My car engine is leaking oil from the valve cover. Should I put a rag around the outside of the cover to collect the oil and let is drip off onto the ground ? (as in the Basement Systems Inc program) Should I put sealer around the outside of the cover to keep the oil from leaking? Or I could do it properly and replace the gasket. I worked with a contractor and asked him about just sealing and draining the inside, his answer was; we just spent $500 to insulate the walls, the water will come in a pack the insulation, rendering it useless. Every job we did the sealed the outside AND the inside of the walls. Makes sense......
So what happens under the vapor barrier? Water continues to come through the walls and into the drain. Is that an issue? Wouldn’t mold start growing behind the vapor barrier?
yes- especially with this type of vapor barrier- The only better type I can think of would be DMX wrap but obviously the best thing would be to prevent moisture from coming through at all but adding a barrier outsie. I am going to put up DMX Airgap for mine- I think the airflow should be enough to prevent mold
I have this system. Had to be installed 4 different times. The system that catches the water also catches sediments that will keep it clogged and overall unreliable. I'm fed up and pissed that this continue to happen.
I am looking for solutions for my basement and this is exactly what my thoughts were! My basement walls allow a lot of sediment through (even with an epoxy covering it) and they would just end up clogging this.
This system doesn’t work well because it’s placed on the foundation. System must b placed deeper (where the water is) next to the foundation. Also 4” pvc pipe with holes at the bottom, not the grey square garbage he is showing.
You're not supposed to trap moisture on your foundation walls, it will make it age quick, you need to install a dehumidifier so that the humidity lowes to under 60, then your walls will dry up. You must keep the dehumidifier on all the time. Unless you're planning to redo your whole fundación you don't have another option, you can't put anything to stop water from filtering your foundation, no matter what it is, it will push it off sooner or later. If you have a serious leak you need to dig the outside of the foundation and then apply some kind of rubberized impermeability material, but if it is serious enough it will still find its way in. I bet if you clean your gutters make sure you don't have water from the outside running inside, your problem will not be so deep. That alone would fix the biggest of it all, then the dehumidifier will deal the deal. You could install that drain system if your leak is big, and the sump pump. That will make your system really effective combine all three things. Outside water control Dehumidifier And your drain to sump pump system.
I'm so sorry that you're going through this! I understand the struggle and the frustration. I'm having an issue with a leaking basement, which has caused bowing in my foundation and a horizontal crack. What I'm currently doing is patching any exterior foundational cracks/openings from the exterior and directing the water away from the house, by angling the concrete foundation to slope away from the house to one specific point where all the water settles, and at that location, I'm digging a trench to slope downhill, and using a catch basin at the top of the hill to carry it away through the corrugated pipe, which is also angled downhill. Then, on the interior, I'll be using steel I beams in attempt to retain, and possibly correct the wall, depending on what I can afford materials wise. Then I'll be squeezing in either foundation concrete epoxy or polyurethane caulk into the cracks to seal it. I'm not sure if any of this would help in your situation, but it might be worth thinking about. I will be posting a video on my entire project once it's done. I hope things eventually work out for you. If it does, let us know what worked!
This fix only deals with water coming through the walls. this channel system looks to be installed just below the floor. What about the water on the outside of the wall? Wouldn't it be wiser to dig to the bottom of the footing to capture the water there and thus releasing the pressure on the walls? The reason the water is coming through the walls in the first place looks to be water looking for a place to go. If the water was allowed to flow down the exterior of the wall down to this channel then into the sump pump makes more sense to me. how is this a replacement for French drains?
I have a fieldstone basement wall. It only gets wet when it's raining. But I can't fix this from the outside because my house is 2 feet from the street! What are my options here?!
I have the same issue- my recommendation is to caulk all cracks outside pave all space between yourself and the street with a good slope towards the street- on all other sides slope and add drainage if you can. Inside dig down to the footer and lay a drain tile next to the footer (Not below). Holes facing down run it at a slight pitch to an interior sump basin. I am using DMX airgap for my foundation walls which technically isn't for a stone foundation but I plan to make it work. If you have hollow stone or cinderblock drill weep holes to remove the hydrostatic pressure
i've done several partial versions of trenching the inside walls. enormous amount of labor. i bought a small ranch 8 yrs ago with the entire perimeter done. 130 linear ft and no outside entrance, so imagine the buckets hauled up the stairs. God knows what the cost was.
Hey basement systems I have a 1927 house that has a stone foundation and was wondering what it would cost to seal it all up so it stops getting everything wet
They probably won't tell you in this forum. They want one of their high-pressure sales people to come out and then they'll tell you it's $20,000 (or more).
I've done a few of these as a carpenter for clients. Easiest, best way I've found is first, make sure ground slopes away from foundation , if it cannot because of windows, not a problem but better to do so for at least 4 feet. Next get guuters working and taking water away from foundation. Then just chip out the old lime-based mortar using a small hammer drill you can buy at harbor frieght for less then $30 with coupon or use a regular drill, mortar is not that hard to chip out, use a small masonary bit so it will fit in small joints and replace with type S cement which has 2 additives, one for bonding and the other for flexibility which helps mortar not crack in future. Do not use additional bonding agents. Make sure to dampen the stones before appying the cement , very, very important to get a great bond, just be sure to dampen. I used a pump sprayer, you can soak them but then let stand as stones will absorb the water which is what you want. Once stones absorb the water and are just damp then apply the mortar into joints. Dry stones will suck the water out of cement causing it to shrink and not bond well. I use rubber gloves and just my hands and fingers to get mortar into the joints as to uneven to use any tools unless maybe your very experienced with the tools. then I put a 2cd layer which just filled in any unevenness in the stone face, then i did a 3rd coat covering everything including all the stone faces so no stone could be seen in foundation as stones are porous and could potenially become damp, to eliminate any dampness coat everything. When each step is curing (drying) i also spray just a bit of water on the cement to keep moist as this helps the cement bond better , make sure cement is just hard enough to not fall apart from the water. You may not have to do this as a basement likely is moist enough to to bond well but i did it to try and get best results. once done you can paint with masonary sealer type paint, i did that for clients but not in my own property and have not had a problem without doing the paint. Have not had any issues with leaks since or problems with the foundation to this day . Now, I have seen people just skim coat mortar right over the old mortar and it works but i have seen it not work such has in my property, some areas it worked others i needed to chip off the new mortar and chip out old mortar and that is a pain has the new mortar is tough getting off using a sledge hammer. took me and my friend taking turns, so i would not advise that method.
What you've done is encapsulated the wall with cement except that water will still get in a stone foundation no matter what. That lime mortar you took a power drill to allowed the water to leave the wall. You haven't noticed any leaking yet, but it's only been how many years? Lime mortars have kept these foundations solid for 2-300 years in the northeast . That trapped moisture will deteriorate your historic fieldstone foundation and will lead to foundation failure. If you'd like to understand a better method for old house foundations, visit the national park service historic building preservation website or even do a simple google search
I did alot of research before doing the job even historical website. Been done 20 years ago without any problems to date. Read some about what your saying Nicole but found that not true. Talked to Mason's on the subject they told me my way would not be a problem and so far it has not.
@@mikemasters4382 That's either because you're in a dry part of the country or because it's a slow process that you're not seeing since you've encapsulated the wall. I don't believe that you found info on a historical website that suggests containing pointing a fieldstone with concrete unless you have an extremely hard stone
@@Nicole-pv4eg I did find historical web site that said he believed what you say early on but found using type S cement from the inside was not a problem. I ask Mason and told them what you say and they told me it does matter. And I know the Mason's well, seen their work and I know they know what they are talking about
@@Nicole-pv4eg also I have repointed older chimney the same way, skim coated the outside of chimneys and people will tell you that you shouldn't do that because u need a softer mortar but again Mason's told me that I could do the things many other web sites claim you shouldn't do. To date have not had any issues with any of it. I bought apartment building back in the recession with a stone foundation and brick above grade. 2 layers of brick, the outside brick is harder brick the inside layer is softer and many web sites tell you to use a softer mortar but again Mason's, more then 1 told me that does not matter.
Hi BigWeb, cost is going to depend on size of the foundation, the type of sump pump used, which water channel and which wall membrane we use. There are a lot of variables. We do offer free written estimates, at which time your local dealer can give you an exact price based on exactly what you want to accomplish and what your basement needs.
Great video. I imagine this home improvement project is quite expensive. This is exactly what my 1900 home with stone foundation needs but I'm afraid to ask the cost.
just do it your self a simple vapor barrier will cost you $120. and the drain main is cheaper but almost exactly the same as the one in the video. except wether gaurd will cost you $540 for 60ft ans drain main will cost $255 for 90ft. youll also need a skil saw to score the concrete and diamond blade. then a jack hammer or the old fashion way (which I used for mine) a 10lbs sludge hammer. youll also need to by some misc. stuff like corning a sump pump and bucket. and inspection ports and some concrete. all together should run about $700-900 to do it with drain main. or the same one in the video probably 1200ish. if you pay some one else to do it I got quoted 10k for a 1000sqft basment.
took me a few weekends to do it my self I had no idea what I was doing. but its actually pretty straight foward. first you get your ruler and measure out 6"from the wall in serveal locations. get chalk string and match it up to the points you measured out. the snap and chalk line. then get the skil saw and I used the Black and decker diamond blade. then you cut along the chalk line. it wont go all the way through just a score. then I took a 10 lbs sludge hammer and made a whole. it will break up to right where you scored it with the saw. Then you trench under the concrete and then break it when you have it cleared of debris. this makes it break much easier. you could also just use a jack hammer which is much easier and could finish the whole concrete braking part in about an hour. what I did took around 8 hours by hand. then you just dig out the trench to the slab. plus a piece of the drain main in there the wall drain should be about .25-1" about the ground if you went tol deep just drop in some pearock and bring it to the right hieght. then assemble the drain. (this part litterally takes 15 mins. its the easiest part. once assemble put some pearocks on top and cement over it. if you want to do the vapor layer as well do that part before the cement so you can easily put it behind the wall drain before you cement it inplace. time consuming yes. labor intensive yes. but definately a doable DYI project. I did it knowing nothing about it till I did it.
Larry invented this industry. I wonder his net worth. It has to be million$. Anyway, been at this since 2004 and this happened today. It's a $400,000 house in a classy neighborhood for Tennessee. It's our third day on the job and we showed up at 8:30 and even spoke with the wife. At 3pm, she was so drunk that my employees thought we should call someone. I've been here before. The thing to do is pack up and leave and you didn't see JACK SHIT. She busted two windows, had her shirt completely off and was singing Patsy Cline and turning up a bottle of Mad Dog. Need that check !!
This is a horrible idea. The true way to waterproof is to not let the water enter basement.. Who lets the water "seap" into a stone wall and then drain into a trench below. MUST BE DONE OUTSIDE. Then you preserve the beautiful stone without that UGLY vapor barrier. I"ll take your sale every day sir.
Yup, outside, not inside. Because if you don't fix the outside, the inside can get worse and the person may have foundational issues. I agree, no amount of shrubs is worth losing your house.
@@jakesharp9724 You can DIY this for about 1k if you're handy enough. If you don't have the tools, rent them. If you don't have the knowledge, youtube it.
But if doing from the outside is technically called damp proofing...then what would waterproofing be? I think a water control system is the best option in the end.
My car engine is leaking oil from the valve cover.
Should I put a rag around the outside of the cover to collect the oil and let is drip off onto the ground ? (as in the Basement Systems Inc program)
Should I put sealer around the outside of the cover to keep the oil from leaking?
Or I could do it properly and replace the gasket.
I worked with a contractor and asked him about just sealing and draining the inside, his answer was; we just spent $500 to insulate the walls, the water will come in a pack the insulation, rendering it useless. Every job we did the sealed the outside AND the inside of the walls. Makes sense......
Wouldn't you want to put the water exit further from the house, to keep it from getting back in?
So what happens under the vapor barrier? Water continues to come through the walls and into the drain. Is that an issue? Wouldn’t mold start growing behind the vapor barrier?
yes- especially with this type of vapor barrier- The only better type I can think of would be DMX wrap but obviously the best thing would be to prevent moisture from coming through at all but adding a barrier outsie. I am going to put up DMX Airgap for mine- I think the airflow should be enough to prevent mold
I have this system. Had to be installed 4 different times. The system that catches the water also catches sediments that will keep it clogged and overall unreliable. I'm fed up and pissed that this continue to happen.
I am looking for solutions for my basement and this is exactly what my thoughts were! My basement walls allow a lot of sediment through (even with an epoxy covering it) and they would just end up clogging this.
This system doesn’t work well because it’s placed on the foundation. System must b placed deeper (where the water is) next to the foundation. Also 4” pvc pipe with holes at the bottom, not the grey square garbage he is showing.
You're not supposed to trap moisture on your foundation walls, it will make it age quick, you need to install a dehumidifier so that the humidity lowes to under 60, then your walls will dry up. You must keep the dehumidifier on all the time. Unless you're planning to redo your whole fundación you don't have another option, you can't put anything to stop water from filtering your foundation, no matter what it is, it will push it off sooner or later.
If you have a serious leak you need to dig the outside of the foundation and then apply some kind of rubberized impermeability material, but if it is serious enough it will still find its way in. I bet if you clean your gutters make sure you don't have water from the outside running inside, your problem will not be so deep. That alone would fix the biggest of it all, then the dehumidifier will deal the deal. You could install that drain system if your leak is big, and the sump pump. That will make your system really effective combine all three things.
Outside water control
Dehumidifier
And your drain to sump pump system.
I'm so sorry that you're going through this! I understand the struggle and the frustration. I'm having an issue with a leaking basement, which has caused bowing in my foundation and a horizontal crack. What I'm currently doing is patching any exterior foundational cracks/openings from the exterior and directing the water away from the house, by angling the concrete foundation to slope away from the house to one specific point where all the water settles, and at that location, I'm digging a trench to slope downhill, and using a catch basin at the top of the hill to carry it away through the corrugated pipe, which is also angled downhill. Then, on the interior, I'll be using steel I beams in attempt to retain, and possibly correct the wall, depending on what I can afford materials wise. Then I'll be squeezing in either foundation concrete epoxy or polyurethane caulk into the cracks to seal it. I'm not sure if any of this would help in your situation, but it might be worth thinking about. I will be posting a video on my entire project once it's done. I hope things eventually work out for you. If it does, let us know what worked!
@@2333jc thanks for your post. it's helpful.
Cost??? 5k-8k-50k?
This fix only deals with water coming through the walls. this channel system looks to be installed just below the floor. What about the water on the outside of the wall? Wouldn't it be wiser to dig to the bottom of the footing to capture the water there and thus releasing the pressure on the walls? The reason the water is coming through the walls in the first place looks to be water looking for a place to go. If the water was allowed to flow down the exterior of the wall down to this channel then into the sump pump makes more sense to me. how is this a replacement for French drains?
That should have been time at the time when the house was built.
I have a fieldstone basement wall. It only gets wet when it's raining. But I can't fix this from the outside because my house is 2 feet from the street! What are my options here?!
Ian it is time to move.
I have the same issue- my recommendation is to caulk all cracks outside pave all space between yourself and the street with a good slope towards the street- on all other sides slope and add drainage if you can. Inside dig down to the footer and lay a drain tile next to the footer (Not below). Holes facing down run it at a slight pitch to an interior sump basin. I am using DMX airgap for my foundation walls which technically isn't for a stone foundation but I plan to make it work. If you have hollow stone or cinderblock drill weep holes to remove the hydrostatic pressure
How much would something like this cost for 1200sq feet
i've done several partial versions of trenching the inside walls. enormous amount of labor. i bought a small ranch 8 yrs ago with the entire perimeter done. 130 linear ft and no outside entrance, so imagine the buckets hauled up the stairs. God knows what the cost was.
Hey basement systems I have a 1927 house that has a stone foundation and was wondering what it would cost to seal it all up so it stops getting everything wet
They probably won't tell you in this forum. They want one of their high-pressure sales people to come out and then they'll tell you it's $20,000 (or more).
How long has this method been around ?.... looks like a breeding ground for mold.
I agree, I dont see any answer to your question. It is concerning that your question was totally ignored.
@@gregcarpenter8472… everything is inorganic.. mold only grows on what was once alive. Mold doesn’t grow on inorganic materials.
I've done a few of these as a carpenter for clients. Easiest, best way I've found is first, make sure ground slopes away from foundation , if it cannot because of windows, not a problem but better to do so for at least 4 feet. Next get guuters working and taking water away from foundation. Then just chip out the old lime-based mortar using a small hammer drill you can buy at harbor frieght for less then $30 with coupon or use a regular drill, mortar is not that hard to chip out, use a small masonary bit so it will fit in small joints and replace with type S cement which has 2 additives, one for bonding and the other for flexibility which helps mortar not crack in future. Do not use additional bonding agents. Make sure to dampen the stones before appying the cement , very, very important to get a great bond, just be sure to dampen. I used a pump sprayer, you can soak them but then let stand as stones will absorb the water which is what you want. Once stones absorb the water and are just damp then apply the mortar into joints. Dry stones will suck the water out of cement causing it to shrink and not bond well. I use rubber gloves and just my hands and fingers to get mortar into the joints as to uneven to use any tools unless maybe your very experienced with the tools. then I put a 2cd layer which just filled in any unevenness in the stone face, then i did a 3rd coat covering everything including all the stone faces so no stone could be seen in foundation as stones are porous and could potenially become damp, to eliminate any dampness coat everything. When each step is curing (drying) i also spray just a bit of water on the cement to keep moist as this helps the cement bond better , make sure cement is just hard enough to not fall apart from the water. You may not have to do this as a basement likely is moist enough to to bond well but i did it to try and get best results. once done you can paint with masonary sealer type paint, i did that for clients but not in my own property and have not had a problem without doing the paint. Have not had any issues with leaks since or problems with the foundation to this day . Now, I have seen people just skim coat mortar right over the old mortar and it works but i have seen it not work such has in my property, some areas it worked others i needed to chip off the new mortar and chip out old mortar and that is a pain has the new mortar is tough getting off using a sledge hammer. took me and my friend taking turns, so i would not advise that method.
What you've done is encapsulated the wall with cement except that water will still get in a stone foundation no matter what. That lime mortar you took a power drill to allowed the water to leave the wall. You haven't noticed any leaking yet, but it's only been how many years? Lime mortars have kept these foundations solid for 2-300 years in the northeast . That trapped moisture will deteriorate your historic fieldstone foundation and will lead to foundation failure. If you'd like to understand a better method for old house foundations, visit the national park service historic building preservation website or even do a simple google search
I did alot of research before doing the job even historical website. Been done 20 years ago without any problems to date. Read some about what your saying Nicole but found that not true. Talked to Mason's on the subject they told me my way would not be a problem and so far it has not.
@@mikemasters4382 That's either because you're in a dry part of the country or because it's a slow process that you're not seeing since you've encapsulated the wall. I don't believe that you found info on a historical website that suggests containing pointing a fieldstone with concrete unless you have an extremely hard stone
@@Nicole-pv4eg I did find historical web site that said he believed what you say early on but found using type S cement from the inside was not a problem.
I ask Mason and told them what you say and they told me it does matter.
And I know the Mason's well, seen their work and I know they know what they are talking about
@@Nicole-pv4eg also I have repointed older chimney the same way, skim coated the outside of chimneys and people will tell you that you shouldn't do that because u need a softer mortar but again Mason's told me that I could do the things many other web sites claim you shouldn't do.
To date have not had any issues with any of it.
I bought apartment building back in the recession with a stone foundation and brick above grade. 2 layers of brick, the outside brick is harder brick the inside layer is softer and many web sites tell you to use a softer mortar but again Mason's, more then 1 told me that does not matter.
Nature stone needs to breathe or it will self destruct. Peter Ward has several videos on stonework being destroyed.
Water coming in from outside. I would think that’s where you would want to start.
I like the sump pit contraption though
How much would this cost?
Hi BigWeb, cost is going to depend on size of the foundation, the type of sump pump used, which water channel and which wall membrane we use. There are a lot of variables. We do offer free written estimates, at which time your local dealer can give you an exact price based on exactly what you want to accomplish and what your basement needs.
In order to do this right we would have to........
Next
so it's okay that it leaks?
no it's not. That's why these guys are crooks. Gotta stop water from the outside. period.
Wow complicated.
This is one of the most informative and well-produced home videos I've ever seen
But he's describing a bandaid to the problem. It's not a permanent solution.
Great video. I imagine this home improvement project is quite expensive. This is exactly what my 1900 home with stone foundation needs but I'm afraid to ask the cost.
Jason Ricci did u get a quote yet? Im having same issue
just do it your self a simple vapor barrier will cost you $120. and the drain main is cheaper but almost exactly the same as the one in the video. except wether gaurd will cost you $540 for 60ft ans drain main will cost $255 for 90ft. youll also need a skil saw to score the concrete and diamond blade. then a jack hammer or the old fashion way (which I used for mine) a 10lbs sludge hammer. youll also need to by some misc. stuff like corning a sump pump and bucket. and inspection ports and some concrete. all together should run about $700-900 to do it with drain main. or the same one in the video probably 1200ish. if you pay some one else to do it I got quoted 10k for a 1000sqft basment.
took me a few weekends to do it my self I had no idea what I was doing. but its actually pretty straight foward. first you get your ruler and measure out 6"from the wall in serveal locations. get chalk string and match it up to the points you measured out. the snap and chalk line. then get the skil saw and I used the Black and decker diamond blade. then you cut along the chalk line. it wont go all the way through just a score. then I took a 10 lbs sludge hammer and made a whole. it will break up to right where you scored it with the saw. Then you trench under the concrete and then break it when you have it cleared of debris. this makes it break much easier. you could also just use a jack hammer which is much easier and could finish the whole concrete braking part in about an hour. what I did took around 8 hours by hand. then you just dig out the trench to the slab. plus a piece of the drain main in there the wall drain should be about .25-1" about the ground if you went tol deep just drop in some pearock and bring it to the right hieght. then assemble the drain. (this part litterally takes 15 mins. its the easiest part. once assemble put some pearocks on top and cement over it. if you want to do the vapor layer as well do that part before the cement so you can easily put it behind the wall drain before you cement it inplace. time consuming yes. labor intensive yes. but definately a doable DYI project. I did it knowing nothing about it till I did it.
I waterproof basements the exact same way but we don't use vapor barrier because it's too thin, we use delta-ms
Nate Trafford how much would this cost for me to do if house is 800 sqft whats the most affordable price?
Larry invented this industry. I wonder his net worth. It has to be million$. Anyway, been at this since 2004 and this happened today. It's a $400,000 house in a classy neighborhood for Tennessee. It's our third day on the job and we showed up at 8:30 and even spoke with the wife. At 3pm, she was so drunk that my employees thought we should call someone. I've been here before. The thing to do is pack up and leave and you didn't see JACK SHIT. She busted two windows, had her shirt completely off and was singing Patsy Cline and turning up a bottle of Mad Dog.
Need that check !!
Is this not the guy from Dr. Energy Saver?
It is. I believe he writes for fine homebuilding magazine and books as well.
This is a horrible idea. The true way to waterproof is to not let the water enter basement.. Who lets the water "seap" into a stone wall and then drain into a trench below. MUST BE DONE OUTSIDE. Then you preserve the beautiful stone without that UGLY vapor barrier. I"ll take your sale every day sir.
This is only a cheaper way, a few thousand dollars, to fix the problem. Outside is the issue. Yes the shrubs gotta go.
Lol idk about that just had a guy quote me $15,000 this includes a “lifetime of the home dry basement warranty”
Yup, outside, not inside. Because if you don't fix the outside, the inside can get worse and the person may have foundational issues. I agree, no amount of shrubs is worth losing your house.
@@jakesharp9724 You can DIY this for about 1k if you're handy enough. If you don't have the tools, rent them. If you don't have the knowledge, youtube it.
That system sucks. You need to get lower along side of the footer on concert and the same with stone.
I agree with this statement.
I don't agree with this method entirely
And I’m thinking the jazzy music needed to be added in because the excellent content (which it was) couldn’t stand on its own merits?
Has to be a better way
this is really water collection, it is not waterproofing,
But if doing from the outside is technically called damp proofing...then what would waterproofing be? I think a water control system is the best option in the end.
Garbage, keep the water out 1st. Foundation or shrub, duh!!!
This system sucks, why this video still up?? Tons of problems other ppl already fixing them
Looks like a seriously complicated and expensive band-aid.
The best way is to stop the water from coming in the first place, stop the water from infiltrating in the concrete
It's a stone foundation.
I hope they have a generator 🥴
Nope.
Crooks
washing out the dirt under the foundation...good job...no footer remember? should have made one..every 4 ft... then dig afterwards.. 10k for this?