Very cool. I've never gotten into ferrules, but I'm wanting to. I can definitely see the advantages. Man, those 2/0 crimped connectors look rough. I would be concerned about lack of physical contact in the amp. Maybe not under normal use, but if you're pushing 200 to 300 amps through it, I'd be concerned. A thermal camera might be useful here. It looks like the best option is to use those black and red 1/0 ferrules and carefully thin out the insulation so it will fit. Maybe even add a dab of E6000 between the insulators to make sure it won't slide off. Then you know you'll be getting good contact in the connectors. I need to try this stuff out. Thanks.
I use the 3:1 shrink with the glue. It gives you a water tight seal. I wonder if just stripping the insulation back further on 1/0 cable (instead of carefully thinning it out) and using the heatshrink to hold it together would be quicker and easier. Again, I need to try these things out and see what works best. 👍
Yeah, idk but it seems better than when the set screw only contacts 1/2-3/4 of the strands. I don’t have a thermal camera. I wish I do though. Thanks Jason!
Making the best possible connection does help quite a bit. Using 100% copper wire power cable is the primary thing. I don't know of any stock OEM vehicle that has an electrical system to deliver full power to 2/00 guage cable without a voltage drop; if the current level is 300 -550 amps draw by the multiple subwoofer amplifiers. I remember a Chevy van audio installation only driver and passenger seats; as the rest of the van was completely used by a folded horn enclosure for 8 15" subwoofer, sealed small box design. It mounted 4 autocar diesel truck alternators wired in parallel configuration to feed the subwoofer amplifiers. Each subwoofer had it's own dedicated mono block amplifier dropped to 2 ohms each wiring. We used the biggest mono block Rockford fozgate made. The guy was a holy terror on the spl circuit. He smoked several alternators until he added 2 more alternators for a total of 6 alternators and 12 batteries in back to try to maintain 15 volts under load. He also blew subs like no tomorrow as well. Now days there are much better subwoofers that can handle 4 - 6 kw rms per driver. That guy spent a sizeable fortune on his spl monster van. He blew the windshield out several times and this was before the availability of remote control head units. So I understand he was inside the vehicle durring the contest. Good video as always; 73 and GOD bless Earnest k5ewm.
Looks like a worse problem fitting the 2/0 into the port than any issue with the bare 1/0 ferrule. Which I've been lucky enough not to have any pull out yet. Also, crimping the 2/0 you lose a ton of surface contact not retaining that round shape on bottom of the port mating surface.
In regard to you Skar wire comment in the description, I haven’t used 0ga but I do have 4ga Skar wire and measured with a micrometer it specs out almost exactly to the AWG spec chart, so it’s true 4 gauge and not “car audio” 4 gauge.
www.ebay.com/itm/285951509348?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=3DNDZInJRu2&sssrc=2051273&ssuid=3DNDZInJRu2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
www.ebay.com/itm/285953383482?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=3DNDZInJRu2&sssrc=2051273&ssuid=3DNDZInJRu2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I use the amp adapters and i love them!
@@Alan.Garcia01 yes, that’s a great solution
Very cool. I've never gotten into ferrules, but I'm wanting to. I can definitely see the advantages.
Man, those 2/0 crimped connectors look rough. I would be concerned about lack of physical contact in the amp. Maybe not under normal use, but if you're pushing 200 to 300 amps through it, I'd be concerned. A thermal camera might be useful here.
It looks like the best option is to use those black and red 1/0 ferrules and carefully thin out the insulation so it will fit. Maybe even add a dab of E6000 between the insulators to make sure it won't slide off. Then you know you'll be getting good contact in the connectors.
I need to try this stuff out.
Thanks.
I use the 3:1 shrink with the glue. It gives you a water tight seal.
I wonder if just stripping the insulation back further on 1/0 cable (instead of carefully thinning it out) and using the heatshrink to hold it together would be quicker and easier.
Again, I need to try these things out and see what works best. 👍
Yeah, idk but it seems better than when the set screw only contacts 1/2-3/4 of the strands. I don’t have a thermal camera. I wish I do though. Thanks Jason!
Do a video on how to crimp them. Thanks for the videos!!
@@crazyhorseracing6130 thanks for the idea! I really should’ve made that part of this video
@@stereomojo Thanks and I just ordered some 4 ga from Welsh Audio so that video will be helpful 😁
@@crazyhorseracing6130 sweet, thanks David! I’ll take them to the PO tomorrow.
@@stereomojo Sounds great!! Thanks again!
Making the best possible connection does help quite a bit. Using 100% copper wire power cable is the primary thing. I don't know of any stock OEM vehicle that has an electrical system to deliver full power to 2/00 guage cable without a voltage drop; if the current level is 300 -550 amps draw by the multiple subwoofer amplifiers. I remember a Chevy van audio installation only driver and passenger seats; as the rest of the van was completely used by a folded horn enclosure for 8 15" subwoofer, sealed small box design. It mounted 4 autocar diesel truck alternators wired in parallel configuration to feed the subwoofer amplifiers. Each subwoofer had it's own dedicated mono block amplifier dropped to 2 ohms each wiring. We used the biggest mono block Rockford fozgate made. The guy was a holy terror on the spl circuit. He smoked several alternators until he added 2 more alternators for a total of 6 alternators and 12 batteries in back to try to maintain 15 volts under load. He also blew subs like no tomorrow as well. Now days there are much better subwoofers that can handle 4 - 6 kw rms per driver. That guy spent a sizeable fortune on his spl monster van. He blew the windshield out several times and this was before the availability of remote control head units. So I understand he was inside the vehicle durring the contest. Good video as always; 73 and GOD bless Earnest k5ewm.
@@earnestmatlock9694 wow, that sounds like a serious system!! Thanks Earnest!
@@stereomojo thanks your welcome and yes that system took the phrase "over the top" to new volume levels. 73 Earnest k5ewm
I use copper tubing, crimp, and heat shrink.
@@Dingleberry1856 nice!
You're supposed to crimp the ferrules onto the wire with a ferrule crimp tool. It will not pull out when you do.
@@PSTRWES can you post a link to a 1/0 and 2/0 ferrule crimper?
Looks like a worse problem fitting the 2/0 into the port than any issue with the bare 1/0 ferrule. Which I've been lucky enough not to have any pull out yet. Also, crimping the 2/0 you lose a ton of surface contact not retaining that round shape on bottom of the port mating surface.
Yes, that’s definitely something to consider
What is the best size ferrule for a 4/0 Temco welding cable ?
@@JonesCoWoodworks I’m not sure, but it’s possible that the 2/0 might fit. If you can measure your cable, I’ll measure the 2/0 ferrule.
In regard to you Skar wire comment in the description, I haven’t used 0ga but I do have 4ga Skar wire and measured with a micrometer it specs out almost exactly to the AWG spec chart, so it’s true 4 gauge and not “car audio” 4 gauge.
@@Scotts229 yeah, I figure the Skar 1/0 is to spec as well.
Great info
@@marcovaldovinos5009 thanks Marco!