2017 Toyota Yaris iA stalls and no start diag
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- Опубліковано 7 вер 2024
- Customer complaint: No start at time and occasionally stalls.
Previous repair work: Don't know but we do know the Ford dealership sold the car and couldn't find the issue when the customer brought it back to them.
Spoilers below
Codes: u0100, u0115, u0121, u0131, u0151, B10E7, C1031
Key codes to focus on: B10E7 - Ignition 1 Relay (Failure Type 16)
Test to perform. Verify we have full battery voltage getting into and out of the IG1 relay and the IG1 fuses.
Test results: Main 200A fuse was good, power to the IG1 fuse was bad, tested at the relay input and had good power, tested at the relay output and power was bad. We had 12V going in and 1-3V coming out. If the relay was manipulated it would sometimes work and have good power output.
Cause: Failed IG relay
Correction: Replace the IG relay, clear memories and retest system.
You’re very kind to share your skill and knowledge! That whole world should thank you!!!
Thanks for this Radius. If can save one person the headache its worth it.
In the case of my car, the problem was not the relay itself but the relay's ground line being weaked ,
Thank you for your useful video and valuable information you said in this video,
Just replaced our starter and alternator on our 2016 Scion ia and it won't crank over. Dash lights come on and that amber light on the push button. We've tested the battery amp and new alternator with good readings. Been going though process of elimination and haven't been able to figure it out. So glad I found your video. Hoping this is it.
You should get a green light when stepping on brake.
Nice work, your thought process is 'dead on'. Thank You for sharing. I have this same model car. I'm going to remove and attempt to disassemble that relay and clean it's contacts just as PM. (No current issues with the car). I was automechanic for 25 years, even worked on SAAB for a while, so I have lots of electrical diag experience, lol.
Great job Chad. Good thing it acted up in your shop. Intermittents can be a real pain in the butt as we all know. 👍
I was dreading the car as soon as I saw the list of codes and found out it went to other shop with no solution. Ending up being a simple fix in the end.
do a follow-up video with a known good IG relay installed to show that there are no bad components after the relay.
ive got one for ya! Ive got a 2017 Toyota Yaris iA. we just recently had a snow storm. well after the snow melted, my DSC, SCBS, and my TPMS light has come one. Also, it take 3 or 4 times of stepping on my brake pedal before i get the green ignition light to come on the push button so i can start the car. And its all random. sometimes it starts just fine with no lights afterward, sometimes it takes a few brake pumps to start and the lights are on the entire ride. sometimes, one or 2 lights will go off while driving and then come back on later
It could be a faulty brake light switch or even brake light bulbs. If lights are coming on I would get a full system scan to find out what components are setting codes. Only after that would I start checking into each system for diagnosis.
Thank you for replying. I learned a lot.
Good video brother. Going to have a watch marathon and catch up on some videos
Nice video thanks for sharing 👍👍
No problem Josh. Thanks for stopping by and watching.
That was awesome... I really enjoyed your process 👍
Thank you. Have you seen any of these in training yet? I wasn’t sure if they have a stand alone class for the Mazda platform like they for the new Supra.
Thanks for this great video i have the same issue with the same type of car the differen on this is if i putted on neutral starte yest fine but don't start in park
Very interesting thanks for sharing
Another great one chad. I said i wouldn’t watch any you tube while we were in Mexico but I couldn’t wait lol. That was some good direction with little data. Awesome! You’re the man
Thanks Jay!!! Have a great trip.
Awesome work my friend 👍
Thank you 👍
Great job and thanks for sharing!
Research is mandatory on our modern cars. But it's kind of funny all that just for the end result. (I don't want to give it away for other viewers)
Just found out from the customer that he also took it to the Toyota dealer and they didn’t find it. They had it for two weeks. A few simple tests proved the failed part.
@@ThePracticalMechanic Wow.
@@wyattoneable what does that mean then? This car is no good then? ☹️
@@hurilux41 What does what mean? This was a year ago so I'm not sure what you are referring to.
@@wyattoneable I was just asking for clarification since the OP wasn’t clear to me hence my question. I know it old but I’m just that curious then
great video, I haven't ran into this problem yet. The most problems I have seen with these piles of junk are batteries and high pressure fuel pups
I think I’ve only had two of these come into the shop. Either they don’t break down often or they aren’t popular in my area. Thanks for watching Gera.
@@ThePracticalMechanic it gotta be the latter. The subcompact segment just aren’t popular enough for manufacture to continue hence this model is gone :(
I have a green wire snap on test light also and the plastic is doing the same as yours i replaced the wire already once
I tried replacing it again recently and it’s discontinued. I decided to modify the light and I installed a bigger bulb for more load. Now I just need to make a new cable.
Great diag Chad!
Thanks Mike.
how can i talk to you,i have almost same problem,bottom flash red but all my dash light turn on
Thank you sir
@thepracticalmechanic I'm really interested in that Oscope, what model are you using?
I have the pico scope 4423 4 channel scope. I wouldn’t mind a newer 8 channel scope but this one has served me well.
My Toyota Yaris ia 2017 check engine light keeps coming on. A mechanic checked it and it says it’s a p3 random miss fire. I took it to the Toyota mechanic too and they couldn’t find the issue for it. I’m not sure what else to do.
Hello, do you know where is the factory amplifier is located? I have no audio coming out of the radio but everything else works fine.
Whaddya know , I finally got a notification 😑
Day late and a dollar short. We’re glad you made either way Keith. 👍🏼👍🏼🔧🔧
@@ThePracticalMechanic AWESOME stuff ! And the fact that you spent more time in the research before laying a finger on anything is my favorite part 👍👍👍
Good one Chad. Way to go on the research before going to the vehicle to understand what's going on. That's key when your are not familiar with a particular vehicle or system. 👍🏻👍🏻
Great video, My Girlfriends car has the same issue and I am hoping this solves it. The intermittent starting definitely looks to be the same. However, She also started getting DSC Malfunction, TPMS malfunction and SCBS malfunction lights on the dash at the same time. These are intermittent as well. Do you know if this vehicle had any of those symptoms simultaneously?
I'm having the same problem with my Yaris, the button for the gear shifter would get stuck halfway and I noticed that's what prompted those same warning lights to come on. It's very random with those lights, sometimes they come on sometimes not or sometimes they'll pop up or go away after I drive for a bit. I haven't taken it in yet, do you still have the problem?
What diagnostics tool is that that you use for voltage reading ?
ahh, i see it's picoscope.
If you could show us a video of installing the rear loader that would be awesome!
I have the car in my bay right now to install the new relay. I'm not exactly sure what the rear loader is. if you let me know soon enough I will see if I can help you out while I still have the car.
Sure things it’s what connect wheel to wheel let’s just say the whole back of the car is removed it has nothing! And also thanks for replying you got yourself a new SUB!
👍🏼 I don’t have too much time with vehicle but if I get more repairs on this car in the future I’ll reply to this message and let you know. Thanks for stopping by. 🔧🔧🔧
No thank you! You are a gentlemen and a scholar
So it did fix the problem at the end? I have exactly the same problem. Please let me know
If you fixed the problem by changing the relay. thank you.
Car hasn’t had a problem since replacing the relay.
The Ford Siesta 😂🤣
Definitely a "sleeper" car 😴
Did the IG1 relay replacement fix the issues? I'm running into something similar with a 17 Yaris IA after reinstalling the car battery after letting it sit for a few months. Car starts and idles rough and cuts power after 2K rpms. It will shift gears.
The IG1 relay fixed the issue at the time. It just showed back up today for a similar issue but this time the relay for the injectors was failing when hot. We are replacing the injector relay and the fuel pump relay to be safe.
@Cristian Escobar I would check the battery. The flickering lights sounds like the charging system or the battery is failing. Perhaps the alternator or the belt was damaged in the accident.
Hi again. I did change the relay and did work but then started acting up again. Any other suggestions?
Thanks for your advice and time.
You may have a different issue than what I was running into or you may have a defective relay. Make sure there is no corrosion in the relay socket or fuse panel.
Hi Mario, I had a similar issue and it was the fuel pump relay, it's very cheap so it won't harm replacing it
What the part number for ig1
hi help me synchronize the pcm of my toyota yaris ia 2017 p5 engine please
That is not something I have tried. I think the process if different than the toyota process since it was made by Mazda.
I have one of those and mi car starts cold and after aprox a minute turn off and then doesn't start back again until a couple hours
There are four blue relays in the under hood fuse block. They seem to fail without warning. You could try swapping them to different locations and see if the problem changes. Or buy one new relay and switch it around one by one and see if it changes.
The relays are less than $20 from the Mazda dealer. Not sure how much from Toyota.
Are you in socal?
Southern Colorado
So SoCo? Lol, great video btw
1st 🙌👍