TEVO tarantula - FAQ answered
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- Hi guys,
This is my first FAQ video.
I've compiled some of the most frequently asked questions on the forum.
If you like the video, please give it a like :)
Extra links:
ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW BEFORE YOUR FIRST POWER ON
• 3D PRINTER - ALL YOU N...
HOW TO INSTALL COMUNITY FIRMWARE
• TEVO Tarantula 3D prin...
HOW TO adjust the current of your stepper motors
• TEVO Tarantula - HOW T...
HOW TO improve your printer - Part 1 (Washers)
• TEVO Tarantula i3 3D p...
unbrick solution:
3dprinterchat....
How to have a good electrical setup
• TEVO Tarantula i3 3D p...
How to fix wobbling parts
• TEVO tarantula 3D prin...
ESTEPS How to calibrate step-by-step
• 3D Printers - STEPS & ...
How to remove the PTFE tube
• 3D printing - How to r...
HOW TO improve your printer - Part 8 (Carbon Bed Support)
• TEVO Tarantula i3 3D p...
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This was the most useful video I have seen ever. You did a fantastic job. Your index at the beginning is pure genius. Everything is clear and to the point. You should definitely keep them coming.
Hi cdeerinck,
thank you so much for the kind comment. will continue to post more tarantula videos in the future.
Thanks Ruiraptor! All your videos are super helpful, I'm hopefully getting mine soon.
I just assembled mine, and had the Y axis running to the front XD, Just realized and found this video today. Thanks, I fixed the PTFE with this video as well.
This video easily answers half the questions, if not more of the questions on the facebook group.
Why people buy things without/before doing research on the item I'll never know.
Great video Ruiraptor!!
Thank you for all your videos on the tarantula, got mine and am reviewing all your videos before I start, great resource and help for others to succeed! Hat is off Sir!
Thank you so much for your kind comment.
If you have any questions let me know.
I once worked with a Rui C. who worked for Delphi in Seixal. Portugal is a wonderful country with many wonderful people (from my experience)!
I'm also Rui C. but i'm located in the north of the country :)
I also suffer the "min temp error" from the bed.
Looks like the problem is that the thermistor don't make good contact with the bed and get wrong temperatures. I fixed it putting a little bit of thermal grease in the thermistor to fill the possible gaps. Works like a charm!
seeing as I just ordered one of these, this was a good video showing the easy fixes to some of the stuff I might have to deal with.
That power supply and power delivery in general is going to have me nervous. I'm used to ATX PSUs and their nice plug in connectors.
Hi there. Great job, it is amazing what you doing on this channel. I'm sure it will contribute a lot for the community. Thanks a lot.
can you make a video on how to properly install plastic cooling fans on the tevo tarantula, please? I have seen some people connect it straight to the 12v supply and I have seen some people connect it to the part fan slot on the motherboard and then changing the software for the motherboard. Which is better and if it is the motherboard way, how do we change the software?
still a real bible for the TEVO TARANTULA Thanks Rui
Your video's are absolutely amazing ! Super job !!!
Thank you Walter :)
yes I did , I allso check fuses on the board all good.
on the board there are some check Points small silver dot labeled (GND, XS1,) there is no voltage on XS1 dot after powering board.
on oder hand when conected by usb board power up including screen.
Thank You
If that's the case i would recommend you to flash the firmware and see if it helps. If not, then you need to open a ticket with tevo.
Hi Have you ever tried printing with ABS?
Hi! What configuration do you use with the tevo tarantula to print? In the speed to 100% -70% and what temperature for the pla? Thank you so much
Hi Sousa99, First of all, the temperature for PLA is not always the same as it depends on the filament brand and sometimes colors too. It's important that you print a calibration tower to check what is the temperature that will work better for the filament you have. Regarding the configuration, i can send you my cura profile if you like. Just send me your email and i will send it to you.
Ok, thank you very much
Hey, I have a problem we're I have 4 rows of white squares instead of 2 like you had in your video I am very confused, as I have tried what you said by switching the cables around but that hasn't helped, it started after I reflashed my printer with the community marlin off the tevo Tarantula prusa i3 Facebook page and arduino 1.6.8
Hi David,
If your display was working before flashing the firmware then your display might be ok.
Try to flash a different firmware like RC8. Before flashing make sure that you have the correct display in "configuration.h".
Hi ruiraptor,
I saw a lot of video on internet but i dind't find once which talk about velocity, acceleration and jerk.
I think they are very important values for who starts to print.
So i'm asking if you have ever thought to make a video that talk about this values and how someone can set up in order to have a good setting for our printers.
Thanks for listening.
Hi Felice,
Thank you so much for your feedback. That is a good idea. I will try to make a video talking about that.
With your knowledge you will release an excellent video talking about that. I think very highly of you , I will wait anxiously. Thanks and good luck with your work.
On my printer the X-axis offset is set 100mm, Y-axis Offset is 100mm and the Z-axis offset is 2mm. How can I change these?
Hi, you need to edit the values on the firmware or following this:
ua-cam.com/video/NiyU1cTTYlM/v-deo.html
My LCD doesn't display anything and makes short beeping noises any help?
Is your board a new board? Maybe it does not have the firmware installed?
@@ruiraptor I fixed it by rotating the cables but now it doesn't recognise my SD card
Did you rotate both connectors?
Yes I rotated the connectors and fixed it but it won't show the SD card in the menu but it says card inserted on the main screen
Btw I scrapped the SD card that came with the printer as my PC wouldn't recognise it properly so I'm usin a 16gb micro SD card in an adapter
Usually the 3D printer give many problems??
Hi. I just got my printer assembled and I'm getting "heating failed". The bed AND the hot end do not heat when connected to the board. However they heat normally when connected directly to the power supply. What could the problem be?
Anwar Selo check if the wirering of the heatbed is good on the pcb, connectors are horrible so it might not be connected good.
Thanks. I tried and it's the same. The voltage is low at 2.4 on all heating related contacts. The fan is at 5.5. My power supply is at 11.9. Any ideas?
at 5:37 you reference changing the firmware to use the spare E1, if your Vref is bad. How do you do this??? I have been stuck for quite a while now because my Vref on E0 is 0.08 instead of 0.8! at this point I want to switch E0 with E1 in the firmware, but have no idea how...please help!
Hi NIP1337,
If you have only 0.08V, then probably your potentiometer is not correctly soldered on the PCB. Please check if the 3 pins are correctly soldered. If you still need to change from E0 to E1, you need to edit the firmware so that it can use the other port...or select in your slicer 2 extruders and use the second one as the main. For more information on how to edit the firmware, please log on the official tevo FB group and post your question there. It will be easier there.
Thank you for the timely response! As far as I can tell, it is correctly soldered and I can adjust the voltage, but it is in the range of 0-0.09v, so i'm thinking something got fried. Changing in the slicer would certainly be easier, I use Cura - i'm not seeing this setting change though. I just posted on the FB group too, waiting on responses now,
I'm looking to buy my first 3D printer and thinking of the Tarantula. Is it common for it to have all these problems? Thanks.
Hi John,
Not at all.
This FAQ is for all the people that are building their first printer and don't follow some steps.
Sometimes, like the display for example, needs to have the contrast potentiometer adjusted and things like these are easy to do and normal to happen but most people have a hard time to troubleshoot a simple thing like this.
Hy, I have a problem with 3d printing that should take 9 hours but stopped and 5 hours as completed. What could have happened? Maybe the 3D object was not totally sliced in the g-code file ?I used CURA to slice.
Hi Silvio,
Two questions...
1 - are you using the same SD card that came with the printer? If yes then trash it and get a new one from a trusted seller.
2- Are you sure that you waited long enough for the slicer to slice and copy the file? Slicers like Slic3r take too long to slice and copy the file.
1- Yes is the same as came with the Tevo Tarantula. I would buy another. 2- I don`t know if the slicer finished to copy to g-code file. I will try to open the g-code file in Cura.
Hi there, i have the problem with the lcd and the squares, but this error still and the machine and isnt work any more... any one can help me to fix .. THANKS!!
Hi, did you try adjusting the contrast potentiometer located on the back side of the display board?
Hello ruiraptor. I reinstall firmware as marlin 1.1 version. but after install firmware, LCD shows only squares. I already checked cable. what should I do?
The problem is in the firmware itself.
Check which lcd is enabled in the configuration.h. It might be selected the wrong display.
I found language settings and UI settings but I don't know how to set them.. would you tell me how?
Hello. I got dual head&large bed Tevo Tarantula which was assembled few months ago and still collecting the dust because extruders motors not working. Motors itself are fine because they works when connected to X or Y axes but doesn't work when connected to E0 and E1 ports and the nozzle/bed are preheated 230/55 C. I runned out of options. Few days ago I installed Marlin firmware and tried to play with some settings but have not success. Have you got any ideas what can be the problem or how can I check is there any problems with Board?
Thanks in advance.
Hi,
First thing i would do is i would install a single head firmware and test. If it didn't work then i would start considering that the board is the culprit.
Thank you for reply. Finally I managed to launch one of the extruder motors and printed out my first test cube. Now I will try to find how to enabled second motor and to do some calibration.
Thank you for help.
I have an issue. Im using Marlin FW.
1) Icant lower the Z-axis lower towards the endstop. Its at 0 but is way too high and it cant go negative in "move axis" .
2) what is an offset? Do I need to home manually before every print?
3) my printer will reach bed and extruder temperature when starting to print, but will stop immediately once it reached the temperature and wont print.
Hi Serge,
Try this:
1- Move the z manually by rotating the leadscrew and get the Z closest to the endstop. Then execute the home sequence again.
2- The home offset is a value that the stock firmware has and, for example, the Y is = -41. This means that after homing, the Y is not zero but =-41mm. This offset is used to determine the distance of the nozzle when homed to the heatbed. You do not need to move manually but you need to take this into account when placing the parts in your slicer. If you decide to flash a new firmware, you can edit this value (i have a video explaining how to flash a new firmware...just check my channel).
3- Are you using the SD card that came with the printer? If yes, then scrap it and get a new one. If not, is there any error on the screen?
@@ruiraptor Regarding flashing new firmware for the Tarantula -- can you provide the link for this?
I understand how to flash my tarantula but hit a snag , am running windows 10 pro 64bit and when I plug my usb into laptop only has usb 3 connections , comes up under universal serial bus controllers as unknown usb device(device descriptor request failed).
please help me work out what is going on
Many users have reported problems when connecting with windows 10. Do you have the change to test with windows 7? With a different PC or using a virtual machine?
can some one help me ?
When i start a print after heating up the y and x axis move. But when the hit the end stop the try to still move for 4 5 seconds it makes a lot of nice is this good ?
Hi MLG Commander,
This might mean that your endstop is not working correctly.
The noise you are hearing is the motor that continues to turn even after it hits the end.
Don’t let it happen or you will destroy your belt.
Check the endstop switch as my video explains.
Regards
thanks ruiraptor i will try.
thanks for responding so fast.
Excellent video.
HELP! How i can swap the E0 to E1?? Because the driver of the E0 is burned.
Hi Lucas,
You need to edit the firmware and flash it back.
You have an easier way...In your slicer, add a second extruder to your printer settings. When you slice your model, use the second extruder instead.
Have you dealt with Mintemp error?
Hi Charlie,
i haven't yet. But if you have that issue, then you need to check the thermistor connections. Take a closer look at the wires and solder joints. If you can't see anything wrong, get the spare sensor that is included in the kit and try that one instead.
The limit switches that come with the tevo are absolute junk. ALL four that came with my tevo tarantula broke. Need to re-solder ALL of them.
hey,
I have a problem with the connection between my 3D printer (Tevo Taranrula) to the repetier print setting.
When I click on the connect button show up error window.
( the connection failed with the following error: access to the post 'COM3" is denied.. Make sure your printer is connected, enabled and connection data is set correct. Open printer settings?)
I'm using win 10 on laptop. my printer is connecting via USB cable to port 3.
I install the software and go to the tab ''printer settings'' and fill:
port: com3
Baud Rate: 115200 / 230400 / (250000 like the tevo tarantula manual sey) I have tried all.
Please give me any advice !!!
Hi,
So you have all the drivers correctly installed (check in device manager if there is any device unrecognized)?
In the device manager you see the port number (you say it's com 3) being addressed to the printer?
If everything is correct, it might be because you are using windows 10. I heard many people complaining about it. Do you have the chance to test in a diffferent pc that has windows 7 or xp?
hey,
I tride everithing, now i connect to pc with xp win and it's work great.
theank you!!!
Hi has anyone got any advice with reflashing, I uploaded marlin .h via arduino to solve an issue with my extruder steppers and now I have a blank lcd screen. I have tried many of the help comments and still nothing. I have a tevo tarantula i3 prusia 200x280x200 bed mega2560 processor on a mkl 500 base v 1.4 dual extruder, self levelling printer. Any advice would be much appreciated. Rudy
Hi Rudy,
If your screen is black after the firmware flash (but it was ok before that) then you must have a wrong setting in your new firmware. One thing you can check is the display that is selected. Check if you have the correct one and not the full graphic one.
Hi rulraptor, thank you so much for replying, I will go and check that immediately. Fingers crossed. I nearly trashed the printer in frustration. And by the way in your videos I prefer the text, your a big help for us newbies. Keep up the good work.
Hi rudy,
Please don't trash the printer :)
Let me know if you need more help.
Hi ruiraptor, again thanks for your help. I managed to get the eeprom reflashed WITH THE CORRECT LCD settings. I used repetier configuration tool and uploaded .92.4 version. everything started working, but the extruder engaged at high speed and kept running, without stopping, I had to stop the print. I ran a print from cura and now the extruder does'nt work at all. I have checked that it is working under other power source. This was the reason I was trying to reflash the eeprom in the first place. Any advice?
Hi Rudy,
When you reflashed the firmware, did you checked the esteps of the extruder? Are they correct?
My advice is that you download and flash the community 1d firmware and test. This firmware version is a tested version and it's working. You should start with that.
What is the white "chord" Going to the extruder actually for?
Hi Adam,
Which chord are you refering to? Is the PTFE tube?
Yes, sorry! I should have been more specific, my machine came with 2, one long one to go to the extruder and a smaller one, that I can't seem to figure out where it goes!
That is the tube that will guide the filament from the extruder to the hotend. Check my other videos where i show the assembly and FAQ video with the details of the PTFE tube installation in the hotend.
You make awesomely useful videos! just wish you would speak instead of using text.. keep up the great work!
Thanks Noam for your kind comment :)
Oh boy, I found it for 185.99 USD
www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_628790.html?wid=21&lkid=10781350
See ya
ua-cam.com/video/rnoTM22BTgA/v-deo.html
ruiraptor Please help me after changing voltage on steppers my prints comming bad.
good job!
I folow your steps but my extruder won't move ?
minekeek ,
you need to raise the nozzle temperature up to 180 degrees do that the firmware allows extruder movement
thanks , i don't know why but my extruder work without raising the temperature . I have an other question when i plug my tarantula in my pc , it say usb dont reconized
PS : sorry for my bad english .
minekeek ,
you need to install the FTDI drivers. please check my other video that explains how to update the firmware.
thanks or merci !
Hi friend, thank you for the help. I just tried to install a community edition and after hours of building it has bricked my printer. The display wont show anymore and I do not know which software to update with. I have the latest arduino and a normal bed size. Please help me.
like it
i know this is an old video but i must ask. Did you buy that brass hotend replacement? Its been bugging the hell out of me that i can never find a replacement one in case something goes bad with the stock one. All i can find are Volcano and dualheads
The topic list is cool and very helpful!
I am not using it for first time and my extruder is not turning earlier i thought the nozzle is blocked i changed it still no difference
Thank you you saved my ass , I thought I was gonna be screwed over with the faulty endstop connections
I also didn't know what was making it just keep up n going
how to check components no 12v power on the board , power supply OK .
no visual burns, powers up from usb but doesn't from 12v
is it possible internal tracks burn.
any solution how to fix
Hi,
Try disconnecting all the connections to the board and only keep the 12v from the power supply and check if it turns on
great vid
Max Temp error can also be caused by having the thermistors reversed on the mainboard. I made the mistake of thinking the yellow cable should be plugged into the yellow port, causing the heatbed to register it's temp from the hot end. :)
I'm new in 3d printers world yours videos helps a lot fo people like me. Great work
Thanks
Just beautiful xD
;)
I was hoping to find a solution here, but it doesn't look like your video covers my specific topic. After I powered on my printer for the first time I received no movement from any of my stepper motors-even the extruder motor. Because NONE of them are working, I can't test the cables or the power controllers on the main board, because switching these does nothing to help me. Is there anything you can offer to help me figure this out?
Hi Casey,
I'm assuming you have an MKS GEN L board with removable drivers?
If yes, did you install the drivers correctly?
@@ruiraptor I just found out about the drivers. Sorry for the false alarm.
wish I could give 1000 likes
Thank you for your support. A big thumbs up to you :)
Very easy to follow and clear.... thanks.
Thanks for the great Video!
Dude please help me !! my heated bed + side connector melted like yours now ı cant read any voltage even from the back side there is no voltage or resistence between the ports can you help me ?
Hi Dat,
The melted connector in my video is an example...it did not happen to me.
Anyway, you should restore the connections. Desolder the connector and solder the wires directly and check.
brilliant! I have waited so long to see a youtuber smart enough to place timestamp TOC in video...A+++
Thank you so much for your kind feedback :)
Also can someone link me the ferrules he uses for the motherboard? I can't seem to find the right size ones.
just waiting for my printer to ship. I am planning on picking this up www.amazon.ca/dp/B01N9SNNFU/
has the tool and has ferrules in 10 to 23 AWG range.
Wow, thanks that's great! Wish it was a little cheaper, since I only need 4 ferrules hah. But maybe the rest will come in handy later on.
Here is the link for you.... www.aliexpress.com/item/E0508-Tube-insulating-Insulated-terminals-0-5MM2-Cable-Wire-Connector-Insulating-Crimp-Terminal-100PCS-Pack-Connector/32698213572.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.DSqFnJ
I have this kit. The smallest ones, dont really fit on the fan and thermistor wires, but if you crimp hard enough and enough times, they stay on.
Hello Rui, Hve you find a way to resume a print when there si a power failure? Thanks for your work
Hi,
There are firmware versions that have that option, but i dont know if the most recent tarantula ones are equipped with that option. I dont rely on firmware options...i prefer to use an UPS. They are not that expensive and work like a charm.
my printer does nit have any heating not the e1 or e2 or even the hot bed .. i could i fix that 🤔🤔🤔
Hi 3d project,
Your board outputs are not working? Are the connections correct? Have you tried to flash a new firmware to check if you have a corrupted firmware?
On the board, next to the output connectors you can find red leds. When heating, these leds must light up. Check if they light up.
it was working normally and it just happen i want print something and it didt heat ... all wire are plugged in as it should be .. i will try to upload firmware and will see .. could you tell me where could i find the new firmware file to upload .. i have the big size with 2 e .. thank you .
If that is the case, maybe your internal mosfet is faulty.
Flashing the firmware will not help (you can still try...just check my other video on how to install the firmware). For a better help, go to the tevo tarantula official facebook page and post your issue there. We will help you.
thank you i will .... )
just an amazing thank's your video bring me many answer !!!!
Hi Ramirez,
Thank you for your feedback :)
Oh my gosh, I moved the darned Y stepper motor TWICE and now it is on the right. I need to move it a THIRD time.
Or edit the firmware. ;)
I would love to use this printer if it would ever work. my problem is that when you press print and it heats up. it just sits there
Hi Ryan,
are you using the stock SD card? If yes, get a new one instead. Does the printer reaches bed and nozzle temperatures and they get stable?
ruiraptor when I get the new one do I need to download anything on it?
No, the SDcard is only needed to save the gcodes of the prints. You can also print by connecting the PC with USB. I prefer using the SDcard because using the PC and USB we can loose connection (Windows restarts or stops communicating) and we loose the print.
ruiraptor thank you so much. I've been constructing this for 3 months now on and off and been getting very frustrated
No problem. You can also join the Tevo tarantula facebook group ( facebook.com/groups/TEVO.3dprinter.owners/ ). The community is awesome and ready to help.
Hello. The extruder driver (E0) is on. not working. How to run a taxi to the E1 driver. thanks
Hi Ali,
You need to heat up the nozzle first before you are allowed to move the extruder.
Try raising the temperature of the nozzle up to 180 degrees and test again.
I tried 210 degrees. not working. The motor and the cable are working well. The driver is burnt. It just does not work.
Did you checked the Vref for that driver? Do you have any readings?
If the driver is in fact faulty, you need to download the firmware and change the pinout for the extruder to be used with the spare driver.
Am I going to change this? How to do it. Please describe it.
(Configuration.h)
// For Inverting Stepper Enable Pins (Active Low) use 0, Non Inverting (Active High) use 1
// :{0:'Low',1:'High'}
#define X_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Y_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Z_ENABLE_ON 0
#define E_ENABLE_ON 0 // For all extruders
// Disables axis stepper immediately when it's not being used.
// WARNING: When motors turn off there is a chance of losing position accuracy!
#define DISABLE_X false
#define DISABLE_Y false
#define DISABLE_Z false
// Warn on display about possibly reduced accuracy
//#define DISABLE_REDUCED_ACCURACY_WARNING
// @section extruder
#define DISABLE_E false // For all extruders
#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_EXTRUDER true //disable only inactive extruders and keep active extruder enabled
// @section machine
// Invert the stepper direction. Change (or reverse the motor connector) if an axis goes the wrong way.
#define INVERT_X_DIR false
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR false
// @section extruder
// For direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false.
#define INVERT_E0_DIR true
#define INVERT_E1_DIR false
#define INVERT_E2_DIR false
#define INVERT_E3_DIR false
it is in the associated pins_xxxx.h file.
You should find in the file:
#define E0_STEP_PIN 26
#define E0_DIR_PIN 28
#define E0_ENABLE_PIN 24
#define E0_CS_PIN 42
Change to:
#define E0_STEP_PIN 36
#define E0_DIR_PIN 34
#define E0_ENABLE_PIN 30
#define E0_CS_PIN 44
Recompile and upload and use your extruder just like normal (only connected to E1 on the board)