, what is purpose of the link you have attached to your harness just below the Revo on the live rope?
I believe the link below the Revo is at the start to anchor the rope on the lead bolts. Is that it? The full details of the systems, failure modes, what you need to take care of and how is in my online course: blissclimbing.com/en/online-courses/ Have you seen the repetitive unlock failure mode in the free videos on my youtube channel? That might be one of the important things to think about if you want to lead with the Revo...
Good climb, I'm starting rope solo, just top rope for now, one pitch. I'm just working out what works for safety, speed and simplicity. How do you like the Revo, as opposed to the Grigri? My Grigri works fine so far, in conjunction with the jumar and the pulley attached to that makes it easy to pull out the slack on the low side. I can attach my PAS to the jumar, but it gets caught up with the belay handle, sometimes.
I recommend neither the Revo or the Grigri for Top Rope Solo (TRS)! The Revo is for expert only AND you need to understand its failure modes before ATTEMPTING TRS. The grigri is simply not pleasant because of the friction and it can also fail! I suggest you look into other devices like the Micro Traxion and always use backups! Please have a look (and buy because it is the BEST!! ;-) my TRS online course here: blissclimbing.com/en/online-courses/
Hi Yann, do you like rope solo lead climbing with the revo more than with the silent partner? What is your favourite device for rope solo lead? What is the modification in the revo are you talking about in an comment?
All details for the systems, modifications, etc. are in the online courses here: blissclimbing.com/en/online-courses/ I should say that I currently do not have a favorite device. Each has pros and cons and failure modes. Because I want to continue improving my Lead Rope Solo (LRS) Online Course that covers all devices I judge "acceptable" for LRS, I have to use them all as much as possible (Revo, Eddy, Grigri, Silent Partner, Soloist, Clove Hitch, etc.). I am currently in the development phase so I believe that if I like one device less than another, it is probably because I do not use it enough. Makes sense?
Yann great video!! Where exactly is this route? I live down in Baja Mexico but where I always go is out in El Tajo, near Tecate, over 100 routes in that area... If you're interested in checking those out let me know maybe we can go out there once all this Quarantine is over with
Thanks Luis! As you may have seen in the video, I felt like checking the sound of some flakes here and there. But overall, it was pretty good quality rock. The bolts inspired confidence too!! It is not the best rock I have seen, but not the worst by any mean...
How did you shoot the video for this? I'm guessing you did the Survivorman, doubling back thing, where you have to climb the route 2 or 3 times to place the camera, downclimb (or rapp) and clean, retrieve gear below, and then reclimb the route when everything was in place to make it look like a clean climb again?
Yess. At the very end of the video you see me downclimb... That's what I did for every shoot: I climbed to setup camera, then downclimbed and reclimbed clean. I only rappelled when I was filming "upward" to retrieve the camera. :-) Thanks for the comment!
Eric Moss I rapped with single 70m rope. The rope hung behind a small flake 4m from the end. I decided that pulling hard on rope to retrieve it would break the flake. It worked! But... Core shot!! My rope is now 66m...
Fair Juca You could say that.. Don’t forget my brain, the rope, other knots, bolts, my climbing ability, the fact that the Revo is modified, the use of screamers, my mastery of this specific system, the understanding of the failure modes of the device, the link between the Revo and harness, me not using the belay loop, etc!!! Thanks for the comment!!! Rope soloing has to be the right balance between safety and efficiency: just like any climbing situation!!! What do ou think?
Bonjour Yann! Jsuis curieux de comprendre un peu mieux ta transition a la fin du pitch 1. Cest difficile a savoir quel brin est lequel sur le video - quel brin as tu clove hitch a ce point stp? et sagissait til dun relais 1 la ou tu continue vers le 2 ? merci de preciser - jai LRS ds le passe avec silent partner et viens de recevoir mon revo (plus petit que jpensais!) - jvais le modifier et une derniere question, mettre un p'tit maillon catastrophe autour de la corde...naurais-tu pas peur que le frottement lors dune chute entraine le maillon a monter et a venir unlocker le revo en le cognant ? Jvais pratiquer en moquage mais je pense que jvais opter pour avoir de moyen cache loop sur un microtrax (ainsi je suis ds la corder advenant le pire). Microtrax on a sling to master points harness and clip on gear loop too ...
Great question! Technically, I do have a backup knot at the mid-point in the rope so I do have a knot somewhere... I opted for simplicity because I trusted that I didn't fall 99% and I trust the Revo would have caught 99.9% (the way I use it and with great precaution). That would put the odds of falling further to 1:100,000 . But then with the backup knot and luck, the odds I get "badly" hurt is maybe 50% so that reduces the odds somewhat... It is all risk management. There is no safety. Be careful out there! Do you think I am lunatic?
It was a 6 pitches 5.8 climb. The rope in a backpack increases the expanded energy on a pitch. Especially makes you heavy at the start of the pitch where the cruxes are often located. My trailing ropes did not catch on an flake so my decision of not having a rope in a backpack was a good one :-) . Also I am able to quickly re-stack the rope on a small ledge at any point: a huge advantage. I never lead with a backpack. I would consider it if there was WAY too many flakes to manage trailing ropes. Does that make sense to you?
@@mjd4124 No. The reason is that this is unneeded weight for my pitch. Better lead light! So I will get back to it when I rappel that pitch... Makes sense?
Since he is finally times with the Revo to climb on the route - glad to see. Most of the videos are with the Grigri. Personally, I've decided for the Revo,i am aware of the error possibilities.
Stay healthy and continue to have fun with video shooting,
Christian
If you never fall, the Revo can be good. My Revo show a lot of wear after relatively little climbing on it. Also you know about the repetitive unlock failure right? See ua-cam.com/video/BHkIcej8UxU/v-deo.html and ua-cam.com/video/tmnSkb7LWgk/v-deo.html
Fantastic, Yann! You did a beautiful and easy to follow video! We meet in Loreto, day or two before your hike!
Keep hiking and sharing! 👋😎❤️
James Becker cool man!! I am happy with the result too! Thanks :-)
Excellent video 👍🏻
Andy Wells thanks man!!!
This video's answer lots of my questions :)
Imagine the course ;-) !!! I am happy you learned something!! Make sure you understand the repetitive unlock failure mode if you ever intend to use the Revo as a rope solo device!!!
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing yes I am planning on climbing more Cornish granite sea cliff routes with my LRS Revo will keep you informed of how it is going I'm sure all will be good and will have many years to train this great LRS skill!
That route looks super fun.
Drew Chojnowski it was! Just a bit of loose holds that made it kind of exciting to say the least...
great video Yann 👍🏻
Strett Thanks man!!
great video Yann. I am trying to figure out your set up. it seems u using a WIld country revo with a back up loop tied to your belay loop through a clove hitch? also, what is purpose of the link you have attached to your harness just below the Revo on the live rope?
I believe the link below the Revo is at the start to anchor the rope on the lead bolts. Is that it? The full details of the systems, failure modes, what you need to take care of and how is in my online course: blissclimbing.com/en/online-courses/ Have you seen the repetitive unlock failure mode in the free videos on my youtube channel? That might be one of the important things to think about if you want to lead with the Revo...
Good climb, I'm starting rope solo, just top rope for now, one pitch. I'm just working out what works for safety, speed and simplicity. How do you like the Revo, as opposed to the Grigri? My Grigri works fine so far, in conjunction with the jumar and the pulley attached to that makes it easy to pull out the slack on the low side. I can attach my PAS to the jumar, but it gets caught up with the belay handle, sometimes.
I recommend neither the Revo or the Grigri for Top Rope Solo (TRS)! The Revo is for expert only AND you need to understand its failure modes before ATTEMPTING TRS. The grigri is simply not pleasant because of the friction and it can also fail! I suggest you look into other devices like the Micro Traxion and always use backups! Please have a look (and buy because it is the BEST!! ;-) my TRS online course here: blissclimbing.com/en/online-courses/
Hi Yann, do you like rope solo lead climbing with the revo more than with the silent partner? What is your favourite device for rope solo lead? What is the modification in the revo are you talking about in an comment?
All details for the systems, modifications, etc. are in the online courses here: blissclimbing.com/en/online-courses/ I should say that I currently do not have a favorite device. Each has pros and cons and failure modes. Because I want to continue improving my Lead Rope Solo (LRS) Online Course that covers all devices I judge "acceptable" for LRS, I have to use them all as much as possible (Revo, Eddy, Grigri, Silent Partner, Soloist, Clove Hitch, etc.). I am currently in the development phase so I believe that if I like one device less than another, it is probably because I do not use it enough. Makes sense?
Yann great video!! Where exactly is this route? I live down in Baja Mexico but where I always go is out in El Tajo, near Tecate, over 100 routes in that area... If you're interested in checking those out let me know maybe we can go out there once all this Quarantine is over with
Contact me by email if you want the exact parking spot. General info is here: www.mountainproject.com/route/114158879/lolita
nice done men, how was the quality of the rock?
Thanks Luis! As you may have seen in the video, I felt like checking the sound of some flakes here and there. But overall, it was pretty good quality rock. The bolts inspired confidence too!! It is not the best rock I have seen, but not the worst by any mean...
How did you shoot the video for this? I'm guessing you did the Survivorman, doubling back thing, where you have to climb the route 2 or 3 times to place the camera, downclimb (or rapp) and clean, retrieve gear below, and then reclimb the route when everything was in place to make it look like a clean climb again?
Yess. At the very end of the video you see me downclimb... That's what I did for every shoot: I climbed to setup camera, then downclimbed and reclimbed clean. I only rappelled when I was filming "upward" to retrieve the camera. :-) Thanks for the comment!
Bad ass
@@mjd4124 thanks!!
How did you get that core shot to your rope?
Eric Moss I rapped with single 70m rope. The rope hung behind a small flake 4m from the end. I decided that pulling hard on rope to retrieve it would break the flake. It worked! But... Core shot!! My rope is now 66m...
Nice Yann.
denis lejeune Thanks Denis!!!
Yann Great Video. Hope you enjoyed the climb. Are you still around Loreto?
james scheh I was in Baja for 2 months, 1 month in California, but now we are back in Quebec: COVID induced!!
Hi yan,. Is this the same Revo that you did the Revo drop test vs silent partner drop test with?
I believe they are different devices. A friend lended me a Revo for the testing. Then I bought one and modified it and climbed Lolita…
wha´ts the security system? a revo and a clove hitch? just it?
Fair Juca You could say that.. Don’t forget my brain, the rope, other knots, bolts, my climbing ability, the fact that the Revo is modified, the use of screamers, my mastery of this specific system, the understanding of the failure modes of the device, the link between the Revo and harness, me not using the belay loop, etc!!! Thanks for the comment!!! Rope soloing has to be the right balance between safety and efficiency: just like any climbing situation!!! What do ou think?
Bonjour Yann! Jsuis curieux de comprendre un peu mieux ta transition a la fin du pitch 1. Cest difficile a savoir quel brin est lequel sur le video - quel brin as tu clove hitch a ce point stp? et sagissait til dun relais 1 la ou tu continue vers le 2 ? merci de preciser - jai LRS ds le passe avec silent partner et viens de recevoir mon revo (plus petit que jpensais!) - jvais le modifier et une derniere question, mettre un p'tit maillon catastrophe autour de la corde...naurais-tu pas peur que le frottement lors dune chute entraine le maillon a monter et a venir unlocker le revo en le cognant ? Jvais pratiquer en moquage mais je pense que jvais opter pour avoir de moyen cache loop sur un microtrax (ainsi je suis ds la corder advenant le pire). Microtrax on a sling to master points harness and clip on gear loop too ...
i can't find the doc you have on your course on quick transition flips in baya i think it was?
Je vois que tu as le cours! Es-tu sur le groupe Facebook réservé aux acheteurs du cours? Peux-tu me contacter par Facebook pour que je t’invites?
Yann, we are trying to hit this crag and those around Loredo this week. How do we contact you?
docs.google.com/document/d/1WoIETYqJzBB2iQVJSwEpe_bUoKI3J2VvmjHDBwcHHAA/edit?usp=sharing
Why did you choose not to use backup knots?
Great question! Technically, I do have a backup knot at the mid-point in the rope so I do have a knot somewhere... I opted for simplicity because I trusted that I didn't fall 99% and I trust the Revo would have caught 99.9% (the way I use it and with great precaution). That would put the odds of falling further to 1:100,000 . But then with the backup knot and luck, the odds I get "badly" hurt is maybe 50% so that reduces the odds somewhat... It is all risk management. There is no safety. Be careful out there! Do you think I am lunatic?
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing That is what I thought. I just wondered when you choose to use them and when to not knot.
What difficulty is this? Also, why not carry the rope in a backpack?
It was a 6 pitches 5.8 climb. The rope in a backpack increases the expanded energy on a pitch. Especially makes you heavy at the start of the pitch where the cruxes are often located. My trailing ropes did not catch on an flake so my decision of not having a rope in a backpack was a good one :-) . Also I am able to quickly re-stack the rope on a small ledge at any point: a huge advantage. I never lead with a backpack. I would consider it if there was WAY too many flakes to manage trailing ropes. Does that make sense to you?
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing it does Yann, thanks
Je crois que oui mais jsuis pas sûr si le group FB est le réserve au cours au nom - peux tu m’inviter de ton côté? Jsuis pas un expert FB ;0)
C’est quoi ton nom complet en vrai et sur Facebook?
Quiz: Why do you think I clip my water bottle at 9:26 and 11:42?
You're going to climb right back to it after you get the shot?
@@mjd4124 No. The reason is that this is unneeded weight for my pitch. Better lead light! So I will get back to it when I rappel that pitch... Makes sense?