I'm confused here you say it uses s2000 rotors but on their site it says you have to get tl type s rotors which are 310mm instead of the factory 300mm rotors.
How’s it going. I don’t know if you could help but what could prevent injectors from firing? My k24 Rsx. Stock engine. Stock injectors on kpro v4 will start up fine and I can drive it around fine but once i let it idle for a while it will begin to go rich and lean. The datalog shows it as a wave and eventually it will stall. When I try to restart it , it just starts for one second at 1000rpm and die. I have no codes. Fuel pressure is at 40 when priming. I think my Injectors stop firing because the car goes really Lean 25+ as it starts stalling. I spray from brake clean and it starts for a bit longer. It will eventually start once it cools down. I also changed crank sensor, map, cam sensors, iacv, tps. Thank for any help
@@LHTPerformance at idle they were both at 1% then while still at idle it went a bit lean 15:17 and S trim went to 2% L trim stayed at 1%. 2 seconds later it went really rich (11:54) and s trim went negative to -19% gradually. AF went lean at that point and it stalled. I can send the datalog from when it happened. I already changed tps, crank sensor, cam sensors, iacv, map, coils, I ended up spraying a bit of carb cleaner and it started for a bit longer (1-2 seconds). The car was running great for 2 years. No issues. I only drove it once during summer and it had an iacv issue due to a vacuum leak but I fixed it and let it sit again until I drove it 2 weeks ago. All I changed was the battery. I also changed the pump and it didn’t help start it. It will run normal when it’s cold. I can even drive around for a bit but I stop and let it idle or try to move in first it will stall. Datalogs show it going super lean once it begins to stall.
Hi, are there any problems driving with the brake calipers mounted with the bleeder screw at the top and therefore the large piston at the bottom? Since they have asymmetrical pistons, the one with a small diameter must be facing downwards.... I don't make trackday, can there be problems with braking and brake pad wear when driving on the road? Thanks
The bleeder screw should be pointing upwards to bleed out the air. Once you have the system bled, you can essentially remove the caliper and flip it over. Something common with rear caliper upgrades.
@@njshift ahhhh i must have missed that - thank you. So the TL-S calipers have larger pads, but they still fit the stock S2k rotors. That makes sense, thank you again.
I have problem I’m fixing a 99 civic to perfect oem condition and for some reason only in 1st gear it shakes bad 2-5 work perfectly I’ve put a good amount of new parts on it already any help greatly appreciated
Such a throwback edm song! Great big brake upgrade on the s2000!
Gotta love BIG brake calipers 😍
Can someone provide part number for the brembo calipers?
John or George, you guys wouldn’t happen to know the specs on those front wheels would you? Offset to clear those TL Brembos. TIA.
I'm confused here you say it uses s2000 rotors but on their site it says you have to get tl type s rotors which are 310mm instead of the factory 300mm rotors.
I’m looking for a powder coater for my calipers
How’s it going. I don’t know if you could help but what could prevent injectors from firing? My k24 Rsx. Stock engine. Stock injectors on kpro v4 will start up fine and I can drive it around fine but once i let it idle for a while it will begin to go rich and lean. The datalog shows it as a wave and eventually it will stall. When I try to restart it , it just starts for one second at 1000rpm and die. I have no codes. Fuel pressure is at 40 when priming. I think my Injectors stop firing because the car goes really Lean 25+ as it starts stalling. I spray from brake clean and it starts for a bit longer. It will eventually start once it cools down. I also changed crank sensor, map, cam sensors, iacv, tps. Thank for any help
What are the fuel trims doing when this happens ?
@@LHTPerformance at idle they were both at 1% then while still at idle it went a bit lean 15:17 and S trim went to 2% L trim stayed at 1%. 2 seconds later it went really rich (11:54) and s trim went negative to -19% gradually. AF went lean at that point and it stalled.
I can send the datalog from when it happened. I already changed tps, crank sensor, cam sensors, iacv, map, coils, I ended up spraying a bit of carb cleaner and it started for a bit longer (1-2 seconds).
The car was running great for 2 years. No issues. I only drove it once during summer and it had an iacv issue due to a vacuum leak but I fixed it and let it sit again until I drove it 2 weeks ago. All I changed was the battery. I also changed the pump and it didn’t help start it.
It will run normal when it’s cold. I can even drive around for a bit but I stop and let it idle or try to move in first it will stall. Datalogs show it going super lean once it begins to stall.
It sounds like the Air / Fuel sensor is bad. Try and put it into open loop and turn the sensor off. See if it holds
@@LHTPerformance will do. Thank you
@@LHTPerformance I put it on open loop after it stalled. But it still wouldn’t start.
Do you get brake bias with larger calipers in front? If so is it 'noticeable'?
Any chance those calipers fit with stock ‘04 wheels? I’m guessing not but 🤷♂️
I wouldn’t think so. They need more clearance
They need about 2” off of the face of the rotor.
Hi, are there any problems driving with the brake calipers mounted with the bleeder screw at the top and therefore the large piston at the bottom? Since they have asymmetrical pistons, the one with a small diameter must be facing downwards....
I don't make trackday, can there be problems with braking and brake pad wear when driving on the road?
Thanks
The bleeder screw should be pointing upwards to bleed out the air. Once you have the system bled, you can essentially remove the caliper and flip it over. Something common with rear caliper upgrades.
@@LHTPerformance thanks.... Can you confirm me that it is necessary to mill the calipers ear by 7mm using s2000 brake discs?
@@frankieitaly86 The kit we had was supplied by the customer. We didn’t change anything
@@LHTPerformance OK thank you
Do you know what spacers do I need to install to have the calipers installed with stock AP2 V1 wheels?
I believe you need 15mm for spoon calipers. I would check with the vender you buy the calipers from to be sure.
Do you need to upgrade the brake master cylinder to provide more power to brakes?
No. But it would help if a larger option is available
The Spoon calipers use OEM S2000 pads, so the pad area doesn't change. Did George mean something else?
I understood it as the Spoon calipers have less brake pad area than the TL-S Brembo’s.
@@njshift ahhhh i must have missed that - thank you. So the TL-S calipers have larger pads, but they still fit the stock S2k rotors. That makes sense, thank you again.
Correct. More contact area with these calipers and pads with S2000 rotor
Wheels setup info? please
The stickers are wrong on the CE28s. Yikes.
Enjoyed the music on this video 👍
Hey LHT!!! Are you heading to the Dragon for DFR? If you are, I’ll make sure my AP1 and I say hi!
We’ll be with the guy at Classic Hondas on the Dragon October 7-8th
I'm looking at 6 pod wilwood for my gx460, was told get stickier tires and high friction pads haha
Seriously lol
3 seconds into video 1st thing i notice is the crooked emblem, ouch
Did AB powder coating close up shop?
I follow them on IG and noticed they have a new name now.
They closed. They sold the name
@@LHTPerformance*OK then. Was wondering what happened.*
Oh no more AB Powder Coating
I have problem I’m fixing a 99 civic to perfect oem condition and for some reason only in 1st gear it shakes bad 2-5 work perfectly I’ve put a good amount of new parts on it already any help greatly appreciated
If they're fast you will still crack rotors
Stop with the music