As a carpenter/carver/woodworker, I have always stripped my wood hammers, used a small little torch and melted pure bee wax onto my handles, when I started blacksmithing with a new hammer, i tried using linseed oil but got a blister, I restripped it, went back to bee wax and haven't had a problem since. Plus I find I get a little extra grip. The only thing with bee wax is you have to add more every once and awhile.
John, the thinner part of the handle just behind the head is of a smaller diameter to allow the handle to flex slightly on impact. This absorbs some of the energy that would otherwise be transmitted to your hand and arm and is really important in reducing fatigue. This part of most modern handles is too fat and needs to be slimed down - need to balance flexibility and tensile strength. The other critical dimensions are the diameter where you hold it to fit your grip, the length to acieve a good balance for your hitting style and the shape (oval or squarish) where you hold it so you can index your hammer in your hand so you can strike at the angle you want. Everyone is different - play around until it feels right for you.
This is one of those issues that in hindsight is a "duh". Don't know why I didn't think of this myself as I've never been happy with the handles on the cheap hammers I got. One of these days I'm going to get a hand forged hammer made by a blacksmith for blacksmiths, but they're not cheap. Anyway, thanks again, John. Great video, great tip.
This helped so much! I just got a new hammer, almost identical to the hammer you're workin on here. I didn’t expect because my hands are very large, but I started to have hand pain when using this hammer. Your information helps and I'm going to give it a try.
I guess I’m lucky since I have really big hands. Hammers normally fit my hands pretty well. I have trouble finding gloves to fit my hands bc they are so big 😂.
I am very picky about my hammer handles. I bought one of the peddinghaus hammers and I've used it maybe a total of 2 hours since I've had it. Haven't had time to work the handle down how I like them. You're right...there's half a tree on that hammer! I like to toast my handles lightly, sand off the char then soak it in linseed oil. After a few days of drying I apply a beeswax/linseed oil/turpentine mix and melt it in with a heat gun. Wipe off and its ready to use.
I am picky too. I bought 2 hammers from a blacksmith who equiped them with square handles. Well it is very clear by the feel if the head is square to the work. Within a few short hours though, I took those handles clean off. They were too narrow to shave down and didn't feel right. I went to the hardware store and bought two framing handles. I had to shape them, sand them, and i used linseed oil. I myself see no reason to blacken my handles. Most handles I find are too thin but the ones from the hardware store are too big, but it leaves me with room to sand them down. Later I may fine tune them.
I today bought a swedish hammer at blacksmith depot and i now need to shape the handle and dress the head. I also got a new book which goes in detail on how to do these procedures
The round wedges are removable with a bolt extractor of the right diameter, but you do still end up destroying the wood inside the wedge, so it still has to be jumped down if you want to save the handle to use again.
I'm on a very tight budget, so I've been finding old worn out and rusty hammers and hammer heads. I cleaned up the hammer heads on the wire wheel and hung them on a new handle that I paid $2.50 for at a flea market. I burned the handles with a torch and put Boiled Linseed Oil on the whole thing. They look great and the heads haven't rusted yet. I used a wax on two hammers and they already rusted again. I'll redo them soon. Might help if I build the barn doors to keep the rain out. Another good tool to use for shaping handles is a spokeshave, witch I don't have yet. I'm planning to someday have everything I need to make my own handles for hammers and axes. But for now I'll modify the store bought handles the way you did. Thanks for another great video. I never would've thought to use a rasp for shaping handles. Thanks again.
Couldn't agree more! I bought a Roughneck ball peine hammer with a fibreglass handle a few years ago, I didn't use it much until i cut the handle off and made a wooden one to my hand! It went from being nearly useless to one of my favorite hammers!! Thanks for the great videos, regards, Matthew
I have a supplier near me that sells handles that need very little modification to fit my hand comfortably and it’s great. But I’m never afraid to modify the club of a handle most come with
John, in re. antifreeze, it works great and I use it on all the fitted heads. It doesn't dry out and you can always soak the head again. I use a combo boiled linseed and paint thinner on the gripped portion.
Nice video. I prefer a slightly rectangular profile with the corners rounded on the the handles I make then burnish , steel wool and linseed. This profile gives me an index as to how my hammer is in my hand relative to the head. Plus I make mine thinner towards the head. As a guy said earlier, varnish n paint create heat n blisters. Just my thoughts. Nice work😎
my favorite hammer has 6 finger grooves in the bottom [face side] and 4 shallower grooves in the top starting about 1 inch from the end. 35 yrs of beating with it and half a dozen handles
There is a product that is sold at woodworking stores that is used to fix loose chair legs. Its called ChaiRX. It is supposed to swell the wood and lock the joint. Just a thought.
In Europe we have "fat" handles because it is expected that they are customized. The factory can not do that for you. In case of a team, it is made a bit more slim/generic.
Thanks John, I am making a new handle for my hammer right now. I have fought with the old one long enough! I put off changing it because it is so darn comfortable.
Another good one John. I know what you mean about that tennis elbow. Once you have it it is hard to get rid of. I got a set of those hammers with clubs for handles as a gift. I will be whittling away at them after work today
I also like a thinner handle. I like a handle that is straight with no swell. I also like longer handles for 2lb to 4lb I like a handle between 15 and 16 inches.
I have a Peddinghaus hammer. I love it, but I've found that I keep a death grip on it when I swing it. Understand that I've never had a teacher and I'm learning things the hard way. I try to loosen up, but invariably I tighten my grip again. So now I see that the problem may be in the handle size. Hmm, it's time to work on that handle it seems.
Great short video John .Im a thin handle person too, small stubby hands. I try to soak my Handles before heading them seams to be less shrinkage. thanks for sharing
Will be interested in seeing the blacksmith elbow video soon, as this condition severely limits my ability to hammer at the anvil. Am wearing one of those arm bands that I purchased recently at a sporting goods store (not Dicks ), and it seems to relieve the soreness. I continue to work every day in the shop on projects but have to limit my hammering. Hoping to hear other solutions that may help, as I am eager to do some smithing without aggravating the condition.
Not something for health & safety, but... put a grinder with a heavy twist-wire brush in a vice, then WEARING GLOVES stroke the handle up & down across the brush's edge, you can take off more or less according to how firmly you do it. It allows you to follow / make contours, needs sanding AROUND after.
Great eduction once again John. Personaly I like a slim hammer shaft that is comfy and gives a good balance.. Just wondering if it would be a practical project to Twist a Cross Peen into a Diagonal Peen. Did you ever try ?
Hello John. I'm a new subscriber to your channel here and I've been looking around for blacksmith to follow and I like work I've seen from your channel and the way you explain stuff works for me. I'm sure you're a busy guy but if you get around to reading this I've got to draw a knife that's been used pretty heavy. I was wondering if you have a straightened one out. If its possible/ worth it? Unfortunately you can't post pictures on here. Anyways looking forward to picking up some tips and checking out what you do 🔨.
The benefit of soaking a hammer handle in antifreeze is that the antifreeze won't evaporate, meaning that of it gets tight, it shouldn't come loose unless you somehow crush the wood fibers in the eye,
Cory Goff + I don’t know why people say that, antifreeze is glycol alcohol and it evaporates twice as fast as water. Linseed oil is the only way to go!
One note on wood handles, when purchasing a handle, the grain should be tight and parallel with the head of the hammer for strength. I have made a living with a hammer for over 40 years. Also, be careful with linseed oil, on any rag, spontaneous combustion is a very real and likely possibility.🔥
thank you you have a lot of good advise, what do you think of bees wax for handle finishing? my thoughts are the wax isn't a slippery as the oils.. ?? thanks again ! keep having fun..
John, there is a commercial swelling agent sold. It is made from glycol. AKA antifreeze. Called Swell Lock. It's for furniture makers and repair of wood items. I use it. I also like linseed oil on my handles. I often darken them a bit with a torch. Not black. But darkened some. While hot, I soak it in the linseed oil. I too prefer a smaller handle. I have never tried the rectangular shape. That is supposed to be the best, so they say. But..... who is they and why are they self proclaimed experts? I also have never tried the handles with the knobs. There is a knob about four or so inches from the head. A skinny/narrow handle with a knob. Weird. No thanks. I held a few and the knob is what you grip.
I was given a hammer that had a plastic handle and i dislike the feel and id like to put a wood handle on it. How would i go about removing the fiberglass without wasting effort?
John, when you're sitting at the work bench there is a tool hanging on a bracket over your right shoulder. is the bracket 'forge made'? if so could you do a video on how you made that?
What is it that makes for a comfortable handle... I have been swinging a hammer a couple years, I have injured my elbow as you've described not knowing it's cause... thought I was over gripping it, now I wonder if it's because my handle isn't fitting my hand right... what should I be looking for in my grip and my handle... I know it's personal, but if you don't have a proper starting point, you risk hurting yourself...
As you say it is mostly personal preference. when your fingers are wrapped around the portion of the handle you use the most they should almost touch the heel of your hand. Don't use to heavy of a hammer, loose grip, keep your thumb and index finger off the top of the handle. a thinner neck up near the head helps reduce impact and vibration and proper anvil height prevents over extension.
Thanks John that was helpful, on another point, how do you know when the right grip is....I have people say something about the fingers not meeting of if they do that's no good. Bit confused on this. what is your opinion.? I have seen people measure too by laying the hammer on the arm, and seeing if it reached from crook in arm where the elbow is to the tips of fingers, what do you say about that point of view.???
I haven't used any of them and don't know anything about Black Gum. I think Pecan is closely related to Hickory, so It should be a good handle wood. I have always though that cherry is a bit soft, bit probably OK for smaller tools and used quite often for turning tools.
I was taught to cut with the draw knife bevel down. Spoke shaves and planes cut bevel down (mostly) and it lets you make a scoop in and out cut, particularly in concave situations. I rarely see anyone on UA-cam do it this way though.
I have several draw knives, some are designed one way and some the other. I agree that for deep curves bevel down is better. This video certainly wasn't meant as how to use a draw knife instruction.
As a carpenter/carver/woodworker, I have always stripped my wood hammers, used a small little torch and melted pure bee wax onto my handles, when I started blacksmithing with a new hammer, i tried using linseed oil but got a blister, I restripped it, went back to bee wax and haven't had a problem since. Plus I find I get a little extra grip. The only thing with bee wax is you have to add more every once and awhile.
John, the thinner part of the handle just behind the head is of a smaller diameter to allow the handle to flex slightly on impact. This absorbs some of the energy that would otherwise be transmitted to your hand and arm and is really important in reducing fatigue. This part of most modern handles is too fat and needs to be slimed down - need to balance flexibility and tensile strength. The other critical dimensions are the diameter where you hold it to fit your grip, the length to acieve a good balance for your hitting style and the shape (oval or squarish) where you hold it so you can index your hammer in your hand so you can strike at the angle you want. Everyone is different - play around until it feels right for you.
correct, I agree and hoped the video got at least some of that message across.
In the old days when I was nailing on sheetrock, we would break the old thick coke bottles and take a piece to scrape shape our handles.
This is one of those issues that in hindsight is a "duh". Don't know why I didn't think of this myself as I've never been happy with the handles on the cheap hammers I got. One of these days I'm going to get a hand forged hammer made by a blacksmith for blacksmiths, but they're not cheap. Anyway, thanks again, John. Great video, great tip.
I highly recommend Finin Liam Christies hammers, they are absolutely amazing and they feel great.
This helped so much! I just got a new hammer, almost identical to the hammer you're workin on here. I didn’t expect because my hands are very large, but I started to have hand pain when using this hammer. Your information helps and I'm going to give it a try.
Glad I could help!
I guess I’m lucky since I have really big hands. Hammers normally fit my hands pretty well. I have trouble finding gloves to fit my hands bc they are so big 😂.
I am very picky about my hammer handles. I bought one of the peddinghaus hammers and I've used it maybe a total of 2 hours since I've had it. Haven't had time to work the handle down how I like them. You're right...there's half a tree on that hammer! I like to toast my handles lightly, sand off the char then soak it in linseed oil. After a few days of drying I apply a beeswax/linseed oil/turpentine mix and melt it in with a heat gun. Wipe off and its ready to use.
I am picky too. I bought 2 hammers from a blacksmith who equiped them with square handles. Well it is very clear by the feel if the head is square to the work. Within a few short hours though, I took those handles clean off. They were too narrow to shave down and didn't feel right. I went to the hardware store and bought two framing handles. I had to shape them, sand them, and i used linseed oil. I myself see no reason to blacken my handles. Most handles I find are too thin but the ones from the hardware store are too big, but it leaves me with room to sand them down. Later I may fine tune them.
I see a place for a shaving horse plus drawknife. There seems to be a good relationship opportunity between the metalworker and the woodworker :)
I today bought a swedish hammer at blacksmith depot and i now need to shape the handle and dress the head. I also got a new book which goes in detail on how to do these procedures
The round wedges are removable with a bolt extractor of the right diameter, but you do still end up destroying the wood inside the wedge, so it still has to be jumped down if you want to save the handle to use again.
Great tip.
I'm on a very tight budget, so I've been finding old worn out and rusty hammers and hammer heads. I cleaned up the hammer heads on the wire wheel and hung them on a new handle that I paid $2.50 for at a flea market. I burned the handles with a torch and put Boiled Linseed Oil on the whole thing. They look great and the heads haven't rusted yet. I used a wax on two hammers and they already rusted again. I'll redo them soon. Might help if I build the barn doors to keep the rain out. Another good tool to use for shaping handles is a spokeshave, witch I don't have yet. I'm planning to someday have everything I need to make my own handles for hammers and axes. But for now I'll modify the store bought handles the way you did. Thanks for another great video. I never would've thought to use a rasp for shaping handles. Thanks again.
Its amazing how many old rusty hammers are out there that are just in need of a little clean up and re hanging
Agree linseed oil.
120 grit is done sanding
Thanks John
Couldn't agree more! I bought a Roughneck ball peine hammer with a fibreglass handle a few years ago, I didn't use it much until i cut the handle off and made a wooden one to my hand! It went from being nearly useless to one of my favorite hammers!! Thanks for the great videos, regards, Matthew
I have a supplier near me that sells handles that need very little modification to fit my hand comfortably and it’s great. But I’m never afraid to modify the club of a handle most come with
John, in re. antifreeze, it works great and I use it on all the fitted heads. It doesn't dry out and you can always soak the head again. I use a combo boiled linseed and paint thinner on the gripped portion.
Nice video. I prefer a slightly rectangular profile with the corners rounded on the the handles I make then burnish , steel wool and linseed. This profile gives me an index as to how my hammer is in my hand relative to the head. Plus I make mine thinner towards the head. As a guy said earlier, varnish n paint create heat n blisters. Just my thoughts. Nice work😎
my favorite hammer has 6 finger grooves in the bottom [face side] and 4 shallower grooves in the top starting about 1 inch from the end. 35 yrs of beating with it and half a dozen handles
There is a product that is sold at woodworking stores that is used to fix loose chair legs. Its called ChaiRX. It is supposed to swell the wood and lock the joint. Just a thought.
Good video thanks
In Europe we have "fat" handles because it is expected that they are customized. The factory can not do that for you. In case of a team, it is made a bit more slim/generic.
Thanks John, I am making a new handle for my hammer right now. I have fought with the old one long enough! I put off changing it because it is so darn comfortable.
Another good one John. I know what you mean about that tennis elbow. Once you have it it is hard to get rid of. I got a set of those hammers with clubs for handles as a gift. I will be whittling away at them after work today
Excellent shirt
I was going to suggest hammer handles for a quick video subject this afternoon.
I also like a thinner handle. I like a handle that is straight with no swell. I also like longer handles for 2lb to 4lb I like a handle between 15 and 16 inches.
I have a Peddinghaus hammer. I love it, but I've found that I keep a death grip on it when I swing it. Understand that I've never had a teacher and I'm learning things the hard way. I try to loosen up, but invariably I tighten my grip again. So now I see that the problem may be in the handle size. Hmm, it's time to work on that handle it seems.
Their hammers are great it's just the handle size that seems off.
Great short video John .Im a thin handle person too, small stubby hands. I try to soak my Handles before heading them seams to be less shrinkage. thanks for sharing
Thanks for the video....
Thanks i get the general idea
I just bought this EXACT same peddinghaus hammer, loved this video. THANKS!
Hey John very good can't believe how informative you are.👍
Thanks
Will be interested in seeing the blacksmith elbow video soon, as this condition severely limits my ability to hammer at the anvil. Am wearing one of those arm bands that I purchased recently at a sporting goods store (not Dicks ), and it seems to relieve the soreness. I continue to work every day in the shop on projects but have to limit my hammering.
Hoping to hear other solutions that may help, as I am eager to do some smithing without aggravating the condition.
I will try to come up with a way to cover it that isn't just an untrained guy giving out medical advice.
I definitely prefer thinner handles than most hammers have.
This video was very helpfull thank you
Not something for health & safety, but... put a grinder with a heavy twist-wire brush in a vice, then WEARING GLOVES stroke the handle up & down across the brush's edge, you can take off more or less according to how firmly you do it. It allows you to follow / make contours, needs sanding AROUND after.
Some good tips here, thanks for sharing 👍
Great eduction once again John. Personaly I like a slim hammer shaft that is comfy and gives a good balance.. Just wondering if it would be a practical project to Twist a Cross Peen into a Diagonal Peen. Did you ever try ?
It would be easier to forge a new hammer than trying to tist such a large cross section in such a short space
Hello John. I'm a new subscriber to your channel here and I've been looking around for blacksmith to follow and I like work I've seen from your channel and the way you explain stuff works for me. I'm sure you're a busy guy but if you get around to reading this I've got to draw a knife that's been used pretty heavy. I was wondering if you have a straightened one out. If its possible/ worth it? Unfortunately you can't post pictures on here. Anyways looking forward to picking up some tips and checking out what you do 🔨.
I haven't. The big issue will be re hardening and tempering without knowing what the tool was made from.
The benefit of soaking a hammer handle in antifreeze is that the antifreeze won't evaporate, meaning that of it gets tight, it shouldn't come loose unless you somehow crush the wood fibers in the eye,
Cory Goff + I don’t know why people say that, antifreeze is glycol alcohol and it evaporates twice as fast as water. Linseed oil is the only way to go!
my favourite hammer's handle has just started to slip the head. Sounds like I better get used to the idea of another handle!
Might be worth a soak in oil
yeah, will give it a try!
One note on wood handles, when purchasing a handle, the grain should be tight and parallel with the head of the hammer for strength. I have made a living with a hammer for over 40 years. Also, be careful with linseed oil, on any rag, spontaneous combustion is a very real and likely possibility.🔥
The varnish and paint etc. can also cause blisters on your hands over time
good info. thx
antifreeze soaks up like water but dont dry out
thank you you have a lot of good advise, what do you think of bees wax for handle finishing?
my thoughts are the wax isn't a slippery as the oils.. ?? thanks again ! keep having fun..
Have you ever done a draw knife forging video? I sand the wax off all my hammer handles and then I burn them with a torch then I linseed oil them
I haven't made a draw knife video. Peter Ross has one for sale through Popular Woodworking
John, there is a commercial swelling agent sold. It is made from glycol. AKA antifreeze. Called Swell Lock. It's for furniture makers and repair of wood items. I use it. I also like linseed oil on my handles. I often darken them a bit with a torch. Not black. But darkened some. While hot, I soak it in the linseed oil.
I too prefer a smaller handle. I have never tried the rectangular shape. That is supposed to be the best, so they say. But..... who is they and why are they self proclaimed experts? I also have never tried the handles with the knobs. There is a knob about four or so inches from the head. A skinny/narrow handle with a knob.
Weird. No thanks. I held a few and the knob is what you grip.
I was given a hammer that had a plastic handle and i dislike the feel and id like to put a wood handle on it. How would i go about removing the fiberglass without wasting effort?
Hi John, do you prefer a more round handle vs a handle with flat (kind of octagonal shape)?
Most of my handles are rounded however I do like the octagon handle, they are easy to grip
John, when you're sitting at the work bench there is a tool hanging on a bracket over your right shoulder. is the bracket 'forge made'? if so could you do a video on how you made that?
I think you are referring to the Foredom flex shaft. Yes, the arm it hangs on is shop made. Good video idea,I'll add it to the list.
thank you, Sir
What is it that makes for a comfortable handle... I have been swinging a hammer a couple years, I have injured my elbow as you've described not knowing it's cause... thought I was over gripping it, now I wonder if it's because my handle isn't fitting my hand right... what should I be looking for in my grip and my handle... I know it's personal, but if you don't have a proper starting point, you risk hurting yourself...
As you say it is mostly personal preference. when your fingers are wrapped around the portion of the handle you use the most they should almost touch the heel of your hand. Don't use to heavy of a hammer, loose grip, keep your thumb and index finger off the top of the handle. a thinner neck up near the head helps reduce impact and vibration and proper anvil height prevents over extension.
Thanks John that was helpful, on another point, how do you know when the right grip is....I have people say something about the fingers not meeting of if they do that's no good. Bit confused on this. what is your opinion.? I have seen people measure too by laying the hammer on the arm, and seeing if it reached from crook in arm where the elbow is to the tips of fingers, what do you say about that point of view.???
I think there is a lot of personal preference. I'll have to compare the hammers i like the nest and see where they fall in those terms
Ok thanks John.
Antifreeze is for keeping the hammer head from rusting.
Do you know if black gum, pecan or cherry makes a good handle?
I haven't used any of them and don't know anything about Black Gum. I think Pecan is closely related to Hickory, so It should be a good handle wood. I have always though that cherry is a bit soft, bit probably OK for smaller tools and used quite often for turning tools.
Coolant/anti freeze doesnt eveporate
I was taught to cut with the draw knife bevel down.
Spoke shaves and planes cut bevel down (mostly) and it lets you make a scoop in and out cut, particularly in concave situations.
I rarely see anyone on UA-cam do it this way though.
I have several draw knives, some are designed one way and some the other. I agree that for deep curves bevel down is better. This video certainly wasn't meant as how to use a draw knife instruction.
This guy reminds me of Milton off the movie Office Space.
if you do this you lose the strengh of the handle